Tag Archives: Archaeological Survey of India

Hindu at Taj Mahal’s Namaz

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I’ve always had a keen interest in various religions, particularly Islam, and recently, I had the opportunity to learn more about it. During my tour guide training in Gwalior, I shared an apartment with a Muslim man named Sana, and we’ve since become good friends. We lived together for six weeks in Gwalior, traveled together for a week in Jaipur and Agra, and I even stayed at his apartment in Delhi. I had long been curious about Namaz (the Islamic prayer) and was excited to learn more. On Eid, while staying with Sana, his friend Khesal, and Prem in Agra, we were just a five-minute walk from the Taj Mahal.

Sana is an unconventional Muslim. He once told me he was an atheist, while Khesal was a devout Muslim who would leave our training sessions to perform Namaz. Sana was quite open-minded, even about things like drinking, which is prohibited in Islam. On Eid, Sana and Khesal wanted to perform Namaz at the Taj Mahal, which offers free entry on this day. I asked if I could join them. Sana was supportive, but Khesal seemed concerned about bringing a non-Muslim to the mosque. I had discussed Namaz with Khesal the night before Eid and had some idea of what to expect, but I was both excited and a bit apprehensive.

I didn’t want to be stopped and told to leave because of my Hindu identity. Sana reassured me that everything would be fine if I followed his advice. He instructed me to hide the red thread on my wrist and to ensure my Janeu (sacred thread) wasn’t visible. Despite my excitement, I was nervous. I asked my friend Prem to join us, but he declined, citing his limited knowledge of Hinduism and his general discomfort. So, I went to the Taj Mahal for Namaz with Sana alone. I bought a handkerchief to cover my head and tried to blend in. With an estimated twenty to thirty thousand people present, I felt certain I was the only Hindu there, and as a Brahmin, I felt even more conspicuous.

When Namaz began, I was anxious about making a mistake. Sana had taught me the basics, and I was closely observing those around me. I did make a mistake, but Sana noticed and corrected me. I mistakenly recited the Gayatri Mantra instead of the Quranic verses, but I managed to complete the Namaz without drawing attention to my Brahmin background. Completing Namaz was a fulfilling experience. Sana had mentioned that regular Namaz practitioners seldom experience joint pain due to the frequent standing and bending. After performing Namaz, I ventured into the Muslim neighborhood behind the Taj Mahal and saw the festivities of the festival.

It was a wonderful experience, and I would love to learn Namaz properly in the future, especially with someone like Sana to guide and ensure my comfort.

Finally received tour guide license

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I finally received my tour guide license on the 30th, marking the end of a three-year wait. I had initially applied for it in 2006. I began preparing for the entrance exam shortly after my application, but had to halt my preparations when the Tour Guide Association of India sued the Indian government over the licensing process. The association was resistant to new entrants, fearing that their established positions were at risk. Many of the existing guides had obtained their licenses when the process was simpler, and now that the requirements were stricter, the association was obstructing the changes to protect their interests.

My brother Chandan, who works as an escort, shared a humorous anecdote with me. On his last visit to Benares, he hired a government-approved tour guide for a morning boat ride. The guide spoke at length about Benares, Hinduism, and the Ganges River, emphasizing that the Ganges is revered as a mother by Hindus. However, shortly after his talk, the guide began chewing betel and spat it out into the Ganges in front of his clients. This understandably upset the clients, who questioned whether Hindus spit on their mother. The guide had no response, which reflects the kind of professionalism that should be avoided. I hope that the training I received will prevent such unprofessional behavior.

The certificate

The tour guide training program faced numerous delays due to ongoing legal battles between the Tour Guide Association of India and the government. The association initially sued as soon as the application forms were released, causing several months of delays. After the government managed to resolve the first legal issue, they conducted the entrance exam, only for the association to sue again, leading to further delays as the case was heard in the Delhi High Court. Ultimately, the government won, and the High Court directed them to resume the training program, which finally started in August 2009 after a three-year delay.

