Category Archives: NGO

Kolkata Gay Pride 2010

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Beginning of the Parade

I had the opportunity to attend Kolkata Gay Pride on the 2nd of July. I arrived in Kolkata on the 1st, after attending Chennai Pride and spending a few days in Bangalore. My friend Sourendra from Mumbai introduced me to Mr. Rajshree Chakrobarty, Secretary of the Dum Dum Society and one of the organizers of Kolkata Pride. I knew that Kolkata was the first city in India to host a pride march, so I expected it to be the biggest one this year as well. But when I reached the parade venue, I was shocked to see that there were hardly 50 people present.

Begining of the parade

Mr. Chakrobarty Explains

Before I could even ask, Mr. Chakrobarty told me why the turnout was so low. He explained that most of the organizations working on gay rights in Kolkata had boycotted the parade due to internal politics. As a result, only the Dum Dum Society and another group called Anandam organized the event this year. I was surprised to hear this but also glad that at least someone took the initiative to keep the parade alive.

Mr. Chakrobarty

The Parade

The parade began at Jatin Das Park near Hazra Crossing and ended at the Academy of Fine Arts. It started with around 40–50 participants but was lively and full of energy. Having attended several pride parades in India over the past year, I found Kolkata’s to be the most liberal and open. Nobody wore masks to hide their identity. An auto rickshaw with loudspeakers led the march while participants sang songs about human rights, equality, and gender justice. They also distributed pamphlets about LGBT rights.

Good message

Growing Numbers

It rained for most of the march, but that didn’t stop people from joining. By the time we reached the Academy of Fine Arts, the crowd had grown to over 100 participants. The most inspiring moment for me was seeing so many young lesbian couples join towards the end. I had never seen so many lesbians at a pride event in India—not in Mumbai, Delhi, or Chennai. What struck me most was their age: they were very young, unlike the older women I had usually seen. These young women knew their families would find out if they marched publicly, but they still chose to participate. That level of openness and courage really impressed me.

Very colorful event

Speeches and Performances

At the Academy, the parade concluded with speeches by Mr. Ranjeet Sinha, Mr. Rajshree Chakrobarty, and other social activists. Later, I joined Mr. Chakrobarty for a cultural program organized by Saathi, which provided a platform for the LGBT community to showcase their talents. The program included dance performances, fashion shows featuring designs created by LGBT members, and traditional Kolkata songs. I was amazed by the quality of the performances. The municipality chairman attended as the chief guest, and the event drew a crowd of nearly 500 people—much larger than the parade itself.

Cultural dance performance

Learning from Kolkata

During my time there, I interviewed Mr. Chakrobarty, Mr. Ranjeet Sinha, and several others from the community. Mr. Chakrobarty told me that gay activism in Kolkata began as early as 1989, making it one of the first cities in India to do so. Today, there are about six or seven organizations working on LGBT rights in the city. He explained that conditions for LGBT people in the city are better than in suburban or rural areas, largely due to greater media presence and more active organizations. However, compared to Mumbai and Delhi, life in Kolkata is still more difficult, as it is the poorest metropolitan city in India.

the most important message

Discrimination and Social Challenges

Mr. Chakrobarty also pointed out that transgender people face the harshest discrimination because their identities are more visible. He emphasized that while all LGBT individuals face discrimination, trans people often bear the brunt of it. We also discussed the common misconception in India that homosexuality is a disease or a temporary fashion—something that can be “cured” by marriage or yoga, as suggested by figures like Baba Ramdev. Like others I have interviewed, he firmly said this is impossible: sexuality cannot be changed. Many gay men marry under family pressure but continue same-sex relationships, proving that marriage is not a solution.

She was very active

He also reminded me that homosexuality has always existed in Indian culture, citing references in Hindu scriptures, temple carvings, and even stories from the Ramayana. He noted that Section 377 was a colonial law imposed by the British, and that the Delhi High Court’s judgment to strike it down was a step toward justice.

Meeting Mr. Ranjeet Sinha

I also had the privilege of meeting Mr. Ranjeet Sinha, a transgender activist working in Kolkata and surrounding districts. He shared the struggles trans people face, including the lack of recognition in official documents like passports and voter IDs. He spoke about the humiliation trans people often face in public toilets and demanded separate facilities. He also told me about a transgender activist friend with AIDS who was forced by doctors to dress as a man before being admitted to the hospital. Mr. Sinha criticized NGOs for focusing solely on HIV/AIDS and neglecting broader issues affecting the transgender community. He praised South Indian states, especially Chennai, for making more progress on transgender rights.

