Category Archives: Studies in India

Project for the guide training program

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After completing the classroom teaching and orientation tour, I’m now set to begin fieldwork in my local town for the next two months. Initially, I was eager to explore LGBT tourism as my project because it’s a relatively untapped area in India and would allow me to connect my NGO work and research on the LGBT community with this project. However, I had to reconsider due to advice from friends and others who cautioned against it. They pointed out that a professor’s approval can often depend on personal preferences.

Given that LGBT tourism is a new and controversial concept in India and faces significant opposition, there was a risk that my professor might not support it. This seemed plausible given the widespread negativity toward the LGBT community in India. So, I decided to shift my focus to ecotourism. I initially planned to promote the rock paintings and waterfalls in Mirzapur district. My research showed that Mirzapur, with its untapped potential for ecotourism, had no existing tours being marketed. However, just two days before I was supposed to finalize my project with the institute, I read a news article about three foreigners being robbed at a well-known waterfall in Mirzapur.

Since some parts of Mirzapur are Naxalite-affected, this raised significant concerns about safety. Promoting a destination with such risks would be irresponsible. With my initial plan off the table, my only remaining option was to focus on Benares, which I had hoped to avoid. Previous projects on Benares have mainly covered heritage, culture, and mythology—topics I wasn’t particularly excited about. Tourists today are different from those of the past; they’re more interested in social issues, society, and politics rather than just history. Thus, I chose to focus on Benares with the topic “Benares: A Place for Everyone.” My professor approved of this subject, noting that it was unique and more engaging than a history-focused project.

My interest in this subject stems from Varanasi’s remarkable diversity. Although I’m not entirely sure if it’s the most diverse city in India, it certainly has a rich mix of cultures and religions. I plan to explore how Benares serves as a significant place for Hindus, Muslims, Buddhists, Jains, Sikhs, and Christians. Despite the small Christian population, there are several old churches that deserve attention. I also want to highlight how Benares, traditionally known as a city where Hindus come to die, has transformed into a vibrant hub for migrants seeking employment and a new life. This shift from a city of death to a city of life is a fascinating development that I want to investigate.

I have a lot of ideas for this project, but I’m unsure about the scope and how well I can incorporate my thoughts into the report. Nonetheless, I’m excited about the opportunity and looking forward to diving into this diverse and dynamic subject.

Guide training program – week 7

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The seventh week of the guide training program wrapped up with an orientation tour through Agra, Jaipur, and Delhi. Our first stop was Agra, where we visited four major monuments: the Taj Mahal, the Red Fort, Sikandara (the Tomb of Akbar), and Itmad-ud-Daula. With one guide for fifty participants, navigating Agra was quite the experience. The water there was notably sour, so we were advised to stick to bottled water. The city was bustling with touts constantly trying to sell something near the monuments, and we were taken to several tourist shops that were impressively large.

These shops, which also provided our meals, saw the tour as an opportunity to showcase their products. Although the items were significantly overpriced—often ten times the market rate—the quality was excellent. It was a lucrative deal for them to host two hundred tour guides at once. In Jaipur, we visited Jaigarh Fort, Amber Fort, City Palace, and Jantar Mantar. The water quality in Jaipur was as poor as in Agra. While I enjoyed most of the monuments, the City Palace stood out as particularly commercial. Only a small part of the palace was open to visitors; access to other areas required extra fees, which varied based on the visitor’s profile.

The City Palace also had its own licensing system, which meant that even government-approved tour guides had to either hire a City Palace guide or pay additional fees. The City Palace allowed various events, including birthday celebrations, for a price, and even offered the option to have the king himself welcome guests. Delhi, as expected, was chaotic. I learned that TGFI (Tour Guide Federation of India) had instructed local guides not to train us during our Delhi visit. Consequently, our institute struggled to find a guide, eventually having to hire a monument guide. TGFI’s opposition to our training program was evident, as they had previously sued the government over it. Their protest was a clear sign of their dissatisfaction.

