Shimla

Kalka-Shimla railway track

Kalka-Shimla railway track

It was the first time when I visited Shimla and I was so excited for this visit as I was going for vacations after a really long time and heat was just killing me in Varanasi and the weather was really nice in Himanchal Pradesh. We took an overnight train from Varanasi to Delhi first and then took another train from Delhi to Kalka in the evening and stayed overnight in Kalka because we wanted to go to Shimla by a toy train and the next train was only in the early morning time. We had tried to book the tickets online for this toy train but all the seats were already booked.

The world heritage train

The world heritage train

There were other options also but we wanted to take this train only because Kalka-Shimla train route is world heritage site and we wanted to experience it. We showed up at the Kalka railway station in the morning time and they told us that there were seats vacant in the train which would be leaving after only ten minutes.  Our hotel was at least five minutes walk from the railway station but we decided to take a risk by buying the tickets. We ran to the hotel, packed all of our luggage and showed up at the railway station within ten minutes.

Open compartment of the train

Open compartment of the train

We had to do everything very fast because the railway officers told us that the train was going to leave within ten minutes but the train left  after an hour. Anyways, we were able to catch the train. We were told that it would take about six hours from Kalka to Shimla but it took about ten hours, but still we enjoyed it actually. I was amazed to see how the British had built this railway line on the mountains. There were 102 tunnels and 988 bridges only during the small railway track of 96 kilometers. Some of the bridges just shocked me. I have heard that many photographers come from all over the world just to photograph those bridges and engineers come from all over the world to see those bridges to learn about the construction.

Vire from the train

View from the train

The nature was just awesome all the way starting from Kalka till Shimla. The train was running all the time on the mountains. It was green everywhere. There were several stations in between Kalka and Shimla where the train would stop. I tasted a lot of different kinds of fruits which are available only on the mountains. Finally we arrived in Shimla after eleven hours of tiring but nice journey. We decided to leave all of our luggage at the railway station and go looking for hotels. As we started walking out of the railway station, one porter asked us if we need a hotel.

Beautiful bridge

Beautiful bridge

We told him that we would find the hotel on our own but this creepy man did not want to leave us alone. He was following us continuously. We went to a few hotels but could not get any room. This porter was still following us so finally we decided to give him a chance and asked us to take us to some hotel. He took us to a few hotels and all of those hotels were expensive and did not want to sell the room alone and they said that they would give us a room only if we take the taxi from them. It was crazy. Then we decided to go to any travel agent to book the hotel and taxi both because we wanted to hire a taxi next for the couple of days.

Such writings were everywehre on the train stations

Such writings were everywhere on the train stations

Then we went to a travel agent and this guy was asking just too much money. Actually before leaving Varanasi once we had contacted a car rental service in Chandigarah and they wanted to charge Rs. 14,000 for the taxi and these guys in Shimla were asking for Rs. 24,000. This porter was continuously following us and we started feeling uncomfortable with it. I told him several times very politely to leave us alone but he was just too much. Once I got angry and started shouting at him but he still wanted to chase us. It was getting late and finally we decided to get cheated and buy the hotel and taxi from a travel agent.

Another writing

Another writing

The major problem in Shimla with us was that neither the hotels nor the travel agents wanted to sell the room alone; they all wanted to sell the room, the taxi, sight seeing and guide all together. You ask them for a hotel room and they tell you rates for all those services. It was a very well organized crime by the hotels and travel agents. Finally we paid Rs. 22,000 for the taxi for five days and two rooms for one night in Shimla. The travel agent showed us a video of the hotel room but once we arrived there, we realized that the room we were shown was different than the room we got.

Shimla

Shimla

After all these problems we decided to get out of Shimla as soon as possible.  We slept in the same hotel and when I woke up I found that my glasses were gone somewhere. I searched for my glasses everywhere in the room but could not find them. Then I called the hotel reception and asked them if they knew something about it and their answer was really shocking. They asked me if the room’s window was open and I said yes and then they said: monkey took your glasses. I was like how is this possible? I asked him why did he not inform  me if there was such problem in that area or why did they not screen all the windows but those crazy people had no answer.

