Bhopal

The City

I visited Bhopal for the first time with a friend, and I really loved the place, especially the way Madhya Pradesh Tourism Department has organized tourism in the state. There was a small issue with the hotel booking, but it was fine in the end. We stayed at Ranjeet Hotel near the railway station. The hotel was nice for the amount I paid, but when I had tried to book it over the phone from Varanasi, they told me there were no rooms available. We reached Bhopal around 10:30 PM without any booking, but since we already knew about Ranjeet Hotel, we decided to take a chance and show up there. Surprisingly, even though they had told me earlier that no rooms were available, they still gave us one. Strange, but definitely good for us.

the city

Bada Lake

We had one important purpose in Bhopal, which was to visit Chingari Trust to learn about their work. We managed to do that the very next day after arriving. With plenty of time left, we decided to explore the city. On the suggestion of the people working at Chingari Trust, we went to see the two famous lakes of Bhopal: Bada Talab and Chhota Talab. Both were wonderful, clean, and offered several options for water sports. Chhota Talab is separated from Bada Talab by an over-bridge. We didn’t try any sports but enjoyed walking around and soaking in the calm atmosphere.

wetland for birds and crocodiles

Beautiful Kids at the Mosque

After visiting the lakes, we took an auto rickshaw back to the hotel. On the way, I asked the driver if there was any other interesting place nearby. He suggested the Darul Uloom Taj-ul-Masjid. I had already read about this mosque and wanted to see it, so we decided to visit before returning to the hotel. It turned out to be one of the best experiences in Bhopal. The mosque was grand and beautiful, and it is considered one of the largest mosques in Asia. Unlike many mosques in India, this one allows women, non-Muslims, and foreigners to enter, which I found very welcoming.

beautiful kids at the mosque

Meeting a Student

Inside the mosque, there is an Islamic school. I met a very nice student who showed me around. He shared his life story and even took me to his room. He told me that he had studied up to Class 12 in a regular school, but afterward, he chose to dedicate himself to Islamic studies. He showed me his books, but when I wanted to touch his Quran, he politely stopped me. He explained that since the Quran is the holiest book for Muslims, there is a specific process of purification required before touching it. I was really impressed by his respect for his faith.

We spoke for nearly two hours about many things, including politics and Hindu-Muslim relations. He told me that Islam strictly prohibits creating tensions between communities, so anyone who does it is not a true Muslim, no matter what they claim. I had heard this before, but it was refreshing to meet a young person who truly believed in it. For me, such people represent the real development of India. We exchanged contact information, and I hope to meet him again whenever I return to Bhopal.

Van Vihar National Park

The next day, we visited a small national park called Van Vihar, located near Bada Talab. It was a peaceful and well-maintained place. They had bicycles for rent, battery-operated vehicles, and of course, walking paths. The park was quiet and clean, with a wide variety of animals such as lions, tigers, leopards, deer, bears, hyenas, crocodiles, and monkeys. The animals seemed to be kept in good condition. The park stretches for about seven kilometers from one end to the other. Plastic bags were banned, and it was a no-horn zone, so it felt very different from the usual chaos of Indian cities. At the far end, there was a cafeteria serving snacks. We rented bicycles, explored the park, and really enjoyed the calm environment.

awesome place

One interesting thing I noticed was the urinal system. They had arranged a separate design for Muslims, since they squat while urinating. It was set up lower to the ground to allow this posture. Despite traveling across India, visiting Muslim friends’ homes, and experiencing many things, I had never seen anything like this before. Bhopal has a large Muslim population, which probably explains the arrangement.

look at the right side ones

More Sites Nearby

Later, we visited Bhimbetka, famous for its ancient cave paintings, and on the way back, we stopped at the Bhojpur Shiva Temple. The next day, we explored Sanchi, known for its Buddhist stupas. All of these places were fascinating, and I thoroughly enjoyed Madhya Pradesh. The weather was pleasant, the city was green and quiet, the sites were clean, and I never encountered touts.

Honestly, my home state has far better tourism potential than Madhya Pradesh, but because of politics and government negligence, tourism here is rarely given priority. If things continue this way, Madhya Pradesh will soon surpass Uttar Pradesh as a leading tourism destination. Visiting Bhopal and its surroundings was a truly memorable experience.

Varanasi bomb blast

Affected Area

Once again, something happened that I never want to hear about. Varanasi has faced yet another bomb blast – this time at Dashashwamedh Ghat during the Ganga Aarti. My work brings me to this place at least 15 times a month, and though I was not there today, I am shaken and heartbroken for those who were affected. What makes it even worse is the way the tragedy is being hidden. The central government, the UP state government, and much of the media are not telling the truth about the scale of the devastation. I personally saw at least 10 ambulances filled with injured people passing through my neighborhood, yet the official count claims only 20 injured and 1 girl dead.

