Author Archives: nandan

Interview with Arun Pathak

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The Politician Who Protests with His Life

Arun Pathak is a politician and social worker from Varanasi, known worldwide for his extreme style of protest—even resorting to suicide attempts. His protest against the film Water in the year 2000 brought him global attention. I’d heard about him for years, had seen him in my neighborhood, and had read about him in newspapers and magazines countless times. But I finally had the chance to meet him last year while working with Irene, a researcher from Italy.

Mr. Pathak addressing a public meeting

When Irene asked me to arrange a meeting with Mr. Pathak, I wasn’t sure I could do it. Arun Pathak had become a very powerful politician, and I thought he would be like any other Indian politician who doesn’t have time for people after elections. My impression of him, however, was completely wrong. I was able to arrange the meeting, and I was genuinely surprised by how helpful and welcoming he was. Irene and I interviewed him at least 20 times over two months, and he was always so gracious. He treated us very well and answered all our questions. I learned a great deal about him during those interviews.

Mr. Pathak with his security guards

I was truly surprised to hear his stories about his politics, protest style, and struggles. Mr. Pathak’s family was very poor. His father worked as a storekeeper at Jain Dharamshala in Varanasi, and Pathak said they often didn’t have enough money for two meals a day, going to bed on an empty stomach many times. He had to stop his studies and was sent to his uncle’s house in the village because his family couldn’t afford to send him to school.

Mr. Pathak at a meeting

He returned to Varanasi after only a few months because his uncle wasn’t nice to him either. Pathak finally enrolled in a municipal school, which were free but often considered a waste of time. When he was just 14, he went to a local shop and asked for a job because he wanted to earn some money to help his family. The shopkeeper laughed at him, saying he couldn’t employ a 14-year-old student. Arun Pathak explained that he only wanted a part-time job in the evenings.

Honored by Sankaracharya

After much pleading, the shopkeeper agreed to hire him. Pathak worked for one month, and when he received his first salary of only 30 rupees, he was so happy to share it with his family. But as he was walking home, a few bullies stopped him and took his money, forcing him to buy them alcohol. After drinking, they all went together and beat up his family. Mr. Pathak says his family was beaten because they couldn’t pay their apartment rent on time.

Mr. Pathak in 2002

At that time, a political party called Shiv Sena was very popular in India for its work with the youth. Shiv Sena has always been known as a right wing Hindu party. There was a rumor then that Shiv Sena was giving a pistol to all new members, and after hearing this, Mr. Pathak decided to join so he could get a pistol to kill the people who had beaten his family. Since it was just a rumor, he never received a pistol. But Mr. Pathak proudly says he found nuclear bombs instead of pistols in Shiv Sena.

Arrest

When he talks about nuclear bombs, he’s referring to the hardcore people of Shiv Sena. He says he had always been a leader, even in school, and after joining Shiv Sena, he once again became popular due to his leadership qualities. Many people in his party became his fans, ready to die or kill for him. He organized numerous programs under the banner of Shiv Sena and became very popular. After 11 years of hard work, he became the district chief of Shiv Sena in 2000.

Mr. Pathak’s priests

His protests were always massive and a topic of conversation in society. His protests against the films Water, Girlfriend, and Chori-Chori Chupke-Chupke were talked about all over the world. Shiv Sena has always protested against Valentine’s Day celebrations in India, and he also organized huge protests against the festival in Varanasi. His protests against liquor stores, corruption, and several other issues also gained immense popularity. Soon, Mr. Pathak became a major name throughout India.

Hunger strike

Mr. Pathak has always been known for his extreme methods. He has consumed poison five times to protest. Once, he cut the veins in his right hand after being stopped from entering a temple. When I asked him why he did such things, he laughed and said, “Nobody listens to the poor. If you are poor and powerless, this is what you do to make people listen to you.” He proudly says that he is the inventor of staging suicide as a form of protest.

I had read many articles claiming the substance he consumed wasn’t actually poison. When I asked Mr. Pathak about it, he showed me his palm, which sweats all the time. He said his body developed this problem after he first consumed poison. He showed me his medical prescription, which states he can’t eat heavy or spicy food and must drink filtered water—all due to the effects of the poison he consumed so many times.

