Mumbai Gay Pride 2011

Posted on February 10, 2011 by nandan

Mumbai – The Place of the Most Happening Gay Events in India

Mumbai, known for hosting some of the most happening gay events in India, held its annual pride march on the 29th of January, and I went to attend it. The parade was organized by the Humsafar Trust, the biggest organization working on LGBT rights in Maharashtra. In earlier years, the pride march was held on the 16th of August, but this year the date was changed because of the hot and humid weather conditions in Mumbai during that month. The earlier date carried symbolic value as it came right after Independence Day. The idea was that although India got its independence on the 15th of August 1947, the gay community in India had yet to achieve its own independence, so pride was celebrated the very next day.

the parade

Celina Jaitely at the Parade

I had already attended the Mumbai pride parade in 2009, so I felt it was a good decision to change the date this year. The parade began at Azad Maidan, the same starting point as last year, and ended at Girgaum Chowpatty, a walk of around 5–6 kilometers. By the time I arrived at Azad Maidan, a few hundred people had already gathered and speeches were going on. Soon after, Bollywood actress Celina Jaitely arrived, which brought extra energy to the participants.

Celina has always supported LGBT issues and has been associated with many NGOs working in this field. She once even admitted that her ex-boyfriend was homosexual. She is one of the most recognized celebrities standing up for LGBT rights in India, and I have seen her in several interviews talking about equal rights. I had also seen her in the 2009 parade. It is always inspiring when celebrities join such events and support the cause.

Celina Jaitely at the parade

Azaad Bazaar

After speeches from Celina and other activists, the parade finally started. One new thing this year was that Humsafar Trust had opened India’s first LGBT-friendly store in Mumbai called Azaad Bazaar, meaning “Independent Market” in Hindi. They promoted it during the parade. I really liked the idea of having a dedicated place for the LGBT community. In India, LGBT people face huge discrimination and are often mocked. They don’t always feel comfortable in public spaces. Stores like Azaad Bazaar can give them a place to shop freely and meet others. In fact, such places are not only useful but also create visibility and conversation in society. I strongly believe that open communication can solve a lot of problems, and initiatives like this encourage exactly that.

Happy Ending of the Parade

The Parade

The parade began with around 1500 people, but soon the number grew to between 2500 and 3000. The streets were filled with participants dancing, cheering, and celebrating. There were people from different parts of India and even foreign countries. This year’s pride was a beautiful mix of modern and traditional culture. While some participants were dressed in very modern outfits, others wore traditional clothing, performed folk dances, and sang traditional songs. I had once asked an officer at Humsafar Trust why so many people dressed traditionally, and he explained that it was intentional.

society

They wanted Mumbai pride not to become completely Western, and it’s always easier for society to accept change when it is rooted in local culture. Since India has one of the oldest histories of same-sex love in the world, blending tradition with pride makes perfect sense. I loved this idea. I also noticed fewer people wearing masks this year, which clearly showed that the LGBT community in Mumbai is becoming more open and confident in fighting for their rights.

rainbow flag at the parade

Laxmi Narayan Tripathi and Manvendra Singh Gohil

The famous Hijra activist Laxmi Narayan Tripathi also joined the parade. I have met and interviewed her before and truly admire her work. I believe she is one of the most well-known Hijra activists not just in India but globally. Another familiar face I noticed was Manvendra Singh Gohil, who belongs to a royal family in Gujarat and is one of the very few openly gay royals in the world. I had seen him in the 2009 parade as well. After coming out, he faced tension within his family but chose to dedicate himself to LGBT activism, starting in Gujarat and later across India. He has even announced plans to adopt a child. Seeing someone from a royal family openly advocating for LGBT rights is powerful because royal families hold social influence, and their acceptance often inspires broader social acceptance.

Laxmi Narayan Tripathi

Support from Families

Another positive change I saw this year was family support. Some participants carried placards saying things like “I am proud of my gay son,” “Proud of my gay grandson,” or “Proud of my gay brother.” Although these families may be very few in number, the fact that more and more relatives are standing beside their loved ones is a clear sign of change.

The parade ended at Girgaum Chowpatty with speeches by social activists demanding equal rights, including the legalization of same-sex marriage. While consensual gay sex has already been decriminalized in India, marriage equality and other rights are still not recognized. Personally, I feel legal changes may take time, but social attitudes are even slower to change. I have not yet seen much difference in everyday conversations about the LGBT community among people in India.

family

Reflections

The good thing, however, is that people have started talking about it more openly. I see more openly gay couples in society now, which is a clear sign of progress. At the same time, I think members of the LGBT community also need to be mindful of social norms. For example, during the parade, I saw a couple of participants lowering their pants and exposing themselves. Some were kissing openly on the road. I personally don’t oppose kissing, but since public displays of affection are generally uncommon in India, doing so only makes acceptance harder. For the LGBT community to become a more accepted part of mainstream society, they also need to reflect mainstream behavior while pushing for change. After all, human feelings are the same, whether one is gay or straight, but respecting social context is important.

great

Closing Thoughts

Overall, attending the parade was a wonderful experience. I learned more about the community and saw both challenges and progress. I plan to attend the parade again next year, hopefully with a better camera so I can capture more videos and interviews.

Happy Ending of the Parade

Delhi Gay Pride 2010

Posted on November 30, 2010 by nandan

Delhi Pride

Delhi celebrated its Gay Pride Parade this year on the 28th of November, and I was excited to attend it again. Until last year, the parade used to be held in June, but this year the date was shifted because Delhi gets unbearably hot during the summer. Honestly, I think it was a very sensible decision. This year’s parade was especially important to me because it was the first big pride event in Delhi after the decriminalization of Section 377. I really wanted to witness how people would react. I went with my friend Babu, and later my friend Ravikant, who happened to be in Delhi for some personal work, also joined us.

