Corruption in India

India, before invasion, was renowned as a “golden bird” due to its material prosperity, profound spiritual wisdom, and advanced scientific understanding. From physiology and its inner dimensions to the concept of the multiverse, discussions and innovations were already prevalent. However, this golden age was disrupted by the devastating era of Islamic invasions, leading to widespread destruction. Millions of lives were lost, and countless people were forcibly converted to Islam. It is estimated that over 60,000 Hindu, Jain, and Buddhist temples were razed to the ground.

The destruction of Nalanda University and its incomparable library, along with the countless Jain and Hindu temples sacrificed to build the Qutub Minar, are well-documented tragedies. The suffering endured by the sacred sites of Ayodhya, Mathura, and Varanasi is similarly heart-wrenching. Indeed, the historical atrocities inflicted upon India are vast and complex, defying concise summation. Ultimately, the nation was partitioned, with present-day Pakistan, Bangladesh, and Nepal once forming an integral part of India. Expanding the cultural perspective, Tibet and Afghanistan were also deeply intertwined with the Indian subcontinent.

Following the brutal Islamic era, British colonial rule ensued, often referred to as the “British Raj.” However, many argue it was essentially a “Christian Raj,” with colonial objectives mirroring those of their Muslim predecessors: exploitation of India’s wealth and proselytization of Christianity. While Mother Teresa is celebrated for her humanitarian work, her canonization is often attributed to her role in religious conversion, particularly among the Hindu population.

Her work among the impoverished was undeniably extraordinary, defying verbal description. While her humanitarian efforts were commendable, it’s also acknowledged that her primary objective included proselytizing Christianity, particularly within the Hindu community. Despite the actions of previous rulers, India gained independence on August 15, 1947, igniting hope among millions. However, the nation has grappled with persistent challenges such as corruption, poverty, and illiteracy.

India’s journey into independence was marred almost immediately by the Jeep scam of 1948, a stark indicator of the challenges to come. Since then, a seemingly endless stream of scandals has plagued successive governments. The pervasive nature of corruption is exemplified by former Prime Minister Rajiv Gandhi’s infamous assertion that only 15 paise of every rupee allocated for public welfare actually reaches its intended beneficiaries, with the remaining 85 paise siphoned off by politicians, bureaucrats, and their associates.

The frequency and scale of corruption escalated over time. Multi-million and even billion-dollar scams became commonplace. International aid and loans intended for poverty alleviation were diverted into the coffers of politicians and bureaucrats. The plunder extended beyond foreign funds to the nation’s natural resources. The coal and Commonwealth Games scams are infamous examples of this rampant corruption.

Corruption had become so normalized that it was expected at every level of society. Citizens anticipated bribes from government employees and police officers. The opulent lifestyles of politicians, often funded through illicit means, were accepted without question. This systemic corruption created a toxic environment where dishonesty permeated every sector, from government offices to private businesses.

Finally the 2014 elections came and Mr. Narendra Modi was introduced as the Prime Ministerial candidate of the BJP party. Mr. Narendra Modi had a reputation of being business friendly, honest but also anti-minority. The ruling party Congress made Mr. Modi’s reputation of being anti-minority a huge issue. The elections were polarized in the name of minority appeasement. Mr. Modi was labeled as an anti-minority because of the Gurjat riots which took place in the year 2002. Gujrat riots started when a group of Hindu pilgrims train was attacked by Muslims in Gujrat.

“A train carrying Hindu pilgrims was set on fire by a Muslim mob, resulting in the deaths of several people. This incident triggered widespread communal violence across the state. Mr. Modi, the then Chief Minister, was criticized for his handling of the riots. However, his reputation as a business-friendly and honest leader, coupled with his successful track record of bringing development to Gujarat, significantly contributed to his election as Prime Minister of India in 2014.”

When Mr. Modi became Prime Minister, people had high expectations. They anticipated rapid improvements in governance, including zero corruption, enhanced internal and external security, transparency, better infrastructure, increased financial prosperity, and overall progress. It is now 2024, and Mr. Modi has completed two terms as Prime Minister. We have witnessed significant changes on the ground level.

We have witnessed some of his popular schemes, such as housing for all, direct benefit transfers, digital transactions, universal tap water supply, affordable internet, an excellent new road network, improved electricity, and sanitation, bring about changes in people’s lives. Additionally, there have been no new scams reported in the government thus far. While it’s possible that scams exist but remain undisclosed due to the current administration, it’s also noteworthy how many previously corrupt leaders from other parties have adopted a clean image upon joining the BJP.

