The Kashi Vishwanath Temple, more than just a place of worship, is the spiritual heart of Varanasi and holds profound significance in Hindu traditions. As one of the twelve revered Jyotirlingas, it symbolizes Lord Shiva as a divine pillar of light. For Hindus worldwide, visiting this temple at least once in their lifetime is a cherished aspiration. Unfortunately, the temple has a tragic history, having been demolished four times by Muslim invaders in the past.
The current temple was constructed in 1780 by the Maratha queen Maharani Ahilyabai Holkar of Indore. In 2020, the Indian government expanded the temple’s area and facilities for visitors by building a new corridor. They also implemented a “Sugam Darshan” ticketing system to streamline the experience. For a fee of ₹400 (Indians) or ₹600 (foreigners), visitors can purchase a ticket that includes darshan, the services of a priest, a small packet of sweets, and (for Indians) a Rudraksha mala or (for foreigners) a scarf. This ticket allows visitors to bypass the general queue
The priest accompanying the visitor assists in obtaining darshan. Tickets for Sugam Darshan can be purchased at the Vishwanath Temple office across the street. While the process is straightforward for Indian visitors, it can be quite complex for foreigners, especially large groups. The temple staff may require individual passport checks and data entry, which can be time-consuming. As a frequent visitor with guests, I often purchase Sugam Darshan tickets to avoid the long queues.
The regular queue can take at least an hour, and during festivals, it can be significantly longer. For some festivals, people begin waiting in line the night before. While Sugam Darshan also has a queue, it’s typically shorter than the regular one. With a Sugam Darshan ticket, darshan can usually be obtained within 20 to 30 minutes. Initially, I used to bring a priest, but I soon realized it was unnecessary. The priest would simply accompany us to the temple and direct us to the Sugam Darshan queue.
During the queue, the priest would often wait nearby, reappearing after our darshan. He would then tie a Kalawa on our wrists, recite mantras, and request payment. The priest’s fee is included in the Sugam Darshan ticket, and the temple office explicitly states that any priest soliciting additional funds should be reported. The priests I encountered claimed to receive only ₹30 per assignment, which is a meager sum. While I occasionally offered them additional cash, they were never satisfied with the amount.
The priests often demanded additional payment, pressuring my guests to give them more money. Their persistent dissatisfaction prompted me to decline their services altogether. They would also guide visitors to the Gyan Wapi well and the large Nandi statue, urging them to make donations. If the donation was deemed insufficient, other priests would join in, subjecting the visitor to emotional manipulation and exorbitant demands. I learned that donations are typically divided between the priest who accompanied the visitor from the office and the one stationed at the Gyan Wapi well.
My tradition emphasizes that faith is a deeply personal matter, and no one has the right to interfere. Hindu philosophy posits that seeking divine guidance through others is akin to trying to see through someone else’s eyes or walk with someone else’s feet—impossible endeavors. Personally, I’ve never been inclined to use priest services, so I stopped engaging them. When purchasing the Sugam Darshan ticket, I informed the office that I didn’t require a priest, and this arrangement worked.
My experience became more spiritual after forgoing priest services. Things were going smoothly until I encountered another form of corruption. Before reaching the main temple, visitors must pass through two or three security checkpoints. At the final checkpoint, priests often wait to intercept visitors. Once visitors have passed through security, these priests approach them to check their tickets. Then, they accompany visitors to the main temple, where the familiar pattern of extortion begins.
My experience became more spiritual after forgoing priest services. Things were going smoothly until I encountered another form of corruption. Before reaching the main temple, visitors must pass through two or three security checkpoints. At the final checkpoint, priests often wait to intercept visitors. Once visitors have passed through security, these priests approach them to check their tickets. Then, they accompany visitors to the main temple, where the familiar pattern of extortion begins.
Although I didn’t bring a priest from the office, I was still stopped by one near the security checkpoint inside the temple. He checked my ticket and insisted on accompanying me. I told him I was happy to go inside without a priest, but he persisted, urging me to take him with my group. I declined, and then I heard other priests telling him to talk directly with my guests. They threatened to ‘manage me’ if my guests agreed to their services. Fortunately, my guests also refused their offer. The priest was asking for a fee of Rs. 100, which was clearly a marketing ploy. We all know what they do inside.
Fortunately, I was able to visit the temple without being accompanied by any priest. However, I’ll be more cautious next time. I’ll inform my guests beforehand about the possibility of priests approaching them, even inside the temple. If there are no accompanying priests, a visit to Kashi Vishwanath is a beautiful spiritual experience. But if any priests do approach, they can ruin the whole experience. Their primary interest seems to be visitors’ money.
