Tag Archives: Banaras Hindu University

Hotel Haifa in Varanasi

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Hotel Haifa is located near Assi ghat in Varanasi. They are recommended on several on online travel forum and have really good reputation in the market hence they are usually full. I also used to recommend their hotel but did not know about their strange business policy that they do not allow tourist guides inside their hotel. Actually I an American university ‘s student group was staying at Hotel Haifa and they wanted to meet me. They invited to their hotel and we were talking in the restaurant inside the hotel. Suddenly the owner of the hotel Mr. Ravi Mishra showed up to introduce himself to the group.

After talking with them he asked me how come I was there. I told him that the group had invited me because they wanted to talk with me and he seemed upset hearing this. He told me- Listen, I want to make this clear to you that I do not allow guides and outsiders to enter in my hotel. I was shocked to hear this. He said that he doesn’t allow tourist guides to enter in the hotel and talk with the clients. He asked me not to enter in his hotel again. After talking with me he told the same thing to the group. They were all looking at me with surprised face. They told me sorry for whatever happened.

I was really shocked and felt guilty for whatever happened with me. It was the first time when somebody insulted me. We stopped our meeting and left the hotel. I talked about it with a few people who had already stayed at the Hotel Haifa and one of them told me – The restaurant staff was eager to please, but I felt slightly intimidated by the demeanor of management. They do promote their own tour guides, money changing and travel agent services so that explains what they are doing to you. As an American traveling alone, I liked having one person I could count on and had developed a rapport with leading up to the trip. They want to be the guests’ primary resource or they have touts they want to network with.

I don’t know what to say about this but it is really strange if they do not allow locals or tourist guides to meet with their clients. I think they don’t want their clients to meet with locals so that their clients always hear them and finally they can be cheated easily. I had heard about British prohibiting Dogs and Indians at several places but it all happened in early 1900 and now I see the same thing happening in the 21st century even we are already independent and have our own government. Do you really think that you want to support such hotel by staying there? I am not going to work with anyone whoever stays there.

Injured man refused hospital admission

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Yesterday I saw something inhuman crazy activity in BHU. I have already had so many bad experiences with BHU and what I saw yesterday really shocked me. I went to IMS (Institute of Medical Sciences) at BHU yesterday. After parking my bike I saw a bunch of people standing together near the main gate of IMS building which looked unusual because the security there doesn’t allow public gathering. I also went to see what was happening there and found that there was an injured fainted person, very close to death, was lying down on the ground.

He had injuries on his face and maybe he had epilepsy attack also. I heard people saying that somebody had beaten him. There were at least ten people standing around him but nobody wanted to take him to the hospital. They said that they had informed the police and when police comes then they would take care of him. Since IMS is medicine studies center, a lot of doctors were going in and coming out of the building. They also saw him but did not show any interest in helping this person. All of this was going on in the premises of one of the best medical colleges in India and very well known all over the world.

Finally police came, asked the people what had happened to him but they also did not seem interested in helping. They sat on a bike just next to this person and were talking about something of their interest. They were laughing and seemed like not concerned at all about this injured person who seemed very close to death to me. Finally after a few minutes one policeman came and started asking this person to wake up and go out of the IMS premises. They were hitting him slowly by their foot, they dragged him on road hoping that he would wake up but it was impossible.

Finally police left without doing anything. I was like what the hell is this? Somebody needed urgent medical assistance but nothing happened even he was inside the premises of the one of the best medical colleges of India. Doctors saw him, the police saw him, many other people saw him but nobody helped. Finally I saw two students coming with a first aid box but they were not doctors and this person needed more than first aid box. They said that they would also inform the police because it was not safe for them to help this person without informing the police.

