Conference on Coca-Cola Mehdiganj

On March 28th, Amanda and I headed to Mehndiganj. We arrived to find a bustling conference in full swing, with over 500 attendees present. The atmosphere was lively, with a musical group performing folk songs about the Coke issue. I had seen these performers before and always enjoyed their music, so despite the noise, I found the experience enjoyable. Lok Samiti was inaugurating a new pond in Mehndiganj, and most people were attending that event. We went to the inauguration site, which was about 2 kilometers away from the conference venue.

By the time we arrived, the inauguration was over, but we managed to catch the tail end of the celebrations. Nandlal Master, Sandeep Pandey, and other social workers were distributing sweets to the villagers. I missed the ceremony itself but took plenty of pictures. While there, I met Anurag, Sandeep Pandey’s cousin who was working with ASHA. He was enthusiastic and wanted to engage with everyone. I also met Mr. Rajiv from New Jersey, a friendly member of ASHA. Amanda wanted to conduct interviews, but due to the noisy environment, we decided to focus on recording the speeches for the day instead.

Lunch was provided by Lok Samiti, and we joined about a thousand other people for the meal. Amanda and Dave were both offered food repeatedly. Dave was thrilled with the Indian food and ate everything, while Amanda left some of her food, as was her habit. After lunch, we returned to the conference. It was Dave’s turn to speak, and Anurag translated his speech. Although the translation wasn’t perfect, it sufficed. Dave spoke about a river in the U.S. that had caught fire due to heavy pollution, which made me think about the future of the Ganga.

He highlighted the importance of wetlands and the need for government intervention in environmental issues. I agreed with his points and appreciated his thoughtful speech. Following Dave, many other social workers gave speeches. One speaker from South India, who initially claimed he couldn’t speak Hindi and would give his speech in English, surprised everyone. He began in English but soon switched to fluent Hindi. I wondered why he chose to speak English initially, given that the audience was predominantly local villagers who did not understand English. It seemed he might have been trying to reach out to the few foreigners present, which felt misplaced given the context.

Reflecting on my previous experience in Mehndiganj, I remembered a cultural program organized by Lok Samiti about seven months earlier. During that event, when a guest from London was introduced, the villagers showed limited understanding of international geography. Some villagers debated whether London was far from Lucknow or close to Delhi, revealing their limited exposure to global locations. This incident underscored the lack of broader knowledge among the villagers, highlighting that the South Indian speaker’s attempt to address foreigners instead of focusing on the local audience was misguided.

The day ended with another folk song performance, and by the end of March 28th, we wrapped up our activities and headed home. The conference had been a mix of engaging moments and moments of disconnect, but it was an experience full of insights into the local dynamics and challenges.

London Law Researcher studies Coca-Cola in Mehdiganj

I worked with a law researcher from the University of London as both an assistant and translator. He was interested in the legal aspects of the Coca-Cola issue. Having lived in India for over a year, he knew some Hindi, but not well enough to conduct interviews on his own. He is the president of an NGO called Glocality International, which has offices in London and New Delhi. I worked with him for three days in Varanasi.

Tyler was also involved in some high-profile international law cases. For instance, he and a colleague had sued seven Chinese ministers, including the President and Prime Minister, for the deaths of over a million people in Tibet. He explained that the case was registered in Spain because no other country was willing to accept a case against the Chinese government in their courts.

During our time together, we interviewed numerous villagers, Nandlal Master, and several government officials, including the Regional Pollution Control Officer, Ground Water Authority officials, and District Village Committee officers. Tyler was particularly impressed with how Nandlal and his team were leading their movement. Given that Tyler had only three days and wanted to maximize his interviews, we spent one night at Lok Samiti’s office to speak with Nandlal and his colleagues.

We encountered difficulties with the Regional Pollution Control Officer, who believed his English was sufficient to communicate with Tyler, despite Tyler’s advance notice that I would be assisting. The officer often misunderstood Tyler’s questions but remained overly confident in his responses, attempting to obscure the issues. Tyler was determined to gather as much information as possible.

The situation escalated when Tyler used a voice recorder without informing the officer, leading to a heated exchange. The officer, upon discovering the recording, became hostile and threatened us with police intervention. Tyler responded by stating that he would sue the Pollution Control Department in the Supreme Court of India for corruption related to the Coca-Cola issue. He warned that if the Supreme Court confirmed the corruption, the officers could face jail time, which only intensified the officer’s anger.

Eventually, we left the office, laughing about the tense encounter with the irate officer. It was quite amusing to see a PCS officer so angry but unable to act against us. In contrast, the District Village Committee Officer was very engaged and eager to discuss the Coca-Cola issue. He shared extensive information about the situation and the role of Village Committees, and he promised to provide all necessary documents and support. He was the first government official I had met who seemed genuinely interested in talking to people, possibly due to his interest in conversing with a foreigner.

Meeting Lok Samiti to discuss the Coca-Cola issue

A student from the University of California, Santa Barbara came to stay at my guest house for a month. She was pursuing a PhD in Sociology and was interested in topics like globalization and water privatization in India. She was the first person I met who mentioned that Coca-Cola was a controversial company in India. While I knew there was a Coke plant in Varanasi, I was unaware of the disputes surrounding it. She wanted to meet Mr. Nandlal Master, who was leading a movement against Coca-Cola in Varanasi. We arranged an appointment with him.

Since Mr. Nandlal does not speak English, Krista asked me to act as her translator. So, Lane, Krista, and I traveled together to Mehndiganj, where Mr. Nandlal lives and the Coca-Cola plant is located. Nandlal Master had given me directions to his place, but they were quite complicated. After reaching Rajatalab, which is about 3 kilometers from Mehndiganj, we asked several locals about Nandlal Master, and most of them knew him and his location. Unfortunately, we mistakenly ended up at the Coca-Cola plant.

Thinking it would be helpful, I asked the security guard there for directions to Nandlal Master’s place, which in retrospect was a major mistake. The guard became visibly angry upon hearing Nandlal Master’s name and rudely told me to ask somewhere else. Eventually, a few locals pointed us in the right direction, and we arrived at Lok Samiti’s office, where Nandlal Master resides. During our meeting, Nandlal Master described the movement against Coca-Cola, which seemed to be a significant issue.

He detailed numerous disputes involving Coca-Cola in Varanasi that I had never heard of before. According to him, the controversies included violations of hazardous waste regulations, conflicts with the community, water theft, revenue theft, low wages for employees, and land disputes with local committees. I was shocked to learn that these issues had been ongoing in my city for the past five years without my knowledge. When I asked Nandlal Master why the issue was not more widely known, he explained that Coca-Cola buys advertising from the media, which discourages them from covering the controversy.

Krista wanted to interview locals about their water problems, so right after our meeting with Nandlal Master, we began conducting interviews. Krista was the most dedicated person I had ever met. Despite the oppressive heat—around 45 degrees Celsius—she remained unfazed and determined to meet as many people as possible. We often interviewed people in their fields, homes, or on the street, directly under the scorching sun.

Over the course of 25 days, we interviewed more than 40 people, including some government officials such as Pollution Control Board officers, Ground Water Authority officers, and the District Magistrate of Varanasi. Krista also wanted to interview Coca-Cola officials but was never able to locate any. Despite our efforts, we had no success in finding them. Now, I need to transcribe all the audio recordings from the interviews conducted in Mehndiganj.