Nirvana Travels lead character

Posted on June 15, 2012 by nandan

Nirvana Travels is travel show done by NDTV Good Times TV channel in India.The show looks at the spiritual face of different cities in India. The idea behind the show is to meet people in different cities and see the city through their eyes. They contacted me regarding their upcoming show about Varanasi. Actually in this show they have one lead character and a few other regular but interesting people as well. They wanted to choose me as the lead character for this show because of my tour guiding work, research and social activism. I was kind of surprised when I heard about it first, actually I had no idea why they wanted to choose me only if there are so many other tourist guides, researchers and social activists.

Anyways, I asked them about why me only and they said that there are definitely other tourist guides in the city but no one is as popular as me online because of good references. There are other researchers but they usually study only one topic and never share it whereas I have been studying many different subjects and I write about it online. And finally they said that they did not want to work with any social worker who was a very big name, they wanted to work with new people in the industry. And overall I was doing all these things alone. I had never heard anyone talking all these things about me:)

Anyways, they came to Varanasi with the host of the show named Kaisha Hastu. She had already done other episodes of this show and some other show for NDTV Good Times. We agreed on filming and places and other details. Basically they wanted to film me in my environment, where I usually meet with my friends, the shop where I usually have my tea and such things. The first day they asked me to take them to my favorite chai shop. I was feeling kind of nervous being surrounded by cameras in my own neighborhood but it was fun.

They introduced me as a very popular tourist guide and researcher from Varanasi. At first they asked me general questions about Varanasi, its culture, people, tourism… They already knew that I was very much interested in cultural and religious diversity of Varanasi so they asked me a few questions about it also. Other than this there were questions about my personal life, research, activism… To be honest I don’t really remember how many questions they asked but they asked me questions about almost everything. Other than me they need some help with interviewing other people as well.

They were very much interested in the idea of Nirvana hence wanted to interview someone who had some real knowledge about the subject. I suggested them to meet with the manager of Kashi Labh Mukti Bhawan. Mr. Shukla, the manager, is a very knowledgeable person about the subject of Moskha or Nirvana. I had already interviewed him several times. After interviewing him they showed interest in interviewing some young artist from Varanasi, preferably a tabla player because Varanasi is very famous for its Tabla players as well. I organized this with a very famous and young tabla player from Varanasi named Prashant Mishra. Finally the show was completed with a big interview with me and four-five smaller interviews with other people. I look forward for the show on air.

work with e3 Foundation, Texas

Posted on May 30, 2012 by nandan

I got to work with a non profit organization called e3 Foundation from Texas. Their project was very interesting. They were making a documentary about religion and what it means to people. It was a series of documentaries which was based in three different countries. They wanted to make one episode about Hindu religion and this episode was based only in Varanasi. I was was responsible to do research, find different people who were interested in talking about what religion and God mean to them, schedule appointment for interview and do interpretation. But they did not want just anyone, they wanted each person to be different from other so that there is diversity in the show.

It didn’t really take me much time to organize it as I already knew many interesting people. I think my interest in people helped me a lot here. There is a public call booth at Assi crossing which is owned by my friend’s uncle. I always found him different from others because whenever we were sitting next to his shop, he would usually come and stay close to us so he could hear what we were talking. Sometimes he also became part of our discussion. Only a few days before e3 contacted me, the show owner, friend’s uncle, had shown me his diary. His diary was full of poetries written by him.

These poetries were basically about his life, his religious practices, the way regular people practice religion, the world and questions about religion and God. It was really impressive. He had told me once that people who are not curious and do not question things are just like animals. Because the God has given us mind and we need to use it. His another writing which impressed was – Are we really worth getting blessings of God? I was really impressed with his writings. And when I was thinking about right people for the show, he immediately clicked in my mind.

And when I asked him if he would like to be interviewed, he was so happy and agreed on getting interviewed. I took e3 to Kashi Labh Mukti Bhawan also where we interviewed the manager about the idea of death in Hinduism. We also filmed a family who had brought their mother to die a Varanasi. We filmed evening and morning rituals as well at Mukti Bhawan. It was again very intense experience translating the manager, because he loves talking and talks too much and the atmosphere at Mukti Bhawan. Anyways, it went very well.

I introduced the director to a boat rower also who is known for his singing skills. He writes his own songs and most of them are religious. He loves singing his songs when he is rowing the boat and his voice is really beautiful. This interview was also very good and interesting. Other than this we interviewed a lady professor of Hindu religion and definitely her interview was very nice. Overall we did 10 interviews with different kind of people and did some regular touristic things like evening ceremony, morning boat, temples, rituals etc. It was nice working on this project because it was mostly about interviewing people and I got to listen a lot which is always a nice experience for me.

