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VIP darshan ticket at Kashi Vishwanath Temple, Varanasi

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The Kashi Vishwanath Temple, more than just a place of worship, is the spiritual heart of Varanasi and holds profound significance in Hindu traditions. As one of the twelve revered Jyotirlingas, it symbolizes Lord Shiva as a divine pillar of light. For Hindus worldwide, visiting this temple at least once in their lifetime is a cherished aspiration. Unfortunately, the temple has a tragic history, having been demolished four times by Muslim invaders in the past.

The current temple was constructed in 1780 by the Maratha queen Maharani Ahilyabai Holkar of Indore. In 2020, the Indian government expanded the temple’s area and facilities for visitors by building a new corridor. They also implemented a “Sugam Darshan” ticketing system to streamline the experience. For a fee of ₹400 (Indians) or ₹600 (foreigners), visitors can purchase a ticket that includes darshan, the services of a priest, a small packet of sweets, and (for Indians) a Rudraksha mala or (for foreigners) a scarf. This ticket allows visitors to bypass the general queue

The priest accompanying the visitor assists in obtaining darshan. Tickets for Sugam Darshan can be purchased at the Vishwanath Temple office across the street. While the process is straightforward for Indian visitors, it can be quite complex for foreigners, especially large groups. The temple staff may require individual passport checks and data entry, which can be time-consuming. As a frequent visitor with guests, I often purchase Sugam Darshan tickets to avoid the long queues.

The regular queue can take at least an hour, and during festivals, it can be significantly longer. For some festivals, people begin waiting in line the night before. While Sugam Darshan also has a queue, it’s typically shorter than the regular one. With a Sugam Darshan ticket, darshan can usually be obtained within 20 to 30 minutes. Initially, I used to bring a priest, but I soon realized it was unnecessary. The priest would simply accompany us to the temple and direct us to the Sugam Darshan queue.

During the queue, the priest would often wait nearby, reappearing after our darshan. He would then tie a Kalawa on our wrists, recite mantras, and request payment. The priest’s fee is included in the Sugam Darshan ticket, and the temple office explicitly states that any priest soliciting additional funds should be reported. The priests I encountered claimed to receive only ₹30 per assignment, which is a meager sum. While I occasionally offered them additional cash, they were never satisfied with the amount.

The priests often demanded additional payment, pressuring my guests to give them more money. Their persistent dissatisfaction prompted me to decline their services altogether. They would also guide visitors to the Gyan Wapi well and the large Nandi statue, urging them to make donations. If the donation was deemed insufficient, other priests would join in, subjecting the visitor to emotional manipulation and exorbitant demands. I learned that donations are typically divided between the priest who accompanied the visitor from the office and the one stationed at the Gyan Wapi well.

My tradition emphasizes that faith is a deeply personal matter, and no one has the right to interfere. Hindu philosophy posits that seeking divine guidance through others is akin to trying to see through someone else’s eyes or walk with someone else’s feet—impossible endeavors. Personally, I’ve never been inclined to use priest services, so I stopped engaging them. When purchasing the Sugam Darshan ticket, I informed the office that I didn’t require a priest, and this arrangement worked.

My experience became more spiritual after forgoing priest services. Things were going smoothly until I encountered another form of corruption. Before reaching the main temple, visitors must pass through two or three security checkpoints. At the final checkpoint, priests often wait to intercept visitors. Once visitors have passed through security, these priests approach them to check their tickets. Then, they accompany visitors to the main temple, where the familiar pattern of extortion begins.

My experience became more spiritual after forgoing priest services. Things were going smoothly until I encountered another form of corruption. Before reaching the main temple, visitors must pass through two or three security checkpoints. At the final checkpoint, priests often wait to intercept visitors. Once visitors have passed through security, these priests approach them to check their tickets. Then, they accompany visitors to the main temple, where the familiar pattern of extortion begins.

Although I didn’t bring a priest from the office, I was still stopped by one near the security checkpoint inside the temple. He checked my ticket and insisted on accompanying me. I told him I was happy to go inside without a priest, but he persisted, urging me to take him with my group. I declined, and then I heard other priests telling him to talk directly with my guests. They threatened to ‘manage me’ if my guests agreed to their services. Fortunately, my guests also refused their offer. The priest was asking for a fee of Rs. 100, which was clearly a marketing ploy. We all know what they do inside.

Fortunately, I was able to visit the temple without being accompanied by any priest. However, I’ll be more cautious next time. I’ll inform my guests beforehand about the possibility of priests approaching them, even inside the temple. If there are no accompanying priests, a visit to Kashi Vishwanath is a beautiful spiritual experience. But if any priests do approach, they can ruin the whole experience. Their primary interest seems to be visitors’ money.

If you’re planning to visit Kashi Vishwanath Temple, here are a few tips:

1: For a quick Darshan, walk directly from Godowlia crossing to the temple. Traffic is prohibited between Godowlia and Kashi Vishwanath, but you can easily find wheelchair assistance for Rs. 500. Wheelchair helpers will take you to the temple, wait while you perform the rituals, and then bring you back to Godowlia crossing.

2: Be wary of people wearing ID cards who claim to be authorized by the temple to help visitors. These individuals are often frauds. Avoid talking to them. If you need directions, ask a police officer or local shopkeeper, but never agree to go with them.”

3: The temple office is located just 100 meters before Kashi Vishwanath Temple on the main street. Here, you can purchase Sugam Darshan tickets and deposit your belongings in the free lockers provided by the temple board. The tickets can also be booked online through temple’s website. Please note that you cannot carry any electronics (mobile phones, chargers, batteries, e-watches, etc.), sharp objects, pens, cosmetics, hand sanitizer, tobacco products, or other prohibited items inside the temple. Deposit all of these items in the lockers and keep the key with you.

4: You can enter the temple corridor with your shoes on. Shoe racks are available inside the corridor.

5. As mentioned before, decline the services of priests politely. Prasadam (a box of sweets) and Rudraksha Mala are available at the temple office. Be sure to collect these items before entering the temple. This way, you can offer them to Bhagwan during the Darshan.

6: Avoid buying flowers from the vendors outside the temple. They may not ask for payment upfront, but they will demand exorbitant amounts after your Darshan. If you purchase flowers from these vendors, they will send someone with you inside the temple who will try to extort money from you, similar to the priests. Consider bringing flowers with you from outside or purchasing them from the shops along the street between Godowlia crossing and the temple. There’s even a wholesale flower market about 300 meters from the temple where you can buy flowers in advance.

“7. As I mentioned previously, avoid interacting with any priests inside the temple.

8: There is a separate queue for Sugam Darshan. Ask a police officer to direct you to the correct line.

9: You cannot enter the Garbhgrih. The Garbhgrih is cordoned off, and everyone performs Darshan from the other side of the barrier.

“10. If you have a Sugam Darshan ticket with a Rudraksha, you can give it to the priest at the Garbhgrih and ask him to touch it to the Lingam. You cannot touch the Lingam yourself, but your Rudraksha Mala can, and you can wear it forever.

11: Don’t forget to visit the newly opened Sringar Gauri (Ardhangini of Mahadev) shrine located under the basement of the Gyanwapi mosque. The shrine was always accessible to devotees but was closed for political reasons in the 1990s. It was reopened last year. Be sure to thank Yogi Adityanath for his efforts in reopening the shrine

12. After completing your Darshan of Kashi Vishwanath, explore the various other temples within the corridor. One temple I highly recommend is Annpoorna Mata. The statue of Annpoorna Mata was stolen from the temple nearly a century ago. It was displayed in a museum in Canada for many years before being returned to India in 2021. Don’t confuse this temple with the larger Annpoorna Mata temple located outside the corridor.

13: I also encourage you to explore the entire corridor. Near Ganga Dwar, you’ll find Pashupatinath Temple, locally known as Nepali Mandir. Be sure to visit this temple as well.

14: While many people desire to visit the temple during the various aartis, I recommend against it. Despite the large size of the Vishwanath temple corridor, the Grabhgriha (inner sanctum) is quite small. A bench is placed directly at the entrance of the Grabhgriha, which is only about 3 feet wide and 5 feet tall. Only those who manage to secure a seat on this bench can see the Aarti or the events happening inside the Grabhgriha. The rest of the people are relegated to the back, with limited visibility. Even those standing behind the bench may struggle to see clearly. For a more enjoyable experience, I suggest opting for a regular Sugam Darshan.

15 : Lastly, be cautious about engaging with anyone claiming to be a guide. If you desire a guide, ensure they are authorized by the government. Many individuals may present themselves as temple-authorized guides, but this is false. The temple does not authorize any guides. You’ll often encounter people wearing temple-issued ID cards, which they claim proves their authorization, but this is not true. These cards are typically daily visitor passes issued to locals for a fee. If you’re unsure, ask the guide to show their official government-issued guide license. Avoid engaging with fake guides, as it can significantly impact your experience. You can read about a group of devotees who had a negative experience with a fake guide in this article:

A man posing as tourist guide fled from Kashi Vishwanath Dham with 17 mobiles and other belongings of a group pilgrims from Tamilnadu. 

