Category Archives: Studies in India

Coca-Cola research for book

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I worked with the American writer Mr. Michael Blanding as his translator and local assistant for two days, on June 14th and 15th, in Mehndiganj. Mr. Blanding is writing a book titled *Coke Machine*, which explores the Coca-Cola issue and will be published by Penguin Publications, USA. I first met him on June 14th at the Lok Samiti’s office in Mehndiganj. While Michael has previously written articles about the Coca-Cola issue in Colombia, this book will also address problems in India, Colombia, and Mexico. One of his notable articles is “Coke: The New Nike?”

Broken pipes of Rain harvesting system at Mirjamuraj Police station

Before working with Michael, I was aware of the issues in India and Colombia but did not know that Mexico was also affected. Michael informed me that Mexico is the largest market for Coca-Cola products, and now faces severe problems with obesity and other health issues. Obesity was not prevalent in Mexico a few years ago, but with the increased sales of Coca-Cola products, the obesity rates have also risen. He also mentioned that Coca-Cola and Pepsi are planning to introduce coconut water in India, which struck me as odd. I doubt they will be able to offer a truly natural product, as it will likely be mixed with chemicals.

We interviewed about ten people, visited Coca-Cola’s rainwater harvesting sites at various locations, and examined their wastewater discharge system. I had hoped for improvements, but the situation remains unchanged. We visited two rainwater harvesting sites: one on the rooftop of the Agriculture Research Center in Kallipur village and another on the rooftop of the Mijramurad Police Station. Neither site was operational, with most pipes either broken or jammed. At the Agriculture Research Center, staff reported that Coca-Cola had set up the site about two years ago to create a positive impression.

 

However, it ceased functioning within a few months, and despite notifying Coca-Cola officials, no repairs were made. The rooftop now overflows, and the rainwater harvesting system is entirely nonfunctional. The well, intended to capture and recharge groundwater, was completely dry, and residents said they had never seen water in it due to jammed pipes. The situation at the Mijramurad Police Station was similar. Most pipes were broken or jammed, and local residents, including a journalist and police officers, confirmed that the site stopped working a few months after its installation, with no subsequent maintenance from Coca-Cola.

Residents near the Coca-Cola plant reported significant water shortages, blaming the company for their problems. They noted that water scarcity was not an issue before Coca-Cola arrived in Mehndiganj. Many showed us their dry wells and nonfunctional hand pumps. Farmers now purchase water for irrigation because their bore wells no longer work. Wealthier individuals with submersible pumps sell water to poorer farmers. We visited two ponds dug by the village committee, which are different from Coca-Cola’s sites. The committee had chosen land with lime-rich soil to filter the water effectively.

They connected nearby villages to the pond through pipes, allowing rainwater to flow into the pond and recharge groundwater. It appeared that the village committee’s efforts were far more effective than Coca-Cola’s. Nandlal Master, President of Lok Samiti, mentioned that Coca-Cola had conducted groundwater testing through an agency called TERI (Tata Environmental Research Institute), which recommended that the company leave Mehndiganj. Based on my observations over the past three years, I agree that Coca-Cola should exit Mehndiganj. I am eager for Michael’s book to be published and hope it will support the people of Mehndiganj in their struggle.

 

Hindi classes for guests

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I am currently hosting a couple from the US who reached out to me through my website. They are staying in Varanasi for fifteen days. Although they had visited Varanasi about fifteen days ago, they returned to relax and enjoy the city further. They were looking for a Hindi teacher and music classes—Christina wanted to learn the flute, and David wanted vocal lessons. I introduced them to Mr. Deobrat Mishra, the owner of a renowned Indian classical music school, conveniently located next door. Christina and David are pleased with their music teachers.

For the past few months, I have been in touch with a Hindi teacher named Mr. Binit Mishra, who assists Prof. Virendra Singh. I decided it would be a good opportunity to evaluate Mr. Mishra’s teaching skills, so I introduced him to Christina and David. Although I had read positive reviews about Mr. Mishra online, I was initially unsure of their accuracy. After Mr. Mishra has conducted four classes, I am confident that I have found an excellent teacher.

It is a relief for me because now my guests have a teacher right at their doorstep, eliminating the need for them to search for a suitable instructor elsewhere. I asked Christina and David about their experience with Mr. Mishra, and they both praised him highly. They confirmed that he is a great teacher and that I can confidently recommend him to anyone seeking a Hindi teacher. Mr. Mishra comes daily to teach Christina and David for two hours each.