Good slogan

Final Thoughts

Kolkata Pride may have been smaller this year, but it taught me so much. I was deeply inspired by the courage of the young participants, the dedication of people like Mr. Chakrobarty and Mr. Sinha, and the resilience of the community despite internal challenges. I sincerely hope that next year, all organizations will put aside their differences and come together to make Kolkata Pride as strong and vibrant as it deserves to be—a true celebration of equal rights for all.

He had a lot of fun

Coca-Cola Varanasi

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I worked with a journalist named Bart Spellers from the Netherlands, who was writing an article about the Coca-Cola controversy in India. He wanted to visit the disputed Coke sites across the country, including Mehdiganj near Varanasi. I assisted him in Varanasi as his local guide and translator. I was also eager for an opportunity to visit Mehdiganj again and speak directly with the people affected by Coca-Cola’s presence, so I was glad to take this job. I accompanied Bart to Mehdiganj and arranged interviews with Nandlal Master, a few plant employees, the union leader, several women, and local farmers.

Bart wasn’t interested in conducting too many interviews—he preferred speaking to a smaller group of the right people, since he had limited time in Varanasi. I was honestly surprised to learn how little time he had allocated for this work. Given that his article was on such a controversial subject, I felt he should have spent more time in Benares to gain a deeper understanding. Still, I think he did a good job overall, because he focused on meaningful conversations with key voices.

Although I was already familiar with the issue, I was still taken aback when I spoke with the people of Mehdiganj. I had hoped the situation might have improved over the past few years, but I quickly realized it was just as bad as when I first visited four years ago. The anger against Coca-Cola and the government was still intense. Residents told us that Coca-Cola was directly responsible for the depletion of groundwater in the area, while the government continued to turn a blind eye.

They said the situation had been deteriorating year by year. Last year, rainfall was below average, yet Coca-Cola’s market share in India had grown—naturally putting even more pressure on already scarce groundwater. Nandlal Master explained that a committee formed by the Prime Minister’s Office had completed a study of the issue and submitted its report, but the findings had not been made public. This seemed strange to me.

Why not release the report if the study is already finished? According to Nandlal, he had filed an RTI request to obtain a copy. The concerned department replied that the district magistrate had been instructed to provide him with the report. That is fine, but it still raises questions: why hide it in the first place? Why wasn’t the media informed? This silence from both the government and Coca-Cola only adds to the suspicion surrounding the issue.

For now, nothing has changed. People continue to struggle, and we are left with unanswered questions. Hopefully, one day, transparency and accountability will prevail—but when, no one can say.

Finally, Bart’s article was published here:
Coca-Cola zuigt de grond leeg

Josh Massad’s World Through Music

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I’m working with a musician named Josh Massad on a project called “World Through Music,” which focuses on teaching music and other subjects through music. Josh travels globally, teaching music to children in various regions. In the U.S., he introduces American kids to African and Indian music. In Africa, he teaches Indian and American music to African kids, and currently, in India, he’s teaching African, American, and Asian music to children in Varanasi. About a month ago, Josh contacted me to see if I would be interested in collaborating on this project.

Josh with village kids

The project intrigued me, so I agreed to assist him. My role involves organizing his performances at schools throughout Varanasi. To give Josh and his project broad exposure, I arranged for him to perform at a variety of schools, including city schools, village schools, private schools, government schools, play schools, and schools run by NGOs. In total, we planned around 50 performances over 25 days, with 25 performances at village schools where children come from very poor families, 10 at NGO-run training centers for girls, 10 at city schools, and about 5 at schools run by NGOs.

Josh teaching Kanjira

One of the performances is scheduled at a school for children of sex workers in Varanasi. These children often face difficulties gaining admission to traditional schools due to a lack of residential proof and documentation about their parents. An NGO in Varanasi has started a school specifically for these children, and we will be working with them as well. Additionally, we’ve organized performances with children from my educational program and with daytime child laborers in Mehdiganj, where Lok Samiti runs evening classes for them.

Dancing with a kid

Josh carries a map and various instruments from around the world. He starts by discussing geography, teaching about the seven continents and the countries within them. He then shows these locations on a map and introduces the instruments, explaining where each one originates. It was surprising to see that many village kids had little knowledge of geography; some didn’t even know which continent India is on or could name its states. I hope Josh’s lessons will spark their curiosity and expand their knowledge.

Josh teaching map

After introducing his instruments, Josh plays them for the kids and teaches them African songs. One song, in particular, is a favorite: “Fanga Alafia, Ashe Ashe,” a welcome song from Africa. The kids love singing it and joining in with Josh. He also teaches various clapping styles and occasionally introduces basic yoga techniques. The project is progressing well, and seeing the children’s enjoyment makes me happy. However, a few teachers have questioned the relevance of teaching African songs, expressing doubt about their impact.

showing an Indonesian instrument

I don’t expect the children to master all of Josh’s instruments or geography in a single day, but I am confident that his performances will ignite an interest in world geography and music. If they glance at a map even once at home, I’ll consider the project a success. Josh is planning to make a documentary about his work next year and wants me to organize the details. He is also considering starting a mobile school in India and again hopes I can help with the arrangements. He envisions bringing musicians from various places to travel with him and teach music and geography. It sounds incredibly exciting, and I’m looking forward to being part of it.

