Tag Archives: Aghori

Behavior of ghosts in villages

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I have always been intrigued by people who believe they are affected by ghosts and who go to great lengths, such as visiting babas or exorcists, to rid themselves of these supposed spirits. I’ve wanted to learn more from individuals who claim to have been haunted by ghosts or who have had ghostly encounters. Recently, I had the opportunity to meet a few people who feel possessed by ghosts and believe these entities are ruining their lives. A few days ago, I was in my village for my cousin’s wedding. I used to discuss ghost stories with him and my other cousin, and they shared some fascinating tales about ghosts in their village.

They mentioned a place where people who believe they are possessed go to seek relief. After the wedding, I asked my cousin to take me to this place, which was about 5 kilometers from the village. We navigated narrow paths, observed the picturesque village life, and finally arrived at the location where people come to be freed from ghosts. It was the tomb of a Muslim baba who had passed away many years ago. Locals believe that this baba had supernatural powers to combat ghosts and that he can still help even after death.

There were two tombs: a small one and a large one. We visited the small tomb first. I was told that Thursday is a special day for this place, attracting more visitors, although I’m not sure why Thursday is significant. Since it was Friday, I hoped there wouldn’t be many people. However, I was shocked to find about 30 families who had set up temporary shelters there. I noticed that these shelters lacked basic amenities like stoves or beds; people cooked outside and slept under the open sky. The temporary shelters were used mainly in case of rain. As I walked around the tomb, I encountered several distressing sights. I saw three people chained to a tree.

I approached one of them and sat nearby. Another man sitting there invited me to join him, and fortunately, he began explaining what was happening. He described his great distress due to ghosts. He explained that he had come there with his brother, who was also chained to a tree. The brother used to work as a tailor in Mumbai, while his brother worked in a factory in Ludhiana. One day, his sister-in-law called, reporting that her husband was behaving strangely and would not come home. He was exhibiting odd behaviors, making strange noises, and so on.

His condition seemed to suggest possession by ghosts to his brother, who instructed his sister-in-law to bring him to their village immediately. This man left his job in Mumbai to care for his brother. When I asked how he knew his brother was possessed, he claimed to have supernatural powers and experience with such matters. Upon arriving in the village, they took the possessed person to the tomb. The person resisted staying there and would often try to escape, which led them to chain him to the tree. He said his brother was haunted by several types of ghosts: one was an Aghori, another a Chamar, and others of different castes.

He explained that he inferred this from his brother’s actions, such as drinking his own urine (indicative of an Aghori) and spitting in his food or tearing his clothes (which he associated with a Chamar’s behavior). The final confirmation came from his conversation with the baba, whose tomb was there. I was puzzled when he mentioned speaking with the baba, as I knew the baba had died years ago. I asked him again, and he indicated the tomb, leading me to believe he was referring to one of the people present. My cousin clarified that he was talking about the baba whose tomb was there. According to him, after praying at the tomb, the baba communicates through the people’s tongues.

The baba never appears in person; instead, he allegedly possesses individuals and speaks through them. It was astonishing to hear such beliefs. The idea that the baba speaks through possessed individuals was difficult to grasp, but I continued to listen. I asked if he had ever been attacked by ghosts himself, and he loudly claimed that ghosts had continuously tried to attack him. However, because he also possessed some supernatural abilities, they could not harm him. He recounted an incident where, while riding his bicycle, he fell and broke his head after being struck by a ghost.

When I asked if he saw the ghost, he said no, but he believed it was a ghost due to the nature of the incident, which felt different from a mere accident. We then returned to his brother, and the affected person’s wife arrived with their six-month-old child, questioning her husband about who had inflicted the ghost upon him. I heard the affected person mention a name, but his wife disagreed, arguing that the person named was not capable of causing such problems. She insisted that he must provide the correct name and said they would keep him chained until he did. It seemed they had a specific name in mind and wanted it confirmed through the affected person’s responses. The affected person’s brother claimed the ghost was making him lie.

I asked the brother if his sibling felt any better since arriving at the tomb. He confidently stated that the baba’s help had significantly improved his brother’s condition after two months of confinement. It was distressing to think of a young man, around 26-27 years old, being locked up for two months. The brother also lamented the financial and time losses due to the ghost. He had left his job two months ago and was now financially depleted, yet he was determined to remain and fight the ghost. I was deeply troubled by the destruction of lives due to such beliefs. The sight of the six-month-old baby was particularly heartbreaking.