I’m not trying to alarm anyone with these negative comments. Unfortunately, everything I’ve written is true and based on my personal experiences. My only goal is to ensure you have a peaceful and fulfilling spiritual experience at Kashi Vishwanath. By sharing these tips and insights, I hope to help you avoid any potential pitfalls. I hope that the authorities will take steps to address the issues related to certain priests. Hari Om, Peace!

Here is a map to help you reach Kashi Vishwanath Temple Help Desk office from Godowlia Crossing:

Do we really need Bullet trains?

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Indian Railways is the backbone of India’s transportation system, carrying over 24 million passengers daily. This figure excludes metro systems and other local trains in various Indian cities. India boasts the world’s fourth-largest railway network, operating more than 22,593 trains. It is recognized as one of the largest railway systems globally under single management. Indian Railways offers a diverse range of trains, including superfast express, express, passenger, Rajdhani, Shatabdi, and the semi-high-speed Vande Bharat. Luxury tourist options like the Maharaja Express and heritage Himalayan trains are also available.

Trains offer various seating and sleeping accommodations. Most trains include unreserved general class, non-AC sleeper, 3AC, 2AC, and 1AC classes. While Shatabdi and Vande Bharat currently lack sleeper options, the railway plans to introduce sleeper class Vande Bharat trains soon. It’s also rumored that Vande Bharat trains will replace older Shatabdi trains. Rajdhani Express connects state capitals and exclusively features air-conditioned coaches in 3AC, 2AC, and 1AC classes. Renowned for speed and luxury, Rajdhani Express is a popular choice for inter-state travel.

Shatabdi Express trains offer only chair car seating and connect major cities within shorter distances. Considered fast and luxurious, Shatabdi trains are popular among travelers. The majority of passengers, however, opt for superfast, express, and passenger trains. Indian railways underwent a significant transformation after 2014 under Prime Minister Modi’s leadership. Substantial investments were made to improve railway infrastructure. The implementation of the Clean India campaign led to enhanced sanitation at stations and within trains.

The most noticeable change since Modi came to power is the significantly improved cleanliness of railway stations. There are more comfortable amenities like better waiting areas, cafeterias, drinking water facilities, and overall sanitation. Trains also appear cleaner due to increased and frequent cleaning. A major upgrade is the introduction of vacuum pressure flush toilets in trains. Before 2014, train toilets directly emptied onto the tracks. These improvements have been widely appreciated by the public.

One other major change we’ve noticed is that the railways are shortening the number of non-AC sleeper class coaches. They are replacing these non-AC coaches with AC ones, primarily 3 AC coaches. They have introduced another AC class coach called 3 AC Economy. The 3 AC Economy coach has a capacity of 83 beds, while 3 AC coaches have a capacity of 72 beds. 2 AC coaches have a capacity of 54 beds, and 1 AC coaches offer coupes that can accommodate either 2 or 4 passengers. Non-AC sleeper coaches also have a capacity of 72 beds, and unreserved general class is open to all passengers.

There is usually a waitlist for all train classes. Tickets open four months in advance, and popular trains often sell out immediately. Availability typically dwindles to nothing about a month before departure, unless you try for a Tatkal (urgent) ticket, which opens a day in advance. Tatkal tickets are notoriously difficult to obtain, especially for AC classes, which open at 10 AM. The booking servers immediately become overloaded, and even a minute’s delay can mean losing out. After countless failed attempts, I’ve given up trying.

There are ticket agents who manage to buy tickets from the ticket counter. I’ve heard they bribe ticket counter officers to obtain them. Another major problem with Indian trains is delays. Such delays are so common that 15-20 minutes is hardly considered a delay. People often expect delays of an hour or more and plan their schedules accordingly. While trains are delayed for a day only during the dense fog of winter, there’s no doubt that punctuality has improved since 2014. However, there’s still significant room for improvement.

Indian Railways has been working to improve tracks and increase train speeds. I’ve noticed a significant change in train speeds. Before Mr. Modi took office, the average speed of most trains was around 70 kilometers per hour, but now it’s closer to 100-110. Vande Bharat, Shatabdi, and Rajdhani trains even run at 130-140 kilometers per hour. There has been considerable progress in railways over the past decade, but serious issues remain. Many major railway stations are still in poor condition, and the state of non-AC sleeper and general class coaches is so terrible it’s difficult to describe.

Waitlists for tickets are often so long that it’s very difficult to get a confirmed one. India is also building a Bullet train. The first Bullet train will connect Ahmedabad and Mumbai. Construction began in 2017 and was supposed to be operational by 2022 but was delayed due to the Covid pandemic. I’ve heard it might be operational by the end of 2025. I traveled in both non-AC sleeper and general class once last year, and I had such a horrible experience that it made me question the need for Bullet trains. A few months ago, I wanted to go to Delhi but couldn’t get a ticket from Varanasi on the train I wanted. The same train had seats available from Lucknow, so I booked a 2AC sleeper ticket from there.

I thought I’d simply buy a general class ticket from Varanasi to Lucknow and then upgrade to AC 2 there. I purchased an unreserved general class ticket. The train arrived thirty minutes late, and all non-AC sleeper and general class coaches were packed. As I tried to enter the unreserved general class compartment, the train started moving. I managed to board, but it was a huge mistake. The coach was so crowded I couldn’t even see my feet. Every seat was occupied, and people were sitting on the floor, luggage racks, and even outside the toilet.

There was no space at all to even sit on the floor. It was going to be a five-hour journey, and I had no idea how I would survive that long. Somehow, I managed to squeeze near the toilet and sit on the floor with other people. There were about ten of us crammed into one square meter. Since I was right by the toilet, I had to constantly move whenever someone needed to use it. Eventually, I had to go too, but when I opened the door, it was disgusting. Someone had thrown a plastic bottle in the toilet, it was clogged, and there was urine on the floor. It was impossible to use.

I came back to my spot on the floor, filled with regret for choosing general class. I knew conditions were bad, but I hadn’t realized how truly awful it was since my last general class journey. Despite the ordeal, these experiences can be quite eye-opening. I encountered a situation I never imagined. A family boarded at a stop; they looked like nomads without a permanent home. The family—a mother, father, and three children—was aggressive as soon as they entered. They loudly demanded space and pushed their way towards the toilet, ignoring other areas. It seemed like they already knew where they were headed.

They reached the toilet, entered together, and locked themselves in. Clearly, they saw it as their only available space. When others needed to use the toilet, the family refused to open the door. People started pounding on the door, but the family remained unresponsive and comfortable inside. The frustration grew, and people threatened to break down the door. Finally, the family opened it, appearing annoyed at the disturbance. They acted as if the toilet compartment was their private space. It’s unbelievable that passengers can take over a public toilet on a moving train.

Another bizarre encounter involved two fellow floor-sitters. One man had an open mouth ulcer from cancer, covered with a cloth. Given my immunosuppressive medication and heightened infection risk, being near him was terrifying. I couldn’t imagine his own suffering with cancer, let alone the added stress of this overcrowded, unsanitary environment. Such a journey would undoubtedly be incredibly challenging for someone battling cancer. It highlights the harsh realities faced by many due to economic constraints. Poverty often forces people into unimaginable situations.

There was another guy who wanted to go somewhere in Haryana, but the train only went as far as Delhi. He told me he had started the journey with just Rs. 500 and that the ticket checker had charged him that entire amount to issue a new ticket, leaving him with nothing. I suspected the ticket checker had taken a bribe, but the man showed me a legitimate Rs. 500 receipt for the new ticket. He explained that he would switch trains in Delhi, then take another train part of the way, and finally walk the last 40 kilometers.

I was shocked to discover he didn’t have a ticket for the next leg of his journey from Delhi, nor did he have money for a bus ticket to his final destination. His ordeal was heartbreaking. His innocence made me want to help, at least by buying him a bus ticket. As the train approached Lucknow, I grew increasingly eager to escape the general class compartment. I asked him how much a bus ticket would cost and gave him some money to ensure he wouldn’t have to walk the 40 kilometers.

The train arrived at Lucknow station thirty minutes late. I gave him some money, and he looked puzzled but accepted it gratefully. I changed to the AC 2 class, cleaned up in the washroom (AC class washrooms are usually clean), and went to my seat. That journey still haunts me. It’s heartbreaking to see the appalling condition of general class compartments in Indian trains, where ordinary people endure so much suffering. While some help is available on trains, the state of general class is so dire that it seems insufficient.

I recently had another experience traveling in non-AC class a few days ago. Usually, I book round-trip tickets before my journey, but this time I didn’t have a return ticket to Varanasi. I planned to buy a Tatkal ticket (available a day before departure) but couldn’t get one. As usual, the Indian Railways server crashed, and I couldn’t purchase a ticket. I explored other options from different cities and found a train from Gwalior to Varanasi with available seats for the next day. I booked a ticket on the Bundelkhand Express for the next day.