The shops in Delhi, unlike those in Jaipur and Agra, were less accommodating. Although they organized our meals, the overall experience did not match the quality and hospitality we encountered in the other cities. Despite the challenges, the tour was valuable. I did not gain extensive knowledge due to the high guide-to-participant ratio, but the experience was still worthwhile. Looking ahead, I plan to start my career in Varanasi after obtaining my license. I intend to study the city thoroughly before considering work in other locations. Eventually, I may explore other cities, hire guides, and expand my knowledge to enhance my proficiency as a tour guide.

Guide training program – week 6

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The final week of classroom teaching has concluded, and it was a diverse and insightful week. We covered a range of topics including Jaipur, Indo-Islamic architecture, emergency procedures, gems and jewelry, Jainism, the business history of India, and project report preparation. While all the classes were informative, the one on “Things to Do in Any Emergency” stood out as the most memorable. The class was delivered by a retired Air India air hostess, and her approach was refreshingly candid.

She covered essential topics such as medical emergencies, sex, homosexuality, HIV/AIDS, and other STIs. Her openness about these subjects was unprecedented in our training. She provided practical advice on what to do if a tourist makes inappropriate sexual advances. She emphasized that while it is ultimately our choice whether to engage in such activities, if we decide to proceed, using condoms is crucial to reduce the risk of STI transmission. Her focus on HIV/AIDS was particularly notable; she shared her own experiences from her career in the service sector, highlighting the importance of safe practices.

Her discussion on homosexuality was equally enlightening. Although I was already familiar with the basics, many in the class found it new and eye-opening. She encouraged participants to embrace their sexuality and communicate openly with their families. She also discussed recent legal advancements, such as the High Court judgment supporting LGBTQ+ rights in India. She criticized the outdated belief that homosexuality is a disease and debunked the misconception that marriage to an opposite-sex partner could “cure” it.

The air hostess’s candidness about such sensitive topics was striking. In a setting where discussing sex and sexuality is often taboo, her willingness to address these issues was both bold and appreciated. The lecture was engaging and left a significant impact on everyone. On the final day of the week, all participants gathered in the institute’s auditorium for a certificate presentation. This certificate will be useful for engaging with government officials regarding our projects. Female participants were specially acknowledged on stage to encourage their participation, with the institute stressing the need for more female tour guides in the Indian tourism industry.

Overall, the week was both educational and inspiring, providing us with valuable knowledge and practical skills for our future careers.

Guide training program – week 5

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I’ve completed five weeks of training in Gwalior, and now only one more week of classroom sessions remains before we head out for the tour. This past week was quite engaging. We covered a range of topics including Indian Buddhism, Indian archaeology and rock painting, conservation, Kailash Mansarovar, Ayurveda, the Taj Mahal, Indian classical music, vocal and dance, virtual reality in tourism, and travel legislation. Among these, the classes on Indian Buddhism and the Taj Mahal were the highlights, while the sessions on conservation and Indian classical music were less enjoyable.

The conservation class was particularly challenging. The lecturer spoke at an incredibly fast pace for two continuous hours, covering slide after slide without much opportunity for interaction or questions. He even insisted that we use the restroom before the class began and kept the door locked to avoid disruptions. It was overwhelming and left little room for engagement or clarification. Similarly, the Indian classical music, vocal, and dance class was a bit of a letdown. While the performances were entertaining—featuring live music and dance—the lecture itself was poorly structured.

We were introduced to complex concepts and ragas without sufficient foundational knowledge, making it difficult to follow and understand. On the other hand, the class on Indian Buddhism was one of the best I’ve experienced. The lecturer, a professor of Buddhism from Delhi University, brought a unique perspective. Although he was initially scheduled to talk about Indian Buddhism, he quickly shifted focus to broader topics like Indian politics, social issues, and personal insights. His engaging discussion included fascinating tidbits, such as the fact that over 40% of heart attacks in the US and Canada occur on Mondays due to work pressure. His lecture was both informative and entertaining, and his candidness made it particularly enjoyable.

