My liver transplant was performed in November 2020, and I have been on a specific regimen of medication ever since. My body recognizes the new organ as a foreign object, so my immune system could potentially attack it at any time. To prevent this, my doctors have prescribed immunosuppressive medications. I take two different immunosuppressant drugs and a steroid that acts as an anti-rejection medication. These drugs are Tacrolimus, Mycophenolate, and Prednisolone. The most common brand of Mycophenolate worldwide is Cellcept, produced by Roche.
Initially, my doctors prescribed Cellcept, but I experienced side effects including upset stomach and headaches. Consequently, they discontinued it. Since my transplant, I’ve primarily relied on Tacrolimus and Prednisolone. However, during the past four years, I’ve had occasional infections requiring Mycophenolate. While the standard brand is Cellcept, I’ve been taking Mycofit S, produced by the Indian company Intas Pharmaceuticals. Cellcept is available in 500mg and 250mg strengths, whereas Mycofit S comes in 360mg capsules.
Cellcept typically costs around ₹650-700 per strip of 10 tablets, with a print rate of ₹750. Some people report getting even better deals, purchasing it for as low as ₹550. Mycofit-S 360, on the other hand, has a print rate of ₹1,330 per strip of 10 tablets. Given this significant price difference, I’d aim for a substantial discount on Mycofit-S. A 30% discount would bring the price down to around ₹930, which is still higher than Cellcept but more reasonable. However, I’d personally negotiate for a discount closer to 40% to make it more comparable to Cellcept’s price range.
Due to their specialized nature, immunosuppressant medications can be difficult to find. Despite Varanasi having a large medicine market near BHU, I struggled to locate Mycophenolate last year. Eventually, I found a shop that carried Mycofit-S 360 and purchased it for ₹900 after a 30% discount. I was surprised by the price. Considering my previous experience with Cellcept, I anticipated a similar or lower cost for Mycofit-S 360. However, it was nearly twice as expensive.
Given the high print rate of ₹1,330, I initially accepted the ₹900 price without question. However, I had a gut feeling something was amiss. I contacted a friend who had also undergone a transplant and was taking Mycofit-S, but in the 500mg strength. To my surprise, he paid only ₹300 per strip, despite a similar print rate of around ₹1,400. This significant discrepancy between the print rate and the actual selling price was shocking.
My friend explained that these pharmacies often charge regular customers between ₹900 and ₹1000 for Mycofit-S 360. However, they offer significant discounts to repeat customers or those with personal connections. He introduced me to his pharmacy, where I’ve been purchasing Mycofit-S 360 for ₹275 per strip ever since. Incredibly, this pharmacy is located just 50 meters away from the one that initially overcharged me.
Print rate of Mycofit S 360
I purchased Mycofit-S from the new pharmacy for a month until my doctors determined it was no longer necessary. Unfortunately, my liver function tests have been unsatisfactory for the past month, and despite adjusting the medication dosage, my doctors have restarted Mycofit-S 360. I typically buy medications from the ILBS hospital pharmacy in New Delhi. However, to my surprise, they quoted me ₹850 per strip for Mycofit-S 360. ILBS is a semi-private hospital operated by the Delhi state government, where I expected to receive subsidized medicines.
Initially, I considered buying other medications at ILBS and purchasing Mycofit-S 360 in Varanasi upon my return. However, I was concerned about the availability of the drug in Varanasi and my deteriorating health, so I opted to buy it at the ILBS pharmacy for ₹850 per strip. Upon returning to Varanasi, I visited a local pharmacy and was shocked to find the same medication for ₹275 per strip. Questioning the drastic price difference, the shopkeeper claimed it was a coordinated exploitation by pharmaceutical companies, retailers, and the government.
He explained that pharmaceutical companies have free rein to set exorbitant prices, and there’s little to no oversight. They collaborate with retailers to create a deceptive marketing strategy. While companies sell medications at relatively low prices, retailers drastically inflate costs. These retailers can offer substantial discounts while still making enormous profits, keeping customers satisfied. Unsuspecting consumers believe they’re getting a great deal with a 30% discount, unaware that they’ve actually paid four times the reasonable price.
It’s impossible to claim the government is oblivious to these unethical practices. They’re fully aware but seemingly indifferent to addressing the issue. Prime Minister Modi launched the Jan Aushadhi Kendra initiative to provide affordable, quality medicines. While offering generic alternatives at reduced costs, these centers unfortunately don’t stock all medications, including immunosuppressants. Had they done so, it would have been a game-changer for patients like me.
Life becomes prohibitively expensive after an organ transplant due to exorbitant medication costs and frequent hospital visits. Patients endure significant financial hardship, a reality that pharmaceutical companies seem to disregard. While pharmacies often overcharge, it’s essential to acknowledge the role of companies in setting inflated prices and the government’s failure to regulate the industry. Every patient I speak with expresses deep concern about the astronomical cost of their medications.
Immunosuppressive medications are a lifelong commitment, and I’ve observed that patients consistently seek ways to reduce costs. They explore different brands and alternatives to manage medication expenses, especially for Mycophenolate, the most expensive drug in the regimen. Exploiting the financial vulnerability of already suffering patients is unconscionable and must be stopped. However, considering the industry’s current practices, immediate hope for change seems elusive.
Indian Railways is the backbone of India’s transportation system, carrying over 24 million passengers daily. This figure excludes metro systems and other local trains in various Indian cities. India boasts the world’s fourth-largest railway network, operating more than 22,593 trains. It is recognized as one of the largest railway systems globally under single management. Indian Railways offers a diverse range of trains, including superfast express, express, passenger, Rajdhani, Shatabdi, and the semi-high-speed Vande Bharat. Luxury tourist options like the Maharaja Express and heritage Himalayan trains are also available.
Trains offer various seating and sleeping accommodations. Most trains include unreserved general class, non-AC sleeper, 3AC, 2AC, and 1AC classes. While Shatabdi and Vande Bharat currently lack sleeper options, the railway plans to introduce sleeper class Vande Bharat trains soon. It’s also rumored that Vande Bharat trains will replace older Shatabdi trains. Rajdhani Express connects state capitals and exclusively features air-conditioned coaches in 3AC, 2AC, and 1AC classes. Renowned for speed and luxury, Rajdhani Express is a popular choice for inter-state travel.
Shatabdi Express trains offer only chair car seating and connect major cities within shorter distances. Considered fast and luxurious, Shatabdi trains are popular among travelers. The majority of passengers, however, opt for superfast, express, and passenger trains. Indian railways underwent a significant transformation after 2014 under Prime Minister Modi’s leadership. Substantial investments were made to improve railway infrastructure. The implementation of the Clean India campaign led to enhanced sanitation at stations and within trains.
The most noticeable change since Modi came to power is the significantly improved cleanliness of railway stations. There are more comfortable amenities like better waiting areas, cafeterias, drinking water facilities, and overall sanitation. Trains also appear cleaner due to increased and frequent cleaning. A major upgrade is the introduction of vacuum pressure flush toilets in trains. Before 2014, train toilets directly emptied onto the tracks. These improvements have been widely appreciated by the public.
One other major change we’ve noticed is that the railways are shortening the number of non-AC sleeper class coaches. They are replacing these non-AC coaches with AC ones, primarily 3 AC coaches. They have introduced another AC class coach called 3 AC Economy. The 3 AC Economy coach has a capacity of 83 beds, while 3 AC coaches have a capacity of 72 beds. 2 AC coaches have a capacity of 54 beds, and 1 AC coaches offer coupes that can accommodate either 2 or 4 passengers. Non-AC sleeper coaches also have a capacity of 72 beds, and unreserved general class is open to all passengers.
There is usually a waitlist for all train classes. Tickets open four months in advance, and popular trains often sell out immediately. Availability typically dwindles to nothing about a month before departure, unless you try for a Tatkal (urgent) ticket, which opens a day in advance. Tatkal tickets are notoriously difficult to obtain, especially for AC classes, which open at 10 AM. The booking servers immediately become overloaded, and even a minute’s delay can mean losing out. After countless failed attempts, I’ve given up trying.
There are ticket agents who manage to buy tickets from the ticket counter. I’ve heard they bribe ticket counter officers to obtain them. Another major problem with Indian trains is delays. Such delays are so common that 15-20 minutes is hardly considered a delay. People often expect delays of an hour or more and plan their schedules accordingly. While trains are delayed for a day only during the dense fog of winter, there’s no doubt that punctuality has improved since 2014. However, there’s still significant room for improvement.
Indian Railways has been working to improve tracks and increase train speeds. I’ve noticed a significant change in train speeds. Before Mr. Modi took office, the average speed of most trains was around 70 kilometers per hour, but now it’s closer to 100-110. Vande Bharat, Shatabdi, and Rajdhani trains even run at 130-140 kilometers per hour. There has been considerable progress in railways over the past decade, but serious issues remain. Many major railway stations are still in poor condition, and the state of non-AC sleeper and general class coaches is so terrible it’s difficult to describe.