Distributing books in Mumbai

He says it wasn’t just him; others also consumed poison or tried to burn themselves at his request for a protest. After saying this, he called over one of his workers named Bulli. Bulli is 29 years old and consumed poison when he was only 14, to protest against the film Chor-Chori Chupke-Chupke. I asked Bulli several times when I met him alone why he did it, and each time his answer was the same: he did not know. He always says, “Mr. Pathak asked me to, so I did it.” I asked him if he regretted it, and he replied, “Why would I regret it? It was Bhaiya’s (brother’s) order. He knows what’s best for me.”

at a school

I was shocked to hear this. How can one person have such control over another? The bigger shock is people’s unwavering belief in Mr. Pathak. He worked with Shiv Sena until 2003 and then left because he was unhappy with how the party was discriminating against certain communities. Shiv Sena was beating up and kicking North Indians out of Maharashtra, a situation that deeply hurt Mr. Pathak, and he decided to leave the party. He formed his own political party and ran it for four years. Finally, in 2007, he realized he needed a bigger platform to raise his voice and fight against major evils. He joined the Bahujan Samaj Party, which is known for working with lower-caste communities and fighting against corruption.

Attack

Again, due to his leadership qualities, he was appointed as a co-coordinator for two state assembly seats in Varanasi. During his tenure, he made the Bahujan Samaj Party very popular in Varanasi, where it had previously had no presence. For the past year, he has been somewhat away from politics, devoting his time entirely to social service and religion. He says he’s conducting research on the outcomes of religious practices. To do this, he has hired 11 priests who perform Vedic yagyas (rituals) every day.

distributing books to poor students

These yagyas and other rituals have been going on continuously since October 2010. He says he wants to reveal the truth to society. If there is no outcome from such practices, people should not waste their time. But if performing rituals truly works, they should be done correctly. He believes that rituals don’t seem helpful nowadays because they were created thousands of years ago and need to be changed to fit the times, and he wants to discover what that change should be.

offering food to poor

I have been to Mr. Pathak’s place several times, and every time, I see people coming to him for help. He makes some kind of donation almost every day. I’ve seen him offer food to people with leprosy, the blind, or the physically challenged. I’ve seen him pay school fees for poor students or buy them books. I’ve seen him pay for poor people’s weddings. I think he makes every possible kind of donation. He never wears a new piece of clothing until he has donated the same item to a few poor people. I still remember when he bought 12 tracksuits: 11 were donated to beggars on the street first, and only then did he wear one.

offering food to blinds

I have seen people following him everywhere; I’m sure he has thousands of fans in Varanasi alone. He’s like a star in Varanasi, always surrounded by a minimum of six security guards. He says there’s a threat to his life because so many people don’t like his popularity, so he needs security guards with him all the time. After saying this, he paused for a moment and said, “Can you imagine? I started working at the age of 14 because of my poor family background. My first salary was only 30 rupees, and now I have to spend a good amount of money just on my security.”

offering food to lepers

It is definitely a huge change for anyone, and Mr. Pathak certainly deserves it. I have now met Mr. Pathak several times, and I like him a lot. I admire his work style, his dedication, his understanding of society, and his incredibly helpful nature. I am sure I have become his fan and would love to see him progress in his life. I personally believe he is a thousand times better leader and politician than anyone I have ever met. Our society definitely needs people like him.

Union Carbide Gas Disaster, Bhopal

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Union Carbide Gas Disaster

I recently visited Bhopal with my friend to explore the city and meet the NGOs still working on the Bhopal Gas Disaster that shook India in 1984. Before going, I had no idea about which organizations were active there, so I called my friend Nandlal Master from Lok Samiti in Varanasi. Nandlal is a well-known social activist, and he suggested I visit the Chingari Trust. He knew about it because the Trust awards women fighting against exploitative corporations, and five women from his own NGO in Varanasi had once been recognized by them. I assumed there would be several NGOs still working on the issue in Bhopal, but to my surprise, I learned that Chingari Trust was practically the only one consistently helping survivors on a large scale.

union carbide gas disaster

First Impressions

When I called, the Chingari Trust staff were warm and welcoming. They invited me to visit their office and rehabilitation center near the affected area. Initially, I expected a small office with a few staff members. But as soon as I entered, I was shocked—there were dozens of families, many of them with children born with physical and neurological disabilities caused by the gas tragedy and its after-effects. I saw nearly a hundred children, ranging from infants to teenagers, participating in physical therapy and rehabilitation programs. It was heartbreaking. Until then, I had assumed that only people directly exposed during the 1984 disaster were affected, but I discovered that children are still being born with disabilities due to lingering chemical contamination.