Our upcoming tour schedule is now finalized. The classroom sessions at the Gwalior center will conclude on the 18th, and we’ll travel to Agra the evening of the same day. Our training in Agra will take place on the 19th and 20th, with a day off on the 21st. We’ll then proceed to Jaipur for training on the 22nd and 23rd, followed by another day off on the 24th. Our final training sessions will be held in Delhi on the 25th and 26th. During this tour, we’ll need to arrange our own lodging and meals, but the institute will provide transportation and bring in experts for our training.

Guide training program – week 4

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The fourth week of training is now complete, with just two more weeks to go before our tour of Delhi, Agra, and Jaipur, followed by fieldwork in Benares. This week was also quite engaging, featuring lectures on various topics including the travel industry in India, Indian art, Varanasi, temples, Indo-Islamic architecture, cultural differences, epigraphy and numismatics, the temples of Bateshwar, Indian classical music, and tourism in Himachal Pradesh. Among these, I found the lectures on epigraphy and numismatics, the temples of Bateshwar, and tourism in Himachal Pradesh particularly fascinating.

**Epigraphy and Numismatics:**

The lecture on epigraphy and numismatics was both enlightening and intriguing. We delved into the study of inscriptions and coins, which provided valuable insights into India’s historical and cultural evolution. Understanding these aspects can greatly enhance our appreciation of India’s rich heritage.

Nandan in Bramhi (the oldest script)

**Temples of Bateshwar:**

The presentation by Mr. Mohammad K.K., the Superintendent Archaeologist at ASI, was truly remarkable. He shared a compelling slideshow of his work in Muraina, Madhya Pradesh, where he and his team uncovered and reconstructed a group of over 200 temples that had been buried underground for over a thousand years due to an earthquake. The area, once controlled by dangerous Naxalites, was finally accessible thanks to the efforts of Mr. K.K. and his team, who collaborated with locals and even met with the Naxalites to gain their permission. The dedication and meticulous work involved in reconstructing these temples using both original and new materials were awe-inspiring. While this may not directly relate to our tour guiding profession, Mr. K.K.’s passion and commitment to his work were truly impressive.

This is how Bateshwar temples were found

**Tourism in Himachal Pradesh:**

The lecture on tourism in Himachal Pradesh was another highlight. It provided an overview of the region’s tourism potential, highlighting its natural beauty and cultural significance. This topic is particularly relevant as it offers insights into how diverse destinations in India can be promoted and appreciated.

**Indian Classical Music:**

On the other hand, the lecture on Indian classical music was challenging. The professor’s approach was rather advanced, expecting participants to sing and engage with complex concepts without covering the basics. This was reminiscent of the previous week’s astrology lecture, where the content was also quite specialized. It might have been more effective if foundational concepts were introduced first.

**Indo-Islamic Architecture:**

The lecture on Indo-Islamic architecture was delivered by an ASI expert and included a surprising and somewhat contentious topic: the ban of foreign escorts at Indian monuments. According to the lecturer, foreign escorts often bypass local guides and do not bring tourist groups to local shops, which affects the livelihood of local guides who rely on commissions and tips. This issue highlights the economic impact of tourism practices and the importance of supporting local communities.

Overall, this week has been rich in diverse content, offering both inspiring and challenging experiences. I’m looking forward to applying what I’ve learned during the upcoming tour and fieldwork in Benares.

Guide training program – week 3

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Half of the training is now complete. I have three weeks of classroom instruction and one week of orientation tour remaining before I begin my fieldwork. I am very excited about this next phase. I’ve discussed my fieldwork topic, LGBT tourism, with other participants, and they’ve raised concerns that the institute may not approve it. This is troubling, but I’m determined to address it. I’m gathering basic information about LGBT tourism to present a strong case to my professor for approving my topic.