Tabla lessons in Varanasi

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A student named Allen Roda from the University of New York arrived at my guest house on the 12th. He is conducting research on Tabla making, a topic that seems to have been explored very little before. Allen plans to write a comprehensive study covering all aspects of Tabla production, including the origins of the skin, the crafting process, the source of the wood, and more. He had already made some contacts in Varanasi before his arrival. I thought it would be beneficial for him to meet Mr. Deobrat Mishra, so I introduced them. Allen mentioned that he greatly appreciated Mr. Mishra’s insights.

I also wanted to introduce Allen to Mr. Praveen Uddhav, a senior lecturer of Tabla at BHU. By coincidence, Mr. Mishra had also recommended that Allen meet Mr. Uddhav. We visited Mr. Uddhav, and during our meeting, Mr. Uddhav expressed some concern about Allen’s interactions with other Tabla makers in Varanasi. He introduced us to an Irish visitor named Steve, who had recently been defrauded by a tout.

Steve had come to Varanasi to study Tabla and hoped to enroll in an M.Mus. program at BHU. He met a man named Siddharth, who told Steve that he needed to buy various instruments, even though he was only interested in learning Tabla. Steve believed Siddharth and ended up purchasing 30-40 different instruments worth $23,000. This included not only traditional instruments but also Western drums and others. After the purchase, Siddharth stopped meeting with Steve.

When Steve visited BHU to apply for admission, he met Mr. Uddhav and explained his situation. Mr. Uddhav informed him that he only needed a pair of Tabla, costing around $100, to start learning. Realizing he had been swindled, Steve filed an FIR against Siddharth. The police arrested Siddharth’s father, who was not in the city at the time. Siddharth’s father returned Rs. 4,00,000 ($8,000) to Steve and promised to pay the remaining amount soon. I felt deeply sorry for Steve, but such incidents are not uncommon in Varanasi.

This might explain Mr. Uddhav’s reluctance to let Allen meet too many new people. However, I believe it’s beneficial for Allen to network widely for his research. I am confident that Allen will be more cautious and won’t spend even $23 without proper verification. During our visit, we also saw Mr. Uddhav’s 8-year-old daughter playing the Tabla remarkably well. Mr. Uddhav mentioned that she could produce all the different sounds and just needs to improve her finger speed to become as accomplished as other renowned players.

Allen managed to meet at least fifteen new people, which is excellent for his research. He is leaving on the 18th but plans to return in June for an extended stay of one year to continue his research. He intends to bring his wife, Nikki, who works for the Federal Reserve Bank. Nikki is looking to volunteer in Varanasi and found an organization called Cashpor India, which is a microfinance trust providing small loans to impoverished individuals. I think this organization will be a great fit for Nikki’s skills and interests.

Swiss family takes Hindi class

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This is the first time I’m hosting a family, and they’re a couple with two children. Nadia is pursuing her master’s degree in Hindi Literature and Sanskrit at the University of Lausanne, Switzerland, while her husband is an engineer. They’ve come to Varanasi for a family vacation. Nadia has chosen Mr. Vimal Mehra as her Hindi teacher. Mr. Mehra taught Hindi at Nadia’s university last year, which is why she selected him. I took Nadia to Mr. Mehra’s place yesterday; it’s just a three-minute walk from my house. Mr. Mehra seems like a very nice person. From what I’ve heard, he also teaches at the Wisconsin University’s Varanasi center alongside Mr. Virendra Singh.

This is the first time any of my guests will be learning Hindi with Mr. Mehra. Although I had heard of him before, I had never met him personally. Many people have spoken highly of him, so I’m confident that Nadia’s classes will be beneficial. Nadia is also pleased with her lessons; she appreciates that Mr. Mehra encourages her to speak, which she had been missing in her previous two years of learning Hindi. I’ve enjoyed hosting their family. They are incredibly organized, reflecting their Swiss background. For example, when Gaitano, Nadia’s older son, dropped a plastic wrapper on the floor, Nadia immediately addressed it and disciplined him, which I found impressive.

