Tag Archives: Chicago

Research with laborers and construction workers

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Adam has previously visited Varanasi to study Hindi. During this visit, he wanted to speak with construction workers, including those who work independently, those employed by agencies, those under contractors, and those working for the government. I noticed a construction site in my neighborhood and thought it would be a good opportunity to talk to some workers there, so I took Adam along and we spoke with two of them. Adam asked them several questions, but what intrigued me most was their response about training for laborers.

Adam inquired if they knew of any places in Benares where training is provided to laborers or skilled workers, and they mentioned a government training center in Chunar. However, neither of the workers had attended the center, nor were they interested in going. When asked why, they explained that, as they are poor, they prefer to work and earn money rather than stay somewhere without earning. They find it more practical to learn on the job while making some income. Both workers said that nearly all laborers start by carrying bricks or assisting skilled workers at construction sites, eventually becoming skilled laborers themselves.

None of them were satisfied with their earnings. They mentioned that laborers make only Rs. 120 ($2.50) per day, while skilled workers earn about Rs. 200 ($4) per day, which seems quite inadequate considering the rising cost of living in India. Additionally, when working under a contractor, they often receive even less because the contractor takes a cut. The workers also noted that most laborers in Benares are from Bihar or nearby villages. Adam asked about compensation for medical expenses in case of an injury. They said that, typically, contractors pressure the landowner to cover medical costs.

If the landowner agrees, they pay; otherwise, the contractor handles it. However, workers usually face difficulties getting any additional support from either the contractor or the landowner. Another interesting point was their explanation of why women are not often skilled laborers in India. They mentioned that skilled labor work can be risky, such as climbing scaffolding supported only by bamboo. I find it puzzling because Indian women often engage in risky activities like cooking over kerosene stoves, which can lead to accidents like LPG cylinder explosions. Women also face risks from forced marriages and dowry harassment, which seem more dangerous than climbing scaffolding.

Adam is also looking to speak with contractors. I know a few in my area and will introduce them to him. Additionally, Adam needed a recommendation letter from the Varanasi Development Authority (VDA) to facilitate his grant approval. We visited the VDA office, where an officer directed us to meet with the VDA Chairman. The following day, we met the Chairman and discussed Adam’s research. Although the VDA doesn’t engage heavily in construction due to limited funds, the Chairman agreed to provide the recommendation letter. Adam drafted the letter as requested, and the Chairman asked his typist to type it up. It took over an hour to type just one page, but we eventually received the important document.

The VDA also promised to offer any future assistance Adam might need, which was surprising as it’s uncommon for us to expect government help. Regardless, we secured what we needed, which is what truly matters.

Research on secular philosophers and cremationists

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Adam, a PhD candidate at the University of Chicago, returned to Benares and stayed at my place again. This year, he aimed to conduct preliminary research for his upcoming study in India. Although he wanted to study Hindi, he had decided to go to Mussoorie for that purpose. Adam was interested in two main subjects: laborers at construction sites and Doams (the individuals who work at cremation sites). Accompanying him this year was his fiancée, Megan, who is conducting research for her school, Smith College, in Boston, on secular Indian philosophers. She was looking to gather data on philosophers active between 1850 and 1940.

Megan had initially gone to the University of Mysore but had not found any useful resources due to a lack of assistance. Frustrated, she left Mysore and came to Benares with hopes of better luck at BHU. She wanted to visit the BHU library and consult with professors from the philosophy department. I enlisted the help of a friend from BHU, who guided us through the university. Our first stop was the International Students Center, where we met an officer who directed us to the head of the central library.

When we met with the head of the library, both Adam and Megan were impressed by the facilities at BHU, noting that the library was far superior to that of the University of Mysore. They praised the helpfulness of the staff at BHU. Megan was asked to write a formal request for permission to use the library, and after submitting it, we were granted access to the books. We toured the library with a few staff members who showed us around. Megan found several valuable books for her research, but unfortunately, the books were too old and fragile to be photocopied.

Instead, she had to request digital copies. The library staff asked us to return in five days to collect the digital formats. Afterward, we visited the philosophy department and met a professor who was more interested in showcasing his own work than in discussing Megan’s research. He spent an hour talking about his books before finally asking what Megan needed. She explained her research, and he suggested she return the next day to explore the philosophy department’s library, which he claimed contained relevant books.

Returning home, Megan felt positive about the day’s progress, especially after the promising experience at BHU, which contrasted sharply with her frustrating visit to the University of Mysore. I was pleased for Megan’s successful research day. Adam, meanwhile, wanted to interview a Doam, so I took him to Harishchandra Ghat and introduced him to a contact I had met while working on CBC’s documentary *Myths and Might*. We met at the ghat, and he took us to the electric crematorium where he worked. This was my first visit to an electric burner, and it turned out to be the perfect setting for Adam’s interview.

