Tag Archives: research assistant

Coca-Cola research for book

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I worked with the American writer Mr. Michael Blanding as his translator and local assistant for two days, on June 14th and 15th, in Mehndiganj. Mr. Blanding is writing a book titled *Coke Machine*, which explores the Coca-Cola issue and will be published by Penguin Publications, USA. I first met him on June 14th at the Lok Samiti’s office in Mehndiganj. While Michael has previously written articles about the Coca-Cola issue in Colombia, this book will also address problems in India, Colombia, and Mexico. One of his notable articles is “Coke: The New Nike?”

Broken pipes of Rain harvesting system at Mirjamuraj Police station

Before working with Michael, I was aware of the issues in India and Colombia but did not know that Mexico was also affected. Michael informed me that Mexico is the largest market for Coca-Cola products, and now faces severe problems with obesity and other health issues. Obesity was not prevalent in Mexico a few years ago, but with the increased sales of Coca-Cola products, the obesity rates have also risen. He also mentioned that Coca-Cola and Pepsi are planning to introduce coconut water in India, which struck me as odd. I doubt they will be able to offer a truly natural product, as it will likely be mixed with chemicals.

We interviewed about ten people, visited Coca-Cola’s rainwater harvesting sites at various locations, and examined their wastewater discharge system. I had hoped for improvements, but the situation remains unchanged. We visited two rainwater harvesting sites: one on the rooftop of the Agriculture Research Center in Kallipur village and another on the rooftop of the Mijramurad Police Station. Neither site was operational, with most pipes either broken or jammed. At the Agriculture Research Center, staff reported that Coca-Cola had set up the site about two years ago to create a positive impression.

 

However, it ceased functioning within a few months, and despite notifying Coca-Cola officials, no repairs were made. The rooftop now overflows, and the rainwater harvesting system is entirely nonfunctional. The well, intended to capture and recharge groundwater, was completely dry, and residents said they had never seen water in it due to jammed pipes. The situation at the Mijramurad Police Station was similar. Most pipes were broken or jammed, and local residents, including a journalist and police officers, confirmed that the site stopped working a few months after its installation, with no subsequent maintenance from Coca-Cola.

Residents near the Coca-Cola plant reported significant water shortages, blaming the company for their problems. They noted that water scarcity was not an issue before Coca-Cola arrived in Mehndiganj. Many showed us their dry wells and nonfunctional hand pumps. Farmers now purchase water for irrigation because their bore wells no longer work. Wealthier individuals with submersible pumps sell water to poorer farmers. We visited two ponds dug by the village committee, which are different from Coca-Cola’s sites. The committee had chosen land with lime-rich soil to filter the water effectively.

They connected nearby villages to the pond through pipes, allowing rainwater to flow into the pond and recharge groundwater. It appeared that the village committee’s efforts were far more effective than Coca-Cola’s. Nandlal Master, President of Lok Samiti, mentioned that Coca-Cola had conducted groundwater testing through an agency called TERI (Tata Environmental Research Institute), which recommended that the company leave Mehndiganj. Based on my observations over the past three years, I agree that Coca-Cola should exit Mehndiganj. I am eager for Michael’s book to be published and hope it will support the people of Mehndiganj in their struggle.

 

HIV, AIDS education pamphlet distribution

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A student from the University of Montana, USA, contacted me expressing interest in volunteering for my organization and staying at my guest house. I was also looking to initiate a project for sex workers in Benares, so I asked if he would help me organize a program for them. He was very enthusiastic about the idea. Although we didn’t manage to start the program for sex workers due to his busy schedule in Benares and some unexpected tasks I needed to complete, we did distribute pamphlets during the Maha Murkh Sammelan (Biggest Fool Conference).

This festival is uniquely Benares and is celebrated annually on April 1st. This year, over 3,000 people attended the conference. Since Winslow and I were the only ones distributing pamphlets, we aimed to reach around 200-250 people. We set up on the steps of Rajendra Prasad Ghat and began handing out pamphlets. Our target audience was people aged 15 to 45, with a particular focus on those aged 15 to 30. While people were not very interested in taking pamphlets from me, they were quite receptive to Winslow.

Winslow distributed all his pamphlets first, and then I handed him most of mine, so we ended up distributing nearly 150 pamphlets. Initially, we focused on attendees at the festival, but later we wandered along the river, distributing more pamphlets to young people. On April 2nd, Nandlal Master organized an event to inaugurate a water cooler, a computer room, and sewing machines donated to his organization, Lok Samiti. The water cooler was provided by Union Bank of India, and the other items were donated by an organization from South India.

