Tag Archives: varanasi

tourist guides work for free?

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The Value of a Guide: A Glimpse into India’s Tourism Reality

Something strange happened to me today that made me realize the current state of tourist guides in India. A few days ago, my brother, who works as an Italian tour escort, called to tell me that one of his friends from Varanasi wanted to start a travel agency and needed my advice. The friend had seen my website and was impressed, so I eventually got a call from him. He wanted my suggestions on unique tours that would attract foreign tourists to Varanasi.

I told him about the distinctive things I show my guests, such as roadside dental clinics, “bull shops,” “Facebook Baba,” and my special walking tours. I even briefly mentioned the concept of LGBT tourism. Everything was going well, and we had a great conversation until he suddenly told me he had a group of foreign tourists coming to Varanasi and needed a guide to show them around. I was about to tell him about the official Incredible India office in Varanasi, but what he said next truly shocked me.

He told me he had heard that tourist guides in Varanasi charge a fee for their work. I was stunned. “Where is a place that they don’t charge a fee?” I asked. He confidently replied that guides in cities like Agra and Delhi work for free. I asked him why anyone would work for free, and he didn’t know, but he was so sure because he had already used the services of such guides.

I knew exactly why some guides work for free. It’s because they are more interested in taking guests to shops than to tourist sites. I told him this, and he asked if there was no such thing in Varanasi. I said I was not aware of any guides who operate that way. I explained that there is a set rate decided by the Indian government, and in fact, Varanasi is the most expensive place to hire a guide because the tourism day begins before sunrise and ends after sunset, meaning guides are often paid for what amounts to three half-days.

Despite knowing that free guides take guests to shops instead of historical sites, he still insisted on finding one. I called my brother and asked if this practice was common in Delhi and Agra. He confirmed that yes, there are such guides who work for free. Once you’re with them, they start telling all kinds of wild stories and eventually take you to a shop where you end up buying something, and they get a commission. I couldn’t believe someone would think tourist guides are a free service.

His guests will be staying at the Radisson Hotel in Varanasi, a place only wealthy tourists can afford. I wondered why, after paying so much money and traveling so far, they would choose to meet a guide who works for free and takes them shopping instead of sightseeing. My brother and many other guides tell me the same story: they are still treated as “entertainers” who tell funny stories, not as respected professionals.

The Lack of Respect for Guides

There is no professional standard for tourist guides in India, and I see this firsthand. I am proud to be a tourist guide because it is a wonderful profession. I get to meet people from all over the world; I teach them about my culture, and they teach me about theirs. I make a good living by Indian standards. We are known for being punctual in a country where delays are common. We represent our country, which is a huge and important responsibility. The Ministry of Tourism even calls us “cultural ambassadors of India.”

I believe the government of India needs to take steps to ensure tourist guides are respected. During my training, I was told the Ministry of Tourism planned to start an annual award for the best guides from different regions to encourage professionalism and interest in the profession. The government’s plans sounded great, but when I look at what has actually been done for tourism, everything seems the same.

I recently visited the Incredible India website, the most famous tourism brand in the country, and was shocked to see how outdated it was. The importance of this brand is clear; if you google “India,” “India tourism,” or “tourism in India,” the first result is the Incredible India website. However, the information there seems from the time of World War II. They are still saluting the medal winners from the Commonwealth Games that happened years ago.

The site requests that tourists use only authorized guides but provides no list of them. There are awards mentioned, but no category for “Best Tourist Guide.” I don’t know when the government will take tourism seriously. Tourism already contributes 5.90% to our GDP, and this percentage could increase dramatically with just a few small changes. I don’t know when the government will start thinking about these issues, but they really need to.

Impact of my CJ report

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Sack Replaced with a Metal Box

Today, I feel genuinely happy and proud that my citizen report was taken seriously by the government and that action was finally taken against the corruption at Sarnath. When I visited the site to make a follow-up report, I was honestly shocked to see the scale of changes. Some of my colleagues had already mentioned improvements at Sarnath, but I was not expecting such a significant transformation. The first change I noticed was at the ticket counter itself. The staff was different—especially the main person involved in the earlier scam, who has since been transferred and later suspended (though I am not entirely sure about the suspension yet).

Sack is replaced with a metal box

New Tickets with Barcode and Unique Number

When I bought my ticket, I noticed the second major change: the ticket design. The new tickets now had a barcode and a unique serial number, making them traceable. The third change was at the gate, where the ticket checker was also a new face. He carefully tore the ticket into two parts, kept one half, and returned the other to me—exactly as the law requires. The fourth change came as a surprise. My camera was checked to determine whether it was for still photography or videography. Since filming requires an additional fee of Rs. 25, they were making sure nobody was shooting videos without paying.

