My liver transplant was performed in November 2020, and I have been on a specific regimen of medication ever since. My body recognizes the new organ as a foreign object, so my immune system could potentially attack it at any time. To prevent this, my doctors have prescribed immunosuppressive medications. I take two different immunosuppressant drugs and a steroid that acts as an anti-rejection medication. These drugs are Tacrolimus, Mycophenolate, and Prednisolone. The most common brand of Mycophenolate worldwide is Cellcept, produced by Roche.
Initially, my doctors prescribed Cellcept, but I experienced side effects including upset stomach and headaches. Consequently, they discontinued it. Since my transplant, I’ve primarily relied on Tacrolimus and Prednisolone. However, during the past four years, I’ve had occasional infections requiring Mycophenolate. While the standard brand is Cellcept, I’ve been taking Mycofit S, produced by the Indian company Intas Pharmaceuticals. Cellcept is available in 500mg and 250mg strengths, whereas Mycofit S comes in 360mg capsules.
Cellcept typically costs around ₹650-700 per strip of 10 tablets, with a print rate of ₹750. Some people report getting even better deals, purchasing it for as low as ₹550. Mycofit-S 360, on the other hand, has a print rate of ₹1,330 per strip of 10 tablets. Given this significant price difference, I’d aim for a substantial discount on Mycofit-S. A 30% discount would bring the price down to around ₹930, which is still higher than Cellcept but more reasonable. However, I’d personally negotiate for a discount closer to 40% to make it more comparable to Cellcept’s price range.
Due to their specialized nature, immunosuppressant medications can be difficult to find. Despite Varanasi having a large medicine market near BHU, I struggled to locate Mycophenolate last year. Eventually, I found a shop that carried Mycofit-S 360 and purchased it for ₹900 after a 30% discount. I was surprised by the price. Considering my previous experience with Cellcept, I anticipated a similar or lower cost for Mycofit-S 360. However, it was nearly twice as expensive.
Given the high print rate of ₹1,330, I initially accepted the ₹900 price without question. However, I had a gut feeling something was amiss. I contacted a friend who had also undergone a transplant and was taking Mycofit-S, but in the 500mg strength. To my surprise, he paid only ₹300 per strip, despite a similar print rate of around ₹1,400. This significant discrepancy between the print rate and the actual selling price was shocking.
My friend explained that these pharmacies often charge regular customers between ₹900 and ₹1000 for Mycofit-S 360. However, they offer significant discounts to repeat customers or those with personal connections. He introduced me to his pharmacy, where I’ve been purchasing Mycofit-S 360 for ₹275 per strip ever since. Incredibly, this pharmacy is located just 50 meters away from the one that initially overcharged me.
Print rate of Mycofit S 360
I purchased Mycofit-S from the new pharmacy for a month until my doctors determined it was no longer necessary. Unfortunately, my liver function tests have been unsatisfactory for the past month, and despite adjusting the medication dosage, my doctors have restarted Mycofit-S 360. I typically buy medications from the ILBS hospital pharmacy in New Delhi. However, to my surprise, they quoted me ₹850 per strip for Mycofit-S 360. ILBS is a semi-private hospital operated by the Delhi state government, where I expected to receive subsidized medicines.
Initially, I considered buying other medications at ILBS and purchasing Mycofit-S 360 in Varanasi upon my return. However, I was concerned about the availability of the drug in Varanasi and my deteriorating health, so I opted to buy it at the ILBS pharmacy for ₹850 per strip. Upon returning to Varanasi, I visited a local pharmacy and was shocked to find the same medication for ₹275 per strip. Questioning the drastic price difference, the shopkeeper claimed it was a coordinated exploitation by pharmaceutical companies, retailers, and the government.
He explained that pharmaceutical companies have free rein to set exorbitant prices, and there’s little to no oversight. They collaborate with retailers to create a deceptive marketing strategy. While companies sell medications at relatively low prices, retailers drastically inflate costs. These retailers can offer substantial discounts while still making enormous profits, keeping customers satisfied. Unsuspecting consumers believe they’re getting a great deal with a 30% discount, unaware that they’ve actually paid four times the reasonable price.
It’s impossible to claim the government is oblivious to these unethical practices. They’re fully aware but seemingly indifferent to addressing the issue. Prime Minister Modi launched the Jan Aushadhi Kendra initiative to provide affordable, quality medicines. While offering generic alternatives at reduced costs, these centers unfortunately don’t stock all medications, including immunosuppressants. Had they done so, it would have been a game-changer for patients like me.
Life becomes prohibitively expensive after an organ transplant due to exorbitant medication costs and frequent hospital visits. Patients endure significant financial hardship, a reality that pharmaceutical companies seem to disregard. While pharmacies often overcharge, it’s essential to acknowledge the role of companies in setting inflated prices and the government’s failure to regulate the industry. Every patient I speak with expresses deep concern about the astronomical cost of their medications.
Immunosuppressive medications are a lifelong commitment, and I’ve observed that patients consistently seek ways to reduce costs. They explore different brands and alternatives to manage medication expenses, especially for Mycophenolate, the most expensive drug in the regimen. Exploiting the financial vulnerability of already suffering patients is unconscionable and must be stopped. However, considering the industry’s current practices, immediate hope for change seems elusive.
Indian Railways is the backbone of India’s transportation system, carrying over 24 million passengers daily. This figure excludes metro systems and other local trains in various Indian cities. India boasts the world’s fourth-largest railway network, operating more than 22,593 trains. It is recognized as one of the largest railway systems globally under single management. Indian Railways offers a diverse range of trains, including superfast express, express, passenger, Rajdhani, Shatabdi, and the semi-high-speed Vande Bharat. Luxury tourist options like the Maharaja Express and heritage Himalayan trains are also available.
Trains offer various seating and sleeping accommodations. Most trains include unreserved general class, non-AC sleeper, 3AC, 2AC, and 1AC classes. While Shatabdi and Vande Bharat currently lack sleeper options, the railway plans to introduce sleeper class Vande Bharat trains soon. It’s also rumored that Vande Bharat trains will replace older Shatabdi trains. Rajdhani Express connects state capitals and exclusively features air-conditioned coaches in 3AC, 2AC, and 1AC classes. Renowned for speed and luxury, Rajdhani Express is a popular choice for inter-state travel.
Shatabdi Express trains offer only chair car seating and connect major cities within shorter distances. Considered fast and luxurious, Shatabdi trains are popular among travelers. The majority of passengers, however, opt for superfast, express, and passenger trains. Indian railways underwent a significant transformation after 2014 under Prime Minister Modi’s leadership. Substantial investments were made to improve railway infrastructure. The implementation of the Clean India campaign led to enhanced sanitation at stations and within trains.
The most noticeable change since Modi came to power is the significantly improved cleanliness of railway stations. There are more comfortable amenities like better waiting areas, cafeterias, drinking water facilities, and overall sanitation. Trains also appear cleaner due to increased and frequent cleaning. A major upgrade is the introduction of vacuum pressure flush toilets in trains. Before 2014, train toilets directly emptied onto the tracks. These improvements have been widely appreciated by the public.
One other major change we’ve noticed is that the railways are shortening the number of non-AC sleeper class coaches. They are replacing these non-AC coaches with AC ones, primarily 3 AC coaches. They have introduced another AC class coach called 3 AC Economy. The 3 AC Economy coach has a capacity of 83 beds, while 3 AC coaches have a capacity of 72 beds. 2 AC coaches have a capacity of 54 beds, and 1 AC coaches offer coupes that can accommodate either 2 or 4 passengers. Non-AC sleeper coaches also have a capacity of 72 beds, and unreserved general class is open to all passengers.
There is usually a waitlist for all train classes. Tickets open four months in advance, and popular trains often sell out immediately. Availability typically dwindles to nothing about a month before departure, unless you try for a Tatkal (urgent) ticket, which opens a day in advance. Tatkal tickets are notoriously difficult to obtain, especially for AC classes, which open at 10 AM. The booking servers immediately become overloaded, and even a minute’s delay can mean losing out. After countless failed attempts, I’ve given up trying.
There are ticket agents who manage to buy tickets from the ticket counter. I’ve heard they bribe ticket counter officers to obtain them. Another major problem with Indian trains is delays. Such delays are so common that 15-20 minutes is hardly considered a delay. People often expect delays of an hour or more and plan their schedules accordingly. While trains are delayed for a day only during the dense fog of winter, there’s no doubt that punctuality has improved since 2014. However, there’s still significant room for improvement.
Indian Railways has been working to improve tracks and increase train speeds. I’ve noticed a significant change in train speeds. Before Mr. Modi took office, the average speed of most trains was around 70 kilometers per hour, but now it’s closer to 100-110. Vande Bharat, Shatabdi, and Rajdhani trains even run at 130-140 kilometers per hour. There has been considerable progress in railways over the past decade, but serious issues remain. Many major railway stations are still in poor condition, and the state of non-AC sleeper and general class coaches is so terrible it’s difficult to describe.