Gaitano isn’t fond of Indian food, so we’ve been preparing noodles and pasta specially for him. On the other hand, Elio, the younger child, seems to enjoy our food and eats with his parents. Nadia has brought plenty of instant food and powdered milk for Elio. He’s adorable and always smiling. Everyone in my family and my neighborhood adores him. Whenever he’s on the roof, people from other rooftops often look over to see him. Paolo, Nadia’s husband, speaks a bit of English, which creates a small language barrier between us, but we manage to communicate. I enjoy talking to him because I’m interested in learning about his job.

Gaitano doesn’t speak any English, but Elio speaks an international language—mostly just “Mama,” which I find endearing. Nadia plans to travel to Mumbai on February 20th after completing her Hindi classes here. Following that, she will visit Singapore and then Australia.

Photo documentary on Ganga

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Nadia left Varanasi on the 20th. She stayed at my place for a month while working on her photo documentary titled *Child of Ganga*. During her time here, we explored various locations along the river together. We visited several sewage discharge points, and it was a remarkable experience to accompany Nadia on her journey. I thoroughly enjoyed our time and learned a great deal about the different areas where sewage is directly discharged into the river.

Nadia initially expected to complete her research in a month, but she found that this was hardly sufficient. As people often say, even a lifetime might not be enough to fully understand Varanasi. She plans to return next year to continue her research. Her documentary is scheduled to be shown at the university in March 2009, and I am eagerly looking forward to it. When I asked Nadia if she would acknowledge my contribution in her documentary, she assured me that if she doesn’t, she could be sued.

In addition to the documentary, Nadia is also writing a book, and I hope to see my name mentioned in it. Nadia’s approach seems unique compared to other researchers who visit Varanasi. Typically, foreign researchers are unaware of events that occur only once or twice a year, such as the pilgrimage where people visit major temples in Varanasi and, contrary to expectations, end up drinking sewage water instead of the intended sacred water from where the river Varun merges with the Ganga. In reality, the Varun is essentially sewage.

We had hoped to witness this event, but Nadia had to leave before it occurred. I am very excited about the book she is writing and regret not having more time to discuss her reflections on spending a month in Varanasi, as she was often busy. I look forward to seeing her again in the future and assisting with her research.

Music classes in Varanasi

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A guy from California stayed at my place for a week. He came here to explore music and Sanskrit classes and to get an overall feel for the city. He asked me for recommendations on music classes, and I suggested he visit Pandit Shivnath Mishra, who lives next door. It was amusing to discover that he had already met Pandit Mishra and his son in California. He had played some tabla with them and even received an offer to perform with them abroad as a tabla player.

Josh was thrilled about this opportunity. He expressed his eagerness to join Mr. Mishra’s ensemble. During his stay, he also visited Bunti’s school, where he played tabla and taught African music to the students. Bunti mentioned that everyone at the school really enjoyed the music. Josh was also interested in visiting Bal Ashram, an Aghor monastery. I took him there, where we encountered a British doctor who was providing free eye check-ups to the underprivileged.

I was impressed by his dedication; the monastery mentioned that he comes to Varanasi every year for a few months to work pro bono. Josh wanted to see the monastery as a potential place for his friends to stay and volunteer. I suggested he also check out Bhagwan Avdhoot Ram Ashram, which is the mother ashram, but he didn’t seem very interested. The mother ashram has had conflicts with Bal Ashram in the past due to some financial misconduct by Bal Ashram’s employees. I have faith in the integrity of the mother ashram.

Josh said he would visit both ashrams when he returns to Varanasi, and he plans to come back in the first week of January.

Photo documentary about Ganga

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A student from Singapore is staying with me. She contacted me through Couchsurfing, initially just to meet up. However, when I discovered she was conducting research on the Ganga, I asked if she would be interested in staying at my place as a paying guest. She was also looking for a homestay, so she agreed to rent my apartment. She is working on a photo documentary titled “Son of Ganga,” which explores the relationship between the people and the Ganga in Varanasi. Although she started this research as a personal project inspired by her father, her school became involved once she informed them and requested time off.

She wanted to collaborate with the Sankat Mochan Foundation for her research. She reached out to them about twenty days ago but has yet to receive a response. I’ve had many conversations with her about the pollution in the Ganga. I took her to a spot where untreated sewage is discharged directly into the river. She was stunned by the volume of waste and said she had no idea the Ganga was so polluted. When I told her there were over ten such discharge points in Varanasi alone, she was incredulous. I also showed her another sewage discharge point near Shivala Ghat and Assi Ghat.