new tickets with bar code and unique number

Metal Box Instead of Sack

The fifth and perhaps the most important change was that the old sack used to store tickets was gone. It had been replaced with a locked metal box. Once tickets went inside, there was no way to take them out and resell them. As I walked inside, I noticed more changes. There were more security guards on duty, and this time they were actively working. They patrolled continuously, stopped people from walking on the ruins, and even helped visitors. Everyone seemed alert and professional. The monument itself looked cleaner than I had ever seen it before. After spending about an hour walking around, I sat near the entrance gate to quietly observe the system. Every single ticket was checked, torn properly, and placed into the locked box. Another new rule was being enforced as well: people were not allowed to bring food inside. This has clearly helped reduce littering, keeping the site cleaner.

tickets were teard off

A Surprising Photograph

I wanted to document the new employee, but I wasn’t sure how to ask for his photo directly. So, I made a small plan with my friend. As I approached the exit, my friend pretended to ask me to get photographed in front of the entrance gate. While I was posing, something unexpected happened—the ticket checker himself called me over and asked to be photographed with me! He smiled, shook my hand, and posed happily for the photo. He had no idea that I was the person behind these changes. He didn’t know that his transfer to Varanasi was because of my report. He didn’t know that his chance of earning illegal money by reselling tickets was gone because of my work. I couldn’t help but laugh quietly to myself.

shaked hand happy cause he did not know that I was the who exposed the curroption

Feeling Proud

For a moment, I was nervous about being recognized, but none of the staff knew me since they were all new hires. In the end, I felt incredibly proud and relieved. Seeing real change on the ground made me believe in the power of speaking up.

Stupa at Sarnath

CNN-IBN broadcasted my follow-up report, and once again, I was reminded that raising your voice against corruption can make a difference.

Scam in ticketing at Sarnath exposed

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Exposing Corruption in Varanasi: My Experience with CNN IBN

A few weeks ago, CNN IBN contacted me regarding corruption stories from Varanasi. They explained that they run a program called Citizen Journalist, where ordinary people step forward as reporters to expose crimes and irregularities. I was already familiar with the show, as it’s quite popular in India, and I decided to contribute. They had found me through my blog, where I had previously written about several corruption cases. Like many other Indian citizens, I had witnessed corruption at almost every level of society, but now I finally had a platform to bring these stories to light.

Babu, Erica, Chitra and I

The Stories I Shared

I provided CNN IBN with four stories:

  1. Corruption in MNREGA implementation

  2. Corruption in Varanasi’s drinking water supply

  3. Irregularities in sewage treatment plants

  4. Encroachment of sacred ponds and the scam in ticketing at Sarnath

To strengthen these stories, they asked me to find people directly affected by these corrupt practices. Through Lok Samiti, I identified villagers suffering under MNREGA corruption. I also contacted Shanti Lal Jain, a social worker who had worked extensively on Ganga issues, to speak about sewage treatment plant corruption. For the ponds, I reached out to a retired engineer who had used the Right to Information Act to reveal illegal encroachments and obtained a High Court directive ordering restoration of ponds captured after 1957. The last story, however, was something I had personally experienced countless times—the scam at the ticketing counter in Sarnath.

explaning the corruption

The Scam at Sarnath

At Sarnath’s excavation site, ticket collectors were pocketing entire tickets instead of tearing them in half as required by law. The untouched tickets were then resold, generating illegal revenue. This practice was carried out openly, with the involvement of government employees and even some tourist guides who received a share of the profits. I was repeatedly offered participation in this scam but had always refused. As a guide, I have many opportunities to earn through commissions, but I have always believed in honest work.

This time, however, I saw a chance to do something meaningful. Still, I was worried about the risks—ASI (Archaeological Survey of India) could easily retaliate by canceling my tourist guide license. To be safe, I consulted my brother, who also works in the tourism industry. His advice was blunt but motivating: “Go and expose them.”

Collecting Evidence

CNN IBN asked me to gather proof before the crew arrived. My friend Babu and I went to Sarnath, where we filmed ticket collectors directly dropping tickets into a sack instead of tearing them. Later, when the CNN IBN crew reached Varanasi, they worked on the other stories first. Each story created an impact: the woman affected by MNREGA corruption received her salary, and the administration began looking into pond restoration.

new tickets with bar code and unique number

For the Sarnath story, I needed volunteers to act as tourists. I advertised on Couchsurfing and eventually chose a British couple staying at my guesthouse. On the filming day, we staged a visit. From a distance, the crew captured footage of the collectors keeping tickets whole. When we had enough evidence, we confronted them on camera. As soon as the ticket collector saw the camera, he hurriedly tore the ticket and returned half to the volunteer, trying to cover his tracks. We immediately checked the sack and found over 500 fresh tickets—clear evidence of resale.

volunteer Erica

The Confrontation

Soon after, an ASI employee from the ticket counter arrived. When questioned, he gave absurd explanations, claiming Sri Lankan tourists and young couples often discarded tickets, which staff collected and tore later. These excuses were laughable, especially since I had witnessed them reselling tickets myself. Later, a female ASI employee openly admitted on camera that the scam had been happening for years and that every government employee at the excavation site was involved. This confirmation gave me immense relief and confidence. We also attempted to speak to the officer in charge of Sarnath, but he literally ran away upon seeing us.