Waitlists for tickets are often so long that it’s very difficult to get a confirmed one. India is also building a Bullet train. The first Bullet train will connect Ahmedabad and Mumbai. Construction began in 2017 and was supposed to be operational by 2022 but was delayed due to the Covid pandemic. I’ve heard it might be operational by the end of 2025. I traveled in both non-AC sleeper and general class once last year, and I had such a horrible experience that it made me question the need for Bullet trains. A few months ago, I wanted to go to Delhi but couldn’t get a ticket from Varanasi on the train I wanted. The same train had seats available from Lucknow, so I booked a 2AC sleeper ticket from there.
I thought I’d simply buy a general class ticket from Varanasi to Lucknow and then upgrade to AC 2 there. I purchased an unreserved general class ticket. The train arrived thirty minutes late, and all non-AC sleeper and general class coaches were packed. As I tried to enter the unreserved general class compartment, the train started moving. I managed to board, but it was a huge mistake. The coach was so crowded I couldn’t even see my feet. Every seat was occupied, and people were sitting on the floor, luggage racks, and even outside the toilet.
There was no space at all to even sit on the floor. It was going to be a five-hour journey, and I had no idea how I would survive that long. Somehow, I managed to squeeze near the toilet and sit on the floor with other people. There were about ten of us crammed into one square meter. Since I was right by the toilet, I had to constantly move whenever someone needed to use it. Eventually, I had to go too, but when I opened the door, it was disgusting. Someone had thrown a plastic bottle in the toilet, it was clogged, and there was urine on the floor. It was impossible to use.
I came back to my spot on the floor, filled with regret for choosing general class. I knew conditions were bad, but I hadn’t realized how truly awful it was since my last general class journey. Despite the ordeal, these experiences can be quite eye-opening. I encountered a situation I never imagined. A family boarded at a stop; they looked like nomads without a permanent home. The family—a mother, father, and three children—was aggressive as soon as they entered. They loudly demanded space and pushed their way towards the toilet, ignoring other areas. It seemed like they already knew where they were headed.
They reached the toilet, entered together, and locked themselves in. Clearly, they saw it as their only available space. When others needed to use the toilet, the family refused to open the door. People started pounding on the door, but the family remained unresponsive and comfortable inside. The frustration grew, and people threatened to break down the door. Finally, the family opened it, appearing annoyed at the disturbance. They acted as if the toilet compartment was their private space. It’s unbelievable that passengers can take over a public toilet on a moving train.
Another bizarre encounter involved two fellow floor-sitters. One man had an open mouth ulcer from cancer, covered with a cloth. Given my immunosuppressive medication and heightened infection risk, being near him was terrifying. I couldn’t imagine his own suffering with cancer, let alone the added stress of this overcrowded, unsanitary environment. Such a journey would undoubtedly be incredibly challenging for someone battling cancer. It highlights the harsh realities faced by many due to economic constraints. Poverty often forces people into unimaginable situations.
There was another guy who wanted to go somewhere in Haryana, but the train only went as far as Delhi. He told me he had started the journey with just Rs. 500 and that the ticket checker had charged him that entire amount to issue a new ticket, leaving him with nothing. I suspected the ticket checker had taken a bribe, but the man showed me a legitimate Rs. 500 receipt for the new ticket. He explained that he would switch trains in Delhi, then take another train part of the way, and finally walk the last 40 kilometers.
I was shocked to discover he didn’t have a ticket for the next leg of his journey from Delhi, nor did he have money for a bus ticket to his final destination. His ordeal was heartbreaking. His innocence made me want to help, at least by buying him a bus ticket. As the train approached Lucknow, I grew increasingly eager to escape the general class compartment. I asked him how much a bus ticket would cost and gave him some money to ensure he wouldn’t have to walk the 40 kilometers.
The train arrived at Lucknow station thirty minutes late. I gave him some money, and he looked puzzled but accepted it gratefully. I changed to the AC 2 class, cleaned up in the washroom (AC class washrooms are usually clean), and went to my seat. That journey still haunts me. It’s heartbreaking to see the appalling condition of general class compartments in Indian trains, where ordinary people endure so much suffering. While some help is available on trains, the state of general class is so dire that it seems insufficient.
I recently had another experience traveling in non-AC class a few days ago. Usually, I book round-trip tickets before my journey, but this time I didn’t have a return ticket to Varanasi. I planned to buy a Tatkal ticket (available a day before departure) but couldn’t get one. As usual, the Indian Railways server crashed, and I couldn’t purchase a ticket. I explored other options from different cities and found a train from Gwalior to Varanasi with available seats for the next day. I booked a ticket on the Bundelkhand Express for the next day.
Gwalior is a four-hour train ride from Delhi, so I looked for a train to Gwalior that evening. All reserved seats were booked, so I decided to try unreserved class again since it was only a short journey. I arrived at Hazrat Nizamuddin railway station, bought a general ticket, and went to the platform. It was August 14th, and we had a holiday on the 15th. The 16th was Friday, and Saturday and Sunday are already officially off days. With another festival on Monday, it meant a long holiday, so many people were traveling back home. The platform was full of people waiting for the train. I thought that if the unreserved class was overcrowded, I would get on a reserved class and pay the penalty.
There were two unreserved coaches, and both became overcrowded as soon as the train arrived at the platform. People were even jumping onto the moving train to secure seats. By the time the train stopped, it was already overcrowded, so I couldn’t board. I went to the reserved non-AC class, hoping to find a spot in a corner. However, many others with general class tickets had the same idea, and the reserved coach was also packed.
It was incredibly difficult to even board the train, but somehow I managed. The train was so crowded that even those with confirmed seats were forced to share them. I managed to find a standing space and later used my backpack as a seat. Everyone said most passengers would get off at Mathura station, but the opposite happened: few got off, and more boarded. Eventually, I couldn’t even sit on my backpack and had to stand the entire time.
Not enough space even to stand
The next stop was Agra, and even more people got on. By this point, it was nearly impossible to stay in the compartment, but I had no other choice. People were sitting on the floor everywhere, and even the reserved seats were occupied by those with unreserved tickets. People trying to move were constantly stepping over others’ feet and luggage. Although the non-AC reserved coaches had open windows, it was so overcrowded that I felt suffocated the entire time.
Finally, the train arrived at Gwalior station, about 30 minutes late. These two recent experiences of traveling in non-AC class have been horrible, literally a nightmare. If there’s any other option, I wouldn’t want to travel in either unreserved or non-AC sleeper class again. It’s not just my story; everyone shares the same opinion about non-AC travel. While there have been improvements recently, many problems still need to be addressed, especially the condition of the unreserved class.
On one hand, we have numerous problems with running existing train services efficiently, while on the other, we’re investing in bullet trains. My recent experience has made me question the need for bullet trains at this point. I understand that such projects enhance a country’s image and attract foreign investment, but shouldn’t we prioritize improving existing services first? I believe focusing on making current trains better would be more appreciated by the Indian public and International community in general.
Why not try to end the waitlist in train tickets first? Why not make trains run on time first? Why not make them litter free first? Why not make the condition of general class coaches better first? Why not replace non-AC with AC coaches first? Why not try to improve the track quality first and make the trains faster? Why not arrange good pantry services available at all the trains first? Why make huge investment on Bullet trains when our other trains are in bad shape?
About 15 years ago, I met an English man who was an expert in building bullet trains. He had been involved in bullet train projects in Japan and other countries. He told me that Indian Railways had invited him to collaborate on a project in the 1970s. Forty years later, he returned to India as a tourist and wanted to see the progress of that project. He visited the Vadodara Railway Headquarters and was shocked to find that no progress had been made in the past four decades.
He said it wasn’t wise for India to build bullet trains while regular trains were in such poor condition. I agree to some extent. I want India to have modern rail infrastructure, but existing trains should be perfected first. I understand the government might be trying to shift lower-middle-class passengers from non-AC sleeper to AC coaches, but can everyone afford it? Do they even want to? And even if they do, are tickets available? Of course not!
I understand many people prefer non-AC travel due to financial constraints, and the government should address this. While Indian Railways passenger trains operate at a loss, subsidized by freight services, it’s unacceptable to neglect the conditions of non-AC coaches. There needs to be a balance between financial viability and passenger comfort.
The only solution I can think of is to replace all non-AC sleeper class coaches with 3AC Economy and all unreserved class coaches with a metro train-type coach. Every train should be air-conditioned and equipped with clean toilets. This would require additional funding, which could be recovered by charging passengers equally or slightly more for those traveling in 3AC, 2AC, or 1AC. Railway stations also need improvement, and the waitlist system for tickets should be eliminated.
With the rising middle class, many Indians now travel by airplane, but the majority still can’t afford it. India’s vast population and immense size contribute to its significant challenges. Solving even small problems requires immense effort. It often feels like there’s a lack of will to address these issues despite visible solutions. Indian bureaucracy is plagued by corruption, laziness, and a focus on personal comfort rather than public service.
Indian train journeys can be delightful if you secure a confirmed seat in AC class. I prefer train travel for overnight journeys. I wish the government would prioritize addressing the core issues affecting ordinary citizens. While I support the development of bullet trains, I believe improving existing train services is equally important. We need safer, more comfortable trains, an end to ticket waitlists, and a reduction in accidents and derailments. India has made significant strides in railway infrastructure over the past decade, and I’m optimistic about future improvements. I hope to see a world-class railway system that surpasses global standards.
