Monthly Archives: August 2024

VIP darshan ticket at Kashi Vishwanath Temple, Varanasi

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The Kashi Vishwanath Temple, more than just a place of worship, is the spiritual heart of Varanasi and holds profound significance in Hindu traditions. As one of the twelve revered Jyotirlingas, it symbolizes Lord Shiva as a divine pillar of light. For Hindus worldwide, visiting this temple at least once in their lifetime is a cherished aspiration. Unfortunately, the temple has a tragic history, having been demolished four times by Muslim invaders in the past.

The current temple was constructed in 1780 by the Maratha queen Maharani Ahilyabai Holkar of Indore. In 2020, the Indian government expanded the temple’s area and facilities for visitors by building a new corridor. They also implemented a “Sugam Darshan” ticketing system to streamline the experience. For a fee of ₹400 (Indians) or ₹600 (foreigners), visitors can purchase a ticket that includes darshan, the services of a priest, a small packet of sweets, and (for Indians) a Rudraksha mala or (for foreigners) a scarf. This ticket allows visitors to bypass the general queue

The priest accompanying the visitor assists in obtaining darshan. Tickets for Sugam Darshan can be purchased at the Vishwanath Temple office across the street. While the process is straightforward for Indian visitors, it can be quite complex for foreigners, especially large groups. The temple staff may require individual passport checks and data entry, which can be time-consuming. As a frequent visitor with guests, I often purchase Sugam Darshan tickets to avoid the long queues.

The regular queue can take at least an hour, and during festivals, it can be significantly longer. For some festivals, people begin waiting in line the night before. While Sugam Darshan also has a queue, it’s typically shorter than the regular one. With a Sugam Darshan ticket, darshan can usually be obtained within 20 to 30 minutes. Initially, I used to bring a priest, but I soon realized it was unnecessary. The priest would simply accompany us to the temple and direct us to the Sugam Darshan queue.

During the queue, the priest would often wait nearby, reappearing after our darshan. He would then tie a Kalawa on our wrists, recite mantras, and request payment. The priest’s fee is included in the Sugam Darshan ticket, and the temple office explicitly states that any priest soliciting additional funds should be reported. The priests I encountered claimed to receive only ₹30 per assignment, which is a meager sum. While I occasionally offered them additional cash, they were never satisfied with the amount.

The priests often demanded additional payment, pressuring my guests to give them more money. Their persistent dissatisfaction prompted me to decline their services altogether. They would also guide visitors to the Gyan Wapi well and the large Nandi statue, urging them to make donations. If the donation was deemed insufficient, other priests would join in, subjecting the visitor to emotional manipulation and exorbitant demands. I learned that donations are typically divided between the priest who accompanied the visitor from the office and the one stationed at the Gyan Wapi well.

My tradition emphasizes that faith is a deeply personal matter, and no one has the right to interfere. Hindu philosophy posits that seeking divine guidance through others is akin to trying to see through someone else’s eyes or walk with someone else’s feet—impossible endeavors. Personally, I’ve never been inclined to use priest services, so I stopped engaging them. When purchasing the Sugam Darshan ticket, I informed the office that I didn’t require a priest, and this arrangement worked.

My experience became more spiritual after forgoing priest services. Things were going smoothly until I encountered another form of corruption. Before reaching the main temple, visitors must pass through two or three security checkpoints. At the final checkpoint, priests often wait to intercept visitors. Once visitors have passed through security, these priests approach them to check their tickets. Then, they accompany visitors to the main temple, where the familiar pattern of extortion begins.

My experience became more spiritual after forgoing priest services. Things were going smoothly until I encountered another form of corruption. Before reaching the main temple, visitors must pass through two or three security checkpoints. At the final checkpoint, priests often wait to intercept visitors. Once visitors have passed through security, these priests approach them to check their tickets. Then, they accompany visitors to the main temple, where the familiar pattern of extortion begins.

Although I didn’t bring a priest from the office, I was still stopped by one near the security checkpoint inside the temple. He checked my ticket and insisted on accompanying me. I told him I was happy to go inside without a priest, but he persisted, urging me to take him with my group. I declined, and then I heard other priests telling him to talk directly with my guests. They threatened to ‘manage me’ if my guests agreed to their services. Fortunately, my guests also refused their offer. The priest was asking for a fee of Rs. 100, which was clearly a marketing ploy. We all know what they do inside.