Another project with VPRO

Posted on February 25, 2012 by nandan

VPRO hired me again for their documentary project called From Bihar to Bangalore. This documentary project was bigger than the last one I worked with them in 2011. The host of the show Mr. Jelle Brandt Corstius wanted to show how India changes from one city to other. I was responsible for organizing their work in Varanasi. Mr. Jelle spent 4 months studying Hindi and exploring India to prepare for the documentary. I met him about 3 months before the crew arrived in Varanasi. Mr. Jelle told me that the whole world knows Varanasi but they only one classical picture of Varanasi but he wanted to show something different.

We went to a few places which is shown in all of the documentaries about Varanasi. Apart from those regular places we went to Kashi Labh Mukti Bhawan where they allow only 15 days of stay for the people to die, we met with Mr. G. D. Agarwal and the king of Doam society. They wanted to interview one of the members of National River Ganga Basin Authority also. I suggested them to interview Mr. Rajendra Singh because I was very well aware of his honest activism for environment, especially Ganga but we could not schedule an appointment with him as he was going to be busy somewhere else during the filming time.

We decided to work with Mr. B. D. Tripathi, professor at BHU, instead of Mr. Rajendra Singh. Mr. Jelle was very much interested in the king of Doam society, the people who work at the cremation ghat. Arranging an appointment with him was kind of a pain because this person was seriously commercial. The only thing he cared about was money. VPRO wanted to film Shivratri festival in Varanasi and I arranged the filming at a temple called Tilbhandeshwar with consent of the temple management committee and Shivratri organizing committee.

Everything seemed very well organized. I knew what we were going to do and when. Everything went smoothly except filming at the Tilbhandeshwar temple and interview the king of Doam society. When we arrived at the temple to start filming, it was too crowded. We got in the temple and by the time we were going to go on the rooftop to film the preparation, a policeman stopped us. He said that filming inside the temple was not allowed. I told him that I had permission but this guy just did not want to hear anything. One of the persons from the management committee also said that it was not problem for them but he still did not allow us.

VPRO understood that it was not my fault but it was crazy to see how this policeman behaved us. The king of the Doam society was also a crazy guy. He did not want to speak anything, his answers were too short and finally we decided not to work with him. We filmed a Sadhu also at the biggest Ashram in Varanasi which was very nice. The Sadhu was very cooperative and he invited us to join him at his personal Ganga ritual. VPRO just loved this footage. Everything went very well and finally we completed the filming in Varanasi and VPRO told me that it was one of the best episodes they had ever produced.

Work with Gilles Delmas

Posted on January 15, 2012 by nandan

Gilles Delmas is a documentary maker and an artist from France. I was introduced to him by a friend of mine from Varanasi. Actually Gilles was looking for an assistant to help him photographing in Varanasi. The theme of the photography was relationship between chair and death. He approached to my friend first but my friend had to no idea what Mr. Gilles was talking about so he brought him to me. Mr. Gilles explained me his project and since I had already worked with so many photographers and documentary makers, I just thought that this project would also be like any other project I had worked on.

I immediately agreed on working with Mr. Gilles but I had no idea how different this project was going to be:) A few really interesting things happened only in the first meeting. Actually Mr. Gilles was staying at Hotel Haifa and it is prohibited for me to enter in this hotel. Mr. Gilles asked me to meet him the next day in the hotel lobby and I told him that I cold not enter in the hotel. He asked me the reason behind it and I told him that hotel owner had told me once that it was their policy that they do not allow locals to enter in the hotel. Mr. Gilles did not tell me anything at that moment but later I got a call that he had already changed his hotel.

Mr. Gilles told me that he doesn’t like racism hence changed the hotel. I had never thought that somebody would even care about my personal problems this much. Anyways, it was really nice of him that he cared a lot about me and I really appreciate it. We met the next day and Mr. Gilles asked me to take him to the places where Sadhus or regular people live to die. I took him to several places and he chose one of them to work. Now he needed chairs which I did not understand. I asked him the reason behind this theme of relationship between chair and death.

He told me that he had always wanted to come to Varanasi to photograph death and once he was laying down with his closed eyes in Haridwar along the Ganga thinking about his project in Varanasi. When he opened his eyes, he saw a big chair in the sky with yellow and orange color and it gave him this idea that there was some kind of relationship between chair and death. He thought a lot about it and realized that it was true. He was trying to tell me things that I did not understand at all. He told me that even the people who come to die in Varanasi have to use a chair in their journey, maybe just by sitting on it waiting for a train.

I did not understand anything but at the same time things were becoming more and more interesting. I took him to several shops where they sell chairs but Mr. Gilles did not like them. At some places he did not like the way they were making the chair, at one place he did not like the children of the carpenter and at the same time he was asking me to take him to a right place. I did not know what was going on, it was kind of upsetting for me. I had no idea what was the right place for him. I kind of gave up at this moment and called the friend who had introduced him to me.