If my proposed subject isn’t approved, I’m considering focusing on either eco-tourism or rural tourism. I’m not interested in traditional Indian tourism subjects like heritage or culture, although I will need to learn about these topics and include information on the heritage and culture of Benares in my research. Specializing in LGBT tourism would be unique in India, and it would be a significant advantage if the institute accepts it. If LGBT tourism is not approved, I’d like to explore eco-tourism in Mirzapur district. Located just 75 km from Benares, Mirzapur is rich in natural beauty.

Our professors discussed the caves, cave temples, and rock paintings of Mirzapur, which I find fascinating. Despite its lack of promotion as a tourist destination, Mirzapur offers many opportunities with its waterfalls, dams, rivers, lakes, and hills. I’m considering starting trekking and camping tours there. Even if my LGBT tourism subject is approved, I would still promote and work in Mirzapur. Its rural setting offers great potential for rural tourism as well. I’m very enthusiastic about this project.

This week featured some engaging lectures. One guest speaker, Mr. Pandya, a tour guide who won the Best Tour Guide Award in 2008, shared his experiences. He is reportedly the highest-paid tour guide in India. Unlike most tour guides who stay in budget hotels while their clients enjoy luxury accommodations, Mr. Pandya stays in the same five-star hotels as his clients. His high rates and personal rules mean he only takes on five or six assignments a year. He charges $100 per day, which doesn’t seem excessive to me, as I sometimes earn that much working as a translator.

He also emphasized the importance of improving our accents, noting that while Indians have their own English, we should aim to speak the version used by tourists. I also learned a new term this week: “Chabbi,” which means commission in the tourism sector. A Muslim professor, an expert on tourism in Jammu & Kashmir, discussed how he initially avoided taking commissions from shopkeepers due to religious reasons but has since accepted it as part of the global tourism system. He mentioned that in some countries, it’s referred to as profit-sharing, which can be a more acceptable term for Muslims. He also noted that if he doesn’t bring clients to travel agency stores, he risks losing his job.

We had other fascinating lectures this week on topics such as tourism offices in India and abroad, Islam, female foreign tourists in India, the condition of women in medieval Indian history, eco-tourism, water tourism, adventure tourism, India’s architectural heritage, the Kamasutra, and Khajuraho sculptures. I asked the professor discussing the Kamasutra whether it addresses homosexuality, and he mentioned that homosexuality has been present for a long time, even noting that Babar had male partners. He also remarked that Afghanistan currently has a strong gay culture. Additionally, during a lecture on Islam by a professor from Jamia Millia Islamia University, a participant inquired about the condition of women in Islam.

The professor responded that the condition of women is poor across all religions. When another participant pointed out the relatively liberal treatment of women in Hindu society, the professor simply smiled and referenced the Agni Pariksha of Sita, then left the classroom abruptly. Overall, I’m thoroughly enjoying the program and looking forward to the remaining four weeks of training.

Guide training program – week 1 and week 2

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The first two weeks of the guide training program are complete, and I am genuinely impressed with the quality of education here. The institute is excellent, and the professors are both helpful and friendly. On the first day, we were introduced to the institute and its staff. They also briefed us on swine flu, including its symptoms, and advised us to take care of our health. If anyone exhibits symptoms, there is a designated department at the institute to assist them by arranging visits to a government hospital.

The professors here are exceptional. Many of them teach at foreign universities annually. This is a stark contrast to my previous experience with strict teachers at my previous schools and university. Here, the professors are very approachable and use a lot of technology. They all have laptops and use projectors to present PowerPoint slides. Initially, the training was to be conducted at the institute, but due to a lack of available air-conditioned rooms—occupied by other programs—the venue was changed. We are now using a hotel conference room with air conditioning.

Participants are divided into four batches: A, B, C, and D. Batches A and B attend sessions from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., while batches C and D have sessions from 2:15 p.m. to 6:15 p.m. I am in the second batch. Over 95% of the participants are experienced unauthorized guides, and I am the only one in my batch without prior experience with a travel agency. Some participants are over 55 years old.