Fortunately, I was able to visit the temple without being accompanied by any priest. However, I’ll be more cautious next time. I’ll inform my guests beforehand about the possibility of priests approaching them, even inside the temple. If there are no accompanying priests, a visit to Kashi Vishwanath is a beautiful spiritual experience. But if any priests do approach, they can ruin the whole experience. Their primary interest seems to be visitors’ money.

If you’re planning to visit Kashi Vishwanath Temple, here are a few tips:

1: For a quick Darshan, walk directly from Godowlia crossing to the temple. Traffic is prohibited between Godowlia and Kashi Vishwanath, but you can easily find wheelchair assistance for Rs. 500. Wheelchair helpers will take you to the temple, wait while you perform the rituals, and then bring you back to Godowlia crossing.

2: Be wary of people wearing ID cards who claim to be authorized by the temple to help visitors. These individuals are often frauds. Avoid talking to them. If you need directions, ask a police officer or local shopkeeper, but never agree to go with them.”

3: The temple office is located just 100 meters before Kashi Vishwanath Temple on the main street. Here, you can purchase Sugam Darshan tickets and deposit your belongings in the free lockers provided by the temple board. The tickets can also be booked online through temple’s website. Please note that you cannot carry any electronics (mobile phones, chargers, batteries, e-watches, etc.), sharp objects, pens, cosmetics, hand sanitizer, tobacco products, or other prohibited items inside the temple. Deposit all of these items in the lockers and keep the key with you.

4: You can enter the temple corridor with your shoes on. Shoe racks are available inside the corridor.

5. As mentioned before, decline the services of priests politely. Prasadam (a box of sweets) and Rudraksha Mala are available at the temple office. Be sure to collect these items before entering the temple. This way, you can offer them to Bhagwan during the Darshan.

6: Avoid buying flowers from the vendors outside the temple. They may not ask for payment upfront, but they will demand exorbitant amounts after your Darshan. If you purchase flowers from these vendors, they will send someone with you inside the temple who will try to extort money from you, similar to the priests. Consider bringing flowers with you from outside or purchasing them from the shops along the street between Godowlia crossing and the temple. There’s even a wholesale flower market about 300 meters from the temple where you can buy flowers in advance.

“7. As I mentioned previously, avoid interacting with any priests inside the temple.

8: There is a separate queue for Sugam Darshan. Ask a police officer to direct you to the correct line.

9: You cannot enter the Garbhgrih. The Garbhgrih is cordoned off, and everyone performs Darshan from the other side of the barrier.

“10. If you have a Sugam Darshan ticket with a Rudraksha, you can give it to the priest at the Garbhgrih and ask him to touch it to the Lingam. You cannot touch the Lingam yourself, but your Rudraksha Mala can, and you can wear it forever.

11: Don’t forget to visit the newly opened Sringar Gauri (Ardhangini of Mahadev) shrine located under the basement of the Gyanwapi mosque. The shrine was always accessible to devotees but was closed for political reasons in the 1990s. It was reopened last year. Be sure to thank Yogi Adityanath for his efforts in reopening the shrine

12. After completing your Darshan of Kashi Vishwanath, explore the various other temples within the corridor. One temple I highly recommend is Annpoorna Mata. The statue of Annpoorna Mata was stolen from the temple nearly a century ago. It was displayed in a museum in Canada for many years before being returned to India in 2021. Don’t confuse this temple with the larger Annpoorna Mata temple located outside the corridor.

13: I also encourage you to explore the entire corridor. Near Ganga Dwar, you’ll find Pashupatinath Temple, locally known as Nepali Mandir. Be sure to visit this temple as well.

14: While many people desire to visit the temple during the various aartis, I recommend against it. Despite the large size of the Vishwanath temple corridor, the Grabhgriha (inner sanctum) is quite small. A bench is placed directly at the entrance of the Grabhgriha, which is only about 3 feet wide and 5 feet tall. Only those who manage to secure a seat on this bench can see the Aarti or the events happening inside the Grabhgriha. The rest of the people are relegated to the back, with limited visibility. Even those standing behind the bench may struggle to see clearly. For a more enjoyable experience, I suggest opting for a regular Sugam Darshan.

