Monthly Archives: January 2009

Monkeys in Mathura

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Today, I’m celebrating The Rabbit Hole Day by writing about an experience I’ve never shared before. I didn’t know about this festival until Lane sent me an email explaining it, and I thought it would be fun to join in. I’ve chosen to write about the monkeys of Mathura City for this celebration. Mathura, the birthplace of Krishna, is one of the most sacred cities for Hindus and a major attraction for both Indian and international tourists. I’ve visited Mathura four times, with my first trip when I was ten and my last one four years ago.

Mathura is home to a large number of incredibly smart monkeys—possibly more than in Benares. On one occasion, I was in Mathura with my mother, navigating through narrow alleys on our way to a temple. I was captivated by the people, the old houses, the colors, the culture, and the religious atmosphere. It was fascinating. However, someone warned us to avoid carrying items in our hands and to take off our glasses, as monkeys are known to snatch belongings. Despite this, I was skeptical and kept my glasses on, thinking they wouldn’t be interested in them.

We encountered several people who repeated the same warning about the monkeys. Even though I was reluctant to part with my glasses, my mother, who had a purse but kept her glasses on, didn’t heed the advice either. After a few more minutes, my mother suddenly exclaimed, “Oh! My glasses!” By the time I turned around, a monkey had snatched her glasses and was sitting in a tree. We both found it amusing and were quite surprised. I approached the monkey, trying to negotiate the return of the glasses, but the monkey seemed more interested in trying them on.

Shortly after, a man approached us offering to retrieve the glasses for a fee. He asked for Rs. 100 but agreed to Rs. 25 after some bargaining. He went to a nearby shop and bought a packet of garbanzo beans for Rs. 2. It seemed the monkey was in on the plan. The man threw the garbanzo beans up to the monkey, who carefully placed the glasses on a branch before grabbing the beans. Unfortunately, when the monkey threw the glasses down, they fell and broke. The man apologized, saying he had tried his best but couldn’t prevent the mishap. We continued to the temple, with me now holding my glasses in hand.

We later tried to find a place to repair the glasses and were surprised to learn from a local that this kind of monkey behavior was common. He explained that many trained monkeys are used to steal items from people, and their owners then make deals with those who lose their possessions. We couldn’t repair the glasses, so my mother had to experience Mathura without them, which was quite challenging for her. In Hindu society, monkeys are revered because of their association with Lord Hanuman, who was known for his playful and mischievous nature. Perhaps this incident was a modern-day reflection of Hanuman’s antics. Despite the inconvenience, we enjoyed the experience and still laugh about it.

Happy Rabbit Hole Day!

Per capita income India

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In India, one of the most common questions people ask is, “How much is your salary?” With India’s rapid development, the nature of such questions has evolved. About twenty years ago, the standard query after meeting someone was, “What do your parents do?” Today, however, the first question is often about one’s occupation, followed by inquiries about the parents’ professions. While family remains a crucial aspect of Indian society, it is clear that the focus has shifted towards individual careers.

However, discussing salary in India can be quite confusing. Despite having a fixed salary, many people are unsure of their actual earnings due to the prevalent practice of bribery. Here’s how these conversations typically go:

**Person A:** “What is your salary?”

**Person B:** “Ten thousand, but I make about twenty thousand including everything.”

In this context, “everything” often refers to bribes. It’s not uncommon for people to disclose only their official salary, with others then asking if this amount includes additional earnings from bribery. This practice is particularly prevalent among government employees, many of whom are involved in corrupt practices. It’s hard to imagine any government department where work can be done without offering a bribe.

Whether dealing with civil courts, the electricity department, the water board, municipal services, road transport offices, or the police, bribery is a common requirement. For instance, if someone wants a court case to be scheduled at their convenience, a bribe to the clerks can make it happen. If one wishes to reduce their electricity bill, paying a fraction of the bill as a bribe can lower the amount due. Even obtaining a fake driving license can be accomplished by bribing officials, bypassing any testing requirements.

This stark contrast with Western practices is striking. In Western countries, when asked about salary, people are usually asked if the amount is before or after taxes. In India, the focus is on whether the amount is before or after bribes—a significant difference. Many people avoid paying income tax by hiding their earnings, deciding on their own how much tax to pay.

In addition, due to the scarcity of jobs, many people receive their salaries in cash rather than through bank accounts. This system allows employers to bypass official records, leading to widespread underpayment. Even well-known companies like Coca-Cola sometimes fail to pay their temporary employees the standard minimum wage. Improved record-keeping and computerized systems might help address some of these issues, but it’s uncertain whether such measures would be foolproof against new forms of evasion.

