Author Archives: nandan

Udo from Germany learns some Hindi

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I have been hosting a German student named Udo, who is 58 years old and eager to learn Hindi in Varanasi. Uncle Udo reached out to me about a month ago after finding my email address through my Hospitality Club profile. He used to be a professor of German and has worked at various universities in England, Germany, and Japan. Currently, he owns a language school in Munich but does not teach there. Instead, he assesses unemployed individuals for government assistance.

When I asked Uncle Udo why he wanted to learn Hindi at his age, he shared an interesting story. A few years ago, a friend had given him a Hindi grammar book as a birthday gift, which he had never looked at. While cleaning his cupboard a couple of years back, he rediscovered the book and decided it was time to learn Hindi. He believes that starting something new is a great way to keep the mind active in old age, and I found this idea quite inspiring. Uncle Udo had already been studying Hindi online for three years and was familiar with the sounds and grammar.

When Udo asked me about Hindi classes in Varanasi, I recommended Professor Virendra Singh. At that time, Mr. Singh was not in Varanasi but was expected to return by the first week of October. I advised Udo to continue researching alternative Hindi teachers in case Mr. Singh did not return on time. Udo mentioned Mr. Binit Mishra, whom he found online, and who was reportedly located near my home, though I had never heard of him.

Udo arrived at my home on October 6th. On his first day, we went to meet Virendra Singh, who had indeed returned to Varanasi and resumed teaching. Mr. Singh agreed to teach Udo for one hour each day, which delighted him. Given Udo’s background as a professor, he wanted a qualified instructor, which was why he had not considered other schools in Varanasi.

Since starting his lessons with Mr. Singh, Udo has been very pleased with the instruction he’s received. He regards Mr. Singh as the best Hindi professor he has ever met. Although his Hindi is not perfect, he has made significant progress and his proficiency is far beyond what most people achieve after just two weeks of classes. Udo plans to visit Khajuraho and Gwalior before leaving India in ten days. He hopes to return to Varanasi next year to continue his Hindi studies and to experience festivals like Shivratri and Holi.

Guide Association forbids new guides

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There is a new issue with the tour guide training program that was scheduled to start on October 6th. The Guide Association of Jaipur has sued the government, arguing that the training program should be extended to four months, as it was for previous guides. They are unhappy with the new structure, which includes 45 days of classes, a 15-day orientation tour, and the submission of an assignment report. They believe the program should be the same as it was before, with continuous classes for four months.

Although the current program is designed to last for four months in total, the changes from the previous format have led to dissatisfaction among the old guides. They are concerned that the new structure, which includes additional requirements, will affect their established routines. The court has now ordered the government to halt the training program until further notice.

I believe the revised program is actually an improvement over the previous one. However, it seems that the old guides are resistant to change, possibly because they fear competition from newer entrants into the industry. Despite the shortage of professional tour guides in India and the upcoming Commonwealth Games in 2010, these seasoned guides appear to be delaying the program to protect their positions. I’ve observed some guides who, rather than actively engaging with clients, have been inattentive or relied on escorts to interact with clients.

The current training program is crucial preparation for the Commonwealth Games, and with limited time available, I hope the government will address these issues promptly. Once the situation is resolved, the old guides will need to enhance their skills, or they may face being sidelined as the industry evolves.

Terrorism in India

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Yesterday was the last day of Durga Puja, and I went out with my friends to visit the Durga pandals, as we have been doing for the past decade. We typically leave home around 9 PM and spend the whole night traveling to different pandals, returning by morning. The traffic is usually heavy due to the large number of people attending, and we normally park our bikes and walk from one pandal to another.

This year, however, I was taken aback by the turnout. Only about ten percent of the usual crowd attended, a stark contrast to the vibrant celebrations of previous years. The streets, which are normally congested, were relatively empty, making it easy to ride our bikes. My friends and I were prepared for the usual foot traffic, but there was no need to walk extensively. I believe the reduced attendance was due to the recent bomb blasts in various cities and the ongoing reports about terrorism in Varanasi.

It felt disheartening to see that fear seemed to have overshadowed the festive spirit. I recall the aftermath of the bomb blast at Sankat Mochan temple, where over a hundred people died. Despite the tragedy, the community quickly returned to normal, expressing their resolve to combat terrorism with support from the authorities. However, this year’s low turnout at Durga Puja suggests that the same resolve might be fading.

