Assistance for Children of Kiln Workers

I have a friend who is a social worker by profession and works with the children of kiln workers in Varanasi. The laborers who operate the kilns primarily come from rural or tribal areas of Bihar, Chhattisgarh, and Jharkhand. They migrate with their entire families to work sites in Uttar Pradesh and other regions. They reside at the construction sites in makeshift brick houses lacking cement plaster or a permanent roof. These homes are constructed by stacking bricks and using a tin sheet as a makeshift roof.

Mr. Amit Rajbhar with his wife

This is a seasonal job that begins in October after the monsoon ends and concludes in late June with the monsoon’s arrival. The work hours are demanding, with shifts starting at 10 PM and lasting until 4 PM the following day – an 18-hour workday. Workers typically take a short break, no longer than two hours, for meals during this period. Everyone in the family contributes, including young children as young as six or seven. While adults handle the primary tasks, children assist in various ways. With both parents working long hours, childcare and cooking fall primarily on the children.

Children of Kiln workers

Imagine enduring such grueling work hours under the open sky. The conditions are extreme. During March, April, May, and June, temperatures soar between 38 and 52 degrees Celsius (102 and 125 Fahrenheit). In contrast, December, January, and February bring frigid temperatures ranging from 35 to 5 degrees Celsius (95 to 40 Fahrenheit). The scorching heat, particularly in May, June, and July, is often accompanied by intense, deadly winds. Yet, these laborers are forced to toil under these inhumane conditions.

Look at their house in the background

My friend, Amit Rajbhar, has dedicated himself to working with the children of kiln workers. He strives to keep them engaged in productive activities. He runs a non-formal education center offering daily classes in basic subjects like math, Hindi, science, general knowledge, and hygiene. Amit’s goal is to create a brighter future for the next generation. He acknowledges that the immediate benefits for these children might be limited, but he believes his efforts will positively impact their children.

Brick making

Amit believes that educating these children will break the cycle of child labor. He shared a heartwarming story about a family he worked with in 2022. The following year, their children refused to return to work, expressing a desire to attend school instead. They asked their parents to continue working in Varanasi while they stayed with grandparents in their village to pursue education. This remarkable outcome exemplifies the positive impact of Amit’s work on breaking the cycle of child labor within a family.

Children of the kiln workers

I was familiar with Amit’s work but had never visited his site. When a guest expressed interest in helping underprivileged children, I decided to take her there. I was deeply shocked by the conditions and the children’s stories. It was late December, with temperatures around 10 degrees and cloudy skies. None of the children wore warm clothes or shoes, playing barefoot in the open.

Sweet distribution

I was heartbroken and struggled to hold back tears. Their stories haunted me, and I desperately wanted to help. Providing warm clothes and shoes seemed like an immediate need. I explored ways to raise funds for these essentials, including reaching out to my contacts. Unfortunately, despite promises from a few, I couldn’t secure the necessary funds. My efforts were met with constant setbacks.

I stayed in constant contact with Amit about the children. Their stories were constantly on my mind. I was determined to help them in 2023. The monsoon of 2023 finally arrived, and the families returned to their villages in Bihar, Chhattisgarh, and Jharkhand. Amit informed me about the start of kiln operations in Varanasi and the families’ expected return in late September. I visited them in late October and began planning a cloth supply for them.

I was thinking about whom to ask for help and suddenly a name clicked in my mind Mr. Amit Marathe whom I met in Varanasi in September 2023. He was an IT professional from Pune but was living in the US. I met with him when he was touring Varanasi and I worked with him as his guide in Varanasi and Ayodhya. I get to meet new people from all over the world but his name clicked in my mind first because of the kind of experience I had with him.

He came from a lower-middle-class family in Pune. His father drove a tuk-tuk. After attending a regular government school and overcoming challenges, he eventually achieved success. His humble background gave him a deep understanding of poverty. He often discussed India’s problems, such as poverty and corruption. Despite living in the US, he actively participated in Indian cultural activities. He was a very proud Indian with a strong desire to help others.

