Interview with sex workers

We interviewed several sex workers in Kolkata for the documentary, and I was fortunate to serve as the interpreter between them and Seranna, which allowed me to speak with them personally. One notable observation was that many of the sex workers we spoke with had entered the profession after experiencing significant hardships in their lives. For example, I spoke with a sex worker originally from Faizabad, now residing in Kolkata. She shared that she had married a Muslim man against her family’s wishes, leading her to leave her home and move to Kolkata.

After spending a few months in Kolkata, she discovered that her husband was a drug user. Despite her repeated pleas for him to quit drugs and find a job, he refused to change. When she had a child, their financial situation became dire, as her husband was unemployed and she couldn’t seek help from her family due to the conflict caused by her interfaith marriage. Faced with these challenges, she decided to leave her home and turn to sex work at a brothel. She is now happy with her life, feeling that it is better than what her husband could provide.

She enjoys a newfound independence and freedom, and has even rebuilt her relationship with her family. Initially, there were issues when her family learned she had become a sex worker, but those conflicts have since been resolved. Notably, she worked as a program coordinator for Durbar, the sex workers’ organization. Her role brought her into the public eye, and when her neighbors from her hometown saw her on TV discussing sex work, they began inquiring about her parents. Her parents urged her to leave the profession, but she is resolute in her decision to remain a sex worker. She is very content with her life and even hopes to continue in this profession in her next life.

When asked about her wishes for her child, she expressed a desire for them to attend school and secure a stable job. However, a significant challenge for sex workers is getting their children admitted to school. Most sex workers in India lack residential proof, as many are brought from countries like Nepal or Bangladesh, or they frequently change their residences. Because many sex workers come from other countries, or even if they are from within India, they often lack residential proof. This is due to frequent changes in their place of residence or the controlling nature of brothel owners.

Typically, sex workers are not permitted to leave the brothel area. While some may work at hotels, this opportunity is limited. Brothel owners usually only send those who have been with them for several years, as these workers are considered less likely to run away. In some cases, brothel owners also send someone along with the sex workers when they go to hotels to ensure they remain under control. Another major issue for sex workers is the low income they earn from their profession. In India, sex work is very inexpensive, and sex workers often lack social identity and security.

Typically, they charge between Rs. 50-100 per client, as sex work is usually brief—clients often engage in sex for just 5-10 minutes and then leave. Sometimes, they do not even see the face of the person they are with. Both sex workers and clients prefer to keep their identities hidden, which contributes to the clandestine nature of the work. Sometimes, sex workers spend up to an hour with a single client, earning around Rs. 500 for that session. However, this is not the norm. Typically, they see numerous clients each day, often making only Rs. 50 per client after giving half of their earnings to the brothel owner.

Though they might have a few regular clients who are more generous and even book overnight sessions, these opportunities are rare. The majority of their income is minimal, forcing them to see more than ten clients daily, which takes a significant physical and emotional toll on them. Due to the lack of residential proof, sex workers struggle to open bank accounts or access services that require identity verification. In India, stringent checks for residential documents have become more common since the Mumbai bomb blasts, exacerbating the difficulties faced by sex workers. If they are caught without proper documentation, they risk being sent to jail.

Many sex workers reported that police raids are frequent, during which they are often beaten, abused, or imprisoned. Ironically, the same officers who conduct these raids sometimes return the following day to solicit sexual services from them. The sex workers explained that brothel owners typically pay local police stations a bribe each month to avoid raids. Despite this, the police still conduct raids when there is political pressure or an opportunity for personal gain. Some sex workers recounted disturbing experiences where police officers took them to jail and sexually assaulted them there. It was deeply shocking to hear how those meant to uphold the law were instead violating it.

They also mentioned that, in some cases, the police have even targeted the children of sex workers, which was particularly horrifying and hard to believe. When we asked sex workers about their services, most said they do not perform oral sex or offer massages to their clients. Only one woman admitted to giving oral sex, but only to select clients. In India, discussing oral sex is taboo, and it is often not mentioned by sex workers. This reluctance is surprising, as providing such services could potentially increase their earnings. The reasons for this silence are unclear, but some believe it is considered an “English style” of sex, though it may have historical roots in India. It’s possible that this practice was introduced by the British and then spread globally.