I asked him to take care of him as I felt like leaving the project. This friend came and we went to his place along the river side. I introduced my friends father to Mr. Gilles and told him that father also works as a carpenter but he usually makes boats. Mr. Gilles finally said that the father was the best person to make his chairs, big relief. We went to buy the wood and day was over today. I thought a lot of about working with Mr. Gilles and started talking about him with my western friends. They all told me that Mr. Gilles was not different at all, all the artists are same. They do things differently, they are very creative people and we should respect them.

When I met with Mr. Gilles the next day, I saw him with hair shaved. I asked him why he shaved his hair and he said that it was because he was going to start his project. He was wearing orange color jacket and it was also intentional. Actually most of the holy men and other people who come to die in Varanasi wear orange color dresses and since he was going to work with them, he also wanted to wear the same color dress. His devotion for the project made me feel like really artists are different. I realized that it was first time in my whole life when I was working with an artist. His devotion made me respect him and his project more than ever before.

Mr. Gilles had drawn pictures of several different kinds of chairs with different sizes. He needed a chair with really long legs, as long as four feet. Another chair with regular size, one chair one and half feet tall, one broken chair and three chairs as small as a match box. I was thrilled to see the idea of the chairs. The most interesting thing about the chairs were how they were going to look like. They needed to be in two colors- orange in front and yellow in the back. The space of the seat and back needed to be empty, wow. I was thinking that if someone sits on such kind of chair and get photographed then those empty spaces won’t be even visible but it was still very important for Mr. Gilles.

I told about this strange structure of the chair to my friends and they told me that the things which was not visible but still exist means a lot to artists. I was like, wow. I had never thought about such thing. Anyways, finally the chairs were prepared. They looked beautiful and different than any chair I had ever seen, even in my dreams. The chair with the long leg was so big that it would not fit in any taxi or auto so we had to hire a boat to carry them and then lift them to the photography place. Mr. Gilles had chosen one particular ashram called Machli Bandar Math which was situated near to the river and he wanted to photograph one particular Baba.

We arrived at the Ashram the next day with all of our chairs and started photographing. The tall chair was so big that the person could not even sit on it. We had to lift him up and help him getting on the chair, it was so funny. Mr. Gilles sometimes wanted the Baba to sit on the chair, some times just stand next to the chair, sometimes just look at the chair, sometimes walk towards the chair… many different poses. Mr. Gilles was super devoted for his work. Once he started photographing, it felt like he had lost connection from the world. Sometimes he would talk with himself and with the camera. His camera was also very different.

He had three cameras and all of them were roll cameras. One of them was very big in size. I asked him why he was not using a digital camera and he said that since his pictures are poster size, he could not print digital photographs in that big size. I did not know this before. We worked with the wooden chairs for three days and the fourth day something new arrived. Mr. Gilles brought chairs made of cloth. He had two chairs- one regular size and other one as big as a house. He wanted to stick the regular size one on the wall the spread the bigger one on the ground and just have the character look at it.

The big chair was so big that we had to go in a ground. He spread the chair and went on a roof top next to the ground and photographed it. The project was completed successfully but the last day was not happy day. Actually Mr. Gilles wanted to compensate the Baba for his time and we had agreed on a price but on the last day he started asking for ten times more money. I somehow handled the situation by paying the Baba from my own pocket. I did not pay him ten times more but a little bit more than we had agreed.

I think a lot about Mr. Gilles and his project and feel like I really learnt a lot. He was a gentleman and super professional person and I really look forward to work with him in future. Mr. Gilles want to come to Varanasi again for the documentary filming project and again I would love working with him.

tourist guides work for free?

Posted on November 19, 2011 by nandan

The Value of a Guide: A Glimpse into India’s Tourism Reality

Something strange happened to me today that made me realize the current state of tourist guides in India. A few days ago, my brother, who works as an Italian tour escort, called to tell me that one of his friends from Varanasi wanted to start a travel agency and needed my advice. The friend had seen my website and was impressed, so I eventually got a call from him. He wanted my suggestions on unique tours that would attract foreign tourists to Varanasi.

I told him about the distinctive things I show my guests, such as roadside dental clinics, “bull shops,” “Facebook Baba,” and my special walking tours. I even briefly mentioned the concept of LGBT tourism. Everything was going well, and we had a great conversation until he suddenly told me he had a group of foreign tourists coming to Varanasi and needed a guide to show them around. I was about to tell him about the official Incredible India office in Varanasi, but what he said next truly shocked me.

He told me he had heard that tourist guides in Varanasi charge a fee for their work. I was stunned. “Where is a place that they don’t charge a fee?” I asked. He confidently replied that guides in cities like Agra and Delhi work for free. I asked him why anyone would work for free, and he didn’t know, but he was so sure because he had already used the services of such guides.

I knew exactly why some guides work for free. It’s because they are more interested in taking guests to shops than to tourist sites. I told him this, and he asked if there was no such thing in Varanasi. I said I was not aware of any guides who operate that way. I explained that there is a set rate decided by the Indian government, and in fact, Varanasi is the most expensive place to hire a guide because the tourism day begins before sunrise and ends after sunset, meaning guides are often paid for what amounts to three half-days.

