Monthly Archives: July 2009

Research with laborers and construction workers

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Adam has previously visited Varanasi to study Hindi. During this visit, he wanted to speak with construction workers, including those who work independently, those employed by agencies, those under contractors, and those working for the government. I noticed a construction site in my neighborhood and thought it would be a good opportunity to talk to some workers there, so I took Adam along and we spoke with two of them. Adam asked them several questions, but what intrigued me most was their response about training for laborers.

Adam inquired if they knew of any places in Benares where training is provided to laborers or skilled workers, and they mentioned a government training center in Chunar. However, neither of the workers had attended the center, nor were they interested in going. When asked why, they explained that, as they are poor, they prefer to work and earn money rather than stay somewhere without earning. They find it more practical to learn on the job while making some income. Both workers said that nearly all laborers start by carrying bricks or assisting skilled workers at construction sites, eventually becoming skilled laborers themselves.

None of them were satisfied with their earnings. They mentioned that laborers make only Rs. 120 ($2.50) per day, while skilled workers earn about Rs. 200 ($4) per day, which seems quite inadequate considering the rising cost of living in India. Additionally, when working under a contractor, they often receive even less because the contractor takes a cut. The workers also noted that most laborers in Benares are from Bihar or nearby villages. Adam asked about compensation for medical expenses in case of an injury. They said that, typically, contractors pressure the landowner to cover medical costs.

If the landowner agrees, they pay; otherwise, the contractor handles it. However, workers usually face difficulties getting any additional support from either the contractor or the landowner. Another interesting point was their explanation of why women are not often skilled laborers in India. They mentioned that skilled labor work can be risky, such as climbing scaffolding supported only by bamboo. I find it puzzling because Indian women often engage in risky activities like cooking over kerosene stoves, which can lead to accidents like LPG cylinder explosions. Women also face risks from forced marriages and dowry harassment, which seem more dangerous than climbing scaffolding.

Adam is also looking to speak with contractors. I know a few in my area and will introduce them to him. Additionally, Adam needed a recommendation letter from the Varanasi Development Authority (VDA) to facilitate his grant approval. We visited the VDA office, where an officer directed us to meet with the VDA Chairman. The following day, we met the Chairman and discussed Adam’s research. Although the VDA doesn’t engage heavily in construction due to limited funds, the Chairman agreed to provide the recommendation letter. Adam drafted the letter as requested, and the Chairman asked his typist to type it up. It took over an hour to type just one page, but we eventually received the important document.

The VDA also promised to offer any future assistance Adam might need, which was surprising as it’s uncommon for us to expect government help. Regardless, we secured what we needed, which is what truly matters.

Research on secular philosophers and cremationists

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Adam, a PhD candidate at the University of Chicago, returned to Benares and stayed at my place again. This year, he aimed to conduct preliminary research for his upcoming study in India. Although he wanted to study Hindi, he had decided to go to Mussoorie for that purpose. Adam was interested in two main subjects: laborers at construction sites and Doams (the individuals who work at cremation sites). Accompanying him this year was his fiancée, Megan, who is conducting research for her school, Smith College, in Boston, on secular Indian philosophers. She was looking to gather data on philosophers active between 1850 and 1940.

Megan had initially gone to the University of Mysore but had not found any useful resources due to a lack of assistance. Frustrated, she left Mysore and came to Benares with hopes of better luck at BHU. She wanted to visit the BHU library and consult with professors from the philosophy department. I enlisted the help of a friend from BHU, who guided us through the university. Our first stop was the International Students Center, where we met an officer who directed us to the head of the central library.

When we met with the head of the library, both Adam and Megan were impressed by the facilities at BHU, noting that the library was far superior to that of the University of Mysore. They praised the helpfulness of the staff at BHU. Megan was asked to write a formal request for permission to use the library, and after submitting it, we were granted access to the books. We toured the library with a few staff members who showed us around. Megan found several valuable books for her research, but unfortunately, the books were too old and fragile to be photocopied.