I suggested that they should consider seeing a doctor, but the brother proudly insisted that if his brother had a mental problem, he would be open to seeing a doctor. However, he believed that the problem was indeed ghostly and not a mental issue, as confirmed by the baba. It is hard to believe that such beliefs persist in the 21st century. I was even more saddened by the presence of numerous children who had been living there with their families for months. I wondered how these experiences might affect their future, as they might grow up to seek out exorcists or visit tombs themselves.

After speaking with the affected person, I walked around and saw two others also chained to trees. I wanted to speak with their families but found only a few children playing nearby. Many others were present, making strange noises, some talking to trees, walls, or even rubbing their bodies on the ground and screaming. It was disheartening to see so many people wasting their lives in this way. I decided to visit the second tomb, about 2 kilometers away from the first. The situation there was similar but seemed more organized, with some convenience stores nearby.

I witnessed an intriguing incident where a person, seemingly possessed, fainted, and his family made him drink Coca-Cola. After drinking, he seemed rejuvenated and resumed his activities, which humorously suggested that even ghosts might have a taste for Coca-Cola. As it was getting late and I needed to return to Varanasi, I left the place feeling both shocked and saddened. After returning to Benares, I spoke with several people, many of whom also believed in ghosts. Some explained that there are 8.4 million forms of life, including ghosts, and that everyone becomes a ghost at some point. Others described ghosts as having both good and bad varieties, with the bad ones causing trouble.

One friend told me a story about a haunted village where ghosts supposedly urinate or defecate on food left out overnight and create disturbances while the resident sleeps. Another story involved a ghost who smokes beedis in a locked room, with people providing beedis when the ghost knocks. They believe the beedis are consumed by the ghost despite the room being locked. I read an article about an English ghost in Bihar, believed to be a British soldier who wanders his cemetery. People offer him toast, coffee, and cigarettes, and if they forget, he reportedly harms passersby. The ghost is described as appearing as a British soldier with a sword.

Some people believe that ghosts arise from unnatural deaths or improper death rites, which seems unfair to me. I spoke with Aghoris, who suggested that while ghosts might exist, they usually do not bother others unless provoked. I prefer this perspective over the fear of ghosts. I often think about ghosts due to their frequent mention in my society. While many are afraid of ghosts, I am more concerned about street dogs or police behavior at night. My friends have mentioned the concept of “flashbacks,” where one might see or hear things that aren’t actually there.

This phenomenon, which I’ve experienced myself, can be mistaken for ghostly activity. If it persists, seeing a doctor is advisable, though many attribute it to ghosts and seek out exorcists or babas, often at great personal cost. I am considering creating a video documenting individuals who believed they were possessed by ghosts, only to find relief through medical treatment, in hopes of helping others reconsider their approach. I’m unsure if this idea will be effective, but I would like to pursue it if my resources permit.

Diwali 2008

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Yesterday was Diwali, and I had a fantastic time celebrating. I had invited a few Couchsurfers to join the festivities—two students from the US and two travelers from the UK. They arrived at my home around 6 o’clock, and we spent some time sharing our travel experiences in India. Later, my Uncle Udo joined us. My mother started the evening with a puja, and then we decorated the entire house with candles. Typically, I don’t buy or light fireworks, but this year I had plenty because some friends had brought them.

We went up to the roof to set off the crackers. It was the first time in fifteen years that I had fired crackers myself. I’m not a fan of fireworks because they pollute the atmosphere. The smoke from the crackers was noticeable, and I prefer decorating with candles, enjoying good food, and hosting dinner parties. Many people in Varanasi gamble during Diwali night, and although I gambled for the first time last year at Bunti’s family place, I couldn’t make it this year despite their invitation. Diwali is particularly significant for Aghoris, who perform a special puja at a cremation ground between midnight and 1 a.m.

I was keen to witness this but missed it again this year because the person who was supposed to accompany me didn’t call. I waited for him, but by the time it was past 1 o’clock, it was too late to go. After firing the crackers, we had a delicious dinner with plenty of sweets—it was a delightful evening. I had heard warnings about foreign girls facing threats in Varanasi after dark, but I hadn’t taken them seriously, thinking they were exaggerated. However, when Abbie and Emily, the US students, expressed concern about walking back to their guesthouse alone, I accompanied them. This experience made me realize that the guidebooks were right.