Despite knowing that free guides take guests to shops instead of historical sites, he still insisted on finding one. I called my brother and asked if this practice was common in Delhi and Agra. He confirmed that yes, there are such guides who work for free. Once you’re with them, they start telling all kinds of wild stories and eventually take you to a shop where you end up buying something, and they get a commission. I couldn’t believe someone would think tourist guides are a free service.

His guests will be staying at the Radisson Hotel in Varanasi, a place only wealthy tourists can afford. I wondered why, after paying so much money and traveling so far, they would choose to meet a guide who works for free and takes them shopping instead of sightseeing. My brother and many other guides tell me the same story: they are still treated as “entertainers” who tell funny stories, not as respected professionals.

The Lack of Respect for Guides

There is no professional standard for tourist guides in India, and I see this firsthand. I am proud to be a tourist guide because it is a wonderful profession. I get to meet people from all over the world; I teach them about my culture, and they teach me about theirs. I make a good living by Indian standards. We are known for being punctual in a country where delays are common. We represent our country, which is a huge and important responsibility. The Ministry of Tourism even calls us “cultural ambassadors of India.”

I believe the government of India needs to take steps to ensure tourist guides are respected. During my training, I was told the Ministry of Tourism planned to start an annual award for the best guides from different regions to encourage professionalism and interest in the profession. The government’s plans sounded great, but when I look at what has actually been done for tourism, everything seems the same.

I recently visited the Incredible India website, the most famous tourism brand in the country, and was shocked to see how outdated it was. The importance of this brand is clear; if you google “India,” “India tourism,” or “tourism in India,” the first result is the Incredible India website. However, the information there seems from the time of World War II. They are still saluting the medal winners from the Commonwealth Games that happened years ago.

The site requests that tourists use only authorized guides but provides no list of them. There are awards mentioned, but no category for “Best Tourist Guide.” I don’t know when the government will take tourism seriously. Tourism already contributes 5.90% to our GDP, and this percentage could increase dramatically with just a few small changes. I don’t know when the government will start thinking about these issues, but they really need to.

work with Richard Dawkins

Posted on August 25, 2011 by nandan

Working with Richard Dawkins: A Meaningful Experience

It was an opportunity I never expected: working personally with Richard Dawkins. BBC World and Channel 4 were collaborating on a documentary called The Meaning of Life, and Mr. Dawkins was the host. Ten days before the shoot was scheduled in Varanasi, I received a call from the director. They needed me to organize their work because a production company they had hired in Delhi had promised to manage things but had failed to do so. They found my blog and reached out to me to coordinate everything in Varanasi.

The crew

The crew was looking for people who had been discriminated against for reasons they couldn’t control. They chose two groups to feature: Dalits and Hijras. They wanted to find a Dalit man who had suffered due to his caste but had overcome the struggle to build a stable life. They also wanted to interview Hijras to hear their stories of facing discrimination because of their sexuality. My job was to research and find the right people and then schedule the interviews.

Having done this kind of research before, I knew exactly where to go. It didn’t take much effort; a few phone calls and everything was organized on my end. Two days before the crew was due to arrive, a man from the Delhi production company came to Varanasi to “check if everything was alright.” It seemed he was just there to prove that they had been working hard. He wanted to meet the people I had chosen for the documentary.

He was a nice person, but he was constantly trying to prove how experienced and knowledgeable he was. I wasn’t impressed because, first, he had taken on a responsibility he couldn’t fulfill, and second, he kept trying to impose his ideas on me and the people I had selected. I knew exactly what was needed because I was in direct contact with the show’s director. Finally, the crew arrived, and I was beyond excited to see Mr. Dawkins. It was funny because I hadn’t even heard of him before, but my Western friends were all like, “He’s one of the most famous scientists in the world—a celebrity, a star!”

I read his Wikipedia article and realized I was about to meet someone truly important. I was incredibly excited but also very nervous. It was the first time in my life I felt nervous working with a Westerner. I’ve always been more comfortable with Western colleagues and have had limited experience working under Indian bosses, which makes me a bit nervous. This was the first time in my entire professional career that I was seriously nervous.

When I first saw Mr. Dawkins, I couldn’t even bring myself to shake his hand. He was very reserved and serious, even with the crew. The director and crew would plan the shots, and he would simply follow their instructions. He would either come on camera to interview people or sit alone and observe his surroundings. He truly carried himself like a superstar.