Gwalior is a four-hour train ride from Delhi, so I looked for a train to Gwalior that evening. All reserved seats were booked, so I decided to try unreserved class again since it was only a short journey. I arrived at Hazrat Nizamuddin railway station, bought a general ticket, and went to the platform. It was August 14th, and we had a holiday on the 15th. The 16th was Friday, and Saturday and Sunday are already officially off days. With another festival on Monday, it meant a long holiday, so many people were traveling back home. The platform was full of people waiting for the train. I thought that if the unreserved class was overcrowded, I would get on a reserved class and pay the penalty.

There were two unreserved coaches, and both became overcrowded as soon as the train arrived at the platform. People were even jumping onto the moving train to secure seats. By the time the train stopped, it was already overcrowded, so I couldn’t board. I went to the reserved non-AC class, hoping to find a spot in a corner. However, many others with general class tickets had the same idea, and the reserved coach was also packed.

It was incredibly difficult to even board the train, but somehow I managed. The train was so crowded that even those with confirmed seats were forced to share them. I managed to find a standing space and later used my backpack as a seat. Everyone said most passengers would get off at Mathura station, but the opposite happened: few got off, and more boarded. Eventually, I couldn’t even sit on my backpack and had to stand the entire time.

Not enough space even to stand

The next stop was Agra, and even more people got on. By this point, it was nearly impossible to stay in the compartment, but I had no other choice. People were sitting on the floor everywhere, and even the reserved seats were occupied by those with unreserved tickets. People trying to move were constantly stepping over others’ feet and luggage. Although the non-AC reserved coaches had open windows, it was so overcrowded that I felt suffocated the entire time.

Finally, the train arrived at Gwalior station, about 30 minutes late. These two recent experiences of traveling in non-AC class have been horrible, literally a nightmare. If there’s any other option, I wouldn’t want to travel in either unreserved or non-AC sleeper class again. It’s not just my story; everyone shares the same opinion about non-AC travel. While there have been improvements recently, many problems still need to be addressed, especially the condition of the unreserved class.

On one hand, we have numerous problems with running existing train services efficiently, while on the other, we’re investing in bullet trains. My recent experience has made me question the need for bullet trains at this point. I understand that such projects enhance a country’s image and attract foreign investment, but shouldn’t we prioritize improving existing services first? I believe focusing on making current trains better would be more appreciated by the Indian public and International community in general.

Why not try to end the waitlist in train tickets first? Why not make trains run on time first? Why not make them litter free first? Why not make the condition of general class coaches better first? Why not replace non-AC with AC coaches first? Why not try to improve the track quality first and make the trains faster? Why not arrange good pantry services available at all the trains first? Why make huge investment on Bullet trains when our other trains are in bad shape?

About 15 years ago, I met an English man who was an expert in building bullet trains. He had been involved in bullet train projects in Japan and other countries. He told me that Indian Railways had invited him to collaborate on a project in the 1970s. Forty years later, he returned to India as a tourist and wanted to see the progress of that project. He visited the Vadodara Railway Headquarters and was shocked to find that no progress had been made in the past four decades.

He said it wasn’t wise for India to build bullet trains while regular trains were in such poor condition. I agree to some extent. I want India to have modern rail infrastructure, but existing trains should be perfected first. I understand the government might be trying to shift lower-middle-class passengers from non-AC sleeper to AC coaches, but can everyone afford it? Do they even want to? And even if they do, are tickets available? Of course not!

I understand many people prefer non-AC travel due to financial constraints, and the government should address this. While Indian Railways passenger trains operate at a loss, subsidized by freight services, it’s unacceptable to neglect the conditions of non-AC coaches. There needs to be a balance between financial viability and passenger comfort.

The only solution I can think of is to replace all non-AC sleeper class coaches with 3AC Economy and all unreserved class coaches with a metro train-type coach. Every train should be air-conditioned and equipped with clean toilets. This would require additional funding, which could be recovered by charging passengers equally or slightly more for those traveling in 3AC, 2AC, or 1AC. Railway stations also need improvement, and the waitlist system for tickets should be eliminated.

With the rising middle class, many Indians now travel by airplane, but the majority still can’t afford it. India’s vast population and immense size contribute to its significant challenges. Solving even small problems requires immense effort. It often feels like there’s a lack of will to address these issues despite visible solutions. Indian bureaucracy is plagued by corruption, laziness, and a focus on personal comfort rather than public service.

Indian train journeys can be delightful if you secure a confirmed seat in AC class. I prefer train travel for overnight journeys. I wish the government would prioritize addressing the core issues affecting ordinary citizens. While I support the development of bullet trains, I believe improving existing train services is equally important. We need safer, more comfortable trains, an end to ticket waitlists, and a reduction in accidents and derailments. India has made significant strides in railway infrastructure over the past decade, and I’m optimistic about future improvements. I hope to see a world-class railway system that surpasses global standards.

VIP tickets at Hindu temples

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In recent years, there has been a noticeable trend of more temples offering VIP darshan tickets. While VIP access has existed for some time, it was previously limited to a selected few temples. However, the number of temples offering this service has grown significantly. Having visited temples across India, I’ve observed that temples in North India often exhibit the most concerning levels of corruption. Even in the absence of a formal ticketing system, one can frequently find priests, intermediaries, agents, or even police officers offering expedited darshan in exchange for a fee.

Only two prominent temples in Varanasi, Sankat Mochan and BHU New Vishwanath JI, seem relatively free from the corruption associated with VIP darshan tickets. Unfortunately, visiting any other well-known temple in Varanasi often involves dealing with harassment. For a peaceful experience, Kashi Vishwanath and Kaal Bhairav temples are particularly challenging. While Kashi Vishwanath can be navigated by avoiding priests and other troublemakers, Kaal Bhairav presents a significantly more complex situation.

My recent visits to Nagreshwar, Somnath, and Mahakal Jyotirling temples in Gujarat were marred by the implementation of ticketing systems. Nagreshwar Jyotirling, for example, offers tickets that grant access to the Garbhgrih (sanctum sanctorum). For an additional fee, visitors can also avail themselves of special rituals performed by a priest. While darshan at Nagreshwar Jyotirling is technically free for all, access to the Garbhgrih is restricted to those who purchase a ticket.

Shri Nageshwar Jyotirlinga, Gujrat

Somnath Temple offers tickets for the evening sound and light laser show. Mahakal temple in Ujjain also has a VIP ticket system but a commendable feature of Mahakal Temple is its provision of a separate queue for senior citizens, exempting them from VIP darshan fees. A temple should not be treated as a commercial enterprise. It should be a space for personal reflection and meditation, accessible to all without distinction. The concept of VIP status should be entirely absent from such sacred places.

Paying to visit a temple feels akin to entering an amusement park. A sacred space should be open to all without charge. The introduction of VIP tickets has eroded the spiritual essence of temples. Now, anyone with a few hundred rupees can receive preferential treatment, creating a sense of inequality. India seems unable to fully escape its colonial past, as people continue to be judged based on their wealth, social status, or other factors.

The hierarchical system is deeply ingrained in Indian culture. While the Modi government has made commendable efforts to curb VIP culture by restricting the use of red or blue beacons on vehicles, the mentality of privilege persists. I frequently visit Kashi Vishwanath Temple with guests, and it’s disheartening to witness the preferential treatment afforded to politicians, government officials, judges, and police officers. Their vehicles are often parked directly at the temple’s entrance, a privilege denied to ordinary citizens. This demonstrates a continued bias towards those in positions of authority.

Inside the temple, these individuals also receive preferential treatment, gaining access to areas restricted to the general public. While I understand the need for special arrangements for high-ranking officials like the Prime Minister or President, the same privilege is often extended to politicians and individuals with political connections. While the government introduced VIP darshan tickets to streamline the visiting process, it has inadvertently transformed the temple into a place of privilege. While the time of dignitaries like the Prime Minister or President is undoubtedly valuable, it’s unfair to expect others to wait in long queues while these individuals enjoy special treatment.

I believe a VIP darshan facility is necessary, but it should be exclusive to senior citizens and individuals with special abilities. These groups should be considered VIPs and receive preferential treatment not only at temples but also in offices and public spaces. For the general public, an organized online registration system should be implemented. This system would offer different time slots based on availability, allowing visitors to choose their preferred visiting time.

A similar approach should be adopted for all visitors. By determining the maximum number of visitors per hour and offering different time slots, visitors can choose the most convenient option. This will limit the number of people at any given time, reducing wait times. Those who haven’t registered should be directed to a separate queue. Implementing this system would quickly eliminate long queues and enhance the spiritual experience for visitors, especially if the temple were to offer free entry

I visit Churches, Mosques, Buddhist temples, and Sikh Gurudwaras, but I’ve never encountered a VIP ticket system. While these places of worship may face their own challenges, they haven’t resorted to commercializing their sacred spaces. Unfortunately, the commercialization of temple visits is a prevalent issue in Hindu temples only. The presence of priests and middlemen seeking financial gain, combined with the VIP ticket system, further complicates the experience for devotees.