As we walked, people commented on the foreign girls. Some offered them crackers to light, others complimented their looks, and a few tried to harass them. It was overwhelming and eye-opening. I had never encountered such behavior around the Assi neighborhood before; perhaps it is more prevalent in the downtown area. Despite the unwanted attention, they eventually reached their guesthouse safely, and I returned home.

Italian guest visits Aghori society

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I worked with an Italian named Giona Peduzzi, who initially contacted me through Couchsurfing to arrange a meeting for a drink. After a series of emails discussing his tour of India, he asked me to plan his visit to Varanasi. Giona lives in Rome and works for Channel 5, Italy’s largest private TV channel, as a show designer and writer for two Saturday night shows. Giona arrived in Varanasi on August 6th and stayed until August 9th. I arranged his accommodation at my guest house.

During his visit, we explored various sites including Mother Teresa’s Home, an Aghor monastery, Mathas (places where people reside while awaiting death), Sarnath, Tulsi Manas Temple, Sankat Mochan Temple (the monkey temple), BHU, Durga Temple (in Ram Nagar), and we also met Lali Baba. Giona was particularly impressed by the people he met. One memorable visit was to Machali Bandar Math, where we spoke with a Sadhu who had been residing there for over 30 years, waiting for his death. Giona was astonished by this dedication, though it was less surprising to me given my previous experiences working with Sophia, an anthropology student from the University of Berlin.

Lali Baba left a significant impression on Giona. He found Lali Baba to be the most fascinating character he had ever encountered, especially captivated by his elaborate attire for the evening Aarti, his garlands and skulls, and even seeing Lali Baba using a computer to chat. We also visited Mother Teresa’s Home. Although I have mixed feelings about going there—feeling both compelled to help but finding it emotionally challenging due to the many mentally and physically ill individuals—I still find it important to visit. I suggested providing a television for the patients’ entertainment, but the Nun declined, explaining that they had never used one before and preferred to maintain their current approach.

At the Aghor monastery, Giona was surprised by their Guinness World Record certificate for treating the most leprosy patients in the world. I have a great appreciation for this place and visit their hospital every time I am in town. Giona expressed interest in visiting Bodh Gaya for a day and then heading to Mumbai. He wanted to experience a film or TV serial shooting in Mumbai. I reached out to Yogesh, a production manager in Bollywood, who agreed to show Giona around Film City. I hope Giona enjoys his time in Mumbai with Yogesh.

I and Giona

Who are Aghoris

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I first learned about the Aghori society while working with MTV Italy as a local assistant. My role was to find unique characters and schedule interviews for the crew. They were particularly interested in unconventional Sadhus and Aghoris—those with dreadlocks, beards, and unconventional appearances. I had just three days to arrange five days of shooting, so I had to work quickly. I visited numerous monasteries and met many babas, sadhus, and Aghoris across Varanasi.

I went to major Aghor monasteries such as Kina Ram Aghor Peeth, Bhagwan Avdhoot Ram Ashram, Baba Harihar Ram Ashram, and Baba Anil Ram Ashram, among others. I also visited both of Varanasi’s cremation grounds, Manikarnika Ghat and Harishchandra Ghat, in search of Aghoris, which proved successful. Through this, I encountered some fascinating Aghoris and gained insight into their society. Aghori society is part of the Hindu tradition but follows a distinct philosophy. They worship the same deities as other Hindus, though their rituals can be quite different.

For instance, while most Hindus celebrate Diwali by worshipping Lakshmi (the goddess of wealth), cleaning their homes, and lighting lamps, Aghoris may instead spend the night at cremation grounds. They meditate there, seeking to enhance their mantras, gain supernatural powers, or make contact with spirits, which they believe will assist them in the future. This stark contrast highlights how Aghoris and mainstream Hindus differ in their practices. Aghoris have a deep connection to cremation grounds at every level of their religious practice.