One of the sex workers shared a story from the early days of Durbar’s efforts to provide basic literacy and education. Durbar sought to rent a room from the local community to start their classes. Despite their best efforts, which included approaching nearly everyone in the neighborhood over a two-month period, no one agreed to rent them a space. Many residents questioned Durbar’s motives, arguing that educating sex workers would lead them to disrespect others and make their own decisions. As a result, Durbar had to set up the classes at their own office, which was about a kilometer away from the brothels.

Another interesting observation was that many sex workers have a regular client who holds a special place in their lives. This client is not merely a customer but acts like a life partner, often providing support for the sex worker’s children. One significant challenge for sex workers is getting their children admitted to school, as they are required to provide the name of the child’s father. Since this can be difficult due to their circumstances, some of these special clients step in and provide their name as the father, helping the sex workers with the admission process.

We also inquired about sexually transmitted diseases, and, frankly, most sex workers were only aware of HIV. They knew about lubricants but had limited knowledge beyond that. Despite using condoms, they reported frequent breakage, which they attributed mainly to poor-quality condoms. I believe that using lubricant could help prevent such issues. Before meeting Lane, I had never seen lubricant myself, and I’m puzzled as to why it’s not readily available in our market. The sex workers clearly need more comprehensive training and education on sexual health, but unfortunately, the government is doing little to address these needs.

All the sex workers we spoke to expressed a strong belief that sex work should be decriminalized, a sentiment I share. I consider sex work to be one of the world’s oldest professions, possibly even the oldest, alongside agriculture. Legalizing and decriminalizing it is crucial, as sex workers are an integral part of society and deserve the same respect as anyone else. Unfortunately, achieving this change in India will likely be a prolonged struggle, given the current state of our politics. Often, when one political faction attempts to make progress on this issue, others obstruct their efforts. Despite these challenges, organizations like Durbar are making commendable strides, and I remain hopeful for meaningful change in the future.

Comparing Countries Compassion

Seranna has launched a documentary series titled *Comparing Countries: Compassion in Kolkata*, focusing on sex work and the lives of sex workers in India. This project is part of a broader initiative where she plans to explore these issues in various countries, but she chose to start in India. I’ve been selected to assist her in organizing interviews and will also be interviewed about my work with Sanjeevani Booti. Seranna hired a camera crew from Delhi for the project, but unfortunately, they have not been up to par. The crew, especially the cameraman, has been problematic—frequently engaging in disputes with each other in front of the interviewees. Their unprofessional behavior extends to asking inappropriate questions during interviews. Seranna has been visibly frustrated, but there’s little we can do, as the production company, though prominent and helmed by an award-winning director, does not have the director present for this project.

This documentary, *Comparing Countries: Compassion in Kolkata*, focuses on the legal landscapes surrounding sex work in different countries. I am thrilled to be involved in such a meaningful project. My role includes contributing ideas on direction and handling translations. I’ve translated several interviews with sex workers, social activists, university professors, transgender individuals, and children of sex workers. The project has been incredibly rewarding. We conducted a condom usage demonstration and provided training for sex workers on maintaining their safety and maximizing their earnings. I’m confident that this documentary will be a significant success. I feel fortunate to be part of this impactful work.

Seranna interviewing Laxmi Narayan Tripathi

Air Pollution in Kolkata

I arrived in Kolkata just an hour ago and am now at Durbar’s office. In this short time, my cream-colored T-shirt has almost turned black—it’s incredibly polluted here. There’s smoke everywhere, and it seems that Bengali people favor dark colors; the taxis are dark yellow, buses are dark green, and the buildings look quite old. Oh, and they even have trams! This city is definitely not what I expected, but it seems like it’s going to be an interesting experience.

The people at Durbar have been very welcoming. They’ve informed me that the conference starts tomorrow, so today is a day off for me. I’m thinking of exploring some tourist spots while I have the chance. I forgot to bring the data cable for my camera, so I’ll upload pictures once I get back home.

