Tag Archives: boat ride in varanasi

Shivratri 2010

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It was Shivratri on the 12th, and I was incredibly excited for it. Shivratri is the biggest festival in Varanasi, celebrated as the wedding anniversary of Lord Shiva. There are over six thousand temples in Varanasi, but only 11 of them organize a wedding parade for Lord Shiva. The parade begins at various temples and culminates near the Vishwanath Temple (the Golden Temple). The most popular and grandest parade starts at the Mahamrityunjay Temple and is the final parade of the day. I attended the parade with my friends, and it was absolutely amazing.

Lord Shiva and Parvati

Bhang, which is associated with Lord Shiva and an integral part of Varanasi’s culture, is consumed by many people during the festival as a blessing from Lord Shiva. People take a bath in the Ganges, perform rituals at Shiva temples, offer bhang, and then consume it. The entire city is decorated with lights, free bhang drinks are served everywhere, and people come out to join the festivities. It’s so much fun—I love this festival. It is said that during Lord Shiva’s wedding, a diverse array of characters participated, including gods, goddesses, ghosts, demons, and more. Consequently, the wedding parade featured all sorts of characters.

The parade included people wearing ghost masks, individuals dressed as gods and goddesses, snake charmers, hijras, and various animals like cows, bulls, goats, dogs, horses, and elephants. There were people smoking ganja, and the scene was quite chaotic. One man dressed as Lord Shiva was leading the parade. He was extremely high on bhang, almost sleeping while walking. I had seen the same man in last year’s parade, and I suspect he was deliberately given a lot of bhang, as he was also nearly unconscious last year. He struggled to walk, would occasionally faint, and either walked slowly with his eyes closed, danced, or fainted. I doubt Lord Shiva fainted at his wedding, but Varanasi’s bhang certainly has that effect on people!

ghost

The man carried a trident and a damru, and wore a dhatura garland. He performed the Tandav dance for a short time, then would faint. As he fainted or fell asleep, people chanted “Har Har Mahadev” (a chant for Lord Shiva) and “Jago Baba” (meaning “wake up, baba”) to rouse him. The noise from thousands of people shouting “Har Har Mahadev” was deafening, and I thoroughly enjoyed it. I’m not sure how anyone can survive after consuming so much bhang, but he seemed to be holding on.

Character playing Lord Shiva fainted due to intoxication of Bhang

The festival featured loud music, with drums playing everywhere, but I particularly enjoyed the Nagada drum. The Nagada is a traditional Varanasi instrument used in both wedding and funeral parades. We take pride in our Nagada performances. Josh, wanting to try bhang, bought a glass of bhang lassi without consulting me. He expected it to have an immediate effect like alcohol, but bhang takes time to work. Later, he asked me for more bhang lassi, so I took him to a reputable shop, not realizing he had already consumed some.

Bhang Thandai

After drinking more than half a glass of bhang lassi, Josh said it wasn’t making him high, and I explained it would take some time. He asked how long, and I told him at least two hours. He then revealed he had already drunk a glass of bhang lassi an hour earlier. I advised against drinking a second glass, but he insisted he could handle it. Although I knew two glasses of bhang were too much, he believed he’d be fine. It’s been over 48 hours since his second glass, and he’s still asleep in his room. When I asked if he would ever drink bhang again, he said never.

elephants were also there

Many documentaries have been made about Varanasi and its festivals, but none focus specifically on this one. I had planned to film the festival but couldn’t due to my commitments with Josh’s project and a lack of resources. Now, Josh wants to help me make a documentary about the festival, and I’m really looking forward to it. I’ll do my best to capture the essence of this festival, and I’m sure it will be a lot of fun. The festival is over now, and I’m already excited for next year. Har Har Mahadev!

Lord Shiva

Guide training program – week 1 and week 2

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The first two weeks of the guide training program are complete, and I am genuinely impressed with the quality of education here. The institute is excellent, and the professors are both helpful and friendly. On the first day, we were introduced to the institute and its staff. They also briefed us on swine flu, including its symptoms, and advised us to take care of our health. If anyone exhibits symptoms, there is a designated department at the institute to assist them by arranging visits to a government hospital.

The professors here are exceptional. Many of them teach at foreign universities annually. This is a stark contrast to my previous experience with strict teachers at my previous schools and university. Here, the professors are very approachable and use a lot of technology. They all have laptops and use projectors to present PowerPoint slides. Initially, the training was to be conducted at the institute, but due to a lack of available air-conditioned rooms—occupied by other programs—the venue was changed. We are now using a hotel conference room with air conditioning.

