Tag Archives: walking tours varanasi

Traveller’s Choice Award 2020 for Groovy Tours

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I have been using Tripadvisor to promote my tour business since 2014 which gives me most of my business. Based on the ratings and reviews given by the customers Tripadvisor choses certain companies every year and gives them an yearly award. All the way starting from 2014 I started receiving Certificate of Excellence award, then they gave me Hall of Fame award in the year 2018 (Hall of Fame is given to the service providers who get Certificate of Excellence continuously five years in a row) and now this year I have been given Traveller’s Choice Award for the year 2020. It is always a great feeling to see that your guests appreciate your services and it becomes more special when it happens again and again every year 🙂 Thanks for all your support, Jai Hind!

Shivratri 2010

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It was Shivratri on the 12th, and I was incredibly excited for it. Shivratri is the biggest festival in Varanasi, celebrated as the wedding anniversary of Lord Shiva. There are over six thousand temples in Varanasi, but only 11 of them organize a wedding parade for Lord Shiva. The parade begins at various temples and culminates near the Vishwanath Temple (the Golden Temple). The most popular and grandest parade starts at the Mahamrityunjay Temple and is the final parade of the day. I attended the parade with my friends, and it was absolutely amazing.

Lord Shiva and Parvati

Bhang, which is associated with Lord Shiva and an integral part of Varanasi’s culture, is consumed by many people during the festival as a blessing from Lord Shiva. People take a bath in the Ganges, perform rituals at Shiva temples, offer bhang, and then consume it. The entire city is decorated with lights, free bhang drinks are served everywhere, and people come out to join the festivities. It’s so much fun—I love this festival. It is said that during Lord Shiva’s wedding, a diverse array of characters participated, including gods, goddesses, ghosts, demons, and more. Consequently, the wedding parade featured all sorts of characters.

The parade included people wearing ghost masks, individuals dressed as gods and goddesses, snake charmers, hijras, and various animals like cows, bulls, goats, dogs, horses, and elephants. There were people smoking ganja, and the scene was quite chaotic. One man dressed as Lord Shiva was leading the parade. He was extremely high on bhang, almost sleeping while walking. I had seen the same man in last year’s parade, and I suspect he was deliberately given a lot of bhang, as he was also nearly unconscious last year. He struggled to walk, would occasionally faint, and either walked slowly with his eyes closed, danced, or fainted. I doubt Lord Shiva fainted at his wedding, but Varanasi’s bhang certainly has that effect on people!

ghost

The man carried a trident and a damru, and wore a dhatura garland. He performed the Tandav dance for a short time, then would faint. As he fainted or fell asleep, people chanted “Har Har Mahadev” (a chant for Lord Shiva) and “Jago Baba” (meaning “wake up, baba”) to rouse him. The noise from thousands of people shouting “Har Har Mahadev” was deafening, and I thoroughly enjoyed it. I’m not sure how anyone can survive after consuming so much bhang, but he seemed to be holding on.

Character playing Lord Shiva fainted due to intoxication of Bhang

The festival featured loud music, with drums playing everywhere, but I particularly enjoyed the Nagada drum. The Nagada is a traditional Varanasi instrument used in both wedding and funeral parades. We take pride in our Nagada performances. Josh, wanting to try bhang, bought a glass of bhang lassi without consulting me. He expected it to have an immediate effect like alcohol, but bhang takes time to work. Later, he asked me for more bhang lassi, so I took him to a reputable shop, not realizing he had already consumed some.

Bhang Thandai

After drinking more than half a glass of bhang lassi, Josh said it wasn’t making him high, and I explained it would take some time. He asked how long, and I told him at least two hours. He then revealed he had already drunk a glass of bhang lassi an hour earlier. I advised against drinking a second glass, but he insisted he could handle it. Although I knew two glasses of bhang were too much, he believed he’d be fine. It’s been over 48 hours since his second glass, and he’s still asleep in his room. When I asked if he would ever drink bhang again, he said never.

elephants were also there

Many documentaries have been made about Varanasi and its festivals, but none focus specifically on this one. I had planned to film the festival but couldn’t due to my commitments with Josh’s project and a lack of resources. Now, Josh wants to help me make a documentary about the festival, and I’m really looking forward to it. I’ll do my best to capture the essence of this festival, and I’m sure it will be a lot of fun. The festival is over now, and I’m already excited for next year. Har Har Mahadev!