Documentary filming about Indian Sex Workers

I met Seranna today at her hotel and talked with her for about two hours. We discussed how the shooting went the previous day. She mentioned that they were supposed to film the sex workers at G.B. Road but couldn’t because the sex workers and brothel owner didn’t allow it. She simply talked with them, but she didn’t understand much of what they were saying due to the crew’s poor translation skills. They spoke to the sex workers, but often didn’t translate. She said it was okay and she was satisfied with what she was getting.

Seranna explained that the brothel owner charged her Rs. 20,000 ($450) just to let them in and organize a ten-minute dance performance by sex workers. They weren’t allowed to film the dance or anything inside the brothels. Despite this, she was still happy with the outcome. I’m sure she’s a very cool and positive person. I see this as a mistake on the part of the crew members. When I worked for CBC and MTV Italy, we conducted research beforehand, ensuring everything was well-organized. But with this documentary, nothing is organized. I didn’t like it at all.

Seranna said that after spending a few minutes at the brothel, the police arrived, demanding a bribe from her. I don’t know why they wanted a bribe, perhaps because Seranna didn’t have legal permission to make a documentary that would be commercialized. I’m sure the crew members didn’t inform her about this either. The cameraman is a very famous guy, but I don’t understand how these people can make such big mistakes. Seranna said that everything went well with her and she was very happy with the progress.

I had asked Seranna to bring some sex toys, and she brought a lot of dildos and fake vaginas. She’ll give a few of them to me for my NGO. I had never seen them before, so I was excited to check them out. She showed me how to use one of the fake vaginas. It was hilarious. She said she uses these toys to educate people about safe sex practices. I believe that these kinds of things attract attention and allow you to make people listen to what you want them to hear. I liked the toys a lot.

Seranna mentioned that the crew members didn’t want me to join the shooting for whatever reason, but Seranna wanted me to go today, but I declined. Seranna is going to interview two high-class sex workers, a politician, and attend a conference organized by Delhi University about sex work in India. We’ll fly to Kolkata tomorrow to attend the conference. I’m excited for it

HIV & AIDS workshop at girls’ school

We recently organized a workshop at Gopi Radha Girls School in Varanasi, where social workers and volunteers from Sanjeevani Booti conducted a presentation on HIV and AIDS. This has been a long-standing goal, and it was exciting to see it finally come to fruition. We presented to the 9th and 11th grade girls, though we had hoped to reach the 9th, 10th, 11th, and 12th grades. Unfortunately, the school did not allow presentations for the 10th and 12th grades due to their upcoming exams. The 11th grade presentation took place on February 11th, and the 9th grade presentation on February 12th.

Class 9th students

We had originally planned to send one girl and one boy to each class, but the school only permitted female presenters, so we were able to send only girls. While I have some very motivated girls interested in this issue, they prefer paid positions rather than volunteering. Although I understand that finding people willing to work for free is challenging, this situation complicates my project. I currently lack regular donors and do not want to rely on just a few individuals. I need new sources of financial support for my projects.

Presentation about HIV infection

We also had valuable assistance from two international volunteers who helped make the event a success. Claire Abraham from Montreal, Canada, and Christina Hunter from San Francisco, USA, contributed significantly. Claire had been supporting me for the past month, providing information and training for Sanjeevani Booti’s social workers. Unfortunately, she could only attend the workshop on the 11th due to her need to travel to Nepal for a visa extension. Christina joined us on the second day.

School staff and Volunteers of Sanjeevani Booti

Some of the girls requested that we discuss condoms, sex, and sexually transmitted diseases in more detail. However, we refrained from showing condoms due to concerns about the school administration’s reaction. The girls have expressed a desire for a more comprehensive workshop on these topics, but organizing such an event is expensive. I am in touch with several doctors and social workers from other organizations to help make the next event successful.

Class 9th Students

I believe it would be valuable for the students to hear about HIV from people living with the virus. There is a network of HIV-positive individuals in Varanasi, and I hope to invite some of them to future events. While everything went well, I am concerned about the future. I realize that I need to learn how to write grant proposals to secure funding. Claire had promised to teach me this skill, and I am looking forward to her return in the next few days.