Waitlists for tickets are often so long that it’s very difficult to get a confirmed one. India is also building a Bullet train. The first Bullet train will connect Ahmedabad and Mumbai. Construction began in 2017 and was supposed to be operational by 2022 but was delayed due to the Covid pandemic. I’ve heard it might be operational by the end of 2025. I traveled in both non-AC sleeper and general class once last year, and I had such a horrible experience that it made me question the need for Bullet trains. A few months ago, I wanted to go to Delhi but couldn’t get a ticket from Varanasi on the train I wanted. The same train had seats available from Lucknow, so I booked a 2AC sleeper ticket from there.
I thought I’d simply buy a general class ticket from Varanasi to Lucknow and then upgrade to AC 2 there. I purchased an unreserved general class ticket. The train arrived thirty minutes late, and all non-AC sleeper and general class coaches were packed. As I tried to enter the unreserved general class compartment, the train started moving. I managed to board, but it was a huge mistake. The coach was so crowded I couldn’t even see my feet. Every seat was occupied, and people were sitting on the floor, luggage racks, and even outside the toilet.
There was no space at all to even sit on the floor. It was going to be a five-hour journey, and I had no idea how I would survive that long. Somehow, I managed to squeeze near the toilet and sit on the floor with other people. There were about ten of us crammed into one square meter. Since I was right by the toilet, I had to constantly move whenever someone needed to use it. Eventually, I had to go too, but when I opened the door, it was disgusting. Someone had thrown a plastic bottle in the toilet, it was clogged, and there was urine on the floor. It was impossible to use.
I came back to my spot on the floor, filled with regret for choosing general class. I knew conditions were bad, but I hadn’t realized how truly awful it was since my last general class journey. Despite the ordeal, these experiences can be quite eye-opening. I encountered a situation I never imagined. A family boarded at a stop; they looked like nomads without a permanent home. The family—a mother, father, and three children—was aggressive as soon as they entered. They loudly demanded space and pushed their way towards the toilet, ignoring other areas. It seemed like they already knew where they were headed.
They reached the toilet, entered together, and locked themselves in. Clearly, they saw it as their only available space. When others needed to use the toilet, the family refused to open the door. People started pounding on the door, but the family remained unresponsive and comfortable inside. The frustration grew, and people threatened to break down the door. Finally, the family opened it, appearing annoyed at the disturbance. They acted as if the toilet compartment was their private space. It’s unbelievable that passengers can take over a public toilet on a moving train.
Another bizarre encounter involved two fellow floor-sitters. One man had an open mouth ulcer from cancer, covered with a cloth. Given my immunosuppressive medication and heightened infection risk, being near him was terrifying. I couldn’t imagine his own suffering with cancer, let alone the added stress of this overcrowded, unsanitary environment. Such a journey would undoubtedly be incredibly challenging for someone battling cancer. It highlights the harsh realities faced by many due to economic constraints. Poverty often forces people into unimaginable situations.
There was another guy who wanted to go somewhere in Haryana, but the train only went as far as Delhi. He told me he had started the journey with just Rs. 500 and that the ticket checker had charged him that entire amount to issue a new ticket, leaving him with nothing. I suspected the ticket checker had taken a bribe, but the man showed me a legitimate Rs. 500 receipt for the new ticket. He explained that he would switch trains in Delhi, then take another train part of the way, and finally walk the last 40 kilometers.
I was shocked to discover he didn’t have a ticket for the next leg of his journey from Delhi, nor did he have money for a bus ticket to his final destination. His ordeal was heartbreaking. His innocence made me want to help, at least by buying him a bus ticket. As the train approached Lucknow, I grew increasingly eager to escape the general class compartment. I asked him how much a bus ticket would cost and gave him some money to ensure he wouldn’t have to walk the 40 kilometers.
The train arrived at Lucknow station thirty minutes late. I gave him some money, and he looked puzzled but accepted it gratefully. I changed to the AC 2 class, cleaned up in the washroom (AC class washrooms are usually clean), and went to my seat. That journey still haunts me. It’s heartbreaking to see the appalling condition of general class compartments in Indian trains, where ordinary people endure so much suffering. While some help is available on trains, the state of general class is so dire that it seems insufficient.
I recently had another experience traveling in non-AC class a few days ago. Usually, I book round-trip tickets before my journey, but this time I didn’t have a return ticket to Varanasi. I planned to buy a Tatkal ticket (available a day before departure) but couldn’t get one. As usual, the Indian Railways server crashed, and I couldn’t purchase a ticket. I explored other options from different cities and found a train from Gwalior to Varanasi with available seats for the next day. I booked a ticket on the Bundelkhand Express for the next day.
Gwalior is a four-hour train ride from Delhi, so I looked for a train to Gwalior that evening. All reserved seats were booked, so I decided to try unreserved class again since it was only a short journey. I arrived at Hazrat Nizamuddin railway station, bought a general ticket, and went to the platform. It was August 14th, and we had a holiday on the 15th. The 16th was Friday, and Saturday and Sunday are already officially off days. With another festival on Monday, it meant a long holiday, so many people were traveling back home. The platform was full of people waiting for the train. I thought that if the unreserved class was overcrowded, I would get on a reserved class and pay the penalty.
There were two unreserved coaches, and both became overcrowded as soon as the train arrived at the platform. People were even jumping onto the moving train to secure seats. By the time the train stopped, it was already overcrowded, so I couldn’t board. I went to the reserved non-AC class, hoping to find a spot in a corner. However, many others with general class tickets had the same idea, and the reserved coach was also packed.
It was incredibly difficult to even board the train, but somehow I managed. The train was so crowded that even those with confirmed seats were forced to share them. I managed to find a standing space and later used my backpack as a seat. Everyone said most passengers would get off at Mathura station, but the opposite happened: few got off, and more boarded. Eventually, I couldn’t even sit on my backpack and had to stand the entire time.
Not enough space even to stand
The next stop was Agra, and even more people got on. By this point, it was nearly impossible to stay in the compartment, but I had no other choice. People were sitting on the floor everywhere, and even the reserved seats were occupied by those with unreserved tickets. People trying to move were constantly stepping over others’ feet and luggage. Although the non-AC reserved coaches had open windows, it was so overcrowded that I felt suffocated the entire time.
Finally, the train arrived at Gwalior station, about 30 minutes late. These two recent experiences of traveling in non-AC class have been horrible, literally a nightmare. If there’s any other option, I wouldn’t want to travel in either unreserved or non-AC sleeper class again. It’s not just my story; everyone shares the same opinion about non-AC travel. While there have been improvements recently, many problems still need to be addressed, especially the condition of the unreserved class.
On one hand, we have numerous problems with running existing train services efficiently, while on the other, we’re investing in bullet trains. My recent experience has made me question the need for bullet trains at this point. I understand that such projects enhance a country’s image and attract foreign investment, but shouldn’t we prioritize improving existing services first? I believe focusing on making current trains better would be more appreciated by the Indian public and International community in general.
Why not try to end the waitlist in train tickets first? Why not make trains run on time first? Why not make them litter free first? Why not make the condition of general class coaches better first? Why not replace non-AC with AC coaches first? Why not try to improve the track quality first and make the trains faster? Why not arrange good pantry services available at all the trains first? Why make huge investment on Bullet trains when our other trains are in bad shape?
About 15 years ago, I met an English man who was an expert in building bullet trains. He had been involved in bullet train projects in Japan and other countries. He told me that Indian Railways had invited him to collaborate on a project in the 1970s. Forty years later, he returned to India as a tourist and wanted to see the progress of that project. He visited the Vadodara Railway Headquarters and was shocked to find that no progress had been made in the past four decades.
He said it wasn’t wise for India to build bullet trains while regular trains were in such poor condition. I agree to some extent. I want India to have modern rail infrastructure, but existing trains should be perfected first. I understand the government might be trying to shift lower-middle-class passengers from non-AC sleeper to AC coaches, but can everyone afford it? Do they even want to? And even if they do, are tickets available? Of course not!
I understand many people prefer non-AC travel due to financial constraints, and the government should address this. While Indian Railways passenger trains operate at a loss, subsidized by freight services, it’s unacceptable to neglect the conditions of non-AC coaches. There needs to be a balance between financial viability and passenger comfort.
The only solution I can think of is to replace all non-AC sleeper class coaches with 3AC Economy and all unreserved class coaches with a metro train-type coach. Every train should be air-conditioned and equipped with clean toilets. This would require additional funding, which could be recovered by charging passengers equally or slightly more for those traveling in 3AC, 2AC, or 1AC. Railway stations also need improvement, and the waitlist system for tickets should be eliminated.
With the rising middle class, many Indians now travel by airplane, but the majority still can’t afford it. India’s vast population and immense size contribute to its significant challenges. Solving even small problems requires immense effort. It often feels like there’s a lack of will to address these issues despite visible solutions. Indian bureaucracy is plagued by corruption, laziness, and a focus on personal comfort rather than public service.
Indian train journeys can be delightful if you secure a confirmed seat in AC class. I prefer train travel for overnight journeys. I wish the government would prioritize addressing the core issues affecting ordinary citizens. While I support the development of bullet trains, I believe improving existing train services is equally important. We need safer, more comfortable trains, an end to ticket waitlists, and a reduction in accidents and derailments. India has made significant strides in railway infrastructure over the past decade, and I’m optimistic about future improvements. I hope to see a world-class railway system that surpasses global standards.