Instead, she had to request digital copies. The library staff asked us to return in five days to collect the digital formats. Afterward, we visited the philosophy department and met a professor who was more interested in showcasing his own work than in discussing Megan’s research. He spent an hour talking about his books before finally asking what Megan needed. She explained her research, and he suggested she return the next day to explore the philosophy department’s library, which he claimed contained relevant books.

Returning home, Megan felt positive about the day’s progress, especially after the promising experience at BHU, which contrasted sharply with her frustrating visit to the University of Mysore. I was pleased for Megan’s successful research day. Adam, meanwhile, wanted to interview a Doam, so I took him to Harishchandra Ghat and introduced him to a contact I had met while working on CBC’s documentary *Myths and Might*. We met at the ghat, and he took us to the electric crematorium where he worked. This was my first visit to an electric burner, and it turned out to be the perfect setting for Adam’s interview.

Over the next few hours, Adam and Megan asked the Doam various questions about his personal life, social status, and experiences of discrimination. To show his appreciation, Adam wanted to give a gift, so I asked the Doam about the nearest sweet shop. The Doam explained that they preferred alcohol over sweets, so we ended up buying him a bottle of whiskey instead.

Delhi Gay Pride 2009 – afterparty

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Megan and Adam were running late, so I told them to head off while I stayed behind for the party. I wandered around and eventually stopped at a bus stop, where I sat for a while. Two people, who seemed to be from rural areas, came and sat next to me. It appeared that they had also witnessed the parade and were discussing it. One of them was visibly angry about the parade. He was cursing the government and the event organizers, expressing his frustration that people were openly mocking Indian culture and that the government was allowing it.

His remarks suggested he hadn’t explored the historical and cultural aspects of Indian traditions. For instance, the *Ramayana* includes references to hijras with practices similar to those of modern gays, the *Kamasutra* discusses homosexuality, and the temples at Khajuraho feature numerous sculptures depicting same-sex relations. It seemed clear that his views were influenced by a limited understanding of Indian cultural and historical context. I haven’t visited Khajuraho, but I have read the Ramayana and looked at the Kamasutra. From these sources, it seems that India has a very old gay culture, which was accepted in society but became criminalized by the British.

After spending an hour wandering around, I returned to the place where the bus was supposed to start from. There, I met a 20-year-old student from Delhi University. I was sitting near the bus when he came over and sat next to me. He said that attending the parade had made him feel more confident and open. He mentioned that he had been shy before the parade, but the experience had helped him overcome his shyness and embrace his identity with greater assurance. He wanted to talk to me about a problem he was having with his boyfriend.

He said that his boyfriend had stopped communicating with him and had slapped him a few months ago in front of his friends. He was very upset about this and sought my advice. Despite the situation, he mentioned that his boyfriend used to love him a lot, and he found it hard to believe that they could ever break up. He was deeply in love with him. I advised him to wait a while, keep trying to contact his boyfriend, and see how things developed. He seemed quite relieved and happy to hear that he should make an effort to stay in touch.

I asked him if he had told his parents about his boyfriend, and he said no, because he was afraid they would be angry if they found out. I then asked if he would like to marry his boyfriend, and he said that’s what he wanted. When I inquired whether he thought his parents would ever accept him marrying a man, he was silent for a moment and then said no. I also asked if his friends knew about his boyfriend, and he said they did, but only a few were supportive. Most of his friends just made fun of him.

He sought my advice on how to dress to look attractive at the party. He had an extra sleeveless t-shirt that he had bought specifically for the occasion, and he also had a piece of cloth that he wanted to wrap around his waist to enhance his look. Although I’m not a fashion expert, I did my best to help him look his best. As I spoke with him, I wondered what might happen if he were forced into a marriage with a woman. He had no need to marry someone of the opposite sex, and it would be detrimental for both him and his potential bride. Many homosexual individuals in India are coerced into such marriages, which seems like a grave injustice to me.

I also noticed something interesting: many homosexual individuals were calling each other by feminine or humorous names, such as using the word “randi” (slut). I didn’t quite understand why they did this. While hijras often adopt feminine names, homosexuals usually don’t, but it seemed that they enjoyed using these names among themselves. Additionally, I found it notable that homosexuals were making fun of hijras. On the bus ride to the party, there were quite a few hijras on board as well.