Delhi pride

Participants

I have already attended several pride parades in India, so nothing really surprised me anymore, but Babu and Ravi were completely shocked. They had no idea what to expect. The parade started at Barakhambha Road and ended at Jantar Mantar, which was about two hours of walking. When I reached Barakhambha, there were already a few hundred people gathered. Many were getting dressed up, others were distributing masks, pamphlets, and candies. One thing I have always noticed about Delhi Pride is that it has a good number of Hijra participants.

support

Demands

The parade was much bigger than last year and far more diverse. There were families, Hijras, students, members of the LGBT community, and straight allies. The event began with music, dancing, and slogans, and soon hundreds more joined in. The police were present in large numbers to manage traffic and ensure safety. The parade lasted nearly three hours and felt like a mix of modernity and tradition. Some people wore traditional attire, while others were dressed in a very modern way. What really stood out was the overwhelming support from students and young people, which gave the whole event a very energetic and hopeful vibe.

demands

Love

When we reached Jantar Mantar, there were speeches by social workers, organizers, and participants. A large organization called NAPM also joined this year and openly declared their support for the LGBT community. Since NAPM works on several important issues across India, their involvement could really bring meaningful change in society. This was personally encouraging for me because I have been planning to organize a pride parade in Varanasi, and NAPM’s support would make a huge difference. I already know one of their state conveners in Uttar Pradesh, Nandlal Master, and it was inspiring to see the organization get involved.

participants

Support

Many of the speeches focused on discrimination faced by the LGBT community. Some participants even came on stage wearing masks, but once they felt the support of the crowd, they removed their masks and proudly revealed their identities. They said the parade gave them confidence to no longer hide their sexuality. It was a very emotional and powerful moment. The event concluded with a candlelight gathering, which gave the whole day a beautiful ending. Afterwards, people were talking about post-pride parties happening across the city. Because the number of participants was larger this year, several different parties were organized at multiple locations, some paid and some free.

family

Definitely

I asked around and got a few different addresses, which clearly showed how big the event had become. I went home, got ready, and later headed to a club near Qutub Minar for one of the parties. However, only those who had received an official SMS invitation were being allowed entry. I explained to the security guard that I had come from Varanasi and had already been in touch with the organizers, but they still refused. Eventually, I met one of the organizers outside the club who arranged for me to be taken inside. The rooftop party was lively, with music, drinks, and food, though extremely expensive. A small beer that usually costs Rs. 50 in the market was being sold for Rs. 600, and even the cheapest whiskey shots cost the same. Still, we managed to enjoy ourselves. My friends, especially Ravikant, were shocked but also fascinated by the whole experience.

definitely

Participants

Suddenly, the police showed up and ordered the DJ to stop the music. In India, loud music at public places is not allowed after 10 PM, and the police were not ready to compromise. The organizers tried to negotiate, but nothing worked. The party was shut down and we were asked to leave immediately.I was a bit disappointed because post-pride parties are usually very different from regular parties and I enjoy them a lot, but this time I could not. Still, I have no regrets. I was happy that I got to attend the parade, experience the energy, and learn from it. It was a meaningful and memorable day.

I hope to attend Delhi Pride again next year.

love

Kolkata Gay Pride 2010

Posted on July 10, 2010 by nandan

Beginning of the Parade

I had the opportunity to attend Kolkata Gay Pride on the 2nd of July. I arrived in Kolkata on the 1st, after attending Chennai Pride and spending a few days in Bangalore. My friend Sourendra from Mumbai introduced me to Mr. Rajshree Chakrobarty, Secretary of the Dum Dum Society and one of the organizers of Kolkata Pride. I knew that Kolkata was the first city in India to host a pride march, so I expected it to be the biggest one this year as well. But when I reached the parade venue, I was shocked to see that there were hardly 50 people present.

Begining of the parade

Mr. Chakrobarty Explains

Before I could even ask, Mr. Chakrobarty told me why the turnout was so low. He explained that most of the organizations working on gay rights in Kolkata had boycotted the parade due to internal politics. As a result, only the Dum Dum Society and another group called Anandam organized the event this year. I was surprised to hear this but also glad that at least someone took the initiative to keep the parade alive.

Mr. Chakrobarty

The Parade

The parade began at Jatin Das Park near Hazra Crossing and ended at the Academy of Fine Arts. It started with around 40–50 participants but was lively and full of energy. Having attended several pride parades in India over the past year, I found Kolkata’s to be the most liberal and open. Nobody wore masks to hide their identity. An auto rickshaw with loudspeakers led the march while participants sang songs about human rights, equality, and gender justice. They also distributed pamphlets about LGBT rights.

Good message

Growing Numbers

It rained for most of the march, but that didn’t stop people from joining. By the time we reached the Academy of Fine Arts, the crowd had grown to over 100 participants. The most inspiring moment for me was seeing so many young lesbian couples join towards the end. I had never seen so many lesbians at a pride event in India—not in Mumbai, Delhi, or Chennai. What struck me most was their age: they were very young, unlike the older women I had usually seen. These young women knew their families would find out if they marched publicly, but they still chose to participate. That level of openness and courage really impressed me.

Very colorful event

Speeches and Performances

At the Academy, the parade concluded with speeches by Mr. Ranjeet Sinha, Mr. Rajshree Chakrobarty, and other social activists. Later, I joined Mr. Chakrobarty for a cultural program organized by Saathi, which provided a platform for the LGBT community to showcase their talents. The program included dance performances, fashion shows featuring designs created by LGBT members, and traditional Kolkata songs. I was amazed by the quality of the performances. The municipality chairman attended as the chief guest, and the event drew a crowd of nearly 500 people—much larger than the parade itself.