Lord Shiva

Project for the guide training program

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After completing the classroom teaching and orientation tour, I’m now set to begin fieldwork in my local town for the next two months. Initially, I was eager to explore LGBT tourism as my project because it’s a relatively untapped area in India and would allow me to connect my NGO work and research on the LGBT community with this project. However, I had to reconsider due to advice from friends and others who cautioned against it. They pointed out that a professor’s approval can often depend on personal preferences.

Given that LGBT tourism is a new and controversial concept in India and faces significant opposition, there was a risk that my professor might not support it. This seemed plausible given the widespread negativity toward the LGBT community in India. So, I decided to shift my focus to ecotourism. I initially planned to promote the rock paintings and waterfalls in Mirzapur district. My research showed that Mirzapur, with its untapped potential for ecotourism, had no existing tours being marketed. However, just two days before I was supposed to finalize my project with the institute, I read a news article about three foreigners being robbed at a well-known waterfall in Mirzapur.

Since some parts of Mirzapur are Naxalite-affected, this raised significant concerns about safety. Promoting a destination with such risks would be irresponsible. With my initial plan off the table, my only remaining option was to focus on Benares, which I had hoped to avoid. Previous projects on Benares have mainly covered heritage, culture, and mythology—topics I wasn’t particularly excited about. Tourists today are different from those of the past; they’re more interested in social issues, society, and politics rather than just history. Thus, I chose to focus on Benares with the topic “Benares: A Place for Everyone.” My professor approved of this subject, noting that it was unique and more engaging than a history-focused project.

My interest in this subject stems from Varanasi’s remarkable diversity. Although I’m not entirely sure if it’s the most diverse city in India, it certainly has a rich mix of cultures and religions. I plan to explore how Benares serves as a significant place for Hindus, Muslims, Buddhists, Jains, Sikhs, and Christians. Despite the small Christian population, there are several old churches that deserve attention. I also want to highlight how Benares, traditionally known as a city where Hindus come to die, has transformed into a vibrant hub for migrants seeking employment and a new life. This shift from a city of death to a city of life is a fascinating development that I want to investigate.

I have a lot of ideas for this project, but I’m unsure about the scope and how well I can incorporate my thoughts into the report. Nonetheless, I’m excited about the opportunity and looking forward to diving into this diverse and dynamic subject.

Guide training program – week 7

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The seventh week of the guide training program wrapped up with an orientation tour through Agra, Jaipur, and Delhi. Our first stop was Agra, where we visited four major monuments: the Taj Mahal, the Red Fort, Sikandara (the Tomb of Akbar), and Itmad-ud-Daula. With one guide for fifty participants, navigating Agra was quite the experience. The water there was notably sour, so we were advised to stick to bottled water. The city was bustling with touts constantly trying to sell something near the monuments, and we were taken to several tourist shops that were impressively large.

These shops, which also provided our meals, saw the tour as an opportunity to showcase their products. Although the items were significantly overpriced—often ten times the market rate—the quality was excellent. It was a lucrative deal for them to host two hundred tour guides at once. In Jaipur, we visited Jaigarh Fort, Amber Fort, City Palace, and Jantar Mantar. The water quality in Jaipur was as poor as in Agra. While I enjoyed most of the monuments, the City Palace stood out as particularly commercial. Only a small part of the palace was open to visitors; access to other areas required extra fees, which varied based on the visitor’s profile.

The City Palace also had its own licensing system, which meant that even government-approved tour guides had to either hire a City Palace guide or pay additional fees. The City Palace allowed various events, including birthday celebrations, for a price, and even offered the option to have the king himself welcome guests. Delhi, as expected, was chaotic. I learned that TGFI (Tour Guide Federation of India) had instructed local guides not to train us during our Delhi visit. Consequently, our institute struggled to find a guide, eventually having to hire a monument guide. TGFI’s opposition to our training program was evident, as they had previously sued the government over it. Their protest was a clear sign of their dissatisfaction.

The shops in Delhi, unlike those in Jaipur and Agra, were less accommodating. Although they organized our meals, the overall experience did not match the quality and hospitality we encountered in the other cities. Despite the challenges, the tour was valuable. I did not gain extensive knowledge due to the high guide-to-participant ratio, but the experience was still worthwhile. Looking ahead, I plan to start my career in Varanasi after obtaining my license. I intend to study the city thoroughly before considering work in other locations. Eventually, I may explore other cities, hire guides, and expand my knowledge to enhance my proficiency as a tour guide.