Hijras are known for their distinctive clapping and hijra songs. All the hijras on the bus were singing their songs and clapping in their traditional style. However, a group of homosexual individuals being interviewed on the bus continuously mocked the hijras. They would say things like, “Oh my God! Where did these hijras come from, these randis…” At one point, a guy even stood up and loudly asked if anyone had a one-rupee coin to give to the “randi hijras,” so they would stop clapping and singing. Although there was no malice intended, it was clear that they were making fun of the hijras. Despite this, everyone seemed to be in good spirits, and it was a fun ride overall.

I really enjoyed that bus ride and will never forget it. The atmosphere was vibrant—people were laughing, singing, hugging each other, and playfully teasing one another. It was so much fun. Eventually, the bus stopped, and we arrived at M Lounge Bar in Sector 15, Noida. I had expected it to be a place with just some food, drinks, and conversation, but it turned out to be much more than I imagined. In fact, it was a disco. As soon as I stepped in, everything I saw was completely new to me, as I had never been to a disco before.

People were dancing, drinking, hugging, and kissing—I had never seen anything like it before. There was a bar in the disco, and I decided to have a drink, but I didn’t realize how expensive everything would be. While entrance was free for parade participants, the drinks, food, and cigarettes were quite costly. I had a shot of whiskey and a bottle of beer, but I still wanted more because the atmosphere was so thrilling. I was having a fantastic time. Finally, I had to leave the disco to buy some alcohol from a shop. Before I did, I ran into the organizer, Mr. Amit Agrawal, and chatted with him for a while.

He was too drunk to have a meaningful conversation, so he directed me to speak with one of the other organizers, a 25-year-old student. He mentioned that he was also gay. When I asked if he had informed his family, he said, “No.” I inquired whether he thought his parents would approve of him marrying his boyfriend, and he said he wasn’t sure. However, he was certain that he wouldn’t want to marry a girl. He mentioned that they had organized the parade without any financial assistance from NGOs, institutions, or charities. The entire event was funded by a group of gays, who had contributed their own money to make it happen.

He was quite intoxicated and gave me his mobile number, asking me to call him the next day for further discussion. After our conversation, I returned to the disco, where the party was in full swing. Everything I saw there was entirely new to me. I saw many gay couples kissing, hugging, and dancing together. One couple, with a 60+ year-old man and a 20-year-old, stood out—they had the longest kiss I’ve ever seen, lasting for about two hours. There were also hijras with their partners, and I observed them kissing as well. Additionally, a few lesbian couples were present.

It was clear that the regular patrons of the disco were taken aback; they would sit in a corner, watching the scene with shocked and curious expressions. It was evident they had never witnessed anything like this before. I don’t think any of the regular patrons danced that night; they were simply observing what was happening. It was such a fun experience. At first, it felt a bit strange and I was shocked, much like the other regulars, but after a few minutes, everything seemed normal. I felt like everyone was just enjoying themselves, and the most important thing was that they were happy. The sense of freedom and joy was palpable, and it was truly awesome to witness.