India, before invasion, was renowned as a “golden bird” due to its material prosperity, profound spiritual wisdom, and advanced scientific understanding. From physiology and its inner dimensions to the concept of the multiverse, discussions and innovations were already prevalent. However, this golden age was disrupted by the devastating era of Islamic invasions, leading to widespread destruction. Millions of lives were lost, and countless people were forcibly converted to Islam. It is estimated that over 60,000 Hindu, Jain, and Buddhist temples were razed to the ground.
The destruction of Nalanda University and its incomparable library, along with the countless Jain and Hindu temples sacrificed to build the Qutub Minar, are well-documented tragedies. The suffering endured by the sacred sites of Ayodhya, Mathura, and Varanasi is similarly heart-wrenching. Indeed, the historical atrocities inflicted upon India are vast and complex, defying concise summation. Ultimately, the nation was partitioned, with present-day Pakistan, Bangladesh, and Nepal once forming an integral part of India. Expanding the cultural perspective, Tibet and Afghanistan were also deeply intertwined with the Indian subcontinent.
Following the brutal Islamic era, British colonial rule ensued, often referred to as the “British Raj.” However, many argue it was essentially a “Christian Raj,” with colonial objectives mirroring those of their Muslim predecessors: exploitation of India’s wealth and proselytization of Christianity. While Mother Teresa is celebrated for her humanitarian work, her canonization is often attributed to her role in religious conversion, particularly among the Hindu population.
Her work among the impoverished was undeniably extraordinary, defying verbal description. While her humanitarian efforts were commendable, it’s also acknowledged that her primary objective included proselytizing Christianity, particularly within the Hindu community. Despite the actions of previous rulers, India gained independence on August 15, 1947, igniting hope among millions. However, the nation has grappled with persistent challenges such as corruption, poverty, and illiteracy.
India’s journey into independence was marred almost immediately by the Jeep scam of 1948, a stark indicator of the challenges to come. Since then, a seemingly endless stream of scandals has plagued successive governments. The pervasive nature of corruption is exemplified by former Prime Minister Rajiv Gandhi’s infamous assertion that only 15 paise of every rupee allocated for public welfare actually reaches its intended beneficiaries, with the remaining 85 paise siphoned off by politicians, bureaucrats, and their associates.
The frequency and scale of corruption escalated over time. Multi-million and even billion-dollar scams became commonplace. International aid and loans intended for poverty alleviation were diverted into the coffers of politicians and bureaucrats. The plunder extended beyond foreign funds to the nation’s natural resources. The coal and Commonwealth Games scams are infamous examples of this rampant corruption.
Corruption had become so normalized that it was expected at every level of society. Citizens anticipated bribes from government employees and police officers. The opulent lifestyles of politicians, often funded through illicit means, were accepted without question. This systemic corruption created a toxic environment where dishonesty permeated every sector, from government offices to private businesses.
Finally the 2014 elections came and Mr. Narendra Modi was introduced as the Prime Ministerial candidate of the BJP party. Mr. Narendra Modi had a reputation of being business friendly, honest but also anti-minority. The ruling party Congress made Mr. Modi’s reputation of being anti-minority a huge issue. The elections were polarized in the name of minority appeasement. Mr. Modi was labeled as an anti-minority because of the Gurjat riots which took place in the year 2002. Gujrat riots started when a group of Hindu pilgrims train was attacked by Muslims in Gujrat.
“A train carrying Hindu pilgrims was set on fire by a Muslim mob, resulting in the deaths of several people. This incident triggered widespread communal violence across the state. Mr. Modi, the then Chief Minister, was criticized for his handling of the riots. However, his reputation as a business-friendly and honest leader, coupled with his successful track record of bringing development to Gujarat, significantly contributed to his election as Prime Minister of India in 2014.”
When Mr. Modi became Prime Minister, people had high expectations. They anticipated rapid improvements in governance, including zero corruption, enhanced internal and external security, transparency, better infrastructure, increased financial prosperity, and overall progress. It is now 2024, and Mr. Modi has completed two terms as Prime Minister. We have witnessed significant changes on the ground level.
We have witnessed some of his popular schemes, such as housing for all, direct benefit transfers,digital transactions, universal tap water supply, affordable internet, an excellent new road network, improved electricity, and sanitation, bring about changes in people’s lives. Additionally, there have been no new scams reported in the government thus far. While it’s possible that scams exist but remain undisclosed due to the current administration, it’s also noteworthy how many previously corrupt leaders from other parties have adopted a clean image upon joining the BJP.
Anyways, Mr. Modi seems to be a lot better leader than any other option but one place where his karizma does not seem to work is the corruption on ground level. The corruption which people face in their daily lives, such as corruption in government offices and policing. I know that Policing is a matter of the state government and Mr. Modi can not do anything about it. I also know that most of the work which literally matters in people’s lives is done by the state governments. There are many central government run offices and institutions in different states but they are also somehow highly affected by the governance of the state.
I cannot think of a single government office where anyone can get any work done without offering a bribe. If I want a new electricity connection, I will have to offer a bribe. To build a house, I will have to bribe someone in the municipality and city development authority. Starting a business requires bribing the concerned authorities. Even getting a loan or registering a police complaint involves paying bribes.
The government of India has a program called housing for all. The way this scheme work is that if someone who has a piece of land but not a house then the government gives some money. The money is sent directly into the beneficiary’s account in four different installments. The beneficiary provides a plan, gets it approved by some government officer and then the amount is sent directly to the beneficiary’s account. But since there is an officer involved in between, he charges almost 20% bribe in advance, I have heard that at some places its even 40%.
So, I mean to say that corruption is prevalent in almost every aspect of life, and it’s often incredibly frustrating. I have countless personal experiences with corruption and would like to share a recent incident involving the birth of a child in my family and the death of my uncle. This case highlights corruption within the central government, state government, and private sector—a reflection of the broader corruption of humanity.
Let’s focus on the birth of my sister-in-law’s child. Most people who can afford private healthcare avoid government hospitals due to inefficiency caused by corruption. This isn’t about the quality of doctors but the poor service resulting from corruption. Patients are often neglected, with doctors and nurses absent or unwilling to see them. Senior residents handle most cases, and essential services like medicines are charged despite being supposedly free. The infrastructure is excellent on paper but poorly maintained.
My sister-in-law’s husband was unemployed when she was pregnant, so they opted for government hospital services, which were supposed to be free (including medicines, delivery, vaccines, supplements, and doctor fees). The day she went into labor, she was rushed to the hospital and, after much chaos, was admitted. They informed the family that she would deliver that night and that she was hemoglobin-deficient, requiring three units of blood. The family managed to find donors without difficulty.
The hospital planned to perform a caesarean section. When I visited her, I was appalled by the conditions. The mattresses were dirty, the bedsheets used, and garbage littered the floor. A single nurse was responsible for perhaps fifty patients, with many nursing duties delegated to family members. It was horrifying. To add insult to injury, the hospital demanded a bribe of Rs. 7000 for the delivery, payable in advance.
The surgery was scheduled for around 9 PM, but they demanded the money around 5 PM. Seven thousand rupees might not seem like a large sum to a middle-class Indian family, but it was a significant amount for someone unemployed. The father didn’t have the money and was struggling to arrange funds for his wife’s post-surgery care. This sudden, unexpected expense was overwhelming.
He questioned the hospital staff about the fee, given that the surgery was supposed to be free. The response was that while the surgery itself was free, a payment was still required. This money, they claimed, went directly to the doctor, and failure to pay could jeopardize the mother and child during the operation. Imagine the shock and fear this caused. The hospital employee explicitly threatened the well-being of the mother and child if the bribe wasn’t paid.
Despite lacking the funds, the father felt compelled to comply. He borrowed the money and gave it to the hospital employee. Only after the bribe was paid was his wife taken into the operating room. This harrowing ordeal illustrates the deep-rooted corruption a person faces even before birth in India.
Now let’s discuss the other incident involving my uncle’s death. One of my uncles died in a motorcycle accident a few months ago while returning home. He was alone when the accident occurred and was brought to the hospital by strangers. My uncle was still alive at the accident scene and gave his mobile phone to passersby, asking them to inform his family. They called some relatives using his phone and then took him to BHU, Varanasi’s largest hospital.
BHU is a centrally funded university with the region’s largest hospital. It’s the backbone of healthcare in eastern Uttar Pradesh and serves patients from neighboring states like Bihar and Madhya Pradesh. My uncle was brought to BHU’s trauma center already deceased. Upon arriving at the hospital, I found his body unattended. The doctor informed me that my uncle had been brought in dead and hadn’t been officially admitted. They asked if we wanted to take the body or if they should perform an autopsy. Indian law mandates an autopsy in cases of unnatural death. As an autopsy is required for insurance claims, loans, and other financial matters, we requested one.
BHU staff informed us that they no longer performed autopsies on-site. Instead, all autopsies were conducted at another government hospital about 10 kilometers away. They explained that they would first inform the police, who would then handle the paperwork before the body could be transferred. Our request for an autopsy initiated a series of frustrating and corrupt events.