India, before invasion, was renowned as a “golden bird” due to its material prosperity, profound spiritual wisdom, and advanced scientific understanding. From physiology and its inner dimensions to the concept of the multiverse, discussions and innovations were already prevalent. However, this golden age was disrupted by the devastating era of Islamic invasions, leading to widespread destruction. Millions of lives were lost, and countless people were forcibly converted to Islam. It is estimated that over 60,000 Hindu, Jain, and Buddhist temples were razed to the ground.
The destruction of Nalanda University and its incomparable library, along with the countless Jain and Hindu temples sacrificed to build the Qutub Minar, are well-documented tragedies. The suffering endured by the sacred sites of Ayodhya, Mathura, and Varanasi is similarly heart-wrenching. Indeed, the historical atrocities inflicted upon India are vast and complex, defying concise summation. Ultimately, the nation was partitioned, with present-day Pakistan, Bangladesh, and Nepal once forming an integral part of India. Expanding the cultural perspective, Tibet and Afghanistan were also deeply intertwined with the Indian subcontinent.
Following the brutal Islamic era, British colonial rule ensued, often referred to as the “British Raj.” However, many argue it was essentially a “Christian Raj,” with colonial objectives mirroring those of their Muslim predecessors: exploitation of India’s wealth and proselytization of Christianity. While Mother Teresa is celebrated for her humanitarian work, her canonization is often attributed to her role in religious conversion, particularly among the Hindu population.
Her work among the impoverished was undeniably extraordinary, defying verbal description. While her humanitarian efforts were commendable, it’s also acknowledged that her primary objective included proselytizing Christianity, particularly within the Hindu community. Despite the actions of previous rulers, India gained independence on August 15, 1947, igniting hope among millions. However, the nation has grappled with persistent challenges such as corruption, poverty, and illiteracy.
India’s journey into independence was marred almost immediately by the Jeep scam of 1948, a stark indicator of the challenges to come. Since then, a seemingly endless stream of scandals has plagued successive governments. The pervasive nature of corruption is exemplified by former Prime Minister Rajiv Gandhi’s infamous assertion that only 15 paise of every rupee allocated for public welfare actually reaches its intended beneficiaries, with the remaining 85 paise siphoned off by politicians, bureaucrats, and their associates.
The frequency and scale of corruption escalated over time. Multi-million and even billion-dollar scams became commonplace. International aid and loans intended for poverty alleviation were diverted into the coffers of politicians and bureaucrats. The plunder extended beyond foreign funds to the nation’s natural resources. The coal and Commonwealth Games scams are infamous examples of this rampant corruption.
Corruption had become so normalized that it was expected at every level of society. Citizens anticipated bribes from government employees and police officers. The opulent lifestyles of politicians, often funded through illicit means, were accepted without question. This systemic corruption created a toxic environment where dishonesty permeated every sector, from government offices to private businesses.
Finally the 2014 elections came and Mr. Narendra Modi was introduced as the Prime Ministerial candidate of the BJP party. Mr. Narendra Modi had a reputation of being business friendly, honest but also anti-minority. The ruling party Congress made Mr. Modi’s reputation of being anti-minority a huge issue. The elections were polarized in the name of minority appeasement. Mr. Modi was labeled as an anti-minority because of the Gurjat riots which took place in the year 2002. Gujrat riots started when a group of Hindu pilgrims train was attacked by Muslims in Gujrat.
“A train carrying Hindu pilgrims was set on fire by a Muslim mob, resulting in the deaths of several people. This incident triggered widespread communal violence across the state. Mr. Modi, the then Chief Minister, was criticized for his handling of the riots. However, his reputation as a business-friendly and honest leader, coupled with his successful track record of bringing development to Gujarat, significantly contributed to his election as Prime Minister of India in 2014.”
When Mr. Modi became Prime Minister, people had high expectations. They anticipated rapid improvements in governance, including zero corruption, enhanced internal and external security, transparency, better infrastructure, increased financial prosperity, and overall progress. It is now 2024, and Mr. Modi has completed two terms as Prime Minister. We have witnessed significant changes on the ground level.
We have witnessed some of his popular schemes, such as housing for all, direct benefit transfers,digital transactions, universal tap water supply, affordable internet, an excellent new road network, improved electricity, and sanitation, bring about changes in people’s lives. Additionally, there have been no new scams reported in the government thus far. While it’s possible that scams exist but remain undisclosed due to the current administration, it’s also noteworthy how many previously corrupt leaders from other parties have adopted a clean image upon joining the BJP.
Anyways, Mr. Modi seems to be a lot better leader than any other option but one place where his karizma does not seem to work is the corruption on ground level. The corruption which people face in their daily lives, such as corruption in government offices and policing. I know that Policing is a matter of the state government and Mr. Modi can not do anything about it. I also know that most of the work which literally matters in people’s lives is done by the state governments. There are many central government run offices and institutions in different states but they are also somehow highly affected by the governance of the state.
I cannot think of a single government office where anyone can get any work done without offering a bribe. If I want a new electricity connection, I will have to offer a bribe. To build a house, I will have to bribe someone in the municipality and city development authority. Starting a business requires bribing the concerned authorities. Even getting a loan or registering a police complaint involves paying bribes.
The government of India has a program called housing for all. The way this scheme work is that if someone who has a piece of land but not a house then the government gives some money. The money is sent directly into the beneficiary’s account in four different installments. The beneficiary provides a plan, gets it approved by some government officer and then the amount is sent directly to the beneficiary’s account. But since there is an officer involved in between, he charges almost 20% bribe in advance, I have heard that at some places its even 40%.
So, I mean to say that corruption is prevalent in almost every aspect of life, and it’s often incredibly frustrating. I have countless personal experiences with corruption and would like to share a recent incident involving the birth of a child in my family and the death of my uncle. This case highlights corruption within the central government, state government, and private sector—a reflection of the broader corruption of humanity.
Let’s focus on the birth of my sister-in-law’s child. Most people who can afford private healthcare avoid government hospitals due to inefficiency caused by corruption. This isn’t about the quality of doctors but the poor service resulting from corruption. Patients are often neglected, with doctors and nurses absent or unwilling to see them. Senior residents handle most cases, and essential services like medicines are charged despite being supposedly free. The infrastructure is excellent on paper but poorly maintained.
My sister-in-law’s husband was unemployed when she was pregnant, so they opted for government hospital services, which were supposed to be free (including medicines, delivery, vaccines, supplements, and doctor fees). The day she went into labor, she was rushed to the hospital and, after much chaos, was admitted. They informed the family that she would deliver that night and that she was hemoglobin-deficient, requiring three units of blood. The family managed to find donors without difficulty.
The hospital planned to perform a caesarean section. When I visited her, I was appalled by the conditions. The mattresses were dirty, the bedsheets used, and garbage littered the floor. A single nurse was responsible for perhaps fifty patients, with many nursing duties delegated to family members. It was horrifying. To add insult to injury, the hospital demanded a bribe of Rs. 7000 for the delivery, payable in advance.
The surgery was scheduled for around 9 PM, but they demanded the money around 5 PM. Seven thousand rupees might not seem like a large sum to a middle-class Indian family, but it was a significant amount for someone unemployed. The father didn’t have the money and was struggling to arrange funds for his wife’s post-surgery care. This sudden, unexpected expense was overwhelming.
He questioned the hospital staff about the fee, given that the surgery was supposed to be free. The response was that while the surgery itself was free, a payment was still required. This money, they claimed, went directly to the doctor, and failure to pay could jeopardize the mother and child during the operation. Imagine the shock and fear this caused. The hospital employee explicitly threatened the well-being of the mother and child if the bribe wasn’t paid.
Despite lacking the funds, the father felt compelled to comply. He borrowed the money and gave it to the hospital employee. Only after the bribe was paid was his wife taken into the operating room. This harrowing ordeal illustrates the deep-rooted corruption a person faces even before birth in India.
Now let’s discuss the other incident involving my uncle’s death. One of my uncles died in a motorcycle accident a few months ago while returning home. He was alone when the accident occurred and was brought to the hospital by strangers. My uncle was still alive at the accident scene and gave his mobile phone to passersby, asking them to inform his family. They called some relatives using his phone and then took him to BHU, Varanasi’s largest hospital.
BHU is a centrally funded university with the region’s largest hospital. It’s the backbone of healthcare in eastern Uttar Pradesh and serves patients from neighboring states like Bihar and Madhya Pradesh. My uncle was brought to BHU’s trauma center already deceased. Upon arriving at the hospital, I found his body unattended. The doctor informed me that my uncle had been brought in dead and hadn’t been officially admitted. They asked if we wanted to take the body or if they should perform an autopsy. Indian law mandates an autopsy in cases of unnatural death. As an autopsy is required for insurance claims, loans, and other financial matters, we requested one.
BHU staff informed us that they no longer performed autopsies on-site. Instead, all autopsies were conducted at another government hospital about 10 kilometers away. They explained that they would first inform the police, who would then handle the paperwork before the body could be transferred. Our request for an autopsy initiated a series of frustrating and corrupt events.
The hospital had stretchers but stored them outside the trauma center. We were asked to fetch one ourselves, a minor inconvenience but a task that should have been handled by hospital staff, especially considering the emotional state of grieving families. After obtaining a stretcher, we waited for hospital personnel to assist in moving the body to the mortuary.
