Indian Railways is the backbone of India’s transportation system, carrying over 24 million passengers daily. This figure excludes metro systems and other local trains in various Indian cities. India boasts the world’s fourth-largest railway network, operating more than 22,593 trains. It is recognized as one of the largest railway systems globally under single management. Indian Railways offers a diverse range of trains, including superfast express, express, passenger, Rajdhani, Shatabdi, and the semi-high-speed Vande Bharat. Luxury tourist options like the Maharaja Express and heritage Himalayan trains are also available.

Trains offer various seating and sleeping accommodations. Most trains include unreserved general class, non-AC sleeper, 3AC, 2AC, and 1AC classes. While Shatabdi and Vande Bharat currently lack sleeper options, the railway plans to introduce sleeper class Vande Bharat trains soon. It’s also rumored that Vande Bharat trains will replace older Shatabdi trains. Rajdhani Express connects state capitals and exclusively features air-conditioned coaches in 3AC, 2AC, and 1AC classes. Renowned for speed and luxury, Rajdhani Express is a popular choice for inter-state travel.

Shatabdi Express trains offer only chair car seating and connect major cities within shorter distances. Considered fast and luxurious, Shatabdi trains are popular among travelers. The majority of passengers, however, opt for superfast, express, and passenger trains. Indian railways underwent a significant transformation after 2014 under Prime Minister Modi’s leadership. Substantial investments were made to improve railway infrastructure. The implementation of the Clean India campaign led to enhanced sanitation at stations and within trains.

The most noticeable change since Modi came to power is the significantly improved cleanliness of railway stations. There are more comfortable amenities like better waiting areas, cafeterias, drinking water facilities, and overall sanitation. Trains also appear cleaner due to increased and frequent cleaning. A major upgrade is the introduction of vacuum pressure flush toilets in trains. Before 2014, train toilets directly emptied onto the tracks. These improvements have been widely appreciated by the public.

One other major change we’ve noticed is that the railways are shortening the number of non-AC sleeper class coaches. They are replacing these non-AC coaches with AC ones, primarily 3 AC coaches. They have introduced another AC class coach called 3 AC Economy. The 3 AC Economy coach has a capacity of 83 beds, while 3 AC coaches have a capacity of 72 beds. 2 AC coaches have a capacity of 54 beds, and 1 AC coaches offer coupes that can accommodate either 2 or 4 passengers. Non-AC sleeper coaches also have a capacity of 72 beds, and unreserved general class is open to all passengers.

There is usually a waitlist for all train classes. Tickets open four months in advance, and popular trains often sell out immediately. Availability typically dwindles to nothing about a month before departure, unless you try for a Tatkal (urgent) ticket, which opens a day in advance. Tatkal tickets are notoriously difficult to obtain, especially for AC classes, which open at 10 AM. The booking servers immediately become overloaded, and even a minute’s delay can mean losing out. After countless failed attempts, I’ve given up trying.

There are ticket agents who manage to buy tickets from the ticket counter. I’ve heard they bribe ticket counter officers to obtain them. Another major problem with Indian trains is delays. Such delays are so common that 15-20 minutes is hardly considered a delay. People often expect delays of an hour or more and plan their schedules accordingly. While trains are delayed for a day only during the dense fog of winter, there’s no doubt that punctuality has improved since 2014. However, there’s still significant room for improvement.

Indian Railways has been working to improve tracks and increase train speeds. I’ve noticed a significant change in train speeds. Before Mr. Modi took office, the average speed of most trains was around 70 kilometers per hour, but now it’s closer to 100-110. Vande Bharat, Shatabdi, and Rajdhani trains even run at 130-140 kilometers per hour. There has been considerable progress in railways over the past decade, but serious issues remain. Many major railway stations are still in poor condition, and the state of non-AC sleeper and general class coaches is so terrible it’s difficult to describe.

Waitlists for tickets are often so long that it’s very difficult to get a confirmed one. India is also building a Bullet train. The first Bullet train will connect Ahmedabad and Mumbai. Construction began in 2017 and was supposed to be operational by 2022 but was delayed due to the Covid pandemic. I’ve heard it might be operational by the end of 2025. I traveled in both non-AC sleeper and general class once last year, and I had such a horrible experience that it made me question the need for Bullet trains. A few months ago, I wanted to go to Delhi but couldn’t get a ticket from Varanasi on the train I wanted. The same train had seats available from Lucknow, so I booked a 2AC sleeper ticket from there.