Anyways, Mr. Modi seems to be a lot better leader than any other option but one place where his karizma does not seem to work is the corruption on ground level. The corruption which people face in their daily lives, such as corruption in government offices and policing. I know that Policing is a matter of the state government and Mr. Modi can not do anything about it. I also know that most of the work which literally matters in people’s lives is done by the state governments. There are many central government run offices and institutions in different states but they are also somehow highly affected by the governance of the state.

I cannot think of a single government office where anyone can get any work done without offering a bribe. If I want a new electricity connection, I will have to offer a bribe. To build a house, I will have to bribe someone in the municipality and city development authority. Starting a business requires bribing the concerned authorities. Even getting a loan or registering a police complaint involves paying bribes.

The government of India has a program called housing for all. The way this scheme work is that if someone who has a piece of land but not a house then the government gives some money. The money is sent directly into the beneficiary’s account in four different installments. The beneficiary provides a plan, gets it approved by some government officer and then the amount is sent directly to the beneficiary’s account. But since there is an officer involved in between, he charges almost 20% bribe in advance, I have heard that at some places its even 40%.

So, I mean to say that corruption is prevalent in almost every aspect of life, and it’s often incredibly frustrating. I have countless personal experiences with corruption and would like to share a recent incident involving the birth of a child in my family and the death of my uncle. This case highlights corruption within the central government, state government, and private sector—a reflection of the broader corruption of humanity.

Let’s focus on the birth of my sister-in-law’s child. Most people who can afford private healthcare avoid government hospitals due to inefficiency caused by corruption. This isn’t about the quality of doctors but the poor service resulting from corruption. Patients are often neglected, with doctors and nurses absent or unwilling to see them. Senior residents handle most cases, and essential services like medicines are charged despite being supposedly free. The infrastructure is excellent on paper but poorly maintained.

My sister-in-law’s husband was unemployed when she was pregnant, so they opted for government hospital services, which were supposed to be free (including medicines, delivery, vaccines, supplements, and doctor fees). The day she went into labor, she was rushed to the hospital and, after much chaos, was admitted. They informed the family that she would deliver that night and that she was hemoglobin-deficient, requiring three units of blood. The family managed to find donors without difficulty.

The hospital planned to perform a caesarean section. When I visited her, I was appalled by the conditions. The mattresses were dirty, the bedsheets used, and garbage littered the floor. A single nurse was responsible for perhaps fifty patients, with many nursing duties delegated to family members. It was horrifying. To add insult to injury, the hospital demanded a bribe of Rs. 7000 for the delivery, payable in advance.

The surgery was scheduled for around 9 PM, but they demanded the money around 5 PM. Seven thousand rupees might not seem like a large sum to a middle-class Indian family, but it was a significant amount for someone unemployed. The father didn’t have the money and was struggling to arrange funds for his wife’s post-surgery care. This sudden, unexpected expense was overwhelming.

He questioned the hospital staff about the fee, given that the surgery was supposed to be free. The response was that while the surgery itself was free, a payment was still required. This money, they claimed, went directly to the doctor, and failure to pay could jeopardize the mother and child during the operation. Imagine the shock and fear this caused. The hospital employee explicitly threatened the well-being of the mother and child if the bribe wasn’t paid.

Despite lacking the funds, the father felt compelled to comply. He borrowed the money and gave it to the hospital employee. Only after the bribe was paid was his wife taken into the operating room. This harrowing ordeal illustrates the deep-rooted corruption a person faces even before birth in India.

Now let’s discuss the other incident involving my uncle’s death. One of my uncles died in a motorcycle accident a few months ago while returning home. He was alone when the accident occurred and was brought to the hospital by strangers. My uncle was still alive at the accident scene and gave his mobile phone to passersby, asking them to inform his family. They called some relatives using his phone and then took him to BHU, Varanasi’s largest hospital.

BHU is a centrally funded university with the region’s largest hospital. It’s the backbone of healthcare in eastern Uttar Pradesh and serves patients from neighboring states like Bihar and Madhya Pradesh. My uncle was brought to BHU’s trauma center already deceased. Upon arriving at the hospital, I found his body unattended. The doctor informed me that my uncle had been brought in dead and hadn’t been officially admitted. They asked if we wanted to take the body or if they should perform an autopsy. Indian law mandates an autopsy in cases of unnatural death. As an autopsy is required for insurance claims, loans, and other financial matters, we requested one.