An hour later, someone arrived, but initially refused to touch the body, demanding that we move it to the stretcher. My brother and I were unable to do so alone and needed additional help. Despite our pleas, we were forced to move the body ourselves. We then had to transport the stretcher with the body approximately 300 meters to the mortuary.
Moving a stretcher with a body on it requires proper handling. I had no experience with stretchers but somehow managed to navigate it. We finally reached the mortuary, which could accommodate about four to six bodies. There was no hospital staff to open the mortuary or store the body. The accompanying hospital employee was only there for paperwork. He called someone, and after about thirty minutes, a severely intoxicated man arrived, reeking of alcohol.
He wasn’t a regular BHU employee but a temporary hire. I believe there should be a dedicated person for this job, but someone was likely avoiding their duties. This is a common issue in India, where government employees often delegate their work to others while still receiving a salary. I suspect this was a similar case. In fact, I know someone personally working at a village health center who never shows up for work. He’s anxious now because the government is implementing a biometric attendance system.
Anyway, this intoxicated man demanded payment for his services. He asked for 1000 rupees to move the body into the mortuary and later retrieve it. The real challenge began when we tried to move the body with this drunk man. Just the two of us, plus him, had to handle a body soaked in blood from the accident. The bleeding hadn’t stopped. With great difficulty, my brother and I managed to move the body into the mortuary with his help. Then the hospital staff told us to wait for the police.
He said they had already informed the police but suggested we contact them directly to speed up the process. He also mentioned that the autopsy hospital had a 4 PM cutoff and if we were late, the autopsy would be postponed until the next day. He warned that if we arrived after the cutoff, there might not be mortuary space available for the night. Now we had to decide whether to proceed with the autopsy that day or wait until the following day.
It was already 1 PM, leaving us just three hours to complete the police paperwork and reach the other hospital. The police finally arrived around 3 PM. They asked the intoxicated man to remove the body from the mortuary. He again requested our help, which we reluctantly provided. As we placed the body on the floor, blood gushed out everywhere. This is clearly a job for trained professionals, not family members. Despite the mess, we managed to position the body on the bare floor while the police questioned the intoxicated man about the body’s condition.
I was astonished to see the police officers didn’t even examine the body. They sat about 20 meters away, conversing with the intoxicated man. The officer recorded the man’s description of the body: fair complexion, a jaw injury, a scratch above the eyebrow, and the clothing color. Meanwhile, we were tasked with arranging an ambulance to transport the body to the other hospital. It’s unbelievable that such a large hospital lacked an ambulance, or perhaps they were unwilling to provide one. We were directed to contact private ambulance services.
We found a vehicle with “ambulance” written on it, but it wasn’t a real ambulance. The seating arrangement was the only difference from a regular car. The person helping us find an ambulance warned me that these ambulance drivers often charge extra and that I might need to negotiate. It was heartbreaking to realize that even in death, corruption and bargaining were involved. Overwhelmed, I simply asked him to find an ambulance. The police then demanded a special packing material that was sold outside. Neither the police nor the hospital had any.
We found the required packing material at a nearby store. It was a large plastic bag with the Uttar Pradesh Police logo. With the drunken man’s assistance, we placed the body in the bag and sealed it properly using wax and a hospital logo. We managed to leave BHU around 3:20 PM, giving us only 20 minutes to reach the other hospital. We arrived just in time and handed over the body, waiting outside. To my astonishment, the body was returned to us within 45 minutes. I’ve always questioned how such a complex procedure could be completed so quickly.
It appears they simply opened the body cavity and closed it without performing any actual procedures. They probably copied the information directly from the police report, which was inaccurate as it was dictated by the intoxicated man, not the police themselves. The body was returned to us, and we cremated it that evening. My uncle’s family went to their ancestral village for post-cremation rituals and later returned to Varanasi to obtain the death certificate after two weeks.
Typically, death and birth certificates are issued by the municipality. We contacted the municipality, and they requested a police report. At the police station, we were informed that the report was under process and would take at least a week to complete. They suggested finding the specific officer who created the report. After locating the officer, we were told that police reports are confidential and not shared with families. We could apply for a certified copy once the report was submitted to the police commissioner’s office. As an alternative, the officer offered to provide an unofficial, unsealed copy, which he claimed would suffice for the municipality.
We asked the municipality official for the non-official police report. We returned to the police officer and witnessed him making a phone call to another officer on speakerphone. The other officer agreed to prepare the report if we “took care” of him, a clear request for a bribe. It was unimaginable to be extorted in such a manner while grieving a loss.
By this time, we already knew someone who could help us, but we decided to try another option. We contacted someone at a larger police station’s communication department, who agreed to provide the report. We were told to return the next day to collect it. When we arrived, the officer openly asked for a bribe. He was young, probably around 27 or 28, and demanded whatever we could give him. My cousin offered the only cash he had, 200 rupees, but the officer insisted on more.
After a few minutes of negotiation, he handed us the report, and we left without further conversation. So, he did demand a bribe but ultimately received nothing. We obtained the certificate, but the ordeal was far from over. We later discovered a misspelling of my uncle’s name on the report, rendering it useless. The next day, we visited the municipality office, where we were informed that due to the involvement of the police and BHU, the death certificate would be issued by BHU, not the municipality.
We contacted the BHU office the next day to explain the name misspelling issue. The officer stated that it didn’t matter and they would use the name from the ID card, not the police report. This was a relief. We filled out the required form and submitted it. Inquiring about the processing time, we received a surprising response. The officer mentioned it could take a week if the government website was functioning correctly, but it might take one to two months if the website was down. When we asked about the website’s reliability, he explained that it often experienced technical difficulties, hindering certificate generation.
I was astonished that while India boasts of widespread smartphone usage, 5G internet, and globally renowned tech professionals, our government websites are dysfunctional. Eventually, we navigated the university bureaucracy and obtained the certificate within three days.
Comparing these two cases, we find starkly contrasting situations: one involving a yet-to-be-born child and the other a deceased individual. Multiple institutions were implicated: a state-run hospital for the caesarean section, a central government hospital like BHU, another state-run hospital for the autopsy, state police, and a private ambulance service. The common thread throughout this ordeal was corruption at every step. One life was adversely affected before birth, while the other continued to grapple with its consequences even in death.
Everyone in India experiences corruption at some level, but people seem desensitized to it. One of India’s most significant problems is poverty, primarily caused by corruption and overpopulation. I believe poverty could be eradicated within a few decades if corruption were eliminated. I once met an American working for the World Bank in Bangladesh who had just completed a ten-year project there. He was visiting India on vacation before returning home.
He told me that the World Bank provided substantial funds for road construction in Bangladesh, but corruption prevented the completion of even a single project. He explained that projects were intentionally delayed as a pretext to request more money. Consequently, projects were perpetually delayed, and no one benefited. He admitted to not completing a single project in his ten-year career. India also faced similar issues under previous governments, but there seems to be improvement under Prime Minister Modi. While hopeful about Modi’s leadership, I recognize the challenge of tackling corruption. His reputation makes him a target for opposition, even to his positive initiatives. It’s essential for everyone to prioritize the fight against corruption if India and its people are to realize their full potential.
इस पोस्ट को लिखने के पीछे मेरा केवल एक धेय है मैं कोविड पॉजिटिव से नेगेटिव होने तक के अपने अनुभव को लोगों के साथ साझा कर सकूं जिससे दूसरों की मदद हो सके. लेकिन मैं एक बात स्पष्ठ कर देना चाहता हूँ की मैं कोई डॉक्टर नहीं हूँ, और न ही इस पोस्ट के माध्यम से मैं किसी को कोरोना के ईलाज के सम्बन्ध में कोई सलाह दे रहा हूँ. हर किसी का शरीर अलग होता है तथा एक ही बीमारी अलग अलग लोगों के साथ अलग अलग तरह से व्यवहार करती है. इसलिए कृपया इस पोस्ट को केवल मेरा अनुभव ही समझे और उससे ज्यादा कुछ भी नहीं. हाँ एक व्यक्तिगत सलाह जरूर देंगे की यदि आपको जरा भी आशंका है की आप कोरोना पॉजिटिव हो सकते हैं तो बिना देरी के अपना टेस्ट करवाएं एवं डॉक्टर से उचित सलाह ले कर ही कोई भी काम करें.
मेरे लिए कोरोना पॉजिटिव होना एक आम इंसान के कोरोना पॉजिटिव होने से बहुत ज्यादा खतरनाक था क्योकि मैं अपने लीवर ट्रांसप्लांट के बाद से immunosuppressive दवाएं लेता हूँ जो मेरे शरीर के रोग से लड़ने की क्षमता को कमजोर रखता है. जहाँ कोरोना के ईलाज के लिए सभी डॉक्टर केवल रोग प्रतिरोधक क्षमता को मजबूत रखना ही इस महामारी का ईलाज बताते हैं वहीँ मजबूरन मैं अपनी रोक प्रतिरोधक क्षमता को कमजोर करने की दावा लेता था. और इस दवा के लेने की वजह से मुझे ये मालूम था की मेरे लिए कोरोना से लड़ना किसी दुसरे आम इन्सान की तुलना में थोडा कठिन होने वाला था. कोरोना जांच की रिपोर्ट आने के पहले ही मुझे इस बात का अंदाज़ हो चूका था की मैं कोरोना पॉजिटिव था क्योकि मेरे सूंघने की शक्ति बिल्कुल क्षीण हो चुकी थी.