the officer in charge’s office

Public Support and Aftermath

Filming at the entrance drew large crowds. At one point, I was surrounded by nearly 100 people chanting slogans against corruption. Their support gave me strength in what was otherwise a very tense moment. The next morning, every local newspaper reported the story, though none mentioned me or CNN IBN directly. The officer in charge claimed ignorance and promised action, which I knew was just a cover-up. Nevertheless, I urged CNN IBN to escalate the matter to ASI’s regional office in Patna and the head office in Delhi.

filming

I now feel more secure, especially since an ASI officer herself admitted to the scam on record. For me, the greatest reward was not media recognition, but the overwhelming public support and the satisfaction of exposing a system that had been cheating tourists and staining the reputation of Sarnath for years.

show recording

work with Richard Dawkins

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Working with Richard Dawkins: A Meaningful Experience

It was an opportunity I never expected: working personally with Richard Dawkins. BBC World and Channel 4 were collaborating on a documentary called The Meaning of Life, and Mr. Dawkins was the host. Ten days before the shoot was scheduled in Varanasi, I received a call from the director. They needed me to organize their work because a production company they had hired in Delhi had promised to manage things but had failed to do so. They found my blog and reached out to me to coordinate everything in Varanasi.

The crew

The crew was looking for people who had been discriminated against for reasons they couldn’t control. They chose two groups to feature: Dalits and Hijras. They wanted to find a Dalit man who had suffered due to his caste but had overcome the struggle to build a stable life. They also wanted to interview Hijras to hear their stories of facing discrimination because of their sexuality. My job was to research and find the right people and then schedule the interviews.

Having done this kind of research before, I knew exactly where to go. It didn’t take much effort; a few phone calls and everything was organized on my end. Two days before the crew was due to arrive, a man from the Delhi production company came to Varanasi to “check if everything was alright.” It seemed he was just there to prove that they had been working hard. He wanted to meet the people I had chosen for the documentary.

He was a nice person, but he was constantly trying to prove how experienced and knowledgeable he was. I wasn’t impressed because, first, he had taken on a responsibility he couldn’t fulfill, and second, he kept trying to impose his ideas on me and the people I had selected. I knew exactly what was needed because I was in direct contact with the show’s director. Finally, the crew arrived, and I was beyond excited to see Mr. Dawkins. It was funny because I hadn’t even heard of him before, but my Western friends were all like, “He’s one of the most famous scientists in the world—a celebrity, a star!”

I read his Wikipedia article and realized I was about to meet someone truly important. I was incredibly excited but also very nervous. It was the first time in my life I felt nervous working with a Westerner. I’ve always been more comfortable with Western colleagues and have had limited experience working under Indian bosses, which makes me a bit nervous. This was the first time in my entire professional career that I was seriously nervous.

When I first saw Mr. Dawkins, I couldn’t even bring myself to shake his hand. He was very reserved and serious, even with the crew. The director and crew would plan the shots, and he would simply follow their instructions. He would either come on camera to interview people or sit alone and observe his surroundings. He truly carried himself like a superstar.

Finally, I mustered the courage to go and say hello. It was perhaps the second or third time in my life I had ever called someone “Sir.” I had planned what I was going to say, but I was so nervous I forgot everything and ended up saying, “Sir, I read a Wikipedia article about you a few days ago, and I am very impressed with your work. I think you’ve done a really good job.” I immediately thought, “How could a person like me evaluate the work of a scientist like Mr. Dawkins? Hahahaha.” Mr. Dawkins’ response was very polite: “Yes, I also think so.“

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atheism

Not knowing what else to say, I started telling him how my Western friends were huge fans and what they had told me when I first said I was working with him. For the interview, I had chosen a Dalit boy named Mahendra from a village called Mehdiganj, about 20 kilometers from Varanasi. Mahendra works as a teacher for an NGO called Lok Samiti and is an expert on the RTI (Right to Information). Everything was set to start filming, and they needed a translator. They asked the guy from the Delhi production house to translate, but he immediately surrendered. I am 100% sure he did it because he was also too nervous.

 

He grew up in Delhi, attended an English-medium school, and spoke English fluently—his Indian English was much better than mine—but he still didn’t want to translate. He wanted me to do it. It was the first time in my life I said I didn’t want to translate because I was also so nervous. The crew was stuck between him and me. He was smoking like a chimney, and my heart was beating like an Indian train. The crew finally requested me to translate, and I had to agree.

I didn’t know how it would go, but I started. I listened to every word very carefully and did my best to translate. In the end, everything went well. The interview was great, and I was appreciated for my research in finding the right person and for my translation work. I was happy and proud. This feeling of happiness and pride gave me enough confidence to ask Mr. Dawkins for a picture. Fortunately, he came to me and asked to take a picture with the Varanasi crew. I was so happy to have a picture with him.