This situation reminds me of a recent incident when Jaipur police arrested a mullah in Varanasi, suspecting him of involvement in the Jaipur bomb blasts. The arrest sparked significant protests from the Muslim community, leading to his release due to political pressure and concerns over vote banks. Even though he remains a suspect, he is now free and continues his activities.

Similarly, Afzal Guru, who was convicted for the terrorist attack on the Indian Parliament, was sentenced to death by the Supreme Court. However, the Central Government, led by Congress, has stalled the execution by petitioning the President, who is a Congress candidate. Reports suggest that many terrorists, including those in jail, live under relatively favorable conditions due to political and police corruption.

Sometimes I wonder if individuals like Afzal Guru and the mullah who was released under political pressure are involved in orchestrating bomb blasts. Political parties often prioritize maintaining support from influential vote banks, such as the Muslim community, over addressing terrorism effectively. The current state of affairs makes it seem like meaningful change is unlikely to come anytime soon.

Gwalior for tour guide training

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On the 27th, I traveled to Gwalior for counseling regarding the tour guide training program. My train was delayed by two hours, so I arrived at 10:30 AM, giving me nearly four hours before the counseling session was scheduled to start at 3 PM. I had heard a lot about the Gwalior Fort, so I decided to explore it. I took an auto rickshaw to the fort and reached by 11:00 AM. Gwalior Fort is massive and unlike any fort I’ve seen before. Perched 300 feet atop a hill, it features a nearly 2-kilometer-long inclined road leading to its entrance.

Within the fort, I visited the Mansingh Palace, the Sas-Bahu Temple, the Sikh Gurudwara, and the Teli Temple. Despite having three hours to explore, I quickly realized that the fort was far too vast to see everything in that time. I tried to find a guidebook or some information about the fort, but there were no tourist resources available. The ticket counter at the entrance listed a ticket price of twenty paise, a denomination that hasn’t been used for years, suggesting that updates were long overdue. The only refreshment option was a single coffee shop.

I had hoped to catch the evening sound and light show but didn’t have enough time. I particularly enjoyed the Sas-Bahu Temple, which was adorned with intricate carvings that are around 500 years old. While at the fort, a group of young Sikh men approached me for a photo. Afterward, one of the youngest, who looked about thirteen or fourteen, advised me to wake up early. I was taken aback as he seemed to know about my nocturnal habits. He then began to ask for money, starting at fifty rupees and eventually reducing his demand to just two rupees, but I didn’t give him any.

Following the Sas-Bahu Temple, I visited the Man Singh Palace, built by Raja Man Singh Tomar in 1508. The palace was later captured by the Mughals and used as a special jail for important prisoners. It was the only palace I’d seen with colorful tiles on its walls, adding to its unique beauty. I was approached by several people offering to guide me, but with only thirty minutes left, I decided against it. In retrospect, a guide might have been helpful as the palace was quite complex, reminiscent of Lucknow’s Bada Imambada.

I then proceeded to the counseling center, where I was surprised to see many attendees over the age of thirty-five, some even over fifty. Initially, I thought they might be parents of the students, but they were actually individuals who had passed the exam. It seems these experienced guides were seeking licenses to formalize their status, as they frequently face challenges from government guides and ASI officers. The institute was impressive, featuring a computer lab, library, auditorium, and well-maintained grounds, all air-conditioned. The counseling was divided into two parts: document verification and registration.

I first had to get my documents verified in a separate room where three employees checked my certificates and their attested copies. After this, I filled out a form with details like my name, roll number, marks, batch preferences, and center. I had hoped to join the New Delhi center for the second batch, but it was fully booked, so I was assigned to the Gwalior center instead. The training fee was Rs. 2000, covering the library, computer lab, and teaching costs. The training will start on January 5th and last for 45 days, followed by a week-long tour.