Over the next few hours, Adam and Megan asked the Doam various questions about his personal life, social status, and experiences of discrimination. To show his appreciation, Adam wanted to give a gift, so I asked the Doam about the nearest sweet shop. The Doam explained that they preferred alcohol over sweets, so we ended up buying him a bottle of whiskey instead.

Kite festival in Varanasi

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The kite festival on the 14th and 15th was one I really enjoyed. I used to fly kites for at least four or five months each year, but I stopped doing it about six or seven years ago. Now, I only fly kites during this festival, known as Khichadi. Khichadi is also the name of a traditional dish that everyone cooks for the occasion. The festival has religious significance, with people expected to make some kind of donation. For the past ten years, I have donated blood on this day, but unfortunately, I couldn’t this year.

I went to the hospital to donate blood, but they turned me away because I was suffering from a cold and cough. I’ll try again in a week. I did manage to fly a few kites, but not as many as I had hoped. I bought about fifty kites, but only managed to fly five myself. My friends flew the rest. The festival is more of a family event now; people gather on their rooftops, enjoy loud music, eat Khichadi, and fly kites all day. The number of kite flyers has decreased significantly over the years. The sky used to be filled with kites, but now it’s much emptier.

Many parents today discourage their children from flying kites, associating it with risky behavior. They prefer taking their kids to McDonald’s for junk food and Coca-Cola, but see kite flying as undesirable. I think kite flying is a far better activity than sitting in front of the TV watching political debates. Unfortunately, there are some risks associated with the festival. Each year, around 15-20 kids get injured from falling off rooftops, and occasionally, there are fatalities. Despite the dangers, kite flying remains a lot of fun.

Another danger associated with kite flying involves the use of Chinese strings, which contain a lot of iron. While it’s common to get minor cuts from kite strings, the iron in Chinese strings can lead to tetanus if not treated. Additionally, if Chinese strings come into contact with electrical wires, they can cause electric shocks. In Varanasi, where many electrical wires are exposed, this is a real concern. Indian kite strings, which only contain glass powder, are safer, but many people prefer the Chinese ones because they are stronger, despite the risks.

When I ask my foreign friends about kite flying in their countries, it often sounds less exciting. For example, my friend Adam in Chicago boasted about his ability to maneuver kites in different directions and spin them around using special equipment. I laughed when I heard this because we do similar tricks with just one string. I showed him our kites, and he was amazed that we could spin them and cut other kites down with a single string.

I asked him if kite-cutting was common in his country, and he said, “No.” To me, kite-cutting is a crucial part of the fun. We’re hosting an international kite festival in Gujarat this year, with participants from various countries. But, as usual, it’s likely that India, China, or Pakistan will take the top prize.

Chicago guest learns Hindi

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An anthropology student named Adam Sergent from the University of Chicago stayed at my guest house for a month. Like Lane and Dave, Adam wanted to learn Hindi with Bhasha Bharti. Although he had initially intended to study Hindi with Bhasha Bharti for three months, he had to adjust his plans. Bhasha Bharti didn’t have the availability for a full three months, so Adam decided to study in Varanasi for a month before moving to Mussoorie for the remaining two months. Adam had previously studied Hindi with Virendra Singh at Wisconsin University, so his proficiency was moderate.

When I asked why he wasn’t continuing with Virendra Singh in Varanasi, he explained that Virendra Singh spends summers in the U.S. teaching at Wisconsin University and only returns to India for the winter sessions. Adam attended classes at Bhasha Bharti for six hours a day, but found the schedule inconvenient, with classes from 8 to 11 in the morning and 4 to 7 in the evening. After about 15 days, he decided to leave early to conduct research related to his future work in India. He was pursuing a PhD at the University of Chicago with a focus on labor at construction sites.

Adam had a positive experience learning Hindi at Bhasha Bharti, although he had some minor complaints about the classroom environment. He noted that his chair was positioned under a fan, causing dust to fall on him regularly. Despite these issues, he was generally satisfied with his time there. He then traveled to Delhi to observe construction sites for his research. He provided my brother’s contact information in Delhi for local assistance. Unfortunately, after spending just two days in Delhi and sampling the local food, Adam fell ill. He was hospitalized for three days and received four drips. This experience made me question the quality of Delhi’s food, as I also had problems during my last visit there.

Adam managed to reach Mussoorie to continue his Hindi studies at a local school, with accommodation arranged through the school. However, upon arrival, he found the door to his lodging locked. The house owner informed him that they had relocated to Dehradun for the month and could not host him.

Adam reached out to me for assistance in finding alternative housing in Mussoorie. I contacted a friend in Dehradun who helped locate a new place, but by the time it was found, Adam had already secured alternative accommodation. Due to a family issue, Adam decided to cancel his Hindi classes and leave Mussoorie earlier than planned.