Monthly Archives: October 2008

A kiss could be really dangerous sometimes

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Richard Gere kissed Shilpa Shetty in public during an AIDS awareness event, which led to legal trouble. The event, where Shilpa Shetty, a Bollywood actress, was hosting, featured Gere, who has been involved with various NGOs in India working to educate people about AIDS. During the event, Gere spontaneously kissed Shilpa on the cheeks. Initially, the audience reacted with excitement, cheering and clapping, as seeing a Bollywood actress being kissed publicly was a rare and entertaining sight. However, the incident sparked controversy when a Hindu organization filed a lawsuit against Gere, accusing him of engaging in sexual activity in public.

As a result, Gere had to appear in court multiple times. The outcome of the case remains unclear, but it’s evident that both Gere and Shilpa would have preferred to avoid such legal complications. A similar public kissing controversy involved Bollywood actress Rakhi Sawant and singer Mika Singh. At Mika’s birthday party, Rakhi initially kissed Mika on the cheek, and in response, Mika kissed Rakhi on the lips. This incident also drew significant attention and public discussion. After this kiss, Rakhi went to the police and lodged a case against Mika for kissing her forcibly.

Mika Singh and Rakhi Sawant

Mika said that she started first so he also kissed her. She kissed Mika on his cheeks and Mika kissed on her lips, that’s all. But Rakhi did not agree to hear anything. She was crying in front of media people, and was saying that Mika forcebly kissed her. She said that she was an Indian girl. She can get kissed on cheeks but not on the lips. It was one of the funniest things I had ever heard.  All this drama was just to get publicity. Later they compromised and case was taken back by Rakhi.

I met my friend Sharad yesterday who works at DHL, New Delhi. He books the parcels. He said that few days ago a foreign couple came and booked a 1.5 kilo parcel. As they entered in the office, they started kissing each other. Then they went to my friend and gave him the parcel. After giving the parcel, they were kissing until the booking process was done. Later they got a call from another office saying that they had found a packet of heroin booked by a foreign couple. This call was to alert all other offices to not accept any package from such a couple.

It made my friend remember about the couple who had booked a package. They checked the packet and found that it was also a heroin packet. This couple had booked the same kind of packet at two different offices. They did the same thing at all the offices- gave the packet and started kissing. Other offices had also accepted the parcel, but it was caught during the screening process. I am sure foreigners know that we don’t kiss in public, but this couple was still doing it just because they knew that Indians would not be able to concentrate if someone was kissing in front of them.

There are lots of stories in our religious books when demons sent girls to disturb saints and stop them from meditating. In some cases girls were able to do what they wanted to. Now it seems like we have to learn how to fight against this new Western weapon.

Effect of inflation on celebration of Diwali

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Inflation is severely impacting India these days. Everything is at least twice as expensive as it used to be. Diwali was yesterday, but it didn’t feel like the Diwali of five or six years ago. Typically, people buy lots of crackers, new clothes, and bring something new into their homes, but this year, it was quite different. It seemed like most people just stayed at home, cooked food, and decorated their homes. Very few people set off fireworks. While it’s beneficial for the environment to have fewer crackers, something still felt missing.

Many people avoided buying crackers this year because of the high prices. Normally, the chemicals used to make crackers are imported from China, where they are relatively cheap. However, this year, China used most of these chemicals for the Olympics, leading to delays in supply to India. As a result, Indian factories had to source the chemicals locally, driving up the cost significantly. Consequently, crackers became at least twice as expensive.

The primary reason behind the reduced use of crackers is the overall rise in living costs in India. People are struggling financially and are prioritizing their essential needs over celebrations. For instance, I bought tomatoes for Rs. 50 per kilo, which is unprecedentedly high. Uncle Udo mentioned that tomatoes cost Rs. 70-80 per kilo in Germany, so while the prices are somewhat comparable, the income disparity between the two countries is enormous.

I understand that agricultural products tend to be more expensive in developed countries, but the situation here is still troubling. I spoke to many people about their Diwali celebrations, and most of them said it was lackluster due to inflation. If this trend continues, many middle-class families could fall into poverty again.

Diwali 2008

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Yesterday was Diwali, and I had a fantastic time celebrating. I had invited a few Couchsurfers to join the festivities—two students from the US and two travelers from the UK. They arrived at my home around 6 o’clock, and we spent some time sharing our travel experiences in India. Later, my Uncle Udo joined us. My mother started the evening with a puja, and then we decorated the entire house with candles. Typically, I don’t buy or light fireworks, but this year I had plenty because some friends had brought them.