Guide training program – week 6

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The final week of classroom teaching has concluded, and it was a diverse and insightful week. We covered a range of topics including Jaipur, Indo-Islamic architecture, emergency procedures, gems and jewelry, Jainism, the business history of India, and project report preparation. While all the classes were informative, the one on “Things to Do in Any Emergency” stood out as the most memorable. The class was delivered by a retired Air India air hostess, and her approach was refreshingly candid.

She covered essential topics such as medical emergencies, sex, homosexuality, HIV/AIDS, and other STIs. Her openness about these subjects was unprecedented in our training. She provided practical advice on what to do if a tourist makes inappropriate sexual advances. She emphasized that while it is ultimately our choice whether to engage in such activities, if we decide to proceed, using condoms is crucial to reduce the risk of STI transmission. Her focus on HIV/AIDS was particularly notable; she shared her own experiences from her career in the service sector, highlighting the importance of safe practices.

Her discussion on homosexuality was equally enlightening. Although I was already familiar with the basics, many in the class found it new and eye-opening. She encouraged participants to embrace their sexuality and communicate openly with their families. She also discussed recent legal advancements, such as the High Court judgment supporting LGBTQ+ rights in India. She criticized the outdated belief that homosexuality is a disease and debunked the misconception that marriage to an opposite-sex partner could “cure” it.

The air hostess’s candidness about such sensitive topics was striking. In a setting where discussing sex and sexuality is often taboo, her willingness to address these issues was both bold and appreciated. The lecture was engaging and left a significant impact on everyone. On the final day of the week, all participants gathered in the institute’s auditorium for a certificate presentation. This certificate will be useful for engaging with government officials regarding our projects. Female participants were specially acknowledged on stage to encourage their participation, with the institute stressing the need for more female tour guides in the Indian tourism industry.

Overall, the week was both educational and inspiring, providing us with valuable knowledge and practical skills for our future careers.

Guide training program – week 5

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I’ve completed five weeks of training in Gwalior, and now only one more week of classroom sessions remains before we head out for the tour. This past week was quite engaging. We covered a range of topics including Indian Buddhism, Indian archaeology and rock painting, conservation, Kailash Mansarovar, Ayurveda, the Taj Mahal, Indian classical music, vocal and dance, virtual reality in tourism, and travel legislation. Among these, the classes on Indian Buddhism and the Taj Mahal were the highlights, while the sessions on conservation and Indian classical music were less enjoyable.

The conservation class was particularly challenging. The lecturer spoke at an incredibly fast pace for two continuous hours, covering slide after slide without much opportunity for interaction or questions. He even insisted that we use the restroom before the class began and kept the door locked to avoid disruptions. It was overwhelming and left little room for engagement or clarification. Similarly, the Indian classical music, vocal, and dance class was a bit of a letdown. While the performances were entertaining—featuring live music and dance—the lecture itself was poorly structured.

We were introduced to complex concepts and ragas without sufficient foundational knowledge, making it difficult to follow and understand. On the other hand, the class on Indian Buddhism was one of the best I’ve experienced. The lecturer, a professor of Buddhism from Delhi University, brought a unique perspective. Although he was initially scheduled to talk about Indian Buddhism, he quickly shifted focus to broader topics like Indian politics, social issues, and personal insights. His engaging discussion included fascinating tidbits, such as the fact that over 40% of heart attacks in the US and Canada occur on Mondays due to work pressure. His lecture was both informative and entertaining, and his candidness made it particularly enjoyable.

Our upcoming tour schedule is now finalized. The classroom sessions at the Gwalior center will conclude on the 18th, and we’ll travel to Agra the evening of the same day. Our training in Agra will take place on the 19th and 20th, with a day off on the 21st. We’ll then proceed to Jaipur for training on the 22nd and 23rd, followed by another day off on the 24th. Our final training sessions will be held in Delhi on the 25th and 26th. During this tour, we’ll need to arrange our own lodging and meals, but the institute will provide transportation and bring in experts for our training.

Guide training program – week 3

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Half of the training is now complete. I have three weeks of classroom instruction and one week of orientation tour remaining before I begin my fieldwork. I am very excited about this next phase. I’ve discussed my fieldwork topic, LGBT tourism, with other participants, and they’ve raised concerns that the institute may not approve it. This is troubling, but I’m determined to address it. I’m gathering basic information about LGBT tourism to present a strong case to my professor for approving my topic.