Cultural dance performance

Learning from Kolkata

During my time there, I interviewed Mr. Chakrobarty, Mr. Ranjeet Sinha, and several others from the community. Mr. Chakrobarty told me that gay activism in Kolkata began as early as 1989, making it one of the first cities in India to do so. Today, there are about six or seven organizations working on LGBT rights in the city. He explained that conditions for LGBT people in the city are better than in suburban or rural areas, largely due to greater media presence and more active organizations. However, compared to Mumbai and Delhi, life in Kolkata is still more difficult, as it is the poorest metropolitan city in India.

the most important message

Discrimination and Social Challenges

Mr. Chakrobarty also pointed out that transgender people face the harshest discrimination because their identities are more visible. He emphasized that while all LGBT individuals face discrimination, trans people often bear the brunt of it. We also discussed the common misconception in India that homosexuality is a disease or a temporary fashion—something that can be “cured” by marriage or yoga, as suggested by figures like Baba Ramdev. Like others I have interviewed, he firmly said this is impossible: sexuality cannot be changed. Many gay men marry under family pressure but continue same-sex relationships, proving that marriage is not a solution.

She was very active

He also reminded me that homosexuality has always existed in Indian culture, citing references in Hindu scriptures, temple carvings, and even stories from the Ramayana. He noted that Section 377 was a colonial law imposed by the British, and that the Delhi High Court’s judgment to strike it down was a step toward justice.

Meeting Mr. Ranjeet Sinha

I also had the privilege of meeting Mr. Ranjeet Sinha, a transgender activist working in Kolkata and surrounding districts. He shared the struggles trans people face, including the lack of recognition in official documents like passports and voter IDs. He spoke about the humiliation trans people often face in public toilets and demanded separate facilities. He also told me about a transgender activist friend with AIDS who was forced by doctors to dress as a man before being admitted to the hospital. Mr. Sinha criticized NGOs for focusing solely on HIV/AIDS and neglecting broader issues affecting the transgender community. He praised South Indian states, especially Chennai, for making more progress on transgender rights.

Good slogan

Final Thoughts

Kolkata Pride may have been smaller this year, but it taught me so much. I was deeply inspired by the courage of the young participants, the dedication of people like Mr. Chakrobarty and Mr. Sinha, and the resilience of the community despite internal challenges. I sincerely hope that next year, all organizations will put aside their differences and come together to make Kolkata Pride as strong and vibrant as it deserves to be—a true celebration of equal rights for all.

He had a lot of fun

Chennai Gay Pride 2010

Posted on June 28, 2010 by nandan

Chennai Gay Pride – June 27

It was Chennai Gay Pride yesterday, on the 27th of June, and I went to attend the festival. The event wasn’t as large as I had expected, but it was still significant enough to attract attention from the local community and raise awareness about LGBTQ+ issues. I was expecting at least 1,000–2,000 participants, but the turnout was closer to 400–500. The parade began near the Labor Statue at Marina Beach at 5 PM and lasted for over an hour. It was organized with the support of several organizations working for LGBTQ+ rights in Chennai, with Shakti Center being one of the most prominent names involved.

Foreign participants

The Parade Atmosphere

The participants seemed genuinely happy and energetic, especially those from the LGBTQ+ community. Unlike the Delhi and Mumbai Pride parades, which had loud music and people dancing, Chennai Pride didn’t feature music. Still, participants sang songs in Tamil (which I couldn’t understand), laughed, danced, and hugged each other with joy. I noticed that there were fewer lesbian couples compared to Delhi and Mumbai, and overall the atmosphere felt a little less open. In Delhi and Mumbai, many participants walked hand in hand with their partners, making their relationships visible. In Chennai, however, most people seemed more reserved, perhaps reflecting the city’s more conservative, religious outlook.

People from the organizing committee

Conversations with Organizers

I spoke with one of the organizers who told me that last year’s parade had more people, but many were outside supporters. This year, though the crowd was smaller, more members of the community itself participated—which he considered an important step forward. Since the parade took place at Marina Beach, a popular weekend spot, thousands of locals watched. I handed out pamphlets and masks to curious onlookers. Interestingly, the use of masks was much higher here compared to Delhi and Mumbai. Some participants even wore two or three masks at once to completely cover their faces. When I asked them why, they explained that Chennai is still very conservative, and they didn’t want to risk being recognized.

There were families also

Attitudes and Challenges

Many participants expressed concern about how society perceives them. Some said, “If people see us in the parade, they’ll think we’re gay too.” This showed how stigma and fear of judgment still run deep here. I also spoke to Mr. Annirudhan Vasudevan, one of the parade organizers. He admitted that while the Delhi High Court’s decision to decriminalize same-sex relations had brought some change, it wasn’t enough to transform society. He said, “At least people are talking about it now. They know that something called the LGBTQ community exists and that we too have rights.”

I also think so

Annirudhan stressed that discrimination is widespread across India, and the community needs legal protection, medical care, and equal rights. He also highlighted the tragic case of Prof. Srinivas Siras from Aligarh Muslim University, who was suspended after being filmed in a private moment with a same-sex partner. The humiliation pushed him to take his own life, despite homosexuality being legal. This conversation made me realize how much more progress is needed—not just in laws, but in changing public attitudes.

Mr. Annirudh

The Pride Party

The night before the parade, there was a party at a four-star boutique hotel, Le Waterina, at Kotivakkam Beach. It was the most expensive Pride party I’d attended in India. Entry in Delhi was free, and in Mumbai it was ₹500 with reasonably priced drinks. In Chennai, the entry was ₹500, but drinks were very costly. At the party, I met locals who didn’t even know about the parade but had been invited to the event via SMS. Some hesitated to talk about the parade, reflecting again how cautious people are about revealing their identity. Still, I saw many of them at the parade the next day. One highlight of the party was a male go-go dancer—a first for me. Dressed in shorts and later removing his T-shirt, he performed for over an hour, and the crowd went wild. His presence added a new level of excitement to the celebration.

