Varanasi bomb blast

Affected Area

Once again, something happened that I never want to hear about. Varanasi has faced yet another bomb blast – this time at Dashashwamedh Ghat during the Ganga Aarti. My work brings me to this place at least 15 times a month, and though I was not there today, I am shaken and heartbroken for those who were affected. What makes it even worse is the way the tragedy is being hidden. The central government, the UP state government, and much of the media are not telling the truth about the scale of the devastation. I personally saw at least 10 ambulances filled with injured people passing through my neighborhood, yet the official count claims only 20 injured and 1 girl dead.

Dashashwamedh Ghat

Empty Ghats

The ambulances I saw were all headed to BHU hospital, but I know for a fact that at least three other hospitals are also treating victims. This means the real number of injured must be well over 100. I have no words to fully express my grief, but I can say with certainty: enough is enough. The group Indian Mujahideen, which once operated under the name SIMI (Students Islamic Movement of India), has claimed responsibility. But in my view, responsibility also lies heavily on our own government, police, and intelligence agencies. Their repeated failures are what make such tragedies possible.

What hurt me further was listening to the official responses. The Prime Minister and Sonia Gandhi simply appealed for calm, while the UP police made the obvious statement that “this was a terrorist attack”. The whole country already knows this – it doesn’t need repeating. What we need is action, not empty words.

Bomb blast place

Sad Faces

How many times will we be told to “stay calm”? How many times will our leaders fail to protect us, yet ask us to quietly endure? This cannot continue.

I know that writing a post on my blog will not stop terrorism or corruption, but I want to appeal to everyone reading this:

  • Think very carefully before casting your vote.

  • Whenever a policeman demands a bribe, refuse and expose it.

  • If you see corruption or illegal activities, document them and share them publicly.

  • Hold our leaders, police, and intelligence accountable.

We must unite – against terrorists, yes, but also against the corruption and negligence that allow terrorism to flourish in India. Today I feel both sad and angry. My city is wounded again. The ghats are empty, the faces are full of sorrow, and while leaders prepare for their VVIP visits, ordinary people suffer.

Sad faces

Sad faces

Enough is enough.

Road cleaning for VVIPs

Road cleaning for VVIPs

The whole city was closed in the protest of the bomb blast

The whole city was closed in the protest of the bomb blast

Kashmir Issue

My Journey to Jammu & Kashmir

I returned from a trip to Jammu & Kashmir a few days ago. Although I couldn’t complete my pilgrimage—since the police stopped us from entering the Kashmir Valley due to bad weather and ongoing violence—I have no regrets. I still had the chance to talk with locals and members of the Indian Army about one of the biggest social issues in India: the Kashmir conflict and the tensions between Hindus and Muslims.

My main purpose was to visit the Amarnath Temple, one of the holiest places on earth for Hindus. I had last been to Kashmir about ten years ago, at a time when the valley was beginning to recover and tourism was slowly returning. Back then, I saw no violence. Locals were happy and hopeful, welcoming visitors with warmth, as terrorism seemed to be on the decline. Since the economy of Kashmir depends heavily on tourism, peace was vital for them. But even a small spark of tension between India and Pakistan can bring the entire valley to a standstill.

This time, we reached Jammu by train and hired a taxi to Pahalgam, the base camp for the Amarnath Yatra. We left our hotel at around 10 a.m., full of excitement. But our journey was cut short—the police stopped us, citing bad weather, and refused to let us proceed. Our driver whispered that sometimes the police do this for no reason and suggested we speak to them. We tried, but they told us to wait. Nearby, I noticed an army check-post where some pilgrims were going inside. I decided to approach them too.

At the army office, our driver suggested we pretend we wanted to go to Katra instead of Amarnath. When I explained this to the officer, he told me he could only help if I had relatives in the army. Technically, I do—but I didn’t want to cause delay, so I said no. Fortunately, when he found out that I was from near Varanasi, he warmed up. He made it clear that the Indian Army never accepts bribes, but if I wanted to “understand how the J&K police function,” I could try offering them some money. He mentioned Rs. 500. He himself refused to intervene, since the army despises the J&K police for their corruption.