I thought I should ask him if he knew anyone involved in charity work in India. I explained the situation of those kids to him. I didn’t expect him to fund the kids, but after hearing their stories, he asked how much money was needed. He asked me to wait a few minutes and then sent me a receipt for the money transferred into my account. Mr. Amit told me he often does charity work in India and that I should have mentioned the kids when he was touring with me.

It was incredibly kind of him to immediately provide funds for the children’s clothes and other necessities. Finding such a supporter made me incredibly happy and brought tears to my eyes. I imagined the children’s faces when they received the clothes and shoes. I called Amit, my social worker friend, to determine the age group and number of children. The next day, I went to the market to buy warm clothes and shoes, including jackets, warm innerwear, gloves, socks, shoes, and woolen caps.

Bag of supplies

Now I had enough money for all those kids; in fact, the money given by Mr. Amit from the US was sufficient to support even more children. I went to the work site with all the supplies. As soon as the kids heard I had lots of gifts for them, they jumped with joy. Their happiness was indescribable. I distributed everything among them and had also brought sweets and samosas that we enjoyed together. It was a truly wonderful experience that will stay with me forever.

Mr. Amit, his wife and kids

I had some money left from the fund, which I used to buy woolen caps for the children at Asha Samajik Vidyalay, another non-profit run by my friend Mr. Nandlal Master. The kids there were equally delighted to receive the caps. I hope to continue doing this every year or whenever needed. A heartfelt thank you to Mr. Amit Marathe from the US for his generous support and to Mr. Amit Rajbhar for his care for the children.

Kids at Asha Samajik Vidyalay

Boat ride in Varanasi

Ganga Cruise Alaknanda

Tourism is life line of Varanasi and biggest attraction for tourists has always been Kashi Vishwanath Temple and the river Ganga. I can’t even think of any tourist of pilgrim coming to Varanasi without having desire to at least visit Kashi Vishwanath Temple and have at least one boat ride on the river. As per the data of UP Tourism board nearly 7 million tourists had visited Varanasi in the 2017 and the number is growing every year. But because of bad infrastructure Varanasi was not able to impress tourists and pilgrims as much as it should have done. The city was a complete mess until 2014. Luckily Varanasi elected Mr. Narendra Modi as the member of parliament from Varanasi and he is also the current Prime Minister of India now.

Ganga Cruise Alaknanda

During his tenure of past 4 years this city has changed a lot. They worked a lot for cleanliness under Swatch Bharat Mission which had huge positive impact on the city. Mr. Modi always talks about tourism hence he personally took interest in developing tourism facilities in Varanasi. And the most recent change is Ganga Cruise. We had small boats (hand rowing and engine run both) which can handle 4-6 people. Hand rowing boats are fine but the there was a huge increase in number of engine boats which had basically ruined the whole experience. It is very loud and since it is run on a diesel engine it creates huge pollution. People want to have peace when they go on a boat but these boats were very bad.

Ganga Cruise Alaknanda

I have had so many guests who were disappointed with the boats. If fact they were willing to pay extra to have a bigger, safer and comfortable boat but it was not possible at all because we did not have any other option. But finally we have Ganga cruise as well which will leave positive impact on tourism in Varanasi and will definitely attract more tourists. The government has started this new cruise named Alaknanda and I have been told that it is a double-decker cruise ship which will be able to carry more than 100 passengers at any given time. The liner is equipped with 60 luxurious sofas to make your voyage incredibly comfortable and have eco-friendly bio-toilets. It also has an extensively equipped kitchen which will serve both veg and non-veg dishes to please your taste buds.

Ganga Cruise Alaknanda

The lower deck of the cruise is fully air-conditioned and has a small stage which boosts all the needed multimedia functionality. To keep you connected to the modern world it also offers free on-board WiFi. The upper deck is a restaurant and will let you enjoy the view while hogging on your favorite food! The cruise is even equipped with numerous safety features and an on-board lifeguard for emergencies. When Cabinet Minister Mr. Nitin Gadhkari proposed the idea of Motorways, many People mocked him….but look at it….it is indeed happening…..it is the future.