If my proposed subject isn’t approved, I’m considering focusing on either eco-tourism or rural tourism. I’m not interested in traditional Indian tourism subjects like heritage or culture, although I will need to learn about these topics and include information on the heritage and culture of Benares in my research. Specializing in LGBT tourism would be unique in India, and it would be a significant advantage if the institute accepts it. If LGBT tourism is not approved, I’d like to explore eco-tourism in Mirzapur district. Located just 75 km from Benares, Mirzapur is rich in natural beauty.

Our professors discussed the caves, cave temples, and rock paintings of Mirzapur, which I find fascinating. Despite its lack of promotion as a tourist destination, Mirzapur offers many opportunities with its waterfalls, dams, rivers, lakes, and hills. I’m considering starting trekking and camping tours there. Even if my LGBT tourism subject is approved, I would still promote and work in Mirzapur. Its rural setting offers great potential for rural tourism as well. I’m very enthusiastic about this project.

This week featured some engaging lectures. One guest speaker, Mr. Pandya, a tour guide who won the Best Tour Guide Award in 2008, shared his experiences. He is reportedly the highest-paid tour guide in India. Unlike most tour guides who stay in budget hotels while their clients enjoy luxury accommodations, Mr. Pandya stays in the same five-star hotels as his clients. His high rates and personal rules mean he only takes on five or six assignments a year. He charges $100 per day, which doesn’t seem excessive to me, as I sometimes earn that much working as a translator.

He also emphasized the importance of improving our accents, noting that while Indians have their own English, we should aim to speak the version used by tourists. I also learned a new term this week: “Chabbi,” which means commission in the tourism sector. A Muslim professor, an expert on tourism in Jammu & Kashmir, discussed how he initially avoided taking commissions from shopkeepers due to religious reasons but has since accepted it as part of the global tourism system. He mentioned that in some countries, it’s referred to as profit-sharing, which can be a more acceptable term for Muslims. He also noted that if he doesn’t bring clients to travel agency stores, he risks losing his job.

We had other fascinating lectures this week on topics such as tourism offices in India and abroad, Islam, female foreign tourists in India, the condition of women in medieval Indian history, eco-tourism, water tourism, adventure tourism, India’s architectural heritage, the Kamasutra, and Khajuraho sculptures. I asked the professor discussing the Kamasutra whether it addresses homosexuality, and he mentioned that homosexuality has been present for a long time, even noting that Babar had male partners. He also remarked that Afghanistan currently has a strong gay culture. Additionally, during a lecture on Islam by a professor from Jamia Millia Islamia University, a participant inquired about the condition of women in Islam.

The professor responded that the condition of women is poor across all religions. When another participant pointed out the relatively liberal treatment of women in Hindu society, the professor simply smiled and referenced the Agni Pariksha of Sita, then left the classroom abruptly. Overall, I’m thoroughly enjoying the program and looking forward to the remaining four weeks of training.

Guide training program – introduction

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I arrived in Gwalior today to start the tour guide training program. Since I only received the information about the training 10 days ago, I wasn’t able to arrange my accommodation in advance. Upon arrival, I stayed in a dharamshala for the night. I had reached out to a friend in Delhi who is also part of the program about finding a rental apartment in Gwalior. He arrived today with a friend who is pursuing a PhD in Urdu at Jawaharlal Nehru University.

My friend, Prem, had contacted someone in Gwalior to help us find an apartment. After arriving, he met his contact, who showed us a few options near the training venue. We ultimately selected a 2 BHK apartment close to the institute. While we have some mats and basic household items, there is a significant issue with the water here. The tap water isn’t safe to drink, and there are no shops selling branded bottled water. I’m confident we’ll find a solution soon.

On the bright side, I’ve purchased an internet data card, so I’ll have 24-hour internet access while in Gwalior. My training begins tomorrow, and I’m very excited to get started!

My bed for next two months

My bed for next two months

Guide Association forbids new guides

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There is a new issue with the tour guide training program that was scheduled to start on October 6th. The Guide Association of Jaipur has sued the government, arguing that the training program should be extended to four months, as it was for previous guides. They are unhappy with the new structure, which includes 45 days of classes, a 15-day orientation tour, and the submission of an assignment report. They believe the program should be the same as it was before, with continuous classes for four months.

Although the current program is designed to last for four months in total, the changes from the previous format have led to dissatisfaction among the old guides. They are concerned that the new structure, which includes additional requirements, will affect their established routines. The court has now ordered the government to halt the training program until further notice.