My Western guests have shared with me that many people have stopped attending churches due to their commercialization and politicization. Priests in these churches often sought to control people’s minds, promising them eternal salvation in exchange for monetary donations. Reports of churches selling certificates for heaven further highlight this disturbing trend. While Hindu temples have historically avoided such practices, there are signs of a concerning shift. Hindu temples are not merely places for rituals or priestly control. They are spaces for self-discovery, introspection, and spiritual growth. They offer opportunities for peace and inner awakening

“I hope that authorities will reconsider the current state of Hindu temples and allow them to serve as true places of self-discovery, introspection, and spiritual growth. If the system remains unchanged, it’s only a matter of time before people lose their devotion to these temples, mirroring the decline of churches. I personally know many individuals who have stopped visiting temples due to overcrowding, VIP tickets, and the exploitative practices of priests and middlemen. I sincerely hope that this trend will reverse, and temples will regain their ancient glory.

Hall of Fame certificate by Tripadvisor

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It’s been five years since I registered Groovy Tours on TripAdvisor, which has been a significant source of business. TripAdvisor awards Certificates of Excellence annually to businesses with excellent traveler ratings and reviews. If a business receives a Certificate of Excellence for five consecutive years, they qualify for the prestigious Hall of Fame.

I’ve been receiving Certificates of Excellence every year since registering Groovy Tours in 2014. This year, I’m thrilled to announce that we’ve earned the Hall of Fame certificate. As the manager, there’s no greater satisfaction than knowing that our services are appreciated by our customers. Thank you to everyone who has given us the opportunity to serve you

Here it is my Hall of Fame certificate

Boat ride in Varanasi

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Ganga Cruise Alaknanda

Tourism is life line of Varanasi and biggest attraction for tourists has always been Kashi Vishwanath Temple and the river Ganga. I can’t even think of any tourist of pilgrim coming to Varanasi without having desire to at least visit Kashi Vishwanath Temple and have at least one boat ride on the river. As per the data of UP Tourism board nearly 7 million tourists had visited Varanasi in the 2017 and the number is growing every year. But because of bad infrastructure Varanasi was not able to impress tourists and pilgrims as much as it should have done. The city was a complete mess until 2014. Luckily Varanasi elected Mr. Narendra Modi as the member of parliament from Varanasi and he is also the current Prime Minister of India now.

Ganga Cruise Alaknanda

During his tenure of past 4 years this city has changed a lot. They worked a lot for cleanliness under Swatch Bharat Mission which had huge positive impact on the city. Mr. Modi always talks about tourism hence he personally took interest in developing tourism facilities in Varanasi. And the most recent change is Ganga Cruise. We had small boats (hand rowing and engine run both) which can handle 4-6 people. Hand rowing boats are fine but the there was a huge increase in number of engine boats which had basically ruined the whole experience. It is very loud and since it is run on a diesel engine it creates huge pollution. People want to have peace when they go on a boat but these boats were very bad.

Ganga Cruise Alaknanda

I have had so many guests who were disappointed with the boats. If fact they were willing to pay extra to have a bigger, safer and comfortable boat but it was not possible at all because we did not have any other option. But finally we have Ganga cruise as well which will leave positive impact on tourism in Varanasi and will definitely attract more tourists. The government has started this new cruise named Alaknanda and I have been told that it is a double-decker cruise ship which will be able to carry more than 100 passengers at any given time. The liner is equipped with 60 luxurious sofas to make your voyage incredibly comfortable and have eco-friendly bio-toilets. It also has an extensively equipped kitchen which will serve both veg and non-veg dishes to please your taste buds.

Ganga Cruise Alaknanda

The lower deck of the cruise is fully air-conditioned and has a small stage which boosts all the needed multimedia functionality. To keep you connected to the modern world it also offers free on-board WiFi. The upper deck is a restaurant and will let you enjoy the view while hogging on your favorite food! The cruise is even equipped with numerous safety features and an on-board lifeguard for emergencies. When Cabinet Minister Mr. Nitin Gadhkari proposed the idea of Motorways, many People mocked him….but look at it….it is indeed happening…..it is the future.

 

 

Amarnath Yatra 2013

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Indian Army welcomes the Yatris

Indian Army welcomes the Yatris

I first tried to visit Amarnath in 2010 but could not as the Police stopped us by entering in the Kashmir valley area by saying that the weather was not good and it was not possible to drive on high mountains. Later we learnt that weather was not the issue but the problem was locals of Anantnag and Kashmir valley area attacking the pilgrims. We were literally shocked and sad to hear that we were not allowed to travel in our country and people of our own country hate us. After that incident I had promised myself that I won’t go to Kashmir ever until the India-Pakistan and Kashmir issue is solved. But the only next year I made a road trip to Leh via Kashmir valley, talked with people and learnt a lot.

Viccky, Chintu, Driver and I (Left to right)

Viccky, Chintu, Driver and I (Left to right)

That experienced changed my view and motivated me to plan another trip so that I could experience and learn more about the people living in that area, their issues and problems. My friends were planning a trip to Amarnath in June this year and I immediately subscribed to it with so much excitement and hope to learn and experience more Kashmir. The Supreme Court of India was very strict this year with number of visitors and their health condition. The Supreme court made it mandatory for every pilgrim to go through necessary health checkup and proper registration because more than 250 people had died during the Yatra in 2012. Because of ecological concerns of the Amarnath glacier, the court also ordered to limit the number of visitors at 7500 per day.

Baltal Basecamp

Baltal Basecamp

We applied for our registration and health checkup in Varanasi. We had to go through the health checkup at first at our government district hospital. The procedure was insane as it involved a lot of bureaucracy and that same crazy behavior of government officers. The health checkup included three tests : A general blood test, orthopedic test and a very mysterious naked body checkup:) I call it mysterious because the doctor did not tell me why he wanted to see me naked. hahaha. Anyways, the blood test was fine but the orthopedist was so busy on phone that he did not perform proper checkup instead just stamped the paper saying that everything was all right.

Rates for tents

Rates for tents

That naked body test was so funny. There were all aged people in the line everyone was either laughing or kind of upset coming out of the doctor’s room. I also had the same experience when I came out of the room. The doctor asked me to stand about ten meters away from him, take of my pants and then cough. When I asked him what was this test for, he just looked at me with anger and asked me to do my business. Most probably he wanted to check hernia, I am not sure. Anyways, after getting the health certificate we had to go to Punjab National Bank because this bank was authorized by Amarnath Shrine Board to make the registration. There was a fee of Rs. 30 to get the registration but it was all right.

We wanted to go on Yatra through Pahalgam checkpoint but it was already full for sever

Helipad at Baltal

Helipad at Baltal

al days so we got permission from Baltal checkpoint. Most of the people prefer to start the yatra from Pahalgam as the route to Amarnath cave is very steep from Baltal side. Anyways, we got our so called health certificate and registration paper without going through proper health checkup. We started our trip from Varanasi by taking a train to Jammu. It was a 28 hours train ride hence we decided to stay over night in Jammu and take a rest. We started our journey again the next morning and our plan was to reach Baltal base camp by the same evening.

Beautiful nature

Beautiful nature

It was kind of surprising to see the number of Police and Army here and there but its quite normal in Jammu and Kashmir. Anyways, another shocking thing was police checking on the way to Baltal, We were stopped several times on the way, even in Srinagar where they wanted to see our registration certificate, check our bags etc. It was still 3 hours for sun to set and we were hardly 2 hours away from base camp and suddenly our vehicle was stopped and asked to park in an Army base camp. Once we entered in the base camp, we saw minimum of 200 other vehicles of such people like us who wanted to go on Amarnath yatra. We asked others about why they were stopping the yatris but nobody knew the answer.

River

River

Even Army people did not want to tell anything. They had arranged free water, tea and snacks but we needed an answer. Finally we asked an Army guy who looked from South India and he said that people from Anantnag area were attacking the vehicles of pilgrims therefore for security reasons the vehicles were stopped. He also mentioned that the traffic will be allowed again once the security is arranged on the street. It was so sad to hear such thing but what to do. We were waiting at that Army camp for two hours and finally heard that now we could start again. The fleet was guarded by Indian Army and they were with us until we crossed the sensitive area.

Pilgrims on the way to the Holy cave

Pilgrims on the way to the Holy cave

But it took a lot of time and we were stopped again around 70 KMs from the base camp and we had to spend a night at another Indian Army camp. There was a huge langar setup by someone from Lucknow. I had heard a lot about langars enroute to the cave but it was the first time when I saw one and I was really impressed. They had almost all of the food I can buy in my city, they were offering free blankets, hot water and several other services and everything was free of cost. Anyways, I did not eat there as the line was also huge. We hired a tent for Rs. 700 and spent the night there. The tent was small but there was nothing better than it. There were only 4-5 restrooms for maybe 5000 people so we did not take a risk and started our journey early in the morning time the next day.

I near to the Holy cave

I near to the Holy cave

We arrived at Baltal around 8 am and were planning to start trekking immediately but could not as our registration was valid for 3rd of July and we were in Baltal on the 1st. I was the only person in my whole ground who had not been to Amarnath  before and everyone was telling me that the date doesn’t matter, what matters is the registration certificate. Hence we were quite sure that we would get to go on the 1st even our registration was valid for the 3rd. But because of strict orders of the Supreme court all of the rules were properly followed, rarely happens in my world:) We tried our best by talking with Police but it seemed impossible for us to start trekking that day. So we started looking for a Langar to stay and luckily found one run by someone from my own city.