Kids also love to play the instruments

Mumbai Gay Pride 2009

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I attended Mumbai Gay Pride on August 16th. This date was chosen because the organizers of the event, from the gay community, decided to celebrate their freedom one day after India’s Independence Day on August 15th. They felt that while India gained freedom on that day, the gay community had yet to achieve their own freedom. The event was organized by an NGO called Humsafar, which works with the gay community in Mumbai. I had already been in touch with Humsafar about my project, and they were very welcoming. Although I was in Gwalior for training, I took a 4-day leave and flew to Mumbai, arriving on the night of the 14th.

 

I had attended this year’s Delhi Pride on June 26th and missed having a video camera. This time, I arranged for one to record the Mumbai Gay Pride. I asked my friend Yogesh, who works in Bollywood, to help me get a camera, and he provided everything I needed. On the 16th, I went to Humsafar with a cameraman and a friend from the US named Ryan, whom I had invited to join me at Mumbai Pride. My goals were to cover the parade preparations, interview a few people at Humsafar and at the parade, participate in the event, enjoy the party, and make new contacts for future collaborations.

I was scheduled to start interviews at Humsafar at noon, but upon arrival, I found several media personnel already interviewing their team. However, they arranged for someone to show me around their office, which was impressive. They had an HIV and AIDS testing center, which I had not seen in other NGOs before. The Humsafar representative took me to the second floor where preparations for the next day’s parade were underway. About 20 people, including some hijras, were practicing dances. They had a drummer playing Punjabi dhol and a large sound system. I was surprised to see them practicing traditional hijra dance.

I spent some time observing the preparations; the enthusiasm and hard work of the performers were evident. The performers were either homosexuals or hijras who sought assistance from Humsafar. The office representative informed me that the CEO of Humsafar, Mr. Vivek Raj Anand, had just arrived and offered me the opportunity to interview him. I felt fortunate to have a 15-minute interview with him, during which he demonstrated his deep knowledge and commitment to the issues.

I believe the gay community has always existed in India, but many view it as a foreign concept. Therefore, when interviewing people about gay culture, I ask about its history in India and its presence in Hindu religious texts. I believe that understanding its historical and religious context can make it easier for people to accept and support it. My goal was to interview people and share these interviews online. I conducted the interviews in Hindi to ensure that people in India could understand them. During the interviews, one interviewee shared stories from the Ramayana and other Hindu texts that indicated the presence of gay culture even during Ram’s time.

He discussed the challenges he faced, societal discrimination, and his hopes for the future. It was enlightening to learn about the history of gay culture in India, especially within Hinduism. Mr. Anand expressed interest in having me work with the MSM (men who have sex with men) community in Benares. He offered to help with funding or projects through the UP government, which was something I was eager to pursue. However, he mentioned that Humsafar does not operate outside Mumbai and Thane districts. They could provide support such as funding or training but would not extend their work beyond these areas.

Since my NGO, Sanjeevani Booti, was not yet registered under section 12A, I would not be able to collaborate with him soon. However, Sanjeevani Booti has now completed its first year, so I can apply for this registration. Mr. Anand also mentioned his gratitude to Baba Ramdev on behalf of the gay community. Baba Ramdev challenged the Delhi High Court’s judgment on Section 377 in the Supreme Court of India. Mr. Anand believed the Supreme Court would soon rule in favor of the gay community, leading to equal rights. I share his appreciation for Baba Ramdev’s efforts.

I interviewed Mr. Anand, the manager of Humsafar, one bisexual individual, two hijras, and a few gay men. It was a valuable experience hearing their stories. Despite their different backgrounds, they faced similar issues, primarily discrimination. The Humsafar manager shared his struggle to obtain a passport with a gender marker reflecting his identity as a female or hijra. Government officials were unfamiliar with the concept of transgender identities, and he had sued the government over this issue. He is currently preparing for a gender change operation but faces obstacles due to the lack of a passport.

I also interviewed a Muslim gay man with two hijras. This was my first interview with a Muslim gay individual. He shared that his family would never accept his desire to marry a man, leaving him with the choice to either escape or remain unmarried. The hijras provided fascinating insights into their community, revealing that there are two types of hijras, each with different customs and levels of respect. I had always been confused about the distinction between “hijra” and “gay.” The hijras explained that educated people use the term “gay,” while uneducated people use “hijra.” They also discussed the challenges faced by the hijra community in India, which mirrored those faced by others I interviewed.