 

 

Blogging

I started to blog about six years ago and I have always enjoyed it so much. In fact blogging changed my whole life: it improved my writing, my thinking, increased my social networking and got me a lot of attention. In the beginning I was just writing about anything, even my guests staying at my guesthouse but later I took it more seriously and I started writing about social issues, tourism, corruption, politics etc. But now I have been going through really strange situation ever since my blog has gotten good ranking on google. I never paid any money or put any extra efforts to get good ranking on google, it all happened automatically and I was always so happy and proud of my blog.

But ever since I have been getting good ranking on my blog, I have also started to get threats from different people who are upset with my writings. It was the first time last year when I had to remove one of the posts I wrote about a very famous TV show filming in Varanasi. I just wrote about my views on how they contacted me first, wanted to offer me the assignment but when I asked my salary they said that they did not have a fancy budget to pay my salary. Later I introduced one of my friends to the team and he agreed on working with them. When the crew arrived in Varanasi, I was surprised to see how big budget they had. And finally the producer asked my friend to get him some empty receipts so that he can fill some crazy amount and get money for it.

It was a very strange experience for me because I had already worked with so many TV channels from all over the world and none of them ever asked for such thing. I finally wrote about it and it became a serious problem for me because the producer sitting in Mumbai office found my post way before the show was ever on TV. The crew started calling me several times a day and threatened me by saying that they know so many people in Varanasi, they will go to the court against me etc… Finally under pressure of the crew and my friend who worked with them, I had to remove that post and it was a very upsetting moment for me. It took me more than a few weeks to recover from that incident.

Anyways, something similar again happened with me last week. I wrote a post about a guesthouse in Varanasi based in my person experience about how stupid the guesthouse staff and owner were in dealing with their guests. Actually one of my groups was staying at this guesthouse in the year 2011 and I got a call from the guesthouse owner the same day the group arrived saying that I should tell my group that I can’t provide any services to my group. I was surprised to hear it and I asked him if he was sure what he was talking about and he said that if I provide any boat, taxi or tours to my guests then they would kick the group out of their hotel. The owner also suggested me some stupid excuses like I can tell my guests that I don’t know anything about Varanasi.

Anyways, I informed my group about it and they also talked with the hotel owner, they had a little fight but later everything was fixed. But the guesthouse owner had threatened me by saying that I am new in the industry, I don’t know the rules, I should not try to be so smart and he will see me. I decided to write about it on my blog and same thing happened what had happened with that TV group. They started calling me, sending me emails and such things. Finally I got a call last week from a dude in my neighborhood who asked me to remove that post. I thought a lot about whether I should remove that post or not and decided to ask the group what they thought. I was surprised to see that the same group was going to stay at that same guesthouse in their next trip to India.

They said that it is convenient for them to stay at the same place because it is the closest guesthouse to the building where they have all of their business in Varanasi. I was kind of upset after hearing this but thought what can I do if even the group is not supporting me. So finally I removed that post also. All these removal of my posts and similar incidences all across India have raised a serious question about whether I should still write about corruption or not. Recently a writer was arrested and sent to jail because he made a comment on Facebook about some politician. Where is the freedom of expression and freedom of speech? At a moment I had thought to take help of Police but later realized that Police is definitely more corrupt than any the camera crew or the guesthouse owner.

I don’t know if I will ever write about corruption issues on my city level because I feel threatened by these local mafias. I have a family and I need to think about them as well. And in any case I never feel like having enough time to become part of bullshit politics. Peace.

Shiva Ganges View Guesthouse, Varanasi

Shiva Ganges View guesthouse is located near Manmndir ghat in Varanasi and is also well known as red bungalow as the whole building is painted red. The location is very nice as it is situated right along the river side and is walking distance from Harishchandra Ghat, the cremation ground. I had a French guest staying there and told me something about the guesthouse which made me write this post. In fact he was staying at Hotel Haifa before meeting me but changed the hotel only because of my report about corruption at Hotel Haifa and I really appreciated it.

