work with DePauw university

My Work with DePauw University, Indiana (USA)

I had the opportunity to work with DePauw University from Indiana, USA, when Mr. Rajai Bimbo, the Assistant Director of the Department of Civic, Global, and Professional Opportunities, contacted me regarding his students’ one-week trip to Varanasi. He reached out because of my work with the LGBT community in India and also showed interest in learning about the NGOs active in Varanasi.

Although Banaras Hindu University (BHU) was officially their host institution, the team was not satisfied with the way BHU professors and a local contact, Mr. Ramuji, were handling communication. They often failed to respond on time, and at one point Mr. Bimbo even asked me what I could offer to the students for a week-long program. This clearly showed that they had considered trusting me with the entire program. However, since BHU and Ramuji were “big names,” I eventually didn’t receive the full responsibility.

Mr. Bimbo even told me that he had requested BHU professors and Ramuji to collaborate with me so that we could jointly deliver the program, but they declined. Their response was that my work was “good, but not good enough” to be part of their official arrangement. Despite this, Mr. Bimbo made sure I was involved in some capacity. He invited me to spend time with the students, especially to talk about LGBT rights in India and activism in Varanasi.

With only a few hours to prepare, I put together a meaningful program for them. I organized a visit to Lok Samiti in Mehdiganj, arranged an interview with Mr. Nandlal Master, and guided the students through a local Indian village. They also visited a Coca-Cola–affected site where they learned about the community’s struggle against the company. At the MNREGA site, where a canal was being dug, students interacted with farmers and laborers, which they found deeply engaging.

Working with students has always been my priority, and it remains my dream to organize university-level experiential programs in my city. Unfortunately, due to local politics and monopoly in this field, I wasn’t given the larger responsibility with DePauw. The activities I offered were far more enriching than what BHU and Ramuji provided, but because of institutional politics, the students missed out on experiencing the best of what Varanasi had to offer.

Still, I take pride in the fact that both Mr. Bimbo and the students were happy with my contribution. For me, that was the biggest achievement.

Hotel Haifa in Varanasi

Hotel Haifa Incident

Hotel Haifa is located near Assi Ghat in Varanasi. They are recommended on several online travel forums and have a good reputation in the market, which is why they are usually full. I also used to recommend this hotel, but I was unaware of their strange business policy – they do not allow tourist guides inside. This came to light when an American university student group, staying at Hotel Haifa, invited me to meet them. We were sitting in the hotel’s restaurant, talking, when the owner, Mr. Ravi Mishra, suddenly appeared to introduce himself to the group.

After a brief conversation with them, he turned to me and asked how I had come there. I explained that the group had invited me because they wanted to talk with me. Hearing this, he became upset and told me clearly: “Listen, I want to make this clear to you – I do not allow guides and outsiders to enter my hotel.” I was shocked. He repeated that tourist guides are not allowed to meet clients inside his hotel and asked me not to come again. After speaking with me, he told the same thing to the group in front of me. They all looked at me with surprised faces and later apologized for what had happened.

This was the first time in my life that someone had insulted me so directly. I felt both shocked and guilty, and we ended the meeting immediately. Later, I spoke to a few people who had previously stayed at Hotel Haifa, and one of them told me: “The restaurant staff was eager to please, but I felt slightly intimidated by the management’s attitude. They promote their own guides, money-changing, and travel agent services, which explains their behavior with you. As an American traveling alone, I liked having one trusted person I could count on, but they seem to want to be the guest’s only resource, or push their own network of touts.”

Hearing this made things clearer. It seems the hotel does not want locals or independent guides to interact with their guests, possibly to keep control over all services and ensure the clients depend only on them. But to me, this feels unfair and deeply problematic. I could not help but compare it to the signs from British colonial times that read “Dogs and Indians not allowed.” That was the early 1900s, yet here in the 21st century, in an independent India with its own government, I experienced something that felt very similar.

Do you really think such a hotel deserves support? Personally, I will no longer recommend Hotel Haifa, and I have decided not to work with anyone who chooses to stay there

beggars in India

I worked with an anthropology student named Sophia from University of Berlin. I had already worked with her before a few years ago and it was my second time of work with her. This time she was not working for her university but for a big private publication company in Germany. She just wanted to interview different kind of people and listen to their stories. We met several different kinds of people but most striking news came out of the beggar community living in Varanasi. I had a shop few years ago near to Dashashwamedh Ghat in Varanasi and I knew that there was a group of beggars living near to Dashashwamedh Ghat so I took Sophia there.

I had already heard some crazy stories about beggars living there but had no idea how serious the condition was. They told us so many things but the worse story was about their sexual harassment by local people. We interviewed an old woman who told us that she was raped several times by a local bully who comes to them every night and rapes whoever he wants. There were several girls and all aged women living there and many of them said that this person rapes really young girls who are just 14-15 years old.

They went to the police several times but the police never entertains their complaint only because they are poor and they don’t have any connection in politics. A chai shop keeper who had a shop near to the place where this community lives also said confirmed it. When I asked him why locals don’t take any action against this person, he said that he is a big criminal and nobody can do anything, not even police. He also said that he comes almost every night, chooses any girl or woman he wants and take them away with himself. He doesn’t even take the girls at his home but he rapes just somewhere on the road.

I was shocked to hear all these things happening openly in my society. I just did not know what to do with poor beggars. They also talked about corruption in government policies for them. They said that Government of Uttar Pradesh also has a program for rehabilitation of beggars in Uttar Pradesh but there is so much corruption involved in it and beggars are not benefited by it at all. They talked about a housing program where government is providing free housing to the beggars but government officers ask for bribe in order to provide them a house which is built for them and which is supposed to be free of cost.

They said that government is asking for a lot of documents including local residential proof which sounds hilarious to me. How come a beggar can have a residential proof? They live on the road! This idea of asking for residential proof and other documents seemed really stupid to me. I was thinking about these corrupt government officers who don’t forgive even the beggars. They are begging from the beggars which means that they are bigger beggars. There is a saying in Hindi चोर के घर चोरी Chor ke ghar chori (stealing in thieves home) and now we need to start another saying- भिखमंगा से भिखमंगई Bhikhmanga se Bhikhmangai (begging from beggars).

Disco in Varanasi

New Year’s Eve at Agni Disco, Varanasi

Usually, I go out with my friends to celebrate New Year, but this year I couldn’t because my friends were not organized. I thought, why not explore something new in Varanasi? That’s when I remembered a disco called Agni, which had opened the previous year. I had only heard about it but didn’t know its exact location. I asked my friends, but they didn’t know either. Finally, I took my bike and went searching for it on the evening of the 31st. I reached a bar, asked about the disco, and fortunately, they knew the address.

When I first went there, they told me the timings – open from 12 to 4 in the afternoon and again from 8 to 11 in the evening. They asked me to return at 8 o’clock. Later, I went back with a friend around 9, only to find out that they were allowing couples only. I was really disappointed. I asked if there was any chance later in the night, and they told me to come back after an hour. So, my friend and I went to a nearby alcohol shop, had a beer, and then returned. Luckily, this time they allowed me in.

The entry fee was Rs. 1000 for couples and Rs. 700 for single men like me, while entry was free for girls. The ticket included two beers, but inside they gave only two small glasses instead of a bottle or a can. I had been to several discos and nightclubs in bigger Indian cities before, but this was my first disco experience in Varanasi – and it turned out to be really interesting.

I noticed a few differences compared to discos in big cities. Usually, discos in metros serve good-quality alcohol and have plenty of stock, but here the options were very limited. Most of the alcohol was either cheap, very common, or just lower middle-quality brands – nothing like what I’d seen elsewhere. Another big difference was the music. In Varanasi’s disco, they played only Bollywood songs. Honestly, I enjoyed it because I understand and like Bollywood more than Western music, but it surprised me since in big cities I rarely see discos playing Indian pop or Bollywood.

The crowd was also different. Discos in big cities usually have at least 100 people even on normal days, but here on New Year’s Eve there were hardly 50 people. Most were young boys, though a few girls were also there. Varanasi is a very male-dominated city, and you rarely see girls in short skirts or sleeveless clothes. But at Agni, for the first time in my life, I saw girls in short skirts, drinking, and smoking – something very rare to see in Varanasi. Boys and girls were dancing together, away from their families.

Perhaps many of them were not locals. Varanasi attracts students from all over India, many of whom live in hostels, so I think they were hostel students enjoying their freedom. It’s hard for me to imagine local parents in Varanasi allowing their daughters to go to a disco with male friends. Still, I liked seeing them together. I was also curious about women’s safety at the disco, and after spending nearly three hours there, it seemed to be safe for women as well.

Surprisingly, I even saw a few families with kids. Normally the disco closes at 11 pm, but because it was New Year’s Eve, they stayed open until 1 am. Overall, it was a very nice and memorable experience. I enjoyed it a lot and would definitely like to visit again on regular days with my friends or even family.

Happy New Year 2011!

Varanasi bomb blast

Affected Area

Once again, something happened that I never want to hear about. Varanasi has faced yet another bomb blast – this time at Dashashwamedh Ghat during the Ganga Aarti. My work brings me to this place at least 15 times a month, and though I was not there today, I am shaken and heartbroken for those who were affected. What makes it even worse is the way the tragedy is being hidden. The central government, the UP state government, and much of the media are not telling the truth about the scale of the devastation. I personally saw at least 10 ambulances filled with injured people passing through my neighborhood, yet the official count claims only 20 injured and 1 girl dead.

Dashashwamedh Ghat

Empty Ghats

The ambulances I saw were all headed to BHU hospital, but I know for a fact that at least three other hospitals are also treating victims. This means the real number of injured must be well over 100. I have no words to fully express my grief, but I can say with certainty: enough is enough. The group Indian Mujahideen, which once operated under the name SIMI (Students Islamic Movement of India), has claimed responsibility. But in my view, responsibility also lies heavily on our own government, police, and intelligence agencies. Their repeated failures are what make such tragedies possible.

What hurt me further was listening to the official responses. The Prime Minister and Sonia Gandhi simply appealed for calm, while the UP police made the obvious statement that “this was a terrorist attack”. The whole country already knows this – it doesn’t need repeating. What we need is action, not empty words.

Bomb blast place

Sad Faces

How many times will we be told to “stay calm”? How many times will our leaders fail to protect us, yet ask us to quietly endure? This cannot continue.

I know that writing a post on my blog will not stop terrorism or corruption, but I want to appeal to everyone reading this:

  • Think very carefully before casting your vote.

  • Whenever a policeman demands a bribe, refuse and expose it.

  • If you see corruption or illegal activities, document them and share them publicly.

  • Hold our leaders, police, and intelligence accountable.

We must unite – against terrorists, yes, but also against the corruption and negligence that allow terrorism to flourish in India. Today I feel both sad and angry. My city is wounded again. The ghats are empty, the faces are full of sorrow, and while leaders prepare for their VVIP visits, ordinary people suffer.

Sad faces

Sad faces

Enough is enough.

Road cleaning for VVIPs

Road cleaning for VVIPs

The whole city was closed in the protest of the bomb blast

The whole city was closed in the protest of the bomb blast

Life has no value in India

A Shocking Incident at BHU

Yesterday, I witnessed something truly inhuman and shocking at BHU. I have already had many bad experiences with BHU, but what I saw this time left me speechless. I had gone to the Institute of Medical Sciences (IMS) at BHU. After parking my bike, I noticed a group of people standing near the main gate of the IMS building. It seemed unusual, since security usually does not allow public gatherings there. Curious, I went closer and found that an injured and unconscious man—almost on the verge of death—was lying on the ground.

He had injuries on his face and, from what people were saying, he might have also suffered an epileptic attack. I overheard that someone had beaten him. At least ten people stood around, but nobody was willing to take him to the hospital. They said they had already informed the police and would wait for them to arrive. What shocked me even more was that, despite being inside a medical institute, with doctors constantly passing by, not a single doctor stopped to help him. This was happening in the premises of one of India’s best-known medical colleges, a place respected worldwide.

Eventually, the police arrived. They asked a few questions but seemed completely uninterested in helping. Two policemen sat casually on their bike, laughing and chatting, right next to this dying man. A few minutes later, one of them walked over and half-heartedly tried to wake him up. Instead of calling for medical help, they nudged him with their feet and even dragged him on the road, hoping he would somehow get up. But he couldn’t—he was in no condition to move. Finally, the police just left, doing nothing.

I couldn’t believe what I was seeing. Here was a man in urgent need of medical assistance, lying inside the premises of a premier medical college of India, yet doctors, police, and bystanders all ignored him. Eventually, two students came with a first aid box, but they were not doctors, and the man clearly needed far more than first aid. They too said they would first inform the police before helping, because they didn’t feel safe intervening without police approval. Then I learned the reason why everyone was hesitating—people said this man was a thief, caught trying to steal something from the IMS building. Maybe that was true, maybe not.

But even if he was a thief, did he not deserve basic medical treatment? A human life was at risk. It was cruel beyond words. In our country, we spend over ₹8,00,500 per day to keep Ajmal Kasab—the terrorist who killed hundreds of people at the Taj—alive in jail. Yet here, in one of our best medical institutions, a man possibly dying in front of doctors and police was denied even basic first aid, just because he was accused of being a thief. What I saw was heartbreaking and inhuman. I have no words strong enough to describe the cruelty and indifference I witnessed yesterday.

Caste system in India

Casteism in Modern India: A Personal Reflection

Casteism has always been a big issue in India. Originally, the caste system was designed as a way to organize society, based on profession rather than birth. It wasn’t meant to divide people permanently. In fact, in the past, caste was flexible — if someone changed their profession, their caste also changed. But over time, people with power altered the system for their own benefit, and now a person’s caste is decided entirely by the caste of their parents. Once you are born a Brahmin, you remain a Brahmin forever, no matter your work or life choices.

Traditionally, different castes had specific roles: Kshatriyas were warriors and rulers, Brahmins were scholars and priests, Vaishyas were traders, and Shudras worked in service professions and farming. In the earliest system, this arrangement was functional and not necessarily oppressive. But the distortion began when kings and higher-caste elites realized that if their children chose different professions, they could lose their social power. To protect their dominance, they declared that caste would be hereditary — fixed by birth. This was the beginning of the rigid, unequal caste hierarchy that continues today.

I was born a Brahmin, but my profession is completely different. By the original rules, I should not be treated as a Brahmin at all — yet society still labels me that way. Honestly, it doesn’t offend me; in fact, I sometimes enjoy the benefits of belonging to a higher caste. But when I think of those born into lower castes, I feel disturbed. Even today, many people who have transformed their lives through education or good jobs are still judged by their caste rather than their achievements.

The reality is harsh: wealth can often protect lower-caste individuals from discrimination, but poverty leaves them exposed to the worst of caste-based cruelty. For example, the former Chief Minister of Uttar Pradesh, a Dalit woman, rose to power and commanded respect from people who would never dare to mistreat her publicly. Yet at the village level, Dalits still face exclusion from public services, discrimination in schools, and social humiliation.