BHU staff informed us that they no longer performed autopsies on-site. Instead, all autopsies were conducted at another government hospital about 10 kilometers away. They explained that they would first inform the police, who would then handle the paperwork before the body could be transferred. Our request for an autopsy initiated a series of frustrating and corrupt events.

The hospital had stretchers but stored them outside the trauma center. We were asked to fetch one ourselves, a minor inconvenience but a task that should have been handled by hospital staff, especially considering the emotional state of grieving families. After obtaining a stretcher, we waited for hospital personnel to assist in moving the body to the mortuary.

An hour later, someone arrived, but initially refused to touch the body, demanding that we move it to the stretcher. My brother and I were unable to do so alone and needed additional help. Despite our pleas, we were forced to move the body ourselves. We then had to transport the stretcher with the body approximately 300 meters to the mortuary.

Moving a stretcher with a body on it requires proper handling. I had no experience with stretchers but somehow managed to navigate it. We finally reached the mortuary, which could accommodate about four to six bodies. There was no hospital staff to open the mortuary or store the body. The accompanying hospital employee was only there for paperwork. He called someone, and after about thirty minutes, a severely intoxicated man arrived, reeking of alcohol.

He wasn’t a regular BHU employee but a temporary hire. I believe there should be a dedicated person for this job, but someone was likely avoiding their duties. This is a common issue in India, where government employees often delegate their work to others while still receiving a salary. I suspect this was a similar case. In fact, I know someone personally working at a village health center who never shows up for work. He’s anxious now because the government is implementing a biometric attendance system.

Anyway, this intoxicated man demanded payment for his services. He asked for 1000 rupees to move the body into the mortuary and later retrieve it. The real challenge began when we tried to move the body with this drunk man. Just the two of us, plus him, had to handle a body soaked in blood from the accident. The bleeding hadn’t stopped. With great difficulty, my brother and I managed to move the body into the mortuary with his help. Then the hospital staff told us to wait for the police.

He said they had already informed the police but suggested we contact them directly to speed up the process. He also mentioned that the autopsy hospital had a 4 PM cutoff and if we were late, the autopsy would be postponed until the next day. He warned that if we arrived after the cutoff, there might not be mortuary space available for the night. Now we had to decide whether to proceed with the autopsy that day or wait until the following day.

It was already 1 PM, leaving us just three hours to complete the police paperwork and reach the other hospital. The police finally arrived around 3 PM. They asked the intoxicated man to remove the body from the mortuary. He again requested our help, which we reluctantly provided. As we placed the body on the floor, blood gushed out everywhere. This is clearly a job for trained professionals, not family members. Despite the mess, we managed to position the body on the bare floor while the police questioned the intoxicated man about the body’s condition.

I was astonished to see the police officers didn’t even examine the body. They sat about 20 meters away, conversing with the intoxicated man. The officer recorded the man’s description of the body: fair complexion, a jaw injury, a scratch above the eyebrow, and the clothing color. Meanwhile, we were tasked with arranging an ambulance to transport the body to the other hospital. It’s unbelievable that such a large hospital lacked an ambulance, or perhaps they were unwilling to provide one. We were directed to contact private ambulance services.

We found a vehicle with “ambulance” written on it, but it wasn’t a real ambulance. The seating arrangement was the only difference from a regular car. The person helping us find an ambulance warned me that these ambulance drivers often charge extra and that I might need to negotiate. It was heartbreaking to realize that even in death, corruption and bargaining were involved. Overwhelmed, I simply asked him to find an ambulance. The police then demanded a special packing material that was sold outside. Neither the police nor the hospital had any.

We found the required packing material at a nearby store. It was a large plastic bag with the Uttar Pradesh Police logo. With the drunken man’s assistance, we placed the body in the bag and sealed it properly using wax and a hospital logo. We managed to leave BHU around 3:20 PM, giving us only 20 minutes to reach the other hospital. We arrived just in time and handed over the body, waiting outside. To my astonishment, the body was returned to us within 45 minutes. I’ve always questioned how such a complex procedure could be completed so quickly.

It appears they simply opened the body cavity and closed it without performing any actual procedures. They probably copied the information directly from the police report, which was inaccurate as it was dictated by the intoxicated man, not the police themselves. The body was returned to us, and we cremated it that evening. My uncle’s family went to their ancestral village for post-cremation rituals and later returned to Varanasi to obtain the death certificate after two weeks.