Finally, I mustered the courage to go and say hello. It was perhaps the second or third time in my life I had ever called someone “Sir.” I had planned what I was going to say, but I was so nervous I forgot everything and ended up saying, “Sir, I read a Wikipedia article about you a few days ago, and I am very impressed with your work. I think you’ve done a really good job.” I immediately thought, “How could a person like me evaluate the work of a scientist like Mr. Dawkins? Hahahaha.” Mr. Dawkins’ response was very polite: “Yes, I also think so.“

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atheism

Not knowing what else to say, I started telling him how my Western friends were huge fans and what they had told me when I first said I was working with him. For the interview, I had chosen a Dalit boy named Mahendra from a village called Mehdiganj, about 20 kilometers from Varanasi. Mahendra works as a teacher for an NGO called Lok Samiti and is an expert on the RTI (Right to Information). Everything was set to start filming, and they needed a translator. They asked the guy from the Delhi production house to translate, but he immediately surrendered. I am 100% sure he did it because he was also too nervous.

He grew up in Delhi, attended an English-medium school, and spoke English fluently—his Indian English was much better than mine—but he still didn’t want to translate. He wanted me to do it. It was the first time in my life I said I didn’t want to translate because I was also so nervous. The crew was stuck between him and me. He was smoking like a chimney, and my heart was beating like an Indian train. The crew finally requested me to translate, and I had to agree.

I didn’t know how it would go, but I started. I listened to every word very carefully and did my best to translate. In the end, everything went well. The interview was great, and I was appreciated for my research in finding the right person and for my translation work. I was happy and proud. This feeling of happiness and pride gave me enough confidence to ask Mr. Dawkins for a picture. Fortunately, he came to me and asked to take a picture with the Varanasi crew. I was so happy to have a picture with him.

The next day, the second interview was with a group of Hijras. We arrived, everything was set, and we completed the interview. We had also organized a dance performance for them since this is part of their work—they perform traditional dances, sing traditional songs, and bless people. Hijras have a reputation for being “naughty” with their clients, tickling them, jumping on them, and sometimes even going nude in front of people. During the performance, Mr. Dawkins was sitting on a chair, watching everything as it was being filmed.

The Hijras asked me if they should “play” with Mr. Dawkins, which meant tickling him, kissing him, or asking him to dance. I asked the director, who said it “didn’t sound bad.” I gave the Hijras the signal, and two of them went up to Mr. Dawkins and started doing all the “naughty” things. I could easily see his face turn red with anger. As soon as the first performance was over, he asked the crew to take him to his taxi. I was a little concerned he was angry, but the crew said it was fine. During the second performance, the whole crew danced with the Hijras and had a lot of fun.

The work in Varanasi was finally done. I had spent hours watching and listening to a person like Mr. Dawkins, who is very controversial for his ideas on atheism and his strong stance against religion and the existence of gods. I grew up in a country that is the birthplace of three major world religions. As a Hindu, I was raised with the belief that there are 33 million gods and goddesses. I grew up in Varanasi, a city known as the cultural and religious hub of Hinduism, where religion is a serious part of life.

I have always believed that religion is like a government, a serious belief, a Windows operating system for a computer. If it’s corrupt, we need to change it or replace it with a virus-free version. I believe in the Vedas, which provide the true essence of Hinduism, and I like being a Hindu. The best things about Hinduism, in my opinion, are its openness, flexibility, and respect for everyone—and that’s how I like to be (these ideas exist in true Hinduism, not the version practiced today). However, Mr. Dawkins was very extreme in his views. I respect his ideas on the gene-centered view of evolution, the concept of the meme, and his advocacy for atheism and science, but I wondered if it was right to blame a whole religion just by focusing on its negative parts.

Mahendra

His questions to the Dalit boy were something like: “Do you think you were discriminated against in society? Do you think you were discriminated against because of your caste? Do you think this idea of casteism comes from the Hindu religion? And finally, do you admit that religion is bad?” How can someone declare a religion bad just by asking these four questions in five minutes? I wondered why he didn’t ask how the idea of casteism has changed over time, or if he was even aware of it. Maybe he was just told there’s huge discrimination based on caste and prepared a few questions based on that.

Mahendra with Mr. Dawkins

I believe the world is about change. Things have changed, are changing, and will continue to change. I would not object if Mr. Dawkins started a new religion with his own ideas, but to so extremely state that the faith of over 95% of the world’s population is bad is something I can’t respect. I respect Mr. Dawkins and his ideas, and he is still a kind of superhero to me. But I would have respected him more if he had been more open to looking for the reasons behind the changes in Hindu society and then said, “Look, these are the reasons for the discrimination against this Dalit boy, and if this is what happens, then why not become an atheist?”

Mahendra with Alison, the director of the show

I have no authority to question Mr. Dawkins’s style of working, but I personally believe he should become a little more open to other ideas that have shaped society for endless time. Nevertheless, it was a truly awesome experience to work with a superstar like Mr. Dawkins, who has brought about positive change in the world. I really wish I could work with him again.

Nandan standing with Richard Dawkins in a garden

Richard Dawkins and I

Interview with Mr. Rajendra Singh

Posted on August 12, 2011 by nandan

I had the privilege of interviewing Mr. Rajendra Singh, a renowned water conservationist often referred to as the Waterman of Rajasthan. He is one of the distinguished members of the National River Ganga Basin Authority (NRGBA), the apex body formed by the Government of India to oversee policies and programs for the rejuvenation of the Ganga. I met him during my visit to his NGO, Tarun Bharat Sangh, where I was undergoing training on the ecology of rivers, with a special focus on the Ganga.