The hospital had stretchers but stored them outside the trauma center. We were asked to fetch one ourselves, a minor inconvenience but a task that should have been handled by hospital staff, especially considering the emotional state of grieving families. After obtaining a stretcher, we waited for hospital personnel to assist in moving the body to the mortuary.
An hour later, someone arrived, but initially refused to touch the body, demanding that we move it to the stretcher. My brother and I were unable to do so alone and needed additional help. Despite our pleas, we were forced to move the body ourselves. We then had to transport the stretcher with the body approximately 300 meters to the mortuary.
Moving a stretcher with a body on it requires proper handling. I had no experience with stretchers but somehow managed to navigate it. We finally reached the mortuary, which could accommodate about four to six bodies. There was no hospital staff to open the mortuary or store the body. The accompanying hospital employee was only there for paperwork. He called someone, and after about thirty minutes, a severely intoxicated man arrived, reeking of alcohol.
He wasn’t a regular BHU employee but a temporary hire. I believe there should be a dedicated person for this job, but someone was likely avoiding their duties. This is a common issue in India, where government employees often delegate their work to others while still receiving a salary. I suspect this was a similar case. In fact, I know someone personally working at a village health center who never shows up for work. He’s anxious now because the government is implementing a biometric attendance system.
Anyway, this intoxicated man demanded payment for his services. He asked for 1000 rupees to move the body into the mortuary and later retrieve it. The real challenge began when we tried to move the body with this drunk man. Just the two of us, plus him, had to handle a body soaked in blood from the accident. The bleeding hadn’t stopped. With great difficulty, my brother and I managed to move the body into the mortuary with his help. Then the hospital staff told us to wait for the police.
He said they had already informed the police but suggested we contact them directly to speed up the process. He also mentioned that the autopsy hospital had a 4 PM cutoff and if we were late, the autopsy would be postponed until the next day. He warned that if we arrived after the cutoff, there might not be mortuary space available for the night. Now we had to decide whether to proceed with the autopsy that day or wait until the following day.
It was already 1 PM, leaving us just three hours to complete the police paperwork and reach the other hospital. The police finally arrived around 3 PM. They asked the intoxicated man to remove the body from the mortuary. He again requested our help, which we reluctantly provided. As we placed the body on the floor, blood gushed out everywhere. This is clearly a job for trained professionals, not family members. Despite the mess, we managed to position the body on the bare floor while the police questioned the intoxicated man about the body’s condition.
I was astonished to see the police officers didn’t even examine the body. They sat about 20 meters away, conversing with the intoxicated man. The officer recorded the man’s description of the body: fair complexion, a jaw injury, a scratch above the eyebrow, and the clothing color. Meanwhile, we were tasked with arranging an ambulance to transport the body to the other hospital. It’s unbelievable that such a large hospital lacked an ambulance, or perhaps they were unwilling to provide one. We were directed to contact private ambulance services.
We found a vehicle with “ambulance” written on it, but it wasn’t a real ambulance. The seating arrangement was the only difference from a regular car. The person helping us find an ambulance warned me that these ambulance drivers often charge extra and that I might need to negotiate. It was heartbreaking to realize that even in death, corruption and bargaining were involved. Overwhelmed, I simply asked him to find an ambulance. The police then demanded a special packing material that was sold outside. Neither the police nor the hospital had any.
We found the required packing material at a nearby store. It was a large plastic bag with the Uttar Pradesh Police logo. With the drunken man’s assistance, we placed the body in the bag and sealed it properly using wax and a hospital logo. We managed to leave BHU around 3:20 PM, giving us only 20 minutes to reach the other hospital. We arrived just in time and handed over the body, waiting outside. To my astonishment, the body was returned to us within 45 minutes. I’ve always questioned how such a complex procedure could be completed so quickly.
It appears they simply opened the body cavity and closed it without performing any actual procedures. They probably copied the information directly from the police report, which was inaccurate as it was dictated by the intoxicated man, not the police themselves. The body was returned to us, and we cremated it that evening. My uncle’s family went to their ancestral village for post-cremation rituals and later returned to Varanasi to obtain the death certificate after two weeks.
Typically, death and birth certificates are issued by the municipality. We contacted the municipality, and they requested a police report. At the police station, we were informed that the report was under process and would take at least a week to complete. They suggested finding the specific officer who created the report. After locating the officer, we were told that police reports are confidential and not shared with families. We could apply for a certified copy once the report was submitted to the police commissioner’s office. As an alternative, the officer offered to provide an unofficial, unsealed copy, which he claimed would suffice for the municipality.
We asked the municipality official for the non-official police report. We returned to the police officer and witnessed him making a phone call to another officer on speakerphone. The other officer agreed to prepare the report if we “took care” of him, a clear request for a bribe. It was unimaginable to be extorted in such a manner while grieving a loss.
By this time, we already knew someone who could help us, but we decided to try another option. We contacted someone at a larger police station’s communication department, who agreed to provide the report. We were told to return the next day to collect it. When we arrived, the officer openly asked for a bribe. He was young, probably around 27 or 28, and demanded whatever we could give him. My cousin offered the only cash he had, 200 rupees, but the officer insisted on more.
After a few minutes of negotiation, he handed us the report, and we left without further conversation. So, he did demand a bribe but ultimately received nothing. We obtained the certificate, but the ordeal was far from over. We later discovered a misspelling of my uncle’s name on the report, rendering it useless. The next day, we visited the municipality office, where we were informed that due to the involvement of the police and BHU, the death certificate would be issued by BHU, not the municipality.
We contacted the BHU office the next day to explain the name misspelling issue. The officer stated that it didn’t matter and they would use the name from the ID card, not the police report. This was a relief. We filled out the required form and submitted it. Inquiring about the processing time, we received a surprising response. The officer mentioned it could take a week if the government website was functioning correctly, but it might take one to two months if the website was down. When we asked about the website’s reliability, he explained that it often experienced technical difficulties, hindering certificate generation.
I was astonished that while India boasts of widespread smartphone usage, 5G internet, and globally renowned tech professionals, our government websites are dysfunctional. Eventually, we navigated the university bureaucracy and obtained the certificate within three days.
Comparing these two cases, we find starkly contrasting situations: one involving a yet-to-be-born child and the other a deceased individual. Multiple institutions were implicated: a state-run hospital for the caesarean section, a central government hospital like BHU, another state-run hospital for the autopsy, state police, and a private ambulance service. The common thread throughout this ordeal was corruption at every step. One life was adversely affected before birth, while the other continued to grapple with its consequences even in death.
Everyone in India experiences corruption at some level, but people seem desensitized to it. One of India’s most significant problems is poverty, primarily caused by corruption and overpopulation. I believe poverty could be eradicated within a few decades if corruption were eliminated. I once met an American working for the World Bank in Bangladesh who had just completed a ten-year project there. He was visiting India on vacation before returning home.
He told me that the World Bank provided substantial funds for road construction in Bangladesh, but corruption prevented the completion of even a single project. He explained that projects were intentionally delayed as a pretext to request more money. Consequently, projects were perpetually delayed, and no one benefited. He admitted to not completing a single project in his ten-year career. India also faced similar issues under previous governments, but there seems to be improvement under Prime Minister Modi. While hopeful about Modi’s leadership, I recognize the challenge of tackling corruption. His reputation makes him a target for opposition, even to his positive initiatives. It’s essential for everyone to prioritize the fight against corruption if India and its people are to realize their full potential.
इस पोस्ट को लिखने के पीछे मेरा केवल एक धेय है मैं कोविड पॉजिटिव से नेगेटिव होने तक के अपने अनुभव को लोगों के साथ साझा कर सकूं जिससे दूसरों की मदद हो सके. लेकिन मैं एक बात स्पष्ठ कर देना चाहता हूँ की मैं कोई डॉक्टर नहीं हूँ, और न ही इस पोस्ट के माध्यम से मैं किसी को कोरोना के ईलाज के सम्बन्ध में कोई सलाह दे रहा हूँ. हर किसी का शरीर अलग होता है तथा एक ही बीमारी अलग अलग लोगों के साथ अलग अलग तरह से व्यवहार करती है. इसलिए कृपया इस पोस्ट को केवल मेरा अनुभव ही समझे और उससे ज्यादा कुछ भी नहीं. हाँ एक व्यक्तिगत सलाह जरूर देंगे की यदि आपको जरा भी आशंका है की आप कोरोना पॉजिटिव हो सकते हैं तो बिना देरी के अपना टेस्ट करवाएं एवं डॉक्टर से उचित सलाह ले कर ही कोई भी काम करें.
मेरे लिए कोरोना पॉजिटिव होना एक आम इंसान के कोरोना पॉजिटिव होने से बहुत ज्यादा खतरनाक था क्योकि मैं अपने लीवर ट्रांसप्लांट के बाद से immunosuppressive दवाएं लेता हूँ जो मेरे शरीर के रोग से लड़ने की क्षमता को कमजोर रखता है. जहाँ कोरोना के ईलाज के लिए सभी डॉक्टर केवल रोग प्रतिरोधक क्षमता को मजबूत रखना ही इस महामारी का ईलाज बताते हैं वहीँ मजबूरन मैं अपनी रोक प्रतिरोधक क्षमता को कमजोर करने की दावा लेता था. और इस दवा के लेने की वजह से मुझे ये मालूम था की मेरे लिए कोरोना से लड़ना किसी दुसरे आम इन्सान की तुलना में थोडा कठिन होने वाला था. कोरोना जांच की रिपोर्ट आने के पहले ही मुझे इस बात का अंदाज़ हो चूका था की मैं कोरोना पॉजिटिव था क्योकि मेरे सूंघने की शक्ति बिल्कुल क्षीण हो चुकी थी.