I thought I’d simply buy a general class ticket from Varanasi to Lucknow and then upgrade to AC 2 there. I purchased an unreserved general class ticket. The train arrived thirty minutes late, and all non-AC sleeper and general class coaches were packed. As I tried to enter the unreserved general class compartment, the train started moving. I managed to board, but it was a huge mistake. The coach was so crowded I couldn’t even see my feet. Every seat was occupied, and people were sitting on the floor, luggage racks, and even outside the toilet.

There was no space at all to even sit on the floor. It was going to be a five-hour journey, and I had no idea how I would survive that long. Somehow, I managed to squeeze near the toilet and sit on the floor with other people. There were about ten of us crammed into one square meter. Since I was right by the toilet, I had to constantly move whenever someone needed to use it. Eventually, I had to go too, but when I opened the door, it was disgusting. Someone had thrown a plastic bottle in the toilet, it was clogged, and there was urine on the floor. It was impossible to use.

I came back to my spot on the floor, filled with regret for choosing general class. I knew conditions were bad, but I hadn’t realized how truly awful it was since my last general class journey. Despite the ordeal, these experiences can be quite eye-opening. I encountered a situation I never imagined. A family boarded at a stop; they looked like nomads without a permanent home. The family—a mother, father, and three children—was aggressive as soon as they entered. They loudly demanded space and pushed their way towards the toilet, ignoring other areas. It seemed like they already knew where they were headed.

They reached the toilet, entered together, and locked themselves in. Clearly, they saw it as their only available space. When others needed to use the toilet, the family refused to open the door. People started pounding on the door, but the family remained unresponsive and comfortable inside. The frustration grew, and people threatened to break down the door. Finally, the family opened it, appearing annoyed at the disturbance. They acted as if the toilet compartment was their private space. It’s unbelievable that passengers can take over a public toilet on a moving train.

Another bizarre encounter involved two fellow floor-sitters. One man had an open mouth ulcer from cancer, covered with a cloth. Given my immunosuppressive medication and heightened infection risk, being near him was terrifying. I couldn’t imagine his own suffering with cancer, let alone the added stress of this overcrowded, unsanitary environment. Such a journey would undoubtedly be incredibly challenging for someone battling cancer. It highlights the harsh realities faced by many due to economic constraints. Poverty often forces people into unimaginable situations.

There was another guy who wanted to go somewhere in Haryana, but the train only went as far as Delhi. He told me he had started the journey with just Rs. 500 and that the ticket checker had charged him that entire amount to issue a new ticket, leaving him with nothing. I suspected the ticket checker had taken a bribe, but the man showed me a legitimate Rs. 500 receipt for the new ticket. He explained that he would switch trains in Delhi, then take another train part of the way, and finally walk the last 40 kilometers.

I was shocked to discover he didn’t have a ticket for the next leg of his journey from Delhi, nor did he have money for a bus ticket to his final destination. His ordeal was heartbreaking. His innocence made me want to help, at least by buying him a bus ticket. As the train approached Lucknow, I grew increasingly eager to escape the general class compartment. I asked him how much a bus ticket would cost and gave him some money to ensure he wouldn’t have to walk the 40 kilometers.

The train arrived at Lucknow station thirty minutes late. I gave him some money, and he looked puzzled but accepted it gratefully. I changed to the AC 2 class, cleaned up in the washroom (AC class washrooms are usually clean), and went to my seat. That journey still haunts me. It’s heartbreaking to see the appalling condition of general class compartments in Indian trains, where ordinary people endure so much suffering. While some help is available on trains, the state of general class is so dire that it seems insufficient.

I recently had another experience traveling in non-AC class a few days ago. Usually, I book round-trip tickets before my journey, but this time I didn’t have a return ticket to Varanasi. I planned to buy a Tatkal ticket (available a day before departure) but couldn’t get one. As usual, the Indian Railways server crashed, and I couldn’t purchase a ticket. I explored other options from different cities and found a train from Gwalior to Varanasi with available seats for the next day. I booked a ticket on the Bundelkhand Express for the next day.

Gwalior is a four-hour train ride from Delhi, so I looked for a train to Gwalior that evening. All reserved seats were booked, so I decided to try unreserved class again since it was only a short journey. I arrived at Hazrat Nizamuddin railway station, bought a general ticket, and went to the platform. It was August 14th, and we had a holiday on the 15th. The 16th was Friday, and Saturday and Sunday are already officially off days. With another festival on Monday, it meant a long holiday, so many people were traveling back home. The platform was full of people waiting for the train. I thought that if the unreserved class was overcrowded, I would get on a reserved class and pay the penalty.