Super crowded near the cave

Super crowded near the cave

When they heard that we were from Varanasi they immediately offered us free sleeping arrangement with free food, hot water, clean and private washrooms… what else do you need, it was just awesome. We spent that day just wandering around, looking at different langars, talking with people, testing different food etc. Since our registration was valid for the 3rd and it was the 1st, we did not know what we were going to do the next day. Everything was so restricted that it was not even allowed to go further away from the base camp. We met with an Army guy the same evening who suggested us to reach at the entry gate at 4 am the next day. He said that if we can reach that early then there is a possibility that we will allowed for yatra even a day early.

The black is not clay, its dirty snow

The black is not clay, its dirty snow

We had two seriously fat guys in our group and they were having really hard time in walking. Walking on high altitude mountains was a serious problem for them. Everyone suggested them to take helicopter service which would reduce the journey by 6 KMs. I had also never sat on a helicopter so I also decided to go with them. The next morning all of my friends, excluding my two fat friends and me, left the camp 3.30 am and luckily they were allowed to start the yatra. We arrived at the helicopter station around 7 am bought our tickets but the process so crazy that it took us 7 hours to get our boarding pass. I am not joking, it literally took us 7 hours. The guys working at the ticket counter did not have a computer, they were managing all the data on register.

Local phone booth run by solar panel

Local phone booth run by solar panel

I could easily see that they were not trained at all and did not know what they were doing. The helicopters were standing and waiting for passengers and they could not sort out who to send in which helicopter. It was seriously frustrating and hilarious. Finally we boarded on the helicopter at 1.30 PM. It was a very short journey of 7-8 minutes but good enough to get a sense about this flying machine, I liked it. The helicopter left us at Panchtarni which was 6 Kms passing the cave on the other side (en route to Pahalgam). The walk to the cave was seriously steep and fat friends could not walk hence they got on a pony. There were more ponies than human which was a serious pane. The route was very steep and narrow and then thousands of ponies running continuously was just too much.

Indian army offering warm water to the pilgrims

Indian army offering warm water to the pilgrims

The dust and all the shit of ponies was kind of killing the experience but the nature was absolutely fantastic. Beautiful clean rivers, water falls, mountains, snow, green valleys, lakes…it was amazing experience to hike. I had to walk on snow at several place en route to the cave. Finally I reached at the cave but the line was huge. I had to spend around 3 hours in line and then I finally got inside the cave. Everyone in the line was talking about the holy pigeons. But different people had different stories. Some of them were saying that the real holy pigeon is white, another one was saying that the real one is always with its pair… Anyways, I got to see several, minimum of 10.

Security everywhere

Security everywhere

I was seriously excited about seeing the Shivalingam but at first I could not really understand where the lingam was because there was snow everywhere in the cave. Other people in the line showed me a 4 feet tall piece of snow and referred it as the lingam. They said that other pieces of snow represent Ganesha and Parvati. I paid my respect and came out of the cave. It rained continuously when I was line and since I was not wearing my shoes and had not eaten  anything since that morning, I felt affected by hypothermia. I was dizzy and felt seriously confused. I had never experience such physical condition before but I knew what it was.

Inside a langar

Inside a langar

I immediately tried to find a langar where they were offering hot Kheer. It was just like heaven to have found some food. I felt a lot better after having it. I also found my friends who had left early morning on foot. We decided to leave cave area and try to walk back as much as possible. We had decided to reach Seshnag by the night it did not work. The Indian army had closed the exit point at Panchtarni by 7 PM and it was not possible to go further. We rented a tent and spent night there. The next day we started walking back early in the morning time and reached Seshnag by 12. I know that we could have made it much more faster but I always to see the lake at Seshnag and spend some time there so we walked slowly, enjoyed the nature, talked with people…

Snow everywhere

Snow everywhere

We were only three friends who wanted to stay over night in Seshnag and rest proceeded  to Pahalgam the same day and arrived there by the evening. One of my friends brother in law, Mr. Amarpal Sharma who is a member of State Assembly in UP from Sahibabad, runs his own langar at Seshnag. We stayed at his langar overnight and it was a very big relief. They provided us private tent, comfortable bed and private clean washroom. We relaxed overnight there and the next day proceeded for Pahalgam. I had always wanted to visit Seshnag lake but I noticed that nobody was going down to the lake. Everyone just walked the lake on mountain and literally there was no one other than a few pony owners. We went down to the lake and it was amazing. The lake was crystal clear with blue water.

Beautiful nature

Beautiful nature

But my friend said that he had seen change in the color of the lake because all of the waste created by hundreds of tents at Seshnag is drained into the river. This was very sad to hear. I asked one of the pony owners if they drink water out of the pond and he said they used to but not anymore because of pollution in it. He also seemed very concerned about the pond dying. I don’t know when our governments will become serious about the dying nature, seems like they have learnt nothing by the Ganges. Anyways, we left the lake and started walking towards Pahalgam. We arrived there after three hours and then took a taxi back to Jammu. We were back in Jammu the same night around 3 AM. The yatra finished but it raised several questions to me :

1) Amarnath shrine board and Jammu Kashmir government’s attitude towards the yatra and pilgram.

2) Jammu and Kashmir state police behavior

3) Locals behavior and their feeling about yatris visiting their land

4) Threat to the environment in the name of religion and pilgrimage

5) Social harmony

Pilgrims and Ponnys

Pilgrims and Ponnys

Going back to point number one- Amarnath shrine board and Jammu Kashmir government’s attitude towards the yatra and pilgram. This was a very strange thing I noticed that the Amarnath shrine board and Jammu Kashmir government did not seem helpful at all. All the people run langars and pilgrims were complaining about the Shrine Board and Jammu and kashmir government. The people who run langars were saying that it was very easy for them to run their langar until last year when Indian Army was given responsibility to organize the yatra. But this year its state police and Shrine board organizing the yatra and they are trying to make it as complicated as possible for langars to survive.

Indian flag, just love it

Indian flag, just love it

They said that everyday and several times some officers from either the Shrine board or the government come, try to inspect their services and always say that something is not correct. It was really funny to hear that they had made it prohibited for langars to serve anything cooked in Desi Ghee and sweets like Gulab jamun. Their argument was that Desi ghee is very heavy and people can get heart attack by eating anything which is made of desi ghee. They were just trying somehow to disturb the langar runners. By law they had prohibited carrying any plastic and were literally each and every person’s pocket and bags to see if anyone was carrying anything that had plastic. I was really happy to see such action to protect environment but after a while I realized that this rule was only for pilgrims and not for the locals at all. Locals were openly selling plastic packaged food and other items and nobody was there to stop them.

Sheshnag Base camp, Himalayas & Sheshnag lake

Sheshnag Base camp, Himalayas & Sheshnag lake

Point number 2- Jammu Kashmir Police was so rude and cruel to the pilgrims that I never felt safe around them. They stopped us at several places on the way to the base camp to check our identity, luggage and our pockets in such a way that we were terrorists. The local drivers also informed us to be more careful when being checked by such officers because sometimes they already have some illegal items with themselves which they put in the luggage of passengers while checking their bags. Just looking at them was really horrifying experience. Once our vehicle was stopped on the way to the base camp and we were asked to just wait at a parking place where there were already more than a couple of hundreds of vehicle were waiting.

Indian Army medical camp for pilgrims

Indian Army medical camp for pilgrims

We had no idea why we all these vehicles were stopped so we tried to contact some police officers there but again they were so rude that it seemed like they wanted to kill us. Finally I saw an Army personal and contacted but his behavior was completely different, he was so polite and answered all of our questions and finally we learnt that we were stopped because the locals were attacking the vehicles of the pilgrims hence extra security was needed. Finally all of the vehicles were released in security of Indian army that helped us crossing the area where tension was. I also spoke with several Indian army guys regarding their view on Jammu and Kashmir police behavior and even Army guys said that if Indian army was not present in the valley then forget about locals even the police would kill the pilgrims. It was very very unhappy feeling to see state government behavior.

Sheshnag Lake

Sheshnag Lake

Point number 3- In my view most of the locals do not like pilgrims at all. They literally called us Indian and made fun of us wherever and whenever it was possible. I could easily see hate and anger on their face for me. The locals attacking the pilgrims is not a new situation at all in the valley area and I had read about it so many times but when I went through it personally then I realized how horrible the situation was. I once talked with a guy from Punjab who runs a restaurant during the tourist season and he told me half of the people of valley area support outsiders visiting their land half area completely against it. And even the half who support it are the ones who somehow make money out of tourism. If there was no money for them they won’t support it either.