जैसे ही मुझे ये अहसाह हुआ था मैं कोरोना पॉजिटिव हो सकता हूँ मैंने सर्वप्रथम अपने आपको बाकी के परिवार के सदस्यों से पूरी तरह से अलग कर लिया था. जब रिपोर्ट आ गयी उसके बाद सबसे पहले मैंने अपने लीवर के डॉक्टर को ILBS हॉस्पिटल में सूचना दी. उन्होंने बोला की immunosuppressive दवाएं बंद कर दो क्योकि कोरोना के ईलाज में रोग प्रतिरोधक क्षमता मजबूत होनी चाहिए और मेरी दवाएं उसको कमजोर रखने के लिए हैं. ये मेरे लिए बहुत विचित्र स्थिति थी क्योकि यदि immunosuppressive दवाएं बंद होती हैं तो मेरे ट्रांसप्लांट हुए लीवर के लिए घातक है और यदि वो दवाएं लेते रहे तो कोरोना के ईलाज के लिए घातक.
उन्होंने मुझे कोरोना के ईलाज से सम्बंधित कुछ दवाएं भी दी. मेरे डॉक्टर का कहना था की कोरोना के लिए कोई विशेष दवा नहीं बनी है, व्यक्ति का खुद का शरीर ही कोरोना से लड़ता है. साथ में जो दवाएं दी जाती हैं वो केवल शरीर की आधारभूत जरूरतों को पूरा करने के लिए दी जाती हैं जैसे मल्टीविटामिन, जिंक और विटामिन C. मुझे मात्र यही 3 दवाएं दी गयी थी, इसके अलावा कुछ भी नहीं. इसके साथ में मुझे दूध-हल्दी, दिन में कम से कम 4 बार भाप लेना, प्राणायाम, सांस लेने से सम्बंधित दूसरे व्यायाम और स्पाईरोमीटर से दिन में 3-4 बार व्यायाम करने के लिए बोला गया. साथ में अपना पल्स रेट और ऑक्सीजन लेवल भी देखते रहने को बोला गया.
मेरे डॉक्टर ने बोला की घर पर आराम करना है, संतुलित भोजन करना है और यदि सांस लेने में तकलीफ होती है तो तुरंत किसी पास के कोविड हॉस्पिटल में एडमिट हो जाना है. डॉक्टर ने ये भी बोला की यदि ऑक्सीजन लेवल 95 से नीचे होता है तो डॉक्टर से संपर्क करना चाहिए. मुझे ऑक्सीजन लेवल का अंदाज़ पहले से था क्योकि अपने लीवर के ईलाज के समय मैं काफी समय तक ऑक्सीजन सपोर्ट पर था और मुझे इस बात का अंदाज़ था की अगर ऑक्सीजन लेवल 90 तक भी पहुच जाता है तो उसमे हॉस्पिटल की तुरंत जरूरत नहीं है. इसके अलावा कुछ स्वास से सम्बंधित व्यायाम भी मुझे काफी पहले से मालूम थे जिसको करने से शरीर का ऑक्सीजन लेवल बढाने में मदद मिलती है जैसे की Proning या कुछ योग एवं प्राणायाम.
प्रोनिंग एक प्रकार की बैठने, लेटने और सांस लेने की विशेष अवस्था है जिसके द्वारा ज्यादा से ज्यादा सांस फेफड़ों में भरी जा सके ताकि शरीर का ऑक्सीजन लेवल बना रहे. प्रोनिंग और योग द्वारा ऑक्सीजन लेवल बढाने की प्रक्रिया लगभग एक सी ही है बस करने का तरीका थोडा अलग है. प्रोनिंग में भी एक विशेष अवस्था में बैठ कर या लेट कर फेफड़ों में ज्यादा से ज्यादा ऑक्सीजन भरने की बात की जाती है और योग प्राणायाम तो पूरी तरह से सांस भरने और छोड़ने पर आधारित प्रक्रिया है. लेकिन इनमे से किसी को भी करने के पहले मुझे ऐसा लगता है की किसी विशेषज्ञ की सलाह लेनी चाहिए. योग प्राणायाम से ऑक्सीजन लेवल बनाये रखने के लिए बाबा रामदेव भी कई आसनों और प्राणायाम बताते हैं जिसको इस विडियो में देख सकते हैं-
मेरे पॉजिटिव होने के कुछ दिन बाद से एक एक कर के मेरे घर के सभी सदस्य कोविड पॉजिटिव हो गए और हम सभी लोगों ने वहीँ दवाइयां ली जो मेरे डॉक्टर ने मुझे बताई थी और वही दिनचर्या का पालन किया जैसा डॉक्टर ने बोला था. मेरे बड़े भाई ने बनारस के किसी डॉक्टर के द्वारा बताई गयी दवाइयां ली थी जो मेरे दवाइयों से थोड़ी अलग थी. बनारस में डॉक्टर मल्टी विटामिन, जिंक, विटामिन C के साथ में Doxycycline, Montelukast and Fexofenadine और Ivermectin भी दे रहे थे जबकि मैंने केवल मल्टीविटामिन, जिंक और विटामिन C ही लिया था. अंततः 15 दिन बाद मैंने अपना RT PCR टेस्ट करवाया और रिपोर्ट नेगेटिव आ गई और एक एक कर के परिवार के सभी सदस्य भी नेगेटिव हो गए.
पॉजिटिव से नेगेटिव होने के इस दौर में जो महत्वपूर्ण बातें नोटिस किया जिससे मुझे बहुत मदद मिली वो थी-
जैसे ही शंका हुआ मैंने तुरंत अपना टेस्ट करवा लिया जिससे की मुझे ये पता चल गया की मुझे कोविड का इन्फेक्शन है जिससे मुझे मेरा ईलाज सही समय पर शुरू करने में मदद मिली. आज सभी का ये मानना है की यदि कोविड के इन्फेक्शन का पता सही समय पर चल जाये तो इससे लड़ाई आसान हो जाती है. नहीं तो अगर ये इन्फेक्शन बढ़ गया तो फिर दुनिया जानती है की इसकी कोई दवा नहीं है. इसलिए अगर जरा सा भी शंका हो की कोविड का इन्फेक्शन हो सकता है तो तुरंत टेस्ट करवाना चाहिए और डॉक्टर के निर्देशन में अपना ईलाज शुरू कर देना चाहिए.
अपने आपको सबसे अलग कर लेना और घर पर भी रहना बहुत महत्वपूर्ण है क्योकि कोविड शरीर के रोग प्रतिरोधक क्षमता को कमजोर कर देता है और यदि उस समय कोई घर के बाहर आता जाता है या दूसरे व्यक्तियों के संपर्क में आता है तो उसे दूसरा इन्फेक्शन भी आने का खतरा होता है और साथ ही साथ वो अपना इन्फेक्शन दूसरे को भी दे देता है क्योकि कोरोना बहुत ही जबरदस्त संक्रामक वायरस है जो एक व्यक्ति से दूसरे व्यक्ति में बहुत आसानी से फ़ैल जाता है. कई वैज्ञानिक तो यहाँ तक बोल रहे है की ये हवा से फैलने वाला वायरस है इसलिए अपने आपको आइसोलेट कर लेने में ही समझदारी है.
भाप लेना बहुत मदद किया – मेरे डॉक्टर ने मुझे दिन में 3-4 बार भाप लेने के लिए बोला था जिसका मुझे बहुत फायदा महसूस हुआ. शायद इसी वजह से मुझे खांसी या खरास की दिक्कत नहीं हुई. भाप लेने के लिए शुरू के 2-3 दिन मैंने घर पर ही बड़े बर्तन में पानी गर्म कर के भाप लिया लेकिन उसके बाद एक छोटी मशीन खरीद लिया जिससे काम और आसान हो गया. भाप लेने सम्बंधित भी कुछ नियम है जिसका पालन करना चाहिए.
स्पाईरोमीटर – स्पाईरोमीटर एक छोटा सा यन्त्र होता है जिसका इस्तेमाल फेफड़ों और सांस सम्बंधित व्यायाम करने के लिए किया जाता है. इसमें बंद चौकोर डिब्बे में 3 बाल होती हैं जिससे एक पाइप जुडी होती है. उसी पाइप से सांस अन्दर खीचने पर वो बालें ऊपर की और उठती हैं. जितनी जोर से सांस खींचा जायेगा उतनी ज्यादा बाल ऊपर उठती है. ये फेफड़ों के लिए बहुत ही बेहतरीन व्यायाम है. मेरे डॉक्टर ने मुझे ये व्यायाम दिन में 4-5 बार करने के लिए बोला था.