Mr. Singh is widely celebrated for his pioneering work in reviving several rivers in Rajasthan through traditional water harvesting techniques, most notably the construction of small check dams called Johads. His grassroots approach has transformed arid regions, restored groundwater levels, and brought entire river systems back to life. Over the decades, his efforts have influenced water conservation projects across India and inspired policies on community-led river management.

During my time with him, I recorded two interviews. The first focused on his critical perspective on why the Ganga Action Plan, launched in the 1980s, turned out to be a complete failure. The second explored his thoughts on the ongoing work of the National River Ganga Basin Authority, where he emphasized the importance of genuine community involvement, scientific planning, and strong political will. It was a truly enriching experience, and I felt honored to document his insights on issues that are central to the future of India’s rivers.

Rajendra Singh talking about the complete failure of Ganga Action Plan-

2nd interview of Mr. Singh where he talks about the National River Ganga Basin Authority-

work with VPRO

Posted on March 30, 2011 by nandan

Working with VPRO – A Dutch Broadcasting Experience in Varanasi

I had the opportunity to work with VPRO, a broadcasting corporation from the Netherlands, on a travel show designed for children between the ages of eight and fourteen. My responsibility was to arrange everything for them – hotels, transportation, local assistants, and most importantly, finding the right characters for the show. They shared with me only a general idea of the kinds of characters they were looking for, and it was my job to research, approach families, and schedule interviews. A month before filming, an employee of VPRO named Barbara Smith visited me in Varanasi to prepare. Since this was a children’s show, they were specifically looking for children with unique backgrounds and stories.

When I asked why they chose Varanasi, Barbara explained that they were fascinated by its cultural diversity and believed that they could capture the essence of India just within this city. I completely agreed — Varanasi is a place where India’s traditions, diversity, and everyday life all intersect.

The Search for Characters

Finding the right characters was more challenging than I expected. Initially, I thought it would be easy, but once I started meeting children and families, I realized they were suspicious and hesitant about appearing on a foreign TV show. Still, after some effort, we managed to identify fascinating children:

A boy who practiced Malkhamb (traditional pole gymnastics)
A glamorous Bollywood-style girl from a wealthy family with dreams of becoming an actress or model
A bright girl from a poor family studying at an NGO school
A young couple, representing teenage relationships

Beyond this list, I also looked out for other interesting local characters. While walking on the ghats, I met a young snake charmer. The crew loved the idea, so he also became part of the show.

The NGO Dilemma

Barbara already knew about an NGO called Saraswati Education Center, a yoga school that claimed to run educational programs for underprivileged children. She asked me to take her there to plan filming. At first, the place looked promising, and its owner, Sumit, appeared genuine. But Barbara insisted on making a surprise visit, and what we discovered shocked us — the claims of dozens of children studying there turned out to be false. We found only four or five children, mostly playing with foreigners, not learning.

Barbara was disappointed and decided to cancel their involvement. Luckily, I had already introduced her to Dora and Attila, founders of Chance India, another NGO I was working with at the time. Their program was authentic, and Barbara quickly chose a girl from Chance India to feature in the show. The most difficult character to find was the Bollywood dancer girl, as most families refused permission for their daughters to perform on television. Fortunately, I found a wonderful girl whose supportive parents agreed to let her participate.

Filming the Show

The film crew arrived a month later. At the last moment, they decided to drop the Malkhamb boy, saying it wasn’t “traditional enough.” Instead, they wanted a child who practiced wrestling at an Akhada, which was easy to arrange at one located near Assi. I also gave the crew walking tours of Varanasi, introducing them to the city’s vibrant life — the ghats, sadhus, cows, street scenes, and everyday chaos. We filmed for five days, capturing so much material that the team said they had enough content to make two episodes instead of one. That was the best compliment I could have received, and it made me very happy.

Wrapping Up

After finishing the project, we celebrated with a farewell party at the Radisson Hotel in Varanasi. Just before leaving India, the crew received an urgent call from their producer in the Netherlands. A commercial they had filmed in Rajasthan was rejected, and they had to reshoot with a rural Indian girl immediately. They asked me for help. Luckily, I managed to arrange it on the way to the airport the next morning — a perfect last-minute solution. The show was scheduled to air in February 2012, and I couldn’t wait to see it on television. Working with VPRO was not just another assignment, but a wonderful experience that combined cultural exchange, problem-solving, and unforgettable teamwork.

Crew members and I at the party after finishing the project

work with DePauw university

Posted on January 25, 2011 by nandan

My Work with DePauw University, Indiana (USA)

I had the opportunity to work with DePauw University from Indiana, USA, when Mr. Rajai Bimbo, the Assistant Director of the Department of Civic, Global, and Professional Opportunities, contacted me regarding his students’ one-week trip to Varanasi. He reached out because of my work with the LGBT community in India and also showed interest in learning about the NGOs active in Varanasi.

