It has always been my dream to travel across India on my own motorbike—to feel the changing landscapes, the shifting air, and the kind of freedom that only the open road can offer. This wasn’t a sudden idea; it’s a dream that has lived with me for years, quietly growing stronger with time. Before this new beginning, I had already spent quite some time riding. I owned a Hero Honda Achiever 150 and a TVS Jupiter, and with them I explored parts of Eastern Uttar Pradesh, Bihar, and even the UP–Madhya Pradesh border areas. Those journeys meant a lot to me—they were my first real taste of long-distance riding. The Achiever was dependable, but somewhere inside, I knew I needed something more powerful and more stable for the kind of journeys I had in mind.
My previous Hero Honda Achiever (sticker says CBZ but its actually Achiever:)
Most of those rides were with my friend Chintu. We weren’t just riding partners, we were dreamers together. Since 2018, we had been planning an all-India road trip. We talked about routes, destinations, food stops, and all the unknown adventures waiting for us. It felt like just a matter of time before we would make it happen. But somehow, 2018 and 2019 passed us by. Plans stayed plans. Then came 2020 and everything changed. While the world was grappling with COVID, I was fighting a battle of my own. From January 2020 to December 2021, I was severely ill. I spent most of that time away from home, undergoing liver transplant treatment at ILBS in Delhi. It was one of the most difficult phases of my life. There were days when I was simply trying to survive, moments when everything felt uncertain.
One of the days at the ILBS, New Delhi
And in the middle of all that, I lost Chintu. In October 2020, he passed away due to COVID. That loss hit me deeply. It wasn’t just about losing a friend, it felt like losing a part of that dream we had built together. The road trip we had imagined so many times suddenly felt incomplete. I often thought that if he were still here, things would have been different. It wouldn’t have taken this long. He would have pushed me, motivated me, and maybe we would have already been somewhere on the highways of India by now. Even during my illness, when I was battling for my life, that dream stayed alive in my mind. But after losing him, it carried a different weight, it became more personal.
Chintu and I during a trip to Rameshwaram, Tamilmadu
There were moments when I thought it might never happen. But after my transplant, when I finally came out of the ICU, something inside me lit up again. I started planning once more. Even in the hospital, I managed to save some money, holding on to a simple goal: buy a bike after discharge and start the journey. But reality was harsh. When the nurse explained the post-hospitalization care, it almost broke me. The first six months came with strict restrictions, so strict that even stepping out or socializing felt impossible, let alone traveling across the country. At the same time, India was facing the second and third waves of COVID.
Hunter 350
Still, I didn’t stop dreaming. I kept planning quietly, holding on to hope. But my health had other plans. In February and April 2022, I was hospitalized again. Then in September 2022, I developed kidney stones. It took multiple attempts before the surgery finally happened in February 2023. Just when I thought I was moving forward, I injured my back after the surgery while skipping rope affecting my L3, L4, and L5. Doctors advised me to avoid long bike rides. It felt like an endless cycle, one problem after another. Every time I got close to my dream, something pulled me back. During those days, I found comfort in watching motorcycle travel vlogs on YouTube. They kept me motivated. They reminded me that the dream was still alive, even if I couldn’t chase it just yet.
Looks amazing 🙂
Time passed, and slowly, I began to heal. Then, on the 29th of September, while sitting at home, I had a simple realization: maybe these problems are not going to end completely. Maybe I’ve been waiting too long for the “right time.” And if I keep waiting, I might never start. That day, I decided to take a step forward. From all my research and countless hours of watching videos, I had shortlisted two bikes: the Royal EnfieldMeteor 350 and the Honda CB350. But as I looked deeper, I realized that Honda’s service network for their 350cc bikes was very limited across India. Since I wanted this bike for long-distance travel, I didn’t want to take that risk. So I chose Royal Enfield.
Front view of Hunter
It was Navratri, and getting a bike on the same day wasn’t easy. Still, I called multiple showrooms in Varanasi. After several attempts, the Royal Enfield Lahartara branch agreed to arrange one for me that very day. I still had back pain, but my excitement overshadowed everything else. I asked them to prepare a Meteor 350. But when I reached the showroom, something unexpected happened. A gentleman there mentioned that the Meteor is relatively heavy and can be difficult to push, especially in tight spaces. That made me think. At home, I park my bike in a narrow alley : about 5 feet wide and 50 meters long. Taking the bike in wouldn’t be a problem, but bringing it out daily could become a challenge.
My parking space
At the same time, I also thought that this is my first step into the 350cc segment. Maybe I should start with something simpler and more manageable, So I changed my decision. I chose the Royal Enfield Hunter 350. But in that moment, standing in the showroom, surrounded by new bikes and new beginnings, there was also a quiet emptiness. I missed Chintu the most right then. I kept thinking how different this day would have been if he were there with me, how we would have argued over colors, laughed at small things, and planned our first ride together right there on the spot.
It felt like he should have been standing next to me. I know that if he were alive, it wouldn’t have taken this long. We would have already been on the road, chasing the dream we once spoke about so often. Today, as I stand with this new machine, I feel a mix of emotions, excitement, gratitude, and a deep sense of purpose. This bike is not just something I bought; it represents survival, patience, loss, and hope. The journey hasn’t started yet, not fully. But something important has. I’ve finally taken the first step. And wherever this road leads me, a part of that journey will always belong to Chintu.
Hosting “Real India”: A Field Journey with Students from Denmark
There are some experiences that stay with you not just because of their scale, but because of the responsibility they carry and the lessons they leave behind. Organizing and hosting an educational visit for a group of 56 students and 4 professors from Hasseris Gymnasium, Denmark, was one such experience for me : intense, challenging, meaningful, and deeply rewarding.This was not just another assignment. It was the first time I was handling a group of this size on my own, and more importantly, a group that had come with a clear intention to understand the “real India,” beyond monuments and postcards, and to engage with the social realities faced by communities at the grassroots level.
From planning and logistics to cultural sensitivity and crisis management, this journey tested me at every step. But it also reaffirmed why I do what I do.
Students at Lok Samiti
The Beginning: Excitement Mixed with Nervousness
When I first received confirmation about the group, my initial reaction was a mix of excitement and anxiety. Hosting international visitors was not new to me, but managing a group of 60 people : students and professors together was an entirely different challenge. The expectations were high. This was not a leisure tour. It was an educational immersion. The students were curious, observant, and eager to learn. Their professors were experienced and detail-oriented. I knew that every aspect of the visit had to be carefully thought through.
The biggest concern at the beginning was simple but critical: logistics.
The Transport Challenge: Solving a Complex Puzzle
One of the first major hurdles was transportation. The plan was to take the group to Nagepur village, where they would interact with the grassroots organization Lok Samiti and experience rural life firsthand. However, there was a problem. The streets leading into the village were narrow, too narrow for a large bus to navigate comfortably. Bringing a 60-seater bus into the village would not only be impractical but could also disrupt the local environment. After careful consideration, I decided on an alternative solution: instead of one large vehicle, I arranged 15 Toyota Innova Crysta cars.