Anyways, it was my first time when I got to enter the hotel and my first impression was very good. The hotel is run by an old man named Mr. Tondon whom I saw greeting his guests and doing all the formal things. After a while he asked me about what I do and when I told him that I am a tourist guide, he asked me to meet with him later personally. He said that he has a lot of work for tourist guides and would like to work for him. I knew that I would not be able to work for him as they do not even pay the real wage of tourist guides decided by government of India but I just agreed on meeting with him later.

I knew that if a tourist guide ever gets an assignment through any guest house or budget class hotels then they have to give a cut from their wage to the hotel and I just don’t do this. And in any case, since I charge more than the government rate he would have not been able to afford me. I went to the hotel several times while my guest was staying there and every time I had a positive impression until the day before my guest left. He asked for the final bill and bill indicated the amount different than what they had agreed before the guest checked-in the hotel.

When the guest moved there the first day, Mr. Tondon, the owner, asked for Rs. 3500 per night but on the last day he gave the bill of Rs. 4000 per night. When the guest asked about the difference of Rs. 500, he said that he was not sure about the room he was going to rent. It was crazy, how come a hotel could the tariffs? And in any case if they agreed on Rs. 3500 then it means Rs. 3500. It could not be Rs. 4000 without informing the guest. The guest was very upset and tried to convince Mr. Tondon that it was his fault and he needed to charge Rs. 3500 but Mr. Tondon was very profession in saying that it was not a fault of anyone but it was just a mistake that happened unintentionally.

The guest decided to give up as he just wanted to relax and did not care about Rs. 500 extra but it was really disturbing for me. This behavior of Mr. Tondon made me curious to see the room. I went to see the room of my guest and it just did not look worth Rs. 3500 or 4000 per night. The architecture was old and unique but walls were dirty. It had a strange golden color on ceilings. The washroom was also dirty and I just did not get any feeling of staying there. I would never ever give Rs. 4000 per night for such a room. I often have to book the hotels for my guests and if their budget is over 3000 per night then I prefer Hotel Ganges View, Palace on Ganges or Rashmi Guesthouse.

Palace on Ganges or Ganges View rooms are expensive but they are worth it but Shiva Ganges View rooms were not worth Rs. 4000 per night for sure. Another complaint about Shiva Ganges View was noted by a Hindi teacher named Mr. Binit Mishra who had a student staying there. On the very first day Mr. Tondon asked him for 50% as commission but Mr. Mishra immediately denied to give him anything. Mr. Tondon said that if he doesn’t get any commission then he won’t allow Mr. Mishra to enter in his hotel. Finally Mr. Mishra informed about it to his guest and the guest checked out the hotel.

It is really strange behavior from hotel owners in Varanasi and I often have to encounter through such situation but I never understand how a business owner can do it. What do they think of the business? Do they know anything about how the world is changing and it is becoming easier to find information online? Anyways, it was such a stupid behavior of Mr. Tondon and I hope someone gets to read this post before staying there. I have already made a few reports about other crazy services in Varanasi. But it doesn’t mean that I am trying to target certain people. I believe that it is better to take action than being quiet or keep complaining. And I will be keep writing about anything weird like Shiva Ganges View guesthouse. Peace. Thanks.

tourist guides work for free?

The Value of a Guide: A Glimpse into India’s Tourism Reality

Something strange happened to me today that made me realize the current state of tourist guides in India. A few days ago, my brother, who works as an Italian tour escort, called to tell me that one of his friends from Varanasi wanted to start a travel agency and needed my advice. The friend had seen my website and was impressed, so I eventually got a call from him. He wanted my suggestions on unique tours that would attract foreign tourists to Varanasi.

I told him about the distinctive things I show my guests, such as roadside dental clinics, “bull shops,” “Facebook Baba,” and my special walking tours. I even briefly mentioned the concept of LGBT tourism. Everything was going well, and we had a great conversation until he suddenly told me he had a group of foreign tourists coming to Varanasi and needed a guide to show them around. I was about to tell him about the official Incredible India office in Varanasi, but what he said next truly shocked me.