Nandlal had informed me that 600-700 people were expected at the event, so we planned to distribute pamphlets there as well. However, the crowd consisted mainly of children under 10 or adults over 45, so we decided it was best not to distribute pamphlets. Nandlal has also asked me to organize an HIV/AIDS education program for his Kishori centers. These centers are schools run by Lok Samiti and ASHA for girls over 13 years old, with each center hosting about 50-75 girls.

Winslow’s friend, who had lived in Varanasi for a year about two years ago, knew the principal of Delhi Public School and suggested that Winslow meet him. Winslow relayed this to me, and I asked him to inquire whether the school would allow us to organize an HIV/AIDS education workshop there. Delhi Public School is an English-medium school and one of the most prestigious in Benares, if not India. I’ve always wanted to work with English-medium schools because their students are at high risk of contracting STDs, and there’s a lack of sex education in India despite the co-educational system.

This presents a valuable opportunity for me to get involved with English-medium schools, and I am looking forward to it. However, there is a significant issue with funding, which remains unresolved.

Tabla lessons in Varanasi

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A student named Allen Roda from the University of New York arrived at my guest house on the 12th. He is conducting research on Tabla making, a topic that seems to have been explored very little before. Allen plans to write a comprehensive study covering all aspects of Tabla production, including the origins of the skin, the crafting process, the source of the wood, and more. He had already made some contacts in Varanasi before his arrival. I thought it would be beneficial for him to meet Mr. Deobrat Mishra, so I introduced them. Allen mentioned that he greatly appreciated Mr. Mishra’s insights.

I also wanted to introduce Allen to Mr. Praveen Uddhav, a senior lecturer of Tabla at BHU. By coincidence, Mr. Mishra had also recommended that Allen meet Mr. Uddhav. We visited Mr. Uddhav, and during our meeting, Mr. Uddhav expressed some concern about Allen’s interactions with other Tabla makers in Varanasi. He introduced us to an Irish visitor named Steve, who had recently been defrauded by a tout.

Steve had come to Varanasi to study Tabla and hoped to enroll in an M.Mus. program at BHU. He met a man named Siddharth, who told Steve that he needed to buy various instruments, even though he was only interested in learning Tabla. Steve believed Siddharth and ended up purchasing 30-40 different instruments worth $23,000. This included not only traditional instruments but also Western drums and others. After the purchase, Siddharth stopped meeting with Steve.

When Steve visited BHU to apply for admission, he met Mr. Uddhav and explained his situation. Mr. Uddhav informed him that he only needed a pair of Tabla, costing around $100, to start learning. Realizing he had been swindled, Steve filed an FIR against Siddharth. The police arrested Siddharth’s father, who was not in the city at the time. Siddharth’s father returned Rs. 4,00,000 ($8,000) to Steve and promised to pay the remaining amount soon. I felt deeply sorry for Steve, but such incidents are not uncommon in Varanasi.

This might explain Mr. Uddhav’s reluctance to let Allen meet too many new people. However, I believe it’s beneficial for Allen to network widely for his research. I am confident that Allen will be more cautious and won’t spend even $23 without proper verification. During our visit, we also saw Mr. Uddhav’s 8-year-old daughter playing the Tabla remarkably well. Mr. Uddhav mentioned that she could produce all the different sounds and just needs to improve her finger speed to become as accomplished as other renowned players.

Allen managed to meet at least fifteen new people, which is excellent for his research. He is leaving on the 18th but plans to return in June for an extended stay of one year to continue his research. He intends to bring his wife, Nikki, who works for the Federal Reserve Bank. Nikki is looking to volunteer in Varanasi and found an organization called Cashpor India, which is a microfinance trust providing small loans to impoverished individuals. I think this organization will be a great fit for Nikki’s skills and interests.

Photo documentary on Ganga

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Nadia left Varanasi on the 20th. She stayed at my place for a month while working on her photo documentary titled *Child of Ganga*. During her time here, we explored various locations along the river together. We visited several sewage discharge points, and it was a remarkable experience to accompany Nadia on her journey. I thoroughly enjoyed our time and learned a great deal about the different areas where sewage is directly discharged into the river.

Nadia initially expected to complete her research in a month, but she found that this was hardly sufficient. As people often say, even a lifetime might not be enough to fully understand Varanasi. She plans to return next year to continue her research. Her documentary is scheduled to be shown at the university in March 2009, and I am eagerly looking forward to it. When I asked Nadia if she would acknowledge my contribution in her documentary, she assured me that if she doesn’t, she could be sued.