जैसे ही मुझे ये अहसाह हुआ था मैं कोरोना पॉजिटिव हो सकता हूँ मैंने सर्वप्रथम अपने आपको बाकी के परिवार के सदस्यों से पूरी तरह से अलग कर लिया था. जब रिपोर्ट आ गयी उसके बाद सबसे पहले मैंने अपने लीवर के डॉक्टर को ILBS हॉस्पिटल में सूचना दी. उन्होंने बोला की immunosuppressive दवाएं बंद कर दो क्योकि कोरोना के ईलाज में रोग प्रतिरोधक क्षमता मजबूत होनी चाहिए और मेरी दवाएं उसको कमजोर रखने के लिए हैं. ये मेरे लिए बहुत विचित्र स्थिति थी क्योकि यदि immunosuppressive दवाएं बंद होती हैं तो मेरे ट्रांसप्लांट हुए लीवर के लिए घातक है और यदि वो दवाएं लेते रहे तो कोरोना के ईलाज के लिए घातक.
उन्होंने मुझे कोरोना के ईलाज से सम्बंधित कुछ दवाएं भी दी. मेरे डॉक्टर का कहना था की कोरोना के लिए कोई विशेष दवा नहीं बनी है, व्यक्ति का खुद का शरीर ही कोरोना से लड़ता है. साथ में जो दवाएं दी जाती हैं वो केवल शरीर की आधारभूत जरूरतों को पूरा करने के लिए दी जाती हैं जैसे मल्टीविटामिन, जिंक और विटामिन C. मुझे मात्र यही 3 दवाएं दी गयी थी, इसके अलावा कुछ भी नहीं. इसके साथ में मुझे दूध-हल्दी, दिन में कम से कम 4 बार भाप लेना, प्राणायाम, सांस लेने से सम्बंधित दूसरे व्यायाम और स्पाईरोमीटर से दिन में 3-4 बार व्यायाम करने के लिए बोला गया. साथ में अपना पल्स रेट और ऑक्सीजन लेवल भी देखते रहने को बोला गया.
मेरे डॉक्टर ने बोला की घर पर आराम करना है, संतुलित भोजन करना है और यदि सांस लेने में तकलीफ होती है तो तुरंत किसी पास के कोविड हॉस्पिटल में एडमिट हो जाना है. डॉक्टर ने ये भी बोला की यदि ऑक्सीजन लेवल 95 से नीचे होता है तो डॉक्टर से संपर्क करना चाहिए. मुझे ऑक्सीजन लेवल का अंदाज़ पहले से था क्योकि अपने लीवर के ईलाज के समय मैं काफी समय तक ऑक्सीजन सपोर्ट पर था और मुझे इस बात का अंदाज़ था की अगर ऑक्सीजन लेवल 90 तक भी पहुच जाता है तो उसमे हॉस्पिटल की तुरंत जरूरत नहीं है. इसके अलावा कुछ स्वास से सम्बंधित व्यायाम भी मुझे काफी पहले से मालूम थे जिसको करने से शरीर का ऑक्सीजन लेवल बढाने में मदद मिलती है जैसे की Proning या कुछ योग एवं प्राणायाम.
प्रोनिंग एक प्रकार की बैठने, लेटने और सांस लेने की विशेष अवस्था है जिसके द्वारा ज्यादा से ज्यादा सांस फेफड़ों में भरी जा सके ताकि शरीर का ऑक्सीजन लेवल बना रहे. प्रोनिंग और योग द्वारा ऑक्सीजन लेवल बढाने की प्रक्रिया लगभग एक सी ही है बस करने का तरीका थोडा अलग है. प्रोनिंग में भी एक विशेष अवस्था में बैठ कर या लेट कर फेफड़ों में ज्यादा से ज्यादा ऑक्सीजन भरने की बात की जाती है और योग प्राणायाम तो पूरी तरह से सांस भरने और छोड़ने पर आधारित प्रक्रिया है. लेकिन इनमे से किसी को भी करने के पहले मुझे ऐसा लगता है की किसी विशेषज्ञ की सलाह लेनी चाहिए. योग प्राणायाम से ऑक्सीजन लेवल बनाये रखने के लिए बाबा रामदेव भी कई आसनों और प्राणायाम बताते हैं जिसको इस विडियो में देख सकते हैं-
मेरे पॉजिटिव होने के कुछ दिन बाद से एक एक कर के मेरे घर के सभी सदस्य कोविड पॉजिटिव हो गए और हम सभी लोगों ने वहीँ दवाइयां ली जो मेरे डॉक्टर ने मुझे बताई थी और वही दिनचर्या का पालन किया जैसा डॉक्टर ने बोला था. मेरे बड़े भाई ने बनारस के किसी डॉक्टर के द्वारा बताई गयी दवाइयां ली थी जो मेरे दवाइयों से थोड़ी अलग थी. बनारस में डॉक्टर मल्टी विटामिन, जिंक, विटामिन C के साथ में Doxycycline, Montelukast and Fexofenadine और Ivermectin भी दे रहे थे जबकि मैंने केवल मल्टीविटामिन, जिंक और विटामिन C ही लिया था. अंततः 15 दिन बाद मैंने अपना RT PCR टेस्ट करवाया और रिपोर्ट नेगेटिव आ गई और एक एक कर के परिवार के सभी सदस्य भी नेगेटिव हो गए.
पॉजिटिव से नेगेटिव होने के इस दौर में जो महत्वपूर्ण बातें नोटिस किया जिससे मुझे बहुत मदद मिली वो थी-
जैसे ही शंका हुआ मैंने तुरंत अपना टेस्ट करवा लिया जिससे की मुझे ये पता चल गया की मुझे कोविड का इन्फेक्शन है जिससे मुझे मेरा ईलाज सही समय पर शुरू करने में मदद मिली. आज सभी का ये मानना है की यदि कोविड के इन्फेक्शन का पता सही समय पर चल जाये तो इससे लड़ाई आसान हो जाती है. नहीं तो अगर ये इन्फेक्शन बढ़ गया तो फिर दुनिया जानती है की इसकी कोई दवा नहीं है. इसलिए अगर जरा सा भी शंका हो की कोविड का इन्फेक्शन हो सकता है तो तुरंत टेस्ट करवाना चाहिए और डॉक्टर के निर्देशन में अपना ईलाज शुरू कर देना चाहिए.
अपने आपको सबसे अलग कर लेना और घर पर भी रहना बहुत महत्वपूर्ण है क्योकि कोविड शरीर के रोग प्रतिरोधक क्षमता को कमजोर कर देता है और यदि उस समय कोई घर के बाहर आता जाता है या दूसरे व्यक्तियों के संपर्क में आता है तो उसे दूसरा इन्फेक्शन भी आने का खतरा होता है और साथ ही साथ वो अपना इन्फेक्शन दूसरे को भी दे देता है क्योकि कोरोना बहुत ही जबरदस्त संक्रामक वायरस है जो एक व्यक्ति से दूसरे व्यक्ति में बहुत आसानी से फ़ैल जाता है. कई वैज्ञानिक तो यहाँ तक बोल रहे है की ये हवा से फैलने वाला वायरस है इसलिए अपने आपको आइसोलेट कर लेने में ही समझदारी है.
भाप लेना बहुत मदद किया – मेरे डॉक्टर ने मुझे दिन में 3-4 बार भाप लेने के लिए बोला था जिसका मुझे बहुत फायदा महसूस हुआ. शायद इसी वजह से मुझे खांसी या खरास की दिक्कत नहीं हुई. भाप लेने के लिए शुरू के 2-3 दिन मैंने घर पर ही बड़े बर्तन में पानी गर्म कर के भाप लिया लेकिन उसके बाद एक छोटी मशीन खरीद लिया जिससे काम और आसान हो गया. भाप लेने सम्बंधित भी कुछ नियम है जिसका पालन करना चाहिए.
स्पाईरोमीटर – स्पाईरोमीटर एक छोटा सा यन्त्र होता है जिसका इस्तेमाल फेफड़ों और सांस सम्बंधित व्यायाम करने के लिए किया जाता है. इसमें बंद चौकोर डिब्बे में 3 बाल होती हैं जिससे एक पाइप जुडी होती है. उसी पाइप से सांस अन्दर खीचने पर वो बालें ऊपर की और उठती हैं. जितनी जोर से सांस खींचा जायेगा उतनी ज्यादा बाल ऊपर उठती है. ये फेफड़ों के लिए बहुत ही बेहतरीन व्यायाम है. मेरे डॉक्टर ने मुझे ये व्यायाम दिन में 4-5 बार करने के लिए बोला था.
