Category Archives: Business

Guide training program – week 5

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I’ve completed five weeks of training in Gwalior, and now only one more week of classroom sessions remains before we head out for the tour. This past week was quite engaging. We covered a range of topics including Indian Buddhism, Indian archaeology and rock painting, conservation, Kailash Mansarovar, Ayurveda, the Taj Mahal, Indian classical music, vocal and dance, virtual reality in tourism, and travel legislation. Among these, the classes on Indian Buddhism and the Taj Mahal were the highlights, while the sessions on conservation and Indian classical music were less enjoyable.

The conservation class was particularly challenging. The lecturer spoke at an incredibly fast pace for two continuous hours, covering slide after slide without much opportunity for interaction or questions. He even insisted that we use the restroom before the class began and kept the door locked to avoid disruptions. It was overwhelming and left little room for engagement or clarification. Similarly, the Indian classical music, vocal, and dance class was a bit of a letdown. While the performances were entertaining—featuring live music and dance—the lecture itself was poorly structured.

We were introduced to complex concepts and ragas without sufficient foundational knowledge, making it difficult to follow and understand. On the other hand, the class on Indian Buddhism was one of the best I’ve experienced. The lecturer, a professor of Buddhism from Delhi University, brought a unique perspective. Although he was initially scheduled to talk about Indian Buddhism, he quickly shifted focus to broader topics like Indian politics, social issues, and personal insights. His engaging discussion included fascinating tidbits, such as the fact that over 40% of heart attacks in the US and Canada occur on Mondays due to work pressure. His lecture was both informative and entertaining, and his candidness made it particularly enjoyable.

Our upcoming tour schedule is now finalized. The classroom sessions at the Gwalior center will conclude on the 18th, and we’ll travel to Agra the evening of the same day. Our training in Agra will take place on the 19th and 20th, with a day off on the 21st. We’ll then proceed to Jaipur for training on the 22nd and 23rd, followed by another day off on the 24th. Our final training sessions will be held in Delhi on the 25th and 26th. During this tour, we’ll need to arrange our own lodging and meals, but the institute will provide transportation and bring in experts for our training.

Guide training program – week 4

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The fourth week of training is now complete, with just two more weeks to go before our tour of Delhi, Agra, and Jaipur, followed by fieldwork in Benares. This week was also quite engaging, featuring lectures on various topics including the travel industry in India, Indian art, Varanasi, temples, Indo-Islamic architecture, cultural differences, epigraphy and numismatics, the temples of Bateshwar, Indian classical music, and tourism in Himachal Pradesh. Among these, I found the lectures on epigraphy and numismatics, the temples of Bateshwar, and tourism in Himachal Pradesh particularly fascinating.

**Epigraphy and Numismatics:**

The lecture on epigraphy and numismatics was both enlightening and intriguing. We delved into the study of inscriptions and coins, which provided valuable insights into India’s historical and cultural evolution. Understanding these aspects can greatly enhance our appreciation of India’s rich heritage.

Nandan in Bramhi (the oldest script)

**Temples of Bateshwar:**

The presentation by Mr. Mohammad K.K., the Superintendent Archaeologist at ASI, was truly remarkable. He shared a compelling slideshow of his work in Muraina, Madhya Pradesh, where he and his team uncovered and reconstructed a group of over 200 temples that had been buried underground for over a thousand years due to an earthquake. The area, once controlled by dangerous Naxalites, was finally accessible thanks to the efforts of Mr. K.K. and his team, who collaborated with locals and even met with the Naxalites to gain their permission. The dedication and meticulous work involved in reconstructing these temples using both original and new materials were awe-inspiring. While this may not directly relate to our tour guiding profession, Mr. K.K.’s passion and commitment to his work were truly impressive.

This is how Bateshwar temples were found

**Tourism in Himachal Pradesh:**

The lecture on tourism in Himachal Pradesh was another highlight. It provided an overview of the region’s tourism potential, highlighting its natural beauty and cultural significance. This topic is particularly relevant as it offers insights into how diverse destinations in India can be promoted and appreciated.

**Indian Classical Music:**

On the other hand, the lecture on Indian classical music was challenging. The professor’s approach was rather advanced, expecting participants to sing and engage with complex concepts without covering the basics. This was reminiscent of the previous week’s astrology lecture, where the content was also quite specialized. It might have been more effective if foundational concepts were introduced first.