Go-Go dancer at teh party

Final Thoughts

Despite the challenges, I was glad to be part of Chennai Pride. The event showed both the struggles and the resilience of the community here. I hope that with time, Chennai Pride will grow larger, attract more supporters, and become more open—just like in Delhi and Mumbai. One thing is clear: LGBTQ+ rights will not advance without support from allies. It is our responsibility, as straight people, to stand with the community and help create a more equal world.

My friends and I

More Pics:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/wHjjzmTWsTcVn2xVA

Mumbai Gay Pride 2009

Posted on October 10, 2009 by nandan

I attended Mumbai Gay Pride on August 16th. This date was chosen because the organizers of the event, from the gay community, decided to celebrate their freedom one day after India’s Independence Day on August 15th. They felt that while India gained freedom on that day, the gay community had yet to achieve their own freedom. The event was organized by an NGO called Humsafar, which works with the gay community in Mumbai. I had already been in touch with Humsafar about my project, and they were very welcoming. Although I was in Gwalior for training, I took a 4-day leave and flew to Mumbai, arriving on the night of the 14th.

I had attended this year’s Delhi Pride on June 26th and missed having a video camera. This time, I arranged for one to record the Mumbai Gay Pride. I asked my friend Yogesh, who works in Bollywood, to help me get a camera, and he provided everything I needed. On the 16th, I went to Humsafar with a cameraman and a friend from the US named Ryan, whom I had invited to join me at Mumbai Pride. My goals were to cover the parade preparations, interview a few people at Humsafar and at the parade, participate in the event, enjoy the party, and make new contacts for future collaborations.

I was scheduled to start interviews at Humsafar at noon, but upon arrival, I found several media personnel already interviewing their team. However, they arranged for someone to show me around their office, which was impressive. They had an HIV and AIDS testing center, which I had not seen in other NGOs before. The Humsafar representative took me to the second floor where preparations for the next day’s parade were underway. About 20 people, including some hijras, were practicing dances. They had a drummer playing Punjabi dhol and a large sound system. I was surprised to see them practicing traditional hijra dance.

I spent some time observing the preparations; the enthusiasm and hard work of the performers were evident. The performers were either homosexuals or hijras who sought assistance from Humsafar. The office representative informed me that the CEO of Humsafar, Mr. Vivek Raj Anand, had just arrived and offered me the opportunity to interview him. I felt fortunate to have a 15-minute interview with him, during which he demonstrated his deep knowledge and commitment to the issues.

I believe the gay community has always existed in India, but many view it as a foreign concept. Therefore, when interviewing people about gay culture, I ask about its history in India and its presence in Hindu religious texts. I believe that understanding its historical and religious context can make it easier for people to accept and support it. My goal was to interview people and share these interviews online. I conducted the interviews in Hindi to ensure that people in India could understand them. During the interviews, one interviewee shared stories from the Ramayana and other Hindu texts that indicated the presence of gay culture even during Ram’s time.

He discussed the challenges he faced, societal discrimination, and his hopes for the future. It was enlightening to learn about the history of gay culture in India, especially within Hinduism. Mr. Anand expressed interest in having me work with the MSM (men who have sex with men) community in Benares. He offered to help with funding or projects through the UP government, which was something I was eager to pursue. However, he mentioned that Humsafar does not operate outside Mumbai and Thane districts. They could provide support such as funding or training but would not extend their work beyond these areas.

Since my NGO, Sanjeevani Booti, was not yet registered under section 12A, I would not be able to collaborate with him soon. However, Sanjeevani Booti has now completed its first year, so I can apply for this registration. Mr. Anand also mentioned his gratitude to Baba Ramdev on behalf of the gay community. Baba Ramdev challenged the Delhi High Court’s judgment on Section 377 in the Supreme Court of India. Mr. Anand believed the Supreme Court would soon rule in favor of the gay community, leading to equal rights. I share his appreciation for Baba Ramdev’s efforts.

I interviewed Mr. Anand, the manager of Humsafar, one bisexual individual, two hijras, and a few gay men. It was a valuable experience hearing their stories. Despite their different backgrounds, they faced similar issues, primarily discrimination. The Humsafar manager shared his struggle to obtain a passport with a gender marker reflecting his identity as a female or hijra. Government officials were unfamiliar with the concept of transgender identities, and he had sued the government over this issue. He is currently preparing for a gender change operation but faces obstacles due to the lack of a passport.

I also interviewed a Muslim gay man with two hijras. This was my first interview with a Muslim gay individual. He shared that his family would never accept his desire to marry a man, leaving him with the choice to either escape or remain unmarried. The hijras provided fascinating insights into their community, revealing that there are two types of hijras, each with different customs and levels of respect. I had always been confused about the distinction between “hijra” and “gay.” The hijras explained that educated people use the term “gay,” while uneducated people use “hijra.” They also discussed the challenges faced by the hijra community in India, which mirrored those faced by others I interviewed.

They mentioned the existence of two types of hijras: those who marry a hijra goddess and can live with their families, and those who bless and dance at weddings. One of the bisexual interviewees was a male sex worker. It was my first encounter with a male sex worker, and our conversation was eye-opening. He recounted his experiences and challenges, including an amusing story about mistakenly offering condoms to a policeman. The first day focused on observing preparations and conducting interviews at Humsafar. After finishing the interviews, we waited for an auto-rickshaw when I met Sourendra, a 25-26-year-old who was also gay and frequented Humsafar. We went to a litti-chokha (a famous Bihari food) party with my friend and interviewed Sourendra over dinner at 1 a.m.