If you’re planning to visit Kashi Vishwanath Temple, here are a few tips:
1: For a quick Darshan, walk directly from Godowlia crossing to the temple. Traffic is prohibited between Godowlia and Kashi Vishwanath, but you can easily find wheelchair assistance for Rs. 500. Wheelchair helpers will take you to the temple, wait while you perform the rituals, and then bring you back to Godowlia crossing.
2: Be wary of people wearing ID cards who claim to be authorized by the temple to help visitors. These individuals are often frauds. Avoid talking to them. If you need directions, ask a police officer or local shopkeeper, but never agree to go with them.”
3: The temple office is located just 100 meters before Kashi Vishwanath Temple on the main street. Here, you can purchase Sugam Darshan tickets and deposit your belongings in the free lockers provided by the temple board. The tickets can also be booked online through temple’s website. Please note that you cannot carry any electronics (mobile phones, chargers, batteries, e-watches, etc.), sharp objects, pens, cosmetics, hand sanitizer, tobacco products, or other prohibited items inside the temple. Deposit all of these items in the lockers and keep the key with you.
4: You can enter the temple corridor with your shoes on. Shoe racks are available inside the corridor.
5. As mentioned before, decline the services of priests politely. Prasadam (a box of sweets) and Rudraksha Mala are available at the temple office. Be sure to collect these items before entering the temple. This way, you can offer them to Bhagwan during the Darshan.
6: Avoid buying flowers from the vendors outside the temple. They may not ask for payment upfront, but they will demand exorbitant amounts after your Darshan. If you purchase flowers from these vendors, they will send someone with you inside the temple who will try to extort money from you, similar to the priests. Consider bringing flowers with you from outside or purchasing them from the shops along the street between Godowlia crossing and the temple. There’s even a wholesale flower market about 300 meters from the temple where you can buy flowers in advance.
“7. As I mentioned previously, avoid interacting with any priests inside the temple.
8: There is a separate queue for Sugam Darshan. Ask a police officer to direct you to the correct line.
9: You cannot enter the Garbhgrih. The Garbhgrih is cordoned off, and everyone performs Darshan from the other side of the barrier.
“10. If you have a Sugam Darshan ticket with a Rudraksha, you can give it to the priest at the Garbhgrih and ask him to touch it to the Lingam. You cannot touch the Lingam yourself, but your Rudraksha Mala can, and you can wear it forever.
11: Don’t forget to visit the newly opened Sringar Gauri (Ardhangini of Mahadev) shrine located under the basement of the Gyanwapi mosque. The shrine was always accessible to devotees but was closed for political reasons in the 1990s. It was reopened last year. Be sure to thank Yogi Adityanath for his efforts in reopening the shrine
12. After completing your Darshan of Kashi Vishwanath, explore the various other temples within the corridor. One temple I highly recommend is Annpoorna Mata. The statue of Annpoorna Mata was stolen from the temple nearly a century ago. It was displayed in a museum in Canada for many years before being returned to India in 2021. Don’t confuse this temple with the larger Annpoorna Mata temple located outside the corridor.
13: I also encourage you to explore the entire corridor. Near Ganga Dwar, you’ll find Pashupatinath Temple, locally known as Nepali Mandir. Be sure to visit this temple as well.
14: While many people desire to visit the temple during the various aartis, I recommend against it. Despite the large size of the Vishwanath temple corridor, the Grabhgriha (inner sanctum) is quite small. A bench is placed directly at the entrance of the Grabhgriha, which is only about 3 feet wide and 5 feet tall. Only those who manage to secure a seat on this bench can see the Aarti or the events happening inside the Grabhgriha. The rest of the people are relegated to the back, with limited visibility. Even those standing behind the bench may struggle to see clearly. For a more enjoyable experience, I suggest opting for a regular Sugam Darshan.
15 : Lastly, be cautious about engaging with anyone claiming to be a guide. If you desire a guide, ensure they are authorized by the government. Many individuals may present themselves as temple-authorized guides, but this is false. The temple does not authorize any guides. You’ll often encounter people wearing temple-issued ID cards, which they claim proves their authorization, but this is not true. These cards are typically daily visitor passes issued to locals for a fee. If you’re unsure, ask the guide to show their official government-issued guide license. Avoid engaging with fake guides, as it can significantly impact your experience. You can read about a group of devotees who had a negative experience with a fake guide in this article:
I’m not trying to alarm anyone with these negative comments. Unfortunately, everything I’ve written is true and based on my personal experiences. My only goal is to ensure you have a peaceful and fulfilling spiritual experience at Kashi Vishwanath. By sharing these tips and insights, I hope to help you avoid any potential pitfalls. I hope that the authorities will take steps to address the issues related to certain priests. Hari Om, Peace!
Here is a map to help you reach Kashi Vishwanath Temple Help Desk office from Godowlia Crossing:
