Tag Archives: India

Terrorist attack on Mumbai

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Mumbai was attacked by terrorists on November 26th. Nearly 175 people were killed, and over 350 were injured. Terrorism has been affecting India for decades, yet the government continues to issue the same unconvincing statements without taking substantial action to address it. In such a critical situation, it would have been ideal for all political parties to unite, but unfortunately, the two major parties—Congress and BJP—remained at odds. There is widespread criticism of both the government and the police. Media outlets, the Indian intelligence agency, and the FBI have indicated that the terrorists were trained in Pakistan.

Fire at the Taj Hotel, Mumbai

The police have gathered significant evidence suggesting Pakistan’s involvement in the attack, but the Pakistani government refuses to acknowledge it. India provided Pakistan with a list of twenty terrorists, requesting their extradition, but Pakistan demanded proof of their involvement before considering any action. The terrorists India has requested are internationally recognized as terrorists, yet Pakistan insists on further evidence. Dawood Ibrahim, who facilitated the terrorists’ sea route to Mumbai, is already listed as a most-wanted terrorist by the US government, but Pakistan still seeks more proof. Despite widespread calls for action from the Indian public, it seems unlikely that meaningful measures will be taken.

Ajmal Kasab, one of the terrorists

Following the Mumbai attacks, India received strong support from the international community. Both the US and Israeli governments have pledged their assistance in the fight against terrorism. However, while our government eagerly seeks international help for nuclear projects that could lead to environmental and safety risks, it appears less interested in leveraging international support to combat terrorism. I was particularly struck by an Israeli politician’s interview where he suggested that India should first address its own issues before expecting international assistance. I agree with this perspective.

An injured person at a hospital

It is crucial for us to take proactive measures ourselves rather than waiting for others to intervene. After each terrorist attack, politicians issue statements that ultimately lead nowhere. Both the Indian government and the international community often fall short in providing effective responses. The media also expressed frustration over repeatedly covering terrorist attacks. They criticized the constant exposure to violence and the need to report on it. Despite their efforts to capture and report on the attacks, media outlets often found themselves ahead of the police in terms of information.

CST Railway station after attack

The media’s coverage, including photos and videos of the terrorists, contrasted sharply with the police’s repeated claims of being unable to locate them. During one interview, a terrorist called into a news channel with demands, including the release of imprisoned terrorists and the declaration of Hyderabad as a Muslim state. Despite his claims of being from Hyderabad, his distinct Kashmiri accent revealed his actual origin. Eventually, it was confirmed that the terrorists were from Karachi, Pakistan. One of the terrorists, when asked about their food needs, dismissed the question, stating that they would be welcomed into heaven with plentiful food.

Fire coming out of Oberio Hotel window

When informed that the NSG commandos were closing in, he replied that the world was watching and that dying would lead him to heaven and the blessings of Allah. The terrorists justified their attack by alleging that Hindus mistreat Muslims, citing the demolition of the Babri Mosque as an example. However, this was an isolated incident, and many temples have been destroyed in Pakistan as well. Their claims do not reflect the broader reality in India, where such incidents are rare. When discussing Kashmir, the terrorists claimed that its people want to join Pakistan.

 

However, during my time in Kashmir, every person I spoke to expressed a desire to remain under Indian control. Kashmir’s ongoing poverty is largely due to terrorism, and if the terrorists genuinely cared about the Kashmiri people, they would cease their violence, as India offers better opportunities than Pakistan. Recent sentiments among my friends suggest that if Kashmir is the source of these problems, some would even support giving it to Pakistan to resolve the issue. I understand this perspective, given the persistent violence affecting all parts of India. If the Indian government were to consider this option, I would support it, recognizing that the government has struggled to solve the Kashmir issue effectively.

If those advocating for Kashmiri Muslims genuinely cared about their welfare, they would also need to address the conditions of Muslims in other Indian states. Their demands for Kashmir might eventually extend to the whole country. Instead, if they want Kashmir, they should also accept all Muslims from India and resettle them elsewhere. This, however, is unrealistic because their real aim is not to improve the lives of Muslims but to disrupt India’s progress and economy. The Mumbai attacks targeted landmarks like the Taj and Oberoi hotels to damage India’s tourism and economic sectors. While not all Muslims are involved in terrorism, these attacks taint their image and intentions.

The public response to the attacks was powerful. People across India protested, with a massive candlelight march in Mumbai. Many believe that the government, rather than the terrorists, should be held accountable for the security lapses that allowed the attacks to occur. The ease with which the terrorists smuggled weapons from Karachi suggests possible collusion with local authorities. Mumbai demands a change in the political system, and while some advocate for more educated leaders, I believe that honesty is more critical. Education alone cannot solve corruption; it must be coupled with integrity. Despite young Indians’ rejection of bribery, widespread corruption in government and law enforcement undermines this ideal.

Candle light procession

Guests at the Taj Hotel during the attacks praised the staff for their efforts in keeping them informed and safe. In contrast, government agencies failed to deliver. The private sector performed admirably under the circumstances. Instead of solely blaming Pakistan or terrorist organizations, we need to improve our internal systems. In my view, the primary failures were within the Indian government and its security forces.

Hotel Taj before attacks

Brain drain in India

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The title of this post is “Upside Down” because it reflects how quality is often disregarded while mediocrity is upheld by both our people and our government. First, I want to talk about my brother, who is an Italian interpreter working for a major travel agency in India. Based in Delhi, he has been interpreting and escorting Italian tourists and researchers for the past two years. Though he doesn’t have an official tour guide license, he possesses extensive knowledge and experience. Many Italian travel agencies recommend him for their groups.

He started with a small group of just two people and has since progressed to leading groups of up to sixty. Despite his success, he must hire a government-authorized tour guide in each city he visits with his clients, as non-licensed individuals are not allowed to work independently. These guides are supposed to be passive, merely providing protection. However, many government-authorized guides resent him because he handles large groups, while they are stuck with smaller ones. Last week, at Jama Masjid in Delhi, licensed guides stopped him at the entrance.

They demanded to see his license, which he didn’t have, even though he was accompanied by a licensed guide. When asked if this guide spoke Italian, the answer was no, as he was an English-speaking guide. Despite the fact that all licensed guides hold the same credentials and are not required to speak specific languages, the government guides insisted on an Italian-speaking guide for my brother’s group, seemingly to obstruct him. At the same time, another group from my brother’s agency arrived with an Italian-speaking guide, but he was unable to work due to the same restrictions.

This pattern repeated in Rajasthan, where he faced similar issues and had to find an Italian-speaking government-authorized guide. Frustrated, my brother has decided to stop working in this field for now. He plans to continue with a few prearranged groups but is considering leaving the profession entirely. He is now transitioning to operations, a field he has no prior experience in. He feels compelled to learn something new, as government guides may continue to obstruct his work in the future. Although I’m confident in his ability to find another job due to his intelligence, I am concerned about the state of the tourism industry.

It’s disheartening to see a knowledgeable and experienced professional sidelined while outdated and less competent individuals are given support. This situation is truly “Upside Down.” Another story involves a relative of mine who is twenty-four years old and has always aspired to a life of crime rather than education. Despite being arrested multiple times, his father, who works at Sampurnanand Sanskrit university in Varanasi, managed to secure 10th and 12th grade certificates for him through bribery. He also obtained a graduation degree for his son from his own university, all without the son ever attending school.

The father then enrolled him in a B.Ed. course at a university in Gujarat, again through bribery, bypassing the admission tests. The son continues his criminal activities while his academic record remains intact. The father believes he can secure a government teaching job for his son through further bribery. Last year, I saw a newspaper advertisement for a peon position at the Benares municipality. The job required only an 8th-grade certificate and knowledge of bicycle riding. However, many candidates with Master’s and Ph.D. degrees applied for the position, illustrating the scarcity of jobs for highly educated individuals. Ultimately, the municipality hired these highly educated candidates as peons.

These overqualified individuals will now ride bicycles and monitor illegal construction sites, despite their extensive education. Their qualifications have not translated into the jobs they expected, and I suspect they will resort to bribery to supplement their meager salaries. Thus, a man who never attended school will become a teacher, while those with advanced degrees end up in lowly positions. It’s ironic to think about what the unqualified relative might teach—perhaps lessons in corruption or violence—while highly educated individuals are relegated to menial tasks. This situation epitomizes the concept of being “Upside Down.”

Corrupt Policing in India

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I witnessed something truly bizarre recently, which might be considered quite unusual even for an Indian. While I was sitting in an auto rickshaw, the driver was pulled over by a policeman who then sat next to me. Typically, police officers don’t pay for transportation, whether it’s an auto, bus, or train. After a few minutes of driving, another individual tried to stop our auto, but the driver refused. He explained that this person was also an auto rickshaw driver and was looking for a free ride. The other driver was furious and began shouting loudly.

We encountered this irate driver again near the railway station. He had arrived ahead of us, parked his auto, and was waiting for us. This time, our driver stopped, and the angry driver approached, grabbing the policeman by the collar and hurling abuses at him. I, along with the others in the auto, was shocked to see an auto rickshaw driver berating a policeman so publicly. The second driver claimed that the policeman had tried to ride in his auto without paying, and when he refused due to his auto being full, the policeman had slapped him.

It seemed the policeman had come to our auto after this incident. The driver continued to yell at the policeman, demanding to know why he was slapped, while the policeman merely replied that he would deal with him later and threatened to arrest him. The driver then accused the policeman of routinely sitting in his auto without paying. He boldly said, “Do I give you Rs. 10 every time I drive to the railway station to get abused?” He revealed that police officers would charge him Rs. 10 each time he drove to the railway station, a practice that he had endured for a long time. The policeman, caught off guard by this revelation, fell silent.

The driver’s response was impressive. Another rickshaw driver shared that police officers have set rates for different routes, with drivers in the downtown area paying Rs. 60. Trucks and tractors are banned from entering the city center after 8 a.m., but they frequently do so by paying bribes to the police, who stop them at every intersection but only for show. As I watched the altercation unfold, I was quite entertained by the driver’s defiance. However, to my surprise, a few other bystanders started siding with the policeman.

Despite widespread knowledge of police corruption and harassment, these people began supporting the officer. The policeman seemed emboldened by their support and became more assertive. The crowd, now favoring the policeman, urged the driver to move and let the policeman go. Eventually, the auto rickshaw driver relented, and the policeman, now with the support of a crowd of over fifty people, was let go. As the station approached, the policeman got out of the auto without paying the fare, just as he had done before.

It was striking to witness such shameless behavior. The driver will likely face repercussions for his actions, but his bold response to the policeman was remarkable. It’s a stark reminder of the kind of bravery we need to tackle the most dangerous kind of corruption in India—often embodied by those in positions of authority like the police.

Meeting advocate for tour guide lawsuit

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I went to Delhi on the 9th to be involved in the case against the Ministry of Tourism for failing to start the tour guide training program in 2008. The training was supposed to commence on October 6th but was delayed due to a lawsuit filed by the Guide Association of Jaipur, which challenged the government’s plan for organizing the training differently from their own. My arrival in Delhi was delayed by three hours due to the train being late, and I was only able to meet with the advocate because he was busy with another client.

I had planned to get my laptop and camera serviced and to take photos of the plastic waste around Delhi, but the train delay thwarted these plans. Upon reaching Delhi around noon, instead of the planned 9 a.m., I went to the High Court to meet the advocate. He was occupied with a significant matter and I had to wait in his office for over two hours. During this time, I overheard that he was dealing with a case involving the Deputy Commissioner of Police (DCP) concerning extra income beyond his official salary.

It seemed the Central Bureau of Investigation (CBI) was also involved, indicating the DCP’s significant corruption. DCPs typically earn around twenty thousand rupees in salary, but they often possess expensive cars, bungalows, and other luxuries. If those at the top are corrupt, it’s likely that those beneath them are as well, since bribes generally flow through the lower ranks before reaching the higher-ups. When I finally met the advocate, I was surprised to find that a young High Court advocate, probably in his 30s or 40s, was struggling with basic computer tasks.

He took ten to fifteen minutes just to type my name and address and printed the wrong documents multiple times. Despite my offer to type the information myself, I chose to watch him navigate the computer issues. Eventually, after an hour of watching him struggle, my paperwork was completed. He asked me to call him on the 22nd to discuss the court’s judgment. His fee was Rs. 3,000, which was Rs. 1,000 more than the Rs. 2,000 he charged last time for a similar case. Despite the extra cost, it seemed reasonable if it meant securing the permit. He promised to appeal to the court to issue a license valid until the training program begins.

Previously, the permit was only valid for one month, requiring frequent trips to Delhi for renewals. I hope this time will be different. After leaving the High Court, I walked to Connaught Place and spent some time observing the modern people of India. It struck me that there is a growing issue with obesity, likely influenced by western fast food and soft drinks, despite the higher literacy rates in big cities compared to smaller ones. I saw many well-dressed people in luxury cars throwing trash out of their windows, which highlights the need for significant changes in our education system.

I had planned to photograph the plastic waste near the railway tracks but couldn’t due to the foggy weather. I had already taken a few photos earlier in the morning. Although the trip wasn’t entirely successful, I don’t regret going to Delhi, especially since I will likely obtain the license.

Effect of inflation on celebration of Diwali

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Inflation is severely impacting India these days. Everything is at least twice as expensive as it used to be. Diwali was yesterday, but it didn’t feel like the Diwali of five or six years ago. Typically, people buy lots of crackers, new clothes, and bring something new into their homes, but this year, it was quite different. It seemed like most people just stayed at home, cooked food, and decorated their homes. Very few people set off fireworks. While it’s beneficial for the environment to have fewer crackers, something still felt missing.

Many people avoided buying crackers this year because of the high prices. Normally, the chemicals used to make crackers are imported from China, where they are relatively cheap. However, this year, China used most of these chemicals for the Olympics, leading to delays in supply to India. As a result, Indian factories had to source the chemicals locally, driving up the cost significantly. Consequently, crackers became at least twice as expensive.

The primary reason behind the reduced use of crackers is the overall rise in living costs in India. People are struggling financially and are prioritizing their essential needs over celebrations. For instance, I bought tomatoes for Rs. 50 per kilo, which is unprecedentedly high. Uncle Udo mentioned that tomatoes cost Rs. 70-80 per kilo in Germany, so while the prices are somewhat comparable, the income disparity between the two countries is enormous.

I understand that agricultural products tend to be more expensive in developed countries, but the situation here is still troubling. I spoke to many people about their Diwali celebrations, and most of them said it was lackluster due to inflation. If this trend continues, many middle-class families could fall into poverty again.

Why do people travel?

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In the past month, I met six Couchsurfing members, and I was surprised to find that four of them seemed unclear about the purpose of their travels. They spent most of their time sleeping and relaxing in their guesthouse rooms. Among them were two Germans and two Americans. The German visitors stayed in Benares for four days but didn’t explore much. They missed out on key experiences like Aarti and walks along the ghats, and only briefly watched a funeral without showing much interest in Aarti or Sarnath.

The American travelers were students. One of them was studying Urdu at an institute in Lucknow for a research project on Hindu-Muslim tensions. I was eager to learn more about her research, but unfortunately, I had to leave for Gwalior the day I met her. The other American was learning Hindi with Virendra Singh and had been living in Varanasi for a month. The Urdu student knew about Aarti but was unaware of Sarnath, while the Hindi student knew about Sarnath but hadn’t heard of Aarti. He had never even visited Godaulia, the downtown area of Benares. I’m unsure how he spent his time over the past month.

After finally seeing Aarti, he remarked that it was possibly the most impressive part of Benares for him. Natasha, the Urdu student, also enjoyed Aarti and decided to visit Sarnath the following day. Swami Vivekananda once said that if you have free time, traveling is a great way to utilize it because it allows you to learn about different cultures, engage with people, and make the world a better place. I believe that travel should be about learning and experiencing new things, but the individuals I met seemed to be traveling merely because they had extra time and money, or perhaps to boast about their travels. They could have gained similar knowledge and insights by spending time online in their own countries. I’m still puzzled about their real purpose for traveling.

Major Terrorist Attacks in India

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India has experienced a series of major bomb blasts over the years, often with devastating consequences. The news channel NDTV 24×7 categorizes these as major incidents, reflecting the scale of the problem. The following are notable examples:

Recently, a suspect in the Jaipur bomb blasts, a Muslim man who teaches at a madarsa in Varanasi, was arrested. This led to significant unrest, with thousands of Muslims protesting and blocking traffic, demanding his release. The situation escalated when the head of a prominent mosque in Benares intervened, promising to secure his release by a specific deadline. Despite police resistance, the suspect was eventually released on bail after extensive protests, including the involvement of local political leaders. This situation underscores the challenges faced by law enforcement and the delicate balance required in handling communal tensions and terrorism-related issues.

The difficulty in prosecuting suspects and managing public protests reflects the broader struggles in combating terrorism while maintaining social harmony.

Research for CBC Documentary

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Nandlal Master contacted me seeking information about Doams (people working at cremation sites) in Varanasi. He mentioned that his friend, currently in Varanasi, was interested in making a documentary about the lives of Doams. Since I live near the Ghats and have many friends along them, I could easily gather information about Doams. We met me at Assi Ghat, and we started checking hotels nearby to find his friend, who was staying somewhere in the vicinity. After visiting over ten hotels near Assi, we finally found his friend at a hotel close to the ghat.

When we met, his friend explained that he was a freelance journalist who had previously worked for the BBC but had left a few years ago. Currently, he was working on a CBC documentary titled *Myths and Might*. His role involved finding suitable subjects, scheduling interviews, and obtaining legal permissions. Since he was new to Varanasi, he needed my help to locate the right characters for his documentary. He was specifically looking for a young Doam whose father still worked at a cremation site, and who either attended computer classes or had a computer-related job. The goal was to highlight how Indian society was evolving.

I took him to Manikarnika Ghat, a major cremation site, where I knew a few people. We managed to meet over ten individuals, all eager to participate. We also met some people with wood shops at the site who asked us to return the next day. I consulted with some other friends who lived near Manikarnika Ghat about Doams, and was surprised to learn that Doams still had a king. They mentioned that nothing could be done without his permission. As it was getting dark, we decided to head home and continue our research the next day.

The following morning, we returned to Manikarnika Ghat. We spoke with many more people and asked if their children attended school. It was shocking to find that none of the people we spoke to had children in school. After talking to over 15 individuals, we decided to visit Harishchandra Ghat, another cremation site, where we spoke with many more people. We eventually met a 55-year-old man working at the electric burner at Harishchandra Ghat. His son, Raja Babu, worked for Reliance Money. We visited their home, met the family, and discussed CBC’s project with them. They agreed to participate in the documentary.

Raja Babu had an LLB degree from Banaras Hindu University and worked as an Area Manager for Reliance Money. His story was exactly what we were looking for. They explained that after Raja Babu completed fifth grade, no school would admit him due to the social stigma against Doams. Despite his father’s meager earnings as a rickshaw driver, he wanted his children to be educated. When no school would accept Raja Babu, he continued his studies independently. Eventually, Raja Babu began working as a helper at a doctor’s clinic, where he received training and financial support.

When a wealthy and respected person from Varanasi passed away and his family needed to arrange the cremation, Raja Babu’s uncle, who was working at Harishchandra Ghat, requested that Raja Babu be admitted to school instead of asking for money. The family agreed, and Raja Babu was admitted to Bengali Tola Inter College. Despite facing discrimination, he completed his 12th grade and later pursued a BA, MA, and LLB from BHU. After working for an American NGO called Cash for India, he joined Reliance Money. Raja Babu’s journey was compelling, and we decided to feature him in the documentary.

The next day, we visited the Doam Raja, the king of the Doam community. His home was unconventional—food was cooked using the wood left from cremations, and the house had a peculiar smell. He had a large family and several animals, and he was notably intoxicated when we arrived. Despite the challenging conditions, he agreed to grant permission for filming at Manikarnika and Harishchandra Ghats. On his roof, we saw two tiger statues, which were part of a local legend. It was said that the Doam Raja and the Maharaja of Benares were never friends. The Doam Raja had a tiger statue erected facing the Maharaja’s palace, which displeased the Maharaja.

The case ended with a court ruling requiring the Doam Raja to either remove the statue or build another one facing the opposite direction. The Doam Raja chose to erect a second statue facing away from the first one. With all the necessary permissions and characters in place, the CBC team was ready to proceed with their documentary project.

History of Coca-Cola in India

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Coca-Cola first entered India in 1956, operating with 100% foreign equity due to the lack of a foreign exchange act at that time. The Indian Foreign Exchange Regulation Act was introduced in 1973 during Indira Gandhi’s tenure. This act required foreign companies selling consumer goods in India to invest 40% of their equity in Indian associates. Although Coca-Cola agreed to invest 40% of its equity in India, it insisted on retaining full control over technical and administrative functions, excluding local participation.

This stance conflicted with the foreign exchange act. Consequently, the government instructed Coca-Cola to either revise its plan or exit the country. In 1976, Indira Gandhi called for elections, leading to the formation of a unified opposition under the Janata Party. The Janata Party came to power in 1977 and demanded that Coca-Cola either comply with the foreign exchange act or leave India. Coca-Cola chose to leave that year.

Following Coca-Cola’s departure, George Fernandes commented:
“Coke had 100% equity in India. Their investment was minimal—Rs. 6,00,000, equivalent to less than $20,000 at the time. From this investment, they repatriated an estimated 250 million rupees (about $8 million) in profit over twenty years.”

In 1993, Coca-Cola re-entered the Indian market, benefiting from new liberalization policies. The revised foreign exchange regulations allowed for up to 51% foreign equity and provided automatic approval for technology agreements in high-priority industries. Foreign investors and companies could now hold up to 100% equity in these sectors, with greater freedom for repatriating capital.

In 1999, Coca-Cola acquired Parle, India’s leading soft drink brand, which included popular beverages like Thums Up, Limca, and Gold Spot. Prior to the re-entry of Coca-Cola and Pepsi, over 50 Indian soft drink brands had emerged, and 200 production plants had been established. However, as Coca-Cola and Pepsi gained market dominance, many indigenous drinks disappeared, and the demand for healthier options declined.