15 : Lastly, be cautious about engaging with anyone claiming to be a guide. If you desire a guide, ensure they are authorized by the government. Many individuals may present themselves as temple-authorized guides, but this is false. The temple does not authorize any guides. You’ll often encounter people wearing temple-issued ID cards, which they claim proves their authorization, but this is not true. These cards are typically daily visitor passes issued to locals for a fee. If you’re unsure, ask the guide to show their official government-issued guide license. Avoid engaging with fake guides, as it can significantly impact your experience. You can read about a group of devotees who had a negative experience with a fake guide in this article:

A man posing as tourist guide fled from Kashi Vishwanath Dham with 17 mobiles and other belongings of a group pilgrims from Tamilnadu. 

I’m not trying to alarm anyone with these negative comments. Unfortunately, everything I’ve written is true and based on my personal experiences. My only goal is to ensure you have a peaceful and fulfilling spiritual experience at Kashi Vishwanath. By sharing these tips and insights, I hope to help you avoid any potential pitfalls. I hope that the authorities will take steps to address the issues related to certain priests. Hari Om, Peace!

Here is a map to help you reach Kashi Vishwanath Temple Help Desk office from Godowlia Crossing:

Organized loot of Indian Pharma Industries, Retailers and the Government

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My liver transplant was performed in November 2020, and I have been on a specific regimen of medication ever since. My body recognizes the new organ as a foreign object, so my immune system could potentially attack it at any time. To prevent this, my doctors have prescribed immunosuppressive medications. I take two different immunosuppressant drugs and a steroid that acts as an anti-rejection medication. These drugs are Tacrolimus, Mycophenolate, and Prednisolone. The most common brand of Mycophenolate worldwide is Cellcept, produced by Roche.

Initially, my doctors prescribed Cellcept, but I experienced side effects including upset stomach and headaches. Consequently, they discontinued it. Since my transplant, I’ve primarily relied on Tacrolimus and Prednisolone. However, during the past four years, I’ve had occasional infections requiring Mycophenolate. While the standard brand is Cellcept, I’ve been taking Mycofit S, produced by the Indian company Intas Pharmaceuticals. Cellcept is available in 500mg and 250mg strengths, whereas Mycofit S comes in 360mg capsules.

Cellcept typically costs around ₹650-700 per strip of 10 tablets, with a print rate of ₹750. Some people report getting even better deals, purchasing it for as low as ₹550. Mycofit-S 360, on the other hand, has a print rate of ₹1,330 per strip of 10 tablets. Given this significant price difference, I’d aim for a substantial discount on Mycofit-S. A 30% discount would bring the price down to around ₹930, which is still higher than Cellcept but more reasonable. However, I’d personally negotiate for a discount closer to 40% to make it more comparable to Cellcept’s price range.

Due to their specialized nature, immunosuppressant medications can be difficult to find. Despite Varanasi having a large medicine market near BHU, I struggled to locate Mycophenolate last year. Eventually, I found a shop that carried Mycofit-S 360 and purchased it for ₹900 after a 30% discount. I was surprised by the price. Considering my previous experience with Cellcept, I anticipated a similar or lower cost for Mycofit-S 360. However, it was nearly twice as expensive.

Given the high print rate of ₹1,330, I initially accepted the ₹900 price without question. However, I had a gut feeling something was amiss. I contacted a friend who had also undergone a transplant and was taking Mycofit-S, but in the 500mg strength. To my surprise, he paid only ₹300 per strip, despite a similar print rate of around ₹1,400. This significant discrepancy between the print rate and the actual selling price was shocking.

My friend explained that these pharmacies often charge regular customers between ₹900 and ₹1000 for Mycofit-S 360. However, they offer significant discounts to repeat customers or those with personal connections. He introduced me to his pharmacy, where I’ve been purchasing Mycofit-S 360 for ₹275 per strip ever since. Incredibly, this pharmacy is located just 50 meters away from the one that initially overcharged me.