Sana and I at convocation hall

The training was conducted at IITTM in Gwalior and lasted for 16 weeks—6 weeks of classroom instruction and 10 weeks of fieldwork. The curriculum included over 75 lectures, and I wrote a research paper focusing on the cultural diversity of Benares. The program concluded with a written exam and an interview, both of which I successfully passed. I received my certificate and now need to visit the India Tourism office in Delhi with a police verification certificate to obtain a provisional license, which will be valid for two months. After this period, I should receive my permanent license (red card). I hope there will be no further issues in Delhi.

Happy moment

Guide training program – week 7

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The seventh week of the guide training program wrapped up with an orientation tour through Agra, Jaipur, and Delhi. Our first stop was Agra, where we visited four major monuments: the Taj Mahal, the Red Fort, Sikandara (the Tomb of Akbar), and Itmad-ud-Daula. With one guide for fifty participants, navigating Agra was quite the experience. The water there was notably sour, so we were advised to stick to bottled water. The city was bustling with touts constantly trying to sell something near the monuments, and we were taken to several tourist shops that were impressively large.

These shops, which also provided our meals, saw the tour as an opportunity to showcase their products. Although the items were significantly overpriced—often ten times the market rate—the quality was excellent. It was a lucrative deal for them to host two hundred tour guides at once. In Jaipur, we visited Jaigarh Fort, Amber Fort, City Palace, and Jantar Mantar. The water quality in Jaipur was as poor as in Agra. While I enjoyed most of the monuments, the City Palace stood out as particularly commercial. Only a small part of the palace was open to visitors; access to other areas required extra fees, which varied based on the visitor’s profile.

The City Palace also had its own licensing system, which meant that even government-approved tour guides had to either hire a City Palace guide or pay additional fees. The City Palace allowed various events, including birthday celebrations, for a price, and even offered the option to have the king himself welcome guests. Delhi, as expected, was chaotic. I learned that TGFI (Tour Guide Federation of India) had instructed local guides not to train us during our Delhi visit. Consequently, our institute struggled to find a guide, eventually having to hire a monument guide. TGFI’s opposition to our training program was evident, as they had previously sued the government over it. Their protest was a clear sign of their dissatisfaction.

The shops in Delhi, unlike those in Jaipur and Agra, were less accommodating. Although they organized our meals, the overall experience did not match the quality and hospitality we encountered in the other cities. Despite the challenges, the tour was valuable. I did not gain extensive knowledge due to the high guide-to-participant ratio, but the experience was still worthwhile. Looking ahead, I plan to start my career in Varanasi after obtaining my license. I intend to study the city thoroughly before considering work in other locations. Eventually, I may explore other cities, hire guides, and expand my knowledge to enhance my proficiency as a tour guide.

Guide training program – week 6

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The final week of classroom teaching has concluded, and it was a diverse and insightful week. We covered a range of topics including Jaipur, Indo-Islamic architecture, emergency procedures, gems and jewelry, Jainism, the business history of India, and project report preparation. While all the classes were informative, the one on “Things to Do in Any Emergency” stood out as the most memorable. The class was delivered by a retired Air India air hostess, and her approach was refreshingly candid.

She covered essential topics such as medical emergencies, sex, homosexuality, HIV/AIDS, and other STIs. Her openness about these subjects was unprecedented in our training. She provided practical advice on what to do if a tourist makes inappropriate sexual advances. She emphasized that while it is ultimately our choice whether to engage in such activities, if we decide to proceed, using condoms is crucial to reduce the risk of STI transmission. Her focus on HIV/AIDS was particularly notable; she shared her own experiences from her career in the service sector, highlighting the importance of safe practices.

Her discussion on homosexuality was equally enlightening. Although I was already familiar with the basics, many in the class found it new and eye-opening. She encouraged participants to embrace their sexuality and communicate openly with their families. She also discussed recent legal advancements, such as the High Court judgment supporting LGBTQ+ rights in India. She criticized the outdated belief that homosexuality is a disease and debunked the misconception that marriage to an opposite-sex partner could “cure” it.