He told me he had heard that tourist guides in Varanasi charge a fee for their work. I was stunned. “Where is a place that they don’t charge a fee?” I asked. He confidently replied that guides in cities like Agra and Delhi work for free. I asked him why anyone would work for free, and he didn’t know, but he was so sure because he had already used the services of such guides.

I knew exactly why some guides work for free. It’s because they are more interested in taking guests to shops than to tourist sites. I told him this, and he asked if there was no such thing in Varanasi. I said I was not aware of any guides who operate that way. I explained that there is a set rate decided by the Indian government, and in fact, Varanasi is the most expensive place to hire a guide because the tourism day begins before sunrise and ends after sunset, meaning guides are often paid for what amounts to three half-days.

Despite knowing that free guides take guests to shops instead of historical sites, he still insisted on finding one. I called my brother and asked if this practice was common in Delhi and Agra. He confirmed that yes, there are such guides who work for free. Once you’re with them, they start telling all kinds of wild stories and eventually take you to a shop where you end up buying something, and they get a commission. I couldn’t believe someone would think tourist guides are a free service.

His guests will be staying at the Radisson Hotel in Varanasi, a place only wealthy tourists can afford. I wondered why, after paying so much money and traveling so far, they would choose to meet a guide who works for free and takes them shopping instead of sightseeing. My brother and many other guides tell me the same story: they are still treated as “entertainers” who tell funny stories, not as respected professionals.


The Lack of Respect for Guides

There is no professional standard for tourist guides in India, and I see this firsthand. I am proud to be a tourist guide because it is a wonderful profession. I get to meet people from all over the world; I teach them about my culture, and they teach me about theirs. I make a good living by Indian standards. We are known for being punctual in a country where delays are common. We represent our country, which is a huge and important responsibility. The Ministry of Tourism even calls us “cultural ambassadors of India.”

I believe the government of India needs to take steps to ensure tourist guides are respected. During my training, I was told the Ministry of Tourism planned to start an annual award for the best guides from different regions to encourage professionalism and interest in the profession. The government’s plans sounded great, but when I look at what has actually been done for tourism, everything seems the same.

I recently visited the Incredible India website, the most famous tourism brand in the country, and was shocked to see how outdated it was. The importance of this brand is clear; if you google “India,” “India tourism,” or “tourism in India,” the first result is the Incredible India website. However, the information there seems from the time of World War II. They are still saluting the medal winners from the Commonwealth Games that happened years ago.

The site requests that tourists use only authorized guides but provides no list of them. There are awards mentioned, but no category for “Best Tourist Guide.” I don’t know when the government will take tourism seriously. Tourism already contributes 5.90% to our GDP, and this percentage could increase dramatically with just a few small changes. I don’t know when the government will start thinking about these issues, but they really need to.

Impact of my CJ report

Sack Replaced with a Metal Box

Today, I feel genuinely happy and proud that my citizen report was taken seriously by the government and that action was finally taken against the corruption at Sarnath. When I visited the site to make a follow-up report, I was honestly shocked to see the scale of changes. Some of my colleagues had already mentioned improvements at Sarnath, but I was not expecting such a significant transformation. The first change I noticed was at the ticket counter itself. The staff was different—especially the main person involved in the earlier scam, who has since been transferred and later suspended (though I am not entirely sure about the suspension yet).

Sack is replaced with a metal box

New Tickets with Barcode and Unique Number

When I bought my ticket, I noticed the second major change: the ticket design. The new tickets now had a barcode and a unique serial number, making them traceable. The third change was at the gate, where the ticket checker was also a new face. He carefully tore the ticket into two parts, kept one half, and returned the other to me—exactly as the law requires. The fourth change came as a surprise. My camera was checked to determine whether it was for still photography or videography. Since filming requires an additional fee of Rs. 25, they were making sure nobody was shooting videos without paying.

