Tag Archives: music

Josh Massad’s World Through Music

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I’m working with a musician named Josh Massad on a project called “World Through Music,” which focuses on teaching music and other subjects through music. Josh travels globally, teaching music to children in various regions. In the U.S., he introduces American kids to African and Indian music. In Africa, he teaches Indian and American music to African kids, and currently, in India, he’s teaching African, American, and Asian music to children in Varanasi. About a month ago, Josh contacted me to see if I would be interested in collaborating on this project.

Josh with village kids

The project intrigued me, so I agreed to assist him. My role involves organizing his performances at schools throughout Varanasi. To give Josh and his project broad exposure, I arranged for him to perform at a variety of schools, including city schools, village schools, private schools, government schools, play schools, and schools run by NGOs. In total, we planned around 50 performances over 25 days, with 25 performances at village schools where children come from very poor families, 10 at NGO-run training centers for girls, 10 at city schools, and about 5 at schools run by NGOs.

Josh teaching Kanjira

One of the performances is scheduled at a school for children of sex workers in Varanasi. These children often face difficulties gaining admission to traditional schools due to a lack of residential proof and documentation about their parents. An NGO in Varanasi has started a school specifically for these children, and we will be working with them as well. Additionally, we’ve organized performances with children from my educational program and with daytime child laborers in Mehdiganj, where Lok Samiti runs evening classes for them.

Dancing with a kid

Josh carries a map and various instruments from around the world. He starts by discussing geography, teaching about the seven continents and the countries within them. He then shows these locations on a map and introduces the instruments, explaining where each one originates. It was surprising to see that many village kids had little knowledge of geography; some didn’t even know which continent India is on or could name its states. I hope Josh’s lessons will spark their curiosity and expand their knowledge.

Josh teaching map

After introducing his instruments, Josh plays them for the kids and teaches them African songs. One song, in particular, is a favorite: “Fanga Alafia, Ashe Ashe,” a welcome song from Africa. The kids love singing it and joining in with Josh. He also teaches various clapping styles and occasionally introduces basic yoga techniques. The project is progressing well, and seeing the children’s enjoyment makes me happy. However, a few teachers have questioned the relevance of teaching African songs, expressing doubt about their impact.

showing an Indonesian instrument

I don’t expect the children to master all of Josh’s instruments or geography in a single day, but I am confident that his performances will ignite an interest in world geography and music. If they glance at a map even once at home, I’ll consider the project a success. Josh is planning to make a documentary about his work next year and wants me to organize the details. He is also considering starting a mobile school in India and again hopes I can help with the arrangements. He envisions bringing musicians from various places to travel with him and teach music and geography. It sounds incredibly exciting, and I’m looking forward to being part of it.

Kids also love to play the instruments

San Francisco guests at home

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I hosted a couple from San Francisco at my guest house for three weeks. They arrived in Varanasi five weeks ago and initially stayed at a guest house near Assi Ghat for two weeks. Unfortunately, they were uncomfortable there because the bed in their room was not to their liking. They learned about my guest house through Megan, one of my guests, whom they met at a café. Megan brought them to my place, and they enjoyed it so much that they decided to spend the rest of their time in Varanasi with us. Both of them are psychologists from San Francisco.

They were eager to learn Hindi and tabla while in Varanasi. I introduced them to the Indian classical music school next door, where Uncle Sam was impressed and decided to take tabla lessons. Binit, the Hindi teacher, taught them the language. They showed a strong interest in social work, having already been involved with Bal Ashram before arriving. I also took them to Lok Samiti to show them the organization’s work, and they were deeply impressed. They even asked Nandlal Master, the president of Lok Samiti, if they could assist with his efforts.

Uncle Sam and Auntie Mar were wonderful guests. Even though their stay was only three weeks, we developed a strong bond, and I miss them now. Uncle Sam kindly gave me a netbook, which will be incredibly useful for me during power cuts and while traveling.

Music in Islam

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I made a lot of new friends while staying in Gwalior for tour guide training, and two of them were Muslims. One of them, with whom I shared an apartment, is a doctoral student from JNU. He comes from a very small village in Bihar’s Sitamarhi district. He completed his schooling in Sitamarhi, then moved to Aligarh Muslim University for his B.A., and is now pursuing his Ph.D. at JNU. He works as a Spanish escort and earns a good income. He has a deep passion for music, and a substantial portion of his computer hard drive is filled with music files.