wall paintings around factory are

The Work of Chingari Trust

The work being done at Chingari Trust left a deep impression on me. The organization was founded by Rashida Bee and Champadevi Shukla, two women who themselves suffered from the gas tragedy. Rashida Bee even received a major international award of around Rs. 50 lakhs in San Francisco for her activism, and instead of keeping the money, she used it to establish Chingari Trust and donated the rest back to the cause. Their center provides physiotherapy, speech therapy, occupational therapy, and counseling to affected children free of cost. Despite their efforts, Rashida Bee told me they are struggling to meet the overwhelming demand and are now working on building a new hospital dedicated to survivors and their children.

families with the affected kids

Contaminated Water – The Ongoing Disaster

Later, I spoke to the IT coordinator at the Trust, who gave me a tour of the surrounding area. He explained that the tragedy didn’t end in 1984. The factory site continues to leak harmful chemicals into the groundwater, which thousands of nearby families still rely on. This contaminated water is directly linked to ongoing health problems and birth defects in the community. When we walked only ten minutes from the Trust’s office, I was shocked again. Families were living right across the road from the abandoned Union Carbide factory, now owned by Dow Chemicals. It looked like any other crowded Indian neighborhood, but beneath the surface, people were living with poisoned soil and water.

newpaper cuttings

Questions Without Answers

My American friend Lane, who was with me, pointed out that in the United States, factories dealing with such dangerous chemicals are usually built far from populated areas. It made me wonder: why did our government allow this factory to operate in the middle of a city in the first place? And even after the disaster, why didn’t they relocate residents to safer areas? It is impossible to avoid the conclusion that both Union Carbide (and now Dow Chemicals) and sections of the Indian government are equally responsible for the ongoing suffering. The politics and corporate influence behind this tragedy are undeniable, but the fact remains: thousands of innocent lives were destroyed and continue to be endangered. Accountability has been delayed for far too long.

Final Thoughts

My visit to Chingari Trust completely changed the way I understood the Bhopal Gas Disaster. This was not just an accident of the past; it is a living tragedy that still haunts the people of Bhopal every single day. Meeting Rashida Bee and seeing the resilience of affected families was deeply moving. The story of Bhopal is not only about corporate negligence, but also about government apathy. Until justice is served and proper rehabilitation is provided, the victims of Bhopal will continue to remind us of how dangerous unchecked industrial greed and weak governance can be.

really sad

he wsa trying to say something to me

Shivratri in Varanasi

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Girls playing Goddesses

Shivratri is the wedding anniversary of Lord Shiva and the biggest festival in Varanasi. This year, it was celebrated on the 30th of March. The date is determined by the Hindu lunar calendar, so it changes every year. As per the calendar, Mahashivaratri falls on the fourteenth day of the dark fortnight of Phalguna (February/March). I had always wanted to document this festival, and this year I finally got the opportunity. Several temples in Varanasi organize a wedding parade of Lord Shiva on Shivratri. I went to a very big temple called Mahamrityunjay Temple, which is famous for its parade.

Girls playing Goddesses

The ghosts

I tried to contact the mahant of the temple, who was supposed to be one of the organizers, or at least an important member of the committee. But to my surprise, he told me straight away that he didn’t know anything about who was organizing it. I was shocked. I then asked several other people at the temple, but nobody seemed willing to say who was behind the event or who I should approach to get filming permission. Very strange people. I spoke with at least 20 people, and the response was always the same—they didn’t know who was organizing the parade.

The ghosts

Goddess Shitla

Finally, I gave up on this temple and went to another one called Tilbhandeshwar Temple, which is also one of the biggest Shiva temples in Varanasi. The people there were much more helpful. They gave me all the information I needed and permitted me to come on the festival day and film inside the temple. I was really happy to have their permission. I arrived on the festival day around 8 am and was surprised to see that preparations had already been underway for a long time. Hundreds of people were at the temple, dressing up and getting ready for the parade.

Goddess Shitla

Baby Shiva

Since the festival is so important to the people of Varanasi, everyone wanted to participate. A committee was formed to choose the right characters for the parade. There were all kinds of characters, including gods, goddesses, demons, and ghosts. This was because Shiva is believed to have all kinds of followers—even ghosts and demons—who also took part in his wedding. The atmosphere was truly amazing, full of excitement and energy.

baby Shiva

Makeup

There were four makeup artists working non-stop on the characters, and there was always a line of people waiting for their turn. My friend Lane, from Seattle, had come with me just to watch the parade but ended up playing Parshuram! The organizers were so delighted to see a foreigner that they asked him if he’d like to be part of the parade, and as usual, Lane agreed. I interviewed several characters, and the best conversation was with the man playing Lord Shiva. He was fascinating. He told me he had been playing Shiva for the past eight years. When I asked why it was always him, he explained that he takes the role very seriously and calls Lord Shiva into his body, which earns him respect from the community. People actually want him to play Shiva year after year.