They mentioned the existence of two types of hijras: those who marry a hijra goddess and can live with their families, and those who bless and dance at weddings. One of the bisexual interviewees was a male sex worker. It was my first encounter with a male sex worker, and our conversation was eye-opening. He recounted his experiences and challenges, including an amusing story about mistakenly offering condoms to a policeman. The first day focused on observing preparations and conducting interviews at Humsafar. After finishing the interviews, we waited for an auto-rickshaw when I met Sourendra, a 25-26-year-old who was also gay and frequented Humsafar. We went to a litti-chokha (a famous Bihari food) party with my friend and interviewed Sourendra over dinner at 1 a.m.

I regretted bringing Sourendra to the party because his presence attracted unwanted attention from other guests. Despite the discomfort, Sourendra was open and energetic, discussing his experiences with discrimination and societal expectations. He shared an intriguing story about the existence of gays and hijras during Krishna’s time, which I had never heard before. After the parade, my friend Bijay took me to a renowned restaurant near August Kranti Marg. Following a few beers, we went to Bijay’s hotel and later to a party at a disco. The Mumbai party was distinct from the Delhi party, being organized by participants rather than the parade organizers.

Despite the Rs. 500 entry fee, the party was lively and had a larger turnout, including more lesbian couples. I drank too much and got drunk, witnessing many gay couples showing affection. The Mumbai Gay Pride seemed more organized compared to Delhi’s. There was a van with banners, posters, masks, and t-shirts, though the t-shirts sold out quickly. They also distributed bottled water and had volunteers collecting trash, making it a cleaner event. Many people watched the parade from their balconies, and some joined spontaneously. The Mumbai parade featured more transgenders and hijras than Delhi’s, with a group performing traditional hijra dance.

The parade ended at August Kranti Marg with speeches from social workers and NGO members about gay rights and future plans. I also interviewed a gay couple at the beach nearby. Regarding Section 377’s repeal, I found that everyone I spoke to was happy about it. A participant explained that such laws are crucial for societal change, and while Section 377 did not directly impact gay culture, it altered societal attitudes over time. With its repeal, there is hope for equal rights in the future, even if it may take decades. After the parade, Bijay and I went to a disco party. The Mumbai party, organized by participants, had a higher turnout and was different from Delhi’s.

Although I had to leave early for a 6 a.m. flight back to Bhopal, the party was memorable. Ryan helped me pack and get to the airport. Despite the craziness, I thoroughly enjoyed the trip, meeting new people, learning about their experiences, and establishing connections with Humsafar. They have invited me to the parade next year, and I plan to attend. My friend Sanjay, who initially thought my project was crazy, changed his perspective after hearing the interviews. He now supports equal rights for gays.

The stories I shared about gay culture in Hindu religion helped shift his view. I believe that if more people learn about the historical presence of gays in Hindu culture, acceptance will grow. The main issue behind discrimination against gays in India is a communication gap, especially regarding sex practices, compounded by the 150 years of Section 377. This law deeply affected societal attitudes, but historically, gay practices were part of Hindu culture. The British altered everything, and as we slowly address the issues they left behind, I hope we can also overcome this outdated system.

—

Delhi Gay Pride 2009 – parade

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I attended the Delhi Gay Pride on the 26th and was thrilled to experience it firsthand. Having heard so much about the vibrant and festive nature of gay pride festivals, I was eager to see it for myself. I arrived in Delhi on the 24th, and Adam and Megan joined me for the parade. Although they had initially planned to go to Benares, they changed their flights to come to Delhi and be part of the event with me.

They had arranged for band performances to provide music. When I arrived, around two thousand people were already present. I asked the organizer about the expected turnout, and he mentioned that while last year they had anticipated about 500 attendees, they ended up with around 1500. This year, they were hoping for about 2500 participants. He also noted that media support had been strong the previous year and was expected to be similar this year. Indeed, there were numerous media representatives covering the event. The police were also present, though it was unclear whether their assistance was a formal obligation or a voluntary act of support, but they were definitely helping.

I spent my time wandering around and observing the festivities. Initially, I had planned to speak with the participants, but once I arrived and saw how joyful and immersed they were in the celebration, I decided against interrupting them. What struck me the most was that the parade included not just gay individuals, but also many straight people and families. There were numerous foreigners as well. I spoke with a few of them about their reasons for attending, and they all gave similar responses—primarily, they were there to support the cause.