**Indo-Islamic Architecture:**

The lecture on Indo-Islamic architecture was delivered by an ASI expert and included a surprising and somewhat contentious topic: the ban of foreign escorts at Indian monuments. According to the lecturer, foreign escorts often bypass local guides and do not bring tourist groups to local shops, which affects the livelihood of local guides who rely on commissions and tips. This issue highlights the economic impact of tourism practices and the importance of supporting local communities.

Overall, this week has been rich in diverse content, offering both inspiring and challenging experiences. I’m looking forward to applying what I’ve learned during the upcoming tour and fieldwork in Benares.

Guide training program – week 3

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Half of the training is now complete. I have three weeks of classroom instruction and one week of orientation tour remaining before I begin my fieldwork. I am very excited about this next phase. I’ve discussed my fieldwork topic, LGBT tourism, with other participants, and they’ve raised concerns that the institute may not approve it. This is troubling, but I’m determined to address it. I’m gathering basic information about LGBT tourism to present a strong case to my professor for approving my topic.

If my proposed subject isn’t approved, I’m considering focusing on either eco-tourism or rural tourism. I’m not interested in traditional Indian tourism subjects like heritage or culture, although I will need to learn about these topics and include information on the heritage and culture of Benares in my research. Specializing in LGBT tourism would be unique in India, and it would be a significant advantage if the institute accepts it. If LGBT tourism is not approved, I’d like to explore eco-tourism in Mirzapur district. Located just 75 km from Benares, Mirzapur is rich in natural beauty.

Our professors discussed the caves, cave temples, and rock paintings of Mirzapur, which I find fascinating. Despite its lack of promotion as a tourist destination, Mirzapur offers many opportunities with its waterfalls, dams, rivers, lakes, and hills. I’m considering starting trekking and camping tours there. Even if my LGBT tourism subject is approved, I would still promote and work in Mirzapur. Its rural setting offers great potential for rural tourism as well. I’m very enthusiastic about this project.

This week featured some engaging lectures. One guest speaker, Mr. Pandya, a tour guide who won the Best Tour Guide Award in 2008, shared his experiences. He is reportedly the highest-paid tour guide in India. Unlike most tour guides who stay in budget hotels while their clients enjoy luxury accommodations, Mr. Pandya stays in the same five-star hotels as his clients. His high rates and personal rules mean he only takes on five or six assignments a year. He charges $100 per day, which doesn’t seem excessive to me, as I sometimes earn that much working as a translator.

He also emphasized the importance of improving our accents, noting that while Indians have their own English, we should aim to speak the version used by tourists. I also learned a new term this week: “Chabbi,” which means commission in the tourism sector. A Muslim professor, an expert on tourism in Jammu & Kashmir, discussed how he initially avoided taking commissions from shopkeepers due to religious reasons but has since accepted it as part of the global tourism system. He mentioned that in some countries, it’s referred to as profit-sharing, which can be a more acceptable term for Muslims. He also noted that if he doesn’t bring clients to travel agency stores, he risks losing his job.

We had other fascinating lectures this week on topics such as tourism offices in India and abroad, Islam, female foreign tourists in India, the condition of women in medieval Indian history, eco-tourism, water tourism, adventure tourism, India’s architectural heritage, the Kamasutra, and Khajuraho sculptures. I asked the professor discussing the Kamasutra whether it addresses homosexuality, and he mentioned that homosexuality has been present for a long time, even noting that Babar had male partners. He also remarked that Afghanistan currently has a strong gay culture. Additionally, during a lecture on Islam by a professor from Jamia Millia Islamia University, a participant inquired about the condition of women in Islam.

The professor responded that the condition of women is poor across all religions. When another participant pointed out the relatively liberal treatment of women in Hindu society, the professor simply smiled and referenced the Agni Pariksha of Sita, then left the classroom abruptly. Overall, I’m thoroughly enjoying the program and looking forward to the remaining four weeks of training.

Guide training program – week 1 and week 2

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The first two weeks of the guide training program are complete, and I am genuinely impressed with the quality of education here. The institute is excellent, and the professors are both helpful and friendly. On the first day, we were introduced to the institute and its staff. They also briefed us on swine flu, including its symptoms, and advised us to take care of our health. If anyone exhibits symptoms, there is a designated department at the institute to assist them by arranging visits to a government hospital.

The professors here are exceptional. Many of them teach at foreign universities annually. This is a stark contrast to my previous experience with strict teachers at my previous schools and university. Here, the professors are very approachable and use a lot of technology. They all have laptops and use projectors to present PowerPoint slides. Initially, the training was to be conducted at the institute, but due to a lack of available air-conditioned rooms—occupied by other programs—the venue was changed. We are now using a hotel conference room with air conditioning.