Afterward, I’ll be assigned a city or tourist region to research and write a report on, which must be completed within ten weeks. An exam and interview will follow, and upon passing, a tour guide license will be issued. By 5 PM, with my train back to Benares at 8:40 PM, I left the institute and walked to the railway station, which was about 5 kilometers away. Walking allowed me to see more of Gwalior, a city that, while smaller than Benares, appeared more organized with better traffic, housing, and greenery. On the train, I met a fellow Benares resident who had also qualified for the exam.

He had been working with Japanese tourists but was unhappy due to their perceived lack of generosity. Now that he would have a license, he planned to work with tourists from wealthier countries like the US or Britain. He mentioned that many Japanese-speaking guides in Delhi can’t read or write Japanese, having learned the language through conversation. However, future exams will be conducted in various languages, which might address this issue. Overall, the trip to Gwalior was short but productive. I completed the counseling process, explored the fort, and had a pleasant walk around the city. I’m looking forward to my training period in Gwalior.

Negotiation of dowry

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It was the first time in my life that I heard a family discussing their son’s marriage in such a transactional manner. My neighbor, whose son lives in Delhi after completing his 12th grade studies, is keen to get him married soon. The groom’s mother and grandmother visited our home to inquire if there were any suitable girls in our family. They spoke with my mother about the marriage, and my mother knew a few families looking to marry off their daughters.

The groom is only 26 years old and still a student, pursuing a computer degree. They requested a dowry of Rs. 10,00,000 (US$25,000) in cash, along with household items such as a refrigerator, washing machine, TV, music system, and a bike. Their exact words to my mother were, “We deserve to get back what we have invested in our child’s education.” Hearing a family speak in this way was shocking. It didn’t feel like a marriage proposal; it felt more like a business transaction where they expected a return on their investment with added profit. My mother decided not to consider any of her relatives for this family.

Rs. 10,00,000 is a significant amount for a middle-class Indian family. Most people cannot save such a sum in their entire lives. Furthermore, there is no guarantee that after paying this amount, the groom’s side won’t ask for more. Typically, greedy families continue to demand additional dowry even after the marriage. It’s horrifying to hear about brides being killed over dowry disputes. How can anyone kill a family member over money?

Another issue arises from the competition between sons-in-law. For instance, if a father has two daughters, he is expected to pay the same dowry for both. One of my friends has four brothers. The eldest got married about four years ago, and the second brother married about two years ago. The second brother received a bike as dowry, which the eldest had not. Consequently, the elder brother started pressuring his wife to ask her father for a bike, resulting in her father having to provide additional cash even after four years of marriage.

My cousin also wants a car for his marriage. He works at a travel agency and earns only Rs. 6,000 per month, which isn’t enough to cover the costs of petrol and maintenance for a car, yet he insists on having one. While there are NGOs that organize dowry-free marriages, they are still not widely known or practiced. Dowry remains a major factor contributing to the declining sex ratio in India. Although there are cultural issues at play, they are not as pervasive as the dowry system. I hope to see change in my lifetime, but I’m not sure if it will happen.

Why do people travel?

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In the past month, I met six Couchsurfing members, and I was surprised to find that four of them seemed unclear about the purpose of their travels. They spent most of their time sleeping and relaxing in their guesthouse rooms. Among them were two Germans and two Americans. The German visitors stayed in Benares for four days but didn’t explore much. They missed out on key experiences like Aarti and walks along the ghats, and only briefly watched a funeral without showing much interest in Aarti or Sarnath.

The American travelers were students. One of them was studying Urdu at an institute in Lucknow for a research project on Hindu-Muslim tensions. I was eager to learn more about her research, but unfortunately, I had to leave for Gwalior the day I met her. The other American was learning Hindi with Virendra Singh and had been living in Varanasi for a month. The Urdu student knew about Aarti but was unaware of Sarnath, while the Hindi student knew about Sarnath but hadn’t heard of Aarti. He had never even visited Godaulia, the downtown area of Benares. I’m unsure how he spent his time over the past month.

After finally seeing Aarti, he remarked that it was possibly the most impressive part of Benares for him. Natasha, the Urdu student, also enjoyed Aarti and decided to visit Sarnath the following day. Swami Vivekananda once said that if you have free time, traveling is a great way to utilize it because it allows you to learn about different cultures, engage with people, and make the world a better place. I believe that travel should be about learning and experiencing new things, but the individuals I met seemed to be traveling merely because they had extra time and money, or perhaps to boast about their travels. They could have gained similar knowledge and insights by spending time online in their own countries. I’m still puzzled about their real purpose for traveling.