This decision came with its own complexities:
Coordinating 15 drivers
Ensuring all vehicles arrived on time
Managing group distribution
Maintaining communication across vehicles
But it was the most practical and respectful way to access the village without causing inconvenience to the residents. Looking back, this decision set the tone for the entire visit, it was about adapting to the local context rather than imposing external convenience.
Planning with Lok Samiti: Designing an Authentic Experience
A key part of the visit was the collaboration with Lok Samiti, a grassroots organization working in the Varanasi region on issues related to community development, environment, and social justice. I worked closely with Mr. Nandlal Master, the convener of Lok Samiti, to design the structure of the visit. Our goal was clear: we did not want to create a staged or artificial experience. We wanted the students to feel the authenticity of rural India.
We discussed the flow of the day in detail:
A traditional welcome
Refreshments
An introductory presentation
A documentary screening
Village visits and community interaction
A plantation activity
Lunch and discussion
Open Q&A session
Every element was intentional. Every segment had a purpose.
A Warm Welcome: First Impressions Matter
When the group arrived at Lok Samiti, we began with a traditional Indian welcome. Each student and professor was greeted with:
A scarf (angavastram)
A rudraksha mala
A tilak (teeka) applied on the forehead
This moment was simple, yet powerful. It immediately created a cultural connection. For many of the students, it was their first direct experience of such a traditional form of hospitality. You could see curiosity, smiles, and a sense of openness emerging right from the beginning.
Refreshments and Settling In
After the welcome, we arranged tea and light snacks. This gave everyone time to relax after the journey and adjust to the new environment. These small transitions are important. They create space for people to absorb their surroundings before engaging in deeper discussions.
Refreshment time
Understanding Lok Samiti: The Indoor Session
We then moved to an indoor session where the team from Lok Samiti introduced their work.
This included:
An overview of their mission and activities
Introduction to field workers and volunteers
Distribution of informational booklets
The idea was to provide context before taking the students into the field. It helped them understand the social, environmental, and political dimensions of the work being done.
The students watched with deep interest. For many of them, this was their first exposure to such a movement in rural India. It also sparked questions that would later shape the discussion sessions.
Into the Village: Real Engagement Begins
After the indoor sessions, it was time to step into the village. Managing such a large group in a rural setting required careful planning. To ensure meaningful interaction, I divided the students into five smaller groups.
Each group was led by:
Myself
Two additional guides
Members of Lok Samiti
This structure allowed for more personal and immersive experiences.
Community Interaction: The Heart of the Visit
My primary focus was community interaction. We organized visits to local homes, where students could:
Sit with families
Observe daily life
Ask questions
Understand challenges firsthand
These moments were not scripted. They were organic and often emotional.
The students encountered:
Simplicity and resilience
Resource limitations
Strong community bonds
For many, this was a transformative experience. It shifted their understanding of poverty, development, and dignity.
Community interaction
Plantation Activity: Leaving Something Behind
Another important part of the visit was the plantation program. The students actively participated in planting trees across the village. This was not just symbolic, it was a way of contributing to the community. We also requested the villagers to take care of the planted trees, ensuring that this act would have a lasting impact. The activity created a sense of shared responsibility and connection between the visitors and the local community.
Plantation
Lunch and Informal Conversations
After the village visit and plantation activity, everyone returned to the Lok Samiti office for lunch. This was a much-needed break, but it was also a time for informal conversations. Students discussed their experiences, shared observations, and reflected on what they had seen.
The Q&A Session: Deep and Meaningful Dialogue
Post-lunch, we organized an open question-and-answer session. We invited Lok Samiti workers and volunteers working on various issues to engage directly with the students.
The range of topics covered was extensive:
Coca-Cola and environmental concerns
Women’s rights and health
Education challenges
Gender issues
Community development
Social inequality
The students asked thoughtful and sometimes difficult questions. The responses were honest, grounded, and insightful. This session stood out as one of the most intellectually engaging parts of the visit.
Question and Answer session
A Joyful Ending: Music, Dance, and Connection
Before concluding the visit, something beautiful happened. The students from Denmark and the children studying at the Lok Samiti school came together in a spontaneous celebration of music and dance. There was laughter, energy, and pure joy. Moments like these go beyond language and culture. They create human connections that are difficult to describe but impossible to forget.
Students dancing
Acts of Kindness: Gifts and Support
The visiting students had brought gifts for the children at the Lok Samiti school. These were distributed, bringing smiles and excitement. In addition, they made a financial contribution. I later used this donation to purchase sweaters for all 550 children studying at the school. This gesture ensured that the impact of their visit would continue beyond a single day.
When the Plan Changes: Unexpected Challenges
Just when I thought the day had ended successfully, a new challenge emerged. The program coordinator informed me of sudden changes:
Their hotel had been changed at the last moment
Their train had been cancelled
They would now travel to Delhi by bus
This raised several concerns. From my experience, certain things did not add up. For example:
Booking 60 first AC train tickets together is highly unusual
Changing a five-star hotel after one night seemed suspicious
It appeared that there might have been some mismanagement or possibly a scam by their travel agent. However, at that moment, my role was not to investigate but to support.
Another Challenge: Arranging Dinner for 60 People
The group then requested packed dinner boxes for their journey. This was not a simple task. The key concern was food suitability. Many international visitors are not accustomed to spicy Indian food, and I wanted to ensure that the meals were comfortable and safe for them. I reached out to my niece, who runs a kitchen, and explained the situation. She prepared meals specifically tailored for the group : mild, balanced, and suitable for their taste. Coordinating the preparation and delivery of 60 meal boxes on short notice was challenging, but it was completed successfully.
The Final Stretch: Ending on a Positive Note
Despite the unexpected complications, everything was eventually managed. The group departed safely, well-fed, and satisfied. For me, it was a moment of relief and quiet satisfaction.
Reflections: What This Experience Meant to Me
This entire journey was more than just an assignment.
It was:
A test of my planning and problem-solving abilities
A lesson in adaptability
A reminder of the importance of cultural sensitivity
A reaffirmation of the value of grassroots engagement
I started the day feeling nervous about handling such a large group. I ended it with confidence, experience, and gratitude.
Looking Ahead
This experience has opened new possibilities. I look forward to working again with Hasseris Gymnasium in the future and continuing to create meaningful, educational, and responsible travel experiences. Because in the end, what matters is not just showing places but creating understanding.
Real journeys are not about destinations. They are about connections, challenges, and the stories we carry forward.
The Kashi Vishwanath Temple, more than just a place of worship, is the spiritual heart of Varanasi and holds profound significance in Hindu traditions. As one of the twelve revered Jyotirlingas, it symbolizes Lord Shiva as a divine pillar of light. For Hindus worldwide, visiting this temple at least once in their lifetime is a cherished aspiration. Unfortunately, the temple has a tragic history, having been demolished four times by Muslim invaders in the past.