makeup

Lord Shiva on his horse

Even more interesting was the fact that his whole family was involved. His real son was playing baby Shiva. After his makeup was done, the man playing Lord Shiva went to the temple for blessings. This is the moment when he is believed to invite the spirit of Shiva into his body. The parade began right after this. All the characters rode on different animals and horses as the procession moved through many neighborhoods. I don’t know how, but thousands of people joined the parade. There was loud music, people dancing, snake charmers performing, and firecrackers going off everywhere to celebrate.

Lord Shiva on his horse

Free bhang

There were also free bhang stalls. Since bhang is traditionally offered at Shiva temples, it was distributed as a blessing. The parade lasted more than four hours before finally returning to the Tilbhandeshwar Temple around 6 PM. Once back at the temple, the man playing Shiva performed a symbolic wedding ceremony with his real wife, representing the marriage of Shiva and Parvati. After the rituals, the event concluded. It was incredible to see how people treated the characters as if they were the deities themselves. Many touched their feet in reverence. I was thrilled to have documented the whole event—and yes, I filmed it too! So happy to have experienced it.

free Bhang

 

work with VPRO

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Working with VPRO – A Dutch Broadcasting Experience in Varanasi

I had the opportunity to work with VPRO, a broadcasting corporation from the Netherlands, on a travel show designed for children between the ages of eight and fourteen. My responsibility was to arrange everything for them – hotels, transportation, local assistants, and most importantly, finding the right characters for the show. They shared with me only a general idea of the kinds of characters they were looking for, and it was my job to research, approach families, and schedule interviews. A month before filming, an employee of VPRO named Barbara Smith visited me in Varanasi to prepare. Since this was a children’s show, they were specifically looking for children with unique backgrounds and stories.

When I asked why they chose Varanasi, Barbara explained that they were fascinated by its cultural diversity and believed that they could capture the essence of India just within this city. I completely agreed — Varanasi is a place where India’s traditions, diversity, and everyday life all intersect.

The Search for Characters

Finding the right characters was more challenging than I expected. Initially, I thought it would be easy, but once I started meeting children and families, I realized they were suspicious and hesitant about appearing on a foreign TV show. Still, after some effort, we managed to identify fascinating children:

  • A boy who practiced Malkhamb (traditional pole gymnastics)

  • A glamorous Bollywood-style girl from a wealthy family with dreams of becoming an actress or model

  • A bright girl from a poor family studying at an NGO school

  • A young couple, representing teenage relationships

Beyond this list, I also looked out for other interesting local characters. While walking on the ghats, I met a young snake charmer. The crew loved the idea, so he also became part of the show.

The NGO Dilemma

Barbara already knew about an NGO called Saraswati Education Center, a yoga school that claimed to run educational programs for underprivileged children. She asked me to take her there to plan filming. At first, the place looked promising, and its owner, Sumit, appeared genuine. But Barbara insisted on making a surprise visit, and what we discovered shocked us — the claims of dozens of children studying there turned out to be false. We found only four or five children, mostly playing with foreigners, not learning.

Barbara was disappointed and decided to cancel their involvement. Luckily, I had already introduced her to Dora and Attila, founders of Chance India, another NGO I was working with at the time. Their program was authentic, and Barbara quickly chose a girl from Chance India to feature in the show. The most difficult character to find was the Bollywood dancer girl, as most families refused permission for their daughters to perform on television. Fortunately, I found a wonderful girl whose supportive parents agreed to let her participate.

Filming the Show

The film crew arrived a month later. At the last moment, they decided to drop the Malkhamb boy, saying it wasn’t “traditional enough.” Instead, they wanted a child who practiced wrestling at an Akhada, which was easy to arrange at one located near Assi. I also gave the crew walking tours of Varanasi, introducing them to the city’s vibrant life — the ghats, sadhus, cows, street scenes, and everyday chaos. We filmed for five days, capturing so much material that the team said they had enough content to make two episodes instead of one. That was the best compliment I could have received, and it made me very happy.

Wrapping Up

After finishing the project, we celebrated with a farewell party at the Radisson Hotel in Varanasi. Just before leaving India, the crew received an urgent call from their producer in the Netherlands. A commercial they had filmed in Rajasthan was rejected, and they had to reshoot with a rural Indian girl immediately. They asked me for help. Luckily, I managed to arrange it on the way to the airport the next morning — a perfect last-minute solution. The show was scheduled to air in February 2012, and I couldn’t wait to see it on television. Working with VPRO was not just another assignment, but a wonderful experience that combined cultural exchange, problem-solving, and unforgettable teamwork.