Rinki’s good heart and her marriage

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Rinki, my uncle’s daughter, is now 25 years old. Her father has been searching for a groom for the past two years, but finding a match has been challenging. The primary issue is that Rinki had heart valve surgery a few years ago. Despite the fact that she was treated by one of the most renowned doctors in India, who has confirmed that she is in excellent health now, prospective grooms and their families have been hesitant. They are concerned that Rinki might still be unwell or could face future health issues. My uncle has made considerable efforts, approaching numerous families through his own connections, but to no avail.

He is even willing to offer dowry if needed, but no one agrees. My father also tried to find a groom for Rinki in Varanasi. A friend of his recommended a relative who has a Master’s degree in Astrology and works with his father, an astrologer. Initially, everything seemed promising. The groom’s family did not believe in dowry and appeared very accommodating. After meeting with them and discussing the proposal, my father took a photo of the groom to show our family. Everyone liked him, and the decision now rested on Rinki’s approval. My father informed Rinki’s father, who then traveled to Varanasi to meet the groom’s family.

He also liked the groom and agreed to the match. I was asked to send the groom’s photo to my brother in Noida, where Rinki is currently living, so she could see it and give her opinion. Given Rinki’s shy nature and the history of rejections she has faced, I knew she would likely not express any disapproval, even if she had reservations. Rinki did not view the photo but expressed her willingness to marry the groom chosen by her father. We also sent Rinki’s photo and her Kundali (horoscope) to the groom’s side. Everyone was excited about the wedding, which was planned for February.

My mother inquired about what gifts we would give Rinki, and the family was preparing to come to Varanasi for wedding shopping. Everyone was enthusiastic and hopeful. However, today we received disappointing news: the groom’s family has canceled the marriage. They claimed that Rinki is not as educated as the groom, which seemed like an unreasonable excuse. The groom holds a Master’s degree in Astrology, while Rinki has a Bachelor’s degree in Arts. The educational difference is minimal, and Rinki is still young and willing to pursue further education.

The cancellation was disheartening and left me feeling deeply saddened. It’s frustrating when educated people use such excuses, and it makes me question our society’s values. Repeated rejections can make Rinki feel like a burden to her family and cause her to doubt her worth, which is unfair. This situation highlights broader issues within our male-dominated and often uneducated society. It is distressing to see women’s rights continually violated and to witness the immense pressure placed on girls in small towns and villages. They are often presented as mere commodities in the marriage market, subjected to judgments about their appearance and perceived worth, and pressured into dowry arrangements that their families cannot afford.

Our sex ratio in 2001 was 933 girls for every 1,000 boys, and the imbalance continues to worsen. The future seems uncertain, and it is disheartening to think about how long it will take for girls and boys to have equal rights and opportunities.

Tour guide exam result

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The results for the tour guide exam have finally been declared, and I passed! The exam was held on August 26, 2007, and the results were announced on November 7, 2008, after more than a year. The government faced numerous challenges during this period, including four lawsuits from applicants on various grounds, but everything is now settled. Out of over 50,000 applicants, only 300 passed the exam, and I secured the 223rd rank. One notable observation from the results is that only eight women passed the exam.

This could be attributed to two factors: either parents are still reluctant to allow their daughters to work away from home, or women may feel insecure about such jobs. Indian girls in small cities are often highly qualified, pursuing higher education in fields like history or languages, which are well-suited for this profession. Despite the high demand for female tour guides, the number of successful female candidates remains low. I am now set to begin a sixteen-week training program, which includes fourteen weeks of classroom instruction and two weeks of touring various monuments in North India with a professor.

After completing this training and tour, another exam will be conducted. Those who pass the exam will undergo an interview, and upon successful completion, a tour guide license will be issued. This training is part of the preparations for the Commonwealth Games in 2010, so it seems likely that the government will not delay the start of the training. However, given the unpredictable nature of government processes, there might still be unforeseen delays. Despite this, I am excited about the training and eager to obtain my license so I can start working as a tour guide as soon as possible.