He played music constantly, and I noticed a large music system in his hostel room at JNU. He is set to marry in December, and he and his brother, who also lives in JNU, were discussing how to arrange the music for the wedding. They wanted a band for the wedding parade and music for the reception, but Islam forbids it, and his family and neighbors are very strict followers of Islamic traditions. He told me that in his village, playing any kind of music is forbidden. If someone is caught playing music, the villagers would yell at them and stop the music immediately. If he were to play music, people would criticize him for engaging in such a “bad” practice despite his education and Ph.D. Music is a serious issue in his village.

I listened to him and his brother discuss this for over an hour, and they couldn’t come up with a solution for including music at the wedding. I suggested that change often happens in society and perhaps this could be an opportunity for him to bring about change, but he felt it was nearly impossible to change deeply ingrained traditions in his community. I’ve never attended a Muslim wedding myself, but I’ve seen a few from the outside and noticed that they did include music. He explained that rules are enforced by influential people, and if they break them, it’s overlooked.

However, if ordinary people break these rules, it causes problems. He said that while wealthy Muslims can enjoy music, dances, and alcohol, the general Muslim population is restricted from these pleasures. When I asked how ordinary people view the rich Muslims who break these rules, he said they are seen as being out of touch with their community. Music is respected in many cultures around the world. In Hinduism, for example, Saraswati is the goddess of music, and people perform rituals with their musical instruments. It’s hard for me to imagine a wedding without music. Hindu weddings are lively, with plenty of music and dancing.

I’ve also heard that Christian weddings can be somewhat subdued, but I’m sure they include music. Music is enjoyable and even has proven health benefits according to scientific research. I respect people’s beliefs, but this issue is difficult for me to grasp. Many Mughal emperors, like Akbar, were great patrons of music. Tansen, one of the Nine Jewels of Akbar’s court, was a renowned musician. I conducted research by discussing the topic with Muslims and exploring online resources to determine Islam’s stance on music. To my surprise, I discovered that Islam indeed considers music to be haram and sinful. It seems like anything that makes the living creatures happy is prohibited in Islam but this rule does apply on the rich as said by my friend.

Guide training program – week 5

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I’ve completed five weeks of training in Gwalior, and now only one more week of classroom sessions remains before we head out for the tour. This past week was quite engaging. We covered a range of topics including Indian Buddhism, Indian archaeology and rock painting, conservation, Kailash Mansarovar, Ayurveda, the Taj Mahal, Indian classical music, vocal and dance, virtual reality in tourism, and travel legislation. Among these, the classes on Indian Buddhism and the Taj Mahal were the highlights, while the sessions on conservation and Indian classical music were less enjoyable.

The conservation class was particularly challenging. The lecturer spoke at an incredibly fast pace for two continuous hours, covering slide after slide without much opportunity for interaction or questions. He even insisted that we use the restroom before the class began and kept the door locked to avoid disruptions. It was overwhelming and left little room for engagement or clarification. Similarly, the Indian classical music, vocal, and dance class was a bit of a letdown. While the performances were entertaining—featuring live music and dance—the lecture itself was poorly structured.

We were introduced to complex concepts and ragas without sufficient foundational knowledge, making it difficult to follow and understand. On the other hand, the class on Indian Buddhism was one of the best I’ve experienced. The lecturer, a professor of Buddhism from Delhi University, brought a unique perspective. Although he was initially scheduled to talk about Indian Buddhism, he quickly shifted focus to broader topics like Indian politics, social issues, and personal insights. His engaging discussion included fascinating tidbits, such as the fact that over 40% of heart attacks in the US and Canada occur on Mondays due to work pressure. His lecture was both informative and entertaining, and his candidness made it particularly enjoyable.

Our upcoming tour schedule is now finalized. The classroom sessions at the Gwalior center will conclude on the 18th, and we’ll travel to Agra the evening of the same day. Our training in Agra will take place on the 19th and 20th, with a day off on the 21st. We’ll then proceed to Jaipur for training on the 22nd and 23rd, followed by another day off on the 24th. Our final training sessions will be held in Delhi on the 25th and 26th. During this tour, we’ll need to arrange our own lodging and meals, but the institute will provide transportation and bring in experts for our training.

Guide training program – week 4

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The fourth week of training is now complete, with just two more weeks to go before our tour of Delhi, Agra, and Jaipur, followed by fieldwork in Benares. This week was also quite engaging, featuring lectures on various topics including the travel industry in India, Indian art, Varanasi, temples, Indo-Islamic architecture, cultural differences, epigraphy and numismatics, the temples of Bateshwar, Indian classical music, and tourism in Himachal Pradesh. Among these, I found the lectures on epigraphy and numismatics, the temples of Bateshwar, and tourism in Himachal Pradesh particularly fascinating.