The current temple was constructed in 1780 by the Maratha queen Maharani Ahilyabai Holkar of Indore. In 2020, the Indian government expanded the temple’s area and facilities for visitors by building a new corridor. They also implemented a “Sugam Darshan” ticketing system to streamline the experience. For a fee of ₹400 (Indians) or ₹600 (foreigners), visitors can purchase a ticket that includes darshan, the services of a priest, a small packet of sweets, and (for Indians) a Rudraksha mala or (for foreigners) a scarf. This ticket allows visitors to bypass the general queue
The priest accompanying the visitor assists in obtaining darshan. Tickets for Sugam Darshan can be purchased at the Vishwanath Temple office across the street. While the process is straightforward for Indian visitors, it can be quite complex for foreigners, especially large groups. The temple staff may require individual passport checks and data entry, which can be time-consuming. As a frequent visitor with guests, I often purchase Sugam Darshan tickets to avoid the long queues.
The regular queue can take at least an hour, and during festivals, it can be significantly longer. For some festivals, people begin waiting in line the night before. While Sugam Darshan also has a queue, it’s typically shorter than the regular one. With a Sugam Darshan ticket, darshan can usually be obtained within 20 to 30 minutes. Initially, I used to bring a priest, but I soon realized it was unnecessary. The priest would simply accompany us to the temple and direct us to the Sugam Darshan queue.
During the queue, the priest would often wait nearby, reappearing after our darshan. He would then tie a Kalawa on our wrists, recite mantras, and request payment. The priest’s fee is included in the Sugam Darshan ticket, and the temple office explicitly states that any priest soliciting additional funds should be reported. The priests I encountered claimed to receive only ₹30 per assignment, which is a meager sum. While I occasionally offered them additional cash, they were never satisfied with the amount.
The priests often demanded additional payment, pressuring my guests to give them more money. Their persistent dissatisfaction prompted me to decline their services altogether. They would also guide visitors to the Gyan Wapi well and the large Nandi statue, urging them to make donations. If the donation was deemed insufficient, other priests would join in, subjecting the visitor to emotional manipulation and exorbitant demands. I learned that donations are typically divided between the priest who accompanied the visitor from the office and the one stationed at the Gyan Wapi well.
My tradition emphasizes that faith is a deeply personal matter, and no one has the right to interfere. Hindu philosophy posits that seeking divine guidance through others is akin to trying to see through someone else’s eyes or walk with someone else’s feet—impossible endeavors. Personally, I’ve never been inclined to use priest services, so I stopped engaging them. When purchasing the Sugam Darshan ticket, I informed the office that I didn’t require a priest, and this arrangement worked.
My experience became more spiritual after forgoing priest services. Things were going smoothly until I encountered another form of corruption. Before reaching the main temple, visitors must pass through two or three security checkpoints. At the final checkpoint, priests often wait to intercept visitors. Once visitors have passed through security, these priests approach them to check their tickets. Then, they accompany visitors to the main temple, where the familiar pattern of extortion begins.
My experience became more spiritual after forgoing priest services. Things were going smoothly until I encountered another form of corruption. Before reaching the main temple, visitors must pass through two or three security checkpoints. At the final checkpoint, priests often wait to intercept visitors. Once visitors have passed through security, these priests approach them to check their tickets. Then, they accompany visitors to the main temple, where the familiar pattern of extortion begins.
Although I didn’t bring a priest from the office, I was still stopped by one near the security checkpoint inside the temple. He checked my ticket and insisted on accompanying me. I told him I was happy to go inside without a priest, but he persisted, urging me to take him with my group. I declined, and then I heard other priests telling him to talk directly with my guests. They threatened to ‘manage me’ if my guests agreed to their services. Fortunately, my guests also refused their offer. The priest was asking for a fee of Rs. 100, which was clearly a marketing ploy. We all know what they do inside.
Fortunately, I was able to visit the temple without being accompanied by any priest. However, I’ll be more cautious next time. I’ll inform my guests beforehand about the possibility of priests approaching them, even inside the temple. If there are no accompanying priests, a visit to Kashi Vishwanath is a beautiful spiritual experience. But if any priests do approach, they can ruin the whole experience. Their primary interest seems to be visitors’ money.
If you’re planning to visit Kashi Vishwanath Temple, here are a few tips:
1: For a quick Darshan, walk directly from Godowlia crossing to the temple. Traffic is prohibited between Godowlia and Kashi Vishwanath, but you can easily find wheelchair assistance for Rs. 500. Wheelchair helpers will take you to the temple, wait while you perform the rituals, and then bring you back to Godowlia crossing.
2: Be wary of people wearing ID cards who claim to be authorized by the temple to help visitors. These individuals are often frauds. Avoid talking to them. If you need directions, ask a police officer or local shopkeeper, but never agree to go with them.”
3: The temple office is located just 100 meters before Kashi Vishwanath Temple on the main street. Here, you can purchase Sugam Darshan tickets and deposit your belongings in the free lockers provided by the temple board. The tickets can also be booked online through temple’s website. Please note that you cannot carry any electronics (mobile phones, chargers, batteries, e-watches, etc.), sharp objects, pens, cosmetics, hand sanitizer, tobacco products, or other prohibited items inside the temple. Deposit all of these items in the lockers and keep the key with you.
4: You can enter the temple corridor with your shoes on. Shoe racks are available inside the corridor.
5. As mentioned before, decline the services of priests politely. Prasadam (a box of sweets) and Rudraksha Mala are available at the temple office. Be sure to collect these items before entering the temple. This way, you can offer them to Bhagwan during the Darshan.
6: Avoid buying flowers from the vendors outside the temple. They may not ask for payment upfront, but they will demand exorbitant amounts after your Darshan. If you purchase flowers from these vendors, they will send someone with you inside the temple who will try to extort money from you, similar to the priests. Consider bringing flowers with you from outside or purchasing them from the shops along the street between Godowlia crossing and the temple. There’s even a wholesale flower market about 300 meters from the temple where you can buy flowers in advance.
“7. As I mentioned previously, avoid interacting with any priests inside the temple.
8: There is a separate queue for Sugam Darshan. Ask a police officer to direct you to the correct line.
9: You cannot enter the Garbhgrih. The Garbhgrih is cordoned off, and everyone performs Darshan from the other side of the barrier.
“10. If you have a Sugam Darshan ticket with a Rudraksha, you can give it to the priest at the Garbhgrih and ask him to touch it to the Lingam. You cannot touch the Lingam yourself, but your Rudraksha Mala can, and you can wear it forever.
11: Don’t forget to visit the newly opened Sringar Gauri (Ardhangini of Mahadev) shrine located under the basement of the Gyanwapi mosque. The shrine was always accessible to devotees but was closed for political reasons in the 1990s. It was reopened last year. Be sure to thank Yogi Adityanath for his efforts in reopening the shrine
12. After completing your Darshan of Kashi Vishwanath, explore the various other temples within the corridor. One temple I highly recommend is Annpoorna Mata. The statue of Annpoorna Mata was stolen from the temple nearly a century ago. It was displayed in a museum in Canada for many years before being returned to India in 2021. Don’t confuse this temple with the larger Annpoorna Mata temple located outside the corridor.
13: I also encourage you to explore the entire corridor. Near Ganga Dwar, you’ll find Pashupatinath Temple, locally known as Nepali Mandir. Be sure to visit this temple as well.