Typically, death and birth certificates are issued by the municipality. We contacted the municipality, and they requested a police report. At the police station, we were informed that the report was under process and would take at least a week to complete. They suggested finding the specific officer who created the report. After locating the officer, we were told that police reports are confidential and not shared with families. We could apply for a certified copy once the report was submitted to the police commissioner’s office. As an alternative, the officer offered to provide an unofficial, unsealed copy, which he claimed would suffice for the municipality.

We asked the municipality official for the non-official police report. We returned to the police officer and witnessed him making a phone call to another officer on speakerphone. The other officer agreed to prepare the report if we “took care” of him, a clear request for a bribe. It was unimaginable to be extorted in such a manner while grieving a loss.

By this time, we already knew someone who could help us, but we decided to try another option. We contacted someone at a larger police station’s communication department, who agreed to provide the report. We were told to return the next day to collect it. When we arrived, the officer openly asked for a bribe. He was young, probably around 27 or 28, and demanded whatever we could give him. My cousin offered the only cash he had, 200 rupees, but the officer insisted on more.

After a few minutes of negotiation, he handed us the report, and we left without further conversation. So, he did demand a bribe but ultimately received nothing. We obtained the certificate, but the ordeal was far from over. We later discovered a misspelling of my uncle’s name on the report, rendering it useless. The next day, we visited the municipality office, where we were informed that due to the involvement of the police and BHU, the death certificate would be issued by BHU, not the municipality.

We contacted the BHU office the next day to explain the name misspelling issue. The officer stated that it didn’t matter and they would use the name from the ID card, not the police report. This was a relief. We filled out the required form and submitted it. Inquiring about the processing time, we received a surprising response. The officer mentioned it could take a week if the government website was functioning correctly, but it might take one to two months if the website was down. When we asked about the website’s reliability, he explained that it often experienced technical difficulties, hindering certificate generation.

I was astonished that while India boasts of widespread smartphone usage, 5G internet, and globally renowned tech professionals, our government websites are dysfunctional. Eventually, we navigated the university bureaucracy and obtained the certificate within three days.

Comparing these two cases, we find starkly contrasting situations: one involving a yet-to-be-born child and the other a deceased individual. Multiple institutions were implicated: a state-run hospital for the caesarean section, a central government hospital like BHU, another state-run hospital for the autopsy, state police, and a private ambulance service. The common thread throughout this ordeal was corruption at every step. One life was adversely affected before birth, while the other continued to grapple with its consequences even in death.

Everyone in India experiences corruption at some level, but people seem desensitized to it. One of India’s most significant problems is poverty, primarily caused by corruption and overpopulation. I believe poverty could be eradicated within a few decades if corruption were eliminated. I once met an American working for the World Bank in Bangladesh who had just completed a ten-year project there. He was visiting India on vacation before returning home.

He told me that the World Bank provided substantial funds for road construction in Bangladesh, but corruption prevented the completion of even a single project. He explained that projects were intentionally delayed as a pretext to request more money. Consequently, projects were perpetually delayed, and no one benefited. He admitted to not completing a single project in his ten-year career. India also faced similar issues under previous governments, but there seems to be improvement under Prime Minister Modi. While hopeful about Modi’s leadership, I recognize the challenge of tackling corruption. His reputation makes him a target for opposition, even to his positive initiatives. It’s essential for everyone to prioritize the fight against corruption if India and its people are to realize their full potential.

VIP tickets at Hindu temples

In recent years, there has been a noticeable trend of more temples offering VIP darshan tickets. While VIP access has existed for some time, it was previously limited to a selected few temples. However, the number of temples offering this service has grown significantly. Having visited temples across India, I’ve observed that temples in North India often exhibit the most concerning levels of corruption. Even in the absence of a formal ticketing system, one can frequently find priests, intermediaries, agents, or even police officers offering expedited darshan in exchange for a fee.

Only two prominent temples in Varanasi, Sankat Mochan and BHU New Vishwanath JI, seem relatively free from the corruption associated with VIP darshan tickets. Unfortunately, visiting any other well-known temple in Varanasi often involves dealing with harassment. For a peaceful experience, Kashi Vishwanath and Kaal Bhairav temples are particularly challenging. While Kashi Vishwanath can be navigated by avoiding priests and other troublemakers, Kaal Bhairav presents a significantly more complex situation.

