Tag Archives: New York

Tabla lessons in Varanasi

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A student named Allen Roda from the University of New York arrived at my guest house on the 12th. He is conducting research on Tabla making, a topic that seems to have been explored very little before. Allen plans to write a comprehensive study covering all aspects of Tabla production, including the origins of the skin, the crafting process, the source of the wood, and more. He had already made some contacts in Varanasi before his arrival. I thought it would be beneficial for him to meet Mr. Deobrat Mishra, so I introduced them. Allen mentioned that he greatly appreciated Mr. Mishra’s insights.

I also wanted to introduce Allen to Mr. Praveen Uddhav, a senior lecturer of Tabla at BHU. By coincidence, Mr. Mishra had also recommended that Allen meet Mr. Uddhav. We visited Mr. Uddhav, and during our meeting, Mr. Uddhav expressed some concern about Allen’s interactions with other Tabla makers in Varanasi. He introduced us to an Irish visitor named Steve, who had recently been defrauded by a tout.

Steve had come to Varanasi to study Tabla and hoped to enroll in an M.Mus. program at BHU. He met a man named Siddharth, who told Steve that he needed to buy various instruments, even though he was only interested in learning Tabla. Steve believed Siddharth and ended up purchasing 30-40 different instruments worth $23,000. This included not only traditional instruments but also Western drums and others. After the purchase, Siddharth stopped meeting with Steve.

When Steve visited BHU to apply for admission, he met Mr. Uddhav and explained his situation. Mr. Uddhav informed him that he only needed a pair of Tabla, costing around $100, to start learning. Realizing he had been swindled, Steve filed an FIR against Siddharth. The police arrested Siddharth’s father, who was not in the city at the time. Siddharth’s father returned Rs. 4,00,000 ($8,000) to Steve and promised to pay the remaining amount soon. I felt deeply sorry for Steve, but such incidents are not uncommon in Varanasi.

This might explain Mr. Uddhav’s reluctance to let Allen meet too many new people. However, I believe it’s beneficial for Allen to network widely for his research. I am confident that Allen will be more cautious and won’t spend even $23 without proper verification. During our visit, we also saw Mr. Uddhav’s 8-year-old daughter playing the Tabla remarkably well. Mr. Uddhav mentioned that she could produce all the different sounds and just needs to improve her finger speed to become as accomplished as other renowned players.

Allen managed to meet at least fifteen new people, which is excellent for his research. He is leaving on the 18th but plans to return in June for an extended stay of one year to continue his research. He intends to bring his wife, Nikki, who works for the Federal Reserve Bank. Nikki is looking to volunteer in Varanasi and found an organization called Cashpor India, which is a microfinance trust providing small loans to impoverished individuals. I think this organization will be a great fit for Nikki’s skills and interests.

Indian Salary

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An American contacted me to help book his train ticket from Varanasi to Agra. He had tried to buy the ticket online but found it too complicated. He suggested meeting for dinner in Varanasi, and we arranged to meet at his hotel near Assi Ghat. His hotel was quite nice. When I arrived, I noticed a 50-year-old man talking to two Western women. He was explaining that he couldn’t find a train ticket and had contacted someone in Varanasi, offering dinner in exchange for help with his booking. I realized he was referring to me and approached him, confirming that he was Christopher.

I think he initially believed I had helped him with the ticket in exchange for a meal at a nice restaurant, which seemed to be his impression. Although he was relieved to have his ticket, he then asked which restaurant I wanted to dine at. I hadn’t considered his offer seriously, as I assumed he just wanted to chat. I generally prefer not to eat out, so I declined his offer. Christopher mentioned that he had informed his hotel that he wouldn’t be eating there, so they wouldn’t prepare his meal. To resolve this, I took him to a restaurant where he had his dinner. During our meal, we discussed the Coca-Cola issue again.

He remained unconvinced that Coke was at fault, believing instead that the problems lay with the people and the Indian government. The next day, Christopher asked if I would be his tour guide. I accepted the offer, and we spent the day exploring various temples and wandering around the city. He was particularly interested in meeting people, so I arranged for him to meet Lali Baba. Although I believe he was satisfied with my services, the payment was surprisingly low. Despite being one of the wealthiest people I had worked with—he lived in an upper East Side Manhattan apartment where the average salary is $320,000 per year—he paid me only $10 for a full day of work.

I didn’t see the money until later, and when I did, it turned out to be just $10. It reminded me of what Lane had said: “You don’t need to be rich to spend and poor to save money.” It was quite a humorous moment.

New York girls tour Varanasi

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I had the pleasure of working with two American girls, Maria and Olena, as their tour guide in Varanasi. They contacted me through my apartment listing on Craigslist. This was my first time arranging a tour, and I was thrilled because I had always wanted to work in the tourism sector. Both Maria and Olena were from New York—Maria was studying Public Relations at New York University, and Olena was pursuing a law degree. They were very interested in experiencing real Indian life, so I arranged for them to stay at my place. With only two days to explore Benares, I wanted to make the most of their time.

We started their tour as soon as they arrived, heading first to BHU (Banaras Hindu University). After a brief rest at home, we visited the Dashashwamedh Ghat for the evening Aarti. They were captivated by the Aarti and impressed by the dedication of Hindus who spend over an hour daily praying to the Ganges. Despite their amazement, they understood that to non-Hindus, Ganga is just a river. Afterward, we visited the Bull Shop, which turned out to be one of their favorite experiences. The next morning, we embarked on a boat ride. Following the ride, we went to Sarnath, but unfortunately, the Buddha Temple was closed by the time we arrived.

However, Maria particularly enjoyed the Sarnath Museum. After Sarnath, we visited Lali Baba, which was a highlight as always. We spent almost an hour there, watching him wear his 350 necklaces, play with skulls, and perform puja. Our day continued with visits to the Kina Ram Monastery, Tulsi Manas Temple, and Sankat Mochan Temple (the Monkey Temple). At dinner, Maria and Olena asked me about Hijras, which was an unusual topic for me to discuss with them. We spent nearly an hour exploring this subject. Both Maria and Olena were keen on Indian cuisine, so I invited them to spend some time in my kitchen with my wife.

They even cooked pasta with Parmesan cheese, which was a delight for them, and I was pleased to see the cheese being used in Benares. Overall, arranging this tour was an amazing experience, and I thoroughly enjoyed it. I would love to do it again. After their time in Benares, Maria and Olena went to Goa to celebrate the New Year.