It was the last day of the conference (30/03/2008) and also a day of protest in Mehndiganj, and we aimed to cover it comprehensively. As we approached the conference venue, I noticed more than ten police officers stationed there. Recalling the 2006 protest videos where the police had harshly beaten protesters, I felt a bit apprehensive. However, I knew that with everything being covered on camera, the police were unlikely to repeat such actions, as they would be held accountable in court.

We were particularly interested in interviewing out-of-town participants. Amanda was keen on speaking with activists from Kaladera, Rajasthan, where another Coca-Cola plant has created similar problems as in Mehndiganj. We interviewed Mr. Kudi ji, a prominent activist leading the movement against Coca-Cola in Kaladera. He was a genuinely kind and honest individual. Mr. Kudi ji described the issues in Kaladera, explaining that the water quality, once excellent, had deteriorated significantly since Coca-Cola’s arrival. The water now had a sour taste and a foul smell.

He mentioned that the Tata Energy Research Institute (TERI) had also advised Coca-Cola to leave Kaladera. Accompanying Mr. Kudi ji were two other activists dressed in traditional Rajasthani turbans. I had heard a lot about the impressive length of Rajasthani turbans and was eager to see one for myself. I had heard they could be as long as 15 meters, so I asked them to show us their turbans. To my amazement, the turban of one of the activists measured 11 meters long. Both Amanda and I were astonished by the length.

After finishing our interview with Mr. Kudi ji, we spoke with a representative from a laboratory in Chandauli district. This lab had conducted research on Coca-Cola’s rainwater harvesting sites. The representative reported that several of these sites were not functioning properly, with many water filter systems being filled with bricks rather than the necessary components. He pointed out that Coca-Cola’s claims about balancing groundwater through rainwater harvesting seemed dubious, especially given the lack of rain in recent years. His perspective was that planting a significant number of trees might be a more effective way to address the rainfall deficit and improve water availability.

On the 29th, we arrived in Mehndiganj around noon, brimming with excitement for Medha Patkar’s visit. To my surprise, the Regional Pollution Control Officer was giving a speech when we got there. This was shocking because he was known to be an opponent of Lok Samiti. I had interviewed him several times with other researchers, and he had always been quite rude. I distinctly remember him once angrily telling me not to return to his office. Yet, here he was, delivering a speech in support of Lok Samiti, claiming, “I am here because I care about the environment, and I am thrilled to see others who share this concern.

Although I am usually very busy, I couldn’t resist coming when Nandlal invited me.” I was skeptical and believed his words were insincere. I asked Nandlal how he managed to get the officer to attend. Nandlal explained that he initially refused, but Nandlal threatened him with unspecified consequences if he didn’t show up. It was rather amusing. During this time, Medha Patkar arrived at the conference and took a seat next to me. Her attire was simple, yet dignified. The Regional Pollution Control Officer, eager to meet her, arranged through Nandlal to make his introduction.

Upon meeting Patkar, he touched her feet in a gesture of respect. Patkar inquired about the water and pollution conditions in Mehndiganj. The officer stated, “The water level in Mehndiganj is decreasing.” When Patkar asked why, he attributed it to “less rain.” Patkar then questioned whether Coca-Cola was contributing to the problem, to which the officer responded with a firm “NO.” Hearing this was quite amusing, as it was widely known that the lack of rain was a major issue, but Coca-Cola’s activities were also a significant factor. While rain was beyond control, Coca-Cola’s impact was not.

As Patkar spoke with him, other social activists joined in, questioning the officer about pollution levels. He was visibly sweating and appeared overwhelmed, like a goat surrounded by lions. The officer had brought some official documents, including a letter from Coca-Cola to the State Pollution Control Board in Lucknow, requesting the renewal of their waste disposal license. This letter was dated July of the previous year. The officer claimed that the government had not yet renewed the license. This revelation sparked outrage among the social activists, as Coca-Cola was not supposed to operate without a valid license.