My recent visits to Nagreshwar, Somnath, and Mahakal Jyotirling temples in Gujarat were marred by the implementation of ticketing systems. Nagreshwar Jyotirling, for example, offers tickets that grant access to the Garbhgrih (sanctum sanctorum). For an additional fee, visitors can also avail themselves of special rituals performed by a priest. While darshan at Nagreshwar Jyotirling is technically free for all, access to the Garbhgrih is restricted to those who purchase a ticket.

Shri Nageshwar Jyotirlinga, Gujrat

Somnath Temple offers tickets for the evening sound and light laser show. Mahakal temple in Ujjain also has a VIP ticket system but a commendable feature of Mahakal Temple is its provision of a separate queue for senior citizens, exempting them from VIP darshan fees. A temple should not be treated as a commercial enterprise. It should be a space for personal reflection and meditation, accessible to all without distinction. The concept of VIP status should be entirely absent from such sacred places.

Paying to visit a temple feels akin to entering an amusement park. A sacred space should be open to all without charge. The introduction of VIP tickets has eroded the spiritual essence of temples. Now, anyone with a few hundred rupees can receive preferential treatment, creating a sense of inequality. India seems unable to fully escape its colonial past, as people continue to be judged based on their wealth, social status, or other factors.

The hierarchical system is deeply ingrained in Indian culture. While the Modi government has made commendable efforts to curb VIP culture by restricting the use of red or blue beacons on vehicles, the mentality of privilege persists. I frequently visit Kashi Vishwanath Temple with guests, and it’s disheartening to witness the preferential treatment afforded to politicians, government officials, judges, and police officers. Their vehicles are often parked directly at the temple’s entrance, a privilege denied to ordinary citizens. This demonstrates a continued bias towards those in positions of authority.

Inside the temple, these individuals also receive preferential treatment, gaining access to areas restricted to the general public. While I understand the need for special arrangements for high-ranking officials like the Prime Minister or President, the same privilege is often extended to politicians and individuals with political connections. While the government introduced VIP darshan tickets to streamline the visiting process, it has inadvertently transformed the temple into a place of privilege. While the time of dignitaries like the Prime Minister or President is undoubtedly valuable, it’s unfair to expect others to wait in long queues while these individuals enjoy special treatment.

I believe a VIP darshan facility is necessary, but it should be exclusive to senior citizens and individuals with special abilities. These groups should be considered VIPs and receive preferential treatment not only at temples but also in offices and public spaces. For the general public, an organized online registration system should be implemented. This system would offer different time slots based on availability, allowing visitors to choose their preferred visiting time.

A similar approach should be adopted for all visitors. By determining the maximum number of visitors per hour and offering different time slots, visitors can choose the most convenient option. This will limit the number of people at any given time, reducing wait times. Those who haven’t registered should be directed to a separate queue. Implementing this system would quickly eliminate long queues and enhance the spiritual experience for visitors, especially if the temple were to offer free entry

I visit Churches, Mosques, Buddhist temples, and Sikh Gurudwaras, but I’ve never encountered a VIP ticket system. While these places of worship may face their own challenges, they haven’t resorted to commercializing their sacred spaces. Unfortunately, the commercialization of temple visits is a prevalent issue in Hindu temples only. The presence of priests and middlemen seeking financial gain, combined with the VIP ticket system, further complicates the experience for devotees.

My Western guests have shared with me that many people have stopped attending churches due to their commercialization and politicization. Priests in these churches often sought to control people’s minds, promising them eternal salvation in exchange for monetary donations. Reports of churches selling certificates for heaven further highlight this disturbing trend. While Hindu temples have historically avoided such practices, there are signs of a concerning shift. Hindu temples are not merely places for rituals or priestly control. They are spaces for self-discovery, introspection, and spiritual growth. They offer opportunities for peace and inner awakening

“I hope that authorities will reconsider the current state of Hindu temples and allow them to serve as true places of self-discovery, introspection, and spiritual growth. If the system remains unchanged, it’s only a matter of time before people lose their devotion to these temples, mirroring the decline of churches. I personally know many individuals who have stopped visiting temples due to overcrowding, VIP tickets, and the exploitative practices of priests and middlemen. I sincerely hope that this trend will reverse, and temples will regain their ancient glory.

Traveller’s Choice Award 2020 for Groovy Tours

I have been using Tripadvisor to promote my tour business since 2014 which gives me most of my business. Based on the ratings and reviews given by the customers Tripadvisor choses certain companies every year and gives them an yearly award. All the way starting from 2014 I started receiving Certificate of Excellence award, then they gave me Hall of Fame award in the year 2018 (Hall of Fame is given to the service providers who get Certificate of Excellence continuously five years in a row) and now this year I have been given Traveller’s Choice Award for the year 2020. It is always a great feeling to see that your guests appreciate your services and it becomes more special when it happens again and again every year 🙂 Thanks for all your support, Jai Hind!