Sanjeevani Booti Staff with Students

Vodeo filming for AIDSvideos.org

I have received a project from an American organization called AIDSvideos.org, which produces videos to raise awareness about HIV and AIDS. They want me to create videos in every major Indian language. They have provided twenty-seven different scripts in five Indian languages, making it a long-term project. My tasks include translating these scripts into various Indian languages and then producing the videos. Since there are twenty-two official languages in India, completing the entire project could take several years.

I recently made a Hindi video using one of their scripts for Sanjeevani Booti, but it didn’t turn out as expected. During that time, an American student named Allen Roda from New York University was staying with me and had a high-quality camera. We used his camera to film the video. Without a teleprompter, I had the script printed and placed it on either side of the camera for the speaker to read. While this setup seemed fine on the small camera screen, it revealed issues when played on a larger TV. The speaker’s eyes were constantly shifting from side to side as they read from the different pages, making the video look unprofessional. Therefore, I’ve decided to re-record it.

Ravikant

I am encountering additional challenges. Lane and I searched for teleprompter software and found some that worked well with English scripts. However, these programs do not support Hindi or other Indian languages. Without a teleprompter, recording long scripts becomes very difficult. The script is eighteen minutes long, and it is nearly impossible for anyone to memorize such a lengthy text and present it smoothly on camera.

Our camera setup

I was very excited about this project, but the lack of a suitable teleprompter has become a significant obstacle. The speakers are concerned that they won’t be able to remember the entire script. Additionally, I translated the script into Bhojpuri, which was challenging due to the language’s many regional variations and accents. I aimed to write in a simple Bhojpuri that would be understandable to a broad audience. I’m confident that the translation will work well, but I am still unable to start producing the videos. I hope Lane will find a solution to the teleprompter issue soon. Meanwhile, I am also reaching out to others and searching online for potential fixes. I am eager to get this project underway and am excited about its potential.

Allen Roda

Per capita income India

In India, one of the most common questions people ask is, “How much is your salary?” With India’s rapid development, the nature of such questions has evolved. About twenty years ago, the standard query after meeting someone was, “What do your parents do?” Today, however, the first question is often about one’s occupation, followed by inquiries about the parents’ professions. While family remains a crucial aspect of Indian society, it is clear that the focus has shifted towards individual careers.

However, discussing salary in India can be quite confusing. Despite having a fixed salary, many people are unsure of their actual earnings due to the prevalent practice of bribery. Here’s how these conversations typically go:

**Person A:** “What is your salary?”

**Person B:** “Ten thousand, but I make about twenty thousand including everything.”

In this context, “everything” often refers to bribes. It’s not uncommon for people to disclose only their official salary, with others then asking if this amount includes additional earnings from bribery. This practice is particularly prevalent among government employees, many of whom are involved in corrupt practices. It’s hard to imagine any government department where work can be done without offering a bribe.

Whether dealing with civil courts, the electricity department, the water board, municipal services, road transport offices, or the police, bribery is a common requirement. For instance, if someone wants a court case to be scheduled at their convenience, a bribe to the clerks can make it happen. If one wishes to reduce their electricity bill, paying a fraction of the bill as a bribe can lower the amount due. Even obtaining a fake driving license can be accomplished by bribing officials, bypassing any testing requirements.

This stark contrast with Western practices is striking. In Western countries, when asked about salary, people are usually asked if the amount is before or after taxes. In India, the focus is on whether the amount is before or after bribes—a significant difference. Many people avoid paying income tax by hiding their earnings, deciding on their own how much tax to pay.

In addition, due to the scarcity of jobs, many people receive their salaries in cash rather than through bank accounts. This system allows employers to bypass official records, leading to widespread underpayment. Even well-known companies like Coca-Cola sometimes fail to pay their temporary employees the standard minimum wage. Improved record-keeping and computerized systems might help address some of these issues, but it’s uncertain whether such measures would be foolproof against new forms of evasion.

Photo documentary about Ganga

A student from Singapore is staying with me. She contacted me through Couchsurfing, initially just to meet up. However, when I discovered she was conducting research on the Ganga, I asked if she would be interested in staying at my place as a paying guest. She was also looking for a homestay, so she agreed to rent my apartment. She is working on a photo documentary titled “Son of Ganga,” which explores the relationship between the people and the Ganga in Varanasi. Although she started this research as a personal project inspired by her father, her school became involved once she informed them and requested time off.