One group I learned about deeply is the Doam community, whose traditional role is helping with cremations. I worked with them three years ago and saw firsthand how badly they are treated. They are considered “untouchable” in society — denied access to common wells, pumps, and even schools. Nobody will accept food or water touched by them. But when I studied Hindu traditions more closely, I realized this stigma is a complete distortion. Hinduism does describe temporary ritual impurity — for example, anyone who attends a funeral becomes untouchable until they bathe. I have experienced this myself many times. But by that logic, Doms should only be untouchable while performing cremation duties — not permanently. Society has twisted this practice into something cruel and irrational.

The cruelty sometimes reaches shocking levels. On 24 September 2010, I read an article in Amar Ujala about a Dalit woman who offered a roti to a dog. The dog’s owner, a Yadav man, became furious and declared his dog “untouchable” because it had eaten food from a Dalit’s hand. A Panchayat meeting was called, and unbelievably, they ruled that the woman had to take ownership of the dog and pay a fine of ₹15,000 to the owner. How could a poor woman afford that? And how could a Panchayat — a government-recognized body with legal power — make such a decision in the first place?

Even worse, when the woman went to file a complaint at the police station, the officers refused to register it and instead scolded her for feeding the dog. She went to the DIG and again her complaint was ignored. Only when she approached the SC/ST DSP office was the case registered — and I am almost certain no real action will be taken. At best, they might hush it up because the media got involved.

Incidents like this shake me. Are we really living in the 21st century India we are so proud of? Is this the same India we call the world’s fastest-growing economy, a rising superpower? Is this the same land of Lord Rama, who lovingly ate food offered by Sabari, a woman from an “untouchable” caste, or bowed to a boatman from a so-called lower community?

Sometimes, it feels like we are stuck in two worlds — one that dreams of becoming a global power, and another that refuses to let go of ancient prejudices.

Times of India also reported this news.

Scanned article of Amar Ujala Hindi newspaper. 24/09/10

Parrots

My Parrots

A few days ago, my family brought home a parrot. But when I first saw him, I was genuinely upset—I don’t like to see birds in cages. Birds are meant to fly free in the sky, not stay trapped inside a small cage. I decided to release him, but when I took him up to the rooftop, I realized he was badly injured and unable to fly. He tried very hard, but he could barely walk. He hid himself behind a plant on the roof and refused to come out. My guest, Attila, also saw him and explained that the parrot’s wings had been clipped, and he needed more time to recover.

sports inside the cage


Sports Inside the Cage

We decided to keep the parrot for a few weeks, feed him well, and let him practice flying. Attila gave him one of his rooms, where the parrot lived freely. Attila also asked me if there was any bird doctor or parrot expert in Varanasi. I searched but found none. Finally, Attila contacted an expert in Hungary and arranged an online video consultation. We showed the parrot to the expert, who gave us valuable guidance.


They Love Having a Partner

The consultation opened our eyes. We were shocked to learn that the parrot wasn’t six months old, as we had assumed, but at least three years old. The expert confirmed that he was male and had been injured by wing clipping. If the clipping had not been done too harshly, there was still hope for his wings to regrow. I was happy to hear this, though still unsure whether the clipping had been done forcefully or not.


Their Bedroom

Attila kept in regular contact with the expert, who shared many important things about parrots that most people in India—including us—didn’t know. That’s why I decided to write this post: so others can also benefit from this knowledge. Parrots are deeply loved in India, but sadly, most people don’t know how to care for them properly. Many parrots die young because of harmful practices. While a parrot’s natural lifespan is 25–30 years, most in India survive only a few.

Here are some key things I learned about parrot care:


1. Cage Size

Never keep parrots in a small cage. They are wild birds, meant to live in nature. A cramped cage harms both their mental and physical health. Always buy the biggest cage you can afford and fit at home. My parrot’s cage is 3 feet deep, 3 feet tall, and 3 feet wide.

2. Cage Material

Avoid painted cages. Parrots climb using their beaks, and paint contains harmful chemicals if ingested.