They said that this person was a thief and was trying to steal something from IMS building hence it was not safe for them to help this person. I understand them because I know how crazy our police is but what about those doctors or the policemen who came to see him? It was really cruel. Doesn’t matter whether he was a thief or what but he was dying. We are spending Rs. 8,00,500 per day to keep Ajmal Kasab in our jail who had killed hundreds of people at Taj but not even general medical assistance to this person only because he was a thief ? I was really socked to see this crazy behavior of police and the doctors. I have no words to explain that cruelty.

Italian language course

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I’ve recently joined an Italian language course and am excited about the opportunity. I’ve always wanted to learn a foreign language, but in Varanasi, there haven’t been many options. BHU and Sampoornanand Sanskrit University were the only institutions offering foreign language courses, and BHU only accepts its own students, while attending Sampoornanand felt like a waste of time. Although I wasn’t particularly interested in Italian initially, I enrolled in this course because I realized that waiting for a more suitable opportunity might mean years of delay in learning a language.

My goal has always been to learn German, and Sampoornanand University does offer a six-month diploma in various foreign languages, including German. I had signed up for German classes about four years ago, but the program was poorly managed, and I was disheartened to learn that students were given certificates regardless of their performance. Eventually, I decided to stop attending. The Italian course I’m now enrolled in is conducted by Centro Risorse India, an Italian institution that not only teaches Italian to Indians but also supports Italian students in India.

I also work as a translator at Centro Risorse India’s Varanasi branch. The course consists of 50 hours of instruction, with three-hour classes on weekends. The classes are held at a school near Godowlia. The course features two teachers: an Indian woman from Delhi who also works at Centro Risorse India’s Pune center, and an Italian scholar who is fluent in Hindi. There are six students in total, including me. One of my classmates is a tour guide who works with Japanese tourists, while another is a Hindi teacher.

Our teachers are excellent. They use interactive methods rather than traditional book-based instruction, incorporating games, role-plays, and frequent speaking practice. Although the pronunciation and grammar are challenging and unfamiliar to me, I’m committed to doing my best. I’m unsure how long it will take to become proficient in speaking and writing Italian, but I’m determined to make progress and see where this journey takes me.

Research on secular philosophers and cremationists

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Adam, a PhD candidate at the University of Chicago, returned to Benares and stayed at my place again. This year, he aimed to conduct preliminary research for his upcoming study in India. Although he wanted to study Hindi, he had decided to go to Mussoorie for that purpose. Adam was interested in two main subjects: laborers at construction sites and Doams (the individuals who work at cremation sites). Accompanying him this year was his fiancée, Megan, who is conducting research for her school, Smith College, in Boston, on secular Indian philosophers. She was looking to gather data on philosophers active between 1850 and 1940.

Megan had initially gone to the University of Mysore but had not found any useful resources due to a lack of assistance. Frustrated, she left Mysore and came to Benares with hopes of better luck at BHU. She wanted to visit the BHU library and consult with professors from the philosophy department. I enlisted the help of a friend from BHU, who guided us through the university. Our first stop was the International Students Center, where we met an officer who directed us to the head of the central library.

When we met with the head of the library, both Adam and Megan were impressed by the facilities at BHU, noting that the library was far superior to that of the University of Mysore. They praised the helpfulness of the staff at BHU. Megan was asked to write a formal request for permission to use the library, and after submitting it, we were granted access to the books. We toured the library with a few staff members who showed us around. Megan found several valuable books for her research, but unfortunately, the books were too old and fragile to be photocopied.

Instead, she had to request digital copies. The library staff asked us to return in five days to collect the digital formats. Afterward, we visited the philosophy department and met a professor who was more interested in showcasing his own work than in discussing Megan’s research. He spent an hour talking about his books before finally asking what Megan needed. She explained her research, and he suggested she return the next day to explore the philosophy department’s library, which he claimed contained relevant books.