I regretted bringing Sourendra to the party because his presence attracted unwanted attention from other guests. Despite the discomfort, Sourendra was open and energetic, discussing his experiences with discrimination and societal expectations. He shared an intriguing story about the existence of gays and hijras during Krishna’s time, which I had never heard before. After the parade, my friend Bijay took me to a renowned restaurant near August Kranti Marg. Following a few beers, we went to Bijay’s hotel and later to a party at a disco. The Mumbai party was distinct from the Delhi party, being organized by participants rather than the parade organizers.

Despite the Rs. 500 entry fee, the party was lively and had a larger turnout, including more lesbian couples. I drank too much and got drunk, witnessing many gay couples showing affection. The Mumbai Gay Pride seemed more organized compared to Delhi’s. There was a van with banners, posters, masks, and t-shirts, though the t-shirts sold out quickly. They also distributed bottled water and had volunteers collecting trash, making it a cleaner event. Many people watched the parade from their balconies, and some joined spontaneously. The Mumbai parade featured more transgenders and hijras than Delhi’s, with a group performing traditional hijra dance.

The parade ended at August Kranti Marg with speeches from social workers and NGO members about gay rights and future plans. I also interviewed a gay couple at the beach nearby. Regarding Section 377’s repeal, I found that everyone I spoke to was happy about it. A participant explained that such laws are crucial for societal change, and while Section 377 did not directly impact gay culture, it altered societal attitudes over time. With its repeal, there is hope for equal rights in the future, even if it may take decades. After the parade, Bijay and I went to a disco party. The Mumbai party, organized by participants, had a higher turnout and was different from Delhi’s.

Although I had to leave early for a 6 a.m. flight back to Bhopal, the party was memorable. Ryan helped me pack and get to the airport. Despite the craziness, I thoroughly enjoyed the trip, meeting new people, learning about their experiences, and establishing connections with Humsafar. They have invited me to the parade next year, and I plan to attend. My friend Sanjay, who initially thought my project was crazy, changed his perspective after hearing the interviews. He now supports equal rights for gays.

The stories I shared about gay culture in Hindu religion helped shift his view. I believe that if more people learn about the historical presence of gays in Hindu culture, acceptance will grow. The main issue behind discrimination against gays in India is a communication gap, especially regarding sex practices, compounded by the 150 years of Section 377. This law deeply affected societal attitudes, but historically, gay practices were part of Hindu culture. The British altered everything, and as we slowly address the issues they left behind, I hope we can also overcome this outdated system.

—

Project for the guide training program

Posted on October 1, 2009 by nandan

After completing the classroom teaching and orientation tour, I’m now set to begin fieldwork in my local town for the next two months. Initially, I was eager to explore LGBT tourism as my project because it’s a relatively untapped area in India and would allow me to connect my NGO work and research on the LGBT community with this project. However, I had to reconsider due to advice from friends and others who cautioned against it. They pointed out that a professor’s approval can often depend on personal preferences.

Given that LGBT tourism is a new and controversial concept in India and faces significant opposition, there was a risk that my professor might not support it. This seemed plausible given the widespread negativity toward the LGBT community in India. So, I decided to shift my focus to ecotourism. I initially planned to promote the rock paintings and waterfalls in Mirzapur district. My research showed that Mirzapur, with its untapped potential for ecotourism, had no existing tours being marketed. However, just two days before I was supposed to finalize my project with the institute, I read a news article about three foreigners being robbed at a well-known waterfall in Mirzapur.

Since some parts of Mirzapur are Naxalite-affected, this raised significant concerns about safety. Promoting a destination with such risks would be irresponsible. With my initial plan off the table, my only remaining option was to focus on Benares, which I had hoped to avoid. Previous projects on Benares have mainly covered heritage, culture, and mythology—topics I wasn’t particularly excited about. Tourists today are different from those of the past; they’re more interested in social issues, society, and politics rather than just history. Thus, I chose to focus on Benares with the topic “Benares: A Place for Everyone.” My professor approved of this subject, noting that it was unique and more engaging than a history-focused project.

My interest in this subject stems from Varanasi’s remarkable diversity. Although I’m not entirely sure if it’s the most diverse city in India, it certainly has a rich mix of cultures and religions. I plan to explore how Benares serves as a significant place for Hindus, Muslims, Buddhists, Jains, Sikhs, and Christians. Despite the small Christian population, there are several old churches that deserve attention. I also want to highlight how Benares, traditionally known as a city where Hindus come to die, has transformed into a vibrant hub for migrants seeking employment and a new life. This shift from a city of death to a city of life is a fascinating development that I want to investigate.

I have a lot of ideas for this project, but I’m unsure about the scope and how well I can incorporate my thoughts into the report. Nonetheless, I’m excited about the opportunity and looking forward to diving into this diverse and dynamic subject.

Guide training program – week 3

Posted on August 31, 2009 by nandan

Half of the training is now complete. I have three weeks of classroom instruction and one week of orientation tour remaining before I begin my fieldwork. I am very excited about this next phase. I’ve discussed my fieldwork topic, LGBT tourism, with other participants, and they’ve raised concerns that the institute may not approve it. This is troubling, but I’m determined to address it. I’m gathering basic information about LGBT tourism to present a strong case to my professor for approving my topic.

If my proposed subject isn’t approved, I’m considering focusing on either eco-tourism or rural tourism. I’m not interested in traditional Indian tourism subjects like heritage or culture, although I will need to learn about these topics and include information on the heritage and culture of Benares in my research. Specializing in LGBT tourism would be unique in India, and it would be a significant advantage if the institute accepts it. If LGBT tourism is not approved, I’d like to explore eco-tourism in Mirzapur district. Located just 75 km from Benares, Mirzapur is rich in natural beauty.