Sheshnag Lake

Sheshnag Lake

One of the stops during the journey was Sheshnag which is named after a beautiful Himalayan lake Sheshnag Lake. Most of the people just stop here to take rest and then continue walking, nobody really goes close to the lake but I did. The lake was beautiful but again I experienced something which turned all of the joy to a sad experience. I went to visit the lake with my two friends Sonu and Kuvar. When we arrived, there were no other tourists but we saw a few locals (lets say 8 or 10 young boys) who were just hanging out having fun. As soon as they saw us, their behavior changed immediately. They started throwing stones towards us, were using abusive words, a few of them got naked so that we go fight with them. All of those guys were the once who make their living by renting their ponnys to the pilgrims, very sad and scary feeling. And it was not only at Sheshnag, we noticed similar or worse behavior everywhere in the valley area.

A dead ponny in the lake

A dead ponny in the lake

Point number 4- Because of no regulations environment is seriously harmed by the pilgrims. I saw garbage and plastic everywhere. The snow had turned black in the entire route used by the pilgrims. All of the camps discharge their entire waste, including raw sewage, directly to the nearest river or the pond. Sheshnag had minimum of 100-200 camps offering lodging and food to the pilgrims. I am sure that minimum of 4-5000 people were sleeping everyday in Sheshnag and entire waste was being directly discharged into the Sheshnag lake. I also spoke with a few locals of that area and they said until 10-15 years ago when the yatra was not so popular and the number pilgrims was also not much the primary source of their drinking water was the water coming from Sheshnag lake but its impossible for them to use that water anymore because of all the raw sewage and other waste in it which comes directly from the camps of the pilgrims.

It only looks clean, it has sewage in it

It only looks clean, it has sewage in it

And this situation was not only at the Sheshnag area but it was at all of the spots wherever camps are situated for the pilgrims. There was no waste management at all and imagine the waste created by hundred of thousands of people every year who do the yatra. There is no proper waste management anywhere in India and we are used to it but seeing such beautiful and sacred place going in the same condition like any other Indian cities was one of the most disappointing feeling for me. I had a chat regarding this issue with one of the camp owners and he said that their feeling is also the same like us and they are more than willing to provide whatever is required to make the situation better and have contacted the concerned departments and government but there is no help at all. I don’t know how long those glaciers will be able to survive and we need to understand that if those glaciers area not there there then even the Amarnath won’t be able to survive there at all because he is also made of snow.

Indian Army temple

Indian Army temple

Point number 4- It is my personal opinion that the best human feeling is the harmony with the people around us and worse situation is when there is attraction or harmony in people’s relationship. It was not my first visit to the valley area, definitely first time to Amarnath but I had been to Kashmir several times before, and I have realized one thing for sure that the people of Kashmir do not like the people who come from out of valley area. There are several groups with different demands. Some of them want to go with Pakistan, some of them want to have a free nation, some of them don’t like the pilgrims because they are non-Muslims and some of them want to convert everyone to Islam.

Water everywhere

Water everywhere

And this movement is so strong that they have no space for outsiders. They just hate anyone visiting their land. As an outsider, for themselves, I could not enjoy as much as I could have if they were welcoming to us. The biggest reason behind my travel is to talk with the locals and it was impossible to interact with locals in the valley area. In fact I was surrendered but only because they wanted to sell me something or were begging or cigarettes or candies. The poverty in the valley is so extreme that you might encounter with groups of people begging of chewing gum if you are chewing one or they will ask you get food from the pilgrims camps for them. Other than this they have no interest at all which was very sad feeling for me. If they can just maintain social harmony then their entire situation could change in one tourist season.

A waterfall

A waterfall

Kashmir is like a heaven for Indians and everyone wants to go there but just because such experience I had, not many people return back or recommend others to visit. Tourism can bring huge amount of money to the valley which could solve most of the biggest problems they are facing but just because of the bad information spread by the locals militants and other groups they have no respect at all for tourists. It is very unfortunate situation and someday Kashmir has to come over it otherwise they will be in the same condition for coming unlimited years as they are now- poor, violence, illiterate and overall seriously crazy. The great poet Amir Khusro wrote a poetry in Persian to describe the beauty of Kashmir in this way- “Agar firdaus bar ru-ye zamin ast, Hamin ast o hamin ast o hamin ast ” meaning “If there is a paradise on earth,It is this, it is this, it is this.”

Anyways, the nature was beautiful and the experience was once in a life time experience. I hope that someday there will  be peach and prosperity in Kashmir as well and the attitude of people will also be welcoming and they would also be proud of their Indian identity just like any other Indian citizen.

Bharat Mata ki Jai, भारत माता की जय

Bharat Mata ki Jai, भारत माता की जय

 

Ranked # 1 on Tripadvisor

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I got my tourist guide license four years ago and I was really confused about how I was going to work. My elder brother works for an Italian tour company, my cousin is also an Italian speaking tourist guide and I have grown up in a city where tourism is very important part of economy. Everyone was giving me different suggestions but most of them recommended me to visit some travel agencies with my CV and ask for work because this is the traditional way of getting work in tourism industry for tour guides. I was already blogging and I had developed a sense of finding right customers online so I was not really if I needed to contact travel agencies and in any case I was upset with usual travel agency’s practices like forced shopping and considering the guest only as a person whom you don’t think about meeting again in future.

I had already met with so many western people way before I got my license so I already had a sense about what western tourists want. And in any case my work as a translator or research assistant gave me the best practical knowledge possible, which a lot of guides miss, about western culture. So I decided to work in the same way I was already doing by promoting my business online. My friend Lane from Seattle helped a lot by putting up a website for my tour business. In the beginning it was not working at all and I realized that only having a website was not enough and I needed some kind of advertisement. In the beginning I used platforms like google business or craigslist but it was not really working well, I was still not getting enough work.

During the tour guide training program, we were taught that as per a survey organized by some International travel agency if a tourist is happy with the services of the travel agent then he is likely to tell about his experience to around 5 people but if he is upset then he is likely to share his experience with around 13 people which means there is no margin for error in this tourism business. I started working keeping this idea in my mind that I don’t have any rights to do anything which my guest doesn’t feel comfortable with. I was meeting with a lot of people through different online travel forums and just tried to perform my best. During this time so many people wrote about my services on online travel forums like Lonely Planet Thorn Tree and Indiamike.

Indiamike got me a lot of business and I was really happy with it. A few months ago Tripadvisor contacted me and they provided me a space on their website. Most probably some of my guests had asked Tripadvisor to list me on their website. I had heard about Tripadvisor so many times and everyone said that it was very big and so many people use it. I was really excited to be listed on Tripadvisor. Tripadvisor asked me to ask my guests to share their reviews about my services. It took me only four months and now I am ranked 1 on Varanasi page. I don’t know how it will change my business but I have noticed one thing that so many people contact me. It is a very big responsibility for me to carry on the same quality but I try my best.

I am also considering training other people so that we can work together with more than one group a day. In fact I tried it during last tourist season and it worked very well. I know that this coming tourist season will be much more busier than the last one and I need to be more prepared to handle the traffic. And keeping this idea in my mind I have already made contacts with other government approved tourist guides, have given them a sense about my style of work and they all have agreed on working with me. The biggest worry for me about hiring other guides was if they would ask my guests to go shopping with them as they usually do with their guests. I told them that I don’t do it in my business : I ask for more rather than stealing or cheating my guests.

All of the guides whom I met they also believed in me and said that if they get good salary then why they would take their guests for shopping. I have promised them extra money and just by getting this extra money they were all happy to take my guests without shopping. Everything is working very well so far and I am really excited for next tourist season. My tripadvisor page is here.

Hospitality industry in India

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I work in hospitality industry and I have been trying to learn about it ever since I started working. I had already heard about India having so many problems for tourists but never realized how serious the problem was. Every once in a while I heard about something but it was not possible for me to realize how big the problem was and how easily we could solve it and make more money and send our guests back with a positive impression about India. The biggest problem I was hearing all the time was the issue of forced shopping and I was seriously upset with it. For whatever reasons I was never ever interested in it but I was still happy with the money I was given for my services.

Now when I am back after my first trip out of India, my industry seem shockingly in terrible condition and I feel very sad about it. I traveled in Europe for 14 days and to be honest I was traveling ever hour of the day, except when I slept. I was just not at home at all. I went to all almost all kinds of tourist places possible in Europe and I was really surprised how easy everything was and how the government and people were so nice and welcoming for tourists. The only difference was the cost but its not an issue because life was very expensive in Europe and they definitely need to charge more.

And the good thing was that at least you get what you want after paying for it. Its just not possible at all to buy good services in India. I am not saying that its impossible to get good service but its very hard. I have no idea why such things are going on and why not government and the people of my country are serious about it. We need to understand that Tourism in India is relatively undeveloped, but a high growth sector. It contributes 6.23% to the national GDP and 8.78% of the total employment. A World Travel and Tourism Council (WTTC) report says that by 2020, tourism in India could contribute Rs. 8,50,000 crores to the GDP. In other words, every man, woman and child could become richer by Rs.7,000. India has yet to realize its full potential from tourism.

The Travel and Tourism industry holds tremendous potential for India’s economy. It can provide impetus to other industries and create millions of new jobs. But we won’t be able to make this dream come true if we don’t organize our tourism industry. The major problems tourists face in India is the lack of basic infrastructure, behavior of people working in tourism industry (tourists guides, drivers, hotel staff, restaurants etc), unorganized services, people on the street targeting tourists etc. To be honest I don’t really think that we need to make huge changes, we can organize tourism only by making little efforts.