Returning home, Megan felt positive about the day’s progress, especially after the promising experience at BHU, which contrasted sharply with her frustrating visit to the University of Mysore. I was pleased for Megan’s successful research day. Adam, meanwhile, wanted to interview a Doam, so I took him to Harishchandra Ghat and introduced him to a contact I had met while working on CBC’s documentary *Myths and Might*. We met at the ghat, and he took us to the electric crematorium where he worked. This was my first visit to an electric burner, and it turned out to be the perfect setting for Adam’s interview.

Over the next few hours, Adam and Megan asked the Doam various questions about his personal life, social status, and experiences of discrimination. To show his appreciation, Adam wanted to give a gift, so I asked the Doam about the nearest sweet shop. The Doam explained that they preferred alcohol over sweets, so we ended up buying him a bottle of whiskey instead.

Treatment of Cancer at BHU for Prabhu

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A few days ago, my friend Prabhu fell seriously ill with severe stomach pain. He was rushed to the emergency ward at BHU (Benares Hindu University) Hospital. The doctors diagnosed him with a serious condition but were reluctant to admit him, citing a lack of available beds in the emergency ward. They directed Prabhu’s family to check the general ward, which also had no vacant beds. Despite Prabhu’s intense pain and distress, the doctors refused to attend to him. Desperate, his family decided to take him to another hospital, Mata Anandmayi Hospital in Bhadaini, but faced the same issue—no available beds. Prabhu was in agony, nearly fainting, and when they returned to BHU, the doctors displayed a concerning lack of compassion, refusing to even start treatment.

Prabhu’s father pleaded with the doctors, even touching their feet to request treatment, but was met with a cold response. The doctors continued to insist there were no beds available. Frustrated, Prabhu’s family sought help from a contact who knew the former president of the BHU student union. After the former president intervened, BHU finally arranged a bed for Prabhu at around 11 PM. Tests and treatment began, but the doctors recommended transferring Prabhu to PGI, Lucknow for surgery. When Prabhu’s family arrived at PGI, they encountered the same problem—no beds available. Prabhu’s brother reached out to a well-known figure in Lucknow, who made a call to the hospital. Following this intervention, PGI managed to provide a bed for Prabhu.

At PGI, after a brief examination and review of his previous reports, the doctors diagnosed Prabhu with colon cancer. They recommended surgery but warned that there was no guarantee he would survive even ten days. The cost of the surgery was Rs. 1,25,000 ($2,500). Fearing the worst, Prabhu requested to be brought back to Benares, preferring to face his fate there. The news of Prabhu’s condition spread quickly in our neighborhood, and everyone was deeply saddened. I suggested to Prabhu’s family that they seek a second opinion at the renowned TATA Memorial Center in Mumbai. I contacted my friend Alok in Mumbai, who arranged an appointment and forwarded Prabhu’s medical reports to TATA Memorial.

The doctors at TATA Memorial reviewed the reports and concluded that there was no evidence of cancer. They indicated that the diagnosis from PGI was incorrect. I relayed this hopeful news to Prabhu and his family, who were overwhelmed with relief and joy. Prabhu was admitted to a private hospital where he underwent successful treatment and is now recovering well. Meanwhile, I had a distressing experience at BHU when my baby fell from a chair and suffered a head injury. We rushed to BHU’s emergency ward, only to find that the registration counter had already closed. After receiving instructions from security guards, I entered the registration room from the back door and saw staff preoccupied with counting money.

When another patient tried to register through an open window, a clerk became aggressive and injured the patient’s hand. I managed to get a registration paper and submitted it to the doctor, who then required me to write a declaration that I would not involve the police in the future. Despite the urgency, there were no available supplies like nylon thread for stitching. I had to leave the hospital to buy these items myself. After waiting for over an hour and a half, junior doctors finally started stitching my baby’s wound. This was in one of Uttar Pradesh’s largest hospitals, and the lack of timely care was shocking.