The organizing committee had provided masks for those who wished to conceal their identities, and many participants, including straight people and families, chose to use them. While I understand that gay culture is still not fully accepted in India, which might explain why some in the LGBTQ+ community wore masks, I was puzzled by the presence of masks among straight participants. If they were so reluctant to be seen, I questioned why they were participating at all. I believe that it’s important for everyone to step forward and openly support the cause; only through such visibility and advocacy can the gay community in India achieve the recognition and acceptance it deserves.

I overheard some LGBTQ+ individuals speaking with the media. When asked about their experiences, they all shared similar sentiments: they feel ridiculed and believe they lack equal rights. As the parade began, the atmosphere was charged with energy, joy, and happiness. The band had started playing, and everyone was in high spirits. Many people danced with their partners, while others danced alone, waving the rainbow flag high. The parade was scheduled to start at 5 PM, but as with many things in India, it was delayed. This was the first time I didn’t mind the delay.

Finally, around 5:45 PM, the parade began. The vibrant energy, joy, and happiness I witnessed were only matched by a previous experience I had in Mehndiganj in 2007 during a rally against Coca-Cola. There was loud music, people jumping, shouting, dancing, and laughing—it was exhilarating. The atmosphere and the people filled me with an incredible sense of energy. A massive rainbow flag, carried by nearly twenty people, was a highlight of the parade. They jumped and danced with it, creating a stunning visual effect. The music was vibrant, and the whole scene was absolutely exhilarating.

The participants of the parade were very modern and liberal in their attire. Many had customized masks, caps, hats, and outfits. I saw several girls dressed in just shorts and bras, adorned with tattoos—something quite uncommon in India. The hijras also attended, dressed in a way that was noticeably different from their usual attire. As the parade began to move, more and more people joined in. A large number of students arrived, and by this point, the crowd had swelled to around 3,000 participants. Many onlookers stood along both sides of the road, watching the parade with interest.

I noticed people emerging from restaurants and shops, eagerly joining the festivities. The participants carried a variety of banners, posters, and flyers, each with different slogans emblazoned on their clothing and bodies. Many participants had their faces painted in vibrant rainbow colors. I had brought around 100 HIV & AIDS educational pamphlets to distribute among the crowd, and Adam and Megan kindly helped me with this task. We handed out the pamphlets quickly, but I noticed an interesting pattern: while some people were hesitant to take a pamphlet, others were very eager. A few individuals even approached us specifically asking for one.

One elderly man took a pamphlet and returned to Adam, expressing a desire to discuss the material inside. Adam asked the elderly man to speak with me, and he approached me with a question. He asked if I worked in HIV & AIDS, to which I confirmed. He then inquired if I supported the gay community and gay rights, and I affirmed that I did. However, he raised a surprising point. He questioned how I could support gay rights while working on HIV & AIDS, asserting that gays are responsible for the spread of HIV worldwide. His tone was somewhat agitated, and while I wanted to engage in a discussion about his perspective, the parade was moving, so I handed him my business card and suggested we continue the conversation at a later time.

He never reached out to me again, but it was disheartening to hear him blame the gay community for the spread of HIV & AIDS. While it’s true that gay men are at a higher risk of contracting HIV compared to heterosexual individuals, that doesn’t mean they are solely responsible for its spread. Many argue that gay people often practice safer sex compared to straights. I believe that the Indian government’s handling of HIV & AIDS programs and the corruption within the public health sector play a larger role in the spread of the disease, rather than the gay community itself.

I also spoke with a gay man who was interviewed by a journalist. He mentioned that he had been in a gay relationship for the past five years and was proud of it. He pointed out that gay individuals are often more knowledgeable about safe sex and STDs than heterosexuals, highlighting that education and awareness are crucial in managing health risks. The journalist asked him if he had informed his family about his sexuality, and he shared that while his father was aware, his mother sometimes referred to him as part of the hijra community. It’s clear that many people still confuse gays with hijras, not understanding the differences between them.

When the parade reached Jantar Mantar, it came to a stop for a series of speeches by social activists, gay rights supporters, NGO representatives, and a few participants. Some of those who had been wearing masks during the parade removed them when they took the stage. It was striking to see the shift in their demeanor—from being shy earlier to confidently expressing themselves in front of the crowd. The change in their confidence was palpable and marked a powerful moment of visibility and solidarity. The speakers declared loudly that they were no longer shy and were proud to be gay.

The speeches covered various topics, including Section 377 and other LGBTQ+ rights issues. As a symbolic gesture, the organizer invited everyone to light a candle. I joined in and lit a candle myself. With the parade concluded, the focus shifted to the party, which was set to begin at 9:30 PM at M Lounge bar in Sector 15, Noida. It was around 7 o’clock, and the organizers asked participants to regroup at 8:30. They had arranged several buses to transport everyone to the party venue. I was eagerly looking forward to the celebration.