Crew members and I at the party after finishing the project

Bhopal

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The City

I visited Bhopal for the first time with a friend, and I really loved the place, especially the way Madhya Pradesh Tourism Department has organized tourism in the state. There was a small issue with the hotel booking, but it was fine in the end. We stayed at Ranjeet Hotel near the railway station. The hotel was nice for the amount I paid, but when I had tried to book it over the phone from Varanasi, they told me there were no rooms available. We reached Bhopal around 10:30 PM without any booking, but since we already knew about Ranjeet Hotel, we decided to take a chance and show up there. Surprisingly, even though they had told me earlier that no rooms were available, they still gave us one. Strange, but definitely good for us.

the city

Bada Lake

We had one important purpose in Bhopal, which was to visit Chingari Trust to learn about their work. We managed to do that the very next day after arriving. With plenty of time left, we decided to explore the city. On the suggestion of the people working at Chingari Trust, we went to see the two famous lakes of Bhopal: Bada Talab and Chhota Talab. Both were wonderful, clean, and offered several options for water sports. Chhota Talab is separated from Bada Talab by an over-bridge. We didn’t try any sports but enjoyed walking around and soaking in the calm atmosphere.

wetland for birds and crocodiles

Beautiful Kids at the Mosque

After visiting the lakes, we took an auto rickshaw back to the hotel. On the way, I asked the driver if there was any other interesting place nearby. He suggested the Darul Uloom Taj-ul-Masjid. I had already read about this mosque and wanted to see it, so we decided to visit before returning to the hotel. It turned out to be one of the best experiences in Bhopal. The mosque was grand and beautiful, and it is considered one of the largest mosques in Asia. Unlike many mosques in India, this one allows women, non-Muslims, and foreigners to enter, which I found very welcoming.

beautiful kids at the mosque

Meeting a Student

Inside the mosque, there is an Islamic school. I met a very nice student who showed me around. He shared his life story and even took me to his room. He told me that he had studied up to Class 12 in a regular school, but afterward, he chose to dedicate himself to Islamic studies. He showed me his books, but when I wanted to touch his Quran, he politely stopped me. He explained that since the Quran is the holiest book for Muslims, there is a specific process of purification required before touching it. I was really impressed by his respect for his faith.

We spoke for nearly two hours about many things, including politics and Hindu-Muslim relations. He told me that Islam strictly prohibits creating tensions between communities, so anyone who does it is not a true Muslim, no matter what they claim. I had heard this before, but it was refreshing to meet a young person who truly believed in it. For me, such people represent the real development of India. We exchanged contact information, and I hope to meet him again whenever I return to Bhopal.

Van Vihar National Park

The next day, we visited a small national park called Van Vihar, located near Bada Talab. It was a peaceful and well-maintained place. They had bicycles for rent, battery-operated vehicles, and of course, walking paths. The park was quiet and clean, with a wide variety of animals such as lions, tigers, leopards, deer, bears, hyenas, crocodiles, and monkeys. The animals seemed to be kept in good condition. The park stretches for about seven kilometers from one end to the other. Plastic bags were banned, and it was a no-horn zone, so it felt very different from the usual chaos of Indian cities. At the far end, there was a cafeteria serving snacks. We rented bicycles, explored the park, and really enjoyed the calm environment.

awesome place

One interesting thing I noticed was the urinal system. They had arranged a separate design for Muslims, since they squat while urinating. It was set up lower to the ground to allow this posture. Despite traveling across India, visiting Muslim friends’ homes, and experiencing many things, I had never seen anything like this before. Bhopal has a large Muslim population, which probably explains the arrangement.

look at the right side ones

More Sites Nearby

Later, we visited Bhimbetka, famous for its ancient cave paintings, and on the way back, we stopped at the Bhojpur Shiva Temple. The next day, we explored Sanchi, known for its Buddhist stupas. All of these places were fascinating, and I thoroughly enjoyed Madhya Pradesh. The weather was pleasant, the city was green and quiet, the sites were clean, and I never encountered touts.

Honestly, my home state has far better tourism potential than Madhya Pradesh, but because of politics and government negligence, tourism here is rarely given priority. If things continue this way, Madhya Pradesh will soon surpass Uttar Pradesh as a leading tourism destination. Visiting Bhopal and its surroundings was a truly memorable experience.