The Assi Ghat drain has a rather ironic story. The government spent a significant amount of money diverting the drain to mix with the Nagwa drain to make the discharge less visible. Yet, the Assi Ghat drain has started up again, discharging untreated sewage directly into the Ganga. It’s baffling why such a large sum was spent merely to obscure the problem rather than investing in a proper treatment plant. There is another river in Varanasi called the Varuna, which has essentially become a large drain. Locals refer to it as “Varuna Nala,” with ‘nala’ meaning drain in Hindi.

I only recently learned that Varuna River and Varuna Nala are the same thing. A religious walk called Antargrih starts at Manikarnika Ghat and covers all of Varanasi. One segment of this walk involves walking along the Varuna River and performing rituals where it merges with the Ganga. The Varuna River flows through areas with numerous Muslim neighborhoods and slaughterhouses. Waste from over ten to fifteen slaughterhouses is dumped directly into the river, along with substantial amounts of sewage. The river is so notorious for its filth that it has become a preferred spot for criminals to dispose of bodies.

It’s not uncommon to find human remains in the river, which eventually mix with the Ganga after several kilometers. This walk is scheduled for later this month, and Nadia and I have decided to participate. I’ve heard that people drink water from the Varuna where it merges with the Ganga. Despite walking along the river, witnessing all the waste, both animal and human, and observing the immense sewage discharge, they still drink this water purely for religious reasons. I can’t fully imagine what we will encounter, but I’m excited for the experience.

Pittsburgh girl studies Hindi

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A girl named Abbie from Pittsburgh reached out to me through Couchsurfing, inquiring about Hindi classes in Varanasi. I recommended she contact Mr. Virendra Singh. Although she had previously written to Bhasha Bharti, she hadn’t received a response. I asked Mr. Singh if he had availability for another student, and fortunately, he had an hour free. At the time, Abbie was still in Bhopal, so I advised her to get in touch with me once she arrived in Varanasi. I also thought it would be beneficial for her to meet Udo, another Hindi student staying at my place.

Abbie called me on the 21st. I invited her to my home to introduce her to Udo, but he was out at the time. Instead, I took her to Mr. Singh’s place. After meeting him, Abbie decided she would like to continue her Hindi studies with him for the rest of her time in India. Although she had already studied Hindi for three months in Indore, she felt she hadn’t learned much because her teacher there was a mathematics teacher, not a qualified Hindi instructor.

After her initial lesson with Mr. Singh, Abbie traveled to Khajuraho but plans to return by next Monday. With three months left in India, she has ample time to learn basic Hindi. I hope she makes good progress with Mr. Singh. Although she had hoped to stay at my place, I was unable to host her as all my rooms were already booked. Instead, she is staying at Ganga Yogi Lodge near Sonarpura, which fits her budget.

Udo from Germany learns some Hindi

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I have been hosting a German student named Udo, who is 58 years old and eager to learn Hindi in Varanasi. Uncle Udo reached out to me about a month ago after finding my email address through my Hospitality Club profile. He used to be a professor of German and has worked at various universities in England, Germany, and Japan. Currently, he owns a language school in Munich but does not teach there. Instead, he assesses unemployed individuals for government assistance.

When I asked Uncle Udo why he wanted to learn Hindi at his age, he shared an interesting story. A few years ago, a friend had given him a Hindi grammar book as a birthday gift, which he had never looked at. While cleaning his cupboard a couple of years back, he rediscovered the book and decided it was time to learn Hindi. He believes that starting something new is a great way to keep the mind active in old age, and I found this idea quite inspiring. Uncle Udo had already been studying Hindi online for three years and was familiar with the sounds and grammar.

When Udo asked me about Hindi classes in Varanasi, I recommended Professor Virendra Singh. At that time, Mr. Singh was not in Varanasi but was expected to return by the first week of October. I advised Udo to continue researching alternative Hindi teachers in case Mr. Singh did not return on time. Udo mentioned Mr. Binit Mishra, whom he found online, and who was reportedly located near my home, though I had never heard of him.

Udo arrived at my home on October 6th. On his first day, we went to meet Virendra Singh, who had indeed returned to Varanasi and resumed teaching. Mr. Singh agreed to teach Udo for one hour each day, which delighted him. Given Udo’s background as a professor, he wanted a qualified instructor, which was why he had not considered other schools in Varanasi.