Participants are divided into four batches: A, B, C, and D. Batches A and B attend sessions from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., while batches C and D have sessions from 2:15 p.m. to 6:15 p.m. I am in the second batch. Over 95% of the participants are experienced unauthorized guides, and I am the only one in my batch without prior experience with a travel agency. Some participants are over 55 years old.

Before each session, the professors encourage participants to share their knowledge if they disagree with any content, as they acknowledge that we may have more information in certain areas. Our professors are not only from IITTM but also from various universities and institutions across India. Each day features a different professor lecturing on a new subject. The institute emphasizes that a tour guide is a living encyclopedia and therefore invites experts from diverse fields to provide comprehensive training.

While our training focuses on North India, we have had professors discussing other regions, such as the West and South. Most classes have been engaging, but two stood out as particularly unusual. One was on Indian astrology, which could have been interesting if it had covered the basics. Instead, the professor delved into advanced topics and was more focused on marketing his services, offering his business card and inviting us to his office in Rajasthan for personal consultations.

Another class, on menu planning in hotels, was less relevant to our training. It would have been more interesting if it had covered hotel culture, but instead, it focused on how hotels plan their menus and generate revenue from their restaurants. None of the participants found this class particularly useful or relevant to our guide training.

We are receiving instruction on a wide range of topics, including different segments of tourism, religions, cultures, cuisine, IT in tourism, and the tourism industry both in India and abroad. One segment that particularly intrigued me was LGBT tourism. I had not been familiar with this aspect of tourism before, but it seems fascinating. Given that no other students are focusing on this topic, I see it as a unique opportunity to align my research with the guide training program.

The professors are also addressing various social issues, such as the Coca-Cola controversy, environmental concerns, water issues, and women’s rights. In a class on IT in tourism, we covered blogging. Although I already knew about blogging, emailing, and web design, I inquired about search engine optimization. The professor did not address it, likely because most participants were unfamiliar with the Internet and he did not want to delve into advanced topics in that context. Nonetheless, I enjoyed the class.

The program coordinator mentioned that we should be proud of the training provided, noting that previous programs had only organized around 20 classes, whereas this year’s program includes at least 75 classes on various subjects. I am thoroughly enjoying the training and am eagerly anticipating my research on LGBT tourism in Benares.

Coca-Cola research for book

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I worked with the American writer Mr. Michael Blanding as his translator and local assistant for two days, on June 14th and 15th, in Mehndiganj. Mr. Blanding is writing a book titled *Coke Machine*, which explores the Coca-Cola issue and will be published by Penguin Publications, USA. I first met him on June 14th at the Lok Samiti’s office in Mehndiganj. While Michael has previously written articles about the Coca-Cola issue in Colombia, this book will also address problems in India, Colombia, and Mexico. One of his notable articles is “Coke: The New Nike?”

Broken pipes of Rain harvesting system at Mirjamuraj Police station

Before working with Michael, I was aware of the issues in India and Colombia but did not know that Mexico was also affected. Michael informed me that Mexico is the largest market for Coca-Cola products, and now faces severe problems with obesity and other health issues. Obesity was not prevalent in Mexico a few years ago, but with the increased sales of Coca-Cola products, the obesity rates have also risen. He also mentioned that Coca-Cola and Pepsi are planning to introduce coconut water in India, which struck me as odd. I doubt they will be able to offer a truly natural product, as it will likely be mixed with chemicals.

We interviewed about ten people, visited Coca-Cola’s rainwater harvesting sites at various locations, and examined their wastewater discharge system. I had hoped for improvements, but the situation remains unchanged. We visited two rainwater harvesting sites: one on the rooftop of the Agriculture Research Center in Kallipur village and another on the rooftop of the Mijramurad Police Station. Neither site was operational, with most pipes either broken or jammed. At the Agriculture Research Center, staff reported that Coca-Cola had set up the site about two years ago to create a positive impression.

 

However, it ceased functioning within a few months, and despite notifying Coca-Cola officials, no repairs were made. The rooftop now overflows, and the rainwater harvesting system is entirely nonfunctional. The well, intended to capture and recharge groundwater, was completely dry, and residents said they had never seen water in it due to jammed pipes. The situation at the Mijramurad Police Station was similar. Most pipes were broken or jammed, and local residents, including a journalist and police officers, confirmed that the site stopped working a few months after its installation, with no subsequent maintenance from Coca-Cola.

Residents near the Coca-Cola plant reported significant water shortages, blaming the company for their problems. They noted that water scarcity was not an issue before Coca-Cola arrived in Mehndiganj. Many showed us their dry wells and nonfunctional hand pumps. Farmers now purchase water for irrigation because their bore wells no longer work. Wealthier individuals with submersible pumps sell water to poorer farmers. We visited two ponds dug by the village committee, which are different from Coca-Cola’s sites. The committee had chosen land with lime-rich soil to filter the water effectively.

They connected nearby villages to the pond through pipes, allowing rainwater to flow into the pond and recharge groundwater. It appeared that the village committee’s efforts were far more effective than Coca-Cola’s. Nandlal Master, President of Lok Samiti, mentioned that Coca-Cola had conducted groundwater testing through an agency called TERI (Tata Environmental Research Institute), which recommended that the company leave Mehndiganj. Based on my observations over the past three years, I agree that Coca-Cola should exit Mehndiganj. I am eager for Michael’s book to be published and hope it will support the people of Mehndiganj in their struggle.

 

Airtel mobile phone scam

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I use an Airtel SIM card, which is one of the largest service providers in India. A few months ago, I received a call from them about choosing a caller tune for my mobile. The automated system played a few songs and instructed me to press 3 if I wanted to select a song as my caller tune. It also mentioned that pressing 3 would subscribe me to the service for a week at a charge of Rs. 10. I intended to hang up but mistakenly pressed 3 instead of the red button located just above it, thereby subscribing to the service.

Initially, I didn’t mind as I knew the subscription was only for a week. However, the following week, I received a message saying my subscription had been renewed, which I did not want. I tried to contact customer care but was unable to, due to my lifetime validity plan. I visited their office, only to be told that lifetime plan customers could not access customer care services. It seemed that customers with lifetime plans were being treated unfairly, perhaps because they paid less.

The situation continued for three months, during which I noticed a consistent loss of balance without understanding where it was going. I thought someone else might be using my mobile, causing a negative balance. Whenever I recharged, it seemed to cover previous deductions. After a few months, I switched to a monthly billing system to receive a detailed bill. I was shocked to discover that my first month’s bill included a charge of Rs. 68 for the caller tune.

If I had subscribed to the caller tune on a monthly basis, it would have cost Rs. 30 per month. Instead, due to the weekly subscription, I was charged Rs. 68. This included Rs. 10 per week for the caller tune and an additional Rs. 7 per week for an automatic SMS that renewed the service. I never sent that SMS, yet I was charged for it. Although Rs. 68 wasn’t a huge amount, I was frustrated by what felt like deceitful billing practices.

I visited their office to unsubscribe from the service, but the representative directed me to call a specific number. I asked if she could unsubscribe me using her office computer, but she insisted that only a call could handle this. When I called the number, I faced another issue. Initially, the automated system had spoken to me in Hindi, but when I tried to unsubscribe, it was only available in English, with no language option.

The automated system used a strong American accent, which was difficult to understand, even though I am familiar with American accents. The speech was fast and unclear. After listening multiple times, I managed to unsubscribe from the caller tune service. However, I wonder how people who don’t speak English or struggle with foreign accents cope with such situations. Are they left paying Rs. 68 per month without realizing it? It’s frustrating how corporations seem to exploit every opportunity to increase their profits.

Sex worker children rights rally

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I participated in a rally organized by Durbar to advocate for the rights of children of sex workers. The rally began at Durbar’s office in Sonagachi, a well-known red-light district. Seranna, the rest of the crew, and I arrived at the office around 6:30 in the evening. The rally was scheduled to start at 7:00, and we were all very excited. Upon arriving, I noticed hundreds of policemen stationed around the office. At first, I was concerned, but it turned out they were there to ensure our safety. By that time, about 3,000 people were already gathered, most of them children of sex workers. They were lined up and holding various banners, ready for the event.

There were also many Hijras and transgender individuals present. A group of children of sex workers was set to lead the rally with music and dance, which I found to be a fantastic addition. The rally kicked off around 7 o’clock, and by then, there were approximately 5,000 people in attendance, making it a massive event. Starting from Durbar’s office, the rally meandered through the narrow alleys of Sonagachi, the largest red-light district in India. Seranna and I were at the front, enthusiastically cheering alongside the children of sex workers.