Ranked # 1 on Tripadvisor

I got my tourist guide license four years ago and I was really confused about how I was going to work. My elder brother works for an Italian tour company, my cousin is also an Italian speaking tourist guide and I have grown up in a city where tourism is very important part of economy. Everyone was giving me different suggestions but most of them recommended me to visit some travel agencies with my CV and ask for work because this is the traditional way of getting work in tourism industry for tour guides. I was already blogging and I had developed a sense of finding right customers online so I was not really if I needed to contact travel agencies and in any case I was upset with usual travel agency’s practices like forced shopping and considering the guest only as a person whom you don’t think about meeting again in future.

I had already met with so many western people way before I got my license so I already had a sense about what western tourists want. And in any case my work as a translator or research assistant gave me the best practical knowledge possible, which a lot of guides miss, about western culture. So I decided to work in the same way I was already doing by promoting my business online. My friend Lane from Seattle helped a lot by putting up a website for my tour business. In the beginning it was not working at all and I realized that only having a website was not enough and I needed some kind of advertisement. In the beginning I used platforms like google business or craigslist but it was not really working well, I was still not getting enough work.

During the tour guide training program, we were taught that as per a survey organized by some International travel agency if a tourist is happy with the services of the travel agent then he is likely to tell about his experience to around 5 people but if he is upset then he is likely to share his experience with around 13 people which means there is no margin for error in this tourism business. I started working keeping this idea in my mind that I don’t have any rights to do anything which my guest doesn’t feel comfortable with. I was meeting with a lot of people through different online travel forums and just tried to perform my best. During this time so many people wrote about my services on online travel forums like Lonely Planet Thorn Tree and Indiamike.

Indiamike got me a lot of business and I was really happy with it. A few months ago Tripadvisor contacted me and they provided me a space on their website. Most probably some of my guests had asked Tripadvisor to list me on their website. I had heard about Tripadvisor so many times and everyone said that it was very big and so many people use it. I was really excited to be listed on Tripadvisor. Tripadvisor asked me to ask my guests to share their reviews about my services. It took me only four months and now I am ranked 1 on Varanasi page. I don’t know how it will change my business but I have noticed one thing that so many people contact me. It is a very big responsibility for me to carry on the same quality but I try my best.

I am also considering training other people so that we can work together with more than one group a day. In fact I tried it during last tourist season and it worked very well. I know that this coming tourist season will be much more busier than the last one and I need to be more prepared to handle the traffic. And keeping this idea in my mind I have already made contacts with other government approved tourist guides, have given them a sense about my style of work and they all have agreed on working with me. The biggest worry for me about hiring other guides was if they would ask my guests to go shopping with them as they usually do with their guests. I told them that I don’t do it in my business : I ask for more rather than stealing or cheating my guests.

All of the guides whom I met they also believed in me and said that if they get good salary then why they would take their guests for shopping. I have promised them extra money and just by getting this extra money they were all happy to take my guests without shopping. Everything is working very well so far and I am really excited for next tourist season. My tripadvisor page is here.

Project for the guide training program

After completing the classroom teaching and orientation tour, I’m now set to begin fieldwork in my local town for the next two months. Initially, I was eager to explore LGBT tourism as my project because it’s a relatively untapped area in India and would allow me to connect my NGO work and research on the LGBT community with this project. However, I had to reconsider due to advice from friends and others who cautioned against it. They pointed out that a professor’s approval can often depend on personal preferences.

Given that LGBT tourism is a new and controversial concept in India and faces significant opposition, there was a risk that my professor might not support it. This seemed plausible given the widespread negativity toward the LGBT community in India. So, I decided to shift my focus to ecotourism. I initially planned to promote the rock paintings and waterfalls in Mirzapur district. My research showed that Mirzapur, with its untapped potential for ecotourism, had no existing tours being marketed. However, just two days before I was supposed to finalize my project with the institute, I read a news article about three foreigners being robbed at a well-known waterfall in Mirzapur.

Since some parts of Mirzapur are Naxalite-affected, this raised significant concerns about safety. Promoting a destination with such risks would be irresponsible. With my initial plan off the table, my only remaining option was to focus on Benares, which I had hoped to avoid. Previous projects on Benares have mainly covered heritage, culture, and mythology—topics I wasn’t particularly excited about. Tourists today are different from those of the past; they’re more interested in social issues, society, and politics rather than just history. Thus, I chose to focus on Benares with the topic “Benares: A Place for Everyone.” My professor approved of this subject, noting that it was unique and more engaging than a history-focused project.