14: While many people desire to visit the temple during the various aartis, I recommend against it. Despite the large size of the Vishwanath temple corridor, the Grabhgriha (inner sanctum) is quite small. A bench is placed directly at the entrance of the Grabhgriha, which is only about 3 feet wide and 5 feet tall. Only those who manage to secure a seat on this bench can see the Aarti or the events happening inside the Grabhgriha. The rest of the people are relegated to the back, with limited visibility. Even those standing behind the bench may struggle to see clearly. For a more enjoyable experience, I suggest opting for a regular Sugam Darshan.
15 : Lastly, be cautious about engaging with anyone claiming to be a guide. If you desire a guide, ensure they are authorized by the government. Many individuals may present themselves as temple-authorized guides, but this is false. The temple does not authorize any guides. You’ll often encounter people wearing temple-issued ID cards, which they claim proves their authorization, but this is not true. These cards are typically daily visitor passes issued to locals for a fee. If you’re unsure, ask the guide to show their official government-issued guide license. Avoid engaging with fake guides, as it can significantly impact your experience. You can read about a group of devotees who had a negative experience with a fake guide in this article:
I’m not trying to alarm anyone with these negative comments. Unfortunately, everything I’ve written is true and based on my personal experiences. My only goal is to ensure you have a peaceful and fulfilling spiritual experience at Kashi Vishwanath. By sharing these tips and insights, I hope to help you avoid any potential pitfalls. I hope that the authorities will take steps to address the issues related to certain priests. Hari Om, Peace!
Here is a map to help you reach Kashi Vishwanath Temple Help Desk office from Godowlia Crossing:
Indian Railways is the backbone of India’s transportation system, carrying over 24 million passengers daily. This figure excludes metro systems and other local trains in various Indian cities. India boasts the world’s fourth-largest railway network, operating more than 22,593 trains. It is recognized as one of the largest railway systems globally under single management. Indian Railways offers a diverse range of trains, including superfast express, express, passenger, Rajdhani, Shatabdi, and the semi-high-speed Vande Bharat. Luxury tourist options like the Maharaja Express and heritage Himalayan trains are also available.
Trains offer various seating and sleeping accommodations. Most trains include unreserved general class, non-AC sleeper, 3AC, 2AC, and 1AC classes. While Shatabdi and Vande Bharat currently lack sleeper options, the railway plans to introduce sleeper class Vande Bharat trains soon. It’s also rumored that Vande Bharat trains will replace older Shatabdi trains. Rajdhani Express connects state capitals and exclusively features air-conditioned coaches in 3AC, 2AC, and 1AC classes. Renowned for speed and luxury, Rajdhani Express is a popular choice for inter-state travel.
Shatabdi Express trains offer only chair car seating and connect major cities within shorter distances. Considered fast and luxurious, Shatabdi trains are popular among travelers. The majority of passengers, however, opt for superfast, express, and passenger trains. Indian railways underwent a significant transformation after 2014 under Prime Minister Modi’s leadership. Substantial investments were made to improve railway infrastructure. The implementation of the Clean India campaign led to enhanced sanitation at stations and within trains.
The most noticeable change since Modi came to power is the significantly improved cleanliness of railway stations. There are more comfortable amenities like better waiting areas, cafeterias, drinking water facilities, and overall sanitation. Trains also appear cleaner due to increased and frequent cleaning. A major upgrade is the introduction of vacuum pressure flush toilets in trains. Before 2014, train toilets directly emptied onto the tracks. These improvements have been widely appreciated by the public.
One other major change we’ve noticed is that the railways are shortening the number of non-AC sleeper class coaches. They are replacing these non-AC coaches with AC ones, primarily 3 AC coaches. They have introduced another AC class coach called 3 AC Economy. The 3 AC Economy coach has a capacity of 83 beds, while 3 AC coaches have a capacity of 72 beds. 2 AC coaches have a capacity of 54 beds, and 1 AC coaches offer coupes that can accommodate either 2 or 4 passengers. Non-AC sleeper coaches also have a capacity of 72 beds, and unreserved general class is open to all passengers.
There is usually a waitlist for all train classes. Tickets open four months in advance, and popular trains often sell out immediately. Availability typically dwindles to nothing about a month before departure, unless you try for a Tatkal (urgent) ticket, which opens a day in advance. Tatkal tickets are notoriously difficult to obtain, especially for AC classes, which open at 10 AM. The booking servers immediately become overloaded, and even a minute’s delay can mean losing out. After countless failed attempts, I’ve given up trying.
There are ticket agents who manage to buy tickets from the ticket counter. I’ve heard they bribe ticket counter officers to obtain them. Another major problem with Indian trains is delays. Such delays are so common that 15-20 minutes is hardly considered a delay. People often expect delays of an hour or more and plan their schedules accordingly. While trains are delayed for a day only during the dense fog of winter, there’s no doubt that punctuality has improved since 2014. However, there’s still significant room for improvement.
Indian Railways has been working to improve tracks and increase train speeds. I’ve noticed a significant change in train speeds. Before Mr. Modi took office, the average speed of most trains was around 70 kilometers per hour, but now it’s closer to 100-110. Vande Bharat, Shatabdi, and Rajdhani trains even run at 130-140 kilometers per hour. There has been considerable progress in railways over the past decade, but serious issues remain. Many major railway stations are still in poor condition, and the state of non-AC sleeper and general class coaches is so terrible it’s difficult to describe.
Waitlists for tickets are often so long that it’s very difficult to get a confirmed one. India is also building a Bullet train. The first Bullet train will connect Ahmedabad and Mumbai. Construction began in 2017 and was supposed to be operational by 2022 but was delayed due to the Covid pandemic. I’ve heard it might be operational by the end of 2025. I traveled in both non-AC sleeper and general class once last year, and I had such a horrible experience that it made me question the need for Bullet trains. A few months ago, I wanted to go to Delhi but couldn’t get a ticket from Varanasi on the train I wanted. The same train had seats available from Lucknow, so I booked a 2AC sleeper ticket from there.
I thought I’d simply buy a general class ticket from Varanasi to Lucknow and then upgrade to AC 2 there. I purchased an unreserved general class ticket. The train arrived thirty minutes late, and all non-AC sleeper and general class coaches were packed. As I tried to enter the unreserved general class compartment, the train started moving. I managed to board, but it was a huge mistake. The coach was so crowded I couldn’t even see my feet. Every seat was occupied, and people were sitting on the floor, luggage racks, and even outside the toilet.
There was no space at all to even sit on the floor. It was going to be a five-hour journey, and I had no idea how I would survive that long. Somehow, I managed to squeeze near the toilet and sit on the floor with other people. There were about ten of us crammed into one square meter. Since I was right by the toilet, I had to constantly move whenever someone needed to use it. Eventually, I had to go too, but when I opened the door, it was disgusting. Someone had thrown a plastic bottle in the toilet, it was clogged, and there was urine on the floor. It was impossible to use.
I came back to my spot on the floor, filled with regret for choosing general class. I knew conditions were bad, but I hadn’t realized how truly awful it was since my last general class journey. Despite the ordeal, these experiences can be quite eye-opening. I encountered a situation I never imagined. A family boarded at a stop; they looked like nomads without a permanent home. The family—a mother, father, and three children—was aggressive as soon as they entered. They loudly demanded space and pushed their way towards the toilet, ignoring other areas. It seemed like they already knew where they were headed.