I was shocked, but at least it gave me a direction. We offered a police officer Rs. 300 per taxi, and he agreed. Just as we were about to proceed, another officer noticed us, turned aggressive, and the first officer also pretended to be angry. We were pushed back into line. While waiting, I struck up a conversation with another army man. What he told me disturbed me even more. He claimed that J&K no longer truly felt like a part of India, that even he didn’t know where it stood. He said the army was only there to protect people and added, bitterly, that if the army left even for a single day, the J&K police would “sell the entire region” to outsiders. According to him, the police were deeply corrupt and one of the main reasons terrorism still survived.

We spent ten hours waiting and were finally told to return and try again at 4 a.m. the next morning. When we did, the same thing happened—we were stopped again. As I stood in line, I met a young boy from Anantnag. He told me his family was too poor for him to study, so he sold hot water to pilgrims. Curious, I asked him if he had ever seen a terrorist. At first, he denied it, visibly uncomfortable. But after some time, he opened up. What he revealed broke my heart. Terrorists often came to his village and forced locals to host them. Families lived in fear—if they reported them to the army, they believed they would be killed sooner or later.

He said terrorists had even stayed in his house, and he felt powerless when they harassed his sister. Tears rolled down his face as he spoke. I was left speechless. He also told me about a friend’s family who had once hosted three militants. The army arrived for a routine ID check. When one soldier inside asked for ID, the terrorists opened fire and killed him. The army retaliated by blowing up the house, killing everyone inside. Locals protested against the army, but who was truly at fault? The terrorists, the army, or the helpless family? I still don’t know.

When I asked my driver what the people of Kashmir really wanted, his answer surprised me: “Neither India, nor Pakistan. They want independence.” I struggled to understand this. Independence would only mean poverty and isolation for years. In my view, staying with India is the most practical option—India has more resources, more opportunities, and a stronger future than Pakistan. But the driver disagreed. He said the army and politicians were the real problem, accusing soldiers of killing innocents and blaming America for all global tensions. I couldn’t accept that fully, but I realized how deep the resentment runs among the people.

Though I never reached Amarnath, my friends who went earlier shared chilling stories—kids on the streets shouting, “This is our land, not yours, you Indians,” and stone-pelting mobs attacking pilgrim vehicles. More than 200 cars were damaged. The hatred seemed to begin from such a young age. After four days in J&K, I returned with heavy questions in my heart. Why do people there see me, an Indian, as an outsider in my own country? Are we fighting for land, or for the rights of people who don’t even feel Indian? I don’t know if I have the right answers, but I do know this: Kashmir is India, and I hope one day the people of the valley can live in peace, free of terrorism, and once again welcome pilgrims and tourists with the spirit of Atithi Devo Bhava.

Peace.

Finally received Indian passport

I finally received my passport, and believe me, it took more than eleven months. I applied for it last February and only received it this January. The entire process was marred by bureaucratic red tape and corruption. From purchasing the application to finally holding the passport in my hands, it was a constant ordeal of bribery and inefficiency. The police were supposed to verify my documents by visiting my home and meeting me in person, but instead, I had to go to the police station, where they demanded Rs. 600 and never followed up with a home visit.

Similarly, the Local Intelligence Unit (LIU), known for its propensity to ask for bribes and its lack of genuine efficiency, was also supposed to verify my documents. I ended up meeting the officer in a hospital room where his wife was admitted. It was quite absurd: I received a call from an LIU officer who said he had my passport documents and wanted to meet me. When I inquired about the time he would visit my home, he told me his wife was ill and in the hospital, so he provided me with the hospital address and asked me to meet him there.

At the hospital, this officer took me to the room where his wife was lying in bed. She had the typical appearance of someone whose spouse is involved in corrupt practices. The officer briefly reviewed my documents and then demanded Rs. 600 as a bribe. My friends had advised me to offer only Rs. 300, so I tried to negotiate, but he insisted that the Rs. 600 would be distributed among all the officers at the LIU office. Reluctantly, I paid him the full amount.

Adding to the absurdity, the officer then asked me to teach him English. I couldn’t help but laugh at the request and didn’t know how to respond. I suggested a few language schools and quickly left the hospital. During our conversation, he revealed something troubling: when I asked why he didn’t come to my home for verification, he mentioned that they were primarily concerned with people who have beards, implying a focus on Muslims.I understand that one particular group is involved in the majority of terrorist activities around the world and may be viewed with suspicion. However, as an officer working for the LIU, he should have visited my place and conducted a thorough check regardless.