दूध हल्दी का सेवन करना हमेशा से ही अच्छा माना गया है जिसको आयुर्वेद और अंग्रेजी डॉक्टर दोनों लोग मान्यता देते हैं. दूध हल्दी से रोग प्रतिरोधक क्षमता मजबूत है जो की कोरोना से लड़ने का एकमात्र उपाय है. इसका सेवन करने की सलाह भी मुझे मेरे डॉक्टर ने दिया था. इसके साथ में हल्का, सुपाच्य और स्वास्थ्कारी भोजन (घर का बना हुआ ज्यादा तेल, घी, मसाले वाला नहीं) करने की सलाह दी गयी थी.
कुल मिलाजुला कर मेरा अनुभव ये रहा की यदि कोरोना का इन्फेक्शन सही समय पर पता चल जाये और यदि व्यक्ति डॉक्टर की सलाह माने तो इस इन्फेक्शन को ख़त्म करने में बहुत मदद मिल सकती है. इसलिए यदि जरा सी भी शंका हो तो तुरंत टेस्ट करवाना चाहिए. दूसरी बहुत महत्वपूर्ण बात ये की इस इन्फेक्शन को लेकर घबराना नहीं चाहिए. मैंने देखा है की लोग कोरोना का नाम सुनते ही बहुत ज्यादा डर जाते हैं. जहाँ तक हो सके सकारात्मक रहने का प्रयास करना चाहिए, घर पर हैं तो अपने पसंद की फिल्म देखिये, किताबें पढ़िए….कोई भी काम जो बिना किसी दूसरे से मिले जुले हो सकता है. जहाँ तक हो सके हॉस्पिटल से दूरी बनाने में ही समझदारी है.
मुझे ऐसा लगता है की यदि मेरे जैस आदमी जिसका मात्र 5 महीने पहले लीवर ट्रांसप्लांट हुआ हो, जो immunosupressive दवाएं लेता हो अगर वो इस वायरस को परास्त कर सकता है तो कोई भी व्यक्ति सही निर्णय लेकर कोरोना को परास्त कर सकता है. जैसा की मैंने शुरू में लिखा है की ये लेख मेरा व्यक्तिगत अनुभव मात्र है और इससे ज्यादा कुछ नहीं. मैं कोई डॉक्टर नहीं हूँ ना ही मुझे कोरोना या उससे सम्बंधित कोई वैज्ञानिक जानकारी है. इसलिए इस लेख को एक सच्ची कहानी से ज्यादा कुछ भी न समझे. कुछ भी परेशानी होने पर तुरंत डॉक्टर से संपर्क करें और उनके निर्देशानुसार ही अपना इलाज करें.
Tourism is life line of Varanasi and biggest attraction for tourists has always been Kashi Vishwanath Temple and the river Ganga. I can’t even think of any tourist of pilgrim coming to Varanasi without having desire to at least visit Kashi Vishwanath Temple and have at least one boat ride on the river. As per the data of UP Tourism board nearly 7 million tourists had visited Varanasi in the 2017 and the number is growing every year. But because of bad infrastructure Varanasi was not able to impress tourists and pilgrims as much as it should have done. The city was a complete mess until 2014. Luckily Varanasi elected Mr. Narendra Modi as the member of parliament from Varanasi and he is also the current Prime Minister of India now.
Ganga Cruise Alaknanda
During his tenure of past 4 years this city has changed a lot. They worked a lot for cleanliness under Swatch Bharat Mission which had huge positive impact on the city. Mr. Modi always talks about tourism hence he personally took interest in developing tourism facilities in Varanasi. And the most recent change is Ganga Cruise. We had small boats (hand rowing and engine run both) which can handle 4-6 people. Hand rowing boats are fine but the there was a huge increase in number of engine boats which had basically ruined the whole experience. It is very loud and since it is run on a diesel engine it creates huge pollution. People want to have peace when they go on a boat but these boats were very bad.
Ganga Cruise Alaknanda
I have had so many guests who were disappointed with the boats. If fact they were willing to pay extra to have a bigger, safer and comfortable boat but it was not possible at all because we did not have any other option. But finally we have Ganga cruise as well which will leave positive impact on tourism in Varanasi and will definitely attract more tourists. The government has started this new cruise named Alaknanda and I have been told that it is a double-decker cruise ship which will be able to carry more than 100 passengers at any given time. The liner is equipped with 60 luxurious sofas to make your voyage incredibly comfortable and have eco-friendly bio-toilets. It also has an extensively equipped kitchen which will serve both veg and non-veg dishes to please your taste buds.
Ganga Cruise Alaknanda
The lower deck of the cruise is fully air-conditioned and has a small stage which boosts all the needed multimedia functionality. To keep you connected to the modern world it also offers free on-board WiFi. The upper deck is a restaurant and will let you enjoy the view while hogging on your favorite food! The cruise is even equipped with numerous safety features and an on-board lifeguard for emergencies. When Cabinet Minister Mr. Nitin Gadhkari proposed the idea of Motorways, many People mocked him….but look at it….it is indeed happening…..it is the future.
I work in hospitality industry and I have been trying to learn about it ever since I started working. I had already heard about India having so many problems for tourists but never realized how serious the problem was. Every once in a while I heard about something but it was not possible for me to realize how big the problem was and how easily we could solve it and make more money and send our guests back with a positive impression about India. The biggest problem I was hearing all the time was the issue of forced shopping and I was seriously upset with it. For whatever reasons I was never ever interested in it but I was still happy with the money I was given for my services.
Now when I am back after my first trip out of India, my industry seem shockingly in terrible condition and I feel very sad about it. I traveled in Europe for 14 days and to be honest I was traveling ever hour of the day, except when I slept. I was just not at home at all. I went to all almost all kinds of tourist places possible in Europe and I was really surprised how easy everything was and how the government and people were so nice and welcoming for tourists. The only difference was the cost but its not an issue because life was very expensive in Europe and they definitely need to charge more.
And the good thing was that at least you get what you want after paying for it. Its just not possible at all to buy good services in India. I am not saying that its impossible to get good service but its very hard. I have no idea why such things are going on and why not government and the people of my country are serious about it. We need to understand that Tourism in India is relatively undeveloped, but a high growth sector. It contributes 6.23% to the national GDP and 8.78% of the total employment. A World Travel and Tourism Council (WTTC) report says that by 2020, tourism in India could contribute Rs. 8,50,000 crores to the GDP. In other words, every man, woman and child could become richer by Rs.7,000. India has yet to realize its full potential from tourism.
The Travel and Tourism industry holds tremendous potential for India’s economy. It can provide impetus to other industries and create millions of new jobs. But we won’t be able to make this dream come true if we don’t organize our tourism industry. The major problems tourists face in India is the lack of basic infrastructure, behavior of people working in tourism industry (tourists guides, drivers, hotel staff, restaurants etc), unorganized services, people on the street targeting tourists etc. To be honest I don’t really think that we need to make huge changes, we can organize tourism only by making little efforts.
A few things happened with me in recent times which made me write this article. At first my Europe trip which was like an enlightenment for me other than that the first attraction with a foreign tourist after returning back to India. Actually it was going to be my first work after returning back to India. I was going to work with a Dutch family. I was going to take them on the boat ride. This assignment was given to me by a travel agency, the only agency I work with in whole India. Usually I talk with my guests the evening before the working day. I called the hotel several times but no one responded.
In fact they were staying at a very nice hotel in Varanasi and I was just not expecting such behavior at all but it happened. I wanted to talk with the guest just to reconfirm the timing and other details. I went to the hotel and met with the guest. The guest seemed seriously upset when I met with him at first. He told me- Thank you so much for coming otherwise I was not hoping to see anyone. I was really surprised why he told me such thing. I started talking with him and he said that he was traveling with his wife and daughter and he had requested his travel agent to provide them either a triple bed room or two different rooms but today he was provided only one double bed room.
And when he asked the hotel where would he sleep, the hotel said that they could give him a blanket and he needed to sleep on the floor. He was so upset with it and told me that his dog sleeps on the floor and he always sleep in his bed. He called his agent in India and they said that this is Indian way. Finally he decided to booked another room and paid from his pocket. He had already paid for everything but here he had to pay for the mistake he was not responsible for. The guest was so upset that he said he was very well aware the hotel guy and the travel agency guy sleeping in the bed but they did not care at all about him. I was really sorry for him but…
Anyways, I needed to discuss about my work with him next morning so we just sat together and discussed about the next morning. He said that he did not want to go on any boat ride as he was already super exhausted by traveling for 14 hours on a train and then having all the crazy experience at the hotel. He asked me if I could arrange his boat ride for the evening. As a tourist guide working for someone else it was not under my power to change his boat ride. As per the rules of the travel agency I was working with he needed to pay again because he was the one who wanted to cancel the tour. And in any case we would have to pay the boat guy doesn’t matter whether use him or not after making a booking.
He also seemed fine with this and asked me the price but when I told him the price he was again upset. He said that it was a rip off. I could easily see that he was prepared to tell this way before I told him the price because he was seriously upset with everything. He had no idea what I was asking for but he had developed this mentality that I was going to cheat him. I had asked him for Rs. 1200 per person and this is the rate travel agency in Varanasi charge. He had paid almost three times more to his agent for the morning boat he canceled but still Rs. 1200 seemed like a rip off to him.