HIV, AIDS education pamphlet distribution

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A student from the University of Montana, USA, contacted me expressing interest in volunteering for my organization and staying at my guest house. I was also looking to initiate a project for sex workers in Benares, so I asked if he would help me organize a program for them. He was very enthusiastic about the idea. Although we didn’t manage to start the program for sex workers due to his busy schedule in Benares and some unexpected tasks I needed to complete, we did distribute pamphlets during the Maha Murkh Sammelan (Biggest Fool Conference).

This festival is uniquely Benares and is celebrated annually on April 1st. This year, over 3,000 people attended the conference. Since Winslow and I were the only ones distributing pamphlets, we aimed to reach around 200-250 people. We set up on the steps of Rajendra Prasad Ghat and began handing out pamphlets. Our target audience was people aged 15 to 45, with a particular focus on those aged 15 to 30. While people were not very interested in taking pamphlets from me, they were quite receptive to Winslow.

Winslow distributed all his pamphlets first, and then I handed him most of mine, so we ended up distributing nearly 150 pamphlets. Initially, we focused on attendees at the festival, but later we wandered along the river, distributing more pamphlets to young people. On April 2nd, Nandlal Master organized an event to inaugurate a water cooler, a computer room, and sewing machines donated to his organization, Lok Samiti. The water cooler was provided by Union Bank of India, and the other items were donated by an organization from South India.

Nandlal had informed me that 600-700 people were expected at the event, so we planned to distribute pamphlets there as well. However, the crowd consisted mainly of children under 10 or adults over 45, so we decided it was best not to distribute pamphlets. Nandlal has also asked me to organize an HIV/AIDS education program for his Kishori centers. These centers are schools run by Lok Samiti and ASHA for girls over 13 years old, with each center hosting about 50-75 girls.

Winslow’s friend, who had lived in Varanasi for a year about two years ago, knew the principal of Delhi Public School and suggested that Winslow meet him. Winslow relayed this to me, and I asked him to inquire whether the school would allow us to organize an HIV/AIDS education workshop there. Delhi Public School is an English-medium school and one of the most prestigious in Benares, if not India. I’ve always wanted to work with English-medium schools because their students are at high risk of contracting STDs, and there’s a lack of sex education in India despite the co-educational system.

This presents a valuable opportunity for me to get involved with English-medium schools, and I am looking forward to it. However, there is a significant issue with funding, which remains unresolved.

Sex worker children rights rally

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I participated in a rally organized by Durbar to advocate for the rights of children of sex workers. The rally began at Durbar’s office in Sonagachi, a well-known red-light district. Seranna, the rest of the crew, and I arrived at the office around 6:30 in the evening. The rally was scheduled to start at 7:00, and we were all very excited. Upon arriving, I noticed hundreds of policemen stationed around the office. At first, I was concerned, but it turned out they were there to ensure our safety. By that time, about 3,000 people were already gathered, most of them children of sex workers. They were lined up and holding various banners, ready for the event.

There were also many Hijras and transgender individuals present. A group of children of sex workers was set to lead the rally with music and dance, which I found to be a fantastic addition. The rally kicked off around 7 o’clock, and by then, there were approximately 5,000 people in attendance, making it a massive event. Starting from Durbar’s office, the rally meandered through the narrow alleys of Sonagachi, the largest red-light district in India. Seranna and I were at the front, enthusiastically cheering alongside the children of sex workers.

Just a few minutes into the march, we reached the heart of the red-light district. Sex workers were visible everywhere—on the streets, on the rooftops of brothels, and peering out from their windows. Despite being well-dressed, their unhappiness and ill health were palpable. None of them wanted their pictures taken; they would immediately turn away upon seeing a camera. This reaction was disheartening and underscored their fear of exposure, which is a direct result of their marginalization and separation from society. It was a reality I hadn’t fully anticipated.

I also took a look inside some of the brothels, and what I saw was hard to believe. The conditions were appalling—filthy beyond imagination, with no proper ventilation and bottles of alcohol scattered everywhere. The grim state wasn’t limited to just the brothels; the entire neighborhood was in a state of severe disarray. Many of the people I saw appeared to be drug users, visibly suffering from physical and mental ailments. It felt like a scene from a third-world country. Although I was aware that Indian sex workers face harsh conditions, I had no idea it was this dire. I had previously seen some brothels in Varanasi and nearby districts, but this experience made me realize just how extreme the situation can be.

Children of sex workers

The conditions in the brothels are deplorable: there is no proper ventilation, inadequate food, and no access to healthcare. The workers are confined to the brothels and, despite these harsh conditions, they barely make a decent living. In India, sex work is extremely undervalued. Some of the sex workers I interviewed for the documentary revealed that they sometimes charge as little as Rs. 50 per customer, from which they have to give half to the brothel owner. It was a grim situation. We handed out many pamphlets detailing the rights of sex workers and their children, but I couldn’t understand the content as it was all written in Bengali.