दूध हल्दी का सेवन करना हमेशा से ही अच्छा माना गया है जिसको आयुर्वेद और अंग्रेजी डॉक्टर दोनों लोग मान्यता देते हैं. दूध हल्दी से रोग प्रतिरोधक क्षमता मजबूत है जो की कोरोना से लड़ने का एकमात्र उपाय है. इसका सेवन करने की सलाह भी मुझे मेरे डॉक्टर ने दिया था. इसके साथ में हल्का, सुपाच्य और स्वास्थ्कारी भोजन (घर का बना हुआ ज्यादा तेल, घी, मसाले वाला नहीं) करने की सलाह दी गयी थी.
कुल मिलाजुला कर मेरा अनुभव ये रहा की यदि कोरोना का इन्फेक्शन सही समय पर पता चल जाये और यदि व्यक्ति डॉक्टर की सलाह माने तो इस इन्फेक्शन को ख़त्म करने में बहुत मदद मिल सकती है. इसलिए यदि जरा सी भी शंका हो तो तुरंत टेस्ट करवाना चाहिए. दूसरी बहुत महत्वपूर्ण बात ये की इस इन्फेक्शन को लेकर घबराना नहीं चाहिए. मैंने देखा है की लोग कोरोना का नाम सुनते ही बहुत ज्यादा डर जाते हैं. जहाँ तक हो सके सकारात्मक रहने का प्रयास करना चाहिए, घर पर हैं तो अपने पसंद की फिल्म देखिये, किताबें पढ़िए….कोई भी काम जो बिना किसी दूसरे से मिले जुले हो सकता है. जहाँ तक हो सके हॉस्पिटल से दूरी बनाने में ही समझदारी है.
मुझे ऐसा लगता है की यदि मेरे जैस आदमी जिसका मात्र 5 महीने पहले लीवर ट्रांसप्लांट हुआ हो, जो immunosupressive दवाएं लेता हो अगर वो इस वायरस को परास्त कर सकता है तो कोई भी व्यक्ति सही निर्णय लेकर कोरोना को परास्त कर सकता है. जैसा की मैंने शुरू में लिखा है की ये लेख मेरा व्यक्तिगत अनुभव मात्र है और इससे ज्यादा कुछ नहीं. मैं कोई डॉक्टर नहीं हूँ ना ही मुझे कोरोना या उससे सम्बंधित कोई वैज्ञानिक जानकारी है. इसलिए इस लेख को एक सच्ची कहानी से ज्यादा कुछ भी न समझे. कुछ भी परेशानी होने पर तुरंत डॉक्टर से संपर्क करें और उनके निर्देशानुसार ही अपना इलाज करें.
Tourism is life line of Varanasi and biggest attraction for tourists has always been Kashi Vishwanath Temple and the river Ganga. I can’t even think of any tourist of pilgrim coming to Varanasi without having desire to at least visit Kashi Vishwanath Temple and have at least one boat ride on the river. As per the data of UP Tourism board nearly 7 million tourists had visited Varanasi in the 2017 and the number is growing every year. But because of bad infrastructure Varanasi was not able to impress tourists and pilgrims as much as it should have done. The city was a complete mess until 2014. Luckily Varanasi elected Mr. Narendra Modi as the member of parliament from Varanasi and he is also the current Prime Minister of India now.
Ganga Cruise Alaknanda
During his tenure of past 4 years this city has changed a lot. They worked a lot for cleanliness under Swatch Bharat Mission which had huge positive impact on the city. Mr. Modi always talks about tourism hence he personally took interest in developing tourism facilities in Varanasi. And the most recent change is Ganga Cruise. We had small boats (hand rowing and engine run both) which can handle 4-6 people. Hand rowing boats are fine but the there was a huge increase in number of engine boats which had basically ruined the whole experience. It is very loud and since it is run on a diesel engine it creates huge pollution. People want to have peace when they go on a boat but these boats were very bad.
Ganga Cruise Alaknanda
I have had so many guests who were disappointed with the boats. If fact they were willing to pay extra to have a bigger, safer and comfortable boat but it was not possible at all because we did not have any other option. But finally we have Ganga cruise as well which will leave positive impact on tourism in Varanasi and will definitely attract more tourists. The government has started this new cruise named Alaknanda and I have been told that it is a double-decker cruise ship which will be able to carry more than 100 passengers at any given time. The liner is equipped with 60 luxurious sofas to make your voyage incredibly comfortable and have eco-friendly bio-toilets. It also has an extensively equipped kitchen which will serve both veg and non-veg dishes to please your taste buds.
Ganga Cruise Alaknanda
The lower deck of the cruise is fully air-conditioned and has a small stage which boosts all the needed multimedia functionality. To keep you connected to the modern world it also offers free on-board WiFi. The upper deck is a restaurant and will let you enjoy the view while hogging on your favorite food! The cruise is even equipped with numerous safety features and an on-board lifeguard for emergencies. When Cabinet Minister Mr. Nitin Gadhkari proposed the idea of Motorways, many People mocked him….but look at it….it is indeed happening…..it is the future.
Something really strange happened with me today that made me realize the condition of the tourist guides in India. My brother who is an Italian tour escort called me a few days ago saying that one of his friends from Varanasi wanted to start a travel agency and needed my advise. He had already visited my websites and was impressed with it. Finally I got a call from this gentleman interested in starting a travel agency in Varanasi. He basically needed suggestions tours that could really attract foreign tourists.
I told him about the unique things I knew about Varanasi that I show to my guests like road side dental clinic, bull shop, facebook baba, walking tours. I told him a little bit about the concept of LGBT tourism also. Everything was fine, we had a nice conversation but suddenly he told me that he had a group of foreign tourists traveling to Varanasi and he needed a tourist to show them around. I was going to tell him about Incredible India office in Varanasi but he said something that just shocked me seriously.
He said that he had heard that tourist guides in Varanasi charge a fee for their work and I was what??? I asked where there is a place where they do not charge a fee? And he said that tourist guides in cities like Agra and Delhi do not charge any fee and they work for free. I asked him why somebody would like to work for free and he did not know why such thing could happen but he was so confident as he had already used service of such guides who work for free.
I knew why guides sometimes work for free. It is because they are more interested in bringing their guests to shops rather than showing them around. I told this to him and he asked me if there was no such scene in Varanasi. I told him that I was not aware of such guides for sure. I told him that there is a set rate decided by the government of India and in fact Varanasi is the most expensive place to hire a tourist guide because tourism starts before sunrise and ends after sunset in Varanasi hence guides are paid for 3 half days (4 hours each).
But he really needed a free tourist guide even after knowing that these free guides take the guests to shops and not to the tourist sites. I called my brother asking if such things happen in Delhi and Agra and my brother also said that yes there are such guides who work for free. But once you are with them they start telling you so many crazy stories and bring you to the shop that finally you buy something and they get a commission. I really could not imagine how someone could even think that tourist guides are free?
His guests will be staying at the Radission Hotel in Varanasi and I know that not everyone can stay there. The people who stay at hotels like Radission are rich tourists and I was wondering about them that even after paying so much money and spending so much time they would meet a guide who works for free and brings their guests to the shops instead of touristic sites. My brother and a lot of other tourist guides tell me the same story that they are still treated as a guy who entertain tourists by telling funny them stories.
There is no standard of tourist guides in India and I also notice the same. I feel really proud that I am tourist guide because it is really nice profession. I meet people from all over the world, I teach them and they teach me and finally I make money which is good on India standard. India is known for being delayed all the time and we are only people who are always on time (when working 🙂 We represent our country which is a huge and very important responsibility. Ministry of Tourism calls us tourist guides cultural ambassador of India.
I think government of India should take some steps to make tourist guides respected in India. During my tour guide training I was told that Ministry of Tourism was planning to start an annual award for best tourist guides from different regions to encourage tourists guides to provide best services and people to take interest in it. Whatever was told to us about government planning seemed very nice but today when I see what government has done in favor of tourism then everything seems the same. I recently visited Incredible India website and I was shocked to see when it was updated last time.
Incredible India is the most famous brand of tourism in India. One can see the importance of this word just by googling India, India tourism, tourism in India. I think people google these words way before they buy their flight tickets and the first link that appears on Google is Incredible India website which has all these information that comes from world war II time. They are still saluting the medal winners of commonwealth games which took place last year.
They request tourists to use only authorized tourist guides but do not have any list of them. There are awards mentioned on the website but there is no category for best tourist guide, I don’t know when the government will take tourism seriously. Tourism already contributes 5.90% to our GDP and this percentage can increase a lot only by making small changes but… I don’t know when government will start thinking about such issues but they really need to.