In addition to the documentary, Nadia is also writing a book, and I hope to see my name mentioned in it. Nadia’s approach seems unique compared to other researchers who visit Varanasi. Typically, foreign researchers are unaware of events that occur only once or twice a year, such as the pilgrimage where people visit major temples in Varanasi and, contrary to expectations, end up drinking sewage water instead of the intended sacred water from where the river Varun merges with the Ganga. In reality, the Varun is essentially sewage.

We had hoped to witness this event, but Nadia had to leave before it occurred. I am very excited about the book she is writing and regret not having more time to discuss her reflections on spending a month in Varanasi, as she was often busy. I look forward to seeing her again in the future and assisting with her research.

Photo documentary about Ganga

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A student from Singapore is staying with me. She contacted me through Couchsurfing, initially just to meet up. However, when I discovered she was conducting research on the Ganga, I asked if she would be interested in staying at my place as a paying guest. She was also looking for a homestay, so she agreed to rent my apartment. She is working on a photo documentary titled “Son of Ganga,” which explores the relationship between the people and the Ganga in Varanasi. Although she started this research as a personal project inspired by her father, her school became involved once she informed them and requested time off.

She wanted to collaborate with the Sankat Mochan Foundation for her research. She reached out to them about twenty days ago but has yet to receive a response. I’ve had many conversations with her about the pollution in the Ganga. I took her to a spot where untreated sewage is discharged directly into the river. She was stunned by the volume of waste and said she had no idea the Ganga was so polluted. When I told her there were over ten such discharge points in Varanasi alone, she was incredulous. I also showed her another sewage discharge point near Shivala Ghat and Assi Ghat.

The Assi Ghat drain has a rather ironic story. The government spent a significant amount of money diverting the drain to mix with the Nagwa drain to make the discharge less visible. Yet, the Assi Ghat drain has started up again, discharging untreated sewage directly into the Ganga. It’s baffling why such a large sum was spent merely to obscure the problem rather than investing in a proper treatment plant. There is another river in Varanasi called the Varuna, which has essentially become a large drain. Locals refer to it as “Varuna Nala,” with ‘nala’ meaning drain in Hindi.

I only recently learned that Varuna River and Varuna Nala are the same thing. A religious walk called Antargrih starts at Manikarnika Ghat and covers all of Varanasi. One segment of this walk involves walking along the Varuna River and performing rituals where it merges with the Ganga. The Varuna River flows through areas with numerous Muslim neighborhoods and slaughterhouses. Waste from over ten to fifteen slaughterhouses is dumped directly into the river, along with substantial amounts of sewage. The river is so notorious for its filth that it has become a preferred spot for criminals to dispose of bodies.

It’s not uncommon to find human remains in the river, which eventually mix with the Ganga after several kilometers. This walk is scheduled for later this month, and Nadia and I have decided to participate. I’ve heard that people drink water from the Varuna where it merges with the Ganga. Despite walking along the river, witnessing all the waste, both animal and human, and observing the immense sewage discharge, they still drink this water purely for religious reasons. I can’t fully imagine what we will encounter, but I’m excited for the experience.

Tawayaf culture in Varanasi

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An anthropology student from the University of Pittsburgh, USA, named Megan contacted me recently. She was referred by my friend Adam Sergent, an anthropology student from the University of Chicago, who had stayed at my guest house a month ago while learning Hindi in Varanasi. Megan is currently in her fourth year of research, focusing on Tawayaf culture, sex work, and HIV. Adam had mentioned my NGO to her, and she was interested in learning about my experiences working with these issues. I was intrigued by her interest in Tawayaf culture; while I had some knowledge about them, I hadn’t delved deeply into their world before.

This has sparked my curiosity, and I plan to research more about them. Megan mentioned that she was already collaborating with an NGO in Varanasi that works with sex workers but wanted to expand her contacts to other cities as well. I provided her with information about a few NGOs in Azamgarh and Mau that I am familiar with. She also requested a written document confirming her work with sex workers, Tawayafs, and HIV in Varanasi, which she needs to secure funding from her university. I will consult with my legal advisor to see if I can assist her with this request.

We had an extensive discussion about our respective experiences, and we’ve agreed to collaborate in the future. I’m looking forward to working together and supporting her important research.