3. Play and Activities

Add sticks, branches, and swings inside the cage. Parrots love to play. (Of course, they don’t play cricket or football! 😊)

4. Signs of Boredom

If your parrot is pacing in circles all the time, it means he is unhappy and bored. This can severely harm his mental and physical health.

5. Food

Never feed cooked food to parrots. They are used to raw fruits, vegetables, and grains. This is the healthiest diet for them.

6. Chilis

Never feed chilies. Many Indians think parrots like them, but parrots cannot taste spiciness. If you give them only chilies, they will eat them out of hunger, but it damages their health.

7. Sand Bowl

Keep a small bowl of clean sand in the cage. Parrots eat a little sand sometimes to get minerals that help them digest food.

8. Free Flying Time

Allow your parrot to fly freely inside your house once a week for a few hours. This exercise keeps them active and happy.

9. Safe Corner

Cover one corner of the cage with cloth or cardboard. Parrots feel secure under such shade, using it as their “bedroom.”

10. A Life Partner

If you plan to keep a parrot for a long time, bring him a partner. Parrots are the second-smartest wild creatures on earth. They need companionship and suffer if left lonely and bored.


Final Thoughts

I don’t believe in taking away anyone’s freedom. But if you choose to keep a parrot as a pet, please follow these guidelines. If you do, your parrot will live a happy and healthy life—and you will also enjoy seeing him play and bond with you. I’ll keep updating this post whenever I learn something new. If you have any questions about parrots, feel free to write to me. I’ll do my best to find the right answer for you.

Thanks!

their bedroom

Coca-Cola Varanasi

I worked with a journalist named Bart Spellers from the Netherlands, who was writing an article about the Coca-Cola controversy in India. He wanted to visit the disputed Coke sites across the country, including Mehdiganj near Varanasi. I assisted him in Varanasi as his local guide and translator. I was also eager for an opportunity to visit Mehdiganj again and speak directly with the people affected by Coca-Cola’s presence, so I was glad to take this job. I accompanied Bart to Mehdiganj and arranged interviews with Nandlal Master, a few plant employees, the union leader, several women, and local farmers.

Bart wasn’t interested in conducting too many interviews—he preferred speaking to a smaller group of the right people, since he had limited time in Varanasi. I was honestly surprised to learn how little time he had allocated for this work. Given that his article was on such a controversial subject, I felt he should have spent more time in Benares to gain a deeper understanding. Still, I think he did a good job overall, because he focused on meaningful conversations with key voices.

Although I was already familiar with the issue, I was still taken aback when I spoke with the people of Mehdiganj. I had hoped the situation might have improved over the past few years, but I quickly realized it was just as bad as when I first visited four years ago. The anger against Coca-Cola and the government was still intense. Residents told us that Coca-Cola was directly responsible for the depletion of groundwater in the area, while the government continued to turn a blind eye.

They said the situation had been deteriorating year by year. Last year, rainfall was below average, yet Coca-Cola’s market share in India had grown—naturally putting even more pressure on already scarce groundwater. Nandlal Master explained that a committee formed by the Prime Minister’s Office had completed a study of the issue and submitted its report, but the findings had not been made public. This seemed strange to me.

Why not release the report if the study is already finished? According to Nandlal, he had filed an RTI request to obtain a copy. The concerned department replied that the district magistrate had been instructed to provide him with the report. That is fine, but it still raises questions: why hide it in the first place? Why wasn’t the media informed? This silence from both the government and Coca-Cola only adds to the suspicion surrounding the issue.

For now, nothing has changed. People continue to struggle, and we are left with unanswered questions. Hopefully, one day, transparency and accountability will prevail—but when, no one can say.

Finally, Bart’s article was published here:
Coca-Cola zuigt de grond leeg

corruption in Indian police

I completed my tour guide training in December, and my license was printed in January. Soon after, the Ministry of Tourism office in Delhi asked me to submit a police verification certificate from my local police station. This certificate is supposed to confirm that there are no legal cases against me. The Ministry even provided a standard form, and I was told I simply had to get it stamped at my local police station. When I went there with the form, the officer refused to stamp it. Instead, he told me to go to the DIG office and apply for a character certificate.