Just a few minutes into the march, we reached the heart of the red-light district. Sex workers were visible everywhere—on the streets, on the rooftops of brothels, and peering out from their windows. Despite being well-dressed, their unhappiness and ill health were palpable. None of them wanted their pictures taken; they would immediately turn away upon seeing a camera. This reaction was disheartening and underscored their fear of exposure, which is a direct result of their marginalization and separation from society. It was a reality I hadn’t fully anticipated.

I also took a look inside some of the brothels, and what I saw was hard to believe. The conditions were appalling—filthy beyond imagination, with no proper ventilation and bottles of alcohol scattered everywhere. The grim state wasn’t limited to just the brothels; the entire neighborhood was in a state of severe disarray. Many of the people I saw appeared to be drug users, visibly suffering from physical and mental ailments. It felt like a scene from a third-world country. Although I was aware that Indian sex workers face harsh conditions, I had no idea it was this dire. I had previously seen some brothels in Varanasi and nearby districts, but this experience made me realize just how extreme the situation can be.

Children of sex workers

The conditions in the brothels are deplorable: there is no proper ventilation, inadequate food, and no access to healthcare. The workers are confined to the brothels and, despite these harsh conditions, they barely make a decent living. In India, sex work is extremely undervalued. Some of the sex workers I interviewed for the documentary revealed that they sometimes charge as little as Rs. 50 per customer, from which they have to give half to the brothel owner. It was a grim situation. We handed out many pamphlets detailing the rights of sex workers and their children, but I couldn’t understand the content as it was all written in Bengali.

Children carrying banners

One intriguing observation was the prevalence of effeminate behavior among the children of sex workers in the cultural program and parade. Many of them identified as hijras or exhibited effeminate mannerisms. They would sometimes sing hijra songs. I had heard from sex workers and locals in Kolkata that children of sex workers are often abused by their mothers’ clients, which might explain their effeminate tendencies. While I’m unsure of the exact reasons, such a large concentration of hijras and effeminate individuals from one neighborhood is unusual in my society.

Women hiding their face from camera

Many locals in Kolkata informed me that some clients visit brothels and request young children. The brothel owners exploit this demand by forcing the children of sex workers, sometimes as young as 6 or 7, into sexual acts. This often happens without the mothers’ knowledge or consent. Even if they find out, they are powerless to stop it. The children are repeatedly subjected to sexual abuse whenever a client requests a young child. It’s heartbreaking to learn about the exploitation of sex workers and their children.

Participants at the rally

Some people suggested that because the children of sex workers spend most of their time with their mothers, are isolated from male influences, and are often abused, it can affect their development and lead to effeminacy. I can’t say for certain if this is true, but it might be partially accurate. Despite these challenges, the children were wonderful with their dancing and music, and some of them played the drums as well. Midway through the rally, we were joined by the renowned hijra activist Laxmi Narayan Tripathi, who is well-known for representing hijras and transgender individuals across Asia.

Some more banners

She was brimming with energy and enthusiasm for the rally. She jumped, clapped, danced, and shouted with such fervor—it was incredibly fun to watch. I thoroughly enjoyed being part of it. I joined in the dancing and tried my best to sing along to their Bengali songs, though I struggled with the pronunciation. I especially enjoyed when they sang the Hindi song “Hum Honge Kamyab” (We Will Be Successful), and I sang along with them. It was a truly amazing experience to be with these children fighting for their rights. Eventually, we reached a large park where the parade concluded. Various speakers took the stage to share their thoughts and address the community.

Participants at the rally

A few sex workers, social activists, and Laxmi addressed the crowd. They vowed to continue fighting for their rights with unwavering determination. The rally concluded, and we had caused a significant traffic jam. I thoroughly enjoyed the event, from the spirited participation of the sex workers’ children to the overall atmosphere of the rally. I am certain that I will return next year to support them again.

Laxmi Narayan Tripathi addressing the rally

Sex workers bank and sanitary pad factory

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Indian sex workers face significant barriers in opening a bank account due to strict requirements for residential proof and a guarantor. It is puzzling that banks mandate a guarantor, who must be an existing account holder at the same bank, for account opening. Without a guarantor and with no official residential proof, many sex workers are unable to access banking services. This requirement further marginalizes those already living on the fringes of society, making it even harder for them to achieve financial stability.

Durbar Office

For a long time, sex workers faced immense difficulty in opening bank accounts, which prevented them from saving money securely. Their savings were often stolen—either by brothel owners or clients. To address this issue, Durbar advocated for policy changes to allow sex workers to open bank accounts without the need for a guarantor or formal residential proof. Despite these efforts, both the government and banks refused to make these changes. In response, Durbar sought a different solution: they requested permission from the government to establish a co-operative society specifically for sex workers. After significant effort and negotiation, they finally received approval to move forward with this initiative.