Having experienced such poor service, I now share Prabhu’s apprehension towards BHU and will avoid it for any future needs. I sought treatment for my baby elsewhere and had the stitches removed at a different hospital. The condition of government hospitals is deplorable; their focus seems to be on money rather than patient care. Despite the considerable revenue and international reputation of institutions like BHU, the reality of their services often falls short. For many who lack health insurance and cannot afford private hospitals, this situation is dire. The question remains: are these hospitals designed to save lives or to fail those who seek their help?

25 new HIV patients everyday

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Today, Claire and I visited the NACO (National AIDS Control Organization) center at BHU to obtain data on HIV patients in Varanasi for our upcoming school workshop. Initially, the counselor refused to provide any data and directed us to seek permission from the head of the department first. Despite informing her that we were from an NGO, she remained unwilling to share any information. We then went to the head of the department’s office but were unable to meet him as he was occupied with another matter.

We spent two hours waiting in the counselor’s room, where we observed many people coming in for testing. I met a girl who is HIV-positive and now volunteers at the NACO center. After spending some time with Claire, the counselor warmed up to us and eventually provided the information we needed. I suspect her change of heart was influenced by Claire’s presence. She mentioned that NACO has testing centers in many districts across Uttar Pradesh, but the BHU center is the only one in Poorvanchal with an ELISA testing facility.

Poorvanchal is a region in Uttar Pradesh comprising seventeen districts. I was surprised to learn that people seeking HIV tests from across the region ultimately come to the Varanasi center. Although testing is available in their own districts, those results are not considered final. The ELISA test, which is the most reliable, is only available at the BHU center in Poorvanchal. The counselor noted a significant increase in HIV cases over the past few years. When she started her job nine years ago, they saw around five to six hundred people seeking tests each month. Today, that number has risen to between one hundred fifty and two hundred.

She also reported that a few years ago, they had fifty to a hundred positive results each month, but now they have at least twenty-five positive results every day. This increase was staggering and hard to believe. Interestingly, these figures only reflect those who have been referred by doctors; it doesn’t account for individuals who may be unaware of their HIV status. The counselor expressed concern that the number of positive cases will likely continue to rise due to inadequate government action.

She was dissatisfied with her job, citing a low salary. According to her, while WHO provides substantial funding to the Indian government, and then the Indian government allocates money to the Uttar Pradesh government and NACO, much of the funding is consumed by politicians and others involved in the project. One positive aspect of their work is that they now provide free ARVs (antiretrovirals) to HIV-positive patients, but only to those with a CD4 count below a critical level. Although I inquired about the specific CD4 threshold, she did not disclose it.

Tabla lessons in Varanasi

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A student named Allen Roda from the University of New York arrived at my guest house on the 12th. He is conducting research on Tabla making, a topic that seems to have been explored very little before. Allen plans to write a comprehensive study covering all aspects of Tabla production, including the origins of the skin, the crafting process, the source of the wood, and more. He had already made some contacts in Varanasi before his arrival. I thought it would be beneficial for him to meet Mr. Deobrat Mishra, so I introduced them. Allen mentioned that he greatly appreciated Mr. Mishra’s insights.

I also wanted to introduce Allen to Mr. Praveen Uddhav, a senior lecturer of Tabla at BHU. By coincidence, Mr. Mishra had also recommended that Allen meet Mr. Uddhav. We visited Mr. Uddhav, and during our meeting, Mr. Uddhav expressed some concern about Allen’s interactions with other Tabla makers in Varanasi. He introduced us to an Irish visitor named Steve, who had recently been defrauded by a tout.

Steve had come to Varanasi to study Tabla and hoped to enroll in an M.Mus. program at BHU. He met a man named Siddharth, who told Steve that he needed to buy various instruments, even though he was only interested in learning Tabla. Steve believed Siddharth and ended up purchasing 30-40 different instruments worth $23,000. This included not only traditional instruments but also Western drums and others. After the purchase, Siddharth stopped meeting with Steve.