In their monasteries, you will always find a place where wood from funeral pyres is continually burned. Genuine Aghoris apply the ash from these fires to their foreheads and navels, believing it provides protection and helps heal diseases. When I spoke to Aghoris about the significance of this ash, they told me it’s largely a matter of faith. They believe that if one has faith in the ash, it can be more effective than medicine. However, if someone lacks belief, it could cause worry and even illness due to the association with cremation. The Aghoris I met had a profound faith in the ash. They applied it daily and carried some with them when traveling. One person shared that when he had a  mysterious illness that doctors couldn’t cure, applying the ash helped him recover.

Unfortunately, some fake Aghoris exploit this practice to attract followers or intimidate others, using the ash to create a sense of fear or awe.

Research on death in Varanasi

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A German girl named Sophia reached out to me on Couchsurfing, inquiring about Hindi classes in Varanasi. At the time, I had a tenant named Dave from the US who was learning Hindi with Professor Virendra Singh, so I introduced Sophia to him. Sophia was conducting anthropology research for the University of Berlin and was interested in the lives of people who come to Varanasi to die. I took her to a place where Sadhus come to spend their final days and translated the interview for her. Sophia was thrilled to understand the people, thanks to my translations.

She asked if I could work as her translator for the next few days. I was excited about the opportunity but was concerned about my prior commitment to Amanda, another student from Yale University, who was scheduled to visit Varanasi soon for research related to Coca-Cola. We agreed that I would work with Sophia first, and if Amanda arrived, I would assist her. We visited three monasteries: Machali Bandar Math, Mumukshu Bhavan, and Kashi Labh Mukti Bhavan. All these monasteries are for individuals who come to Varanasi to die, but they differ slightly in their focus.

Machali Bandar Math only permits Sadhus and Sanyasis, Mumukshu Bhavan accommodates both Sadhus and non-Sadhus, including families, and Kashi Mukti Bhavan is a short-stay place for the seriously ill. People at Kashi Mukti Bhavan do not stay long-term. During our visit to Mumukshu Bhavan, we encountered a woman who had been there for 30 years, waiting for her death. She had come to Varanasi with her husband, who died after two years, but she continued to wait. Despite her lengthy wait, she was cheerful and felt that dying in Varanasi was her ultimate wish. She prayed daily for her death to come in Varanasi, believing it was the best possible end.

We also visited two Aghor monasteries: Kina Ram and Bhagwan Avdhoot Ram Ashram. Sophia was particularly interested in the ash used by Aghoris. We learned that they use it for protection against diseases and other issues, believing its efficacy depends on faith. They carry the ash with them during travel to use daily, even when away from the monastery. At Kina Ram Monastery, there is a fire that has been burning continuously for hundreds of years. They use wood from cremation sites for this fire, a practice rooted in religious significance, though I didn’t fully understand why. Cremation sites hold great importance for Aghoris, who perform many rituals there, including special pujas during Diwali.

The second monastery, Bhagwan Avdhoot Ram Ashram, is listed in The Guinness Book of World Records for treating the highest number of leprosy patients. They operate an Ayurvedic hospital for leprosy, a school for street children, a library, a research center, and a press that publishes Aghora books. Founded in 1962 by Aghor guru Bhagwan Avdhoot Ram, the monastery also organizes group weddings to avoid the wastefulness of traditional ceremonies. Attending one of these weddings was enlightening, as Aghor followers’ philosophy differs from mainstream Hinduism, particularly in rejecting casteism.

I was surprised to see a Kshatriya serving as the priest, and when I asked, they explained that anyone who studies religion or Sanskrit can become a Brahmin. I was impressed by their inclusiveness. We also visited Mother Teresa’s home in Varanasi to interview people. The environment was warm and compassionate. Although run by Catholics, the institution allows residents to practice their own religions and provides both vegetarian and non-vegetarian meals. I admired the dedication of the nuns there.

We interviewed some Doams working at the cremation sites. They explained that babies, pregnant women, leprosy patients, Sadhus, and those bitten by snakes are not cremated but are instead immersed in the river. Doams often drink and smoke, and they even asked Sophia to buy them whiskey. They said that drinking helps them cope with the difficulties of their job, as cremating bodies is emotionally taxing. They also shared the belief behind why people come to Varanasi to die.