I am very happy and proud today that government took my citizen report seriously and took some action against the corrupt government employees. Today I visited Sarnath to make a followup report and I was really shocked to see the change. A lot of my colleagues had already told me about the change in system at Sarnath but I was really not expecting for that huge change. The first change that I noticed is that staffs at the ticket counter were different. Actually the main guy who was involved in the scam was transferred first and later suspended (maybe, not sure yet).
new tickets with bar code and unique number
I bought the ticket as I entered in the monument I saw second change. The ticket looked different. This new ticket had a bar code and a unique number. The third change was that the ticket checker was different. He took my ticket, teared off into two parts, kept one part with himself and returned one part back to me. Fourth change was that my camera was checked whether it was a still photography camera or a video camera. Actually there is a charge of Rs. 25 for filming and they just wanted to make sure that I was not going to film anything without paying the fee.
tickets were teard off
Fifth change was that now there was a metal box instead of a sack to collect the ticket and this metal box was locked which means once the tickets go inside no one can take them and resell them. I went inside for a walk and again noticed changes. Now there were more security guards really working. They were walking continuously, stopping people from walking over the ruins, helping people and they all looked very active. After walking for an hour and making the report I just went near to the entrance gate and sat there for a while to see the affect of my report.
new ticket checker
I saw that each and every ticket was checked, teared off and was kept in the box. I saw another change of stopping people from bringing any eatable items inside so that people do not throw the waste and monument stays clean. I had also noticed monument was a lot cleaner than it used to be. Finally I wanted to photograph the new employee and I did not know how to ask him for it. I made a plan that I asked my friend to stop me once I reach near the exit and get photographed. This way we wanted to pretend that I was getting photographed but in reality we wanted to photograph the new employee.
shaked hand happily cause he did not know that I was the who exposed the curroption
We did the same, as I reached near to the entrance gate, Babu called me and said that I should get photographed in front of the entrance also. I stopped there and was pretending to be photographed and suddenly the ticket checker called me and did exactly what I wanted. He asked me to come close to him and get photographed together. He did not know that I was responsible for all the change. He did not know that he was transferred to Varanasi only because of me. He did not know that he could not make any illegal money by reselling the tickets because of me. hahahaha.
I was a little bit nervous about they identifying me but nobody could identify me as all of the staffs were new. I had really great time today and I was so so happy and proud to see the change. CNN IBN again showed my report.
CNN IBN contacted me a few weeks ago asking about corruption related stories from Varanasi. They said that they have a show called citizen journalist in which the people themselves become the journalist and expose the crime. I already knew about this program as it is very popular in India and decided to give them some stories. Actually they had contacted me after reading my blog so they had already read a few corruption stories that I had written on my blog. I had also been noticing corruption on ever level just like another Indian citizen and now I had a platform to talk about it.
excavation site
Anyways, I gave them total of four stories- one about corruption in MNREGA, corruption in drinking water supply system in Varanasi, corruption in sewage treatment plants, encroachment over old and sacred ponds of Varanasi and scam in ticketing at Sarnath. They asked me to find someone who was personally affected by these corruptions and would like to come on camera and talk about it. I contacted Lok Samiti to find someone who had faced any kind of corruption in MNREGA. I knew about a social worker named Shanti Lal Jain who has worked a lot on Ganga and contacted him to talk about corruption in sewage treatment plants.
Stupa at Sarnath
I had recently read a magazine which talked about a retired engineer who used his right to information act to ask government about the present condition of ponds in Varanasi and High Court of Uttar Pradesh asking Varanasi city administration to restore all the ponds that were illegally captured after 1957. I contacted this gentleman and he also agreed on telling the story to CNN IBN. Now it was turn of scam in ticketing at Sarnath which I had personally noticed several times, actually every time I went to Sarnath ever since I got my tourist guide license.
entrance gate of the site
The scam in Sarnath was that the ticket collectors at the entrance of the excavation site would keep the whole ticket with themselves and resell it. Whereas by law they are supposed to tear off the ticket into two parts, keep one part with themselves and give one part back to the tourists. This scam was going on in Sarnath with the support of government employees and tourist guides as well. If tourist guides support them then they also get a cut. I was also offered the same service several times but I never supported them as I always believe in this Hindi saying- खाना है तो हांथी का लीद खाओ, गधे का नहीं (if you want to eat the shit then eat the shit of an elephant better than the shit of a donkey :))
filming of the show
The area of my work is full of such opportunities where I can get commission all the time when I feel better asking for money rather than bringing my guests to shop so that I get some money. Anyways, I had always thought to do something about stopping this corruption and now I had a chance. But I was a little bit worried about about my safety. I called my brother who is also an Italian interpreter and works in tourism industry to have his advice and he was like go and fuck those people.
explaning the corruption
So I agreed to work on this story with CNN IBN. In order to prepare for the story CNN IBN asked me collect some evidence of the corruption. I went to Sarnath with my friend Babu and we filmed the ticket collector taking the tickets and keeping them direct in a sack. Finally the crew arrived in Varanasi and at first they worked on other stories. All of the stories were successful and affective. The woman who had faced corruption in the MNREGA got her salary and Varanasi administration started working on the ponds.
volunteer Erica
I needed a few foreign volunteers to act like my guests. I advertised on couchsurfing and a few people wrote me also but finally I ended up choosing a British couple staying at my guesthouse. We went together to Sarnath on the filming day and first they filmed me working, talking with people, doing things… Finally they went close to the entrance and sat about 30-40 miters away and filmed people coming inside, handing over the ticket to the ticket collector and ticket collector keeping the whole ticket in the sack.
the ticket collector at the gate
After they had enough evidence we went for lunch. I was not enjoying lunch at all as I was really tense about what was going to happen next. I was mostly worried about ASI taking some action against me. They could easily cancel my license by saying that I was found scratching the monument or something. I knew that the local officers would not be happy with myself after exposing the crime. Finally lunch was finished and I was asked to come on camera and explain the crime by standing right next to the entrance gate.
very tense moment
As the big camera appeared and I was holding the mic, so many people came to us. I was surrounded by at least 50 people who were trying to understand what I was talking about. Luckily the show was in English hence not many people understood what I talking about. At first they asked me to explain the corruption and then we bought a ticket and gave it to one of the volunteers and asked her to go inside, give the ticket to the ticket collector and see what happens.
filming
Obviously the ticket collector took the ticket and kept it right away in the sack and this was the moment when we entered in with the camera. As the ticket collector saw us he immediately teared off the ticket, went to our volunteer to return half portion of the ticket. We asked him why did not he tear off the ticket right away and then ran away from there. Now there was no government employee at the entrance so we checked the sack and found more than 500 fresh tickets which were all going to resold.
Babu, Erica, Chitra and I
We were filming all this and suddenly one government employee who was posted at the ticket counter came. We asked him how come all these tickets were not teared off and he had this really funny excuse that all the Sri Lankan tourists who come to Sarnath just throw the tickets on the street so they collect it and finally tear them off in the evening time after the monument is closed which was completely false because I had personally seen them taking the tickets out of sack and bringing them back to the ticket counter so that they could resell it.
the officer in charge's office
After he could not answer us, he asked us to come inside his office where he had this another funny excuse that the young couples who come to Sarnath everyday throw the tickets on the street because they do not want to be caught at home that they went to Sarnath. I was kind of laughing after hearing all these funny excuses. We came back to the entrance gate to talk with a few visitors and suddenly this lady showed up asking what was going on. She asked us to ask her questions as she was also an employee of ASI who was posted at the museum.
We asked her if she was aware of the scam and she was like yes, I have seen it hundreds of times. We were shocked but it was really good that she admitted it. She also said that tickets are resold and each and every government employee working at the excavation site is involved. Finally we went to the officer in-charge of Sarnath but he also ran away as he saw us. Story was completed and I was feeling so proud to have done it. I was really happy with the public support.
When we were filming at the entrance gate, we were surrounded by 100s of people who shouting fuck these corrupt people, don’t leave them…I think this support gave me real power and energy that I was able to expose the crime. The next morning all of the news papers reported this news but none of them talked about me or CNN IBN. Although they said that the officer in-charge of Sarnath, who had ran away after seeing us, said that he was not aware of such corruption and would take action against the people involved in it.
I know it very well that he was also part of the corruption and had intentionally given this news to media so that people think that he did not know about this corruption. I asked CNN IBN to contact the regional office of ASI in Patna and head office in New Delhi and ask them to take some action. I hope that ASI will take some action and now I also feel much secured because of that lady officer of ASI who had admitted that this corruption of reselling of tickets was going on in Sarnath. Here is the link of the show on CNN IBN website-
I got this really special opportunity to visit Tarun Bharat Sanghand get a training about environment, especially rivers, personally from Mr. Rajendra Singh. Mr. Rajendra Singh who is one of the members of Ganga Basin Authority is involved in Coca-Cola issue in Varanasi as well and my colleague Mr. Nandlal Master is the main leader behind Coke movement in Varanasi. Nandlal Master told me that Mr. Singh was not happy with the way government of India was dealing with Ganga. He was demanding for a river policy and community involvement in the program and wanted to encourage people to think about it and ask the government for same. I also believe in the community involvement in non-profit projects.
our whole group at a work site of TBS
He wanted to start this campaign from Varanasi and needed support of local people and organizations. He asked Nandlal Master to organize community in Varanasi and Nanlal Master asked me to organize the boat rower community in the city area. So finally we organized two meetings between the boat rower community and Rajendra Singh. After seeing our interest in Ganga, Mr. Singh offered us a training of five days at his NGO in Alwar, Rajasthan. We made three groups of trainees- 5 from the boat rower community, 5 from my group and 5 from Nandlal Master’s NGO and we all went to Tarun Bharat Sangh to get training.
wall paintings at TBS
Tarun Bharat Sangh provided us fund to buy the train tickets and arranged our lodging and fooding at their NGO. Mr. Singh was not present at the office the day we arrived there but he had given the responsibility of training us to the General Secretary of TBS Mr. Kanhaiya Lal Gurjar. Our training included class room teaching and site visit both. In the first session on the first day we were introduced about the TBS, the local area, the people and some other general things. They especially focused on how they were able to make five dead rivers alive again only by educating community about traditional knowledge of ecology of rivers and right usage of water. It was really interesting to see how they had great belief in the traditional knowledge and the way people used to behave with their enviornment.
small dam calld Johad
Mr. Kanahaiya told us that all the five dead rivers went dead because community had forgotten its own knowledge of ecology and had become completely dependent on the government. He said that one of the biggest reasons behind their success was community’s active involvement in all of their projects. Actually they built several small dams called “Johad” on several rivers so that at least water stays in the river always asked the community to spend 25% of the costing. They always had enough money to fund the entire project but they always wanted the community to feel their responsibility and to make them responsible, using their money seemed best idea to them.