When Steve visited BHU to apply for admission, he met Mr. Uddhav and explained his situation. Mr. Uddhav informed him that he only needed a pair of Tabla, costing around $100, to start learning. Realizing he had been swindled, Steve filed an FIR against Siddharth. The police arrested Siddharth’s father, who was not in the city at the time. Siddharth’s father returned Rs. 4,00,000 ($8,000) to Steve and promised to pay the remaining amount soon. I felt deeply sorry for Steve, but such incidents are not uncommon in Varanasi.

This might explain Mr. Uddhav’s reluctance to let Allen meet too many new people. However, I believe it’s beneficial for Allen to network widely for his research. I am confident that Allen will be more cautious and won’t spend even $23 without proper verification. During our visit, we also saw Mr. Uddhav’s 8-year-old daughter playing the Tabla remarkably well. Mr. Uddhav mentioned that she could produce all the different sounds and just needs to improve her finger speed to become as accomplished as other renowned players.

Allen managed to meet at least fifteen new people, which is excellent for his research. He is leaving on the 18th but plans to return in June for an extended stay of one year to continue his research. He intends to bring his wife, Nikki, who works for the Federal Reserve Bank. Nikki is looking to volunteer in Varanasi and found an organization called Cashpor India, which is a microfinance trust providing small loans to impoverished individuals. I think this organization will be a great fit for Nikki’s skills and interests.

Conference on Biology at BHU

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I had a tenant named Dave staying with me. He was a biologist from Fresno, California. Dave was invited to speak at a world environment conference at BHU, scheduled for on March 28, 2008. I accompanied him, along with my friend Amanda from the USA, who was conducting research on the history of Coke in India. I was assisting Amanda as a translator. We all went to BHU together. Dave was eager to introduce his company to an Indian audience, as he has a deep love for India and often dreams of returning to live here and learn Hindi. He was particularly excited to speak about wetlands.

We arrived at BHU at 2:45 PM and had special guest seating. It was my first time sitting in the guest area, thanks to Dave. We waited for Dave’s turn to speak, but unfortunately, it never came. We stayed until 7:30 PM, but Dave was never called to the stage. We were disappointed by this oversight from such a prestigious university. We reached out to BHU officials, who apologized and promised to reschedule his speech for the next day at 10:00 AM. The following day, we arrived on time again but waited until 2:30 PM, only to find that Dave’s name was still not called.

Given that Dave had another scheduled speech at the Mehndiganj Water Conference at 3:00 PM, we decided to leave BHU and head to Mehndiganj. Although we arrived 30 minutes late, Dave was able to deliver his speech there.Dave continued to try and secure an opportunity to speak at BHU, contacting the officials once more, but they were unable to provide a satisfactory response. Since the conference was only three days long, Dave never got the chance to speak at BHU.

Conference on Water Rights, Mehdiganj, Varanasi

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A conference on water rights was held in Mehndiganj from March 28th to 30th, 2008. I was invited by Nandlal to attend, and I was thrilled to learn that Sandeep Pandey and Medha Patekar would also be speaking. Nandlal Master also mentioned that a girl from the U.S. wanted to attend the conference and interview local villagers about their issues with Coke. She needed a translator, which made me even more excited because it meant I had the chance to work with her! I arranged to meet her at Assi Ghat, where we had an extensive discussion about the Coke issue in Mehndiganj.

After our conversation, I invited her to my home, where I showed her various documents related to the Coke controversies in Mehndiganj, Plachimada, and Kaladera. Impressed by my knowledge and assistance, she offered me a job as her translator. She was a PhD student in history at a prominent university in the U.S., though she requested that I not mention the name of her institution. She was friendly, well-educated, and deeply interested in the history of Coca-Cola in India. She was staying at a BHU hostel arranged by her university, but she found it inconvenient due to the lack of internet access in her room.