Despite operating multiple times since July, Coca-Cola had not been penalized. The activists demanded a copy of the document, but the officer was reluctant to provide it. Nandlal managed to get a xerox copy while I also obtained copies of the documents. The officer extended an invitation to Nandlal and the social workers to his office in Varanasi for further discussion and promised to assist them as much as possible. However, I remained doubtful of his willingness to genuinely support their cause. After the officer left, we went for lunch. Post-lunch, it was Medha Patkar’s turn to speak. She was impressive—strong, pragmatic, and able to command attention.

Her speech was captivating, and she discussed the issues not only in Mehndiganj but also in other states. She criticized not just harmful companies but also government policies. She shared a concerning story from Chhattisgarh, where the state government had sold a section of a river to a private bottling company. The company had cordoned off the river with ropes and put up a sign declaring it their property, forbidding individuals from using the water without permission. This had created significant problems for the local population, and Patkar continued to fight against this issue.

The 29th was an extraordinary day in Mehndiganj. We witnessed Medha Patkar’s powerful address, saw the Regional Pollution Control Officer struggling under scrutiny, and Amanda had productive conversations with Sandeep Pandey, Medha Patkar, and Amit Srivastava. It was a memorable and impactful day.

On March 28th, Amanda and I headed to Mehndiganj. We arrived to find a bustling conference in full swing, with over 500 attendees present. The atmosphere was lively, with a musical group performing folk songs about the Coke issue. I had seen these performers before and always enjoyed their music, so despite the noise, I found the experience enjoyable. Lok Samiti was inaugurating a new pond in Mehndiganj, and most people were attending that event. We went to the inauguration site, which was about 2 kilometers away from the conference venue.

By the time we arrived, the inauguration was over, but we managed to catch the tail end of the celebrations. Nandlal Master, Sandeep Pandey, and other social workers were distributing sweets to the villagers. I missed the ceremony itself but took plenty of pictures. While there, I met Anurag, Sandeep Pandey’s cousin who was working with ASHA. He was enthusiastic and wanted to engage with everyone. I also met Mr. Rajiv from New Jersey, a friendly member of ASHA. Amanda wanted to conduct interviews, but due to the noisy environment, we decided to focus on recording the speeches for the day instead.

Lunch was provided by Lok Samiti, and we joined about a thousand other people for the meal. Amanda and Dave were both offered food repeatedly. Dave was thrilled with the Indian food and ate everything, while Amanda left some of her food, as was her habit. After lunch, we returned to the conference. It was Dave’s turn to speak, and Anurag translated his speech. Although the translation wasn’t perfect, it sufficed. Dave spoke about a river in the U.S. that had caught fire due to heavy pollution, which made me think about the future of the Ganga.

He highlighted the importance of wetlands and the need for government intervention in environmental issues. I agreed with his points and appreciated his thoughtful speech. Following Dave, many other social workers gave speeches. One speaker from South India, who initially claimed he couldn’t speak Hindi and would give his speech in English, surprised everyone. He began in English but soon switched to fluent Hindi. I wondered why he chose to speak English initially, given that the audience was predominantly local villagers who did not understand English. It seemed he might have been trying to reach out to the few foreigners present, which felt misplaced given the context.

Reflecting on my previous experience in Mehndiganj, I remembered a cultural program organized by Lok Samiti about seven months earlier. During that event, when a guest from London was introduced, the villagers showed limited understanding of international geography. Some villagers debated whether London was far from Lucknow or close to Delhi, revealing their limited exposure to global locations. This incident underscored the lack of broader knowledge among the villagers, highlighting that the South Indian speaker’s attempt to address foreigners instead of focusing on the local audience was misguided.

The day ended with another folk song performance, and by the end of March 28th, we wrapped up our activities and headed home. The conference had been a mix of engaging moments and moments of disconnect, but it was an experience full of insights into the local dynamics and challenges.