The air hostess’s candidness about such sensitive topics was striking. In a setting where discussing sex and sexuality is often taboo, her willingness to address these issues was both bold and appreciated. The lecture was engaging and left a significant impact on everyone. On the final day of the week, all participants gathered in the institute’s auditorium for a certificate presentation. This certificate will be useful for engaging with government officials regarding our projects. Female participants were specially acknowledged on stage to encourage their participation, with the institute stressing the need for more female tour guides in the Indian tourism industry.

Overall, the week was both educational and inspiring, providing us with valuable knowledge and practical skills for our future careers.

Guide training program – week 5

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I’ve completed five weeks of training in Gwalior, and now only one more week of classroom sessions remains before we head out for the tour. This past week was quite engaging. We covered a range of topics including Indian Buddhism, Indian archaeology and rock painting, conservation, Kailash Mansarovar, Ayurveda, the Taj Mahal, Indian classical music, vocal and dance, virtual reality in tourism, and travel legislation. Among these, the classes on Indian Buddhism and the Taj Mahal were the highlights, while the sessions on conservation and Indian classical music were less enjoyable.

The conservation class was particularly challenging. The lecturer spoke at an incredibly fast pace for two continuous hours, covering slide after slide without much opportunity for interaction or questions. He even insisted that we use the restroom before the class began and kept the door locked to avoid disruptions. It was overwhelming and left little room for engagement or clarification. Similarly, the Indian classical music, vocal, and dance class was a bit of a letdown. While the performances were entertaining—featuring live music and dance—the lecture itself was poorly structured.

We were introduced to complex concepts and ragas without sufficient foundational knowledge, making it difficult to follow and understand. On the other hand, the class on Indian Buddhism was one of the best I’ve experienced. The lecturer, a professor of Buddhism from Delhi University, brought a unique perspective. Although he was initially scheduled to talk about Indian Buddhism, he quickly shifted focus to broader topics like Indian politics, social issues, and personal insights. His engaging discussion included fascinating tidbits, such as the fact that over 40% of heart attacks in the US and Canada occur on Mondays due to work pressure. His lecture was both informative and entertaining, and his candidness made it particularly enjoyable.

Our upcoming tour schedule is now finalized. The classroom sessions at the Gwalior center will conclude on the 18th, and we’ll travel to Agra the evening of the same day. Our training in Agra will take place on the 19th and 20th, with a day off on the 21st. We’ll then proceed to Jaipur for training on the 22nd and 23rd, followed by another day off on the 24th. Our final training sessions will be held in Delhi on the 25th and 26th. During this tour, we’ll need to arrange our own lodging and meals, but the institute will provide transportation and bring in experts for our training.

Guide training program – week 4

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The fourth week of training is now complete, with just two more weeks to go before our tour of Delhi, Agra, and Jaipur, followed by fieldwork in Benares. This week was also quite engaging, featuring lectures on various topics including the travel industry in India, Indian art, Varanasi, temples, Indo-Islamic architecture, cultural differences, epigraphy and numismatics, the temples of Bateshwar, Indian classical music, and tourism in Himachal Pradesh. Among these, I found the lectures on epigraphy and numismatics, the temples of Bateshwar, and tourism in Himachal Pradesh particularly fascinating.

**Epigraphy and Numismatics:**

The lecture on epigraphy and numismatics was both enlightening and intriguing. We delved into the study of inscriptions and coins, which provided valuable insights into India’s historical and cultural evolution. Understanding these aspects can greatly enhance our appreciation of India’s rich heritage.

Nandan in Bramhi (the oldest script)

**Temples of Bateshwar:**

The presentation by Mr. Mohammad K.K., the Superintendent Archaeologist at ASI, was truly remarkable. He shared a compelling slideshow of his work in Muraina, Madhya Pradesh, where he and his team uncovered and reconstructed a group of over 200 temples that had been buried underground for over a thousand years due to an earthquake. The area, once controlled by dangerous Naxalites, was finally accessible thanks to the efforts of Mr. K.K. and his team, who collaborated with locals and even met with the Naxalites to gain their permission. The dedication and meticulous work involved in reconstructing these temples using both original and new materials were awe-inspiring. While this may not directly relate to our tour guiding profession, Mr. K.K.’s passion and commitment to his work were truly impressive.