Interview with Musahars in the village

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During my time working for the Financial Times in Varanasi, I had the opportunity to spend time with the Musahar community, a group still considered untouchable in Indian society. Traditionally, Musahars are known for collecting and making bowls from Pipal leaves, a craft that has become increasingly obsolete as plastic bowls have replaced their traditional products. We visited a Mushahar village near Mehndiganj, Varanasi. The village consisted of simple clay huts, and the interviewee was a 24-year-old married woman whose husband worked as a rickshaw driver.

The family of six included her husband, father-in-law, mother-in-law, and two daughters. Despite their dire economic situation, none of their daughters attended school. Her husband earned only Rs. 25 (50 cents USD) per day, and due to their caste, no one in the local community wanted to ride in his rickshaw. During the harvest season, Mushahars get some temporary work cutting grains on other people’s land. Ironically, while they cut and handle the grains that others eat, they are not allowed to sit on the same rickshaw or access the same resources due to their caste.

Their payment for this labor is often in the form of grains rather than cash. They typically receive around 150 kgs of grains per year, valued at Rs. 2000 ($50), which is not enough to sustain a family. The traditional occupation of making leaf bowls has lost its significance due to the widespread use of plastic, further impacting the Mushahar community’s income. Although this practice persists in smaller towns, cities like Varanasi are slowly abandoning it. During the interview, the interviewer was shocked by the family’s meager income and gave Rs. 500 to the interviewee as a gesture of empathy.

The local guide suggested distributing the money among the villagers. However, this led to a heated argument among the community members. The interviewee insisted on keeping the initial Rs. 500 for herself, while the villagers argued that it should be shared. The situation escalated into a conflict, and we had to leave quickly to avoid further violence. The village had only a hand pump and a well for water, both of which often dried up during the summer. Being near a Coca-Cola plant, they faced significant water scarcity issues. The local people, aware of their caste, would not allow them to use their water resources. As a result, the women of the Mushahar community, who are responsible for fetching water, had to walk 2-3 kilometers daily to get water.

When we arrived, the villagers brought out a Khatia (a rope bed) for us to sit on. However, when they asked about my caste and learned that I am a Brahmin, they refused to sit with me due to the caste differences.

AIDS survey in Mehdiganj, Varanasi

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Lok Samiti organized a group wedding for 30 couples in Mehdiganj, expecting over ten thousand attendees. I saw this as a great opportunity to kick off Sanjeevni Booti’s work. I discussed the plan with Lane, and we decided to conduct a survey on HIV awareness and distribute pamphlets about basic knowledge of AIDS. Lane prepared the content for the pamphlets and created questions for the survey. I had 2,000 pamphlets and 200 survey sheets printed.  I needed additional help with the survey, so I asked my friends Raju, Sonu, and Bablu—who are also members of Sanjeevni Booti. Sonu agreed immediately, but Raju and Bablu were initially busy with other work.

To encourage them to help, I offered them a day’s salary. Raju agreed to this offer, but Bablu did not. Lane covered all expenses, including the pamphlets, survey sheets, and travel costs. I also needed some female volunteers to survey other women, but I couldn’t find any.  I asked Nandlal if any of Lok Samiti’s female members could assist with surveying women for Sanjeevni Booti. Nandlal agreed to send two females, but unfortunately, they were occupied with wedding preparations when we arrived. As a result, we could not conduct surveys with any women.

We ended up surveying over 80 people and distributed 1,000 pamphlets. I was shocked by the villagers’ responses about AIDS. It seemed they had little understanding of the disease. Some believed AIDS could spread through the air, others thought it could result from having more than five sexual partners a day, and some thought it could be easily treated with medication. None of them were aware that AIDS could spread through shared razors or needles. When asked if any other NGOs had educated them about AIDS, none said yes, indicating they had not been informed by anyone with accurate knowledge. India has a high number of AIDS cases, and the rate is increasing rapidly due to changing sexual practices as the economy grows.

The rise in sexually transmitted diseases (STDs) is likely to continue. The government needs to take action to prevent this issue from escalating further. Given that Indians are generally open to new ideas and the use of condoms has not been a major issue, we can control the spread of this disease with proper education. Lane compiled the survey results into a report, which was published on Sanjeevni Booti’s website.

Stupid Coca-Cola manager

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While working on a project related to Coca-Cola, we were passing by the Coke plant in Mehndiganj, Varanasi when we noticed a house right next to it. My researcher friend was keen on interviewing someone nearby, so she asked me to find people who might agree to an interview. As I got out of the taxi in front of the Coke plant, I noticed a few security guards at the plant gate. They observed me and then went inside the plant, though I initially didn’t think much of it.