**Epigraphy and Numismatics:**

The lecture on epigraphy and numismatics was both enlightening and intriguing. We delved into the study of inscriptions and coins, which provided valuable insights into India’s historical and cultural evolution. Understanding these aspects can greatly enhance our appreciation of India’s rich heritage.

Nandan in Bramhi (the oldest script)

**Temples of Bateshwar:**

The presentation by Mr. Mohammad K.K., the Superintendent Archaeologist at ASI, was truly remarkable. He shared a compelling slideshow of his work in Muraina, Madhya Pradesh, where he and his team uncovered and reconstructed a group of over 200 temples that had been buried underground for over a thousand years due to an earthquake. The area, once controlled by dangerous Naxalites, was finally accessible thanks to the efforts of Mr. K.K. and his team, who collaborated with locals and even met with the Naxalites to gain their permission. The dedication and meticulous work involved in reconstructing these temples using both original and new materials were awe-inspiring. While this may not directly relate to our tour guiding profession, Mr. K.K.’s passion and commitment to his work were truly impressive.

This is how Bateshwar temples were found

**Tourism in Himachal Pradesh:**

The lecture on tourism in Himachal Pradesh was another highlight. It provided an overview of the region’s tourism potential, highlighting its natural beauty and cultural significance. This topic is particularly relevant as it offers insights into how diverse destinations in India can be promoted and appreciated.

**Indian Classical Music:**

On the other hand, the lecture on Indian classical music was challenging. The professor’s approach was rather advanced, expecting participants to sing and engage with complex concepts without covering the basics. This was reminiscent of the previous week’s astrology lecture, where the content was also quite specialized. It might have been more effective if foundational concepts were introduced first.

**Indo-Islamic Architecture:**

The lecture on Indo-Islamic architecture was delivered by an ASI expert and included a surprising and somewhat contentious topic: the ban of foreign escorts at Indian monuments. According to the lecturer, foreign escorts often bypass local guides and do not bring tourist groups to local shops, which affects the livelihood of local guides who rely on commissions and tips. This issue highlights the economic impact of tourism practices and the importance of supporting local communities.

Overall, this week has been rich in diverse content, offering both inspiring and challenging experiences. I’m looking forward to applying what I’ve learned during the upcoming tour and fieldwork in Benares.

Tabla lessons in Varanasi

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A student named Allen Roda from the University of New York arrived at my guest house on the 12th. He is conducting research on Tabla making, a topic that seems to have been explored very little before. Allen plans to write a comprehensive study covering all aspects of Tabla production, including the origins of the skin, the crafting process, the source of the wood, and more. He had already made some contacts in Varanasi before his arrival. I thought it would be beneficial for him to meet Mr. Deobrat Mishra, so I introduced them. Allen mentioned that he greatly appreciated Mr. Mishra’s insights.

I also wanted to introduce Allen to Mr. Praveen Uddhav, a senior lecturer of Tabla at BHU. By coincidence, Mr. Mishra had also recommended that Allen meet Mr. Uddhav. We visited Mr. Uddhav, and during our meeting, Mr. Uddhav expressed some concern about Allen’s interactions with other Tabla makers in Varanasi. He introduced us to an Irish visitor named Steve, who had recently been defrauded by a tout.

Steve had come to Varanasi to study Tabla and hoped to enroll in an M.Mus. program at BHU. He met a man named Siddharth, who told Steve that he needed to buy various instruments, even though he was only interested in learning Tabla. Steve believed Siddharth and ended up purchasing 30-40 different instruments worth $23,000. This included not only traditional instruments but also Western drums and others. After the purchase, Siddharth stopped meeting with Steve.

When Steve visited BHU to apply for admission, he met Mr. Uddhav and explained his situation. Mr. Uddhav informed him that he only needed a pair of Tabla, costing around $100, to start learning. Realizing he had been swindled, Steve filed an FIR against Siddharth. The police arrested Siddharth’s father, who was not in the city at the time. Siddharth’s father returned Rs. 4,00,000 ($8,000) to Steve and promised to pay the remaining amount soon. I felt deeply sorry for Steve, but such incidents are not uncommon in Varanasi.

This might explain Mr. Uddhav’s reluctance to let Allen meet too many new people. However, I believe it’s beneficial for Allen to network widely for his research. I am confident that Allen will be more cautious and won’t spend even $23 without proper verification. During our visit, we also saw Mr. Uddhav’s 8-year-old daughter playing the Tabla remarkably well. Mr. Uddhav mentioned that she could produce all the different sounds and just needs to improve her finger speed to become as accomplished as other renowned players.