They reached the toilet, entered together, and locked themselves in. Clearly, they saw it as their only available space. When others needed to use the toilet, the family refused to open the door. People started pounding on the door, but the family remained unresponsive and comfortable inside. The frustration grew, and people threatened to break down the door. Finally, the family opened it, appearing annoyed at the disturbance. They acted as if the toilet compartment was their private space. It’s unbelievable that passengers can take over a public toilet on a moving train.
Another bizarre encounter involved two fellow floor-sitters. One man had an open mouth ulcer from cancer, covered with a cloth. Given my immunosuppressive medication and heightened infection risk, being near him was terrifying. I couldn’t imagine his own suffering with cancer, let alone the added stress of this overcrowded, unsanitary environment. Such a journey would undoubtedly be incredibly challenging for someone battling cancer. It highlights the harsh realities faced by many due to economic constraints. Poverty often forces people into unimaginable situations.
There was another guy who wanted to go somewhere in Haryana, but the train only went as far as Delhi. He told me he had started the journey with just Rs. 500 and that the ticket checker had charged him that entire amount to issue a new ticket, leaving him with nothing. I suspected the ticket checker had taken a bribe, but the man showed me a legitimate Rs. 500 receipt for the new ticket. He explained that he would switch trains in Delhi, then take another train part of the way, and finally walk the last 40 kilometers.
I was shocked to discover he didn’t have a ticket for the next leg of his journey from Delhi, nor did he have money for a bus ticket to his final destination. His ordeal was heartbreaking. His innocence made me want to help, at least by buying him a bus ticket. As the train approached Lucknow, I grew increasingly eager to escape the general class compartment. I asked him how much a bus ticket would cost and gave him some money to ensure he wouldn’t have to walk the 40 kilometers.
The train arrived at Lucknow station thirty minutes late. I gave him some money, and he looked puzzled but accepted it gratefully. I changed to the AC 2 class, cleaned up in the washroom (AC class washrooms are usually clean), and went to my seat. That journey still haunts me. It’s heartbreaking to see the appalling condition of general class compartments in Indian trains, where ordinary people endure so much suffering. While some help is available on trains, the state of general class is so dire that it seems insufficient.
I recently had another experience traveling in non-AC class a few days ago. Usually, I book round-trip tickets before my journey, but this time I didn’t have a return ticket to Varanasi. I planned to buy a Tatkal ticket (available a day before departure) but couldn’t get one. As usual, the Indian Railways server crashed, and I couldn’t purchase a ticket. I explored other options from different cities and found a train from Gwalior to Varanasi with available seats for the next day. I booked a ticket on the Bundelkhand Express for the next day.
Gwalior is a four-hour train ride from Delhi, so I looked for a train to Gwalior that evening. All reserved seats were booked, so I decided to try unreserved class again since it was only a short journey. I arrived at Hazrat Nizamuddin railway station, bought a general ticket, and went to the platform. It was August 14th, and we had a holiday on the 15th. The 16th was Friday, and Saturday and Sunday are already officially off days. With another festival on Monday, it meant a long holiday, so many people were traveling back home. The platform was full of people waiting for the train. I thought that if the unreserved class was overcrowded, I would get on a reserved class and pay the penalty.
There were two unreserved coaches, and both became overcrowded as soon as the train arrived at the platform. People were even jumping onto the moving train to secure seats. By the time the train stopped, it was already overcrowded, so I couldn’t board. I went to the reserved non-AC class, hoping to find a spot in a corner. However, many others with general class tickets had the same idea, and the reserved coach was also packed.
It was incredibly difficult to even board the train, but somehow I managed. The train was so crowded that even those with confirmed seats were forced to share them. I managed to find a standing space and later used my backpack as a seat. Everyone said most passengers would get off at Mathura station, but the opposite happened: few got off, and more boarded. Eventually, I couldn’t even sit on my backpack and had to stand the entire time.
Not enough space even to stand
The next stop was Agra, and even more people got on. By this point, it was nearly impossible to stay in the compartment, but I had no other choice. People were sitting on the floor everywhere, and even the reserved seats were occupied by those with unreserved tickets. People trying to move were constantly stepping over others’ feet and luggage. Although the non-AC reserved coaches had open windows, it was so overcrowded that I felt suffocated the entire time.
Finally, the train arrived at Gwalior station, about 30 minutes late. These two recent experiences of traveling in non-AC class have been horrible, literally a nightmare. If there’s any other option, I wouldn’t want to travel in either unreserved or non-AC sleeper class again. It’s not just my story; everyone shares the same opinion about non-AC travel. While there have been improvements recently, many problems still need to be addressed, especially the condition of the unreserved class.
On one hand, we have numerous problems with running existing train services efficiently, while on the other, we’re investing in bullet trains. My recent experience has made me question the need for bullet trains at this point. I understand that such projects enhance a country’s image and attract foreign investment, but shouldn’t we prioritize improving existing services first? I believe focusing on making current trains better would be more appreciated by the Indian public and International community in general.
Why not try to end the waitlist in train tickets first? Why not make trains run on time first? Why not make them litter free first? Why not make the condition of general class coaches better first? Why not replace non-AC with AC coaches first? Why not try to improve the track quality first and make the trains faster? Why not arrange good pantry services available at all the trains first? Why make huge investment on Bullet trains when our other trains are in bad shape?
About 15 years ago, I met an English man who was an expert in building bullet trains. He had been involved in bullet train projects in Japan and other countries. He told me that Indian Railways had invited him to collaborate on a project in the 1970s. Forty years later, he returned to India as a tourist and wanted to see the progress of that project. He visited the Vadodara Railway Headquarters and was shocked to find that no progress had been made in the past four decades.
He said it wasn’t wise for India to build bullet trains while regular trains were in such poor condition. I agree to some extent. I want India to have modern rail infrastructure, but existing trains should be perfected first. I understand the government might be trying to shift lower-middle-class passengers from non-AC sleeper to AC coaches, but can everyone afford it? Do they even want to? And even if they do, are tickets available? Of course not!
I understand many people prefer non-AC travel due to financial constraints, and the government should address this. While Indian Railways passenger trains operate at a loss, subsidized by freight services, it’s unacceptable to neglect the conditions of non-AC coaches. There needs to be a balance between financial viability and passenger comfort.
The only solution I can think of is to replace all non-AC sleeper class coaches with 3AC Economy and all unreserved class coaches with a metro train-type coach. Every train should be air-conditioned and equipped with clean toilets. This would require additional funding, which could be recovered by charging passengers equally or slightly more for those traveling in 3AC, 2AC, or 1AC. Railway stations also need improvement, and the waitlist system for tickets should be eliminated.
With the rising middle class, many Indians now travel by airplane, but the majority still can’t afford it. India’s vast population and immense size contribute to its significant challenges. Solving even small problems requires immense effort. It often feels like there’s a lack of will to address these issues despite visible solutions. Indian bureaucracy is plagued by corruption, laziness, and a focus on personal comfort rather than public service.