I found an elderly man in the house who was willing to be interviewed, as he was facing significant difficulties. I called my friend, and as she approached, I saw the same security guards watching us from the roof of the plant. When they saw the white girl coming towards me, they quickly descended from the roof. I assumed they were simply curious about our activities. A few minutes later, a well-dressed man arrived with several security guards. He introduced himself as a regional manager from Amar Ujala, a leading Indian newspaper, and claimed to be researching the Coke issue for an upcoming article.

He showed me an ID card issued by Amar Ujala, which confirmed his affiliation. He expressed interest in collaborating with my friend and was thrilled to find another researcher working on the same topic. They exchanged contact details. Meanwhile, the interviewee was vocal about his grievances with Coca-Cola. He claimed that he had been a landlord before Coke’s arrival but had struggled to grow enough crops since the company’s operations began. The Amar Ujala representative, however, argued that Coke provided many local jobs, a point the interviewee disputed.

The representative then gave the interviewee a written note, advising him to take it to the Coke manager to help his unemployed son find a job, claiming the manager was his good friend. The interviewee was hopeful that this would secure employment for his son. After the interview, we left, and I contacted Mr. Nandlal Master to update him. To my shock, Mr. Nandlal Master revealed that the Amar Ujala representative was actually Coca-Cola’s area manager, Mr. Amit Sinha. He had previously worked for Amar Ujala but left a few months ago to join Coke. The ID card he showed was from his time at Amar Ujala, which he had not returned.

Later that evening, Mr. Sinha called my friend, asking to meet her the next day. He called again that night, and his behavior became increasingly inappropriate. He suggested she stay with him at his place, which she declined, preferring to meet in a public setting. Despite her refusal, he persisted with suggestive comments and invitations. When she mentioned she was married, he rudely suggested that her husband wouldn’t know, which prompted her to angrily hang up the phone. She was deeply disturbed by this encounter, an unexpected behavior from a Coca-Cola manager.

The incident led to significant pressure from everyone involved to lodge a formal complaint. My friend was reluctant due to concerns about her privacy and the potential for public exposure. Mr. Nandlal Master also reached out to Amar Ujala, who were also interested in pursuing a case against Mr. Sinha for misusing their name but needed a written complaint from my friend, which she was unwilling to provide. A few days later, we visited the Coke plant with special permission from Coke US. I confirmed Mr. Sinha’s employment with Coke, and the company made efforts to appease my friend, showing her their nearby rainwater harvesting sites.

However, these sites were not close to the plant, the nearest being about 8 kilometers away. In the days that followed, Mr. Sinha attempted to settle the issue by offering money through Mr. Nandlal Master, which was firmly rejected. The situation continued for over 15 days, with persistent pressure on me to convince my friend to file a complaint, but she refused. Eventually, she left India, hoping that Mr. Sinha would be held accountable in the future, although he remains Coca-Cola’s area manager to this day.

For privacy reasons, I have not disclosed her name in any related posts.

Conference on Water Rights, Mehdiganj, Varanasi

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A conference on water rights was held in Mehndiganj from March 28th to 30th, 2008. I was invited by Nandlal to attend, and I was thrilled to learn that Sandeep Pandey and Medha Patekar would also be speaking. Nandlal Master also mentioned that a girl from the U.S. wanted to attend the conference and interview local villagers about their issues with Coke. She needed a translator, which made me even more excited because it meant I had the chance to work with her! I arranged to meet her at Assi Ghat, where we had an extensive discussion about the Coke issue in Mehndiganj.

After our conversation, I invited her to my home, where I showed her various documents related to the Coke controversies in Mehndiganj, Plachimada, and Kaladera. Impressed by my knowledge and assistance, she offered me a job as her translator. She was a PhD student in history at a prominent university in the U.S., though she requested that I not mention the name of her institution. She was friendly, well-educated, and deeply interested in the history of Coca-Cola in India. She was staying at a BHU hostel arranged by her university, but she found it inconvenient due to the lack of internet access in her room.

She had to walk 10-15 minutes each time she needed to use the internet. When she saw that my guest house had internet in all the rooms and a biologist staying in the next room—whose expertise could be useful for her research on groundwater depletion—she decided to move to my place. During the conference in Mehndiganj, I assisted her with translation as we interviewed numerous people, including social workers from Kaladera. I’ve chosen not to mention her name in this post as she experienced sexual harassment during her work and preferred to remain anonymous. If you want to learn more about her experience, please refer to the linked post.