Allen managed to meet at least fifteen new people, which is excellent for his research. He is leaving on the 18th but plans to return in June for an extended stay of one year to continue his research. He intends to bring his wife, Nikki, who works for the Federal Reserve Bank. Nikki is looking to volunteer in Varanasi and found an organization called Cashpor India, which is a microfinance trust providing small loans to impoverished individuals. I think this organization will be a great fit for Nikki’s skills and interests.

Music classes in Varanasi

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A guy from California stayed at my place for a week. He came here to explore music and Sanskrit classes and to get an overall feel for the city. He asked me for recommendations on music classes, and I suggested he visit Pandit Shivnath Mishra, who lives next door. It was amusing to discover that he had already met Pandit Mishra and his son in California. He had played some tabla with them and even received an offer to perform with them abroad as a tabla player.

Josh was thrilled about this opportunity. He expressed his eagerness to join Mr. Mishra’s ensemble. During his stay, he also visited Bunti’s school, where he played tabla and taught African music to the students. Bunti mentioned that everyone at the school really enjoyed the music. Josh was also interested in visiting Bal Ashram, an Aghor monastery. I took him there, where we encountered a British doctor who was providing free eye check-ups to the underprivileged.

I was impressed by his dedication; the monastery mentioned that he comes to Varanasi every year for a few months to work pro bono. Josh wanted to see the monastery as a potential place for his friends to stay and volunteer. I suggested he also check out Bhagwan Avdhoot Ram Ashram, which is the mother ashram, but he didn’t seem very interested. The mother ashram has had conflicts with Bal Ashram in the past due to some financial misconduct by Bal Ashram’s employees. I have faith in the integrity of the mother ashram.

Josh said he would visit both ashrams when he returns to Varanasi, and he plans to come back in the first week of January.

Music classes in Varanasi

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I hosted a tenant from Montreal for a month at my guest house. His name was Will Eizlini, but my family gave him the Indian name “Willu.” His friend Bijay had reached out to me through a Lonely Planet Forum post where someone had recommended my name. Although I still don’t know who made the recommendation, I was delighted to have a long-term tenant. Willu was interested in learning Tabla while he was in Varanasi but had no leads on a teacher, so I suggested Pandit Shivnath Mishra’s school. Although the school is renowned for its Sitar instruction, they also offer Tabla classes.

Willu works as a web developer and can work from anywhere with an Internet connection. When he asked if I had Internet access, I realized that while I had Internet in my room, it wasn’t available in the guest rooms. I had always wanted to extend Internet access throughout the house, and Willu’s arrival presented the perfect opportunity. Initially, I considered buying a Wi-Fi modem, but my service provider advised that Wi-Fi wasn’t reliable in India. Instead, I purchased a router and ran cables to all the rooms. I’m grateful to Willu for prompting me to enhance the Internet setup in my home.

Willu was pleased to be able to work remotely for his Canadian company from my guest house. It was impressive to see him earning over CAD $30 per hour while traveling. His job seemed ideal for a traveler. Willu attended Tabla classes at Shivnath Mishra’s school for three days but was dissatisfied because his Tabla teacher didn’t speak English. While his teacher didn’t need to be fluent in English, Willu hoped for someone who could effectively communicate the lessons.

During this time, there was a live performance featuring Pandit Shivnath Mishra, his son Pandit Deobrat Mishra, and Fazal Qureshi (the brother of Zakir Hussain) at Diamond Hotel, Varanasi. I was invited by Pandit Deobrat Mishra, but Willu had to pay Rs. 500 to attend. The show was spectacular, and I was particularly impressed by Fazal Qureshi’s extraordinary speed on the Tabla. Although the Sitar performance didn’t captivate me, the Tabla was mesmerizing; I had never seen anyone play with such speed before.

At the event, Willu met several Canadians who were also studying Tabla in Varanasi. They recommended Mr. Pravin Uddhav, a professor of Indian classical music at BHU (Benares Hindu University). Following their advice, we visited Mr. Uddhav’s residence on the BHU campus the next day. When Willu returned home, he was thrilled to have finally found a suitable teacher. He praised Pravin Uddhav as an excellent Tabla player with good English skills that facilitated understanding.

Willu decided to discontinue his classes with Pandit Deobrat Mishra and studied with Pravin Uddhav for the remainder of his stay. After a month in Varanasi, Willu flew to Chennai to attend a live performance by another instrument teacher (whose name I don’t recall). Despite wanting to stay longer in Varanasi, he left to catch this performance.