Print rate of Mycofit S 360

I purchased Mycofit-S from the new pharmacy for a month until my doctors determined it was no longer necessary. Unfortunately, my liver function tests have been unsatisfactory for the past month, and despite adjusting the medication dosage, my doctors have restarted Mycofit-S 360. I typically buy medications from the ILBS hospital pharmacy in New Delhi. However, to my surprise, they quoted me ₹850 per strip for Mycofit-S 360. ILBS is a semi-private hospital operated by the Delhi state government, where I expected to receive subsidized medicines.

Initially, I considered buying other medications at ILBS and purchasing Mycofit-S 360 in Varanasi upon my return. However, I was concerned about the availability of the drug in Varanasi and my deteriorating health, so I opted to buy it at the ILBS pharmacy for ₹850 per strip. Upon returning to Varanasi, I visited a local pharmacy and was shocked to find the same medication for ₹275 per strip. Questioning the drastic price difference, the shopkeeper claimed it was a coordinated exploitation by pharmaceutical companies, retailers, and the government.

He explained that pharmaceutical companies have free rein to set exorbitant prices, and there’s little to no oversight. They collaborate with retailers to create a deceptive marketing strategy. While companies sell medications at relatively low prices, retailers drastically inflate costs. These retailers can offer substantial discounts while still making enormous profits, keeping customers satisfied. Unsuspecting consumers believe they’re getting a great deal with a 30% discount, unaware that they’ve actually paid four times the reasonable price.

Mycofit S 360

India boasts a massive pharmaceutical industry with a stellar global reputation. However, this sector is also plagued by significant control issues. Contributing over 20% of the world’s pharmaceutical supply and meeting approximately 60% of global vaccine demand, India’s pharma industry is a cornerstone of healthcare. It supplies 40% of generic drugs to the US and a quarter of all medicines in the UK. Given its immense scale, it’s shocking to witness such a lack of oversight. This clearly indicates a substantial failure in government regulation.

It’s impossible to claim the government is oblivious to these unethical practices. They’re fully aware but seemingly indifferent to addressing the issue. Prime Minister Modi launched the Jan Aushadhi Kendra initiative to provide affordable, quality medicines. While offering generic alternatives at reduced costs, these centers unfortunately don’t stock all medications, including immunosuppressants. Had they done so, it would have been a game-changer for patients like me.

Life becomes prohibitively expensive after an organ transplant due to exorbitant medication costs and frequent hospital visits. Patients endure significant financial hardship, a reality that pharmaceutical companies seem to disregard. While pharmacies often overcharge, it’s essential to acknowledge the role of companies in setting inflated prices and the government’s failure to regulate the industry. Every patient I speak with expresses deep concern about the astronomical cost of their medications.

Immunosuppressive medications are a lifelong commitment, and I’ve observed that patients consistently seek ways to reduce costs. They explore different brands and alternatives to manage medication expenses, especially for Mycophenolate, the most expensive drug in the regimen. Exploiting the financial vulnerability of already suffering patients is unconscionable and must be stopped. However, considering the industry’s current practices, immediate hope for change seems elusive.

Do we really need Bullet trains?

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Indian Railways is the backbone of India’s transportation system, carrying over 24 million passengers daily. This figure excludes metro systems and other local trains in various Indian cities. India boasts the world’s fourth-largest railway network, operating more than 22,593 trains. It is recognized as one of the largest railway systems globally under single management. Indian Railways offers a diverse range of trains, including superfast express, express, passenger, Rajdhani, Shatabdi, and the semi-high-speed Vande Bharat. Luxury tourist options like the Maharaja Express and heritage Himalayan trains are also available.

Trains offer various seating and sleeping accommodations. Most trains include unreserved general class, non-AC sleeper, 3AC, 2AC, and 1AC classes. While Shatabdi and Vande Bharat currently lack sleeper options, the railway plans to introduce sleeper class Vande Bharat trains soon. It’s also rumored that Vande Bharat trains will replace older Shatabdi trains. Rajdhani Express connects state capitals and exclusively features air-conditioned coaches in 3AC, 2AC, and 1AC classes. Renowned for speed and luxury, Rajdhani Express is a popular choice for inter-state travel.