I believe the revised program is actually an improvement over the previous one. However, it seems that the old guides are resistant to change, possibly because they fear competition from newer entrants into the industry. Despite the shortage of professional tour guides in India and the upcoming Commonwealth Games in 2010, these seasoned guides appear to be delaying the program to protect their positions. I’ve observed some guides who, rather than actively engaging with clients, have been inattentive or relied on escorts to interact with clients.

The current training program is crucial preparation for the Commonwealth Games, and with limited time available, I hope the government will address these issues promptly. Once the situation is resolved, the old guides will need to enhance their skills, or they may face being sidelined as the industry evolves.

Gwalior for tour guide training

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On the 27th, I traveled to Gwalior for counseling regarding the tour guide training program. My train was delayed by two hours, so I arrived at 10:30 AM, giving me nearly four hours before the counseling session was scheduled to start at 3 PM. I had heard a lot about the Gwalior Fort, so I decided to explore it. I took an auto rickshaw to the fort and reached by 11:00 AM. Gwalior Fort is massive and unlike any fort I’ve seen before. Perched 300 feet atop a hill, it features a nearly 2-kilometer-long inclined road leading to its entrance.

Within the fort, I visited the Mansingh Palace, the Sas-Bahu Temple, the Sikh Gurudwara, and the Teli Temple. Despite having three hours to explore, I quickly realized that the fort was far too vast to see everything in that time. I tried to find a guidebook or some information about the fort, but there were no tourist resources available. The ticket counter at the entrance listed a ticket price of twenty paise, a denomination that hasn’t been used for years, suggesting that updates were long overdue. The only refreshment option was a single coffee shop.

I had hoped to catch the evening sound and light show but didn’t have enough time. I particularly enjoyed the Sas-Bahu Temple, which was adorned with intricate carvings that are around 500 years old. While at the fort, a group of young Sikh men approached me for a photo. Afterward, one of the youngest, who looked about thirteen or fourteen, advised me to wake up early. I was taken aback as he seemed to know about my nocturnal habits. He then began to ask for money, starting at fifty rupees and eventually reducing his demand to just two rupees, but I didn’t give him any.

Following the Sas-Bahu Temple, I visited the Man Singh Palace, built by Raja Man Singh Tomar in 1508. The palace was later captured by the Mughals and used as a special jail for important prisoners. It was the only palace I’d seen with colorful tiles on its walls, adding to its unique beauty. I was approached by several people offering to guide me, but with only thirty minutes left, I decided against it. In retrospect, a guide might have been helpful as the palace was quite complex, reminiscent of Lucknow’s Bada Imambada.

I then proceeded to the counseling center, where I was surprised to see many attendees over the age of thirty-five, some even over fifty. Initially, I thought they might be parents of the students, but they were actually individuals who had passed the exam. It seems these experienced guides were seeking licenses to formalize their status, as they frequently face challenges from government guides and ASI officers. The institute was impressive, featuring a computer lab, library, auditorium, and well-maintained grounds, all air-conditioned. The counseling was divided into two parts: document verification and registration.

I first had to get my documents verified in a separate room where three employees checked my certificates and their attested copies. After this, I filled out a form with details like my name, roll number, marks, batch preferences, and center. I had hoped to join the New Delhi center for the second batch, but it was fully booked, so I was assigned to the Gwalior center instead. The training fee was Rs. 2000, covering the library, computer lab, and teaching costs. The training will start on January 5th and last for 45 days, followed by a week-long tour.

Afterward, I’ll be assigned a city or tourist region to research and write a report on, which must be completed within ten weeks. An exam and interview will follow, and upon passing, a tour guide license will be issued. By 5 PM, with my train back to Benares at 8:40 PM, I left the institute and walked to the railway station, which was about 5 kilometers away. Walking allowed me to see more of Gwalior, a city that, while smaller than Benares, appeared more organized with better traffic, housing, and greenery. On the train, I met a fellow Benares resident who had also qualified for the exam.

He had been working with Japanese tourists but was unhappy due to their perceived lack of generosity. Now that he would have a license, he planned to work with tourists from wealthier countries like the US or Britain. He mentioned that many Japanese-speaking guides in Delhi can’t read or write Japanese, having learned the language through conversation. However, future exams will be conducted in various languages, which might address this issue. Overall, the trip to Gwalior was short but productive. I completed the counseling process, explored the fort, and had a pleasant walk around the city. I’m looking forward to my training period in Gwalior.