The next day, the second interview was with a group of Hijras. We arrived, everything was set, and we completed the interview. We had also organized a dance performance for them since this is part of their work—they perform traditional dances, sing traditional songs, and bless people. Hijras have a reputation for being “naughty” with their clients, tickling them, jumping on them, and sometimes even going nude in front of people. During the performance, Mr. Dawkins was sitting on a chair, watching everything as it was being filmed.

The Hijras asked me if they should “play” with Mr. Dawkins, which meant tickling him, kissing him, or asking him to dance. I asked the director, who said it “didn’t sound bad.” I gave the Hijras the signal, and two of them went up to Mr. Dawkins and started doing all the “naughty” things. I could easily see his face turn red with anger. As soon as the first performance was over, he asked the crew to take him to his taxi. I was a little concerned he was angry, but the crew said it was fine. During the second performance, the whole crew danced with the Hijras and had a lot of fun.

The work in Varanasi was finally done. I had spent hours watching and listening to a person like Mr. Dawkins, who is very controversial for his ideas on atheism and his strong stance against religion and the existence of gods. I grew up in a country that is the birthplace of three major world religions. As a Hindu, I was raised with the belief that there are 33 million gods and goddesses. I grew up in Varanasi, a city known as the cultural and religious hub of Hinduism, where religion is a serious part of life.

I have always believed that religion is like a government, a serious belief, a Windows operating system for a computer. If it’s corrupt, we need to change it or replace it with a virus-free version. I believe in the Vedas, which provide the true essence of Hinduism, and I like being a Hindu. The best things about Hinduism, in my opinion, are its openness, flexibility, and respect for everyone—and that’s how I like to be (these ideas exist in true Hinduism, not the version practiced today). However, Mr. Dawkins was very extreme in his views. I respect his ideas on the gene-centered view of evolution, the concept of the meme, and his advocacy for atheism and science, but I wondered if it was right to blame a whole religion just by focusing on its negative parts.

Mahendra

His questions to the Dalit boy were something like: “Do you think you were discriminated against in society? Do you think you were discriminated against because of your caste? Do you think this idea of casteism comes from the Hindu religion? And finally, do you admit that religion is bad?” How can someone declare a religion bad just by asking these four questions in five minutes? I wondered why he didn’t ask how the idea of casteism has changed over time, or if he was even aware of it. Maybe he was just told there’s huge discrimination based on caste and prepared a few questions based on that.

Mahendra with Mr. Dawkins

I believe the world is about change. Things have changed, are changing, and will continue to change. I would not object if Mr. Dawkins started a new religion with his own ideas, but to so extremely state that the faith of over 95% of the world’s population is bad is something I can’t respect. I respect Mr. Dawkins and his ideas, and he is still a kind of superhero to me. But I would have respected him more if he had been more open to looking for the reasons behind the changes in Hindu society and then said, “Look, these are the reasons for the discrimination against this Dalit boy, and if this is what happens, then why not become an atheist?”

Mahendra with Alison, the director of the show

I have no authority to question Mr. Dawkins’s style of working, but I personally believe he should become a little more open to other ideas that have shaped society for endless time. Nevertheless, it was a truly awesome experience to work with a superstar like Mr. Dawkins, who has brought about positive change in the world. I really wish I could work with him again.

Nandan standing with Richard Dawkins in a garden

Richard Dawkins and I

Interview with Arun Pathak

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The Politician Who Protests with His Life

Arun Pathak is a politician and social worker from Varanasi, known worldwide for his extreme style of protest—even resorting to suicide attempts. His protest against the film Water in the year 2000 brought him global attention. I’d heard about him for years, had seen him in my neighborhood, and had read about him in newspapers and magazines countless times. But I finally had the chance to meet him last year while working with Irene, a researcher from Italy.

Mr. Pathak addressing a public meeting

When Irene asked me to arrange a meeting with Mr. Pathak, I wasn’t sure I could do it. Arun Pathak had become a very powerful politician, and I thought he would be like any other Indian politician who doesn’t have time for people after elections. My impression of him, however, was completely wrong. I was able to arrange the meeting, and I was genuinely surprised by how helpful and welcoming he was. Irene and I interviewed him at least 20 times over two months, and he was always so gracious. He treated us very well and answered all our questions. I learned a great deal about him during those interviews.

Mr. Pathak with his security guards

I was truly surprised to hear his stories about his politics, protest style, and struggles. Mr. Pathak’s family was very poor. His father worked as a storekeeper at Jain Dharamshala in Varanasi, and Pathak said they often didn’t have enough money for two meals a day, going to bed on an empty stomach many times. He had to stop his studies and was sent to his uncle’s house in the village because his family couldn’t afford to send him to school.

Mr. Pathak at a meeting

He returned to Varanasi after only a few months because his uncle wasn’t nice to him either. Pathak finally enrolled in a municipal school, which were free but often considered a waste of time. When he was just 14, he went to a local shop and asked for a job because he wanted to earn some money to help his family. The shopkeeper laughed at him, saying he couldn’t employ a 14-year-old student. Arun Pathak explained that he only wanted a part-time job in the evenings.