The inefficiency and bias of institutions like the LIU seem to contribute to the problem rather than address it effectively. It’s disheartening to see how these institutions operate, especially given the significant impact of terrorism on our society.

Tourism in Amritsar

After submitting my tour guide license documents at the India Tourism office in New Delhi, I headed to Amritsar. I had heard a lot about the flag ceremony at the Wagah India-Pakistan border, which was the main reason for my visit. I was scheduled to arrive in Amritsar on the evening of the 9th, but due to a 17-hour train delay, I reached on the afternoon of the 10th. I quickly found a hotel near the railway station, dropped off my things, and went straight to Wagah, as the parade was set to start at 4:30 PM. Although I had enough time to get there before the parade, I wanted to arrive early to get a sense of the atmosphere.

The bus dropped me about two kilometers from the border, and I had to take a rickshaw from there. I was keen on experiencing Amritsar and interacting with locals, so I chose to take the bus to engage with more people. The bus was packed, but I managed to get a seat. I arrived at the Wagah border at 3 PM, but at that time, the border was only open to traders, not the general public. Wagah border, like many tourist spots in India, had its share of touts and vendors. There weren’t many shops, but those that were there had touts. Several individuals approached me, trying to direct me to their “brother’s” restaurant or shop.

Being from Varanasi, where the tourism industry is heavily influenced by touts, I was well aware of these tactics. Since I wasn’t hungry, my rickshaw driver didn’t receive any commission. I noticed that Wagah border was one of the few places in India where time was strictly observed. The border closed for traders at 3:30 PM sharp. After the closure, tourists were allowed to queue up. There were about 3,000 people lined up to watch the parade. Some rickshaw drivers offered to get us closer to the front, which I found surprising but true. There were two gates, about 500 meters apart, with a security check in between. People chanted slogans like “Vande Mataram” and “Bharat Mata Ki Jai” with great enthusiasm.

BSF office at Wagah

It turned out that getting to the security check first was crucial for a good view of the parade. The first gate opened at 4 PM, and everyone rushed to the second gate for the security check. I was impressed by the orderly management but was taken aback when I saw two policemen on horses accompanied by a dog. I wondered about the effectiveness of such security measures, given the potential risks. Seeing wild animals around, even in high-security areas, is not uncommon in India, but it was unexpected at such a critical location. The parade began at 4:30 PM and was an unforgettable experience.

On the Indian side, there were around 3,000 to 4,000 spectators, while the Pakistani side had only about 300 to 400 attendees. This discrepancy was likely due to the vast difference in population sizes between the two countries. During the parade, people were cheering loudly for their respective sides. I spoke with locals about the purpose of the parade, and they mentioned that it aimed to bring Indians and Pakistanis closer together. However, the aggressive posturing of the soldiers seemed to contradict this intention. Despite this, I thoroughly enjoyed the parade, which lasted for 45 minutes, culminating in the lowering of the flags on both sides.

BSF flag

After the parade, I was delighted to see women serving at the border. In a predominantly male society like India, where many women are confined to traditional roles, it was inspiring to see women actively involved in border security. They appeared fit, confident, and diligent in their duties, which was a refreshing sight. Later, I visited the Golden Temple, which was magnificent and enormous. I had heard about the Sikh tradition of volunteers managing visitors’ shoes and was impressed by the organization. The volunteers at the shoe stands were efficient and dedicated. Visitors were also provided with cloth pieces to cover their heads before entering the temple. The cold weather, with temperatures dropping to around 0.8°C, made walking on the marble floors quite chilly.

The Golden temple

The Golden Temple was bustling, but the management ensured that the crowds were well-handled. I spent a few hours there, observing the activities and enjoying the Langar meal. The temple’s dedication to service and the sense of community were remarkable. After visiting the Golden Temple, I went to Jallianwala Bagh, a memorial dedicated to the massacre of 2,000 Indians during British rule. The site includes an art gallery, the well where people fell while trying to escape, and walls still bearing bullet marks. It was a somber and emotional experience, with many visitors reflecting on the brutality of the massacre.