This river has water all year long
They built several small dams one after each other on all of the rivers they worked on. Mr Gurjar said that these small dams are good because they recharge the ground water which means that people who are not living close to the river will also have access to water through their wells. Mr. Singh they got huge community support when people started getting water in their dried wells. A lot of people from far away villages came to TBS asking to built such small dams on the rivers which were close to their villages.
such pools used to be dry but now they are full with water
I also believe the same and have used the same system in Chance India Program as well and it worked very well. Anyways, they built all those small dams but it was a huge challenge for them because they did not have good maps of the area so they had to do the mapping first. They really needed good maps because building dams just anywhere was not going to solve their problems. They had to do huge data collection of almost everything such as ponds, wells, canals and everything. And based on the data they made a plan and implemented it.
community money is always involved in TBS's projects
He said that in the ancient time people were more aware about usage of water and they had a simple but good way of calculating the quantity of water they used. He said that in the ancient time people would take the water out of the wells for irrigation depending on the rain fall they had. If there was less rain fall then they would take less water out of their wells but now there is no such system. Now people have starting growing crops like rice which needs a lot of water and government has no control or any program to educate people.
Mr. Gurjar explaining a site
Anyways, it was really good getting training from Mr. Gurjar. He was really knowledgeable person. He took us on site visits for three days and showed us their work. We were shocked to see their work. It was just awesome. All of the rivers had water and quality of water way better than Ganga or a lot of big rivers I had seen before. Mr. Gurjar took us to places which there was no human living but they still had their projects there. There were several places where there was no access of any road but they still had their Johad built there. It was just awesome work.
Mr. Gurjar explaining a site to us-
Mr. Singh training us
Finally Mr. Singh arrived back to the office and we had two days of training with him. The first session of the first day with him was about eco system of rivers. This class was just like a blessing for me, I felt so informed after finishing the class. Second session was about Ganga and a river policy which Mr. Singh was working on. Mr. Singh was just super knowledgeable. He told us about things which are not easy to find any books or journal. He told us about the complete basin area of Ganga. He had names of all of the subsidiarity rivers of Ganga in his mind and he knew about all of them very well.
Mr. Singh and I
We had several hours of classes with him and it was always an amazing experience of learning. I was really impressed with his knowledge of rivers, his belief in the community involvement and using science and traditional knowledge of Indian society to solve the problem of Ganga. He said that the Government of India won’t be able to clean the river until there is a river policy and the government works honestly on it. He had already made a river policy by taking suggestions by thousands of people from all over India and wanted to share it with us.
Plantation
He wanted our suggestion as well. We read the whole document in front of him and had a discussion about it. The policy was really big but he was really nice answering all of the questions we raised. The policy covered almost anything anyone can ever imagine about Ganga. It was just awesome. During the training we did plantation also at the NGO office campus. The office campus was huge with a lot of trees. We did plantation together with Mr. Singh and Gurjar and planted over 300 plants. It was a really nice experience.
Mr. Singh training us:-
After attending the training at TBS for five days we all felt so informed about the ecology of rivers, especially Ganga and this will help me a lot in future. I definitely would like to work again with Mr. Singh and if possible visit TBS again for more training.
Alwar is a district in Rajasthanand I got an opportunity to visit it in July. I was kind of scared of the heat during summer time in Rajasthan and was hoping to see desert and dry climate but I was seriously surprised when I arrived there. Alwar was really green, full of hills, wild life (epically peacocks) rivers and had humid and wet climate. July is the summer time in India and Rajasthan is already too hot on Indian standard so I was really worried about the heat but honestly nothing bad happened. I went there with 14 other colleague and we all enjoyed the nature for the entire time we were there.
Having chai in a local market
We took an overnight train from Varanasi to Agra and then took a bus to Dausa. From Dausa we hired a jeep to drop us at Tarun Bharat Sangh office in Bheekampura. It took us about an hour to get to Bheekampura from Dausa which was already very unique experience. Bheekampura and surrounding was basically hilly area with greenery everywhere. The climate was hot and humid was it was okay. Things looked very much different from the part of India I am. The costume was different, food was different, climate was different… We enjoyed our first day a lot.
Rajasthani woman
We stayed in Bheekampura for three days and every day we had a tour. It was just awesome experience. Tarun Bharat Sangh had arranged two taxis with a guide for us. We were out of the office most of the time. We were taken to so many small villages situated way away from just anywhere. I went to several places where there was no road. Community had made temporary arrangements by themselves. I noticed that more people smoked hukka in Alwar than any other village I had seen in Uttar Pradesh. They said that hukka is good in treating some small health problems like cold and cough, it was strange but this is what people said.
Kids
Something else that I noticed in Rajasthan that idea of covering the face amongst women was stronger than any other place I had ever visited in whole India. I saw more women keeping their face and head covered. Men were also wearing big turbans which looked very interesting. I asked a few people about this tradition and they said that practical idea behind this tradition is that it secures you from affect of heat during the summer time. It makes sense to me because we also do the same thing in Uttar Pradesh but I was not sure if this was the reason behind women keeping their face and head covered all the time.
Covered faces
I think the reason why women were following this tradition is India has a male dominant society and Rajashtan has always been known for being very strict with the women. Anyways, I always enjoyed seeing different kind of people. We visited a Tiger Reserve called Sariska Tiger Reserve which was around 40 Kms from the place we were staying. I have always been so much concerned about decreasing number tigers in India and when I heard that we were going to Sariska, I was so happy and excited.
Typical Rajasthani face with turban
We arrived there, bought the tickets and now we were in. I was hoping to see a tiger and other wild animals but the sad thing was that I did not find any animal which is not usually found just anywhere. There were deers, jackal, chital, sambhar, nilgai and such animals. We were inside the reserve for more than eight hours and visited the Pandupol temple, waterfall and a few small villages. The temple was very nice. The temple is supposed to be the place where Hanuman met Bheem during Mahabharat era. The temple had a really unique style of Hanuman statue. Actually in whole Rajasthan they have a different kind of Hanuman staute which looks completely different than any other Hanuman staute I had seen before.
Lord Hanuman
Returning time we stopped at one other temple and met a Baba which was like eight wonder to us. This temple was situated on the footstep of a hill and was surrounded by thick jungle from every side. It was super quiet, seemed like there was just no one there. Whenever we stopped talking, we only heard sound of wind, trees, monkeys, birds and peacocks. We were so shocked to see the temple and then a baba living there alone. When we arrived there we saw him standing on the rooftop of the temple alone. We became so curious about him and the temple.
Baba on the rooftop of the temple
He was so nice to welcome us. He took us to his room where he offered us Chai and we chatted for an hour or so. He said that he left home when he was only 7 years old and since then he had been just wandering around, staying at ashrams and devoting his complete time for the God. He said that he had lived in Varanasi also for three years in 80s which made the conversation more interesting. We just talked for an hour or so and then he gave us a tour of his temple. Basically this temple was built where there was the samadhi of some famous baba.
Can you believe it is Rajashtan?
I asked the Baba if he had ever seen any tiger and he said that every year during the dry season tigers come down from the hills to drink water and he had seen them several times. I asked if they ever disturb him and he said that animals are smarter than humans in this regard. They can easily recognize who is their friend and who is their enemy. We visited the samadhi, took the taxi and went to a village which was also just no where. I could not believe how someone could live there. There was no electricity or any other modern facility, even my mobile stopped working there. I asked the guide and he said that sometimes people go out to cities like Delhi or Mumbai to work for a few months every year.
Colorful Rajasthan
Finally we came back to the Tarun Bharat Sangh office after tiring but really nice day. I feel really grateful to Tarun Bharat Sangh for organizing the trip because such kind of trip can not be organized by any travel agent and I am sure that I won’t ever get any opportunity to visit those places again until Tarun Bharat Sangh is involved again in organizing the trip. Returning time we had booked our train from a small town called Bandikui which was around 3 hours drive Bheekampura. We had a direct train from Bandikui to Varanasi. Our trip was over and we finally came back to Varanasi but I won’t forget the hospitality of Tarun Bharat Sangh, those small villages, smiling faces, the people, wild life and just anything that I experienced in Rajasthan.