Before each session, the professors encourage participants to share their knowledge if they disagree with any content, as they acknowledge that we may have more information in certain areas. Our professors are not only from IITTM but also from various universities and institutions across India. Each day features a different professor lecturing on a new subject. The institute emphasizes that a tour guide is a living encyclopedia and therefore invites experts from diverse fields to provide comprehensive training.

While our training focuses on North India, we have had professors discussing other regions, such as the West and South. Most classes have been engaging, but two stood out as particularly unusual. One was on Indian astrology, which could have been interesting if it had covered the basics. Instead, the professor delved into advanced topics and was more focused on marketing his services, offering his business card and inviting us to his office in Rajasthan for personal consultations.

Another class, on menu planning in hotels, was less relevant to our training. It would have been more interesting if it had covered hotel culture, but instead, it focused on how hotels plan their menus and generate revenue from their restaurants. None of the participants found this class particularly useful or relevant to our guide training.

We are receiving instruction on a wide range of topics, including different segments of tourism, religions, cultures, cuisine, IT in tourism, and the tourism industry both in India and abroad. One segment that particularly intrigued me was LGBT tourism. I had not been familiar with this aspect of tourism before, but it seems fascinating. Given that no other students are focusing on this topic, I see it as a unique opportunity to align my research with the guide training program.

The professors are also addressing various social issues, such as the Coca-Cola controversy, environmental concerns, water issues, and women’s rights. In a class on IT in tourism, we covered blogging. Although I already knew about blogging, emailing, and web design, I inquired about search engine optimization. The professor did not address it, likely because most participants were unfamiliar with the Internet and he did not want to delve into advanced topics in that context. Nonetheless, I enjoyed the class.

The program coordinator mentioned that we should be proud of the training provided, noting that previous programs had only organized around 20 classes, whereas this year’s program includes at least 75 classes on various subjects. I am thoroughly enjoying the training and am eagerly anticipating my research on LGBT tourism in Benares.

Guide training program – introduction

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I arrived in Gwalior today to start the tour guide training program. Since I only received the information about the training 10 days ago, I wasn’t able to arrange my accommodation in advance. Upon arrival, I stayed in a dharamshala for the night. I had reached out to a friend in Delhi who is also part of the program about finding a rental apartment in Gwalior. He arrived today with a friend who is pursuing a PhD in Urdu at Jawaharlal Nehru University.

My friend, Prem, had contacted someone in Gwalior to help us find an apartment. After arriving, he met his contact, who showed us a few options near the training venue. We ultimately selected a 2 BHK apartment close to the institute. While we have some mats and basic household items, there is a significant issue with the water here. The tap water isn’t safe to drink, and there are no shops selling branded bottled water. I’m confident we’ll find a solution soon.

On the bright side, I’ve purchased an internet data card, so I’ll have 24-hour internet access while in Gwalior. My training begins tomorrow, and I’m very excited to get started!

My bed for next two months

My bed for next two months

Research with laborers and construction workers

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Adam has previously visited Varanasi to study Hindi. During this visit, he wanted to speak with construction workers, including those who work independently, those employed by agencies, those under contractors, and those working for the government. I noticed a construction site in my neighborhood and thought it would be a good opportunity to talk to some workers there, so I took Adam along and we spoke with two of them. Adam asked them several questions, but what intrigued me most was their response about training for laborers.

Adam inquired if they knew of any places in Benares where training is provided to laborers or skilled workers, and they mentioned a government training center in Chunar. However, neither of the workers had attended the center, nor were they interested in going. When asked why, they explained that, as they are poor, they prefer to work and earn money rather than stay somewhere without earning. They find it more practical to learn on the job while making some income. Both workers said that nearly all laborers start by carrying bricks or assisting skilled workers at construction sites, eventually becoming skilled laborers themselves.

None of them were satisfied with their earnings. They mentioned that laborers make only Rs. 120 ($2.50) per day, while skilled workers earn about Rs. 200 ($4) per day, which seems quite inadequate considering the rising cost of living in India. Additionally, when working under a contractor, they often receive even less because the contractor takes a cut. The workers also noted that most laborers in Benares are from Bihar or nearby villages. Adam asked about compensation for medical expenses in case of an injury. They said that, typically, contractors pressure the landowner to cover medical costs.