The Golden temple

My final stop was the Maharaja Ranjit Singh Museum. Despite being a newly built facility, it lacked a power backup system, which was frustrating. After waiting for an hour due to a power outage, I explored the museum and learned about Maharaja Ranjit Singh’s life. This trip to Amritsar was highly successful and informative, allowing me to learn about Sikh religion and witness the Wagah border ceremony. Despite the cold weather, which I underestimated, the experience was enriching. Unfortunately, my train was canceled due to fog, and I had to buy a new ticket to Delhi and then to Varanasi, with a small bribe involved. Two days felt insufficient for exploring Amritsar, and I hope to return in the future.

Bullet marks

Terrorist attack on Mumbai

Mumbai was attacked by terrorists on November 26th. Nearly 175 people were killed, and over 350 were injured. Terrorism has been affecting India for decades, yet the government continues to issue the same unconvincing statements without taking substantial action to address it. In such a critical situation, it would have been ideal for all political parties to unite, but unfortunately, the two major parties—Congress and BJP—remained at odds. There is widespread criticism of both the government and the police. Media outlets, the Indian intelligence agency, and the FBI have indicated that the terrorists were trained in Pakistan.

Fire at the Taj Hotel, Mumbai

The police have gathered significant evidence suggesting Pakistan’s involvement in the attack, but the Pakistani government refuses to acknowledge it. India provided Pakistan with a list of twenty terrorists, requesting their extradition, but Pakistan demanded proof of their involvement before considering any action. The terrorists India has requested are internationally recognized as terrorists, yet Pakistan insists on further evidence. Dawood Ibrahim, who facilitated the terrorists’ sea route to Mumbai, is already listed as a most-wanted terrorist by the US government, but Pakistan still seeks more proof. Despite widespread calls for action from the Indian public, it seems unlikely that meaningful measures will be taken.

Ajmal Kasab, one of the terrorists

Following the Mumbai attacks, India received strong support from the international community. Both the US and Israeli governments have pledged their assistance in the fight against terrorism. However, while our government eagerly seeks international help for nuclear projects that could lead to environmental and safety risks, it appears less interested in leveraging international support to combat terrorism. I was particularly struck by an Israeli politician’s interview where he suggested that India should first address its own issues before expecting international assistance. I agree with this perspective.

An injured person at a hospital

It is crucial for us to take proactive measures ourselves rather than waiting for others to intervene. After each terrorist attack, politicians issue statements that ultimately lead nowhere. Both the Indian government and the international community often fall short in providing effective responses. The media also expressed frustration over repeatedly covering terrorist attacks. They criticized the constant exposure to violence and the need to report on it. Despite their efforts to capture and report on the attacks, media outlets often found themselves ahead of the police in terms of information.

CST Railway station after attack

The media’s coverage, including photos and videos of the terrorists, contrasted sharply with the police’s repeated claims of being unable to locate them. During one interview, a terrorist called into a news channel with demands, including the release of imprisoned terrorists and the declaration of Hyderabad as a Muslim state. Despite his claims of being from Hyderabad, his distinct Kashmiri accent revealed his actual origin. Eventually, it was confirmed that the terrorists were from Karachi, Pakistan. One of the terrorists, when asked about their food needs, dismissed the question, stating that they would be welcomed into heaven with plentiful food.

Fire coming out of Oberio Hotel window

When informed that the NSG commandos were closing in, he replied that the world was watching and that dying would lead him to heaven and the blessings of Allah. The terrorists justified their attack by alleging that Hindus mistreat Muslims, citing the demolition of the Babri Mosque as an example. However, this was an isolated incident, and many temples have been destroyed in Pakistan as well. Their claims do not reflect the broader reality in India, where such incidents are rare. When discussing Kashmir, the terrorists claimed that its people want to join Pakistan.

 

However, during my time in Kashmir, every person I spoke to expressed a desire to remain under Indian control. Kashmir’s ongoing poverty is largely due to terrorism, and if the terrorists genuinely cared about the Kashmiri people, they would cease their violence, as India offers better opportunities than Pakistan. Recent sentiments among my friends suggest that if Kashmir is the source of these problems, some would even support giving it to Pakistan to resolve the issue. I understand this perspective, given the persistent violence affecting all parts of India. If the Indian government were to consider this option, I would support it, recognizing that the government has struggled to solve the Kashmir issue effectively.