Mumbai Gay Pride 2011

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Mumbai – The Place of the Most Happening Gay Events in India

Mumbai, known for hosting some of the most happening gay events in India, held its annual pride march on the 29th of January, and I went to attend it. The parade was organized by the Humsafar Trust, the biggest organization working on LGBT rights in Maharashtra. In earlier years, the pride march was held on the 16th of August, but this year the date was changed because of the hot and humid weather conditions in Mumbai during that month. The earlier date carried symbolic value as it came right after Independence Day. The idea was that although India got its independence on the 15th of August 1947, the gay community in India had yet to achieve its own independence, so pride was celebrated the very next day.

the parade

Celina Jaitely at the Parade

I had already attended the Mumbai pride parade in 2009, so I felt it was a good decision to change the date this year. The parade began at Azad Maidan, the same starting point as last year, and ended at Girgaum Chowpatty, a walk of around 5–6 kilometers. By the time I arrived at Azad Maidan, a few hundred people had already gathered and speeches were going on. Soon after, Bollywood actress Celina Jaitely arrived, which brought extra energy to the participants.

Celina has always supported LGBT issues and has been associated with many NGOs working in this field. She once even admitted that her ex-boyfriend was homosexual. She is one of the most recognized celebrities standing up for LGBT rights in India, and I have seen her in several interviews talking about equal rights. I had also seen her in the 2009 parade. It is always inspiring when celebrities join such events and support the cause.

Celina Jaitely at the parade

Azaad Bazaar

After speeches from Celina and other activists, the parade finally started. One new thing this year was that Humsafar Trust had opened India’s first LGBT-friendly store in Mumbai called Azaad Bazaar, meaning “Independent Market” in Hindi. They promoted it during the parade. I really liked the idea of having a dedicated place for the LGBT community. In India, LGBT people face huge discrimination and are often mocked. They don’t always feel comfortable in public spaces. Stores like Azaad Bazaar can give them a place to shop freely and meet others. In fact, such places are not only useful but also create visibility and conversation in society. I strongly believe that open communication can solve a lot of problems, and initiatives like this encourage exactly that.

Happy Ending of the Parade

The Parade

The parade began with around 1500 people, but soon the number grew to between 2500 and 3000. The streets were filled with participants dancing, cheering, and celebrating. There were people from different parts of India and even foreign countries. This year’s pride was a beautiful mix of modern and traditional culture. While some participants were dressed in very modern outfits, others wore traditional clothing, performed folk dances, and sang traditional songs. I had once asked an officer at Humsafar Trust why so many people dressed traditionally, and he explained that it was intentional.

society

They wanted Mumbai pride not to become completely Western, and it’s always easier for society to accept change when it is rooted in local culture. Since India has one of the oldest histories of same-sex love in the world, blending tradition with pride makes perfect sense. I loved this idea. I also noticed fewer people wearing masks this year, which clearly showed that the LGBT community in Mumbai is becoming more open and confident in fighting for their rights.

rainbow flag at the parade

Laxmi Narayan Tripathi and Manvendra Singh Gohil

The famous Hijra activist Laxmi Narayan Tripathi also joined the parade. I have met and interviewed her before and truly admire her work. I believe she is one of the most well-known Hijra activists not just in India but globally. Another familiar face I noticed was Manvendra Singh Gohil, who belongs to a royal family in Gujarat and is one of the very few openly gay royals in the world. I had seen him in the 2009 parade as well. After coming out, he faced tension within his family but chose to dedicate himself to LGBT activism, starting in Gujarat and later across India. He has even announced plans to adopt a child. Seeing someone from a royal family openly advocating for LGBT rights is powerful because royal families hold social influence, and their acceptance often inspires broader social acceptance.

Laxmi Narayan Tripathi

Support from Families

Another positive change I saw this year was family support. Some participants carried placards saying things like “I am proud of my gay son,” “Proud of my gay grandson,” or “Proud of my gay brother.” Although these families may be very few in number, the fact that more and more relatives are standing beside their loved ones is a clear sign of change.