Honored by Sankaracharya

After much pleading, the shopkeeper agreed to hire him. Pathak worked for one month, and when he received his first salary of only 30 rupees, he was so happy to share it with his family. But as he was walking home, a few bullies stopped him and took his money, forcing him to buy them alcohol. After drinking, they all went together and beat up his family. Mr. Pathak says his family was beaten because they couldn’t pay their apartment rent on time.

Mr. Pathak in 2002

At that time, a political party called Shiv Sena was very popular in India for its work with the youth. Shiv Sena has always been known as a right wing Hindu party. There was a rumor then that Shiv Sena was giving a pistol to all new members, and after hearing this, Mr. Pathak decided to join so he could get a pistol to kill the people who had beaten his family. Since it was just a rumor, he never received a pistol. But Mr. Pathak proudly says he found nuclear bombs instead of pistols in Shiv Sena.

Arrest

When he talks about nuclear bombs, he’s referring to the hardcore people of Shiv Sena. He says he had always been a leader, even in school, and after joining Shiv Sena, he once again became popular due to his leadership qualities. Many people in his party became his fans, ready to die or kill for him. He organized numerous programs under the banner of Shiv Sena and became very popular. After 11 years of hard work, he became the district chief of Shiv Sena in 2000.

Mr. Pathak’s priests

His protests were always massive and a topic of conversation in society. His protests against the films Water, Girlfriend, and Chori-Chori Chupke-Chupke were talked about all over the world. Shiv Sena has always protested against Valentine’s Day celebrations in India, and he also organized huge protests against the festival in Varanasi. His protests against liquor stores, corruption, and several other issues also gained immense popularity. Soon, Mr. Pathak became a major name throughout India.

Hunger strike

Mr. Pathak has always been known for his extreme methods. He has consumed poison five times to protest. Once, he cut the veins in his right hand after being stopped from entering a temple. When I asked him why he did such things, he laughed and said, “Nobody listens to the poor. If you are poor and powerless, this is what you do to make people listen to you.” He proudly says that he is the inventor of staging suicide as a form of protest.

I had read many articles claiming the substance he consumed wasn’t actually poison. When I asked Mr. Pathak about it, he showed me his palm, which sweats all the time. He said his body developed this problem after he first consumed poison. He showed me his medical prescription, which states he can’t eat heavy or spicy food and must drink filtered water—all due to the effects of the poison he consumed so many times.

Distributing books in Mumbai

He says it wasn’t just him; others also consumed poison or tried to burn themselves at his request for a protest. After saying this, he called over one of his workers named Bulli. Bulli is 29 years old and consumed poison when he was only 14, to protest against the film Chor-Chori Chupke-Chupke. I asked Bulli several times when I met him alone why he did it, and each time his answer was the same: he did not know. He always says, “Mr. Pathak asked me to, so I did it.” I asked him if he regretted it, and he replied, “Why would I regret it? It was Bhaiya’s (brother’s) order. He knows what’s best for me.”

at a school

I was shocked to hear this. How can one person have such control over another? The bigger shock is people’s unwavering belief in Mr. Pathak. He worked with Shiv Sena until 2003 and then left because he was unhappy with how the party was discriminating against certain communities. Shiv Sena was beating up and kicking North Indians out of Maharashtra, a situation that deeply hurt Mr. Pathak, and he decided to leave the party. He formed his own political party and ran it for four years. Finally, in 2007, he realized he needed a bigger platform to raise his voice and fight against major evils. He joined the Bahujan Samaj Party, which is known for working with lower-caste communities and fighting against corruption.

Attack

Again, due to his leadership qualities, he was appointed as a co-coordinator for two state assembly seats in Varanasi. During his tenure, he made the Bahujan Samaj Party very popular in Varanasi, where it had previously had no presence. For the past year, he has been somewhat away from politics, devoting his time entirely to social service and religion. He says he’s conducting research on the outcomes of religious practices. To do this, he has hired 11 priests who perform Vedic yagyas (rituals) every day.

distributing books to poor students

These yagyas and other rituals have been going on continuously since October 2010. He says he wants to reveal the truth to society. If there is no outcome from such practices, people should not waste their time. But if performing rituals truly works, they should be done correctly. He believes that rituals don’t seem helpful nowadays because they were created thousands of years ago and need to be changed to fit the times, and he wants to discover what that change should be.

offering food to poor

I have been to Mr. Pathak’s place several times, and every time, I see people coming to him for help. He makes some kind of donation almost every day. I’ve seen him offer food to people with leprosy, the blind, or the physically challenged. I’ve seen him pay school fees for poor students or buy them books. I’ve seen him pay for poor people’s weddings. I think he makes every possible kind of donation. He never wears a new piece of clothing until he has donated the same item to a few poor people. I still remember when he bought 12 tracksuits: 11 were donated to beggars on the street first, and only then did he wear one.

