Conference on Water Rights, Mehdiganj, Varanasi

A conference on water rights was held in Mehndiganj from March 28th to 30th, 2008. I was invited by Nandlal to attend, and I was thrilled to learn that Sandeep Pandey and Medha Patekar would also be speaking. Nandlal Master also mentioned that a girl from the U.S. wanted to attend the conference and interview local villagers about their issues with Coke. She needed a translator, which made me even more excited because it meant I had the chance to work with her! I arranged to meet her at Assi Ghat, where we had an extensive discussion about the Coke issue in Mehndiganj.

After our conversation, I invited her to my home, where I showed her various documents related to the Coke controversies in Mehndiganj, Plachimada, and Kaladera. Impressed by my knowledge and assistance, she offered me a job as her translator. She was a PhD student in history at a prominent university in the U.S., though she requested that I not mention the name of her institution. She was friendly, well-educated, and deeply interested in the history of Coca-Cola in India. She was staying at a BHU hostel arranged by her university, but she found it inconvenient due to the lack of internet access in her room.

She had to walk 10-15 minutes each time she needed to use the internet. When she saw that my guest house had internet in all the rooms and a biologist staying in the next room—whose expertise could be useful for her research on groundwater depletion—she decided to move to my place. During the conference in Mehndiganj, I assisted her with translation as we interviewed numerous people, including social workers from Kaladera. I’ve chosen not to mention her name in this post as she experienced sexual harassment during her work and preferred to remain anonymous. If you want to learn more about her experience, please refer to the linked post.

Pollution in Ganga

I started writing this post after hearing a news report on India TV news channel about the alarming prediction that the Ganga could dry up within the next 30 years. It leaves me wondering what is happening to us as a nation. Are we simply waiting for this vital river to become a relic of the past? The Ganga holds immense sacred significance for Hindus and world in general. Only someone deeply devoted to this river can truly understand its spiritual importance, and even then, words may fall short. Every day, more than 50,000 people bathe in the Ganga in Varanasi.

Pilgrims from all over India come to Varanasi to take a sacred dip. Yet, the water that was once revered for its purity is now severely polluted. While the Ganga remains sacred in a spiritual sense, the quality of its water has deteriorated significantly. My own mother, a deeply religious woman, has stopped bathing in the river. She still visits the Ganga and touches its waters, but she no longer drinks it. Hindus traditionally use Ganga water to bathe their deities, believing it to be the purest water on earth, but my mother has even stopped bringing Ganga water to our home temple.

When I discuss this issue with others, the common response is that the government and certain NGOs, tasked with water purification programs, are to blame for the Ganga’s current state. I frequently walk along the ghats of Varanasi and watch people bathing in the river. While I have also bathed in the Ganga, I can no longer bring myself to do so. The water is now murky and black. As a tour guide, I often take foreigners on boat rides. At Shivala Ghat, one can observe a small sewage discharge, with the water near it thick and foamy.

Shivala Ghat is not the only location where sewage mixes with the river. There are more than seven major discharge points and countless smaller ones. We have the resources and technology to clean this river—not only the Ganga but all our rivers. We are investing heavily in projects like the Commonwealth Games, infrastructure development, and special economic zones. We have modern subways and advanced facilities. Cleaning the Ganga should not be beyond our capability. Yet, it seems we are falling short. I am left questioning what our government is doing and why this critical issue remains unresolved.