Although Banaras Hindu University (BHU) was officially their host institution, the team was not satisfied with the way BHU professors and a local contact, Mr. Ramuji, were handling communication. They often failed to respond on time, and at one point Mr. Bimbo even asked me what I could offer to the students for a week-long program. This clearly showed that they had considered trusting me with the entire program. However, since BHU and Ramuji were “big names,” I eventually didn’t receive the full responsibility.

Mr. Bimbo even told me that he had requested BHU professors and Ramuji to collaborate with me so that we could jointly deliver the program, but they declined. Their response was that my work was “good, but not good enough” to be part of their official arrangement. Despite this, Mr. Bimbo made sure I was involved in some capacity. He invited me to spend time with the students, especially to talk about LGBT rights in India and activism in Varanasi.

With only a few hours to prepare, I put together a meaningful program for them. I organized a visit to Lok Samiti in Mehdiganj, arranged an interview with Mr. Nandlal Master, and guided the students through a local Indian village. They also visited a Coca-Cola–affected site where they learned about the community’s struggle against the company. At the MNREGA site, where a canal was being dug, students interacted with farmers and laborers, which they found deeply engaging.

Working with students has always been my priority, and it remains my dream to organize university-level experiential programs in my city. Unfortunately, due to local politics and monopoly in this field, I wasn’t given the larger responsibility with DePauw. The activities I offered were far more enriching than what BHU and Ramuji provided, but because of institutional politics, the students missed out on experiencing the best of what Varanasi had to offer.

Still, I take pride in the fact that both Mr. Bimbo and the students were happy with my contribution. For me, that was the biggest achievement.

Kathmandu Gay Pride 2010

Posted on August 30, 2010 by nandan

I traveled to Nepal with my friend Babu to attend the Kathmandu Gay Pride, and it was truly an unforgettable experience. We took a bus from Varanasi to Sonauli, catching the last one at 8:30 PM. It was an overnight journey, and the bus ride was quite uncomfortable. The road was terrible, and I couldn’t sleep at all. We finally arrived at the Sonauli border at 7 AM and took a pedal rickshaw to cross. I was carrying some electronics like a video camera, photo camera, and voice recorder, and I wanted to declare them at the Indian customs office.

beautiful nature

When I told Babu about declaring the electronics, he laughed and said it wasn’t necessary. However, I had experienced issues before during my first trip to Nepal in 1996. Back then, I was traveling with my family. We had a camera, which we declared at the Sonauli border and received a receipt for. Unfortunately, we lost it while in Nepal, and on our return, customs checked our baggage, found the camera, and claimed it wasn’t allowed to bring electronics from Nepal to India.

Babu at Pashupati nath temple

We were shocked when they insisted it wasn’t our camera, despite having a receipt. The customs officers were simply looking for a bribe. We ended up giving them some money to be allowed to leave. This experience stayed in my mind, which is why I didn’t want to take any chances this time. When I approached the customs office at the Sonauli border to declare my electronics, the officers laughed and said, “You’re very smart.”

Beautiful

I declared my items and got a receipt, but they again asked for a bribe for issuing it. I questioned why they were asking for a bribe now, and one officer explained it was just the system. I offered Rs. 20, but he insisted on at least Rs. 50. In the end, I gave him Rs. 40 and received my receipt. I had hoped that by declaring my electronics in advance, I could avoid any problems or corruption, but it seemed unavoidable. After obtaining the receipt, we crossed the border into Nepal.

Wooden windows

Although Nepal had been a Hindu country until a few years ago, I expected its culture to be similar to India’s. However, there was a noticeable difference right at the border: different-looking people, clothing, more working women, and different vehicles. It felt like a completely different country. The one similarity was the presence of touts trying to exploit tourists. Many approached us immediately to sell bus tickets to Kathmandu and hotel rooms.

Temple doorways

Babu warned me that these touts often lied. They claimed a bus would leave within the hour, but Babu assured me that buses typically don’t leave before 4 PM. I was skeptical until my rickshaw driver confirmed it. There are direct buses from the Sonauli border to Kathmandu, but only in the early morning or late afternoon. Luckily, Babu was with me, and I avoided the touts. We took a bus from the Sonauli border to a place called Bhairava, which was only about a 30-minute ride.

Forest

Bhairava is the largest bus station near the Sonauli border, and there are regular buses to Kathmandu. We arrived by 9 AM and learned that a bus would leave at 9:30. I noticed something peculiar: Nepal has no government bus service, so all buses are private, with no fixed fares. I wasn’t aware I was supposed to bargain for the bus fare, but Babu handled it. The counter initially quoted us Rs. 450, but we ended up paying Rs. 350.