Newly born girl child thrown on the street

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Neetu is a sixteen-year-old girl who lives with one of my relatives in Mau district. Her story begins tragically: she was abandoned in a heap of garbage near the Mau railway station shortly after birth. Despite her desperate cries, no one stepped forward to help her. Fortunately, a relative of mine saw Neetu and couldn’t bear to leave her behind. He picked her up from the garbage and took her to his home. Upon arriving home, he showed Neetu to his wife, who was initially furious. She was already overwhelmed with their seven children—two daughters and five sons—and was not inclined to take on another child.

However, her husband argued that leaving Neetu in the garbage could mean certain death at the hands of an animal. They were initially unsure of Neetu’s gender, mistakenly thinking she was a male baby. When his wife discovered Neetu was a girl, her distress grew, worrying about the future dowry for her marriage. Nevertheless, they eventually decided to keep her. Now, at sixteen years old, Neetu has completed her 10th grade with good marks. My aunt, who had grown fond of Neetu, passed away a few years ago, leaving my uncle to care for her. My uncle, now elderly and retired, is largely neglected by his other children who live far away.

He is fully dependent on Neetu and is proud of his decision to keep her in the family. However, he is deeply concerned about her future, particularly her marriage. He has been searching for a groom for Neetu but has faced repeated rejection. The issue is not her character or education but the stigma associated with her origins. When potential suitors learn that Neetu was found in the garbage, they refuse to marry her. Neetu is being judged and rejected for circumstances beyond her control. My uncle’s dilemma is further compounded by the conservative and male-dominated nature of society in Mau. Despite his willingness to consider even an inter-caste groom, the stigma remains a significant barrier.

In Indian society, where boys are often prioritized over girls, Neetu’s situation highlights the deep-seated gender biases. The preference for male children leads to the tragic reality of female infanticide and the societal pressures faced by families with daughters. There are instances where people are criticized for having only daughters, facing scorn and ridicule, and there is an outdated belief that only males should perform certain rituals, such as carrying a body to the cremation ground. However, times are slowly changing.

I’ve heard of cases where daughters have defied tradition and performed last rites for their fathers, despite the initial shock it may cause. This shift indicates that attitudes are evolving, even if slowly. Hinduism, in its teachings, places women in high regard, but societal practices often fall short of these ideals. I remain hopeful that one day society will overcome these discriminatory attitudes, and girls like Neetu will not face such unjust barriers. I wish Neetu finds happiness and a loving partner, and I hope that the future will see a more equitable treatment of all children, regardless of their gender or circumstances of birth.

Sewage in Ganga River

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India TV News Channel hosts a competition called “Video of the Day,” where participants are encouraged to submit videos on various topics. Each day, a winner is selected, and the prize is a color TV. I entered the competition with a video highlighting the issue of sewage discharge into the Ganga River in Varanasi. To my delight, my video was chosen as the Video of the Day, and I won the TV. While I was thrilled to win, the process was more complicated than I had anticipated. I had to pay a 25% tax on the prize and make phone calls that cost nearly a thousand rupees. Additionally, there was a lengthy wait of six months before I finally received the television.

I even had to travel to Lucknow to collect the TV and bring it back to Varanasi by bus. I chose the bus over the train because I was wary of potential encounters with the police. In trains and at railway stations, the police are known for seeking bribes, especially if they spot someone traveling with something new or valuable. I wanted to avoid sharing my joy with those who might dampen it. I made this video with Lane two years ago when he was in India. We visited the sewage discharge point in Nagwa and used his small camera to film the footage. I wish we had a better camera for the project.

Kite festival in Varanasi

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The kite festival on the 14th and 15th was one I really enjoyed. I used to fly kites for at least four or five months each year, but I stopped doing it about six or seven years ago. Now, I only fly kites during this festival, known as Khichadi. Khichadi is also the name of a traditional dish that everyone cooks for the occasion. The festival has religious significance, with people expected to make some kind of donation. For the past ten years, I have donated blood on this day, but unfortunately, I couldn’t this year.

I went to the hospital to donate blood, but they turned me away because I was suffering from a cold and cough. I’ll try again in a week. I did manage to fly a few kites, but not as many as I had hoped. I bought about fifty kites, but only managed to fly five myself. My friends flew the rest. The festival is more of a family event now; people gather on their rooftops, enjoy loud music, eat Khichadi, and fly kites all day. The number of kite flyers has decreased significantly over the years. The sky used to be filled with kites, but now it’s much emptier.

Many parents today discourage their children from flying kites, associating it with risky behavior. They prefer taking their kids to McDonald’s for junk food and Coca-Cola, but see kite flying as undesirable. I think kite flying is a far better activity than sitting in front of the TV watching political debates. Unfortunately, there are some risks associated with the festival. Each year, around 15-20 kids get injured from falling off rooftops, and occasionally, there are fatalities. Despite the dangers, kite flying remains a lot of fun.