The parade ended at Girgaum Chowpatty with speeches by social activists demanding equal rights, including the legalization of same-sex marriage. While consensual gay sex has already been decriminalized in India, marriage equality and other rights are still not recognized. Personally, I feel legal changes may take time, but social attitudes are even slower to change. I have not yet seen much difference in everyday conversations about the LGBT community among people in India.

family

Reflections

The good thing, however, is that people have started talking about it more openly. I see more openly gay couples in society now, which is a clear sign of progress. At the same time, I think members of the LGBT community also need to be mindful of social norms. For example, during the parade, I saw a couple of participants lowering their pants and exposing themselves. Some were kissing openly on the road. I personally don’t oppose kissing, but since public displays of affection are generally uncommon in India, doing so only makes acceptance harder. For the LGBT community to become a more accepted part of mainstream society, they also need to reflect mainstream behavior while pushing for change. After all, human feelings are the same, whether one is gay or straight, but respecting social context is important.

great

Closing Thoughts

Overall, attending the parade was a wonderful experience. I learned more about the community and saw both challenges and progress. I plan to attend the parade again next year, hopefully with a better camera so I can capture more videos and interviews.

Happy Ending of the Parade

Osho ashram Pune

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I visited Pune with some friends for just a few hours, but those few hours were enough to give me a taste of the city. On the surface, it felt like any other metropolitan Indian city, but there was definitely something special about Pune. We first visited the area where all the IT companies are located, and that visit was simply amazing. I saw offices of almost every big IT company I had ever heard of (Infosys, Wipro, TCS and many more). The architecture stood out as well. The buildings had unusual shapes, but they looked modern and impressive. I am sure the best IT techniques and futuristic designs were used to create them.

Everywhere in the city there was construction going on. Huge glass-windowed buildings lined the streets, and traffic was heavy, just like in any other big Indian city. After exploring the IT hub, we decided to visit the famous Osho Ashram in Pune. And that experience was… quite surprising. When I hear the word ashram, I imagine a simple, peaceful place dedicated to spirituality and meditation. But Osho Ashram felt more like a five-star resort, filled with wealthy visitors from around the world. At the entrance, there was even a reception counter, where I saw one Indian and one foreigner speaking in English. That was my first shock.

When we asked about how to enter, they handed us a pamphlet explaining the rules. The entry fee was ₹850 per day, just to visit the ashram. On top of that, they required every visitor to have an HIV test. If someone did not already have the test results, they could get tested right there before entering. I could not imagine why an HIV test would be necessary to enter an ashram. Later, I learned that Osho had very different ideas about sex and was very serious about issues like HIV and AIDS.

Even then, I did not fully understand what kind of approach required mandatory HIV testing just to enter. But some locals explained that it was fairly common to find sexual partners inside the ashram, which made the rule more clear. In that case, I guess it was a smart precaution, though definitely unusual for something called an “ashram.” This five-star ashram also offers accommodation at ₹5,000 per night. For that amount, one could easily stay at a luxurious hotel in India. But then again, a five-star ashram seems to deserve five-star prices.

Overall, I really enjoyed learning about the ashram and its unique setup. Maybe someday, when I have enough money, I will stay there myself and experience what it is like to live in a true five-star ashram. 🙂

work with DePauw university

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My Work with DePauw University, Indiana (USA)

I had the opportunity to work with DePauw University from Indiana, USA, when Mr. Rajai Bimbo, the Assistant Director of the Department of Civic, Global, and Professional Opportunities, contacted me regarding his students’ one-week trip to Varanasi. He reached out because of my work with the LGBT community in India and also showed interest in learning about the NGOs active in Varanasi.

Although Banaras Hindu University (BHU) was officially their host institution, the team was not satisfied with the way BHU professors and a local contact, Mr. Ramuji, were handling communication. They often failed to respond on time, and at one point Mr. Bimbo even asked me what I could offer to the students for a week-long program. This clearly showed that they had considered trusting me with the entire program. However, since BHU and Ramuji were “big names,” I eventually didn’t receive the full responsibility.

Mr. Bimbo even told me that he had requested BHU professors and Ramuji to collaborate with me so that we could jointly deliver the program, but they declined. Their response was that my work was “good, but not good enough” to be part of their official arrangement. Despite this, Mr. Bimbo made sure I was involved in some capacity. He invited me to spend time with the students, especially to talk about LGBT rights in India and activism in Varanasi.

With only a few hours to prepare, I put together a meaningful program for them. I organized a visit to Lok Samiti in Mehdiganj, arranged an interview with Mr. Nandlal Master, and guided the students through a local Indian village. They also visited a Coca-Cola–affected site where they learned about the community’s struggle against the company. At the MNREGA site, where a canal was being dug, students interacted with farmers and laborers, which they found deeply engaging.

Working with students has always been my priority, and it remains my dream to organize university-level experiential programs in my city. Unfortunately, due to local politics and monopoly in this field, I wasn’t given the larger responsibility with DePauw. The activities I offered were far more enriching than what BHU and Ramuji provided, but because of institutional politics, the students missed out on experiencing the best of what Varanasi had to offer.