We went up to the roof to set off the crackers. It was the first time in fifteen years that I had fired crackers myself. I’m not a fan of fireworks because they pollute the atmosphere. The smoke from the crackers was noticeable, and I prefer decorating with candles, enjoying good food, and hosting dinner parties. Many people in Varanasi gamble during Diwali night, and although I gambled for the first time last year at Bunti’s family place, I couldn’t make it this year despite their invitation. Diwali is particularly significant for Aghoris, who perform a special puja at a cremation ground between midnight and 1 a.m.

I was keen to witness this but missed it again this year because the person who was supposed to accompany me didn’t call. I waited for him, but by the time it was past 1 o’clock, it was too late to go. After firing the crackers, we had a delicious dinner with plenty of sweets—it was a delightful evening. I had heard warnings about foreign girls facing threats in Varanasi after dark, but I hadn’t taken them seriously, thinking they were exaggerated. However, when Abbie and Emily, the US students, expressed concern about walking back to their guesthouse alone, I accompanied them. This experience made me realize that the guidebooks were right.

As we walked, people commented on the foreign girls. Some offered them crackers to light, others complimented their looks, and a few tried to harass them. It was overwhelming and eye-opening. I had never encountered such behavior around the Assi neighborhood before; perhaps it is more prevalent in the downtown area. Despite the unwanted attention, they eventually reached their guesthouse safely, and I returned home.

First Kiwi guest at home

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About three months ago, a 55-year-old man from Auckland contacted me through Couchsurfing. He wanted information about Varanasi and expressed a desire to travel with someone. He even asked if I would be interested in being his tour guide for all of India. I was thrilled and immediately agreed to the offer. However, he later informed me that he had found many hosts in India, so he canceled his plan to hire me as his tour guide. We stayed in touch online over the next few months, and he finally arrived in Varanasi on the 6th.

I went to meet him at his hotel, where he gave me an iPod and a coat as gifts. He was interested in experiencing general Indian life, so he wanted to stay at my place. However, since he had already booked the hotel for two nights, he planned to come to my home after that. During Navratri, I took him on a tour of Varanasi. My friends and I usually visit the pandals during the night, so I took Chris along. We spent the whole night exploring and returned home around 3 a.m.

After his two-night hotel stay, Chris came to stay at my place. He was interested in visiting a local church to buy old vestments and other items used by churches in Varanasi. We went to the cantonment church, which is only 15 years old. Chris wanted to meet the bishop, but he was not in Varanasi. Instead, we met his assistant, who informed us that they did not have any old items. He suggested churches in Mumbai, Goa, and South India as alternatives.

Chris stayed with me for 15 days, though he originally planned to stay only 10. He had to extend his stay because he fell ill. He mentioned that he had eaten a samosa from a street vendor and became very sick, suffering from diarrhea, vomiting, and headaches. I took him to a doctor, but his condition did not improve, so he requested to be admitted to a hospital. I took him to Heritage Hospital, where the doctors said it was not an emergency case and did not want to admit him. However, Chris insisted on staying.

The hospital charged Rs. 15,000 (about US $400) for the services. I was shocked at the high cost for treating diarrhea. Chris was admitted to a special ward for two days. The charges included Rs. 3,500 per day for the room, Rs. 600 for the doctor’s visit, and various other fees that seemed arbitrary. Although I had heard about the $100 handshake in US hospitals, I was surprised to find a similar system in my own town. I asked Lane about it, and he noted that it was still cheaper than Western hospitals.

One interesting aspect was that everyone in the hospital was eager to know if Chris had health insurance. When I asked the doctor why this was important, he explained that foreigners usually have insurance, and the hospital charges them extra if they do. This practice seemed illegal to me, but it was conducted openly, like many other illicit activities in India. They were not even embarrassed to admit it.

After two days, Chris was eager to leave. He complained that the nurses neglected him, didn’t change his drip, failed to provide medicine, and didn’t offer food. I spoke with the doctor, who insisted that Chris stay for at least two more days. However, Chris was determined to leave, so the doctor agreed to discharge him with a few medicines. Chris was relieved to return home and left for Mumbai on the 24th.

Pittsburgh girl studies Hindi

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A girl named Abbie from Pittsburgh reached out to me through Couchsurfing, inquiring about Hindi classes in Varanasi. I recommended she contact Mr. Virendra Singh. Although she had previously written to Bhasha Bharti, she hadn’t received a response. I asked Mr. Singh if he had availability for another student, and fortunately, he had an hour free. At the time, Abbie was still in Bhopal, so I advised her to get in touch with me once she arrived in Varanasi. I also thought it would be beneficial for her to meet Udo, another Hindi student staying at my place.

Abbie called me on the 21st. I invited her to my home to introduce her to Udo, but he was out at the time. Instead, I took her to Mr. Singh’s place. After meeting him, Abbie decided she would like to continue her Hindi studies with him for the rest of her time in India. Although she had already studied Hindi for three months in Indore, she felt she hadn’t learned much because her teacher there was a mathematics teacher, not a qualified Hindi instructor.