new tickets with bar code and unique number

Metal Box Instead of Sack

The fifth and perhaps the most important change was that the old sack used to store tickets was gone. It had been replaced with a locked metal box. Once tickets went inside, there was no way to take them out and resell them. As I walked inside, I noticed more changes. There were more security guards on duty, and this time they were actively working. They patrolled continuously, stopped people from walking on the ruins, and even helped visitors. Everyone seemed alert and professional. The monument itself looked cleaner than I had ever seen it before. After spending about an hour walking around, I sat near the entrance gate to quietly observe the system. Every single ticket was checked, torn properly, and placed into the locked box. Another new rule was being enforced as well: people were not allowed to bring food inside. This has clearly helped reduce littering, keeping the site cleaner.

tickets were teard off

A Surprising Photograph

I wanted to document the new employee, but I wasn’t sure how to ask for his photo directly. So, I made a small plan with my friend. As I approached the exit, my friend pretended to ask me to get photographed in front of the entrance gate. While I was posing, something unexpected happened—the ticket checker himself called me over and asked to be photographed with me! He smiled, shook my hand, and posed happily for the photo. He had no idea that I was the person behind these changes. He didn’t know that his transfer to Varanasi was because of my report. He didn’t know that his chance of earning illegal money by reselling tickets was gone because of my work. I couldn’t help but laugh quietly to myself.

shaked hand happy cause he did not know that I was the who exposed the curroption

Feeling Proud

For a moment, I was nervous about being recognized, but none of the staff knew me since they were all new hires. In the end, I felt incredibly proud and relieved. Seeing real change on the ground made me believe in the power of speaking up.

Stupa at Sarnath

CNN-IBN broadcasted my follow-up report, and once again, I was reminded that raising your voice against corruption can make a difference.

Scam in ticketing at Sarnath exposed

Exposing Corruption in Varanasi: My Experience with CNN IBN

A few weeks ago, CNN IBN contacted me regarding corruption stories from Varanasi. They explained that they run a program called Citizen Journalist, where ordinary people step forward as reporters to expose crimes and irregularities. I was already familiar with the show, as it’s quite popular in India, and I decided to contribute. They had found me through my blog, where I had previously written about several corruption cases. Like many other Indian citizens, I had witnessed corruption at almost every level of society, but now I finally had a platform to bring these stories to light.

Babu, Erica, Chitra and I

The Stories I Shared

I provided CNN IBN with four stories:

  1. Corruption in MNREGA implementation

  2. Corruption in Varanasi’s drinking water supply

  3. Irregularities in sewage treatment plants

  4. Encroachment of sacred ponds and the scam in ticketing at Sarnath

To strengthen these stories, they asked me to find people directly affected by these corrupt practices. Through Lok Samiti, I identified villagers suffering under MNREGA corruption. I also contacted Shanti Lal Jain, a social worker who had worked extensively on Ganga issues, to speak about sewage treatment plant corruption. For the ponds, I reached out to a retired engineer who had used the Right to Information Act to reveal illegal encroachments and obtained a High Court directive ordering restoration of ponds captured after 1957. The last story, however, was something I had personally experienced countless times—the scam at the ticketing counter in Sarnath.

explaning the corruption

The Scam at Sarnath

At Sarnath’s excavation site, ticket collectors were pocketing entire tickets instead of tearing them in half as required by law. The untouched tickets were then resold, generating illegal revenue. This practice was carried out openly, with the involvement of government employees and even some tourist guides who received a share of the profits. I was repeatedly offered participation in this scam but had always refused. As a guide, I have many opportunities to earn through commissions, but I have always believed in honest work.

This time, however, I saw a chance to do something meaningful. Still, I was worried about the risks—ASI (Archaeological Survey of India) could easily retaliate by canceling my tourist guide license. To be safe, I consulted my brother, who also works in the tourism industry. His advice was blunt but motivating: “Go and expose them.”