Seranna with the ladies working at the worksite

Durbar has now established a co-operative society exclusively for sex workers, with twelve thousand members saving their money through this system. This society operates much like a traditional bank, offering services such as loans and savings accounts. For sex workers who are confined to brothels and unable to visit the bank in person, Durbar’s staff travels from brothel to brothel to collect deposits. I had the chance to visit the bank and saw many sex workers managing their banking needs directly. This initiative has significantly benefited the community, providing not only a secure place for saving money but also access to loans when needed.

Production process

This development represents a major step forward in supporting the financial independence and empowerment of sex workers. In the same bank building, there’s a small shop dedicated to sex workers, offering daily essentials at prices lower than market rates. This shop is exclusive to sex workers, but it also features a section for items like toys and clothes created by sex workers, their children, or their family members. Seranna and I took the opportunity to shop there and were impressed by the concept. Additionally, Durbar has launched a factory that produces sanitary pads, employing only sex workers.

Final Product

This initiative is another remarkable effort by Durbar to support and empower the community. The combination of the bank, shop, and factory reflects the organization’s commitment to improving the lives of sex workers in innovative and impactful ways. The operation was impressively organized. Durbar had brought in an MBA professional to assist with launching their product in the market. Accompanied by Seranna and the camera crew, I had the opportunity to film at the factory, which was conveniently located at the entrance of Sonagachi, the red light district. At the factory, I observed about ten women working. Many of them appeared to be over 55 years old.

They explained that as they age, opportunities in the sex industry diminish, making it crucial for them to secure a stable income. The job at the factory provided them with much-needed financial stability. I found this project highly commendable, as it not only offers employment but also respects the dignity and contribution of these women.

A lady making Sanitary pads

Condom usage demonstration & training to the sex workers

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Seranna and I accomplished something unprecedented in India. On the final day of the conference, we conducted a condom usage demonstration in front of a crowd of 6,000 to 7,000 people. We provided training to sex workers on how to protect themselves from sexually transmitted diseases (STDs) and also shared strategies for improving their earnings. Through our interviews with sex workers, we discovered that their knowledge of STDs was limited, with HIV being the most commonly recognized. To address this gap, I asked Seranna to include information about various STDs in her presentation. Given that she was scheduled to speak on the last day of the conference, we saw it as a prime opportunity to reach a large audience and spread vital health information effectively.

Seranna and I on the stage, I was really confused:)

Seranna was deeply moved by the extreme poverty faced by Indian sex workers. She contrasted it with the situation in the West, where sex workers often earn significantly more. For example, she mentioned that in the West, she charges $300 per hour—an amount that represents two to three months’ salary for an Indian sex worker. Seranna was eager to share her insights on how sex workers could potentially increase their earnings from clients. Although reaching that level of income might take time for Indian sex workers, she believed that providing them with this knowledge could be beneficial. On the final day of the conference, which was attended by around 6,000 to 7,000 people, the majority of whom were sex workers, Seranna’s presentation was a valuable opportunity to impart this information and inspire change.

Me acting as a doggy customer

Since we only finalized the details of Seranna’s presentation on the morning of the event, we were under significant time constraints. With just a few hours to prepare, we decided to make the presentation more engaging by incorporating a skit. I had requested that Seranna bring some sex toys for the demonstration, and she brought three dildos. Seranna was enthusiastic about using them to illustrate key points in the presentation. However, I was concerned about using sex toys in front of such a large audience, especially given that they are illegal in India. This added an extra layer of anxiety about how the presentation might be received and whether it could cause any issues.

I had no idea what was going on

I asked Seranna to check with the conference organizer about using sex toys in our presentation. The organizer gave us the green light, but I was still apprehensive about displaying them in front of such a large audience. I approached the organizer myself for a second opinion, and he reassured me that it was fine. Seranna and I then discussed our approach for the presentation. We agreed that it should be engaging and not just a lecture. We decided to incorporate some comedy, as Seranna often does, to keep the audience entertained. The next challenge was that the audience primarily spoke Bengali, so we needed a translator to convert our presentation from English to Bengali.