I could easily see how upset and angry he was and I was the one who was dealing with him alone. I was seriously scared but I knew how to make Dutch people happy:) I have worked with many Dutch people already but the most important thing is that I have worked with a very popular TV channel called VPRO from The Netherlands. All the Dutch people I ever met know about this TV channel and they all way that they like this channel a lot and follow their programs as they are very progressive channel. And when I tell them that I have already done so many assignments and research for VPRO they become very interested in me and seem so comfortable and happy with me around them.
I knew it would make him happy and comfortable if I tell him about my relations with Dutchland so I shot my arrow and it worked. He was kind of shocked at first and later so happy and comfortable. He invited me to have a beer with him. We went on the roof top restaurant of the same hotel and ordered beer. We were just talking and talking about my work with Dutch people and what he could do the next day in Varanasi and already passed more than 20 minutes but no beer. Neither I nor the guest had any idea why the service was so later as beer is a packaged drink, the hotel did not need to produce it.
I asked the waitstaff again about our order and he said, it will come soon. I asked how soon and he said ten minutes. I asked why and he did not answer me. At this moment I thought maybe they went out to buy the beer and we started talking again. After ten minutes I again asked the waitstaff about our order and he just open the refrigerator right next to our table and gave the beer to us. The refrigerator was literally right next to our table, so close that I could easily opened and taken the beer out without leaving my chair. I just did not understand why he made us wait for 30 minutes???
Impossible to imagine but this is what happened. I can’t even imagine why they did not serve our order on time. Were they worried about me? Were they personally upset with the guest? Or do they just don’t care about their guests at all? Didn’t they care about the money we were going to give them by buying their goods? In any case if they did not want to entertain us then they should have just told us about it. Even after doing it no one said sorry or anything. No one explained why they were so late even when we asked them. Why such things happen?
Such kind of thing is just an example which happened recently with me otherwise I encounter something crazy every time I am working and I know it very well that most of the tourists must be facing similar problems, or maybe bigger, when they are in India. I spent fifteen days traveling in Hungary, Austria and Slovakia and I hardly noticed such things two three times but the problems I noticed in Europe was different and was not as extreme as here. It happened only once in Budapest when someone approached me trying to sell an iphone but it was very easy to avoid him. I noticed a problem second and time in Bratislava, Slovakia where a waitstaff at a restaurant did not speak any English and was dealing with customers.
We ordered something else and got something different. Other than this I just can’t think of any problem I noticed during those fifteen days. Now I wonder why can’t we also have similar kind of services here in India? I know that Indian government is crazy and I just don’t have any hope at all but what about services offered by people? Our attitude for tourists? At one hand we are so proud of saying that as per Indian culture the guest is like God (अतिथि देवो भव्) and on the other hand I am very well aware of such incidents where foreign guests were not treated even like a human? And it happened only because they were our foreign guests.
I have a strong feeling that the people not working in tourism industry are very friendly and nice and all the tourists like them a lot but unfortunately a lot of people who are working in tourism industry are really strange. They just don’t have any sense of tourism or hospitality at all. Another unfortunate thing is that the tourists don’t really get to meet many local people and mostly they interact with their agents or other people working in tourism where they develop strange ideas about India and I am not surprised at all. I would also develop the same mentality if such thing happened with me.
I still don’t forget the way my driver in Himanchal Pradesh had cheated me for only Rs. 100. The amount was nothing for me but that experience of being cheated changed my whole idea about him and I started to hate him and was not feeling secured at all. If we just look at any online travel forum about India then the forums are full of negative stories about India. In fact there are warnings. I know that a few people might be offended with my thinking about tourism industry in India but to be honest I experienced the difference and whatever I am writing is a bitter truth.
We really need to realize that there are problems. If we don’t admit that there are problems then we just won’t be able to solve them. Internet is changing the world. Now we can easily learn a lot about the any place in the world without visiting. We can talk with people without meeting them, we can share ideas and if India is getting negative impression online then we are going to be in huge problem. People read about India before coming here. We need to change otherwise one thing is very sure that we are not right track and things are not going work this way for very long.
I know that everyone is not the same and there are so many people who have real passion for tourism and they do really nice work but it is very likely to get a bad experience in India. I hope we change such things soon.
The Value of a Guide: A Glimpse into India’s Tourism Reality
Something strange happened to me today that made me realize the current state of tourist guides in India. A few days ago, my brother, who works as an Italian tour escort, called to tell me that one of his friends from Varanasi wanted to start a travel agency and needed my advice. The friend had seen my website and was impressed, so I eventually got a call from him. He wanted my suggestions on unique tours that would attract foreign tourists to Varanasi.
I told him about the distinctive things I show my guests, such as roadside dental clinics, “bull shops,” “Facebook Baba,” and my special walking tours. I even briefly mentioned the concept of LGBT tourism. Everything was going well, and we had a great conversation until he suddenly told me he had a group of foreign tourists coming to Varanasi and needed a guide to show them around. I was about to tell him about the official Incredible India office in Varanasi, but what he said next truly shocked me.
He told me he had heard that tourist guides in Varanasi charge a fee for their work. I was stunned. “Where is a place that they don’t charge a fee?” I asked. He confidently replied that guides in cities like Agra and Delhi work for free. I asked him why anyone would work for free, and he didn’t know, but he was so sure because he had already used the services of such guides.
I knew exactly why some guides work for free. It’s because they are more interested in taking guests to shops than to tourist sites. I told him this, and he asked if there was no such thing in Varanasi. I said I was not aware of any guides who operate that way. I explained that there is a set rate decided by the Indian government, and in fact, Varanasi is the most expensive place to hire a guide because the tourism day begins before sunrise and ends after sunset, meaning guides are often paid for what amounts to three half-days.
Despite knowing that free guides take guests to shops instead of historical sites, he still insisted on finding one. I called my brother and asked if this practice was common in Delhi and Agra. He confirmed that yes, there are such guides who work for free. Once you’re with them, they start telling all kinds of wild stories and eventually take you to a shop where you end up buying something, and they get a commission. I couldn’t believe someone would think tourist guides are a free service.
His guests will be staying at the Radisson Hotel in Varanasi, a place only wealthy tourists can afford. I wondered why, after paying so much money and traveling so far, they would choose to meet a guide who works for free and takes them shopping instead of sightseeing. My brother and many other guides tell me the same story: they are still treated as “entertainers” who tell funny stories, not as respected professionals.
The Lack of Respect for Guides
There is no professional standard for tourist guides in India, and I see this firsthand. I am proud to be a tourist guide because it is a wonderful profession. I get to meet people from all over the world; I teach them about my culture, and they teach me about theirs. I make a good living by Indian standards. We are known for being punctual in a country where delays are common. We represent our country, which is a huge and important responsibility. The Ministry of Tourism even calls us “cultural ambassadors of India.”
I believe the government of India needs to take steps to ensure tourist guides are respected. During my training, I was told the Ministry of Tourism planned to start an annual award for the best guides from different regions to encourage professionalism and interest in the profession. The government’s plans sounded great, but when I look at what has actually been done for tourism, everything seems the same.
I recently visited the Incredible India website, the most famous tourism brand in the country, and was shocked to see how outdated it was. The importance of this brand is clear; if you google “India,” “India tourism,” or “tourism in India,” the first result is the Incredible India website. However, the information there seems from the time of World War II. They are still saluting the medal winners from the Commonwealth Games that happened years ago.
The site requests that tourists use only authorized guides but provides no list of them. There are awards mentioned, but no category for “Best Tourist Guide.” I don’t know when the government will take tourism seriously. Tourism already contributes 5.90% to our GDP, and this percentage could increase dramatically with just a few small changes. I don’t know when the government will start thinking about these issues, but they really need to.
Today, I feel genuinely happy and proud that my citizen report was taken seriously by the government and that action was finally taken against the corruption at Sarnath. When I visited the site to make a follow-up report, I was honestly shocked to see the scale of changes. Some of my colleagues had already mentioned improvements at Sarnath, but I was not expecting such a significant transformation. The first change I noticed was at the ticket counter itself. The staff was different—especially the main person involved in the earlier scam, who has since been transferred and later suspended (though I am not entirely sure about the suspension yet).
Sack is replaced with a metal box
New Tickets with Barcode and Unique Number
When I bought my ticket, I noticed the second major change: the ticket design. The new tickets now had a barcode and a unique serial number, making them traceable. The third change was at the gate, where the ticket checker was also a new face. He carefully tore the ticket into two parts, kept one half, and returned the other to me—exactly as the law requires. The fourth change came as a surprise. My camera was checked to determine whether it was for still photography or videography. Since filming requires an additional fee of Rs. 25, they were making sure nobody was shooting videos without paying.
new tickets with bar code and unique number
Metal Box Instead of Sack
The fifth and perhaps the most important change was that the old sack used to store tickets was gone. It had been replaced with a locked metal box. Once tickets went inside, there was no way to take them out and resell them. As I walked inside, I noticed more changes. There were more security guards on duty, and this time they were actively working. They patrolled continuously, stopped people from walking on the ruins, and even helped visitors. Everyone seemed alert and professional. The monument itself looked cleaner than I had ever seen it before. After spending about an hour walking around, I sat near the entrance gate to quietly observe the system. Every single ticket was checked, torn properly, and placed into the locked box. Another new rule was being enforced as well: people were not allowed to bring food inside. This has clearly helped reduce littering, keeping the site cleaner.
tickets were teard off
A Surprising Photograph
I wanted to document the new employee, but I wasn’t sure how to ask for his photo directly. So, I made a small plan with my friend. As I approached the exit, my friend pretended to ask me to get photographed in front of the entrance gate. While I was posing, something unexpected happened—the ticket checker himself called me over and asked to be photographed with me! He smiled, shook my hand, and posed happily for the photo. He had no idea that I was the person behind these changes. He didn’t know that his transfer to Varanasi was because of my report. He didn’t know that his chance of earning illegal money by reselling tickets was gone because of my work. I couldn’t help but laugh quietly to myself.
shaked hand happy cause he did not know that I was the who exposed the curroption
Feeling Proud
For a moment, I was nervous about being recognized, but none of the staff knew me since they were all new hires. In the end, I felt incredibly proud and relieved. Seeing real change on the ground made me believe in the power of speaking up.