If those advocating for Kashmiri Muslims genuinely cared about their welfare, they would also need to address the conditions of Muslims in other Indian states. Their demands for Kashmir might eventually extend to the whole country. Instead, if they want Kashmir, they should also accept all Muslims from India and resettle them elsewhere. This, however, is unrealistic because their real aim is not to improve the lives of Muslims but to disrupt India’s progress and economy. The Mumbai attacks targeted landmarks like the Taj and Oberoi hotels to damage India’s tourism and economic sectors. While not all Muslims are involved in terrorism, these attacks taint their image and intentions.

The public response to the attacks was powerful. People across India protested, with a massive candlelight march in Mumbai. Many believe that the government, rather than the terrorists, should be held accountable for the security lapses that allowed the attacks to occur. The ease with which the terrorists smuggled weapons from Karachi suggests possible collusion with local authorities. Mumbai demands a change in the political system, and while some advocate for more educated leaders, I believe that honesty is more critical. Education alone cannot solve corruption; it must be coupled with integrity. Despite young Indians’ rejection of bribery, widespread corruption in government and law enforcement undermines this ideal.

Candle light procession

Guests at the Taj Hotel during the attacks praised the staff for their efforts in keeping them informed and safe. In contrast, government agencies failed to deliver. The private sector performed admirably under the circumstances. Instead of solely blaming Pakistan or terrorist organizations, we need to improve our internal systems. In my view, the primary failures were within the Indian government and its security forces.

Hotel Taj before attacks

Terrorism in India

Yesterday was the last day of Durga Puja, and I went out with my friends to visit the Durga pandals, as we have been doing for the past decade. We typically leave home around 9 PM and spend the whole night traveling to different pandals, returning by morning. The traffic is usually heavy due to the large number of people attending, and we normally park our bikes and walk from one pandal to another.

This year, however, I was taken aback by the turnout. Only about ten percent of the usual crowd attended, a stark contrast to the vibrant celebrations of previous years. The streets, which are normally congested, were relatively empty, making it easy to ride our bikes. My friends and I were prepared for the usual foot traffic, but there was no need to walk extensively. I believe the reduced attendance was due to the recent bomb blasts in various cities and the ongoing reports about terrorism in Varanasi.

It felt disheartening to see that fear seemed to have overshadowed the festive spirit. I recall the aftermath of the bomb blast at Sankat Mochan temple, where over a hundred people died. Despite the tragedy, the community quickly returned to normal, expressing their resolve to combat terrorism with support from the authorities. However, this year’s low turnout at Durga Puja suggests that the same resolve might be fading.

This situation reminds me of a recent incident when Jaipur police arrested a mullah in Varanasi, suspecting him of involvement in the Jaipur bomb blasts. The arrest sparked significant protests from the Muslim community, leading to his release due to political pressure and concerns over vote banks. Even though he remains a suspect, he is now free and continues his activities.

Similarly, Afzal Guru, who was convicted for the terrorist attack on the Indian Parliament, was sentenced to death by the Supreme Court. However, the Central Government, led by Congress, has stalled the execution by petitioning the President, who is a Congress candidate. Reports suggest that many terrorists, including those in jail, live under relatively favorable conditions due to political and police corruption.

Sometimes I wonder if individuals like Afzal Guru and the mullah who was released under political pressure are involved in orchestrating bomb blasts. Political parties often prioritize maintaining support from influential vote banks, such as the Muslim community, over addressing terrorism effectively. The current state of affairs makes it seem like meaningful change is unlikely to come anytime soon.

Major Terrorist Attacks in India

India has experienced a series of major bomb blasts over the years, often with devastating consequences. The news channel NDTV 24×7 categorizes these as major incidents, reflecting the scale of the problem. The following are notable examples:

Recently, a suspect in the Jaipur bomb blasts, a Muslim man who teaches at a madarsa in Varanasi, was arrested. This led to significant unrest, with thousands of Muslims protesting and blocking traffic, demanding his release. The situation escalated when the head of a prominent mosque in Benares intervened, promising to secure his release by a specific deadline. Despite police resistance, the suspect was eventually released on bail after extensive protests, including the involvement of local political leaders. This situation underscores the challenges faced by law enforcement and the delicate balance required in handling communal tensions and terrorism-related issues.

The difficulty in prosecuting suspects and managing public protests reflects the broader struggles in combating terrorism while maintaining social harmony.