I laugh every time I see this photo 🙂

We asked the organizer for a translator, and they provided us with a Bengali-English interpreter. For our presentation, I took on the role of a difficult customer who refused to pay upfront and insisted on not using condoms, while Seranna portrayed a savvy sex worker. To emphasize my role, I wore a mask shaped like male genitalia. The presentation began with Seranna requesting payment upfront, but I, in character, insisted on receiving services before paying. This led to a heated exchange, with Seranna repeatedly asserting that she required payment before providing her services, while I countered by arguing that I should pay only after receiving them. Ultimately, Seranna refused to provide the services, illustrating the importance of securing payment in advance.

Some toys we used in the presentation

Then, I agreed to pay upfront. Through this, we aimed to emphasize to the other sex workers the importance of securing payment before providing services, as some clients might not pay after receiving them. Afterward, Seranna introduced the dildo, which caused a hushed silence in the audience. I felt quite uncomfortable, but hoped it would be beneficial for everyone at the conference. Seranna demonstrated how to use the dildo, showing a technique to ensure that clients’ genitalia are disease-free before providing services. She emphasized that this practice could help protect sex workers from potential health risks.

After this, Seranna instructed me to use a condom, but I continued to resist, playing the role of a reluctant client who didn’t want to use one. I argued that since I was married and she looked safe, there was no need for protection. Seranna countered by pointing out that diseases aren’t visible on the face, emphasizing the importance of using condoms to prevent STDs, including HIV/AIDS. Eventually, I agreed to use the condom. Following this, Seranna demonstrated how to enhance the client experience by having me lay on my stomach on the bench for a massage and then performing a “boob slide.” The goal of this demonstration was to educate sex workers on how to engage more effectively with clients, offering additional services that could lead to higher satisfaction, better tips, and increased earnings.

Seranna demonstrated proper condom usage by placing it over the dildo. The dildo was large, requiring her to try twice. She added a humorous touch by commenting on the dildo’s size, which caused the previously silent audience to laugh and applaud. After successfully placing the condom, Seranna performed a demonstration of oral sex. We had several toys representing different sexually transmitted diseases. Seranna would simulate oral sex and then display the toys, explaining how they are spread and their potential consequences. I appreciated her clear and informative explanations about these diseases.

And then she acted like we were having sex and she would ask me if I was enjoying it. This was also one very important part of this training to tell sex workers to keep talking to their clients about how they feel while having sex. This way the men become more erected and cum early (I believe in the idea of working smart, not hard). So good for sex workers. By this time our time and bench’s life was finished. It broke and we fell down on the ground and this brought dead silence amongst the audience. But finally everyone started making noise, laughing and clapping. I loved it.

Finally, I gave Seranna a tip for her exceptional performance. I believe that introducing such innovative approaches to sex work could significantly improve the lives of Indian sex workers. Indian men would likely appreciate these services, but it’s unclear why such practices are not more common among local sex workers. I hope this presentation helps them earn more and make positive changes in their lives. Immediately after the presentation, we were surrounded by media, social workers, sex workers, and other attendees, all eager to speak with us and conduct interviews. It was a fantastic experience. We’re considering doing something similar in the US next June.

Interview with sex workers

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We interviewed several sex workers in Kolkata for the documentary, and I was fortunate to serve as the interpreter between them and Seranna, which allowed me to speak with them personally. One notable observation was that many of the sex workers we spoke with had entered the profession after experiencing significant hardships in their lives. For example, I spoke with a sex worker originally from Faizabad, now residing in Kolkata. She shared that she had married a Muslim man against her family’s wishes, leading her to leave her home and move to Kolkata.

After spending a few months in Kolkata, she discovered that her husband was a drug user. Despite her repeated pleas for him to quit drugs and find a job, he refused to change. When she had a child, their financial situation became dire, as her husband was unemployed and she couldn’t seek help from her family due to the conflict caused by her interfaith marriage. Faced with these challenges, she decided to leave her home and turn to sex work at a brothel. She is now happy with her life, feeling that it is better than what her husband could provide.

She enjoys a newfound independence and freedom, and has even rebuilt her relationship with her family. Initially, there were issues when her family learned she had become a sex worker, but those conflicts have since been resolved. Notably, she worked as a program coordinator for Durbar, the sex workers’ organization. Her role brought her into the public eye, and when her neighbors from her hometown saw her on TV discussing sex work, they began inquiring about her parents. Her parents urged her to leave the profession, but she is resolute in her decision to remain a sex worker. She is very content with her life and even hopes to continue in this profession in her next life.

When asked about her wishes for her child, she expressed a desire for them to attend school and secure a stable job. However, a significant challenge for sex workers is getting their children admitted to school. Most sex workers in India lack residential proof, as many are brought from countries like Nepal or Bangladesh, or they frequently change their residences. Because many sex workers come from other countries, or even if they are from within India, they often lack residential proof. This is due to frequent changes in their place of residence or the controlling nature of brothel owners.