There were two unreserved coaches, and both became overcrowded as soon as the train arrived at the platform. People were even jumping onto the moving train to secure seats. By the time the train stopped, it was already overcrowded, so I couldn’t board. I went to the reserved non-AC class, hoping to find a spot in a corner. However, many others with general class tickets had the same idea, and the reserved coach was also packed.

It was incredibly difficult to even board the train, but somehow I managed. The train was so crowded that even those with confirmed seats were forced to share them. I managed to find a standing space and later used my backpack as a seat. Everyone said most passengers would get off at Mathura station, but the opposite happened: few got off, and more boarded. Eventually, I couldn’t even sit on my backpack and had to stand the entire time.

Not enough space even to stand

The next stop was Agra, and even more people got on. By this point, it was nearly impossible to stay in the compartment, but I had no other choice. People were sitting on the floor everywhere, and even the reserved seats were occupied by those with unreserved tickets. People trying to move were constantly stepping over others’ feet and luggage. Although the non-AC reserved coaches had open windows, it was so overcrowded that I felt suffocated the entire time.

Finally, the train arrived at Gwalior station, about 30 minutes late. These two recent experiences of traveling in non-AC class have been horrible, literally a nightmare. If there’s any other option, I wouldn’t want to travel in either unreserved or non-AC sleeper class again. It’s not just my story; everyone shares the same opinion about non-AC travel. While there have been improvements recently, many problems still need to be addressed, especially the condition of the unreserved class.

On one hand, we have numerous problems with running existing train services efficiently, while on the other, we’re investing in bullet trains. My recent experience has made me question the need for bullet trains at this point. I understand that such projects enhance a country’s image and attract foreign investment, but shouldn’t we prioritize improving existing services first? I believe focusing on making current trains better would be more appreciated by the Indian public and International community in general.

Why not try to end the waitlist in train tickets first? Why not make trains run on time first? Why not make them litter free first? Why not make the condition of general class coaches better first? Why not replace non-AC with AC coaches first? Why not try to improve the track quality first and make the trains faster? Why not arrange good pantry services available at all the trains first? Why make huge investment on Bullet trains when our other trains are in bad shape?

About 15 years ago, I met an English man who was an expert in building bullet trains. He had been involved in bullet train projects in Japan and other countries. He told me that Indian Railways had invited him to collaborate on a project in the 1970s. Forty years later, he returned to India as a tourist and wanted to see the progress of that project. He visited the Vadodara Railway Headquarters and was shocked to find that no progress had been made in the past four decades.

He said it wasn’t wise for India to build bullet trains while regular trains were in such poor condition. I agree to some extent. I want India to have modern rail infrastructure, but existing trains should be perfected first. I understand the government might be trying to shift lower-middle-class passengers from non-AC sleeper to AC coaches, but can everyone afford it? Do they even want to? And even if they do, are tickets available? Of course not!

I understand many people prefer non-AC travel due to financial constraints, and the government should address this. While Indian Railways passenger trains operate at a loss, subsidized by freight services, it’s unacceptable to neglect the conditions of non-AC coaches. There needs to be a balance between financial viability and passenger comfort.

The only solution I can think of is to replace all non-AC sleeper class coaches with 3AC Economy and all unreserved class coaches with a metro train-type coach. Every train should be air-conditioned and equipped with clean toilets. This would require additional funding, which could be recovered by charging passengers equally or slightly more for those traveling in 3AC, 2AC, or 1AC. Railway stations also need improvement, and the waitlist system for tickets should be eliminated.

With the rising middle class, many Indians now travel by airplane, but the majority still can’t afford it. India’s vast population and immense size contribute to its significant challenges. Solving even small problems requires immense effort. It often feels like there’s a lack of will to address these issues despite visible solutions. Indian bureaucracy is plagued by corruption, laziness, and a focus on personal comfort rather than public service.

Indian train journeys can be delightful if you secure a confirmed seat in AC class. I prefer train travel for overnight journeys. I wish the government would prioritize addressing the core issues affecting ordinary citizens. While I support the development of bullet trains, I believe improving existing train services is equally important. We need safer, more comfortable trains, an end to ticket waitlists, and a reduction in accidents and derailments. India has made significant strides in railway infrastructure over the past decade, and I’m optimistic about future improvements. I hope to see a world-class railway system that surpasses global standards.