Shatabdi Express trains offer only chair car seating and connect major cities within shorter distances. Considered fast and luxurious, Shatabdi trains are popular among travelers. The majority of passengers, however, opt for superfast, express, and passenger trains. Indian railways underwent a significant transformation after 2014 under Prime Minister Modi’s leadership. Substantial investments were made to improve railway infrastructure. The implementation of the Clean India campaign led to enhanced sanitation at stations and within trains.

The most noticeable change since Modi came to power is the significantly improved cleanliness of railway stations. There are more comfortable amenities like better waiting areas, cafeterias, drinking water facilities, and overall sanitation. Trains also appear cleaner due to increased and frequent cleaning. A major upgrade is the introduction of vacuum pressure flush toilets in trains. Before 2014, train toilets directly emptied onto the tracks. These improvements have been widely appreciated by the public.

One other major change we’ve noticed is that the railways are shortening the number of non-AC sleeper class coaches. They are replacing these non-AC coaches with AC ones, primarily 3 AC coaches. They have introduced another AC class coach called 3 AC Economy. The 3 AC Economy coach has a capacity of 83 beds, while 3 AC coaches have a capacity of 72 beds. 2 AC coaches have a capacity of 54 beds, and 1 AC coaches offer coupes that can accommodate either 2 or 4 passengers. Non-AC sleeper coaches also have a capacity of 72 beds, and unreserved general class is open to all passengers.

There is usually a waitlist for all train classes. Tickets open four months in advance, and popular trains often sell out immediately. Availability typically dwindles to nothing about a month before departure, unless you try for a Tatkal (urgent) ticket, which opens a day in advance. Tatkal tickets are notoriously difficult to obtain, especially for AC classes, which open at 10 AM. The booking servers immediately become overloaded, and even a minute’s delay can mean losing out. After countless failed attempts, I’ve given up trying.

There are ticket agents who manage to buy tickets from the ticket counter. I’ve heard they bribe ticket counter officers to obtain them. Another major problem with Indian trains is delays. Such delays are so common that 15-20 minutes is hardly considered a delay. People often expect delays of an hour or more and plan their schedules accordingly. While trains are delayed for a day only during the dense fog of winter, there’s no doubt that punctuality has improved since 2014. However, there’s still significant room for improvement.

Indian Railways has been working to improve tracks and increase train speeds. I’ve noticed a significant change in train speeds. Before Mr. Modi took office, the average speed of most trains was around 70 kilometers per hour, but now it’s closer to 100-110. Vande Bharat, Shatabdi, and Rajdhani trains even run at 130-140 kilometers per hour. There has been considerable progress in railways over the past decade, but serious issues remain. Many major railway stations are still in poor condition, and the state of non-AC sleeper and general class coaches is so terrible it’s difficult to describe.

Waitlists for tickets are often so long that it’s very difficult to get a confirmed one. India is also building a Bullet train. The first Bullet train will connect Ahmedabad and Mumbai. Construction began in 2017 and was supposed to be operational by 2022 but was delayed due to the Covid pandemic. I’ve heard it might be operational by the end of 2025. I traveled in both non-AC sleeper and general class once last year, and I had such a horrible experience that it made me question the need for Bullet trains. A few months ago, I wanted to go to Delhi but couldn’t get a ticket from Varanasi on the train I wanted. The same train had seats available from Lucknow, so I booked a 2AC sleeper ticket from there.

I thought I’d simply buy a general class ticket from Varanasi to Lucknow and then upgrade to AC 2 there. I purchased an unreserved general class ticket. The train arrived thirty minutes late, and all non-AC sleeper and general class coaches were packed. As I tried to enter the unreserved general class compartment, the train started moving. I managed to board, but it was a huge mistake. The coach was so crowded I couldn’t even see my feet. Every seat was occupied, and people were sitting on the floor, luggage racks, and even outside the toilet.