Dashashwamedh Ghat

Empty Ghats

The ambulances I saw were all headed to BHU hospital, but I know for a fact that at least three other hospitals are also treating victims. This means the real number of injured must be well over 100. I have no words to fully express my grief, but I can say with certainty: enough is enough. The group Indian Mujahideen, which once operated under the name SIMI (Students Islamic Movement of India), has claimed responsibility. But in my view, responsibility also lies heavily on our own government, police, and intelligence agencies. Their repeated failures are what make such tragedies possible.

What hurt me further was listening to the official responses. The Prime Minister and Sonia Gandhi simply appealed for calm, while the UP police made the obvious statement that “this was a terrorist attack”. The whole country already knows this – it doesn’t need repeating. What we need is action, not empty words.

Bomb blast place

Sad Faces

How many times will we be told to “stay calm”? How many times will our leaders fail to protect us, yet ask us to quietly endure? This cannot continue.

I know that writing a post on my blog will not stop terrorism or corruption, but I want to appeal to everyone reading this:

  • Think very carefully before casting your vote.

  • Whenever a policeman demands a bribe, refuse and expose it.

  • If you see corruption or illegal activities, document them and share them publicly.

  • Hold our leaders, police, and intelligence accountable.

We must unite – against terrorists, yes, but also against the corruption and negligence that allow terrorism to flourish in India. Today I feel both sad and angry. My city is wounded again. The ghats are empty, the faces are full of sorrow, and while leaders prepare for their VVIP visits, ordinary people suffer.

Sad faces

Sad faces

Enough is enough.

Road cleaning for VVIPs

Road cleaning for VVIPs

The whole city was closed in the protest of the bomb blast

The whole city was closed in the protest of the bomb blast

Ayodhya court decision

Ayodhya, Ayodhya, Ayodhya…

I think this is the most popular word in India these days. Everyone was talking about the High Court’s decision on the Babri Mosque demolition case. This mosque was destroyed by a group of Hindus on 6th December 1992, and since then the case had been pending in the Allahabad High Court. The entire country was waiting with both excitement and fear. In Varanasi, where police are rarely seen on normal days, the streets were suddenly filled with security forces. Army personnel were stationed everywhere, and helicopters circled above. The atmosphere was tense and frightening, as people feared possible riots after the verdict.

Finally, the decision came. The court attempted to strike a balance — trying to make both Hindus and Muslims happy. But Muslims were clearly dissatisfied and immediately decided to challenge the verdict in the Supreme Court of India. Of course, everyone already knew that whichever side lost in the High Court would appeal to the Supreme Court, but it was still surprising to see political leaders who had been urging the public to “respect the verdict” suddenly turn angry themselves when the judgment didn’t align with their expectations.

I spoke to a Muslim acquaintance about his views. He said Muslims felt deeply hurt and disappointed. According to him, the High Court had treated them “like beggars” by giving them only a small portion of the land, even though they believe the entire disputed site rightfully belonged to them. I personally disagreed with this view, because history shows that there was once a Ram temple at the site, which was demolished by Babur. For the sake of harmony and unity, I feel Muslims should also acknowledge this and accept the land they were allotted.

In fact, if we look at it strictly from Islamic principles, the Babri mosque should not have been considered a legitimate mosque at all. Islam clearly states that no mosque built by destroying a sacred site of another religion can be considered a mosque. This means the Babri mosque was invalid from the beginning. And above all, that land is believed to be the birthplace of Lord Rama — one of the most sacred places for Hindus, perhaps the most sacred in all of India. For Muslims, the Babri mosque was neither historically important nor religiously unique. So why be so unhappy?

I am certain that Hindus would never compromise on this site, and Muslims too should reflect on its importance. Thankfully, the most positive outcome of the verdict was that no riots broke out this time. In 1992, hundreds of people lost their lives, and in subsequent years the anniversary often brought violence. But by God’s grace, this time it passed peacefully, even though emotions were high. It seems that the younger generation of Hindus is less invested in this dispute than before, but the worry lies with some Muslim groups.

Islam divides the world into Muslims and non-Muslims (Kafirs). It also considers idol worship to be Haram (forbidden), which makes it hard for Muslims to sympathize with Hindu temples. Many even know that the Babri mosque was built by demolishing a Hindu temple, yet they would never support the Hindu claim. Some even feel pride in the fact that invaders destroyed Hindu temples and converted Hindus to Islam.

I find it strange and troubling that many Muslims in India connect themselves with those invaders, even regarding them as their ancestors. This mindset is dangerous. India is the second-largest Muslim-majority country in the world, and if a section of its population begins to see itself as aligned with invaders rather than with India itself, then one day this mentality could do serious harm to the country.

Hindu at Taj Mahal’s Namaz

I’ve always had a keen interest in various religions, particularly Islam, and recently, I had the opportunity to learn more about it. During my tour guide training in Gwalior, I shared an apartment with a Muslim man named Sana, and we’ve since become good friends. We lived together for six weeks in Gwalior, traveled together for a week in Jaipur and Agra, and I even stayed at his apartment in Delhi. I had long been curious about Namaz (the Islamic prayer) and was excited to learn more. On Eid, while staying with Sana, his friend Khesal, and Prem in Agra, we were just a five-minute walk from the Taj Mahal.

Sana is an unconventional Muslim. He once told me he was an atheist, while Khesal was a devout Muslim who would leave our training sessions to perform Namaz. Sana was quite open-minded, even about things like drinking, which is prohibited in Islam. On Eid, Sana and Khesal wanted to perform Namaz at the Taj Mahal, which offers free entry on this day. I asked if I could join them. Sana was supportive, but Khesal seemed concerned about bringing a non-Muslim to the mosque. I had discussed Namaz with Khesal the night before Eid and had some idea of what to expect, but I was both excited and a bit apprehensive.

I didn’t want to be stopped and told to leave because of my Hindu identity. Sana reassured me that everything would be fine if I followed his advice. He instructed me to hide the red thread on my wrist and to ensure my Janeu (sacred thread) wasn’t visible. Despite my excitement, I was nervous. I asked my friend Prem to join us, but he declined, citing his limited knowledge of Hinduism and his general discomfort. So, I went to the Taj Mahal for Namaz with Sana alone. I bought a handkerchief to cover my head and tried to blend in. With an estimated twenty to thirty thousand people present, I felt certain I was the only Hindu there, and as a Brahmin, I felt even more conspicuous.

When Namaz began, I was anxious about making a mistake. Sana had taught me the basics, and I was closely observing those around me. I did make a mistake, but Sana noticed and corrected me. I mistakenly recited the Gayatri Mantra instead of the Quranic verses, but I managed to complete the Namaz without drawing attention to my Brahmin background. Completing Namaz was a fulfilling experience. Sana had mentioned that regular Namaz practitioners seldom experience joint pain due to the frequent standing and bending. After performing Namaz, I ventured into the Muslim neighborhood behind the Taj Mahal and saw the festivities of the festival.

It was a wonderful experience, and I would love to learn Namaz properly in the future, especially with someone like Sana to guide and ensure my comfort.

Protecting Hindu temples in Varanasi

Tomorrow is Muharram, a significant festival for Muslims. On the eve of this festival, Muslims in the city hold a nighttime parade that starts from various mosques. During the parade, many male participants walk the streets, beating their chests as a symbol of mourning. This act commemorates the death of one of their revered figures. I always observe this parade with respect and appreciation for their traditions, culture, and religion. Each parade features a beautifully decorated horse, adorned with flowers, which people believe brings blessings. I also take one flower every year.

This year, however, I noticed something unusual. Yesterday, I saw municipality workers setting up bamboo barriers around Hindu temples in my neighborhood. When I inquired, they explained that the barriers were meant to protect the temples during the parade. I was perplexed, as I didn’t understand why Hindu temples would need extra security for this event. The workers mentioned that there is a concern that Muslims might harm the temples. While I had heard rumors about such tensions, I never thought they were true. The parade itself, with its intense atmosphere, might give an impression of potential violence.

There is always a heavy police presence, including the Rapid Action Force, to ensure security during the parade. I’ve heard claims that violence has occurred during these events in the past, though I can’t confirm their accuracy. Seeing the barriers around the temples made me question whether the concerns about this festival are justified. Varanasi is known for its Ganga-Jamuni culture, symbolizing the harmony between Hindus (Ganga) and Muslims (Jamuna). This tradition suggests a strong friendship between the two communities, but recent events make me doubt if this harmony still exists. The tension following the destruction of the Babri Mosque in Ayodhya seems to persist, though it may be hidden rather than resolved.

It’s disheartening to see Hindu temples being barricaded. While the safety of temples is important, it is troubling that such measures are necessary. It feels as though the government and people are overreacting to protect the temples in a country where over 80% of the population is Hindu. This situation reflects poorly on the state of our societal relations. The government’s actions seem to suggest that Muslims are given undue influence, possibly for electoral reasons, and that this has led to an environment where Muslims feel they can act with impunity, even to the point of potentially damaging temples.

Last year, on December 6th, the anniversary of the Babri Mosque demolition, Muslims closed their shops in Varanasi to protest and demanded the mosque’s reconstruction. Despite the historical context of the mosque being built on the site of a previous temple, many still demand its restoration. This ongoing dispute has been in the Indian Supreme Court for fifteen years, with no resolution in sight. It seems the government avoids making a decision to avoid upsetting the Muslim community. Violence between communities is a recurring issue. I recall an incident from seven or eight years ago when Muslims killed a Hindu man during a protest.

The man, who was newly married, was murdered on the street, leaving his widow to face a lifetime of hardship. Such events are deeply painful and highlight the persistent, unresolved tensions. I believe that the tensions between Hindus and Muslims are exacerbated by government policies that discriminate along religious lines. For example, Muslims receive subsidies for pilgrimages to Mecca, but Hindus receive no such assistance for their pilgrimages. Additionally, Muslims are recognized as a minority group in certain states and receive special benefits, while Hindus are not afforded similar recognition in places like Jammu and Kashmir.

This kind of discrimination only fuels societal divisions. It is more productive to emphasize commonalities rather than differences, yet our government often does the opposite. A figure like Zakir Naik, who organizes lectures that highlight differences between Islam and other religions, contributes to this divide. His speeches, primarily attended by Muslims who cheer his assertions of Islam’s superiority, are reminiscent of how violence can be incited through rhetoric. His influence, though non-violent in method, is damaging in its own way.

It seems the Indian government is more willing to impose restrictions on places of worship rather than addressing the root causes of communal discord. The fact that we need to barricade temples reflects a broader issue of fear and division. It is unfortunate that such measures are seen as necessary, and it suggests that the government’s handling of communal issues has led to a situation where discrimination persists. I now find myself seeing the divine presence in confinement not just once a year, but twice, and while it’s not a major issue for me, it still doesn’t feel right.

Bakrid 2008

Every day, I witness something that nobody would ever want to see: blood and meat strewn everywhere in my city. During a Muslim festival called Bakrid, each Muslim family is expected to slaughter a male goat, and sometimes they buy one for every member of the family. After slaughtering the animals, they discard the waste on the roads. It usually takes the municipality four to five days to clean up the mess. There’s a show on Discovery Channel called *Dirty Jobs*, and while I’ve watched it occasionally, I can tell you that the tasks they feature are nothing compared to what our municipal workers endure.

For these four or five days, animal waste remains on the streets, and people generally avoid the Muslim neighborhoods during this period. I had witnessed this about ten years ago and was reluctant to return, but this year I decided to revisit it with Nadia, a researcher from Singapore. Initially, we planned to walk, but we soon opted for a rickshaw because the sight was overwhelming. Goat skins, meat, and other waste covered the streets, and I was astonished to see people standing around and conversing as if it were a normal part of their routine.

We rode through all the major Muslim neighborhoods in Varanasi, and everywhere we went, we saw the same scene: meat, goat skins, and blood. I even saw someone riding a camel through one of the neighborhoods. When I asked some locals, they informed me that the camel was going to be slaughtered as well. Wealthy individuals sometimes slaughter camels to display their affluence, and the number of camels slaughtered is reported in the news each year. I read that ten camels were slaughtered in Varanasi alone this year.

I’m unsure how to address this issue or whom to hold accountable, but it’s clear that maintaining sanitation is a shared responsibility. Disposing of animal waste on the streets is unsanitary, spreads disease, and is visually repulsive. There’s nothing worse than being surrounded by discarded meat. Nadia, who is also Muslim, was shocked by what she saw. In Singapore, such practices are completely hidden from view. People there contribute money to mosques for slaughtering, which is done discreetly.

Nadia remarked that this method in Singapore—paying for the slaughter to be done on one’s behalf—seems far superior to what we experience here. After witnessing the heaps of meat, she felt ill, and I couldn’t bring myself to eat that day. Nonetheless, it was an eye-opening experience for both of us. Despite the common belief that selling meat is prohibited in Varanasi, the reality is that meat is ubiquitous: in shops, kitchens, and sometimes even on the streets.

Major Terrorist Attacks in India

India has experienced a series of major bomb blasts over the years, often with devastating consequences. The news channel NDTV 24×7 categorizes these as major incidents, reflecting the scale of the problem. The following are notable examples:

Recently, a suspect in the Jaipur bomb blasts, a Muslim man who teaches at a madarsa in Varanasi, was arrested. This led to significant unrest, with thousands of Muslims protesting and blocking traffic, demanding his release. The situation escalated when the head of a prominent mosque in Benares intervened, promising to secure his release by a specific deadline. Despite police resistance, the suspect was eventually released on bail after extensive protests, including the involvement of local political leaders. This situation underscores the challenges faced by law enforcement and the delicate balance required in handling communal tensions and terrorism-related issues.

The difficulty in prosecuting suspects and managing public protests reflects the broader struggles in combating terrorism while maintaining social harmony.