Our professors discussed the caves, cave temples, and rock paintings of Mirzapur, which I find fascinating. Despite its lack of promotion as a tourist destination, Mirzapur offers many opportunities with its waterfalls, dams, rivers, lakes, and hills. I’m considering starting trekking and camping tours there. Even if my LGBT tourism subject is approved, I would still promote and work in Mirzapur. Its rural setting offers great potential for rural tourism as well. I’m very enthusiastic about this project.

This week featured some engaging lectures. One guest speaker, Mr. Pandya, a tour guide who won the Best Tour Guide Award in 2008, shared his experiences. He is reportedly the highest-paid tour guide in India. Unlike most tour guides who stay in budget hotels while their clients enjoy luxury accommodations, Mr. Pandya stays in the same five-star hotels as his clients. His high rates and personal rules mean he only takes on five or six assignments a year. He charges $100 per day, which doesn’t seem excessive to me, as I sometimes earn that much working as a translator.

He also emphasized the importance of improving our accents, noting that while Indians have their own English, we should aim to speak the version used by tourists. I also learned a new term this week: “Chabbi,” which means commission in the tourism sector. A Muslim professor, an expert on tourism in Jammu & Kashmir, discussed how he initially avoided taking commissions from shopkeepers due to religious reasons but has since accepted it as part of the global tourism system. He mentioned that in some countries, it’s referred to as profit-sharing, which can be a more acceptable term for Muslims. He also noted that if he doesn’t bring clients to travel agency stores, he risks losing his job.

We had other fascinating lectures this week on topics such as tourism offices in India and abroad, Islam, female foreign tourists in India, the condition of women in medieval Indian history, eco-tourism, water tourism, adventure tourism, India’s architectural heritage, the Kamasutra, and Khajuraho sculptures. I asked the professor discussing the Kamasutra whether it addresses homosexuality, and he mentioned that homosexuality has been present for a long time, even noting that Babar had male partners. He also remarked that Afghanistan currently has a strong gay culture. Additionally, during a lecture on Islam by a professor from Jamia Millia Islamia University, a participant inquired about the condition of women in Islam.

The professor responded that the condition of women is poor across all religions. When another participant pointed out the relatively liberal treatment of women in Hindu society, the professor simply smiled and referenced the Agni Pariksha of Sita, then left the classroom abruptly. Overall, I’m thoroughly enjoying the program and looking forward to the remaining four weeks of training.

Delhi Gay Pride 2009 – afterparty

Posted on July 4, 2009 by nandan

Megan and Adam were running late, so I told them to head off while I stayed behind for the party. I wandered around and eventually stopped at a bus stop, where I sat for a while. Two people, who seemed to be from rural areas, came and sat next to me. It appeared that they had also witnessed the parade and were discussing it. One of them was visibly angry about the parade. He was cursing the government and the event organizers, expressing his frustration that people were openly mocking Indian culture and that the government was allowing it.

His remarks suggested he hadn’t explored the historical and cultural aspects of Indian traditions. For instance, the *Ramayana* includes references to hijras with practices similar to those of modern gays, the *Kamasutra* discusses homosexuality, and the temples at Khajuraho feature numerous sculptures depicting same-sex relations. It seemed clear that his views were influenced by a limited understanding of Indian cultural and historical context. I haven’t visited Khajuraho, but I have read the Ramayana and looked at the Kamasutra. From these sources, it seems that India has a very old gay culture, which was accepted in society but became criminalized by the British.

After spending an hour wandering around, I returned to the place where the bus was supposed to start from. There, I met a 20-year-old student from Delhi University. I was sitting near the bus when he came over and sat next to me. He said that attending the parade had made him feel more confident and open. He mentioned that he had been shy before the parade, but the experience had helped him overcome his shyness and embrace his identity with greater assurance. He wanted to talk to me about a problem he was having with his boyfriend.

He said that his boyfriend had stopped communicating with him and had slapped him a few months ago in front of his friends. He was very upset about this and sought my advice. Despite the situation, he mentioned that his boyfriend used to love him a lot, and he found it hard to believe that they could ever break up. He was deeply in love with him. I advised him to wait a while, keep trying to contact his boyfriend, and see how things developed. He seemed quite relieved and happy to hear that he should make an effort to stay in touch.

I asked him if he had told his parents about his boyfriend, and he said no, because he was afraid they would be angry if they found out. I then asked if he would like to marry his boyfriend, and he said that’s what he wanted. When I inquired whether he thought his parents would ever accept him marrying a man, he was silent for a moment and then said no. I also asked if his friends knew about his boyfriend, and he said they did, but only a few were supportive. Most of his friends just made fun of him.

He sought my advice on how to dress to look attractive at the party. He had an extra sleeveless t-shirt that he had bought specifically for the occasion, and he also had a piece of cloth that he wanted to wrap around his waist to enhance his look. Although I’m not a fashion expert, I did my best to help him look his best. As I spoke with him, I wondered what might happen if he were forced into a marriage with a woman. He had no need to marry someone of the opposite sex, and it would be detrimental for both him and his potential bride. Many homosexual individuals in India are coerced into such marriages, which seems like a grave injustice to me.

I also noticed something interesting: many homosexual individuals were calling each other by feminine or humorous names, such as using the word “randi” (slut). I didn’t quite understand why they did this. While hijras often adopt feminine names, homosexuals usually don’t, but it seemed that they enjoyed using these names among themselves. Additionally, I found it notable that homosexuals were making fun of hijras. On the bus ride to the party, there were quite a few hijras on board as well.

Hijras are known for their distinctive clapping and hijra songs. All the hijras on the bus were singing their songs and clapping in their traditional style. However, a group of homosexual individuals being interviewed on the bus continuously mocked the hijras. They would say things like, “Oh my God! Where did these hijras come from, these randis…” At one point, a guy even stood up and loudly asked if anyone had a one-rupee coin to give to the “randi hijras,” so they would stop clapping and singing. Although there was no malice intended, it was clear that they were making fun of the hijras. Despite this, everyone seemed to be in good spirits, and it was a fun ride overall.