Look at this word

Look at this word

I bought some new glasses in Shimla, took the taxi and left Shimla immediately. We just did not feel like staying there even for a few minutes. I just hate Shimla because of the people working in the tourism sector there. They are criminals. But there were a few good things also. There is a place called Mall Road in Shimla which had the cleanest street I had ever seen in all of India. Even vehicles are also prohibited in Mall Road. The architecture was completely British. Attila and his wife Dora told me that Shimla looked exactly like European cities. Especially the architecture of the buildings and the English word they were using in Shimla were complete British.

People also looked different

People also looked different

This always strikes me that although British updated themselves but we still follow all the British things. The buildings were nice but what about their crazy rules that were never updated? We had to come back to Shimla after visiting Manali and Tirthan valley. I left for Chennai to work and Bunti, Babu, Attila and Dora stayed in Shimla for two more nights because they wanted to see nearby places. Attila looked for some hotels in lonely planet and we found a really nice and honest hotel in Shimla called Hotel White. The location was just awesome, it being hardly 2 minutes from the Mall Road. We asked our driver to take us to the Hotel White but he did not know about this hotel. We asked a few locals and somehow reached the hotel.

View of Shimla from the Hotel White

View of Shimla from the Hotel White

This was the first hotel we had been in whole Shimla that had mentioned all of their rates clearly on a board near the reception. I always try to get a discount in hotels by showing my tour guide ID card and did the same with this hotel also but they did not give me any discount but I was happy that at least I was not over charged. I asked them why not many people knew about their hotel and they said that since they do not give any commission to the drivers or travel agents, nobody knows them. I felt like staying for some time in Shimla after finding this hotel but unfortunately I had to leave because of my work in Chennai. I would like to go to Shimla again and stay at Hotel White in Lakkad Bazaar and explore the town.

Behavior of ghosts in villages

I have always been intrigued by people who believe they are affected by ghosts and who go to great lengths, such as visiting babas or exorcists, to rid themselves of these supposed spirits. I’ve wanted to learn more from individuals who claim to have been haunted by ghosts or who have had ghostly encounters. Recently, I had the opportunity to meet a few people who feel possessed by ghosts and believe these entities are ruining their lives. A few days ago, I was in my village for my cousin’s wedding. I used to discuss ghost stories with him and my other cousin, and they shared some fascinating tales about ghosts in their village.

They mentioned a place where people who believe they are possessed go to seek relief. After the wedding, I asked my cousin to take me to this place, which was about 5 kilometers from the village. We navigated narrow paths, observed the picturesque village life, and finally arrived at the location where people come to be freed from ghosts. It was the tomb of a Muslim baba who had passed away many years ago. Locals believe that this baba had supernatural powers to combat ghosts and that he can still help even after death.

There were two tombs: a small one and a large one. We visited the small tomb first. I was told that Thursday is a special day for this place, attracting more visitors, although I’m not sure why Thursday is significant. Since it was Friday, I hoped there wouldn’t be many people. However, I was shocked to find about 30 families who had set up temporary shelters there. I noticed that these shelters lacked basic amenities like stoves or beds; people cooked outside and slept under the open sky. The temporary shelters were used mainly in case of rain. As I walked around the tomb, I encountered several distressing sights. I saw three people chained to a tree.

I approached one of them and sat nearby. Another man sitting there invited me to join him, and fortunately, he began explaining what was happening. He described his great distress due to ghosts. He explained that he had come there with his brother, who was also chained to a tree. The brother used to work as a tailor in Mumbai, while his brother worked in a factory in Ludhiana. One day, his sister-in-law called, reporting that her husband was behaving strangely and would not come home. He was exhibiting odd behaviors, making strange noises, and so on.

His condition seemed to suggest possession by ghosts to his brother, who instructed his sister-in-law to bring him to their village immediately. This man left his job in Mumbai to care for his brother. When I asked how he knew his brother was possessed, he claimed to have supernatural powers and experience with such matters. Upon arriving in the village, they took the possessed person to the tomb. The person resisted staying there and would often try to escape, which led them to chain him to the tree. He said his brother was haunted by several types of ghosts: one was an Aghori, another a Chamar, and others of different castes.

He explained that he inferred this from his brother’s actions, such as drinking his own urine (indicative of an Aghori) and spitting in his food or tearing his clothes (which he associated with a Chamar’s behavior). The final confirmation came from his conversation with the baba, whose tomb was there. I was puzzled when he mentioned speaking with the baba, as I knew the baba had died years ago. I asked him again, and he indicated the tomb, leading me to believe he was referring to one of the people present. My cousin clarified that he was talking about the baba whose tomb was there. According to him, after praying at the tomb, the baba communicates through the people’s tongues.

The baba never appears in person; instead, he allegedly possesses individuals and speaks through them. It was astonishing to hear such beliefs. The idea that the baba speaks through possessed individuals was difficult to grasp, but I continued to listen. I asked if he had ever been attacked by ghosts himself, and he loudly claimed that ghosts had continuously tried to attack him. However, because he also possessed some supernatural abilities, they could not harm him. He recounted an incident where, while riding his bicycle, he fell and broke his head after being struck by a ghost.

When I asked if he saw the ghost, he said no, but he believed it was a ghost due to the nature of the incident, which felt different from a mere accident. We then returned to his brother, and the affected person’s wife arrived with their six-month-old child, questioning her husband about who had inflicted the ghost upon him. I heard the affected person mention a name, but his wife disagreed, arguing that the person named was not capable of causing such problems. She insisted that he must provide the correct name and said they would keep him chained until he did. It seemed they had a specific name in mind and wanted it confirmed through the affected person’s responses. The affected person’s brother claimed the ghost was making him lie.

I asked the brother if his sibling felt any better since arriving at the tomb. He confidently stated that the baba’s help had significantly improved his brother’s condition after two months of confinement. It was distressing to think of a young man, around 26-27 years old, being locked up for two months. The brother also lamented the financial and time losses due to the ghost. He had left his job two months ago and was now financially depleted, yet he was determined to remain and fight the ghost. I was deeply troubled by the destruction of lives due to such beliefs. The sight of the six-month-old baby was particularly heartbreaking.

I suggested that they should consider seeing a doctor, but the brother proudly insisted that if his brother had a mental problem, he would be open to seeing a doctor. However, he believed that the problem was indeed ghostly and not a mental issue, as confirmed by the baba. It is hard to believe that such beliefs persist in the 21st century. I was even more saddened by the presence of numerous children who had been living there with their families for months. I wondered how these experiences might affect their future, as they might grow up to seek out exorcists or visit tombs themselves.

After speaking with the affected person, I walked around and saw two others also chained to trees. I wanted to speak with their families but found only a few children playing nearby. Many others were present, making strange noises, some talking to trees, walls, or even rubbing their bodies on the ground and screaming. It was disheartening to see so many people wasting their lives in this way. I decided to visit the second tomb, about 2 kilometers away from the first. The situation there was similar but seemed more organized, with some convenience stores nearby.

I witnessed an intriguing incident where a person, seemingly possessed, fainted, and his family made him drink Coca-Cola. After drinking, he seemed rejuvenated and resumed his activities, which humorously suggested that even ghosts might have a taste for Coca-Cola. As it was getting late and I needed to return to Varanasi, I left the place feeling both shocked and saddened. After returning to Benares, I spoke with several people, many of whom also believed in ghosts. Some explained that there are 8.4 million forms of life, including ghosts, and that everyone becomes a ghost at some point. Others described ghosts as having both good and bad varieties, with the bad ones causing trouble.

One friend told me a story about a haunted village where ghosts supposedly urinate or defecate on food left out overnight and create disturbances while the resident sleeps. Another story involved a ghost who smokes beedis in a locked room, with people providing beedis when the ghost knocks. They believe the beedis are consumed by the ghost despite the room being locked. I read an article about an English ghost in Bihar, believed to be a British soldier who wanders his cemetery. People offer him toast, coffee, and cigarettes, and if they forget, he reportedly harms passersby. The ghost is described as appearing as a British soldier with a sword.

Some people believe that ghosts arise from unnatural deaths or improper death rites, which seems unfair to me. I spoke with Aghoris, who suggested that while ghosts might exist, they usually do not bother others unless provoked. I prefer this perspective over the fear of ghosts. I often think about ghosts due to their frequent mention in my society. While many are afraid of ghosts, I am more concerned about street dogs or police behavior at night. My friends have mentioned the concept of “flashbacks,” where one might see or hear things that aren’t actually there.

This phenomenon, which I’ve experienced myself, can be mistaken for ghostly activity. If it persists, seeing a doctor is advisable, though many attribute it to ghosts and seek out exorcists or babas, often at great personal cost. I am considering creating a video documenting individuals who believed they were possessed by ghosts, only to find relief through medical treatment, in hopes of helping others reconsider their approach. I’m unsure if this idea will be effective, but I would like to pursue it if my resources permit.