She wanted to collaborate with the Sankat Mochan Foundation for her research. She reached out to them about twenty days ago but has yet to receive a response. I’ve had many conversations with her about the pollution in the Ganga. I took her to a spot where untreated sewage is discharged directly into the river. She was stunned by the volume of waste and said she had no idea the Ganga was so polluted. When I told her there were over ten such discharge points in Varanasi alone, she was incredulous. I also showed her another sewage discharge point near Shivala Ghat and Assi Ghat.

The Assi Ghat drain has a rather ironic story. The government spent a significant amount of money diverting the drain to mix with the Nagwa drain to make the discharge less visible. Yet, the Assi Ghat drain has started up again, discharging untreated sewage directly into the Ganga. It’s baffling why such a large sum was spent merely to obscure the problem rather than investing in a proper treatment plant. There is another river in Varanasi called the Varuna, which has essentially become a large drain. Locals refer to it as “Varuna Nala,” with ‘nala’ meaning drain in Hindi.

I only recently learned that Varuna River and Varuna Nala are the same thing. A religious walk called Antargrih starts at Manikarnika Ghat and covers all of Varanasi. One segment of this walk involves walking along the Varuna River and performing rituals where it merges with the Ganga. The Varuna River flows through areas with numerous Muslim neighborhoods and slaughterhouses. Waste from over ten to fifteen slaughterhouses is dumped directly into the river, along with substantial amounts of sewage. The river is so notorious for its filth that it has become a preferred spot for criminals to dispose of bodies.

It’s not uncommon to find human remains in the river, which eventually mix with the Ganga after several kilometers. This walk is scheduled for later this month, and Nadia and I have decided to participate. I’ve heard that people drink water from the Varuna where it merges with the Ganga. Despite walking along the river, witnessing all the waste, both animal and human, and observing the immense sewage discharge, they still drink this water purely for religious reasons. I can’t fully imagine what we will encounter, but I’m excited for the experience.

Tour guide exam result

The results for the tour guide exam have finally been declared, and I passed! The exam was held on August 26, 2007, and the results were announced on November 7, 2008, after more than a year. The government faced numerous challenges during this period, including four lawsuits from applicants on various grounds, but everything is now settled. Out of over 50,000 applicants, only 300 passed the exam, and I secured the 223rd rank. One notable observation from the results is that only eight women passed the exam.

This could be attributed to two factors: either parents are still reluctant to allow their daughters to work away from home, or women may feel insecure about such jobs. Indian girls in small cities are often highly qualified, pursuing higher education in fields like history or languages, which are well-suited for this profession. Despite the high demand for female tour guides, the number of successful female candidates remains low. I am now set to begin a sixteen-week training program, which includes fourteen weeks of classroom instruction and two weeks of touring various monuments in North India with a professor.

After completing this training and tour, another exam will be conducted. Those who pass the exam will undergo an interview, and upon successful completion, a tour guide license will be issued. This training is part of the preparations for the Commonwealth Games in 2010, so it seems likely that the government will not delay the start of the training. However, given the unpredictable nature of government processes, there might still be unforeseen delays. Despite this, I am excited about the training and eager to obtain my license so I can start working as a tour guide as soon as possible.

Tour guide for Italians

I worked with Gianni and Marco, two Italians, as their tour guide in Varanasi from the 19th to the 21st. They were referred to me by Giona, the Italian I had worked with the previous week. Gianni is involved in the events sector, and Marco is an architect. They were staying at the Ganges Views Hotel near Assi Ghat. With only two days in Varanasi, we couldn’t visit all the places we had planned. Unfortunately, we missed Tulsi Manas Temple, BHU Museum, and Kina Ram Monastery.

The weather was quite challenging with heavy rain, and the police had prohibited boat rides during their stay. However, we managed to take two short boat rides—from Assi Ghat to Pandey Ghat—one in the morning and one in the evening. We also attended a religious lecture at Marwari Sewa Sangh, which they enjoyed immensely. During their stay, they purchased several items including a Shivalingam, a bull statue, a large candle holder used for Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat, and various toys.