Another danger associated with kite flying involves the use of Chinese strings, which contain a lot of iron. While it’s common to get minor cuts from kite strings, the iron in Chinese strings can lead to tetanus if not treated. Additionally, if Chinese strings come into contact with electrical wires, they can cause electric shocks. In Varanasi, where many electrical wires are exposed, this is a real concern. Indian kite strings, which only contain glass powder, are safer, but many people prefer the Chinese ones because they are stronger, despite the risks.

When I ask my foreign friends about kite flying in their countries, it often sounds less exciting. For example, my friend Adam in Chicago boasted about his ability to maneuver kites in different directions and spin them around using special equipment. I laughed when I heard this because we do similar tricks with just one string. I showed him our kites, and he was amazed that we could spin them and cut other kites down with a single string.

I asked him if kite-cutting was common in his country, and he said, “No.” To me, kite-cutting is a crucial part of the fun. We’re hosting an international kite festival in Gujarat this year, with participants from various countries. But, as usual, it’s likely that India, China, or Pakistan will take the top prize.

Tabla lessons in Varanasi

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A student named Allen Roda from the University of New York arrived at my guest house on the 12th. He is conducting research on Tabla making, a topic that seems to have been explored very little before. Allen plans to write a comprehensive study covering all aspects of Tabla production, including the origins of the skin, the crafting process, the source of the wood, and more. He had already made some contacts in Varanasi before his arrival. I thought it would be beneficial for him to meet Mr. Deobrat Mishra, so I introduced them. Allen mentioned that he greatly appreciated Mr. Mishra’s insights.

I also wanted to introduce Allen to Mr. Praveen Uddhav, a senior lecturer of Tabla at BHU. By coincidence, Mr. Mishra had also recommended that Allen meet Mr. Uddhav. We visited Mr. Uddhav, and during our meeting, Mr. Uddhav expressed some concern about Allen’s interactions with other Tabla makers in Varanasi. He introduced us to an Irish visitor named Steve, who had recently been defrauded by a tout.

Steve had come to Varanasi to study Tabla and hoped to enroll in an M.Mus. program at BHU. He met a man named Siddharth, who told Steve that he needed to buy various instruments, even though he was only interested in learning Tabla. Steve believed Siddharth and ended up purchasing 30-40 different instruments worth $23,000. This included not only traditional instruments but also Western drums and others. After the purchase, Siddharth stopped meeting with Steve.

When Steve visited BHU to apply for admission, he met Mr. Uddhav and explained his situation. Mr. Uddhav informed him that he only needed a pair of Tabla, costing around $100, to start learning. Realizing he had been swindled, Steve filed an FIR against Siddharth. The police arrested Siddharth’s father, who was not in the city at the time. Siddharth’s father returned Rs. 4,00,000 ($8,000) to Steve and promised to pay the remaining amount soon. I felt deeply sorry for Steve, but such incidents are not uncommon in Varanasi.

This might explain Mr. Uddhav’s reluctance to let Allen meet too many new people. However, I believe it’s beneficial for Allen to network widely for his research. I am confident that Allen will be more cautious and won’t spend even $23 without proper verification. During our visit, we also saw Mr. Uddhav’s 8-year-old daughter playing the Tabla remarkably well. Mr. Uddhav mentioned that she could produce all the different sounds and just needs to improve her finger speed to become as accomplished as other renowned players.

Allen managed to meet at least fifteen new people, which is excellent for his research. He is leaving on the 18th but plans to return in June for an extended stay of one year to continue his research. He intends to bring his wife, Nikki, who works for the Federal Reserve Bank. Nikki is looking to volunteer in Varanasi and found an organization called Cashpor India, which is a microfinance trust providing small loans to impoverished individuals. I think this organization will be a great fit for Nikki’s skills and interests.

Protecting Hindu temples in Varanasi

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Tomorrow is Muharram, a significant festival for Muslims. On the eve of this festival, Muslims in the city hold a nighttime parade that starts from various mosques. During the parade, many male participants walk the streets, beating their chests as a symbol of mourning. This act commemorates the death of one of their revered figures. I always observe this parade with respect and appreciation for their traditions, culture, and religion. Each parade features a beautifully decorated horse, adorned with flowers, which people believe brings blessings. I also take one flower every year.

This year, however, I noticed something unusual. Yesterday, I saw municipality workers setting up bamboo barriers around Hindu temples in my neighborhood. When I inquired, they explained that the barriers were meant to protect the temples during the parade. I was perplexed, as I didn’t understand why Hindu temples would need extra security for this event. The workers mentioned that there is a concern that Muslims might harm the temples. While I had heard rumors about such tensions, I never thought they were true. The parade itself, with its intense atmosphere, might give an impression of potential violence.