A few things happened with me in recent times which made me write this article. At first my Europe trip which was like an enlightenment for me other than that the first attraction with a foreign tourist after returning back to India. Actually it was going to be my first work after returning back to India. I was going to work with a Dutch family. I was going to take them on the boat ride. This assignment was given to me by a travel agency, the only agency I work with in whole India. Usually I talk with my guests the evening before the working day. I called the hotel several times but no one responded.

In fact they were staying at a very nice hotel in Varanasi and I was just not expecting such behavior at all but it happened. I wanted to talk with the guest just to reconfirm the timing and other details. I went to the hotel and met with the guest. The guest seemed seriously upset when I met with him at first. He told me- Thank you so much for coming otherwise I was not hoping to see anyone. I was really surprised why he told me such thing. I started talking with him and he said that he was traveling with his wife and daughter and he had requested his travel agent to provide them either a triple bed room or two different rooms but today he was provided only one double bed room.

And when he asked the hotel where would he sleep, the hotel said that they could give him a blanket and he needed to sleep on the floor. He was so upset with it and told me that his dog sleeps on the floor and he always sleep in his bed. He called his agent in India and they said that this is Indian way. Finally he decided to booked another room and paid from his pocket. He had already paid for everything but here he had to pay for the mistake he was not responsible for. The guest was so upset that he said he was very well aware the hotel guy and the travel agency guy sleeping in the bed but they did not care at all about him. I was really sorry for him but…

Anyways, I needed to discuss about my work with him next morning so we just sat together and discussed about the next morning. He said that he did not want to go on any boat ride as he was already super exhausted by traveling for 14 hours on a train and then having all the crazy experience at the hotel. He asked me if I could arrange his boat ride for the evening. As a tourist guide working for someone else it was not under my power to change his boat ride. As per the rules of the travel agency I was working with he needed to pay again because he was the one who wanted to cancel the tour. And in any case we would have to pay the boat guy doesn’t matter whether use him or not after making a booking.

He also seemed fine with this and asked me the price but when I told him the price he was again upset. He said that it was a rip off. I could easily see that he was prepared to tell this way before I told him the price because he was seriously upset with everything. He had no idea what I was asking for but he had developed this mentality that I was going to cheat him. I had asked him for Rs. 1200 per person and this is the rate travel agency in Varanasi charge. He had paid almost three times more to his agent for the morning boat he canceled but still Rs. 1200 seemed like a rip off to him.

I could easily see how upset and angry he was and I was the one who was dealing with him alone. I was seriously scared but I knew how to make Dutch people happy:) I have worked with many Dutch people already but the most important thing is that I have worked with a very popular TV channel called VPRO from The Netherlands. All the Dutch people I ever met know about this TV channel and they all way that they like this channel a lot and follow their programs as they are very progressive channel. And when I tell them that I have already done so many assignments and research for VPRO they become very interested in me and seem so comfortable and happy with me around them.

I knew it would make him happy and comfortable if I tell him about my relations with Dutchland so I shot my arrow and it worked. He was kind of shocked at first and later so happy and comfortable. He invited me to have a beer with him. We went on the roof top restaurant of the same hotel and ordered beer. We were just talking and talking about my work with Dutch people and what he could do the next day in Varanasi and already passed more than 20 minutes but no beer. Neither I nor the guest had any idea why the service was so later as beer is a packaged drink, the hotel did not need to produce it.

I asked the waitstaff again about our order and he said, it will come soon. I asked how soon and he said ten minutes. I asked why and he did not answer me. At this moment I thought maybe they went out to buy the beer and we started talking again. After ten minutes I again asked the waitstaff about our order and he just open the refrigerator right next to our table and gave the beer to us. The refrigerator was literally right next to our table, so close that I could easily opened and taken the beer out without leaving my chair. I just did not understand why he made us wait for 30 minutes???

Impossible to imagine but this is what happened. I can’t even imagine why they did not serve our order on time. Were they worried about me? Were they personally upset with the guest? Or do they just don’t care about their guests at all? Didn’t they care about the money we were going to give them by buying their goods? In any case if they did not want to entertain us then they should have just told us about it. Even after doing it no one said sorry or anything. No one explained why they were so late even when we asked them. Why such things happen?

Such kind of thing is just an example which happened recently with me otherwise I encounter something crazy every time I am working and I know it very well that most of the tourists must be facing similar problems, or maybe bigger, when they are in India. I spent fifteen days traveling in Hungary, Austria and Slovakia and I hardly noticed such things two three times but the problems I noticed in Europe was different and was not as extreme as here. It happened only once in Budapest when someone approached me trying to sell an iphone but it was very easy to avoid him. I noticed a problem second and time in Bratislava, Slovakia where a waitstaff at a restaurant did not speak any English and was dealing with customers.

We ordered something else and got something different. Other than this I just can’t think of any problem I noticed during those fifteen days. Now I wonder why can’t we also have similar kind of services here in India? I know that Indian government is crazy and I just don’t have any hope at all but what about services offered by people? Our attitude for tourists? At one hand we are so proud of saying that as per Indian culture the guest is like God (अतिथि देवो भव्) and on the other hand I am very well aware of such incidents where foreign guests were not treated even like a human? And it happened only because they were our foreign guests.

I have a strong feeling that the people not working in tourism industry are very friendly and nice and all the tourists like them a lot but unfortunately a lot of people who are working in tourism industry are really strange. They just don’t have any sense of tourism or hospitality at all. Another unfortunate thing is that the tourists don’t really get to meet many local people and mostly they interact with their agents or other people working in tourism where they develop strange ideas about India and I am not surprised at all. I would also develop the same mentality if such thing happened with me.

I still don’t forget the way my driver in Himanchal Pradesh had cheated me for only Rs. 100. The amount was nothing for me but that experience of being cheated changed my whole idea about him and I started to hate him and was not feeling secured at all. If we just look at any online travel forum about India then the forums are full of negative stories about India. In fact there are warnings. I know that a few people might be offended with my thinking about tourism industry in India but to be honest I experienced the difference and whatever I am writing is a bitter truth.

We really need to realize that there are problems. If we don’t admit that there are problems then we just won’t be able to solve them. Internet is changing the world. Now we can easily learn a lot about the any place in the world without visiting. We can talk with people without meeting them, we can share ideas and if India is getting negative impression online then we are going to be in huge problem. People read about India before coming here. We need to change otherwise one thing is very sure that we are not right track and things are not going work this way for very long.

I know that everyone is not the same and there are so many people who have real passion for tourism and they do really nice work but it is very likely to get a bad experience in India. I hope we change such things soon.

Europian food for Indian tounge and belly

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food at a Turkish restaurant in Budapest

My God, I had serious problem with food in Europe (Hungary, Austria and Slovakia). It was first time in my life when I went out of India and everything was a huge shock for me including food. I had asked my host, Dora and Attila, several times before leaving India about the food for me and they always told me that there won’t be any problem at all. In fact I was planning to carry some Indian spices with me but when I saw that Attila and Dora were so confident about availability of food me in Hungary then I just decided to leave everything on them. I had no idea what I was going to eat in Europe before I left.

Hungarian food

I arrived in Hungary in the evening time around 7. My host took me for a walk and then to a restaurant. I was provided the menu and I looked at it but I just did not know any food at all. I asked my hosts to choose any vegetarian food for me and they told me about a few dishes that there were vegetarian but still I had no idea. So finally I just left everything on them and they ordered something for me. The waitstaff brought the food and it looked very beautifully decorated with fresh leaves. It looked very hygienic and healthy but still I was not getting that feeling of excitement.  The look of the meal was not so attractive to make my mouth water.

vegan food

I think it happened only because of the color and smell of the food. The color of Indian food is usually either red, brown or something bright. You see the gravy, spices, chillies…The only food I think of with its natural color is the plain rice. Whereas my first European food looked very very plain with its natural color. It felt like I was going to eat something raw, uncooked or half cooked. The smell was also so different that it just didn’t feel like food at all. Anyways, I tested it and it had this really super strange taste that only after two bites I exchanged my food with my host’s food but it was also the same.

They sell 1 Samosa for Rs. 75

I tried to eat salad but it was mixed with vinegar and mustard sauce which was again something that I could not eat. Finally I ate a little bit of french fries from my host’s food. Anyways, I finished my dinner with half empty stomach. I didn’t take my first meal very seriously and I had a hope that I would find something the next day. We went for the lunch next day and again I did not have any option at all. I was having more problem because I am a vegetarian. Europeans eat meat all the time, even in their breakfast. You can buy meat just anywhere, even at a supermarket or a grocery store. So you can smell the meat everywhere. And another important thing is that they don’t mix many spices as we do in India so you actually very strange smell of meat. I think the smell was more of the meat whereas in India the smell is mixed of spices and meat.