Indian train journeys can be delightful if you secure a confirmed seat in AC class. I prefer train travel for overnight journeys. I wish the government would prioritize addressing the core issues affecting ordinary citizens. While I support the development of bullet trains, I believe improving existing train services is equally important. We need safer, more comfortable trains, an end to ticket waitlists, and a reduction in accidents and derailments. India has made significant strides in railway infrastructure over the past decade, and I’m optimistic about future improvements. I hope to see a world-class railway system that surpasses global standards.
In recent years, there has been a noticeable trend of more temples offering VIP darshan tickets. While VIP access has existed for some time, it was previously limited to a selected few temples. However, the number of temples offering this service has grown significantly. Having visited temples across India, I’ve observed that temples in North India often exhibit the most concerning levels of corruption. Even in the absence of a formal ticketing system, one can frequently find priests, intermediaries, agents, or even police officers offering expedited darshan in exchange for a fee.
Only two prominent temples in Varanasi, Sankat Mochan and BHU New Vishwanath JI, seem relatively free from the corruption associated with VIP darshan tickets. Unfortunately, visiting any other well-known temple in Varanasi often involves dealing with harassment. For a peaceful experience, Kashi Vishwanath and Kaal Bhairav temples are particularly challenging. While Kashi Vishwanath can be navigated by avoiding priests and other troublemakers, Kaal Bhairav presents a significantly more complex situation.
My recent visits to Nagreshwar, Somnath, and MahakalJyotirling temples in Gujarat were marred by the implementation of ticketing systems. Nagreshwar Jyotirling, for example, offers tickets that grant access to the Garbhgrih (sanctum sanctorum). For an additional fee, visitors can also avail themselves of special rituals performed by a priest. While darshan at Nagreshwar Jyotirling is technically free for all, access to the Garbhgrih is restricted to those who purchase a ticket.
Shri Nageshwar Jyotirlinga, Gujrat
Somnath Temple offers tickets for the evening sound and light laser show. Mahakal temple in Ujjain also has a VIP ticket system but a commendable feature of Mahakal Temple is its provision of a separate queue for senior citizens, exempting them from VIP darshan fees. A temple should not be treated as a commercial enterprise. It should be a space for personal reflection and meditation, accessible to all without distinction. The concept of VIP status should be entirely absent from such sacred places.
Paying to visit a temple feels akin to entering an amusement park. A sacred space should be open to all without charge. The introduction of VIP tickets has eroded the spiritual essence of temples. Now, anyone with a few hundred rupees can receive preferential treatment, creating a sense of inequality. India seems unable to fully escape its colonial past, as people continue to be judged based on their wealth, social status, or other factors.
The hierarchical system is deeply ingrained in Indian culture. While the Modi government has made commendable efforts to curb VIP culture by restricting the use of red or blue beacons on vehicles, the mentality of privilege persists. I frequently visit Kashi Vishwanath Temple with guests, and it’s disheartening to witness the preferential treatment afforded to politicians, government officials, judges, and police officers. Their vehicles are often parked directly at the temple’s entrance, a privilege denied to ordinary citizens. This demonstrates a continued bias towards those in positions of authority.
Inside the temple, these individuals also receive preferential treatment, gaining access to areas restricted to the general public. While I understand the need for special arrangements for high-ranking officials like the Prime Minister or President, the same privilege is often extended to politicians and individuals with political connections. While the government introduced VIP darshan tickets to streamline the visiting process, it has inadvertently transformed the temple into a place of privilege. While the time of dignitaries like the Prime Minister or President is undoubtedly valuable, it’s unfair to expect others to wait in long queues while these individuals enjoy special treatment.
I believe a VIP darshan facility is necessary, but it should be exclusive to senior citizens and individuals with special abilities. These groups should be considered VIPs and receive preferential treatment not only at temples but also in offices and public spaces. For the general public, an organized online registration system should be implemented. This system would offer different time slots based on availability, allowing visitors to choose their preferred visiting time.
A similar approach should be adopted for all visitors. By determining the maximum number of visitors per hour and offering different time slots, visitors can choose the most convenient option. This will limit the number of people at any given time, reducing wait times. Those who haven’t registered should be directed to a separate queue. Implementing this system would quickly eliminate long queues and enhance the spiritual experience for visitors, especially if the temple were to offer free entry
I visit Churches, Mosques, Buddhist temples, and SikhGurudwaras, but I’ve never encountered a VIP ticket system. While these places of worship may face their own challenges, they haven’t resorted to commercializing their sacred spaces. Unfortunately, the commercialization of temple visits is a prevalent issue in Hindu temples only. The presence of priests and middlemen seeking financial gain, combined with the VIP ticket system, further complicates the experience for devotees.
My Western guests have shared with me that many people have stopped attending churches due to their commercialization and politicization. Priests in these churches often sought to control people’s minds, promising them eternal salvation in exchange for monetary donations. Reports of churches selling certificates for heaven further highlight this disturbing trend. While Hindu temples have historically avoided such practices, there are signs of a concerning shift. Hindu temples are not merely places for rituals or priestly control. They are spaces for self-discovery, introspection, and spiritual growth. They offer opportunities for peace and inner awakening
“I hope that authorities will reconsider the current state of Hindu temples and allow them to serve as true places of self-discovery, introspection, and spiritual growth. If the system remains unchanged, it’s only a matter of time before people lose their devotion to these temples, mirroring the decline of churches. I personally know many individuals who have stopped visiting temples due to overcrowding, VIP tickets, and the exploitative practices of priests and middlemen. I sincerely hope that this trend will reverse, and temples will regain their ancient glory.
Finding any category of visa to any developed nation has always been a huge problem for us Indians. In fact once I had applied for an American tourist visa and it was also denied because they thought that my economical relations with India was not strong enough to prove that I will be coming back after the trip and it happened only 2-3 years ago. This time I got an opportunity to visit Europe. I was invited to Hungary by a friend of mine, Attila, who started an education program for poor kids in Varanasi with my help. Other than Hungary Attila had planned a trip to Slovakia and Austria as well. I did not need to get separate visa for all three different countries because they are all part of Schengen countries and only one visa for Schengen area was enough for me.
I had so many invitation letters sent by my American friends when they wanted to invite me to the US and all of those letters were written on just plain paper but they had provided their residence and income proof with a covering letter stating that they will be taking care of me while I will be in the US but still my visa was denied. Attila did something different. He went to concerned government office in Budapest and wrote an invitation letter through them and sent it to me. The letter looked very professional, it had signature of Attila and some government officer. Other than this it had some basic information about Attila and me also.
I went to Delhi with all the supporting documents, in fact I carried whatever I had. All the certificates, residence proof, income proof and other documents. Now Hungarian embassy also works with VFS for visa document verification which was not the case only until a few months ago. So I went to VFS office instead of Hungarian embassy to apply for my visa. It was kind of confusing place but luckily I found it. The office was located at International Business Center next to Nehru Place metro station. This building had several different VFS offices working for different countries.
For popular destinations they had different rooms but for a place like Hungary, France, Italy, Switzerland they had only different counters in one room. I went to the counter for Hungary and as I was expecting there were not many people in the line because not many people go to Hungary. In fact Hungarian counter was working for France:) Anyways, the staffs were helpful. They checked all of my documents, charged me the visa fee, VFS service fee and that’s all. But they did not have any information about when I will be called for the interview. They just asked me to go back to Varanasi and wait for the phone call.