She had to walk 10-15 minutes each time she needed to use the internet. When she saw that my guest house had internet in all the rooms and a biologist staying in the next room—whose expertise could be useful for her research on groundwater depletion—she decided to move to my place. During the conference in Mehndiganj, I assisted her with translation as we interviewed numerous people, including social workers from Kaladera. I’ve chosen not to mention her name in this post as she experienced sexual harassment during her work and preferred to remain anonymous. If you want to learn more about her experience, please refer to the linked post.

Research for CBC Documentary

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Nandlal Master contacted me seeking information about Doams (people working at cremation sites) in Varanasi. He mentioned that his friend, currently in Varanasi, was interested in making a documentary about the lives of Doams. Since I live near the Ghats and have many friends along them, I could easily gather information about Doams. We met me at Assi Ghat, and we started checking hotels nearby to find his friend, who was staying somewhere in the vicinity. After visiting over ten hotels near Assi, we finally found his friend at a hotel close to the ghat.

When we met, his friend explained that he was a freelance journalist who had previously worked for the BBC but had left a few years ago. Currently, he was working on a CBC documentary titled *Myths and Might*. His role involved finding suitable subjects, scheduling interviews, and obtaining legal permissions. Since he was new to Varanasi, he needed my help to locate the right characters for his documentary. He was specifically looking for a young Doam whose father still worked at a cremation site, and who either attended computer classes or had a computer-related job. The goal was to highlight how Indian society was evolving.

I took him to Manikarnika Ghat, a major cremation site, where I knew a few people. We managed to meet over ten individuals, all eager to participate. We also met some people with wood shops at the site who asked us to return the next day. I consulted with some other friends who lived near Manikarnika Ghat about Doams, and was surprised to learn that Doams still had a king. They mentioned that nothing could be done without his permission. As it was getting dark, we decided to head home and continue our research the next day.

The following morning, we returned to Manikarnika Ghat. We spoke with many more people and asked if their children attended school. It was shocking to find that none of the people we spoke to had children in school. After talking to over 15 individuals, we decided to visit Harishchandra Ghat, another cremation site, where we spoke with many more people. We eventually met a 55-year-old man working at the electric burner at Harishchandra Ghat. His son, Raja Babu, worked for Reliance Money. We visited their home, met the family, and discussed CBC’s project with them. They agreed to participate in the documentary.

Raja Babu had an LLB degree from Banaras Hindu University and worked as an Area Manager for Reliance Money. His story was exactly what we were looking for. They explained that after Raja Babu completed fifth grade, no school would admit him due to the social stigma against Doams. Despite his father’s meager earnings as a rickshaw driver, he wanted his children to be educated. When no school would accept Raja Babu, he continued his studies independently. Eventually, Raja Babu began working as a helper at a doctor’s clinic, where he received training and financial support.

When a wealthy and respected person from Varanasi passed away and his family needed to arrange the cremation, Raja Babu’s uncle, who was working at Harishchandra Ghat, requested that Raja Babu be admitted to school instead of asking for money. The family agreed, and Raja Babu was admitted to Bengali Tola Inter College. Despite facing discrimination, he completed his 12th grade and later pursued a BA, MA, and LLB from BHU. After working for an American NGO called Cash for India, he joined Reliance Money. Raja Babu’s journey was compelling, and we decided to feature him in the documentary.

The next day, we visited the Doam Raja, the king of the Doam community. His home was unconventional—food was cooked using the wood left from cremations, and the house had a peculiar smell. He had a large family and several animals, and he was notably intoxicated when we arrived. Despite the challenging conditions, he agreed to grant permission for filming at Manikarnika and Harishchandra Ghats. On his roof, we saw two tiger statues, which were part of a local legend. It was said that the Doam Raja and the Maharaja of Benares were never friends. The Doam Raja had a tiger statue erected facing the Maharaja’s palace, which displeased the Maharaja.

The case ended with a court ruling requiring the Doam Raja to either remove the statue or build another one facing the opposite direction. The Doam Raja chose to erect a second statue facing away from the first one. With all the necessary permissions and characters in place, the CBC team was ready to proceed with their documentary project.