After her initial lesson with Mr. Singh, Abbie traveled to Khajuraho but plans to return by next Monday. With three months left in India, she has ample time to learn basic Hindi. I hope she makes good progress with Mr. Singh. Although she had hoped to stay at my place, I was unable to host her as all my rooms were already booked. Instead, she is staying at Ganga Yogi Lodge near Sonarpura, which fits her budget.

Udo from Germany learns some Hindi

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I have been hosting a German student named Udo, who is 58 years old and eager to learn Hindi in Varanasi. Uncle Udo reached out to me about a month ago after finding my email address through my Hospitality Club profile. He used to be a professor of German and has worked at various universities in England, Germany, and Japan. Currently, he owns a language school in Munich but does not teach there. Instead, he assesses unemployed individuals for government assistance.

When I asked Uncle Udo why he wanted to learn Hindi at his age, he shared an interesting story. A few years ago, a friend had given him a Hindi grammar book as a birthday gift, which he had never looked at. While cleaning his cupboard a couple of years back, he rediscovered the book and decided it was time to learn Hindi. He believes that starting something new is a great way to keep the mind active in old age, and I found this idea quite inspiring. Uncle Udo had already been studying Hindi online for three years and was familiar with the sounds and grammar.

When Udo asked me about Hindi classes in Varanasi, I recommended Professor Virendra Singh. At that time, Mr. Singh was not in Varanasi but was expected to return by the first week of October. I advised Udo to continue researching alternative Hindi teachers in case Mr. Singh did not return on time. Udo mentioned Mr. Binit Mishra, whom he found online, and who was reportedly located near my home, though I had never heard of him.

Udo arrived at my home on October 6th. On his first day, we went to meet Virendra Singh, who had indeed returned to Varanasi and resumed teaching. Mr. Singh agreed to teach Udo for one hour each day, which delighted him. Given Udo’s background as a professor, he wanted a qualified instructor, which was why he had not considered other schools in Varanasi.

Since starting his lessons with Mr. Singh, Udo has been very pleased with the instruction he’s received. He regards Mr. Singh as the best Hindi professor he has ever met. Although his Hindi is not perfect, he has made significant progress and his proficiency is far beyond what most people achieve after just two weeks of classes. Udo plans to visit Khajuraho and Gwalior before leaving India in ten days. He hopes to return to Varanasi next year to continue his Hindi studies and to experience festivals like Shivratri and Holi.

Guide Association forbids new guides

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There is a new issue with the tour guide training program that was scheduled to start on October 6th. The Guide Association of Jaipur has sued the government, arguing that the training program should be extended to four months, as it was for previous guides. They are unhappy with the new structure, which includes 45 days of classes, a 15-day orientation tour, and the submission of an assignment report. They believe the program should be the same as it was before, with continuous classes for four months.

Although the current program is designed to last for four months in total, the changes from the previous format have led to dissatisfaction among the old guides. They are concerned that the new structure, which includes additional requirements, will affect their established routines. The court has now ordered the government to halt the training program until further notice.

I believe the revised program is actually an improvement over the previous one. However, it seems that the old guides are resistant to change, possibly because they fear competition from newer entrants into the industry. Despite the shortage of professional tour guides in India and the upcoming Commonwealth Games in 2010, these seasoned guides appear to be delaying the program to protect their positions. I’ve observed some guides who, rather than actively engaging with clients, have been inattentive or relied on escorts to interact with clients.

The current training program is crucial preparation for the Commonwealth Games, and with limited time available, I hope the government will address these issues promptly. Once the situation is resolved, the old guides will need to enhance their skills, or they may face being sidelined as the industry evolves.

Terrorism in India

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Yesterday was the last day of Durga Puja, and I went out with my friends to visit the Durga pandals, as we have been doing for the past decade. We typically leave home around 9 PM and spend the whole night traveling to different pandals, returning by morning. The traffic is usually heavy due to the large number of people attending, and we normally park our bikes and walk from one pandal to another.

This year, however, I was taken aback by the turnout. Only about ten percent of the usual crowd attended, a stark contrast to the vibrant celebrations of previous years. The streets, which are normally congested, were relatively empty, making it easy to ride our bikes. My friends and I were prepared for the usual foot traffic, but there was no need to walk extensively. I believe the reduced attendance was due to the recent bomb blasts in various cities and the ongoing reports about terrorism in Varanasi.

It felt disheartening to see that fear seemed to have overshadowed the festive spirit. I recall the aftermath of the bomb blast at Sankat Mochan temple, where over a hundred people died. Despite the tragedy, the community quickly returned to normal, expressing their resolve to combat terrorism with support from the authorities. However, this year’s low turnout at Durga Puja suggests that the same resolve might be fading.