I really enjoyed that bus ride and will never forget it. The atmosphere was vibrant—people were laughing, singing, hugging each other, and playfully teasing one another. It was so much fun. Eventually, the bus stopped, and we arrived at M Lounge Bar in Sector 15, Noida. I had expected it to be a place with just some food, drinks, and conversation, but it turned out to be much more than I imagined. In fact, it was a disco. As soon as I stepped in, everything I saw was completely new to me, as I had never been to a disco before.

People were dancing, drinking, hugging, and kissing—I had never seen anything like it before. There was a bar in the disco, and I decided to have a drink, but I didn’t realize how expensive everything would be. While entrance was free for parade participants, the drinks, food, and cigarettes were quite costly. I had a shot of whiskey and a bottle of beer, but I still wanted more because the atmosphere was so thrilling. I was having a fantastic time. Finally, I had to leave the disco to buy some alcohol from a shop. Before I did, I ran into the organizer, Mr. Amit Agrawal, and chatted with him for a while.

He was too drunk to have a meaningful conversation, so he directed me to speak with one of the other organizers, a 25-year-old student. He mentioned that he was also gay. When I asked if he had informed his family, he said, “No.” I inquired whether he thought his parents would approve of him marrying his boyfriend, and he said he wasn’t sure. However, he was certain that he wouldn’t want to marry a girl. He mentioned that they had organized the parade without any financial assistance from NGOs, institutions, or charities. The entire event was funded by a group of gays, who had contributed their own money to make it happen.

He was quite intoxicated and gave me his mobile number, asking me to call him the next day for further discussion. After our conversation, I returned to the disco, where the party was in full swing. Everything I saw there was entirely new to me. I saw many gay couples kissing, hugging, and dancing together. One couple, with a 60+ year-old man and a 20-year-old, stood out—they had the longest kiss I’ve ever seen, lasting for about two hours. There were also hijras with their partners, and I observed them kissing as well. Additionally, a few lesbian couples were present.

It was clear that the regular patrons of the disco were taken aback; they would sit in a corner, watching the scene with shocked and curious expressions. It was evident they had never witnessed anything like this before. I don’t think any of the regular patrons danced that night; they were simply observing what was happening. It was such a fun experience. At first, it felt a bit strange and I was shocked, much like the other regulars, but after a few minutes, everything seemed normal. I felt like everyone was just enjoying themselves, and the most important thing was that they were happy. The sense of freedom and joy was palpable, and it was truly awesome to witness.

It was amusing when one of the guys came up to me, started dancing, and touched my butt. I wasn’t sure how to react at first, but after a few seconds, he left me and joined someone else. I appreciated how he respected my feelings, and I think we should extend the same respect to others. None of the LGBTQ+ individuals made fun of me, insulted me, or tried to disturb me because I was straight. I don’t understand why straight people often make fun of or insult LGBTQ+ individuals. Why can’t straight people respect gay people’s feelings in the same way they expect their own feelings to be respected?

Now that the party was over, I headed back home. I really enjoyed the party—it was an incredibly fun night. Participating in and supporting the parade, along with the exciting party, felt like one of the best things I had ever done for myself. I was scheduled to talk with two members of the organizing committee the next morning, and I was looking forward to it. However, when I called them, both said they had drunk too much the previous night and just wanted to sleep. As a result, I couldn’t speak with them. I will try to talk with them the next time I visit Delhi.

Mr. Amit had asked me to help organize a Gay Pride Parade in Benares as well, but I’m unsure if the city is ready for such an event. Overall, my experience was fantastic, and I genuinely enjoyed participating in the parade. I witnessed the struggles faced by the gay community in India, listened to their concerns, and spoke with many of them. Ultimately, I believe that they deserve equal rights—equal rights in all aspects of life and social acceptance. Although I don’t know how long it will take for them to achieve equal rights in India, it is clear that gaining social acceptance will be a long and challenging process.

The gay community exists everywhere in the world, though it may be hidden in some places due to social pressure and more visible in others due to increased awareness, education, and liberalization. I recently read a newspaper article about an NGO working with the gay community in Varanasi. The article mentioned that the NGO was assisting 1,500 gay individuals in the city. However, I believe this number is an underestimate. The actual number is likely much higher, as many gay people choose not to make their relationships public due to societal non-acceptance.

Gay culture is private, and it’s unreasonable to assume we should know or judge what happens behind closed doors. Such thoughts are misguided. Outside of private spaces, everyone—whether homosexual or straight—engages in similar activities. When a person is born in India, they are entitled to basic human rights, including freedom of speech, freedom of thought, and equal rights. Gay culture represents a different perspective, nothing more, and everyone has the right to their own beliefs and ways of living.

Some people prefer relationships with the opposite sex, while others are attracted to the same sex. Just as those who are attracted to the opposite sex deserve to pursue their relationships freely, so too should those who are attracted to the same sex. If we advocate for equal rights, then gay individuals should be afforded the same rights as everyone else on this planet. Imagine being forcibly married to someone of the same sex; it would be an incredibly difficult situation if you were not inclined toward that relationship. The same consideration should be applied to everyone who views homosexuality as abnormal. It’s worth reflecting on.

Delhi Gay Pride 2009 – parade

Posted on July 4, 2009 by nandan

I attended the Delhi Gay Pride on the 26th and was thrilled to experience it firsthand. Having heard so much about the vibrant and festive nature of gay pride festivals, I was eager to see it for myself. I arrived in Delhi on the 24th, and Adam and Megan joined me for the parade. Although they had initially planned to go to Benares, they changed their flights to come to Delhi and be part of the event with me.