There was no space at all to even sit on the floor. It was going to be a five-hour journey, and I had no idea how I would survive that long. Somehow, I managed to squeeze near the toilet and sit on the floor with other people. There were about ten of us crammed into one square meter. Since I was right by the toilet, I had to constantly move whenever someone needed to use it. Eventually, I had to go too, but when I opened the door, it was disgusting. Someone had thrown a plastic bottle in the toilet, it was clogged, and there was urine on the floor. It was impossible to use.

I came back to my spot on the floor, filled with regret for choosing general class. I knew conditions were bad, but I hadn’t realized how truly awful it was since my last general class journey. Despite the ordeal, these experiences can be quite eye-opening. I encountered a situation I never imagined. A family boarded at a stop; they looked like nomads without a permanent home. The family—a mother, father, and three children—was aggressive as soon as they entered. They loudly demanded space and pushed their way towards the toilet, ignoring other areas. It seemed like they already knew where they were headed.

They reached the toilet, entered together, and locked themselves in. Clearly, they saw it as their only available space. When others needed to use the toilet, the family refused to open the door. People started pounding on the door, but the family remained unresponsive and comfortable inside. The frustration grew, and people threatened to break down the door. Finally, the family opened it, appearing annoyed at the disturbance. They acted as if the toilet compartment was their private space. It’s unbelievable that passengers can take over a public toilet on a moving train.

Another bizarre encounter involved two fellow floor-sitters. One man had an open mouth ulcer from cancer, covered with a cloth. Given my immunosuppressive medication and heightened infection risk, being near him was terrifying. I couldn’t imagine his own suffering with cancer, let alone the added stress of this overcrowded, unsanitary environment. Such a journey would undoubtedly be incredibly challenging for someone battling cancer. It highlights the harsh realities faced by many due to economic constraints. Poverty often forces people into unimaginable situations.

There was another guy who wanted to go somewhere in Haryana, but the train only went as far as Delhi. He told me he had started the journey with just Rs. 500 and that the ticket checker had charged him that entire amount to issue a new ticket, leaving him with nothing. I suspected the ticket checker had taken a bribe, but the man showed me a legitimate Rs. 500 receipt for the new ticket. He explained that he would switch trains in Delhi, then take another train part of the way, and finally walk the last 40 kilometers.

I was shocked to discover he didn’t have a ticket for the next leg of his journey from Delhi, nor did he have money for a bus ticket to his final destination. His ordeal was heartbreaking. His innocence made me want to help, at least by buying him a bus ticket. As the train approached Lucknow, I grew increasingly eager to escape the general class compartment. I asked him how much a bus ticket would cost and gave him some money to ensure he wouldn’t have to walk the 40 kilometers.

The train arrived at Lucknow station thirty minutes late. I gave him some money, and he looked puzzled but accepted it gratefully. I changed to the AC 2 class, cleaned up in the washroom (AC class washrooms are usually clean), and went to my seat. That journey still haunts me. It’s heartbreaking to see the appalling condition of general class compartments in Indian trains, where ordinary people endure so much suffering. While some help is available on trains, the state of general class is so dire that it seems insufficient.

I recently had another experience traveling in non-AC class a few days ago. Usually, I book round-trip tickets before my journey, but this time I didn’t have a return ticket to Varanasi. I planned to buy a Tatkal ticket (available a day before departure) but couldn’t get one. As usual, the Indian Railways server crashed, and I couldn’t purchase a ticket. I explored other options from different cities and found a train from Gwalior to Varanasi with available seats for the next day. I booked a ticket on the Bundelkhand Express for the next day.

Gwalior is a four-hour train ride from Delhi, so I looked for a train to Gwalior that evening. All reserved seats were booked, so I decided to try unreserved class again since it was only a short journey. I arrived at Hazrat Nizamuddin railway station, bought a general ticket, and went to the platform. It was August 14th, and we had a holiday on the 15th. The 16th was Friday, and Saturday and Sunday are already officially off days. With another festival on Monday, it meant a long holiday, so many people were traveling back home. The platform was full of people waiting for the train. I thought that if the unreserved class was overcrowded, I would get on a reserved class and pay the penalty.

There were two unreserved coaches, and both became overcrowded as soon as the train arrived at the platform. People were even jumping onto the moving train to secure seats. By the time the train stopped, it was already overcrowded, so I couldn’t board. I went to the reserved non-AC class, hoping to find a spot in a corner. However, many others with general class tickets had the same idea, and the reserved coach was also packed.