Stupa at Sarnath
CNN-IBN broadcasted my follow-up report, and once again, I was reminded that raising your voice against corruption can make a difference.
Exposing Corruption in Varanasi: My Experience with CNN IBN
A few weeks ago, CNN IBN contacted me regarding corruption stories from Varanasi. They explained that they run a program called Citizen Journalist, where ordinary people step forward as reporters to expose crimes and irregularities. I was already familiar with the show, as it’s quite popular in India, and I decided to contribute. They had found me through my blog, where I had previously written about several corruption cases. Like many other Indian citizens, I had witnessed corruption at almost every level of society, but now I finally had a platform to bring these stories to light.
Babu, Erica, Chitra and I
The Stories I Shared
I provided CNN IBN with four stories:
Corruption in MNREGA implementation
Corruption in Varanasi’s drinking water supply
Irregularities in sewage treatment plants
Encroachment of sacred ponds and the scam in ticketing at Sarnath
To strengthen these stories, they asked me to find people directly affected by these corrupt practices. Through Lok Samiti, I identified villagers suffering under MNREGA corruption. I also contacted Shanti Lal Jain, a social worker who had worked extensively on Ganga issues, to speak about sewage treatment plant corruption. For the ponds, I reached out to a retired engineer who had used the Right to Information Act to reveal illegal encroachments and obtained a High Court directive ordering restoration of ponds captured after 1957. The last story, however, was something I had personally experienced countless times—the scam at the ticketing counter in Sarnath.
explaning the corruption
The Scam at Sarnath
At Sarnath’s excavation site, ticket collectors were pocketing entire tickets instead of tearing them in half as required by law. The untouched tickets were then resold, generating illegal revenue. This practice was carried out openly, with the involvement of government employees and even some tourist guides who received a share of the profits. I was repeatedly offered participation in this scam but had always refused. As a guide, I have many opportunities to earn through commissions, but I have always believed in honest work.
This time, however, I saw a chance to do something meaningful. Still, I was worried about the risks—ASI (Archaeological Survey of India) could easily retaliate by canceling my tourist guide license. To be safe, I consulted my brother, who also works in the tourism industry. His advice was blunt but motivating: “Go and expose them.”
Collecting Evidence
CNN IBN asked me to gather proof before the crew arrived. My friend Babu and I went to Sarnath, where we filmed ticket collectors directly dropping tickets into a sack instead of tearing them. Later, when the CNN IBN crew reached Varanasi, they worked on the other stories first. Each story created an impact: the woman affected by MNREGA corruption received her salary, and the administration began looking into pond restoration.
new tickets with bar code and unique number
For the Sarnath story, I needed volunteers to act as tourists. I advertised on Couchsurfing and eventually chose a British couple staying at my guesthouse. On the filming day, we staged a visit. From a distance, the crew captured footage of the collectors keeping tickets whole. When we had enough evidence, we confronted them on camera. As soon as the ticket collector saw the camera, he hurriedly tore the ticket and returned half to the volunteer, trying to cover his tracks. We immediately checked the sack and found over 500 fresh tickets—clear evidence of resale.
volunteer Erica
The Confrontation
Soon after, an ASI employee from the ticket counter arrived. When questioned, he gave absurd explanations, claiming Sri Lankan tourists and young couples often discarded tickets, which staff collected and tore later. These excuses were laughable, especially since I had witnessed them reselling tickets myself. Later, a female ASI employee openly admitted on camera that the scam had been happening for years and that every government employee at the excavation site was involved. This confirmation gave me immense relief and confidence. We also attempted to speak to the officer in charge of Sarnath, but he literally ran away upon seeing us.
the officer in charge’s office
Public Support and Aftermath
Filming at the entrance drew large crowds. At one point, I was surrounded by nearly 100 people chanting slogans against corruption. Their support gave me strength in what was otherwise a very tense moment. The next morning, every local newspaper reported the story, though none mentioned me or CNN IBN directly. The officer in charge claimed ignorance and promised action, which I knew was just a cover-up. Nevertheless, I urged CNN IBN to escalate the matter to ASI’s regional office in Patna and the head office in Delhi.
filming
I now feel more secure, especially since an ASI officer herself admitted to the scam on record. For me, the greatest reward was not media recognition, but the overwhelming public support and the satisfaction of exposing a system that had been cheating tourists and staining the reputation of Sarnath for years.
I recently had the special opportunity to visit Tarun Bharat Sangh (TBS) and receive training on environmental issues, especially rivers, directly from Mr. Rajendra Singh. He is a member of the Ganga Basin Authority and has also been involved in the Coca-Cola issue in Varanasi. My colleague, Mr. Nandlal Master, who leads the Coke movement in Varanasi, introduced me to him. Mr. Singh was deeply concerned about how the Government of India was handling the Ganga. He strongly advocated for a proper river policy, greater transparency, and active community involvement. I share his belief that communities must be directly involved in nonprofit and environmental projects.
wall paintings at TBS
Our Group at a TBS Work Site
Mr. Singh wanted to start a campaign in Varanasi and needed support from local communities and organizations. He asked Mr. Nandlal Master to mobilize people, and Nandlal requested me to organize the boat rower community. Together we arranged two meetings between the boat rowers and Mr. Singh. Seeing our dedication, he invited us to attend a five-day training program at TBS in Alwar, Rajasthan. We formed three groups of five participants each, including boat rowers, my team, and members of Nandlal Master’s NGO.
My whole group
TBS funded our train travel and provided lodging and food during our stay. On arrival, we were welcomed by Mr. Kanhaiya Lal Gurjar, the General Secretary of TBS, who had been entrusted with our training. Our sessions included both classroom learning and site visits. The first session introduced us to TBS, its work, the local geography, and its people. What fascinated me most was their success in reviving five dead rivers by educating communities about traditional ecological knowledge and sustainable water use.
A Small Dam Called Johad
Mr. Gurjar explained that these rivers had dried up because communities had forgotten their own ecological wisdom and had become dependent solely on government systems. TBS built small dams called Johads to ensure water remained in rivers throughout the year. To instill responsibility, they asked communities to contribute 25 percent of project costs, even though TBS had enough funds to cover everything. This model helped create a sense of ownership and accountability.
small dam calld Johad
This River Has Water All Year
The Johads not only restored rivers but also recharged groundwater. People living far from rivers started finding water in their dried wells again, which strengthened support for TBS. Villagers from distant areas began approaching them to replicate the model. I found this approach inspiring and even used a similar system in the Chance India Program, which worked successfully.
This river has water all year long
Such Pools Once Dry Are Now Full of Water
Of course, challenges remained. Without accurate maps, TBS first had to conduct extensive surveys of ponds, wells, and canals before deciding where to build dams. With this data, they developed strategic plans. The emphasis on combining traditional knowledge with modern planning was eye-opening.
such pools used to be dry but now they are full with water
Community Money is Always Involved in TBS Projects
In ancient times, communities were careful in their water use, adjusting irrigation depending on rainfall. For example, in years of low rain, they reduced water usage from wells. Today, such practices are disappearing, with people even growing water-intensive crops like rice in unsuitable areas. Mr. Gurjar emphasized that education and awareness are essential if we want to prevent misuse of water resources.
community money is always involved in TBS’s projects
Mr. Gurjar Explaining a Site
For three days, Mr. Gurjar took us to project sites. I was amazed to see rivers full of clean water, often in remote areas without roads or human settlements. The sheer dedication of TBS left a lasting impression on me.
Mr. Gurjar explaining a site
Mr. Singh Training Us
Finally, Mr. Singh returned, and we spent two days learning directly from him. His first class on river ecosystems felt like a blessing; I left feeling deeply informed. His second session was about the Ganga and the river policy he had been drafting. He spoke with incredible depth, knowing every tributary of the Ganga and its ecological importance.
Mr. Singh training us
Mr. Singh and I
We spent several hours in discussion with him. The draft river policy, developed through suggestions from thousands across India, was comprehensive and inspiring. He patiently answered all our questions. During the training, we also planted over 300 trees together on the TBS campus, which was already full of greenery.
Mr. Singh and I
Mr. Singh Training Us
After five days of training, I felt much more informed about river ecology, especially concerning the Ganga. The experience has motivated me to stay involved in this cause, and I would love to work with Mr. Singh and TBS again in the future.