They had arranged for band performances to provide music. When I arrived, around two thousand people were already present. I asked the organizer about the expected turnout, and he mentioned that while last year they had anticipated about 500 attendees, they ended up with around 1500. This year, they were hoping for about 2500 participants. He also noted that media support had been strong the previous year and was expected to be similar this year. Indeed, there were numerous media representatives covering the event. The police were also present, though it was unclear whether their assistance was a formal obligation or a voluntary act of support, but they were definitely helping.

I spent my time wandering around and observing the festivities. Initially, I had planned to speak with the participants, but once I arrived and saw how joyful and immersed they were in the celebration, I decided against interrupting them. What struck me the most was that the parade included not just gay individuals, but also many straight people and families. There were numerous foreigners as well. I spoke with a few of them about their reasons for attending, and they all gave similar responses—primarily, they were there to support the cause.

The organizing committee had provided masks for those who wished to conceal their identities, and many participants, including straight people and families, chose to use them. While I understand that gay culture is still not fully accepted in India, which might explain why some in the LGBTQ+ community wore masks, I was puzzled by the presence of masks among straight participants. If they were so reluctant to be seen, I questioned why they were participating at all. I believe that it’s important for everyone to step forward and openly support the cause; only through such visibility and advocacy can the gay community in India achieve the recognition and acceptance it deserves.

I overheard some LGBTQ+ individuals speaking with the media. When asked about their experiences, they all shared similar sentiments: they feel ridiculed and believe they lack equal rights. As the parade began, the atmosphere was charged with energy, joy, and happiness. The band had started playing, and everyone was in high spirits. Many people danced with their partners, while others danced alone, waving the rainbow flag high. The parade was scheduled to start at 5 PM, but as with many things in India, it was delayed. This was the first time I didn’t mind the delay.

Finally, around 5:45 PM, the parade began. The vibrant energy, joy, and happiness I witnessed were only matched by a previous experience I had in Mehndiganj in 2007 during a rally against Coca-Cola. There was loud music, people jumping, shouting, dancing, and laughing—it was exhilarating. The atmosphere and the people filled me with an incredible sense of energy. A massive rainbow flag, carried by nearly twenty people, was a highlight of the parade. They jumped and danced with it, creating a stunning visual effect. The music was vibrant, and the whole scene was absolutely exhilarating.

The participants of the parade were very modern and liberal in their attire. Many had customized masks, caps, hats, and outfits. I saw several girls dressed in just shorts and bras, adorned with tattoos—something quite uncommon in India. The hijras also attended, dressed in a way that was noticeably different from their usual attire. As the parade began to move, more and more people joined in. A large number of students arrived, and by this point, the crowd had swelled to around 3,000 participants. Many onlookers stood along both sides of the road, watching the parade with interest.

I noticed people emerging from restaurants and shops, eagerly joining the festivities. The participants carried a variety of banners, posters, and flyers, each with different slogans emblazoned on their clothing and bodies. Many participants had their faces painted in vibrant rainbow colors. I had brought around 100 HIV & AIDS educational pamphlets to distribute among the crowd, and Adam and Megan kindly helped me with this task. We handed out the pamphlets quickly, but I noticed an interesting pattern: while some people were hesitant to take a pamphlet, others were very eager. A few individuals even approached us specifically asking for one.

One elderly man took a pamphlet and returned to Adam, expressing a desire to discuss the material inside. Adam asked the elderly man to speak with me, and he approached me with a question. He asked if I worked in HIV & AIDS, to which I confirmed. He then inquired if I supported the gay community and gay rights, and I affirmed that I did. However, he raised a surprising point. He questioned how I could support gay rights while working on HIV & AIDS, asserting that gays are responsible for the spread of HIV worldwide. His tone was somewhat agitated, and while I wanted to engage in a discussion about his perspective, the parade was moving, so I handed him my business card and suggested we continue the conversation at a later time.

He never reached out to me again, but it was disheartening to hear him blame the gay community for the spread of HIV & AIDS. While it’s true that gay men are at a higher risk of contracting HIV compared to heterosexual individuals, that doesn’t mean they are solely responsible for its spread. Many argue that gay people often practice safer sex compared to straights. I believe that the Indian government’s handling of HIV & AIDS programs and the corruption within the public health sector play a larger role in the spread of the disease, rather than the gay community itself.

I also spoke with a gay man who was interviewed by a journalist. He mentioned that he had been in a gay relationship for the past five years and was proud of it. He pointed out that gay individuals are often more knowledgeable about safe sex and STDs than heterosexuals, highlighting that education and awareness are crucial in managing health risks. The journalist asked him if he had informed his family about his sexuality, and he shared that while his father was aware, his mother sometimes referred to him as part of the hijra community. It’s clear that many people still confuse gays with hijras, not understanding the differences between them.

When the parade reached Jantar Mantar, it came to a stop for a series of speeches by social activists, gay rights supporters, NGO representatives, and a few participants. Some of those who had been wearing masks during the parade removed them when they took the stage. It was striking to see the shift in their demeanor—from being shy earlier to confidently expressing themselves in front of the crowd. The change in their confidence was palpable and marked a powerful moment of visibility and solidarity. The speakers declared loudly that they were no longer shy and were proud to be gay.

The speeches covered various topics, including Section 377 and other LGBTQ+ rights issues. As a symbolic gesture, the organizer invited everyone to light a candle. I joined in and lit a candle myself. With the parade concluded, the focus shifted to the party, which was set to begin at 9:30 PM at M Lounge bar in Sector 15, Noida. It was around 7 o’clock, and the organizers asked participants to regroup at 8:30. They had arranged several buses to transport everyone to the party venue. I was eagerly looking forward to the celebration.