This situation reminds me of a recent incident when Jaipur police arrested a mullah in Varanasi, suspecting him of involvement in the Jaipur bomb blasts. The arrest sparked significant protests from the Muslim community, leading to his release due to political pressure and concerns over vote banks. Even though he remains a suspect, he is now free and continues his activities.

Similarly, Afzal Guru, who was convicted for the terrorist attack on the Indian Parliament, was sentenced to death by the Supreme Court. However, the Central Government, led by Congress, has stalled the execution by petitioning the President, who is a Congress candidate. Reports suggest that many terrorists, including those in jail, live under relatively favorable conditions due to political and police corruption.

Sometimes I wonder if individuals like Afzal Guru and the mullah who was released under political pressure are involved in orchestrating bomb blasts. Political parties often prioritize maintaining support from influential vote banks, such as the Muslim community, over addressing terrorism effectively. The current state of affairs makes it seem like meaningful change is unlikely to come anytime soon.

Gwalior for tour guide training

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On the 27th, I traveled to Gwalior for counseling regarding the tour guide training program. My train was delayed by two hours, so I arrived at 10:30 AM, giving me nearly four hours before the counseling session was scheduled to start at 3 PM. I had heard a lot about the Gwalior Fort, so I decided to explore it. I took an auto rickshaw to the fort and reached by 11:00 AM. Gwalior Fort is massive and unlike any fort I’ve seen before. Perched 300 feet atop a hill, it features a nearly 2-kilometer-long inclined road leading to its entrance.

Within the fort, I visited the Mansingh Palace, the Sas-Bahu Temple, the Sikh Gurudwara, and the Teli Temple. Despite having three hours to explore, I quickly realized that the fort was far too vast to see everything in that time. I tried to find a guidebook or some information about the fort, but there were no tourist resources available. The ticket counter at the entrance listed a ticket price of twenty paise, a denomination that hasn’t been used for years, suggesting that updates were long overdue. The only refreshment option was a single coffee shop.

I had hoped to catch the evening sound and light show but didn’t have enough time. I particularly enjoyed the Sas-Bahu Temple, which was adorned with intricate carvings that are around 500 years old. While at the fort, a group of young Sikh men approached me for a photo. Afterward, one of the youngest, who looked about thirteen or fourteen, advised me to wake up early. I was taken aback as he seemed to know about my nocturnal habits. He then began to ask for money, starting at fifty rupees and eventually reducing his demand to just two rupees, but I didn’t give him any.

Following the Sas-Bahu Temple, I visited the Man Singh Palace, built by Raja Man Singh Tomar in 1508. The palace was later captured by the Mughals and used as a special jail for important prisoners. It was the only palace I’d seen with colorful tiles on its walls, adding to its unique beauty. I was approached by several people offering to guide me, but with only thirty minutes left, I decided against it. In retrospect, a guide might have been helpful as the palace was quite complex, reminiscent of Lucknow’s Bada Imambada.

I then proceeded to the counseling center, where I was surprised to see many attendees over the age of thirty-five, some even over fifty. Initially, I thought they might be parents of the students, but they were actually individuals who had passed the exam. It seems these experienced guides were seeking licenses to formalize their status, as they frequently face challenges from government guides and ASI officers. The institute was impressive, featuring a computer lab, library, auditorium, and well-maintained grounds, all air-conditioned. The counseling was divided into two parts: document verification and registration.

I first had to get my documents verified in a separate room where three employees checked my certificates and their attested copies. After this, I filled out a form with details like my name, roll number, marks, batch preferences, and center. I had hoped to join the New Delhi center for the second batch, but it was fully booked, so I was assigned to the Gwalior center instead. The training fee was Rs. 2000, covering the library, computer lab, and teaching costs. The training will start on January 5th and last for 45 days, followed by a week-long tour.

Afterward, I’ll be assigned a city or tourist region to research and write a report on, which must be completed within ten weeks. An exam and interview will follow, and upon passing, a tour guide license will be issued. By 5 PM, with my train back to Benares at 8:40 PM, I left the institute and walked to the railway station, which was about 5 kilometers away. Walking allowed me to see more of Gwalior, a city that, while smaller than Benares, appeared more organized with better traffic, housing, and greenery. On the train, I met a fellow Benares resident who had also qualified for the exam.

He had been working with Japanese tourists but was unhappy due to their perceived lack of generosity. Now that he would have a license, he planned to work with tourists from wealthier countries like the US or Britain. He mentioned that many Japanese-speaking guides in Delhi can’t read or write Japanese, having learned the language through conversation. However, future exams will be conducted in various languages, which might address this issue. Overall, the trip to Gwalior was short but productive. I completed the counseling process, explored the fort, and had a pleasant walk around the city. I’m looking forward to my training period in Gwalior.