Typically, sex workers are not permitted to leave the brothel area. While some may work at hotels, this opportunity is limited. Brothel owners usually only send those who have been with them for several years, as these workers are considered less likely to run away. In some cases, brothel owners also send someone along with the sex workers when they go to hotels to ensure they remain under control. Another major issue for sex workers is the low income they earn from their profession. In India, sex work is very inexpensive, and sex workers often lack social identity and security.

Typically, they charge between Rs. 50-100 per client, as sex work is usually brief—clients often engage in sex for just 5-10 minutes and then leave. Sometimes, they do not even see the face of the person they are with. Both sex workers and clients prefer to keep their identities hidden, which contributes to the clandestine nature of the work. Sometimes, sex workers spend up to an hour with a single client, earning around Rs. 500 for that session. However, this is not the norm. Typically, they see numerous clients each day, often making only Rs. 50 per client after giving half of their earnings to the brothel owner.

Though they might have a few regular clients who are more generous and even book overnight sessions, these opportunities are rare. The majority of their income is minimal, forcing them to see more than ten clients daily, which takes a significant physical and emotional toll on them. Due to the lack of residential proof, sex workers struggle to open bank accounts or access services that require identity verification. In India, stringent checks for residential documents have become more common since the Mumbai bomb blasts, exacerbating the difficulties faced by sex workers. If they are caught without proper documentation, they risk being sent to jail.

Many sex workers reported that police raids are frequent, during which they are often beaten, abused, or imprisoned. Ironically, the same officers who conduct these raids sometimes return the following day to solicit sexual services from them. The sex workers explained that brothel owners typically pay local police stations a bribe each month to avoid raids. Despite this, the police still conduct raids when there is political pressure or an opportunity for personal gain. Some sex workers recounted disturbing experiences where police officers took them to jail and sexually assaulted them there. It was deeply shocking to hear how those meant to uphold the law were instead violating it.

They also mentioned that, in some cases, the police have even targeted the children of sex workers, which was particularly horrifying and hard to believe. When we asked sex workers about their services, most said they do not perform oral sex or offer massages to their clients. Only one woman admitted to giving oral sex, but only to select clients. In India, discussing oral sex is taboo, and it is often not mentioned by sex workers. This reluctance is surprising, as providing such services could potentially increase their earnings. The reasons for this silence are unclear, but some believe it is considered an “English style” of sex, though it may have historical roots in India. It’s possible that this practice was introduced by the British and then spread globally.

One of the sex workers shared a story from the early days of Durbar’s efforts to provide basic literacy and education. Durbar sought to rent a room from the local community to start their classes. Despite their best efforts, which included approaching nearly everyone in the neighborhood over a two-month period, no one agreed to rent them a space. Many residents questioned Durbar’s motives, arguing that educating sex workers would lead them to disrespect others and make their own decisions. As a result, Durbar had to set up the classes at their own office, which was about a kilometer away from the brothels.

Another interesting observation was that many sex workers have a regular client who holds a special place in their lives. This client is not merely a customer but acts like a life partner, often providing support for the sex worker’s children. One significant challenge for sex workers is getting their children admitted to school, as they are required to provide the name of the child’s father. Since this can be difficult due to their circumstances, some of these special clients step in and provide their name as the father, helping the sex workers with the admission process.

We also inquired about sexually transmitted diseases, and, frankly, most sex workers were only aware of HIV. They knew about lubricants but had limited knowledge beyond that. Despite using condoms, they reported frequent breakage, which they attributed mainly to poor-quality condoms. I believe that using lubricant could help prevent such issues. Before meeting Lane, I had never seen lubricant myself, and I’m puzzled as to why it’s not readily available in our market. The sex workers clearly need more comprehensive training and education on sexual health, but unfortunately, the government is doing little to address these needs.

All the sex workers we spoke to expressed a strong belief that sex work should be decriminalized, a sentiment I share. I consider sex work to be one of the world’s oldest professions, possibly even the oldest, alongside agriculture. Legalizing and decriminalizing it is crucial, as sex workers are an integral part of society and deserve the same respect as anyone else. Unfortunately, achieving this change in India will likely be a prolonged struggle, given the current state of our politics. Often, when one political faction attempts to make progress on this issue, others obstruct their efforts. Despite these challenges, organizations like Durbar are making commendable strides, and I remain hopeful for meaningful change in the future.