offering food to blinds

I have seen people following him everywhere; I’m sure he has thousands of fans in Varanasi alone. He’s like a star in Varanasi, always surrounded by a minimum of six security guards. He says there’s a threat to his life because so many people don’t like his popularity, so he needs security guards with him all the time. After saying this, he paused for a moment and said, “Can you imagine? I started working at the age of 14 because of my poor family background. My first salary was only 30 rupees, and now I have to spend a good amount of money just on my security.”

offering food to lepers

It is definitely a huge change for anyone, and Mr. Pathak certainly deserves it. I have now met Mr. Pathak several times, and I like him a lot. I admire his work style, his dedication, his understanding of society, and his incredibly helpful nature. I am sure I have become his fan and would love to see him progress in his life. I personally believe he is a thousand times better leader and politician than anyone I have ever met. Our society definitely needs people like him.

Shivratri in Varanasi

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Girls playing Goddesses

Shivratri is the wedding anniversary of Lord Shiva and the biggest festival in Varanasi. This year, it was celebrated on the 30th of March. The date is determined by the Hindu lunar calendar, so it changes every year. As per the calendar, Mahashivaratri falls on the fourteenth day of the dark fortnight of Phalguna (February/March). I had always wanted to document this festival, and this year I finally got the opportunity. Several temples in Varanasi organize a wedding parade of Lord Shiva on Shivratri. I went to a very big temple called Mahamrityunjay Temple, which is famous for its parade.

Girls playing Goddesses

The ghosts

I tried to contact the mahant of the temple, who was supposed to be one of the organizers, or at least an important member of the committee. But to my surprise, he told me straight away that he didn’t know anything about who was organizing it. I was shocked. I then asked several other people at the temple, but nobody seemed willing to say who was behind the event or who I should approach to get filming permission. Very strange people. I spoke with at least 20 people, and the response was always the same—they didn’t know who was organizing the parade.

The ghosts

Goddess Shitla

Finally, I gave up on this temple and went to another one called Tilbhandeshwar Temple, which is also one of the biggest Shiva temples in Varanasi. The people there were much more helpful. They gave me all the information I needed and permitted me to come on the festival day and film inside the temple. I was really happy to have their permission. I arrived on the festival day around 8 am and was surprised to see that preparations had already been underway for a long time. Hundreds of people were at the temple, dressing up and getting ready for the parade.

Goddess Shitla

Baby Shiva

Since the festival is so important to the people of Varanasi, everyone wanted to participate. A committee was formed to choose the right characters for the parade. There were all kinds of characters, including gods, goddesses, demons, and ghosts. This was because Shiva is believed to have all kinds of followers—even ghosts and demons—who also took part in his wedding. The atmosphere was truly amazing, full of excitement and energy.

baby Shiva

Makeup

There were four makeup artists working non-stop on the characters, and there was always a line of people waiting for their turn. My friend Lane, from Seattle, had come with me just to watch the parade but ended up playing Parshuram! The organizers were so delighted to see a foreigner that they asked him if he’d like to be part of the parade, and as usual, Lane agreed. I interviewed several characters, and the best conversation was with the man playing Lord Shiva. He was fascinating. He told me he had been playing Shiva for the past eight years. When I asked why it was always him, he explained that he takes the role very seriously and calls Lord Shiva into his body, which earns him respect from the community. People actually want him to play Shiva year after year.

makeup

Lord Shiva on his horse

Even more interesting was the fact that his whole family was involved. His real son was playing baby Shiva. After his makeup was done, the man playing Lord Shiva went to the temple for blessings. This is the moment when he is believed to invite the spirit of Shiva into his body. The parade began right after this. All the characters rode on different animals and horses as the procession moved through many neighborhoods. I don’t know how, but thousands of people joined the parade. There was loud music, people dancing, snake charmers performing, and firecrackers going off everywhere to celebrate.

Lord Shiva on his horse

Free bhang

There were also free bhang stalls. Since bhang is traditionally offered at Shiva temples, it was distributed as a blessing. The parade lasted more than four hours before finally returning to the Tilbhandeshwar Temple around 6 PM. Once back at the temple, the man playing Shiva performed a symbolic wedding ceremony with his real wife, representing the marriage of Shiva and Parvati. After the rituals, the event concluded. It was incredible to see how people treated the characters as if they were the deities themselves. Many touched their feet in reverence. I was thrilled to have documented the whole event—and yes, I filmed it too! So happy to have experienced it.

free Bhang

 

work with VPRO

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Working with VPRO – A Dutch Broadcasting Experience in Varanasi

I had the opportunity to work with VPRO, a broadcasting corporation from the Netherlands, on a travel show designed for children between the ages of eight and fourteen. My responsibility was to arrange everything for them – hotels, transportation, local assistants, and most importantly, finding the right characters for the show. They shared with me only a general idea of the kinds of characters they were looking for, and it was my job to research, approach families, and schedule interviews. A month before filming, an employee of VPRO named Barbara Smith visited me in Varanasi to prepare. Since this was a children’s show, they were specifically looking for children with unique backgrounds and stories.