Participants are divided into four batches: A, B, C, and D. Batches A and B attend sessions from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., while batches C and D have sessions from 2:15 p.m. to 6:15 p.m. I am in the second batch. Over 95% of the participants are experienced unauthorized guides, and I am the only one in my batch without prior experience with a travel agency. Some participants are over 55 years old.

Before each session, the professors encourage participants to share their knowledge if they disagree with any content, as they acknowledge that we may have more information in certain areas. Our professors are not only from IITTM but also from various universities and institutions across India. Each day features a different professor lecturing on a new subject. The institute emphasizes that a tour guide is a living encyclopedia and therefore invites experts from diverse fields to provide comprehensive training.

While our training focuses on North India, we have had professors discussing other regions, such as the West and South. Most classes have been engaging, but two stood out as particularly unusual. One was on Indian astrology, which could have been interesting if it had covered the basics. Instead, the professor delved into advanced topics and was more focused on marketing his services, offering his business card and inviting us to his office in Rajasthan for personal consultations.

Another class, on menu planning in hotels, was less relevant to our training. It would have been more interesting if it had covered hotel culture, but instead, it focused on how hotels plan their menus and generate revenue from their restaurants. None of the participants found this class particularly useful or relevant to our guide training.

We are receiving instruction on a wide range of topics, including different segments of tourism, religions, cultures, cuisine, IT in tourism, and the tourism industry both in India and abroad. One segment that particularly intrigued me was LGBT tourism. I had not been familiar with this aspect of tourism before, but it seems fascinating. Given that no other students are focusing on this topic, I see it as a unique opportunity to align my research with the guide training program.

The professors are also addressing various social issues, such as the Coca-Cola controversy, environmental concerns, water issues, and women’s rights. In a class on IT in tourism, we covered blogging. Although I already knew about blogging, emailing, and web design, I inquired about search engine optimization. The professor did not address it, likely because most participants were unfamiliar with the Internet and he did not want to delve into advanced topics in that context. Nonetheless, I enjoyed the class.

The program coordinator mentioned that we should be proud of the training provided, noting that previous programs had only organized around 20 classes, whereas this year’s program includes at least 75 classes on various subjects. I am thoroughly enjoying the training and am eagerly anticipating my research on LGBT tourism in Benares.

Research on secular philosophers and cremationists

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Adam, a PhD candidate at the University of Chicago, returned to Benares and stayed at my place again. This year, he aimed to conduct preliminary research for his upcoming study in India. Although he wanted to study Hindi, he had decided to go to Mussoorie for that purpose. Adam was interested in two main subjects: laborers at construction sites and Doams (the individuals who work at cremation sites). Accompanying him this year was his fiancée, Megan, who is conducting research for her school, Smith College, in Boston, on secular Indian philosophers. She was looking to gather data on philosophers active between 1850 and 1940.

Megan had initially gone to the University of Mysore but had not found any useful resources due to a lack of assistance. Frustrated, she left Mysore and came to Benares with hopes of better luck at BHU. She wanted to visit the BHU library and consult with professors from the philosophy department. I enlisted the help of a friend from BHU, who guided us through the university. Our first stop was the International Students Center, where we met an officer who directed us to the head of the central library.

When we met with the head of the library, both Adam and Megan were impressed by the facilities at BHU, noting that the library was far superior to that of the University of Mysore. They praised the helpfulness of the staff at BHU. Megan was asked to write a formal request for permission to use the library, and after submitting it, we were granted access to the books. We toured the library with a few staff members who showed us around. Megan found several valuable books for her research, but unfortunately, the books were too old and fragile to be photocopied.

Instead, she had to request digital copies. The library staff asked us to return in five days to collect the digital formats. Afterward, we visited the philosophy department and met a professor who was more interested in showcasing his own work than in discussing Megan’s research. He spent an hour talking about his books before finally asking what Megan needed. She explained her research, and he suggested she return the next day to explore the philosophy department’s library, which he claimed contained relevant books.

Returning home, Megan felt positive about the day’s progress, especially after the promising experience at BHU, which contrasted sharply with her frustrating visit to the University of Mysore. I was pleased for Megan’s successful research day. Adam, meanwhile, wanted to interview a Doam, so I took him to Harishchandra Ghat and introduced him to a contact I had met while working on CBC’s documentary *Myths and Might*. We met at the ghat, and he took us to the electric crematorium where he worked. This was my first visit to an electric burner, and it turned out to be the perfect setting for Adam’s interview.

Over the next few hours, Adam and Megan asked the Doam various questions about his personal life, social status, and experiences of discrimination. To show his appreciation, Adam wanted to give a gift, so I asked the Doam about the nearest sweet shop. The Doam explained that they preferred alcohol over sweets, so we ended up buying him a bottle of whiskey instead.