Children carrying banners

One intriguing observation was the prevalence of effeminate behavior among the children of sex workers in the cultural program and parade. Many of them identified as hijras or exhibited effeminate mannerisms. They would sometimes sing hijra songs. I had heard from sex workers and locals in Kolkata that children of sex workers are often abused by their mothers’ clients, which might explain their effeminate tendencies. While I’m unsure of the exact reasons, such a large concentration of hijras and effeminate individuals from one neighborhood is unusual in my society.

Women hiding their face from camera

Many locals in Kolkata informed me that some clients visit brothels and request young children. The brothel owners exploit this demand by forcing the children of sex workers, sometimes as young as 6 or 7, into sexual acts. This often happens without the mothers’ knowledge or consent. Even if they find out, they are powerless to stop it. The children are repeatedly subjected to sexual abuse whenever a client requests a young child. It’s heartbreaking to learn about the exploitation of sex workers and their children.

Participants at the rally

Some people suggested that because the children of sex workers spend most of their time with their mothers, are isolated from male influences, and are often abused, it can affect their development and lead to effeminacy. I can’t say for certain if this is true, but it might be partially accurate. Despite these challenges, the children were wonderful with their dancing and music, and some of them played the drums as well. Midway through the rally, we were joined by the renowned hijra activist Laxmi Narayan Tripathi, who is well-known for representing hijras and transgender individuals across Asia.

Some more banners

She was brimming with energy and enthusiasm for the rally. She jumped, clapped, danced, and shouted with such fervor—it was incredibly fun to watch. I thoroughly enjoyed being part of it. I joined in the dancing and tried my best to sing along to their Bengali songs, though I struggled with the pronunciation. I especially enjoyed when they sang the Hindi song “Hum Honge Kamyab” (We Will Be Successful), and I sang along with them. It was a truly amazing experience to be with these children fighting for their rights. Eventually, we reached a large park where the parade concluded. Various speakers took the stage to share their thoughts and address the community.

Participants at the rally

A few sex workers, social activists, and Laxmi addressed the crowd. They vowed to continue fighting for their rights with unwavering determination. The rally concluded, and we had caused a significant traffic jam. I thoroughly enjoyed the event, from the spirited participation of the sex workers’ children to the overall atmosphere of the rally. I am certain that I will return next year to support them again.

Laxmi Narayan Tripathi addressing the rally

Sex workers bank and sanitary pad factory

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Indian sex workers face significant barriers in opening a bank account due to strict requirements for residential proof and a guarantor. It is puzzling that banks mandate a guarantor, who must be an existing account holder at the same bank, for account opening. Without a guarantor and with no official residential proof, many sex workers are unable to access banking services. This requirement further marginalizes those already living on the fringes of society, making it even harder for them to achieve financial stability.

Durbar Office

For a long time, sex workers faced immense difficulty in opening bank accounts, which prevented them from saving money securely. Their savings were often stolen—either by brothel owners or clients. To address this issue, Durbar advocated for policy changes to allow sex workers to open bank accounts without the need for a guarantor or formal residential proof. Despite these efforts, both the government and banks refused to make these changes. In response, Durbar sought a different solution: they requested permission from the government to establish a co-operative society specifically for sex workers. After significant effort and negotiation, they finally received approval to move forward with this initiative.

Seranna with the ladies working at the worksite

Durbar has now established a co-operative society exclusively for sex workers, with twelve thousand members saving their money through this system. This society operates much like a traditional bank, offering services such as loans and savings accounts. For sex workers who are confined to brothels and unable to visit the bank in person, Durbar’s staff travels from brothel to brothel to collect deposits. I had the chance to visit the bank and saw many sex workers managing their banking needs directly. This initiative has significantly benefited the community, providing not only a secure place for saving money but also access to loans when needed.

Production process

This development represents a major step forward in supporting the financial independence and empowerment of sex workers. In the same bank building, there’s a small shop dedicated to sex workers, offering daily essentials at prices lower than market rates. This shop is exclusive to sex workers, but it also features a section for items like toys and clothes created by sex workers, their children, or their family members. Seranna and I took the opportunity to shop there and were impressed by the concept. Additionally, Durbar has launched a factory that produces sanitary pads, employing only sex workers.