Greenery everywhere

The bus departed at 9:30 but was stopped 15 minutes later by the army. I thought they would check everyone, but they only looked around and inspected a few bags. Surprisingly, they weren’t just searching for weapons; they were also checking for potatoes and sugar. I laughed when Babu explained that the authorities wanted to prevent smuggling these items from India, where they are cheaper. It was interesting to learn about the trade dynamics.

pashupati nath temple

Nepali buses were cramped, with little legroom. It rained continuously from Sonauli to Kathmandu, and water even came in through the windows despite being closed. I was soaked for over 12 hours on the bus. The nature in Nepal was breathtaking—clean rivers, fresh air, and lush greenery. I noticed that there seemed to be more working women in Nepal than in India. Many shops were run by women, and they appeared to be in better circumstances than their Indian counterparts.

Signboard about family violence

Nepal appeared more progressive regarding women’s rights compared to India. Women traveled alone, worked in offices, ran shops, and even drove auto rickshaws. It was refreshing to see. I was particularly struck by the number of alcohol shops run by women—something I had never encountered in India. I met a female shop owner and struck up a conversation with her.

Nepali girl

I asked her if she felt safe managing an alcohol shop alone and dealing with often-drunk male customers. She replied that running the business was no different from how any male family member would manage it. When I inquired about societal attitudes towards women in alcohol sales, she mentioned that Nepali society is quite progressive in terms of women’s rights. She had never visited India but had seen it on TV, and she didn’t seem particularly excited about it.

liberal Nepali girl

I explained to her that it’s nearly impossible to find women selling alcohol in India and that there are fewer working women overall. She was aware of the situation and pointed out that many Indian families in Nepal restrict their women from working outside the home. When I asked what Nepali people think of this, she candidly said, “Honestly, we think Indians are crazy and backward.” I was taken aback, but it’s true that, in terms of women’s rights, India has a long way to go compared to Nepal.

the most beautiful alcohol bottle I had ever seen

An alcohol bottle

The nature throughout Nepal was stunning. It was clear that the environment remains largely untouched—thick jungles, beautiful rivers, fewer industries, less traffic, and majestic mountains. I truly enjoyed the natural beauty of Nepal. I noticed only five large factories during the entire bus ride from Sonauli to Kathmandu, and two of them were Indian factories. While this means less pollution, it also means fewer jobs, which contributes to poverty.

Luxury way to travel in Nepal

Poverty in Nepal struck me deeply. Along the Sonauli-Kathmandu highway, I saw many homes and people, but what was surprising was that many seemed to be doing nothing—just sitting around and chatting. It felt like they had no work to occupy them. I encountered numerous children selling water bottles and snacks along the road. Nepal has suffered significantly from political instability in recent years, which appears to be a major cause of its poverty. The Nepalis I spoke with seemed discontent with the political situation.

Beautiful window art

Finally, we arrived in Kathmandu around 8 PM, and it was still raining. I had read about a neighborhood called Thamel, known for its hotels, and I wanted to stay there. Babu warned me that locals often give wrong directions, so he suggested asking someone at an Indian-run shop. We found a paan shop, bought a few items, and asked for directions. Fortunately, the shopkeeper was helpful, and after about a 10-minute walk and a few inquiries, we made it to Thamel.

Cremations at Pashupati Nath temple

Thamel was bustling with hotels, making it a popular spot for backpackers. We checked several hotels, but the prices were steep. Babu said we could find a room for around 500 NR, but none offered rates below 1000 INR. Eventually, we reached Annapurna Hotel, where they wanted to charge us 800 INR per night. I mentioned I was a government-approved tour guide in India, and they agreed to give me a room for 500 INR.

To be honest I did not like it at all

The hotel initially seemed nice, but we soon discovered that the pillow covers and bed sheets were used, the cable connection didn’t work, and the telephone was dead. We complained, and they promised to fix everything by the next morning, but that morning never came before we left. I wasn’t there to enjoy luxury, watch TV, or make calls from my room, so I didn’t mind too much. We went out for dinner, but most restaurants were closed by 8:30 PM. We eventually found an open restaurant and had our meal.

I had read various articles about nightlife in Nepal, including dance bars and massage centers. Some claimed it was safe, while others warned of potential dangers. Many articles described how people would spend significant money at nightclubs and face misbehavior. I also read about underage kids involved in the sex industry. Curiosity got the better of us, and we decided to visit at least one nightclub in Kathmandu.

While walking around Thamel, I noticed numerous massage parlors. As we passed one, a boy who appeared to be about 15 approached me and asked what I was looking at. I explained I was merely checking out the advertisements. He insisted that I was interested in something special. I clarified that I wasn’t looking for anything like that. He continued to follow us, offering young, beautiful girls at low prices. There were many pimps lurking around, watching tourists.

I managed to return to my hotel safely. The next day, we worked for a while, explored, and did some shopping. I missed vegetarian Indian food,

Pragyabodh

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