When I asked why they chose Varanasi, Barbara explained that they were fascinated by its cultural diversity and believed that they could capture the essence of India just within this city. I completely agreed — Varanasi is a place where India’s traditions, diversity, and everyday life all intersect.

The Search for Characters

Finding the right characters was more challenging than I expected. Initially, I thought it would be easy, but once I started meeting children and families, I realized they were suspicious and hesitant about appearing on a foreign TV show. Still, after some effort, we managed to identify fascinating children:

  • A boy who practiced Malkhamb (traditional pole gymnastics)

  • A glamorous Bollywood-style girl from a wealthy family with dreams of becoming an actress or model

  • A bright girl from a poor family studying at an NGO school

  • A young couple, representing teenage relationships

Beyond this list, I also looked out for other interesting local characters. While walking on the ghats, I met a young snake charmer. The crew loved the idea, so he also became part of the show.

The NGO Dilemma

Barbara already knew about an NGO called Saraswati Education Center, a yoga school that claimed to run educational programs for underprivileged children. She asked me to take her there to plan filming. At first, the place looked promising, and its owner, Sumit, appeared genuine. But Barbara insisted on making a surprise visit, and what we discovered shocked us — the claims of dozens of children studying there turned out to be false. We found only four or five children, mostly playing with foreigners, not learning.

Barbara was disappointed and decided to cancel their involvement. Luckily, I had already introduced her to Dora and Attila, founders of Chance India, another NGO I was working with at the time. Their program was authentic, and Barbara quickly chose a girl from Chance India to feature in the show. The most difficult character to find was the Bollywood dancer girl, as most families refused permission for their daughters to perform on television. Fortunately, I found a wonderful girl whose supportive parents agreed to let her participate.

Filming the Show

The film crew arrived a month later. At the last moment, they decided to drop the Malkhamb boy, saying it wasn’t “traditional enough.” Instead, they wanted a child who practiced wrestling at an Akhada, which was easy to arrange at one located near Assi. I also gave the crew walking tours of Varanasi, introducing them to the city’s vibrant life — the ghats, sadhus, cows, street scenes, and everyday chaos. We filmed for five days, capturing so much material that the team said they had enough content to make two episodes instead of one. That was the best compliment I could have received, and it made me very happy.

Wrapping Up

After finishing the project, we celebrated with a farewell party at the Radisson Hotel in Varanasi. Just before leaving India, the crew received an urgent call from their producer in the Netherlands. A commercial they had filmed in Rajasthan was rejected, and they had to reshoot with a rural Indian girl immediately. They asked me for help. Luckily, I managed to arrange it on the way to the airport the next morning — a perfect last-minute solution. The show was scheduled to air in February 2012, and I couldn’t wait to see it on television. Working with VPRO was not just another assignment, but a wonderful experience that combined cultural exchange, problem-solving, and unforgettable teamwork.

Crew members and I at the party after finishing the project

work with DePauw university

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My Work with DePauw University, Indiana (USA)

I had the opportunity to work with DePauw University from Indiana, USA, when Mr. Rajai Bimbo, the Assistant Director of the Department of Civic, Global, and Professional Opportunities, contacted me regarding his students’ one-week trip to Varanasi. He reached out because of my work with the LGBT community in India and also showed interest in learning about the NGOs active in Varanasi.

Although Banaras Hindu University (BHU) was officially their host institution, the team was not satisfied with the way BHU professors and a local contact, Mr. Ramuji, were handling communication. They often failed to respond on time, and at one point Mr. Bimbo even asked me what I could offer to the students for a week-long program. This clearly showed that they had considered trusting me with the entire program. However, since BHU and Ramuji were “big names,” I eventually didn’t receive the full responsibility.

Mr. Bimbo even told me that he had requested BHU professors and Ramuji to collaborate with me so that we could jointly deliver the program, but they declined. Their response was that my work was “good, but not good enough” to be part of their official arrangement. Despite this, Mr. Bimbo made sure I was involved in some capacity. He invited me to spend time with the students, especially to talk about LGBT rights in India and activism in Varanasi.

With only a few hours to prepare, I put together a meaningful program for them. I organized a visit to Lok Samiti in Mehdiganj, arranged an interview with Mr. Nandlal Master, and guided the students through a local Indian village. They also visited a Coca-Cola–affected site where they learned about the community’s struggle against the company. At the MNREGA site, where a canal was being dug, students interacted with farmers and laborers, which they found deeply engaging.

Working with students has always been my priority, and it remains my dream to organize university-level experiential programs in my city. Unfortunately, due to local politics and monopoly in this field, I wasn’t given the larger responsibility with DePauw. The activities I offered were far more enriching than what BHU and Ramuji provided, but because of institutional politics, the students missed out on experiencing the best of what Varanasi had to offer.