Final Product

This initiative is another remarkable effort by Durbar to support and empower the community. The combination of the bank, shop, and factory reflects the organization’s commitment to improving the lives of sex workers in innovative and impactful ways. The operation was impressively organized. Durbar had brought in an MBA professional to assist with launching their product in the market. Accompanied by Seranna and the camera crew, I had the opportunity to film at the factory, which was conveniently located at the entrance of Sonagachi, the red light district. At the factory, I observed about ten women working. Many of them appeared to be over 55 years old.

They explained that as they age, opportunities in the sex industry diminish, making it crucial for them to secure a stable income. The job at the factory provided them with much-needed financial stability. I found this project highly commendable, as it not only offers employment but also respects the dignity and contribution of these women.

A lady making Sanitary pads

25 new HIV patients everyday

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Today, Claire and I visited the NACO (National AIDS Control Organization) center at BHU to obtain data on HIV patients in Varanasi for our upcoming school workshop. Initially, the counselor refused to provide any data and directed us to seek permission from the head of the department first. Despite informing her that we were from an NGO, she remained unwilling to share any information. We then went to the head of the department’s office but were unable to meet him as he was occupied with another matter.

We spent two hours waiting in the counselor’s room, where we observed many people coming in for testing. I met a girl who is HIV-positive and now volunteers at the NACO center. After spending some time with Claire, the counselor warmed up to us and eventually provided the information we needed. I suspect her change of heart was influenced by Claire’s presence. She mentioned that NACO has testing centers in many districts across Uttar Pradesh, but the BHU center is the only one in Poorvanchal with an ELISA testing facility.

Poorvanchal is a region in Uttar Pradesh comprising seventeen districts. I was surprised to learn that people seeking HIV tests from across the region ultimately come to the Varanasi center. Although testing is available in their own districts, those results are not considered final. The ELISA test, which is the most reliable, is only available at the BHU center in Poorvanchal. The counselor noted a significant increase in HIV cases over the past few years. When she started her job nine years ago, they saw around five to six hundred people seeking tests each month. Today, that number has risen to between one hundred fifty and two hundred.

She also reported that a few years ago, they had fifty to a hundred positive results each month, but now they have at least twenty-five positive results every day. This increase was staggering and hard to believe. Interestingly, these figures only reflect those who have been referred by doctors; it doesn’t account for individuals who may be unaware of their HIV status. The counselor expressed concern that the number of positive cases will likely continue to rise due to inadequate government action.

She was dissatisfied with her job, citing a low salary. According to her, while WHO provides substantial funding to the Indian government, and then the Indian government allocates money to the Uttar Pradesh government and NACO, much of the funding is consumed by politicians and others involved in the project. One positive aspect of their work is that they now provide free ARVs (antiretrovirals) to HIV-positive patients, but only to those with a CD4 count below a critical level. Although I inquired about the specific CD4 threshold, she did not disclose it.

AIDS survey in Mehdiganj, Varanasi

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Lok Samiti organized a group wedding for 30 couples in Mehdiganj, expecting over ten thousand attendees. I saw this as a great opportunity to kick off Sanjeevni Booti’s work. I discussed the plan with Lane, and we decided to conduct a survey on HIV awareness and distribute pamphlets about basic knowledge of AIDS. Lane prepared the content for the pamphlets and created questions for the survey. I had 2,000 pamphlets and 200 survey sheets printed.  I needed additional help with the survey, so I asked my friends Raju, Sonu, and Bablu—who are also members of Sanjeevni Booti. Sonu agreed immediately, but Raju and Bablu were initially busy with other work.

To encourage them to help, I offered them a day’s salary. Raju agreed to this offer, but Bablu did not. Lane covered all expenses, including the pamphlets, survey sheets, and travel costs. I also needed some female volunteers to survey other women, but I couldn’t find any.  I asked Nandlal if any of Lok Samiti’s female members could assist with surveying women for Sanjeevni Booti. Nandlal agreed to send two females, but unfortunately, they were occupied with wedding preparations when we arrived. As a result, we could not conduct surveys with any women.

We ended up surveying over 80 people and distributed 1,000 pamphlets. I was shocked by the villagers’ responses about AIDS. It seemed they had little understanding of the disease. Some believed AIDS could spread through the air, others thought it could result from having more than five sexual partners a day, and some thought it could be easily treated with medication. None of them were aware that AIDS could spread through shared razors or needles. When asked if any other NGOs had educated them about AIDS, none said yes, indicating they had not been informed by anyone with accurate knowledge. India has a high number of AIDS cases, and the rate is increasing rapidly due to changing sexual practices as the economy grows.

The rise in sexually transmitted diseases (STDs) is likely to continue. The government needs to take action to prevent this issue from escalating further. Given that Indians are generally open to new ideas and the use of condoms has not been a major issue, we can control the spread of this disease with proper education. Lane compiled the survey results into a report, which was published on Sanjeevni Booti’s website.