By mistake, I went to a different police office. I explained my situation to an officer there, but after learning I was a tour guide, he mocked me, saying: “Oh, so your job is to fool tourists and exploit them.” I was furious but held my calm. After a few more questions, he finally directed me to the correct DIG office. The DIG office was in terrible condition—dark, dusty, and neglected. The officer responsible gave me a form, which I filled out and submitted with my documents. I had been warned by my local police station that I would need to “take care” of him, so I handed over ₹100 as a bribe. He told me to follow up with my local police station in two days.

Back at my local station, they confirmed my application had arrived but demanded a domicile certificate from the court—something that would take over 15 days. I had already provided my passport, which was proof enough. Thankfully, an advocate present at the time intervened, insisting that a passport was equivalent to a domicile certificate. Only then did the officer reluctantly accept my documents. Even then, he said they would send someone to verify my residence in a week. I understood what he really meant.

When I asked if I was supposed to “give something,” he bluntly said: “Such work doesn’t happen without money.” My friends had told me ₹500 was enough, so I offered that. But the officer said there were five or six people to share the money with, and it wasn’t enough. We finally settled on ₹700. After taking the money, he gave me an unexpected “lesson.” He explained how to bribe properly: always look around to see who is in the office, offer money when there aren’t many people, and never mention a bribe to another officer. He even warned me never to admit I had bribed his colleague at the DIG office. After this “training,” he promised my documents would be forwarded the same evening.

From there, my file went to the LIU (Local Intelligence Unit). At their office, the same cycle began. They said they would verify my residence but then hinted that a payment would speed things up. One officer casually asked for ₹500, saying that if I paid, nobody would need to visit my home and my file would move forward the same day. I paid. Something absurd happened while I was there: I received a call about my guest house business. The officer overheard and asked if I had a restaurant. When I said no, he looked disappointed and said he would have liked to come for a meal—especially if there was “hot chicken with whiskey.” I was shocked at how openly he said this.

From LIU, my papers went to the CO office (a regional police office). There, an officer told me: “We know your daytime character, but we don’t know about your nighttime character—how many women or prostitutes you sleep with, or how many bars you visit at night.” He repeated this in front of other officers, and they all laughed. I was stunned by the humiliation. Finally, I asked how much money he wanted. He said, “Give anything.” I paid ₹200, and suddenly there was no need to check my “nighttime character” anymore. My file was forwarded to the SP (Superintendent of Police) office.

At the SP office, I had to wait an hour before being presented to the SP himself. He looked at me briefly, asked why I needed the certificate, and signed the papers. That was it. His PA later asked me to come back if I wanted to “make sure things moved quickly.” I returned a few days later, and luckily my documents had already been forwarded to the DIG office. Finally, back at the DIG office, I was told that another senior officer still needed to sign my papers. I waited for three hours in the heat until that officer finally arrived. The DIG officer then took my documents to him, got them signed, and finally issued me the character certificate.

The certificate itself was laughably unimpressive—a small piece of paper stating that no legal cases were registered against me. They hadn’t even updated the forms for 2010; it was printed as 2009 and corrected by hand with a pen. In total, I had spent nearly a month of running from office to office—DIG → Local Police → DIG → LIU → CO → SP → DIG again—and paid around ₹1,700 in bribes just to get this single piece of paper. What hurts most is not the time or the money, but the way I was treated. I was mocked for being a tour guide, accused of sleeping with prostitutes, and humiliated by people who were supposed to serve the public.

In the end, I got my police verification certificate, submitted it to the Ministry of Tourism in Delhi, and finally received my license. But every time I look at that piece of paper, I can’t help but feel that my character certificate was issued by the most characterless people I have ever met.