If the landowner agrees, they pay; otherwise, the contractor handles it. However, workers usually face difficulties getting any additional support from either the contractor or the landowner. Another interesting point was their explanation of why women are not often skilled laborers in India. They mentioned that skilled labor work can be risky, such as climbing scaffolding supported only by bamboo. I find it puzzling because Indian women often engage in risky activities like cooking over kerosene stoves, which can lead to accidents like LPG cylinder explosions. Women also face risks from forced marriages and dowry harassment, which seem more dangerous than climbing scaffolding.

Adam is also looking to speak with contractors. I know a few in my area and will introduce them to him. Additionally, Adam needed a recommendation letter from the Varanasi Development Authority (VDA) to facilitate his grant approval. We visited the VDA office, where an officer directed us to meet with the VDA Chairman. The following day, we met the Chairman and discussed Adam’s research. Although the VDA doesn’t engage heavily in construction due to limited funds, the Chairman agreed to provide the recommendation letter. Adam drafted the letter as requested, and the Chairman asked his typist to type it up. It took over an hour to type just one page, but we eventually received the important document.

The VDA also promised to offer any future assistance Adam might need, which was surprising as it’s uncommon for us to expect government help. Regardless, we secured what we needed, which is what truly matters.

Research on secular philosophers and cremationists

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Adam, a PhD candidate at the University of Chicago, returned to Benares and stayed at my place again. This year, he aimed to conduct preliminary research for his upcoming study in India. Although he wanted to study Hindi, he had decided to go to Mussoorie for that purpose. Adam was interested in two main subjects: laborers at construction sites and Doams (the individuals who work at cremation sites). Accompanying him this year was his fiancée, Megan, who is conducting research for her school, Smith College, in Boston, on secular Indian philosophers. She was looking to gather data on philosophers active between 1850 and 1940.

Megan had initially gone to the University of Mysore but had not found any useful resources due to a lack of assistance. Frustrated, she left Mysore and came to Benares with hopes of better luck at BHU. She wanted to visit the BHU library and consult with professors from the philosophy department. I enlisted the help of a friend from BHU, who guided us through the university. Our first stop was the International Students Center, where we met an officer who directed us to the head of the central library.

When we met with the head of the library, both Adam and Megan were impressed by the facilities at BHU, noting that the library was far superior to that of the University of Mysore. They praised the helpfulness of the staff at BHU. Megan was asked to write a formal request for permission to use the library, and after submitting it, we were granted access to the books. We toured the library with a few staff members who showed us around. Megan found several valuable books for her research, but unfortunately, the books were too old and fragile to be photocopied.

Instead, she had to request digital copies. The library staff asked us to return in five days to collect the digital formats. Afterward, we visited the philosophy department and met a professor who was more interested in showcasing his own work than in discussing Megan’s research. He spent an hour talking about his books before finally asking what Megan needed. She explained her research, and he suggested she return the next day to explore the philosophy department’s library, which he claimed contained relevant books.

Returning home, Megan felt positive about the day’s progress, especially after the promising experience at BHU, which contrasted sharply with her frustrating visit to the University of Mysore. I was pleased for Megan’s successful research day. Adam, meanwhile, wanted to interview a Doam, so I took him to Harishchandra Ghat and introduced him to a contact I had met while working on CBC’s documentary *Myths and Might*. We met at the ghat, and he took us to the electric crematorium where he worked. This was my first visit to an electric burner, and it turned out to be the perfect setting for Adam’s interview.

Over the next few hours, Adam and Megan asked the Doam various questions about his personal life, social status, and experiences of discrimination. To show his appreciation, Adam wanted to give a gift, so I asked the Doam about the nearest sweet shop. The Doam explained that they preferred alcohol over sweets, so we ended up buying him a bottle of whiskey instead.