There is always a heavy police presence, including the Rapid Action Force, to ensure security during the parade. I’ve heard claims that violence has occurred during these events in the past, though I can’t confirm their accuracy. Seeing the barriers around the temples made me question whether the concerns about this festival are justified. Varanasi is known for its Ganga-Jamuni culture, symbolizing the harmony between Hindus (Ganga) and Muslims (Jamuna). This tradition suggests a strong friendship between the two communities, but recent events make me doubt if this harmony still exists. The tension following the destruction of the Babri Mosque in Ayodhya seems to persist, though it may be hidden rather than resolved.

It’s disheartening to see Hindu temples being barricaded. While the safety of temples is important, it is troubling that such measures are necessary. It feels as though the government and people are overreacting to protect the temples in a country where over 80% of the population is Hindu. This situation reflects poorly on the state of our societal relations. The government’s actions seem to suggest that Muslims are given undue influence, possibly for electoral reasons, and that this has led to an environment where Muslims feel they can act with impunity, even to the point of potentially damaging temples.

Last year, on December 6th, the anniversary of the Babri Mosque demolition, Muslims closed their shops in Varanasi to protest and demanded the mosque’s reconstruction. Despite the historical context of the mosque being built on the site of a previous temple, many still demand its restoration. This ongoing dispute has been in the Indian Supreme Court for fifteen years, with no resolution in sight. It seems the government avoids making a decision to avoid upsetting the Muslim community. Violence between communities is a recurring issue. I recall an incident from seven or eight years ago when Muslims killed a Hindu man during a protest.

The man, who was newly married, was murdered on the street, leaving his widow to face a lifetime of hardship. Such events are deeply painful and highlight the persistent, unresolved tensions. I believe that the tensions between Hindus and Muslims are exacerbated by government policies that discriminate along religious lines. For example, Muslims receive subsidies for pilgrimages to Mecca, but Hindus receive no such assistance for their pilgrimages. Additionally, Muslims are recognized as a minority group in certain states and receive special benefits, while Hindus are not afforded similar recognition in places like Jammu and Kashmir.

This kind of discrimination only fuels societal divisions. It is more productive to emphasize commonalities rather than differences, yet our government often does the opposite. A figure like Zakir Naik, who organizes lectures that highlight differences between Islam and other religions, contributes to this divide. His speeches, primarily attended by Muslims who cheer his assertions of Islam’s superiority, are reminiscent of how violence can be incited through rhetoric. His influence, though non-violent in method, is damaging in its own way.

It seems the Indian government is more willing to impose restrictions on places of worship rather than addressing the root causes of communal discord. The fact that we need to barricade temples reflects a broader issue of fear and division. It is unfortunate that such measures are seen as necessary, and it suggests that the government’s handling of communal issues has led to a situation where discrimination persists. I now find myself seeing the divine presence in confinement not just once a year, but twice, and while it’s not a major issue for me, it still doesn’t feel right.

Swiss family takes Hindi class

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This is the first time I’m hosting a family, and they’re a couple with two children. Nadia is pursuing her master’s degree in Hindi Literature and Sanskrit at the University of Lausanne, Switzerland, while her husband is an engineer. They’ve come to Varanasi for a family vacation. Nadia has chosen Mr. Vimal Mehra as her Hindi teacher. Mr. Mehra taught Hindi at Nadia’s university last year, which is why she selected him. I took Nadia to Mr. Mehra’s place yesterday; it’s just a three-minute walk from my house. Mr. Mehra seems like a very nice person. From what I’ve heard, he also teaches at the Wisconsin University’s Varanasi center alongside Mr. Virendra Singh.

This is the first time any of my guests will be learning Hindi with Mr. Mehra. Although I had heard of him before, I had never met him personally. Many people have spoken highly of him, so I’m confident that Nadia’s classes will be beneficial. Nadia is also pleased with her lessons; she appreciates that Mr. Mehra encourages her to speak, which she had been missing in her previous two years of learning Hindi. I’ve enjoyed hosting their family. They are incredibly organized, reflecting their Swiss background. For example, when Gaitano, Nadia’s older son, dropped a plastic wrapper on the floor, Nadia immediately addressed it and disciplined him, which I found impressive.

Gaitano isn’t fond of Indian food, so we’ve been preparing noodles and pasta specially for him. On the other hand, Elio, the younger child, seems to enjoy our food and eats with his parents. Nadia has brought plenty of instant food and powdered milk for Elio. He’s adorable and always smiling. Everyone in my family and my neighborhood adores him. Whenever he’s on the roof, people from other rooftops often look over to see him. Paolo, Nadia’s husband, speaks a bit of English, which creates a small language barrier between us, but we manage to communicate. I enjoy talking to him because I’m interested in learning about his job.

Gaitano doesn’t speak any English, but Elio speaks an international language—mostly just “Mama,” which I find endearing. Nadia plans to travel to Mumbai on February 20th after completing her Hindi classes here. Following that, she will visit Singapore and then Australia.