This is how Bateshwar temples were found

**Tourism in Himachal Pradesh:**

The lecture on tourism in Himachal Pradesh was another highlight. It provided an overview of the region’s tourism potential, highlighting its natural beauty and cultural significance. This topic is particularly relevant as it offers insights into how diverse destinations in India can be promoted and appreciated.

**Indian Classical Music:**

On the other hand, the lecture on Indian classical music was challenging. The professor’s approach was rather advanced, expecting participants to sing and engage with complex concepts without covering the basics. This was reminiscent of the previous week’s astrology lecture, where the content was also quite specialized. It might have been more effective if foundational concepts were introduced first.

**Indo-Islamic Architecture:**

The lecture on Indo-Islamic architecture was delivered by an ASI expert and included a surprising and somewhat contentious topic: the ban of foreign escorts at Indian monuments. According to the lecturer, foreign escorts often bypass local guides and do not bring tourist groups to local shops, which affects the livelihood of local guides who rely on commissions and tips. This issue highlights the economic impact of tourism practices and the importance of supporting local communities.

Overall, this week has been rich in diverse content, offering both inspiring and challenging experiences. I’m looking forward to applying what I’ve learned during the upcoming tour and fieldwork in Benares.

Guide training program – week 3

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Half of the training is now complete. I have three weeks of classroom instruction and one week of orientation tour remaining before I begin my fieldwork. I am very excited about this next phase. I’ve discussed my fieldwork topic, LGBT tourism, with other participants, and they’ve raised concerns that the institute may not approve it. This is troubling, but I’m determined to address it. I’m gathering basic information about LGBT tourism to present a strong case to my professor for approving my topic.

If my proposed subject isn’t approved, I’m considering focusing on either eco-tourism or rural tourism. I’m not interested in traditional Indian tourism subjects like heritage or culture, although I will need to learn about these topics and include information on the heritage and culture of Benares in my research. Specializing in LGBT tourism would be unique in India, and it would be a significant advantage if the institute accepts it. If LGBT tourism is not approved, I’d like to explore eco-tourism in Mirzapur district. Located just 75 km from Benares, Mirzapur is rich in natural beauty.

Our professors discussed the caves, cave temples, and rock paintings of Mirzapur, which I find fascinating. Despite its lack of promotion as a tourist destination, Mirzapur offers many opportunities with its waterfalls, dams, rivers, lakes, and hills. I’m considering starting trekking and camping tours there. Even if my LGBT tourism subject is approved, I would still promote and work in Mirzapur. Its rural setting offers great potential for rural tourism as well. I’m very enthusiastic about this project.

This week featured some engaging lectures. One guest speaker, Mr. Pandya, a tour guide who won the Best Tour Guide Award in 2008, shared his experiences. He is reportedly the highest-paid tour guide in India. Unlike most tour guides who stay in budget hotels while their clients enjoy luxury accommodations, Mr. Pandya stays in the same five-star hotels as his clients. His high rates and personal rules mean he only takes on five or six assignments a year. He charges $100 per day, which doesn’t seem excessive to me, as I sometimes earn that much working as a translator.

He also emphasized the importance of improving our accents, noting that while Indians have their own English, we should aim to speak the version used by tourists. I also learned a new term this week: “Chabbi,” which means commission in the tourism sector. A Muslim professor, an expert on tourism in Jammu & Kashmir, discussed how he initially avoided taking commissions from shopkeepers due to religious reasons but has since accepted it as part of the global tourism system. He mentioned that in some countries, it’s referred to as profit-sharing, which can be a more acceptable term for Muslims. He also noted that if he doesn’t bring clients to travel agency stores, he risks losing his job.

We had other fascinating lectures this week on topics such as tourism offices in India and abroad, Islam, female foreign tourists in India, the condition of women in medieval Indian history, eco-tourism, water tourism, adventure tourism, India’s architectural heritage, the Kamasutra, and Khajuraho sculptures. I asked the professor discussing the Kamasutra whether it addresses homosexuality, and he mentioned that homosexuality has been present for a long time, even noting that Babar had male partners. He also remarked that Afghanistan currently has a strong gay culture. Additionally, during a lecture on Islam by a professor from Jamia Millia Islamia University, a participant inquired about the condition of women in Islam.

The professor responded that the condition of women is poor across all religions. When another participant pointed out the relatively liberal treatment of women in Hindu society, the professor simply smiled and referenced the Agni Pariksha of Sita, then left the classroom abruptly. Overall, I’m thoroughly enjoying the program and looking forward to the remaining four weeks of training.

Guide training program – week 1 and week 2

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The first two weeks of the guide training program are complete, and I am genuinely impressed with the quality of education here. The institute is excellent, and the professors are both helpful and friendly. On the first day, we were introduced to the institute and its staff. They also briefed us on swine flu, including its symptoms, and advised us to take care of our health. If anyone exhibits symptoms, there is a designated department at the institute to assist them by arranging visits to a government hospital.

The professors here are exceptional. Many of them teach at foreign universities annually. This is a stark contrast to my previous experience with strict teachers at my previous schools and university. Here, the professors are very approachable and use a lot of technology. They all have laptops and use projectors to present PowerPoint slides. Initially, the training was to be conducted at the institute, but due to a lack of available air-conditioned rooms—occupied by other programs—the venue was changed. We are now using a hotel conference room with air conditioning.

Participants are divided into four batches: A, B, C, and D. Batches A and B attend sessions from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., while batches C and D have sessions from 2:15 p.m. to 6:15 p.m. I am in the second batch. Over 95% of the participants are experienced unauthorized guides, and I am the only one in my batch without prior experience with a travel agency. Some participants are over 55 years old.

Before each session, the professors encourage participants to share their knowledge if they disagree with any content, as they acknowledge that we may have more information in certain areas. Our professors are not only from IITTM but also from various universities and institutions across India. Each day features a different professor lecturing on a new subject. The institute emphasizes that a tour guide is a living encyclopedia and therefore invites experts from diverse fields to provide comprehensive training.

While our training focuses on North India, we have had professors discussing other regions, such as the West and South. Most classes have been engaging, but two stood out as particularly unusual. One was on Indian astrology, which could have been interesting if it had covered the basics. Instead, the professor delved into advanced topics and was more focused on marketing his services, offering his business card and inviting us to his office in Rajasthan for personal consultations.

Another class, on menu planning in hotels, was less relevant to our training. It would have been more interesting if it had covered hotel culture, but instead, it focused on how hotels plan their menus and generate revenue from their restaurants. None of the participants found this class particularly useful or relevant to our guide training.

We are receiving instruction on a wide range of topics, including different segments of tourism, religions, cultures, cuisine, IT in tourism, and the tourism industry both in India and abroad. One segment that particularly intrigued me was LGBT tourism. I had not been familiar with this aspect of tourism before, but it seems fascinating. Given that no other students are focusing on this topic, I see it as a unique opportunity to align my research with the guide training program.

The professors are also addressing various social issues, such as the Coca-Cola controversy, environmental concerns, water issues, and women’s rights. In a class on IT in tourism, we covered blogging. Although I already knew about blogging, emailing, and web design, I inquired about search engine optimization. The professor did not address it, likely because most participants were unfamiliar with the Internet and he did not want to delve into advanced topics in that context. Nonetheless, I enjoyed the class.

The program coordinator mentioned that we should be proud of the training provided, noting that previous programs had only organized around 20 classes, whereas this year’s program includes at least 75 classes on various subjects. I am thoroughly enjoying the training and am eagerly anticipating my research on LGBT tourism in Benares.

Guide training program – introduction

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I arrived in Gwalior today to start the tour guide training program. Since I only received the information about the training 10 days ago, I wasn’t able to arrange my accommodation in advance. Upon arrival, I stayed in a dharamshala for the night. I had reached out to a friend in Delhi who is also part of the program about finding a rental apartment in Gwalior. He arrived today with a friend who is pursuing a PhD in Urdu at Jawaharlal Nehru University.

My friend, Prem, had contacted someone in Gwalior to help us find an apartment. After arriving, he met his contact, who showed us a few options near the training venue. We ultimately selected a 2 BHK apartment close to the institute. While we have some mats and basic household items, there is a significant issue with the water here. The tap water isn’t safe to drink, and there are no shops selling branded bottled water. I’m confident we’ll find a solution soon.

On the bright side, I’ve purchased an internet data card, so I’ll have 24-hour internet access while in Gwalior. My training begins tomorrow, and I’m very excited to get started!

My bed for next two months

My bed for next two months

Gwalior for tour guide training

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On the 27th, I traveled to Gwalior for counseling regarding the tour guide training program. My train was delayed by two hours, so I arrived at 10:30 AM, giving me nearly four hours before the counseling session was scheduled to start at 3 PM. I had heard a lot about the Gwalior Fort, so I decided to explore it. I took an auto rickshaw to the fort and reached by 11:00 AM. Gwalior Fort is massive and unlike any fort I’ve seen before. Perched 300 feet atop a hill, it features a nearly 2-kilometer-long inclined road leading to its entrance.

Within the fort, I visited the Mansingh Palace, the Sas-Bahu Temple, the Sikh Gurudwara, and the Teli Temple. Despite having three hours to explore, I quickly realized that the fort was far too vast to see everything in that time. I tried to find a guidebook or some information about the fort, but there were no tourist resources available. The ticket counter at the entrance listed a ticket price of twenty paise, a denomination that hasn’t been used for years, suggesting that updates were long overdue. The only refreshment option was a single coffee shop.

I had hoped to catch the evening sound and light show but didn’t have enough time. I particularly enjoyed the Sas-Bahu Temple, which was adorned with intricate carvings that are around 500 years old. While at the fort, a group of young Sikh men approached me for a photo. Afterward, one of the youngest, who looked about thirteen or fourteen, advised me to wake up early. I was taken aback as he seemed to know about my nocturnal habits. He then began to ask for money, starting at fifty rupees and eventually reducing his demand to just two rupees, but I didn’t give him any.

Following the Sas-Bahu Temple, I visited the Man Singh Palace, built by Raja Man Singh Tomar in 1508. The palace was later captured by the Mughals and used as a special jail for important prisoners. It was the only palace I’d seen with colorful tiles on its walls, adding to its unique beauty. I was approached by several people offering to guide me, but with only thirty minutes left, I decided against it. In retrospect, a guide might have been helpful as the palace was quite complex, reminiscent of Lucknow’s Bada Imambada.

I then proceeded to the counseling center, where I was surprised to see many attendees over the age of thirty-five, some even over fifty. Initially, I thought they might be parents of the students, but they were actually individuals who had passed the exam. It seems these experienced guides were seeking licenses to formalize their status, as they frequently face challenges from government guides and ASI officers. The institute was impressive, featuring a computer lab, library, auditorium, and well-maintained grounds, all air-conditioned. The counseling was divided into two parts: document verification and registration.

I first had to get my documents verified in a separate room where three employees checked my certificates and their attested copies. After this, I filled out a form with details like my name, roll number, marks, batch preferences, and center. I had hoped to join the New Delhi center for the second batch, but it was fully booked, so I was assigned to the Gwalior center instead. The training fee was Rs. 2000, covering the library, computer lab, and teaching costs. The training will start on January 5th and last for 45 days, followed by a week-long tour.

Afterward, I’ll be assigned a city or tourist region to research and write a report on, which must be completed within ten weeks. An exam and interview will follow, and upon passing, a tour guide license will be issued. By 5 PM, with my train back to Benares at 8:40 PM, I left the institute and walked to the railway station, which was about 5 kilometers away. Walking allowed me to see more of Gwalior, a city that, while smaller than Benares, appeared more organized with better traffic, housing, and greenery. On the train, I met a fellow Benares resident who had also qualified for the exam.

He had been working with Japanese tourists but was unhappy due to their perceived lack of generosity. Now that he would have a license, he planned to work with tourists from wealthier countries like the US or Britain. He mentioned that many Japanese-speaking guides in Delhi can’t read or write Japanese, having learned the language through conversation. However, future exams will be conducted in various languages, which might address this issue. Overall, the trip to Gwalior was short but productive. I completed the counseling process, explored the fort, and had a pleasant walk around the city. I’m looking forward to my training period in Gwalior.