Still, I take pride in the fact that both Mr. Bimbo and the students were happy with my contribution. For me, that was the biggest achievement.

Hotel Haifa in Varanasi

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Hotel Haifa Incident

Hotel Haifa is located near Assi Ghat in Varanasi. They are recommended on several online travel forums and have a good reputation in the market, which is why they are usually full. I also used to recommend this hotel, but I was unaware of their strange business policy – they do not allow tourist guides inside. This came to light when an American university student group, staying at Hotel Haifa, invited me to meet them. We were sitting in the hotel’s restaurant, talking, when the owner, Mr. Ravi Mishra, suddenly appeared to introduce himself to the group.

After a brief conversation with them, he turned to me and asked how I had come there. I explained that the group had invited me because they wanted to talk with me. Hearing this, he became upset and told me clearly: “Listen, I want to make this clear to you – I do not allow guides and outsiders to enter my hotel.” I was shocked. He repeated that tourist guides are not allowed to meet clients inside his hotel and asked me not to come again. After speaking with me, he told the same thing to the group in front of me. They all looked at me with surprised faces and later apologized for what had happened.

This was the first time in my life that someone had insulted me so directly. I felt both shocked and guilty, and we ended the meeting immediately. Later, I spoke to a few people who had previously stayed at Hotel Haifa, and one of them told me: “The restaurant staff was eager to please, but I felt slightly intimidated by the management’s attitude. They promote their own guides, money-changing, and travel agent services, which explains their behavior with you. As an American traveling alone, I liked having one trusted person I could count on, but they seem to want to be the guest’s only resource, or push their own network of touts.”

Hearing this made things clearer. It seems the hotel does not want locals or independent guides to interact with their guests, possibly to keep control over all services and ensure the clients depend only on them. But to me, this feels unfair and deeply problematic. I could not help but compare it to the signs from British colonial times that read “Dogs and Indians not allowed.” That was the early 1900s, yet here in the 21st century, in an independent India with its own government, I experienced something that felt very similar.

Do you really think such a hotel deserves support? Personally, I will no longer recommend Hotel Haifa, and I have decided not to work with anyone who chooses to stay there

beggars in India

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I worked with an anthropology student named Sophia from University of Berlin. I had already worked with her before a few years ago and it was my second time of work with her. This time she was not working for her university but for a big private publication company in Germany. She just wanted to interview different kind of people and listen to their stories. We met several different kinds of people but most striking news came out of the beggar community living in Varanasi. I had a shop few years ago near to Dashashwamedh Ghat in Varanasi and I knew that there was a group of beggars living near to Dashashwamedh Ghat so I took Sophia there.

I had already heard some crazy stories about beggars living there but had no idea how serious the condition was. They told us so many things but the worse story was about their sexual harassment by local people. We interviewed an old woman who told us that she was raped several times by a local bully who comes to them every night and rapes whoever he wants. There were several girls and all aged women living there and many of them said that this person rapes really young girls who are just 14-15 years old.

They went to the police several times but the police never entertains their complaint only because they are poor and they don’t have any connection in politics. A chai shop keeper who had a shop near to the place where this community lives also said confirmed it. When I asked him why locals don’t take any action against this person, he said that he is a big criminal and nobody can do anything, not even police. He also said that he comes almost every night, chooses any girl or woman he wants and take them away with himself. He doesn’t even take the girls at his home but he rapes just somewhere on the road.

I was shocked to hear all these things happening openly in my society. I just did not know what to do with poor beggars. They also talked about corruption in government policies for them. They said that Government of Uttar Pradesh also has a program for rehabilitation of beggars in Uttar Pradesh but there is so much corruption involved in it and beggars are not benefited by it at all. They talked about a housing program where government is providing free housing to the beggars but government officers ask for bribe in order to provide them a house which is built for them and which is supposed to be free of cost.

They said that government is asking for a lot of documents including local residential proof which sounds hilarious to me. How come a beggar can have a residential proof? They live on the road! This idea of asking for residential proof and other documents seemed really stupid to me. I was thinking about these corrupt government officers who don’t forgive even the beggars. They are begging from the beggars which means that they are bigger beggars. There is a saying in Hindi चोर के घर चोरी Chor ke ghar chori (stealing in thieves home) and now we need to start another saying- भिखमंगा से भिखमंगई Bhikhmanga se Bhikhmangai (begging from beggars).