I asked him to just to give me a clue and said that it was jut not possible at all for him to make any guess. It could take any time up to 15 days. I decided to stay somewhere close to Delhi hence went traveling to Haridwar, Rishikesh and Dehradoon. I was expecting to get a call within next two-three days because Hungarian embassy doesn’t process so many visa applications. But I was not right at all, they called me on the 6th day after applying and asked me to come to the Hungarian embassy a week after which was on the 12 day after applying for visa.
Another interesting thing was that they asked me to bring the evidence of contract which I did not understand. They were asking me to bring photographs of Attila working with me, traveling in India, doing anything…they just wanted to see the proof of my relations with him. I had so many pics so that was not an issue at all. I returned back to Varanasi stayed here for a few days and then went back to Delhi again for interview. I arrived at the embassy on time but the counselor was late by 20 minutes. The counselor was just like the counselor I had met at the American embassy two years ago- she was nothing but a robot.
She would ask me questions and write about it on a piece of paper, then ask another questions, that’s all. She asked me for the pics but did not even look at it. It seemed like she was the busiest person in the world. She just did not want to talk with me. haha. To be honest American counselor was more like trying to read my mind, he was playing with my answer but this lady was only interested in asking questions and writing down my answers. Her questions were very interesting. The best one I liked was if I knew the last name of Attila and his wife. Luckily I knew their last name so it was no problem. After all these questions she showed interest in keeping my original documents for verification.
She took my income tax return document along with tour guide training certificate. She told me that I will be informed once they have made any decision. I got a call by VFS after a week or so that my passport was ready at the VFS center in New Delhi. But I was already in Varanasi by this time so sent an authorization letter to my brother to collect the passport on my behalf. He collected the passport and saw that visa was approved. They issued visa for Schengen countries which meant visa for 26 countries. Nothing was so complicated but I won’t say that anything was easy at all.
I had to go to Delhi at first and then nobody knew how long would it take for interview after applying for visa at the VFS, I was just wandering around here and there spending all of my money, and when they called me for the interview it was after a week. Anyways, I am not really upset with anything but I think such things could be easily avoided if they want. They just need to book an appointment right away for the interview or take maximum of one day because the passport and application is sent the same day to the embassy from VFS office. If they could have informed me the date of the interview even the next day then I would have saved at least Rs. 25,000 which I spent just traveling here and there near to Delhi.
A few days ago, I traveled from Varanasi to Ratlam by train to attend a wedding, which meant a journey of over 24 hours. I take the train all the time, but I usually avoid trips longer than 13 or 14 hours. This time, however, I had no other option. The person getting married booked my ticket, and since we were traveling in a group, it was going to be a fun journey anyway. Indian trains have several classes, such asGeneral Class (no reserved seat), Non-AC Sleeper, 3AC, 2AC, and 1AC. I usually prefer 3AC as it’s the most comfortable class at the cheapest price, but my ticket this time was for the Non-AC Sleeper class.
The journey from Varanasi to Ratlam was uneventful, and to be honest, I never got bored because I was with my friends. The return journey, though, was quite an experience. When our train arrived at the Ratlam station, we found our coach door was locked from the inside, and there were people sleeping on our seats! We asked them to open the door, but they all pretended not to hear us. We finally had to enter our coach through another one. When we asked the people to leave our seats, they simply refused to listen. All of them had wait-listed tickets, which means their seats weren’t confirmed.
We started by requesting them politely, then began shouting, and it finally escalated into a full-on fight. After 45 minutes of pleading, shouting, fighting, and what felt like a war, we finally got our seats! I had traveled in the Non-AC Sleeper class several times before, but this journey was unique because I saw something I had never seen in a train. In the Non-AC Sleeper class, anyone is allowed to enter, so all kinds of services are offered by unauthorized people. You’ll see people selling chai (tea), others selling books, and some begging… but this time, I saw snakes in the train.
I saw a group of snake charmers showing snakes to people and asking for money. People were offering them money because snakes are associated with Lord Shiva and are considered holy in Hinduism. I was truly surprised but also amused. It seemed so strange to me—snakes in the train and no one to stop them? Anyway, I was able to film it. Enjoy!
Hotel Haifa is located near Assi Ghat in Varanasi. They are recommended on several online travel forums and have a good reputation in the market, which is why they are usually full. I also used to recommend this hotel, but I was unaware of their strange business policy – they do not allow tourist guides inside. This came to light when an American university student group, staying at Hotel Haifa, invited me to meet them. We were sitting in the hotel’s restaurant, talking, when the owner, Mr. Ravi Mishra, suddenly appeared to introduce himself to the group.
After a brief conversation with them, he turned to me and asked how I had come there. I explained that the group had invited me because they wanted to talk with me. Hearing this, he became upset and told me clearly: “Listen, I want to make this clear to you – I do not allow guides and outsiders to enter my hotel.” I was shocked. He repeated that tourist guides are not allowed to meet clients inside his hotel and asked me not to come again. After speaking with me, he told the same thing to the group in front of me. They all looked at me with surprised faces and later apologized for what had happened.
This was the first time in my life that someone had insulted me so directly. I felt both shocked and guilty, and we ended the meeting immediately. Later, I spoke to a few people who had previously stayed at Hotel Haifa, and one of them told me: “The restaurant staff was eager to please, but I felt slightly intimidated by the management’s attitude. They promote their own guides, money-changing, and travel agent services, which explains their behavior with you. As an American traveling alone, I liked having one trusted person I could count on, but they seem to want to be the guest’s only resource, or push their own network of touts.”
Hearing this made things clearer. It seems the hotel does not want locals or independent guides to interact with their guests, possibly to keep control over all services and ensure the clients depend only on them. But to me, this feels unfair and deeply problematic. I could not help but compare it to the signs from British colonial times that read “Dogs and Indians not allowed.”That was the early 1900s, yet here in the 21st century, in an independent India with its own government, I experienced something that felt very similar.
Do you really think such a hotel deserves support? Personally, I will no longer recommend Hotel Haifa, and I have decided not to work with anyone who chooses to stay there
I noticed that there were more working women in Nepal than in India. Most of the shops were run by women, and Nepali women seemed to be in better condition than Indian women. Nepal appeared to be more progressive in terms of women’s rights compared to India. Women were traveling alone, going to offices, running shops, and even driving auto rickshaws. They seemed more friendly with men, which looked really cool to me. I was happy to see it. I saw many alcohol shops run by women. I had never seen anything like that anywhere in India. Once, I came across an alcohol shop with a woman owner, and I decided to talk to her. I began by asking about the alcohol, and once we became friendly, I asked her about her life.
I asked her if she felt safe sitting alone at an alcohol shop and dealing with male customers who might be drunk. She told me that managing the business was just like any other male member of her family managing a business; there was no difference, so it wasn’t a problem for her. I inquired whether people in society minded women working at alcohol shops, and she said that Nepali society is very progressive regarding equal rights for women. When I asked if she had ever been to India, she replied that she had never visited but had seen India on TV. In reality, she didn’t seem excited about visiting India.
