Monthly Archives: January 2008

Pollution in Ganga

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I started writing this post after hearing a news report on India TV news channel about the alarming prediction that the Ganga could dry up within the next 30 years. It leaves me wondering what is happening to us as a nation. Are we simply waiting for this vital river to become a relic of the past? The Ganga holds immense sacred significance for Hindus and world in general. Only someone deeply devoted to this river can truly understand its spiritual importance, and even then, words may fall short. Every day, more than 50,000 people bathe in the Ganga in Varanasi.

Pilgrims from all over India come to Varanasi to take a sacred dip. Yet, the water that was once revered for its purity is now severely polluted. While the Ganga remains sacred in a spiritual sense, the quality of its water has deteriorated significantly. My own mother, a deeply religious woman, has stopped bathing in the river. She still visits the Ganga and touches its waters, but she no longer drinks it. Hindus traditionally use Ganga water to bathe their deities, believing it to be the purest water on earth, but my mother has even stopped bringing Ganga water to our home temple.

When I discuss this issue with others, the common response is that the government and certain NGOs, tasked with water purification programs, are to blame for the Ganga’s current state. I frequently walk along the ghats of Varanasi and watch people bathing in the river. While I have also bathed in the Ganga, I can no longer bring myself to do so. The water is now murky and black. As a tour guide, I often take foreigners on boat rides. At Shivala Ghat, one can observe a small sewage discharge, with the water near it thick and foamy.

Shivala Ghat is not the only location where sewage mixes with the river. There are more than seven major discharge points and countless smaller ones. We have the resources and technology to clean this river—not only the Ganga but all our rivers. We are investing heavily in projects like the Commonwealth Games, infrastructure development, and special economic zones. We have modern subways and advanced facilities. Cleaning the Ganga should not be beyond our capability. Yet, it seems we are falling short. I am left questioning what our government is doing and why this critical issue remains unresolved.

I sleep when I die

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An American retired Marine officer stayed at my guest house for a week. He had contacted me through Craigslist three months before his arrival in Varanasi. He was in the process of writing a novel and wanted to spend a year in India, but this visit was just a scouting trip to find a potential place to stay in the future. I was thrilled to host him, intrigued by his background and eager to learn more about his experiences as a Marine. I was hired for two days as his tour guide, and I took him around Benares. He quickly fell in love with the city, finding it reminiscent of his childhood in New York.

He noted that New York also had yellow streetlights about 60-65 years ago, similar to those in Benares today. After my tour duties were complete, he began exploring the city on his own. Despite being 70 years old, he was remarkably energetic. I remember one instance when I found him sleeping, and he told me, “I sleep when I die.” It’s a quote I’ll never forget. However, he had a bit of trouble with the local cuisine. He began indulging in street food, which unfortunately made him quite ill.

On one occasion, he ate over a kilogram of yogurt and 12 bananas at once, leading to severe sickness. His blood pressure and sugar levels soared, and he developed a cough and cold. I had to take him to a doctor, who attributed his condition to the excessive yogurt and bananas. By the end of the week, he left Benares, which was a relief for me. Despite the health scare, it was a memorable experience hosting such an interesting guest.

Indian Salary

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An American contacted me to help book his train ticket from Varanasi to Agra. He had tried to buy the ticket online but found it too complicated. He suggested meeting for dinner in Varanasi, and we arranged to meet at his hotel near Assi Ghat. His hotel was quite nice. When I arrived, I noticed a 50-year-old man talking to two Western women. He was explaining that he couldn’t find a train ticket and had contacted someone in Varanasi, offering dinner in exchange for help with his booking. I realized he was referring to me and approached him, confirming that he was Christopher.

I think he initially believed I had helped him with the ticket in exchange for a meal at a nice restaurant, which seemed to be his impression. Although he was relieved to have his ticket, he then asked which restaurant I wanted to dine at. I hadn’t considered his offer seriously, as I assumed he just wanted to chat. I generally prefer not to eat out, so I declined his offer. Christopher mentioned that he had informed his hotel that he wouldn’t be eating there, so they wouldn’t prepare his meal. To resolve this, I took him to a restaurant where he had his dinner. During our meal, we discussed the Coca-Cola issue again.

He remained unconvinced that Coke was at fault, believing instead that the problems lay with the people and the Indian government. The next day, Christopher asked if I would be his tour guide. I accepted the offer, and we spent the day exploring various temples and wandering around the city. He was particularly interested in meeting people, so I arranged for him to meet Lali Baba. Although I believe he was satisfied with my services, the payment was surprisingly low. Despite being one of the wealthiest people I had worked with—he lived in an upper East Side Manhattan apartment where the average salary is $320,000 per year—he paid me only $10 for a full day of work.

I didn’t see the money until later, and when I did, it turned out to be just $10. It reminded me of what Lane had said: “You don’t need to be rich to spend and poor to save money.” It was quite a humorous moment.