Flood in Bihar 2008

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The situation in Bihar is now dire and completely out of control. Over 4 million people have been affected by the floods, and the Indian government seems to be doing nothing to address the crisis. I have witnessed scenes of immense suffering: people fighting for food, crying, and the carcasses of animals scattered around. The scale of the devastation is unlike anything I have ever seen. The affected people are without food, shelter, and medicine, and there is no adequate relief effort in sight. Experts estimate that it will take at least 4 to 5 months for the situation to stabilize, followed by a likely surge in diseases and poverty.

In one relief camp, I saw a chaotic scene where more than 50 people fought over a single packet of roasted garbanzo. In the end, no one managed to get any of it; the packet burst open, and the garbanzo scattered on the ground. People walked over it and some tried to collect as much as they could, hoping it might help them survive. When government officials brought a packet of food, hundreds were already waiting, making the relief effort seem inadequate and poorly managed. One particularly heartbreaking sight was a family who had to drown their cow in the floodwaters because they could no longer afford to feed it.

In a deeply emotional and traditional ceremony, they decorated the cow, performed a puja, and then released it into the floodwaters where it quickly drowned. The family wept and voiced their anger at the government for their plight. Meanwhile, the Indian government is investing heavily in projects like the Delhi Metro, preparing for the Commonwealth Games 2010, and constructing new stadiums and roads. While these are significant investments, they seem misplaced when compared to the urgent need to address the crisis in Bihar. It feels as though the government is prioritizing showy projects over the immediate need to provide resources and save lives.

The funds would be better spent on providing relief and support to the millions suffering in Bihar rather than on extravagant projects that do not address the pressing issues faced by those in need.

Dialysis in Varanasi

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An American student from Boston University, named Andrew, reached out to me regarding his friend Rinat from Uzbekistan, who requires dialysis treatment in India for six months. They had initially contacted Apollo Hospital in Delhi, but found it to be quite expensive and also noted that Delhi’s pollution made it an undesirable option. There were no available apartments near the hospital either. They inquired about dialysis services in Varanasi, and I directed them to Heritage Hospital in Varanasi by providing their email address. Andrew and Rinat contacted Heritage Hospital and discovered that they offer dialysis services for foreigners as well.

I visited Heritage Hospital to inquire about their services and charges. The costs were as follows: Rs. 2500 for the first dialysis, Rs. 1000 for a blood check-up (charged only once), Rs. 1700 for each of the next three dialysis sessions, and Rs. 2500 for the fifth session. This was significantly cheaper than Apollo Hospital, and Varanasi is less noisy and polluted compared to Delhi. Andrew then requested to rent my apartment for six months for Rinat. However, I had reservations about hosting someone who does not speak English and only speaks Russian.

I expressed my concern about the language barrier, but Andrew assured me that they would provide a translator for the first week. I was still concerned about the situation beyond that initial period. I asked about Rinat’s current health and learned that he has only one kidney and very low hemoglobin levels—one-third of the normal range. This situation was worrying, as Rinat’s condition seemed quite critical. They also requested that I contact the Indian Embassy in Tashkent to notify them that I would be hosting Rinat. I was uncomfortable with this, as it would make me responsible if anything went wrong with Rinat’s health.

To better understand the situation, I consulted friends in the US and Canada. While they knew people with only one kidney, they were also concerned about Rinat’s low hemoglobin levels. After discussing with my friends and family, I decided not to host Rinat due to the serious nature of his condition. However, I still wanted to assist Andrew and Rinat. I offered to help by finding a guest house for Rinat, accompanying him to the hospital, speaking with doctors, arranging food and other necessities, and showing them around. They agreed to this arrangement. I have requested them to fax me all of Rinat’s medical reports so that I can discuss his treatment with the doctors.

They want to hire me to assist Rinat throughout his stay. I will meet Rinat in Delhi and bring him to Varanasi. I’ve reached out to students at BHU to find a Russian-speaking student to serve as Rinat’s translator. Additionally, Andrew wants Rinat to learn Hindi while he is in Varanasi, so I have contacted Bhasha Bharti to inquire about a Russian-speaking Hindi teacher and am awaiting their reply. This is proving to be a challenging task, but I am committed to helping in any way I can.