It was amusing when one of the guys came up to me, started dancing, and touched my butt. I wasn’t sure how to react at first, but after a few seconds, he left me and joined someone else. I appreciated how he respected my feelings, and I think we should extend the same respect to others. None of the LGBTQ+ individuals made fun of me, insulted me, or tried to disturb me because I was straight. I don’t understand why straight people often make fun of or insult LGBTQ+ individuals. Why can’t straight people respect gay people’s feelings in the same way they expect their own feelings to be respected?
Now that the party was over, I headed back home. I really enjoyed the party—it was an incredibly fun night. Participating in and supporting the parade, along with the exciting party, felt like one of the best things I had ever done for myself. I was scheduled to talk with two members of the organizing committee the next morning, and I was looking forward to it. However, when I called them, both said they had drunk too much the previous night and just wanted to sleep. As a result, I couldn’t speak with them. I will try to talk with them the next time I visit Delhi.
Mr. Amit had asked me to help organize a Gay Pride Parade in Benares as well, but I’m unsure if the city is ready for such an event. Overall, my experience was fantastic, and I genuinely enjoyed participating in the parade. I witnessed the struggles faced by the gay community in India, listened to their concerns, and spoke with many of them. Ultimately, I believe that they deserve equal rights—equal rights in all aspects of life and social acceptance. Although I don’t know how long it will take for them to achieve equal rights in India, it is clear that gaining social acceptance will be a long and challenging process.
The gay community exists everywhere in the world, though it may be hidden in some places due to social pressure and more visible in others due to increased awareness, education, and liberalization. I recently read a newspaper article about an NGO working with the gay community in Varanasi. The article mentioned that the NGO was assisting 1,500 gay individuals in the city. However, I believe this number is an underestimate. The actual number is likely much higher, as many gay people choose not to make their relationships public due to societal non-acceptance.
The gay community exists everywhere in the world, though it may be hidden in some places due to social pressure and more visible in others due to increased awareness, education, and liberalization. I recently read a newspaper article about an NGO working with the gay community in Varanasi. The article mentioned that the NGO was assisting 1,500 gay individuals in the city. However, I believe this number is an underestimate. The actual number is likely much higher, as many gay people choose not to make their relationships public due to societal non-acceptance.
Gay culture is private, and it’s unreasonable to assume we should know or judge what happens behind closed doors. Such thoughts are misguided. Outside of private spaces, everyone—whether homosexual or straight—engages in similar activities. When a person is born in India, they are entitled to basic human rights, including freedom of speech, freedom of thought, and equal rights. Gay culture represents a different perspective, nothing more, and everyone has the right to their own beliefs and ways of living.
Some people prefer relationships with the opposite sex, while others are attracted to the same sex. Just as those who are attracted to the opposite sex deserve to pursue their relationships freely, so too should those who are attracted to the same sex. If we advocate for equal rights, then gay individuals should be afforded the same rights as everyone else on this planet. Imagine being forcibly married to someone of the same sex; it would be an incredibly difficult situation if you were not inclined toward that relationship. The same consideration should be applied to everyone who views homosexuality as abnormal. It’s worth reflecting on.

Delhi Gay Pride 2009 – parade

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I attended the Delhi Gay Pride on the 26th and was thrilled to experience it firsthand. Having heard so much about the vibrant and festive nature of gay pride festivals, I was eager to see it for myself. I arrived in Delhi on the 24th, and Adam and Megan joined me for the parade. Although they had initially planned to go to Benares, they changed their flights to come to Delhi and be part of the event with me.

They had arranged for band performances to provide music. When I arrived, around two thousand people were already present. I asked the organizer about the expected turnout, and he mentioned that while last year they had anticipated about 500 attendees, they ended up with around 1500. This year, they were hoping for about 2500 participants. He also noted that media support had been strong the previous year and was expected to be similar this year. Indeed, there were numerous media representatives covering the event. The police were also present, though it was unclear whether their assistance was a formal obligation or a voluntary act of support, but they were definitely helping.

I spent my time wandering around and observing the festivities. Initially, I had planned to speak with the participants, but once I arrived and saw how joyful and immersed they were in the celebration, I decided against interrupting them. What struck me the most was that the parade included not just gay individuals, but also many straight people and families. There were numerous foreigners as well. I spoke with a few of them about their reasons for attending, and they all gave similar responses—primarily, they were there to support the cause.

The organizing committee had provided masks for those who wished to conceal their identities, and many participants, including straight people and families, chose to use them. While I understand that gay culture is still not fully accepted in India, which might explain why some in the LGBTQ+ community wore masks, I was puzzled by the presence of masks among straight participants. If they were so reluctant to be seen, I questioned why they were participating at all. I believe that it’s important for everyone to step forward and openly support the cause; only through such visibility and advocacy can the gay community in India achieve the recognition and acceptance it deserves.

I overheard some LGBTQ+ individuals speaking with the media. When asked about their experiences, they all shared similar sentiments: they feel ridiculed and believe they lack equal rights. As the parade began, the atmosphere was charged with energy, joy, and happiness. The band had started playing, and everyone was in high spirits. Many people danced with their partners, while others danced alone, waving the rainbow flag high. The parade was scheduled to start at 5 PM, but as with many things in India, it was delayed. This was the first time I didn’t mind the delay.