Since starting his lessons with Mr. Singh, Udo has been very pleased with the instruction he’s received. He regards Mr. Singh as the best Hindi professor he has ever met. Although his Hindi is not perfect, he has made significant progress and his proficiency is far beyond what most people achieve after just two weeks of classes. Udo plans to visit Khajuraho and Gwalior before leaving India in ten days. He hopes to return to Varanasi next year to continue his Hindi studies and to experience festivals like Shivratri and Holi.

Gwalior for tour guide training

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On the 27th, I traveled to Gwalior for counseling regarding the tour guide training program. My train was delayed by two hours, so I arrived at 10:30 AM, giving me nearly four hours before the counseling session was scheduled to start at 3 PM. I had heard a lot about the Gwalior Fort, so I decided to explore it. I took an auto rickshaw to the fort and reached by 11:00 AM. Gwalior Fort is massive and unlike any fort I’ve seen before. Perched 300 feet atop a hill, it features a nearly 2-kilometer-long inclined road leading to its entrance.

Within the fort, I visited the Mansingh Palace, the Sas-Bahu Temple, the Sikh Gurudwara, and the Teli Temple. Despite having three hours to explore, I quickly realized that the fort was far too vast to see everything in that time. I tried to find a guidebook or some information about the fort, but there were no tourist resources available. The ticket counter at the entrance listed a ticket price of twenty paise, a denomination that hasn’t been used for years, suggesting that updates were long overdue. The only refreshment option was a single coffee shop.

I had hoped to catch the evening sound and light show but didn’t have enough time. I particularly enjoyed the Sas-Bahu Temple, which was adorned with intricate carvings that are around 500 years old. While at the fort, a group of young Sikh men approached me for a photo. Afterward, one of the youngest, who looked about thirteen or fourteen, advised me to wake up early. I was taken aback as he seemed to know about my nocturnal habits. He then began to ask for money, starting at fifty rupees and eventually reducing his demand to just two rupees, but I didn’t give him any.

Following the Sas-Bahu Temple, I visited the Man Singh Palace, built by Raja Man Singh Tomar in 1508. The palace was later captured by the Mughals and used as a special jail for important prisoners. It was the only palace I’d seen with colorful tiles on its walls, adding to its unique beauty. I was approached by several people offering to guide me, but with only thirty minutes left, I decided against it. In retrospect, a guide might have been helpful as the palace was quite complex, reminiscent of Lucknow’s Bada Imambada.

I then proceeded to the counseling center, where I was surprised to see many attendees over the age of thirty-five, some even over fifty. Initially, I thought they might be parents of the students, but they were actually individuals who had passed the exam. It seems these experienced guides were seeking licenses to formalize their status, as they frequently face challenges from government guides and ASI officers. The institute was impressive, featuring a computer lab, library, auditorium, and well-maintained grounds, all air-conditioned. The counseling was divided into two parts: document verification and registration.

I first had to get my documents verified in a separate room where three employees checked my certificates and their attested copies. After this, I filled out a form with details like my name, roll number, marks, batch preferences, and center. I had hoped to join the New Delhi center for the second batch, but it was fully booked, so I was assigned to the Gwalior center instead. The training fee was Rs. 2000, covering the library, computer lab, and teaching costs. The training will start on January 5th and last for 45 days, followed by a week-long tour.

Afterward, I’ll be assigned a city or tourist region to research and write a report on, which must be completed within ten weeks. An exam and interview will follow, and upon passing, a tour guide license will be issued. By 5 PM, with my train back to Benares at 8:40 PM, I left the institute and walked to the railway station, which was about 5 kilometers away. Walking allowed me to see more of Gwalior, a city that, while smaller than Benares, appeared more organized with better traffic, housing, and greenery. On the train, I met a fellow Benares resident who had also qualified for the exam.

He had been working with Japanese tourists but was unhappy due to their perceived lack of generosity. Now that he would have a license, he planned to work with tourists from wealthier countries like the US or Britain. He mentioned that many Japanese-speaking guides in Delhi can’t read or write Japanese, having learned the language through conversation. However, future exams will be conducted in various languages, which might address this issue. Overall, the trip to Gwalior was short but productive. I completed the counseling process, explored the fort, and had a pleasant walk around the city. I’m looking forward to my training period in Gwalior.