I told her that it was nearly impossible to find women selling alcohol in India and that there was a lower percentage of working women there. She said she was very well aware of the situation for women in India. She mentioned that many Indian families live in Nepal and do not allow their women to work. When I asked her what Nepali people thought of this situation, she candidly said that they think Indians are backward. I was surprised to hear this, but it is true that we are much more backward than Nepal in terms of women’s rights and equality.
The nature in Nepal was stunning. One could easily see that it is still untouched. There were beautiful thick jungles, clear rivers, fewer industries, fewer people, less traffic, and many mountains—it was just amazing. I really enjoyed the natural beauty in Nepal. I also noticed that I saw only five large factories during my entire bus ride from Sonauli to Kathmandu. In fact, two of them were Indian factories, which is nice because it means less pollution. However, this also means fewer jobs and more poverty.
Poverty in Nepal was striking. There were so many family houses along the Sonauli-Kathmandu highway, and I saw people just sitting or talking, seemingly without any work. I had never seen so many young people just hanging around and passing time. Many kids were selling water bottles and snacks on the road. Nepal has been suffering from political instability for years, which seems to be the main reason for the poverty. I don’t know if there are other reasons, but Nepalis do not seem happy with their political system.
Finally, we arrived in Kathmandu by 8 PM, and it was still raining. I had read about a neighborhood called Thamel, which is full of hotels. I wanted to stay there. I asked Babu to ask some locals for directions, but he said Nepali people are often not helpful and might not give the right directions. He suggested that I go to any shop run by an Indian and ask for directions to Thamel. We went to a paan shop, bought a few things, and fortunately, the owner was kind enough to give us the correct directions. It took us about 10 minutes of walking, and after asking a few more people, we finally arrived.
We reached Thamel, which was bustling with hotels; in fact, it is the most popular neighborhood in Nepal for backpackers. We checked several hotels, but their prices seemed too steep. Babu mentioned that we could easily find a hotel room for 500 NR, but none of them wanted to charge us less than 1000 NR. Eventually, we found a place called Annapurna Hotel, where they initially wanted to charge us 800 NR per night. I told them that I was a government-approved tour guide in India and usually receive discounts. They agreed to give me a room for 500 NR.
The hotel seemed nice at first, but later we realized that the pillow covers and bed sheets were used, the cable connection wasn’t working properly, and the telephone was dead. We complained and were promised that everything would be fixed by the next morning, but that morning never came before we left. In any case, I wasn’t there to enjoy luxury, watch TV, or make phone calls, so I didn’t mind too much. We went out for dinner, but most of the shops were closed by 8:30 PM. We finally found an open restaurant and had our dinner there.
I had read several articles about nightlife in Nepal, including dance bars and massage centers. Many articles claimed that the nightlife was safe, while others described it as crazy and dangerous. Several articles mentioned how people spent a few hours at a nightclub, had a few beers and dinner, and ended up paying Rs. 40,000-50,000 for misbehavior. Some articles talked about how 14-15-year-olds are involved in the sex industry and work as pimps. I was curious about what was going on and decided we should visit at least one nightclub while in Kathmandu.
While wandering in Thamel, I noticed many massage parlors. As we passed one shop with a sign for massage services, I pointed it out to Babu. Suddenly, a boy who looked about 15 approached me and asked what I was looking at. I told him I was just observing the advertisements, but he insisted I was looking for something else, something special. I assured him I was just browsing. He asked again if I needed a special service, and I replied that I did not.
We walked away, but the boy kept following us, asking if we needed a girl. He offered young, beautiful girls at very low prices. He wasn’t alone; there were many pimps around watching tourists. Nevertheless, I managed to return to my hotel safely. The next day, we worked for a while, explored, and did some shopping. It was a nice experience, although I really missed vegetarian Indian food since it seemed to be meat everywhere. On the plus side, drinks were readily available, so I enjoyed trying different kinds of alcohol.
I wanted to use an ATM in Kathmandu but was concerned about international transaction fees. However, Babu informed me that a few Indian banks, like the State Bank of India and Punjab National Bank, have ATMs in Kathmandu. I found a State Bank of India ATM near Darbar Square, used it, and didn’t pay any transaction fees. I would recommend anyone with an Indian bank card to look for Indian bank ATMs in Kathmandu. Phone calls to India were also very cheap; I paid only Rs. 1 per minute.
Since we were interested in visiting a nightclub in Kathmandu, we gathered information online. Fortunately, I met a guy at the NGO where I was supposed to work who was a male prostitute. Who could provide better information about nightlife than him? I asked him about it, and he advised against visiting nightclubs in Kathmandu, stating they are not safe for tourists. He echoed what I had read online, so we decided not to visit any nightclubs.
We visited a few temples, markets, and participated in Kathmandu Gay Pride. Eventually, my time in Kathmandu came to an end, and we needed to head home. Babu informed me that there were overnight buses from Kathmandu to Sonauli until 10 PM. We arrived at the bus station around 8 PM, but all the buses had already left. They told us the last bus was at 7 PM. So we had dinner, stayed at a hotel near the bus station, and took an early morning bus to Sonauli, followed by another bus from Sonauli to Varanasi. It was a successful journey full of learning, and I plan to return to Kathmandu sometime for a longer stay.
I applied for my US visa a few days ago, but the process wasn’t as easy as I had expected. Some things went smoothly, but there were a few parts I really didn’t like. First of all, I had to deposit the visa fee. The good thing was that the US Embassy in India had arranged for the visa fee to be deposited at HDFC Bank branches in several cities. So, I just went to my local HDFC bank in Varanasi with my passport and deposited the fee, which was about Rs. 6,700. They told me I could use the receipt only after 24 hours, since it takes them that long to upload it into their system. Still, I thought it was convenient that I could handle this step locally.
After depositing the fee, I went to the US Embassy website to schedule my visa interview, but it redirected me to the VFS website. I had to fill out the DS-160 form, and that turned out to be a real struggle. The website kept disconnecting, and every time the connection failed, I had to start over. Even the website itself warned applicants to save every page before moving forward, which clearly meant they were aware of this problem. It took me two full days and at least 6–7 attempts before I finally managed to complete and submit the form online.
The most frustrating part came afterward, when I tried to book my visa interview appointment. For several days, I kept trying multiple times a day, but the website always showed the same message: “No date available for interview. Please try again after 24 hours.” After 4 or 5 days of this, I wrote to VFS about the issue, but their reply didn’t address my problem at all. It seemed more like a canned response they probably send to many applicants with different questions.
Finally, I decided to call VFS directly, and their answer really surprised me. They told me that their website only works properly around 8:00 in the morning, so I should try booking my appointment then. The next morning, I logged in at 8:00 AM, and sure enough, the system worked. I was able to successfully book my visa interview. It wasn’t a terrible experience overall, but I certainly didn’t expect something like this from US government services. Later, I explained the whole issue to one of my trip sponsors, and he suggested that I should write to the US Embassy in India to let them know about it. He was confident that the Embassy probably wasn’t aware of such a glitch. Still, whenever I think about this, it leaves me with a different impression of US government services than I had before.