According to them, when Shiva left Varanasi, he made Vishnu promise to whisper the name of Ram into the ears of those dying in Varanasi. Hearing Ram’s name at the moment of death is believed to lead to liberation. They explained that although Shiva now resides on Kailash, Varanasi remains on his trident, reinforcing its significance. We finally visited Lali Baba, a notable Aghori baba. Sophia was eager to spend time alone at his monastery to observe his daily routine. She was thrilled to meet Lali Baba, remarking that despite his commercial nature, it was a worthwhile experience. I also found Lali Baba fascinating.

Soon after, Amanda arrived, and I had to switch my focus to work with her.

Work with MTV Italy

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My brother, who was working as an Italian interpreter for MTV Italy, asked me to assist them in Benares and Allahabad. They were working on a documentary titled *Camminando*, a joint production between MTV Italy and LA7 (Channel 7). They were in Lucknow when they contacted me, and their next stop was Allahabad, where they wanted to film Patalpuri Temple and the ghats, but they didn’t have any contacts or a clear plan for the shoot. I was tasked with selecting characters and scheduling interviews in both Benares and Allahabad, with only four days to complete the work.

I reached out to Mr. Shubhranshu Chowdhary, who had been my boss during the CBC documentary, to see if he knew anyone in Allahabad. He provided me with the contact information of a journalist in Benares, who then connected me with another journalist in Allahabad. The following day, I traveled to Allahabad and met the journalist. We visited all the locations MTV wanted to film, including the Patalpuri Temple, which is located within Akbar’s fort and is now a military base. Despite our attempts to contact the army officers, the process seemed too lengthy given our tight schedule. I decided to leave this part to the journalist and returned to Benares to complete the remaining tasks.

In Benares, MTV wanted to film Sadhus, Babas, and Aghoris. I first visited the Kina Ram Monastery, the headquarters of the Aghor society. However, I was unable to obtain permission to shoot there because previous TV channels had filmed there without proper authorization, resulting in unauthorized footage being included in their broadcasts. I learned that Aghoris are often misunderstood; they do not consume dead body flesh or engage in other extreme practices as rumored. Although they were very open and informative, they did not allow us to film.

I then visited several other Aghor monasteries, all of which shared similar views about the society’s practices, emphasizing that Aghoris no longer partake in such rituals. I also explored Bhagwan Avdhoot Ram Ashram on the other side of the Ganga, which was quite interesting. The ashram operates a hospital recognized in the Guinness World Records for treating the most leprosy patients, as well as a school for street children, a library, and a press. Although the ashram was initially reluctant to allow MTV to film due to previous issues with the Kina Ram Monastery, I managed to persuade them to permit the shoot.

I visited other monasteries that were open to filming, including one with several Italian Aghoris. Despite their limited knowledge about Aghora, MTV was keen to include them. MTV was particularly interested in finding an Aghori who would eat dead body flesh on camera. This was a challenge because, according to Aghoris, such practices had been abandoned over 400 years ago by Baba Kina Ram and were now prohibited. However, I managed to locate an Aghori who agreed to eat dead body flesh. He planned to perform a special puja called Mahabhog once a year, using dead body flesh, and was willing to conduct an additional puja specifically for MTV.

I was shocked by his willingness to engage in such practices for money. He even provided a list of materials he needed, including two bottles of whisky, and assured me he would arrange for the dead body. He explained that when bodies are cremated, some are retrieved by the Doams, who work at the funeral place, and this would be used for his puja. MTV Italy was thrilled to have found someone willing to perform this ritual, but their Rome office ultimately prohibited the footage of the ritual due to ethical concerns. After completing the filming in Allahabad, MTV Italy arrived in Benares.

We filmed all the planned characters, including an intriguing Baba known as Lali Baba, who wore over 350 necklaces weighing more than 40 kg and engaged in various unique practices. MTV considered Lali Baba to be the standout character of the documentary. We also filmed at the Mother Teresa Home. When the shoot concluded, MTV Italy left Varanasi. Unfortunately, they were among the most disorganized teams I have ever worked with. They lacked a clear schedule, had no knowledge of what to do in Benares until just days before their arrival, and were unfamiliar with the characters they wanted to film.

Later, my brother informed me that the entire crew was arrested in Khajuraho for filming inside temples where cameras were prohibited. They had entered the temple by scaling the back wall and spent over eight hours in jail. Their lack of organization was astonishing.