Finally, around 5:45 PM, the parade began. The vibrant energy, joy, and happiness I witnessed were only matched by a previous experience I had in Mehndiganj in 2007 during a rally against Coca-Cola. There was loud music, people jumping, shouting, dancing, and laughing—it was exhilarating. The atmosphere and the people filled me with an incredible sense of energy. A massive rainbow flag, carried by nearly twenty people, was a highlight of the parade. They jumped and danced with it, creating a stunning visual effect. The music was vibrant, and the whole scene was absolutely exhilarating.

The participants of the parade were very modern and liberal in their attire. Many had customized masks, caps, hats, and outfits. I saw several girls dressed in just shorts and bras, adorned with tattoos—something quite uncommon in India. The hijras also attended, dressed in a way that was noticeably different from their usual attire. As the parade began to move, more and more people joined in. A large number of students arrived, and by this point, the crowd had swelled to around 3,000 participants. Many onlookers stood along both sides of the road, watching the parade with interest.

I noticed people emerging from restaurants and shops, eagerly joining the festivities. The participants carried a variety of banners, posters, and flyers, each with different slogans emblazoned on their clothing and bodies. Many participants had their faces painted in vibrant rainbow colors. I had brought around 100 HIV & AIDS educational pamphlets to distribute among the crowd, and Adam and Megan kindly helped me with this task. We handed out the pamphlets quickly, but I noticed an interesting pattern: while some people were hesitant to take a pamphlet, others were very eager. A few individuals even approached us specifically asking for one.

One elderly man took a pamphlet and returned to Adam, expressing a desire to discuss the material inside. Adam asked the elderly man to speak with me, and he approached me with a question. He asked if I worked in HIV & AIDS, to which I confirmed. He then inquired if I supported the gay community and gay rights, and I affirmed that I did. However, he raised a surprising point. He questioned how I could support gay rights while working on HIV & AIDS, asserting that gays are responsible for the spread of HIV worldwide. His tone was somewhat agitated, and while I wanted to engage in a discussion about his perspective, the parade was moving, so I handed him my business card and suggested we continue the conversation at a later time.

He never reached out to me again, but it was disheartening to hear him blame the gay community for the spread of HIV & AIDS. While it’s true that gay men are at a higher risk of contracting HIV compared to heterosexual individuals, that doesn’t mean they are solely responsible for its spread. Many argue that gay people often practice safer sex compared to straights. I believe that the Indian government’s handling of HIV & AIDS programs and the corruption within the public health sector play a larger role in the spread of the disease, rather than the gay community itself.

I also spoke with a gay man who was interviewed by a journalist. He mentioned that he had been in a gay relationship for the past five years and was proud of it. He pointed out that gay individuals are often more knowledgeable about safe sex and STDs than heterosexuals, highlighting that education and awareness are crucial in managing health risks. The journalist asked him if he had informed his family about his sexuality, and he shared that while his father was aware, his mother sometimes referred to him as part of the hijra community. It’s clear that many people still confuse gays with hijras, not understanding the differences between them.

When the parade reached Jantar Mantar, it came to a stop for a series of speeches by social activists, gay rights supporters, NGO representatives, and a few participants. Some of those who had been wearing masks during the parade removed them when they took the stage. It was striking to see the shift in their demeanor—from being shy earlier to confidently expressing themselves in front of the crowd. The change in their confidence was palpable and marked a powerful moment of visibility and solidarity. The speakers declared loudly that they were no longer shy and were proud to be gay.

The speeches covered various topics, including Section 377 and other LGBTQ+ rights issues. As a symbolic gesture, the organizer invited everyone to light a candle. I joined in and lit a candle myself. With the parade concluded, the focus shifted to the party, which was set to begin at 9:30 PM at M Lounge bar in Sector 15, Noida. It was around 7 o’clock, and the organizers asked participants to regroup at 8:30. They had arranged several buses to transport everyone to the party venue. I was eagerly looking forward to the celebration.