It was incredibly difficult to even board the train, but somehow I managed. The train was so crowded that even those with confirmed seats were forced to share them. I managed to find a standing space and later used my backpack as a seat. Everyone said most passengers would get off at Mathura station, but the opposite happened: few got off, and more boarded. Eventually, I couldn’t even sit on my backpack and had to stand the entire time.

Not enough space even to stand

The next stop was Agra, and even more people got on. By this point, it was nearly impossible to stay in the compartment, but I had no other choice. People were sitting on the floor everywhere, and even the reserved seats were occupied by those with unreserved tickets. People trying to move were constantly stepping over others’ feet and luggage. Although the non-AC reserved coaches had open windows, it was so overcrowded that I felt suffocated the entire time.

Finally, the train arrived at Gwalior station, about 30 minutes late. These two recent experiences of traveling in non-AC class have been horrible, literally a nightmare. If there’s any other option, I wouldn’t want to travel in either unreserved or non-AC sleeper class again. It’s not just my story; everyone shares the same opinion about non-AC travel. While there have been improvements recently, many problems still need to be addressed, especially the condition of the unreserved class.

On one hand, we have numerous problems with running existing train services efficiently, while on the other, we’re investing in bullet trains. My recent experience has made me question the need for bullet trains at this point. I understand that such projects enhance a country’s image and attract foreign investment, but shouldn’t we prioritize improving existing services first? I believe focusing on making current trains better would be more appreciated by the Indian public and International community in general.

Why not try to end the waitlist in train tickets first? Why not make trains run on time first? Why not make them litter free first? Why not make the condition of general class coaches better first? Why not replace non-AC with AC coaches first? Why not try to improve the track quality first and make the trains faster? Why not arrange good pantry services available at all the trains first? Why make huge investment on Bullet trains when our other trains are in bad shape?

About 15 years ago, I met an English man who was an expert in building bullet trains. He had been involved in bullet train projects in Japan and other countries. He told me that Indian Railways had invited him to collaborate on a project in the 1970s. Forty years later, he returned to India as a tourist and wanted to see the progress of that project. He visited the Vadodara Railway Headquarters and was shocked to find that no progress had been made in the past four decades.

He said it wasn’t wise for India to build bullet trains while regular trains were in such poor condition. I agree to some extent. I want India to have modern rail infrastructure, but existing trains should be perfected first. I understand the government might be trying to shift lower-middle-class passengers from non-AC sleeper to AC coaches, but can everyone afford it? Do they even want to? And even if they do, are tickets available? Of course not!

I understand many people prefer non-AC travel due to financial constraints, and the government should address this. While Indian Railways passenger trains operate at a loss, subsidized by freight services, it’s unacceptable to neglect the conditions of non-AC coaches. There needs to be a balance between financial viability and passenger comfort.

The only solution I can think of is to replace all non-AC sleeper class coaches with 3AC Economy and all unreserved class coaches with a metro train-type coach. Every train should be air-conditioned and equipped with clean toilets. This would require additional funding, which could be recovered by charging passengers equally or slightly more for those traveling in 3AC, 2AC, or 1AC. Railway stations also need improvement, and the waitlist system for tickets should be eliminated.

With the rising middle class, many Indians now travel by airplane, but the majority still can’t afford it. India’s vast population and immense size contribute to its significant challenges. Solving even small problems requires immense effort. It often feels like there’s a lack of will to address these issues despite visible solutions. Indian bureaucracy is plagued by corruption, laziness, and a focus on personal comfort rather than public service.

Indian train journeys can be delightful if you secure a confirmed seat in AC class. I prefer train travel for overnight journeys. I wish the government would prioritize addressing the core issues affecting ordinary citizens. While I support the development of bullet trains, I believe improving existing train services is equally important. We need safer, more comfortable trains, an end to ticket waitlists, and a reduction in accidents and derailments. India has made significant strides in railway infrastructure over the past decade, and I’m optimistic about future improvements. I hope to see a world-class railway system that surpasses global standards.