Kheer for Rs. 100

I don’t mind if anybody is eating meat in front of me but I was having a little bit of problem because of the smell. Anyways, it was not a big issue. My second meal was also something that I could not eat and ended up eating french fries with ketchup. My hosts tried their best to get me some European food that I liked but unfortunately European food was not for me. In fact once they took me to a vegan restaurant but I still did not like their as they also used vinegar, mustard sauce and raw garlic sauce in the food. I was not going to any regular restaurant at all, they were taking me to the best options possible but I could not eat anything.

Bombay Express

Finally after my fourth meal at the vegan restaurant I got stomach ache and diarrhea and it happened not because of the quality of the food was bad or something but just because of my stomach and tongue were not liking the food at all and by this time it was just too much. My body just wanted to get rid of the food I had eaten. I did not have any fever and the diarrhea also did not stay long which clearly mean that the quality of food was good but my body didn’t like it at all. My hosts were asking me to just try different options and see if I like anything. They told me if I did not like anything then I just did not need to eat it but I never felt doing it because I did not want to waste their money.

Indian spices

After seeing me struggling with food, my  hosts also gave up and they took me to an Indian restaurant called Bombay Express in Budapest. Bombay Express was a huge relief for me. I did not eat anything there but I bought Indian spices. They were selling a lot of Indian products like Lijjat Papad, MDH Kitchen King, Chaat Masala, pickles and several other things that we usually eat in India. I was so happy to have found spices and bought Kitchen King and Chaat Masala because I had kitchen available at my host’s place. We went back home and I cooked my own food which was like finding refrigerated water in the desert of Sahara:) I just took all the vegetables possible at home, cooked them with Kitchen King and ate with rice.

Paprika

Something really funny happened is that I needed some chillies and asked my hosts if they had any chillies at home. They gave a special kind of chilly called Paprika which is the native chilly of Hungary. They told me that it was so hot and I should not treat it as Indian chilly. But at first I thought that Europeans don’t eat chillies so he just did not have any idea about how much chillies do we use in India. Attila had suggested me to use only one chilly but I used four because I was confident that I would be able to eat it without any problem but I was seriously wrong. The chilly was so hot that mouth was burning when I ate my food:) Paprika had a spark in it which one can easily feel. Anyways, since I was so hungry I just did not care about anything and finished my food. I won’t forget paprika at all.

Menu at Bombay Express

So this is how I survived by cooking my own food at home. And whenever I went out I would either carry my own food or I just ate some french fries with a bottle of beer. But I made sure that I was carrying my both spices – Kitchen King and Chaat Masala along with ketchup. I thought a lot about why I was not able to eat the food my host and other Hungarians were able to eat and I discussed about this issue several times with Attila and Dora also. Sometimes I was so  upset that I was kind on angry but then I thought that I was not in Europe to enjoy the food.

Food at Bombay Express

And if I could not eat the food others were able to eat then it was my problem. I work with foreigners from all over the world and I go with them to restaurants and I see them liking Indian food. They always tell that Indian food is very good. The only problem they usually have in India is with the chillies otherwise they appreciate our food but I did not understand I being an Indian and others I know who have been to Europe did not like their food at all. I talked about this food issue with several other people who had been to Europe and they all had same experience like me.

At one moment I thought that it was because Indian food has better taste than European food which now I feel like is not the truth. Europeans and Americans can eat our food and appreciate it only because they have a lot of options available in their country and they grow up eating different kind of food from all over the world. My first guest after I returned to India told me that they cook Indian food every once in week at home in Oxford. And now when I think about other people I meet they also tell me the same thing. They either cook different food or they go to different restaurants where they have got a lot of options.

Whereas in India we usually eat only and only Indian food and even the foreign food we have is cooked with Chaat Masala or something Indian. So their tongue, stomach and mind is opened for different kind of food. They have an idea about how their food would taste like hence they can enjoy the food. But with a person like I just did not have any idea about what I was going to eat. I feel that most of the Indians will have the same problem like me and it is only because of our limited orientation of mind about food. I would like to make a few recommendations for Vegetarian Indians like me who are going to travel in Europe about food-

  • Try to find an Indian restaurant (But it doesn’t mean that you will find Indian taste because they cook for their people and food taste a bit different. But it could be a huge relief)
  • Check if there is any option of cooking the food at the hotel.
  • Carry at least Sabji Masala, Kitchen King, Chaat Masala (for sure) and ketchup. Chaat Masala is ready to eat and you can change the taste of any food and give it an Indian feeling:)
  • Try to find Corn (Maize). Because you can always find hot water and boil it if nothing is available.
  • Pizza and Pasta is always a good option because we eat them in India but again their pizza doesn’t taste like the one we have got in India.
  • French Fries with Beer (Life Saver)
  • Different kind of breads with cheese, butter, eggs.
  • If you like coffee then you will love Europe as they have got real coffee and they know how to make it.
  • If you are going to be in Hungary then don’t play with their Paprika (the red chillies), believe me its seriously hot.
  • And after all if food really matters a lot, the most important thing for you, then just don’t go to Europe:) haha

I hope this post will help you. Feel free to write me if want to have any suggestions about food in Europe.

Europe visa approved

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Finding any category of visa to any developed nation has always been a huge problem for us Indians. In fact once I had applied for an American tourist visa and it was also denied because they thought that my economical relations with India was not strong enough to prove that I will be coming back after the trip and it happened only 2-3 years ago. This time I got an opportunity to visit Europe. I was invited to Hungary by a friend of mine, Attila, who started an education program for poor kids in Varanasi with my help. Other than Hungary Attila had planned a trip to Slovakia and Austria as well. I did not need to get separate visa for all three different countries because they are all part of Schengen countries and only one visa for Schengen area was enough for me.

I had so many invitation letters sent by my American friends when they wanted to invite me to the US and all of those letters were written on just plain paper but they had provided their residence and income proof with a covering letter stating that they will be taking care of me while I will be in the US but still my visa was denied. Attila did something different. He went to concerned government office in Budapest and wrote an invitation letter through them and sent it to me. The letter looked very professional, it had signature of Attila and some government officer. Other than this it had some basic information about Attila and me also.

I went to Delhi with all the supporting documents, in fact I carried whatever I had. All the certificates, residence proof, income proof and other documents. Now Hungarian embassy also works with VFS for visa document verification which was not the case only until a few months ago. So I went to VFS office instead of Hungarian embassy to apply for my visa. It was kind of confusing place but luckily I found it. The office was located at International Business Center next to Nehru Place metro station. This building had several different VFS offices working for different countries.

For popular destinations they had different rooms but for a place like Hungary, France, Italy, Switzerland they had only different counters in one room. I went to the counter for Hungary and as I was expecting there were not many people in the line because not many people go to Hungary. In fact Hungarian counter was working for France:) Anyways, the staffs were helpful. They checked all of my documents, charged me the visa fee, VFS service fee and that’s all. But they did not have any information about when I will be called for the interview. They just asked me to go back to Varanasi and wait for the phone call.

I asked him to just to give me a clue and said that it was jut not possible at all for him to make any guess. It could take any time up to 15 days. I decided to stay somewhere close to Delhi hence went traveling to Haridwar, Rishikesh and Dehradoon. I was expecting to get a call within next two-three days because Hungarian embassy doesn’t process so many visa applications. But I was not right at all, they called me on the 6th day after applying and asked me to come to the Hungarian embassy a week after which was on the 12 day after applying for visa.

Another interesting thing was that they asked me to bring the evidence of contract which I did not understand. They were asking me to bring photographs of Attila working with me, traveling in India, doing anything…they just wanted to see the proof of my relations with him. I had so many pics so that was not an issue at all. I returned back to Varanasi stayed here for a few days and then went back to Delhi again for interview. I arrived at the embassy on time but the counselor was late by 20 minutes. The counselor was just like the counselor I had met at the American embassy two years ago- she was nothing but a robot.

She would ask me questions and write about it on a piece of paper, then ask another questions, that’s all. She asked me for the pics but did not even look at it. It seemed like she was the busiest person in the world. She just did not want to talk with me. haha. To be honest American counselor was more like trying to read my mind, he was playing with my answer but this lady was only interested in asking questions and writing down my answers. Her questions were very interesting. The best one I liked was if I knew the last name of Attila and his wife. Luckily I knew their last name so it was no problem. After all these questions she showed interest in keeping my original documents for verification.

She took my income tax return document along with tour guide training certificate. She told me that I will be informed once they have made any decision. I got a call by VFS after a week or so that my passport was ready at the VFS center in New Delhi. But I was already in Varanasi by this time so sent an authorization letter to my brother to collect the passport on my behalf. He collected the passport and saw that visa was approved. They issued visa for Schengen countries which meant visa for 26 countries. Nothing was so complicated but I won’t say that anything was easy at all.

I had to go to Delhi at first and then nobody knew how long would it take for interview after applying for visa at the VFS, I was just wandering around here and there spending all of my money, and when they called me for the interview it was after a week. Anyways, I am not really upset with anything but I think such things could be easily avoided if they want. They just need to book an appointment right away for the interview or take maximum of one day because the passport and application is sent the same day to the embassy from VFS office. If they could have informed me the date of the interview even the next day then I would have saved at least Rs. 25,000 which I spent just traveling here and there near to Delhi.