Collecting Evidence

CNN IBN asked me to gather proof before the crew arrived. My friend Babu and I went to Sarnath, where we filmed ticket collectors directly dropping tickets into a sack instead of tearing them. Later, when the CNN IBN crew reached Varanasi, they worked on the other stories first. Each story created an impact: the woman affected by MNREGA corruption received her salary, and the administration began looking into pond restoration.

new tickets with bar code and unique number

For the Sarnath story, I needed volunteers to act as tourists. I advertised on Couchsurfing and eventually chose a British couple staying at my guesthouse. On the filming day, we staged a visit. From a distance, the crew captured footage of the collectors keeping tickets whole. When we had enough evidence, we confronted them on camera. As soon as the ticket collector saw the camera, he hurriedly tore the ticket and returned half to the volunteer, trying to cover his tracks. We immediately checked the sack and found over 500 fresh tickets—clear evidence of resale.

volunteer Erica

The Confrontation

Soon after, an ASI employee from the ticket counter arrived. When questioned, he gave absurd explanations, claiming Sri Lankan tourists and young couples often discarded tickets, which staff collected and tore later. These excuses were laughable, especially since I had witnessed them reselling tickets myself. Later, a female ASI employee openly admitted on camera that the scam had been happening for years and that every government employee at the excavation site was involved. This confirmation gave me immense relief and confidence. We also attempted to speak to the officer in charge of Sarnath, but he literally ran away upon seeing us.

the officer in charge’s office

Public Support and Aftermath

Filming at the entrance drew large crowds. At one point, I was surrounded by nearly 100 people chanting slogans against corruption. Their support gave me strength in what was otherwise a very tense moment. The next morning, every local newspaper reported the story, though none mentioned me or CNN IBN directly. The officer in charge claimed ignorance and promised action, which I knew was just a cover-up. Nevertheless, I urged CNN IBN to escalate the matter to ASI’s regional office in Patna and the head office in Delhi.

filming

I now feel more secure, especially since an ASI officer herself admitted to the scam on record. For me, the greatest reward was not media recognition, but the overwhelming public support and the satisfaction of exposing a system that had been cheating tourists and staining the reputation of Sarnath for years.

show recording

Bhopal

The City

I visited Bhopal for the first time with a friend, and I really loved the place, especially the way Madhya Pradesh Tourism Department has organized tourism in the state. There was a small issue with the hotel booking, but it was fine in the end. We stayed at Ranjeet Hotel near the railway station. The hotel was nice for the amount I paid, but when I had tried to book it over the phone from Varanasi, they told me there were no rooms available. We reached Bhopal around 10:30 PM without any booking, but since we already knew about Ranjeet Hotel, we decided to take a chance and show up there. Surprisingly, even though they had told me earlier that no rooms were available, they still gave us one. Strange, but definitely good for us.

the city

Bada Lake

We had one important purpose in Bhopal, which was to visit Chingari Trust to learn about their work. We managed to do that the very next day after arriving. With plenty of time left, we decided to explore the city. On the suggestion of the people working at Chingari Trust, we went to see the two famous lakes of Bhopal: Bada Talab and Chhota Talab. Both were wonderful, clean, and offered several options for water sports. Chhota Talab is separated from Bada Talab by an over-bridge. We didn’t try any sports but enjoyed walking around and soaking in the calm atmosphere.

wetland for birds and crocodiles

Beautiful Kids at the Mosque

After visiting the lakes, we took an auto rickshaw back to the hotel. On the way, I asked the driver if there was any other interesting place nearby. He suggested the Darul Uloom Taj-ul-Masjid. I had already read about this mosque and wanted to see it, so we decided to visit before returning to the hotel. It turned out to be one of the best experiences in Bhopal. The mosque was grand and beautiful, and it is considered one of the largest mosques in Asia. Unlike many mosques in India, this one allows women, non-Muslims, and foreigners to enter, which I found very welcoming.

beautiful kids at the mosque

Meeting a Student

Inside the mosque, there is an Islamic school. I met a very nice student who showed me around. He shared his life story and even took me to his room. He told me that he had studied up to Class 12 in a regular school, but afterward, he chose to dedicate himself to Islamic studies. He showed me his books, but when I wanted to touch his Quran, he politely stopped me. He explained that since the Quran is the holiest book for Muslims, there is a specific process of purification required before touching it. I was really impressed by his respect for his faith.