My interest in this subject stems from Varanasi’s remarkable diversity. Although I’m not entirely sure if it’s the most diverse city in India, it certainly has a rich mix of cultures and religions. I plan to explore how Benares serves as a significant place for Hindus, Muslims, Buddhists, Jains, Sikhs, and Christians. Despite the small Christian population, there are several old churches that deserve attention. I also want to highlight how Benares, traditionally known as a city where Hindus come to die, has transformed into a vibrant hub for migrants seeking employment and a new life. This shift from a city of death to a city of life is a fascinating development that I want to investigate.

I have a lot of ideas for this project, but I’m unsure about the scope and how well I can incorporate my thoughts into the report. Nonetheless, I’m excited about the opportunity and looking forward to diving into this diverse and dynamic subject.

Meeting advocate for tour guide lawsuit

I went to Delhi on the 9th to be involved in the case against the Ministry of Tourism for failing to start the tour guide training program in 2008. The training was supposed to commence on October 6th but was delayed due to a lawsuit filed by the Guide Association of Jaipur, which challenged the government’s plan for organizing the training differently from their own. My arrival in Delhi was delayed by three hours due to the train being late, and I was only able to meet with the advocate because he was busy with another client.

I had planned to get my laptop and camera serviced and to take photos of the plastic waste around Delhi, but the train delay thwarted these plans. Upon reaching Delhi around noon, instead of the planned 9 a.m., I went to the High Court to meet the advocate. He was occupied with a significant matter and I had to wait in his office for over two hours. During this time, I overheard that he was dealing with a case involving the Deputy Commissioner of Police (DCP) concerning extra income beyond his official salary.

It seemed the Central Bureau of Investigation (CBI) was also involved, indicating the DCP’s significant corruption. DCPs typically earn around twenty thousand rupees in salary, but they often possess expensive cars, bungalows, and other luxuries. If those at the top are corrupt, it’s likely that those beneath them are as well, since bribes generally flow through the lower ranks before reaching the higher-ups. When I finally met the advocate, I was surprised to find that a young High Court advocate, probably in his 30s or 40s, was struggling with basic computer tasks.

He took ten to fifteen minutes just to type my name and address and printed the wrong documents multiple times. Despite my offer to type the information myself, I chose to watch him navigate the computer issues. Eventually, after an hour of watching him struggle, my paperwork was completed. He asked me to call him on the 22nd to discuss the court’s judgment. His fee was Rs. 3,000, which was Rs. 1,000 more than the Rs. 2,000 he charged last time for a similar case. Despite the extra cost, it seemed reasonable if it meant securing the permit. He promised to appeal to the court to issue a license valid until the training program begins.

Previously, the permit was only valid for one month, requiring frequent trips to Delhi for renewals. I hope this time will be different. After leaving the High Court, I walked to Connaught Place and spent some time observing the modern people of India. It struck me that there is a growing issue with obesity, likely influenced by western fast food and soft drinks, despite the higher literacy rates in big cities compared to smaller ones. I saw many well-dressed people in luxury cars throwing trash out of their windows, which highlights the need for significant changes in our education system.

I had planned to photograph the plastic waste near the railway tracks but couldn’t due to the foggy weather. I had already taken a few photos earlier in the morning. Although the trip wasn’t entirely successful, I don’t regret going to Delhi, especially since I will likely obtain the license.

Another case against tour guide training

It now appears that completing the guide training program will be delayed by another year. The Guide Association of Jaipur has filed another lawsuit against the government, demanding that the training be organized exactly as it was previously done for them. Their training consisted of three and a half months of classes followed by a fifteen-day orientation tour. This time, the proposed training includes forty-five days of classes, a fifteen-day orientation tour, and two months of research. I believe this updated training program is an improvement over the previous one.

The Jaipur association has alleged that some candidates in this year’s program have submitted fraudulent documents. They are demanding that the government verify each document with the relevant authorities. It seems their primary goal is to delay the training as much as possible. They are likely trying to prevent new guides from working during the 2010 Commonwealth Games, which is expected to attract around ten million tourists to India.