Still, I take pride in the fact that both Mr. Bimbo and the students were happy with my contribution. For me, that was the biggest achievement.

Hotel Haifa in Varanasi

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Hotel Haifa Incident

Hotel Haifa is located near Assi Ghat in Varanasi. They are recommended on several online travel forums and have a good reputation in the market, which is why they are usually full. I also used to recommend this hotel, but I was unaware of their strange business policy – they do not allow tourist guides inside. This came to light when an American university student group, staying at Hotel Haifa, invited me to meet them. We were sitting in the hotel’s restaurant, talking, when the owner, Mr. Ravi Mishra, suddenly appeared to introduce himself to the group.

After a brief conversation with them, he turned to me and asked how I had come there. I explained that the group had invited me because they wanted to talk with me. Hearing this, he became upset and told me clearly: “Listen, I want to make this clear to you – I do not allow guides and outsiders to enter my hotel.” I was shocked. He repeated that tourist guides are not allowed to meet clients inside his hotel and asked me not to come again. After speaking with me, he told the same thing to the group in front of me. They all looked at me with surprised faces and later apologized for what had happened.

This was the first time in my life that someone had insulted me so directly. I felt both shocked and guilty, and we ended the meeting immediately. Later, I spoke to a few people who had previously stayed at Hotel Haifa, and one of them told me: “The restaurant staff was eager to please, but I felt slightly intimidated by the management’s attitude. They promote their own guides, money-changing, and travel agent services, which explains their behavior with you. As an American traveling alone, I liked having one trusted person I could count on, but they seem to want to be the guest’s only resource, or push their own network of touts.”

Hearing this made things clearer. It seems the hotel does not want locals or independent guides to interact with their guests, possibly to keep control over all services and ensure the clients depend only on them. But to me, this feels unfair and deeply problematic. I could not help but compare it to the signs from British colonial times that read “Dogs and Indians not allowed.” That was the early 1900s, yet here in the 21st century, in an independent India with its own government, I experienced something that felt very similar.

Do you really think such a hotel deserves support? Personally, I will no longer recommend Hotel Haifa, and I have decided not to work with anyone who chooses to stay there

Disco in Varanasi

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New Year’s Eve at Agni Disco, Varanasi

Usually, I go out with my friends to celebrate New Year, but this year I couldn’t because my friends were not organized. I thought, why not explore something new in Varanasi? That’s when I remembered a disco called Agni, which had opened the previous year. I had only heard about it but didn’t know its exact location. I asked my friends, but they didn’t know either. Finally, I took my bike and went searching for it on the evening of the 31st. I reached a bar, asked about the disco, and fortunately, they knew the address.

When I first went there, they told me the timings – open from 12 to 4 in the afternoon and again from 8 to 11 in the evening. They asked me to return at 8 o’clock. Later, I went back with a friend around 9, only to find out that they were allowing couples only. I was really disappointed. I asked if there was any chance later in the night, and they told me to come back after an hour. So, my friend and I went to a nearby alcohol shop, had a beer, and then returned. Luckily, this time they allowed me in.

The entry fee was Rs. 1000 for couples and Rs. 700 for single men like me, while entry was free for girls. The ticket included two beers, but inside they gave only two small glasses instead of a bottle or a can. I had been to several discos and nightclubs in bigger Indian cities before, but this was my first disco experience in Varanasi – and it turned out to be really interesting.

I noticed a few differences compared to discos in big cities. Usually, discos in metros serve good-quality alcohol and have plenty of stock, but here the options were very limited. Most of the alcohol was either cheap, very common, or just lower middle-quality brands – nothing like what I’d seen elsewhere. Another big difference was the music. In Varanasi’s disco, they played only Bollywood songs. Honestly, I enjoyed it because I understand and like Bollywood more than Western music, but it surprised me since in big cities I rarely see discos playing Indian pop or Bollywood.

The crowd was also different. Discos in big cities usually have at least 100 people even on normal days, but here on New Year’s Eve there were hardly 50 people. Most were young boys, though a few girls were also there. Varanasi is a very male-dominated city, and you rarely see girls in short skirts or sleeveless clothes. But at Agni, for the first time in my life, I saw girls in short skirts, drinking, and smoking – something very rare to see in Varanasi. Boys and girls were dancing together, away from their families.

Perhaps many of them were not locals. Varanasi attracts students from all over India, many of whom live in hostels, so I think they were hostel students enjoying their freedom. It’s hard for me to imagine local parents in Varanasi allowing their daughters to go to a disco with male friends. Still, I liked seeing them together. I was also curious about women’s safety at the disco, and after spending nearly three hours there, it seemed to be safe for women as well.

Surprisingly, I even saw a few families with kids. Normally the disco closes at 11 pm, but because it was New Year’s Eve, they stayed open until 1 am. Overall, it was a very nice and memorable experience. I enjoyed it a lot and would definitely like to visit again on regular days with my friends or even family.

Happy New Year 2011!