We spoke for nearly two hours about many things, including politics and Hindu-Muslim relations. He told me that Islam strictly prohibits creating tensions between communities, so anyone who does it is not a true Muslim, no matter what they claim. I had heard this before, but it was refreshing to meet a young person who truly believed in it. For me, such people represent the real development of India. We exchanged contact information, and I hope to meet him again whenever I return to Bhopal.

Van Vihar National Park

The next day, we visited a small national park called Van Vihar, located near Bada Talab. It was a peaceful and well-maintained place. They had bicycles for rent, battery-operated vehicles, and of course, walking paths. The park was quiet and clean, with a wide variety of animals such as lions, tigers, leopards, deer, bears, hyenas, crocodiles, and monkeys. The animals seemed to be kept in good condition. The park stretches for about seven kilometers from one end to the other. Plastic bags were banned, and it was a no-horn zone, so it felt very different from the usual chaos of Indian cities. At the far end, there was a cafeteria serving snacks. We rented bicycles, explored the park, and really enjoyed the calm environment.

awesome place

One interesting thing I noticed was the urinal system. They had arranged a separate design for Muslims, since they squat while urinating. It was set up lower to the ground to allow this posture. Despite traveling across India, visiting Muslim friends’ homes, and experiencing many things, I had never seen anything like this before. Bhopal has a large Muslim population, which probably explains the arrangement.

look at the right side ones

More Sites Nearby

Later, we visited Bhimbetka, famous for its ancient cave paintings, and on the way back, we stopped at the Bhojpur Shiva Temple. The next day, we explored Sanchi, known for its Buddhist stupas. All of these places were fascinating, and I thoroughly enjoyed Madhya Pradesh. The weather was pleasant, the city was green and quiet, the sites were clean, and I never encountered touts.

Honestly, my home state has far better tourism potential than Madhya Pradesh, but because of politics and government negligence, tourism here is rarely given priority. If things continue this way, Madhya Pradesh will soon surpass Uttar Pradesh as a leading tourism destination. Visiting Bhopal and its surroundings was a truly memorable experience.

Guide training program – week 7

The seventh week of the guide training program wrapped up with an orientation tour through Agra, Jaipur, and Delhi. Our first stop was Agra, where we visited four major monuments: the Taj Mahal, the Red Fort, Sikandara (the Tomb of Akbar), and Itmad-ud-Daula. With one guide for fifty participants, navigating Agra was quite the experience. The water there was notably sour, so we were advised to stick to bottled water. The city was bustling with touts constantly trying to sell something near the monuments, and we were taken to several tourist shops that were impressively large.

These shops, which also provided our meals, saw the tour as an opportunity to showcase their products. Although the items were significantly overpriced—often ten times the market rate—the quality was excellent. It was a lucrative deal for them to host two hundred tour guides at once. In Jaipur, we visited Jaigarh Fort, Amber Fort, City Palace, and Jantar Mantar. The water quality in Jaipur was as poor as in Agra. While I enjoyed most of the monuments, the City Palace stood out as particularly commercial. Only a small part of the palace was open to visitors; access to other areas required extra fees, which varied based on the visitor’s profile.

The City Palace also had its own licensing system, which meant that even government-approved tour guides had to either hire a City Palace guide or pay additional fees. The City Palace allowed various events, including birthday celebrations, for a price, and even offered the option to have the king himself welcome guests. Delhi, as expected, was chaotic. I learned that TGFI (Tour Guide Federation of India) had instructed local guides not to train us during our Delhi visit. Consequently, our institute struggled to find a guide, eventually having to hire a monument guide. TGFI’s opposition to our training program was evident, as they had previously sued the government over it. Their protest was a clear sign of their dissatisfaction.

The shops in Delhi, unlike those in Jaipur and Agra, were less accommodating. Although they organized our meals, the overall experience did not match the quality and hospitality we encountered in the other cities. Despite the challenges, the tour was valuable. I did not gain extensive knowledge due to the high guide-to-participant ratio, but the experience was still worthwhile. Looking ahead, I plan to start my career in Varanasi after obtaining my license. I intend to study the city thoroughly before considering work in other locations. Eventually, I may explore other cities, hire guides, and expand my knowledge to enhance my proficiency as a tour guide.