Due to the postponement of our training, this year’s candidates are planning to sue the government again for not starting the program. I received a call from the advocate handling the lawsuit, who informed me that the government will issue temporary licenses to all candidates who were scheduled to receive training this year. I will need to travel to Delhi to obtain this temporary license. While I am uncertain how long it will take to receive the permanent license, the constant trips to Delhi and the advocate’s fees are becoming quite overwhelming.

Guide Association forbids new guides

There is a new issue with the tour guide training program that was scheduled to start on October 6th. The Guide Association of Jaipur has sued the government, arguing that the training program should be extended to four months, as it was for previous guides. They are unhappy with the new structure, which includes 45 days of classes, a 15-day orientation tour, and the submission of an assignment report. They believe the program should be the same as it was before, with continuous classes for four months.

Although the current program is designed to last for four months in total, the changes from the previous format have led to dissatisfaction among the old guides. They are concerned that the new structure, which includes additional requirements, will affect their established routines. The court has now ordered the government to halt the training program until further notice.

I believe the revised program is actually an improvement over the previous one. However, it seems that the old guides are resistant to change, possibly because they fear competition from newer entrants into the industry. Despite the shortage of professional tour guides in India and the upcoming Commonwealth Games in 2010, these seasoned guides appear to be delaying the program to protect their positions. I’ve observed some guides who, rather than actively engaging with clients, have been inattentive or relied on escorts to interact with clients.

The current training program is crucial preparation for the Commonwealth Games, and with limited time available, I hope the government will address these issues promptly. Once the situation is resolved, the old guides will need to enhance their skills, or they may face being sidelined as the industry evolves.

Tour guide for Italians

I worked with Gianni and Marco, two Italians, as their tour guide in Varanasi from the 19th to the 21st. They were referred to me by Giona, the Italian I had worked with the previous week. Gianni is involved in the events sector, and Marco is an architect. They were staying at the Ganges Views Hotel near Assi Ghat. With only two days in Varanasi, we couldn’t visit all the places we had planned. Unfortunately, we missed Tulsi Manas Temple, BHU Museum, and Kina Ram Monastery.

The weather was quite challenging with heavy rain, and the police had prohibited boat rides during their stay. However, we managed to take two short boat rides—from Assi Ghat to Pandey Ghat—one in the morning and one in the evening. We also attended a religious lecture at Marwari Sewa Sangh, which they enjoyed immensely. During their stay, they purchased several items including a Shivalingam, a bull statue, a large candle holder used for Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat, and various toys.

Italian guest visits Aghori society

I worked with an Italian named Giona Peduzzi, who initially contacted me through Couchsurfing to arrange a meeting for a drink. After a series of emails discussing his tour of India, he asked me to plan his visit to Varanasi. Giona lives in Rome and works for Channel 5, Italy’s largest private TV channel, as a show designer and writer for two Saturday night shows. Giona arrived in Varanasi on August 6th and stayed until August 9th. I arranged his accommodation at my guest house.

During his visit, we explored various sites including Mother Teresa’s Home, an Aghor monastery, Mathas (places where people reside while awaiting death), Sarnath, Tulsi Manas Temple, Sankat Mochan Temple (the monkey temple), BHU, Durga Temple (in Ram Nagar), and we also met Lali Baba. Giona was particularly impressed by the people he met. One memorable visit was to Machali Bandar Math, where we spoke with a Sadhu who had been residing there for over 30 years, waiting for his death. Giona was astonished by this dedication, though it was less surprising to me given my previous experiences working with Sophia, an anthropology student from the University of Berlin.

Lali Baba left a significant impression on Giona. He found Lali Baba to be the most fascinating character he had ever encountered, especially captivated by his elaborate attire for the evening Aarti, his garlands and skulls, and even seeing Lali Baba using a computer to chat. We also visited Mother Teresa’s Home. Although I have mixed feelings about going there—feeling both compelled to help but finding it emotionally challenging due to the many mentally and physically ill individuals—I still find it important to visit. I suggested providing a television for the patients’ entertainment, but the Nun declined, explaining that they had never used one before and preferred to maintain their current approach.

At the Aghor monastery, Giona was surprised by their Guinness World Record certificate for treating the most leprosy patients in the world. I have a great appreciation for this place and visit their hospital every time I am in town. Giona expressed interest in visiting Bodh Gaya for a day and then heading to Mumbai. He wanted to experience a film or TV serial shooting in Mumbai. I reached out to Yogesh, a production manager in Bollywood, who agreed to show Giona around Film City. I hope Giona enjoys his time in Mumbai with Yogesh.

I and Giona